Long-term use of wood most often ends with the appearance of blue on it. Especially if the tree is not periodically covered with special protective compounds. In this case, in order to avoid decay of the tree, it is urgent to take measures to whiten it. We will consider further how to whiten a wooden blockhouse yourself.

The presence of fungi or algae on the surface of the tree leads to the fact that it becomes covered with a grayish bloom. These microorganisms develop very quickly, especially inside the bath, since it is there that conditions suitable for their reproduction are located: high humidity and heat... Therefore, in the presence of the slightest spots of blue on wooden frame in the bath, you need to take care of whitening.

After installing the log house, first of all, you should take care of preventive measures aimed at preventing the formation of mold on the surface of the tree. The main condition for its development is high humidity. Therefore, before installation, the tree is treated with special protective compounds that prevent moisture from entering it. In addition, the room should have a high-quality ventilation system, which allows you to get rid of excessive moisture at a time when the bath is not used for its intended purpose.

The outer part of the wood, which is outside, is also covered with special compounds, which must be periodically renewed. After all, it is affected by precipitation, abrupt changes temperature regime, moisture, wind, solar radiation.

Most often, the reason for the appearance of mold on wooden surfaces is the fact that after the first coating with protective compounds, they are removed over time, and the subsequent coating is not performed. In this case, mold appears on the surface of the tree, without removing it, the wood rots very quickly and becomes unusable.

Another condition for the development of fungus inside the house is the presence sunlight... If in the future the walls of the bath will be sheathed with panels or clapboard, then internal bleaching is not necessary. When covering wood with clear varnish, it is necessary to mandatory bleach it.

We propose to consider the option of whitening a bath using a product called BIOSCHIT. With its help it is possible to get rid of wood-dyeing fungi, various molds, gray wood. After applying the composition, the wood acquires its original shade, without destroying its structure. By using this composition almost all types of wood are whitened.

The duration of the drug is about ten years. The composition provides protection against the appearance of rot, fungus, insects, algae. After applying the drug to the surface of the tree, its structure remains unchanged, while the vapor permeability also remains at the same level.

There are drugs designed for internal and exterior decoration building. Most often, the composition has a concentrated form that can be changed in relation to the degree of damage to the tree.

Use a roller to apply the antiseptic to the surface. Pigment paint, a few hours after applying the composition, begins to fade. After the surface dries, salt may precipitate in crystalline form; use plain water to remove it.

If the work is carried out indoors, then make sure that it is well ventilated. The temperature for applying the composition outside should be from 0 to 20 degrees. For one square meter consumed from one hundred to two hundred grams of material. If the fungus has infected the tree more than three millimeters, then it is recommended to cover it in several layers.

A newer and stronger version of BioShield is a compound called BioShield2. With its help, it is possible to bleach almost any wood of the most neglected form of damage.

When applying the bleach to the surface, use a stiff brush or roller, use some force to apply the compound to the surface, rub it well. Thus, it will be possible to significantly increase the efficiency of removing the fungus.

Prevention of appearance on wood: bleaching of logs

In order for the log house to serve you as long as possible, you must adhere to certain recommendations not only for its operation, but also for the transportation of logs. Before transporting the logs to the construction site, it is necessary to cover them with protective compounds of weak action, such protection will be enough for them for a little more than a week.

To prevent or slow down the development of fungus on the logs, care should be taken proper storage lumber. Incorrectly stacked logs are a great place for fungus to grow. Therefore, at the place of installation of the log house, there must be stacks for ventilation. They must be installed on dry ground, in the shady part of the site. In addition, the presence of a special shed should protect the tree from moisture. Moreover, the presence additional ventilation between the logs required.

Since the main sources of the development of fungus and mold are light and moisture. By avoiding these two sources, it will be possible to preserve the timber in maximum integrity and safety.

How to whiten a log house inside: means for bleaching a log house

Almost all wood bleaches are based on the use of bleach or hydrogen peroxide. The use of this or that composition should be justified by the nature of the damage to the wood. The opinion that chlorine is a more dangerous substance for human health than hydrogen peroxide is erroneous. Both the one and the other composition is quite toxic. Therefore, the choice of wood preservative should be made solely on the basis of the effectiveness of the application.

These substances are highly efficient oxidizing agents and can penetrate deep into wood. With the help of these substances, it is possible to get rid of not only the fungus, but also of its spores. However, it is not always possible to remove all fungal spores, therefore, conditions for their development should also be prevented after processing the tree.

Among the main compositions used to bleach a log in a wooden frame, we highlight:

• bleach NeoMid - has a fairly effective whitening effect, has received the widest distribution and popularity due to good quality whitening;
• SENEZH bleach, neo - has a gentle effect on wood, effective - deeply whitens the wood surface;
• FROST - also has several formulations that provide both deep and gentle whitening.

The use of one or another composition can be both successful and not very good. Therefore, before choosing a means for bleaching wood, you should take into account all the individual characteristics of the wood for work. Before processing, the wood should not be covered with a film-forming composition, since in this case, the penetration of the composition into the wood will be difficult.

In addition, work efficiency also determines the climate and timing of the work. The effect of bleaching at low temperature and high humidity is lower than under optimal conditions of 18 degrees Celsius and 60% humidity.

It is preferable to sand the wood before applying the compound. In this case, it will be possible to get rid of 10-20% of the blue. Before starting treatment, determine the condition of the logs, if there are deep lesions on a wet log, it is necessary to increase the concentration of the composition without adding a lot of water to it.

If the wood for processing is dry, and the lesions are not deep and local, then observe the clear proportions indicated by the manufacturer. Using a higher concentrate will destroy the wood structure.

Do not pay attention to the low cost of the composition, buy protective equipment from trusted sellers who have certificates that confirm the quality of the product. Pay attention to the date of manufacture of the composition, the highest performance in compositions, from the date of manufacture of which more than one, two months have passed.

Therefore, when answering the question of how to whiten the blue of a log house, be guided first of all individual characteristics wood, the degree of its damage, moisture, etc.

How to whiten a log house at home: the order of work

After transporting the logs to the site, they are treated with protective compounds before being laid in the frame. In the presence of small localized lesions, it is sufficient to treat only these areas. After applying the bleach, the surface of the logs is treated with an antiseptic compound, do not forget to treat the ends and bowls.

Please note that the antiseptic must be of high quality and preferably deep penetration. Application of a film-forming composition after the bleach will lead to damage to the wood after a year of its operation. If the log has not been bleached before, then an antiseptic coating is not necessary.

Further, the log house is installed under the canopy until it dries completely. After the logs are dry, you should inspect them for blueness. Incorrect storage of logs or too much rainfall can be the reasons for the formation of fungus. For processing dark spots also use bleach. Next, the log is polished, with the help of which it is possible to get rid of mechanical damage to the wood.

After the first sanding, if there are dark spots on the surface of the wood, they are whitened. After the bleach is dry, final sanding of the wood with a fine abrasive should be done. Next, you should immediately cover the wood with an antiseptic composition, fire protection and finishing impregnation.

Answering the question of how to whiten a log house outside, first of all, unequivocally, it is necessary to choose products from one manufacturer. Only in this case, it will be possible to achieve the highest whitening efficiency. In addition, before using the composition, carefully study the instructions for its use, optimal conditions to apply the solution and strictly adhere to these recommendations.

Some sauna owners do not want to use protective compounds for wood because of their non-ecological compatibility. However, most chlorine-containing compounds evaporate rather quickly, and the harm from fungus for untreated wood is much higher than for treated wood.

When performing internal whitening of a log house, take care of the presence of drafts that will help get rid of the harmful components of the formulations. Perform work using a respirator. Since chlorine can burn the respiratory tract.

Before using the bath for its intended purpose, it is recommended to heat the stove several times with no load, for a more thorough cleaning of the wood from chlorine fumes.

In order to avoid the appearance of fungus on wooden surfaces, follow these recommendations:

• provide good waterproofing wooden surface, especially in areas of contact with the foundation and roof;
• equipping the roof, construct long overhangs that will provide reliable protection of the upper crowns from moisture;
• in rooms with high humidity, a ventilation system must be organized, as well as means for removing moisture.

How to whiten a log house at home

Before when it didn't exist special formulations for bleaching wood, for performing this process used improvised home remedies. The first is salt. With the help of salt, it was possible to slightly prevent the development of fungus on the surface of the tree. However, it was not possible to bleach wood using this method.

The second composition for bleaching wood is whiteness. With this detergent, it was possible to make an excellent bleach for wood. It is effective if the tree is damaged from the outside. In order to whiten the inside of the tree, you need to loosen it a little, and then cover it abundantly with whiteness, rubbing it well into the inside of the tree.

It is more effective to use special concentrated bleaches. In this case, you will be able to save time and get a high-quality result. Besides, modern formulations are able not only to whiten wood, but also to preserve its natural structure and color.

Another quite effective way of wood bleaching is its polishing. With the help of this process, it is possible to get rid of a large number blue outside the tree. After sanding, if there are dark spots, they are covered with a clarifier.

In the process of using factory formulations, take care of your safety. Use a respirator and goggles to avoid chemical burns. Hide these compounds from children and pets. Also, use gloves while applying the composition. The main rule of quality whitening is the right concentrate for the job. Dilute the composition solely according to the instructions. Excessive concentration of bleach will kill the wood and lose its aesthetic characteristics.

How to whiten a blockhouse video from blackness:

Fungi and algae under favorable conditions in wood multiply very quickly. Sometimes logs leave the manufacturer's site without damage, at least visible, and arrive at your site already with a blue one. But this only happens with a wet log (fresh felling or insufficiently dried). Dry wood, under no circumstances, even without protective impregnation, will not bloom: moisture is one of the mandatory conditions for the development of the fungus.

Darkening or blue discoloration of wood does not entail any negative consequences. This is only an external defect. If the log house is sheathed, there is no point in bleaching the wood. Without access sun rays fungi will not develop (the presence of sunlight is the second condition necessary for their development), and the darkening behind the casing is not visible. If you plan to paint the tree with transparent or translucent compounds, you will have to fight.

This is how a log house may look after shrinkage: there are decent darkening. You can only fight them with bleach.

To prevent the development of fungus, it is advisable to coat them with transport antiseptics, which protect the wood for 10-15 days, before sending them. Even with these measures, blue (the result of fungal activity) often appears even after treatment. Then the question arises: how to whiten a log?

Here everything is much worse: white mold has been added to the blue, and you need to fight it mercilessly: it destroys the structure of the tree. Therefore, treatment with bleach is definitely necessary here, and then a powerful bioprotective impregnation

To prevent or stop / slow down the development of the fungus, it is important to properly store the lumber until the moment the construction of the log house begins. It is far from always possible to lay a log house straight from the wheels. Even if it was planned so, in most cases there are hitch. And an incorrectly folded log is quickly damaged by fungus.

Therefore, immediately make ventilated stacks. They should be located in a dry area of ​​the ground, and preferably in the shade. But the issues of light and shadow are not fundamental. Finding a dry area is much more important.

It is no less desirable to close the logs from precipitation: put a temporary canopy. When doing this, do not close the sides. V this case good ventilation is more important than inaccessibility to drops.

Wood bleaching products

All bleaches are made with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Which one is better to use? One that effectively removes the blackening of wood. There is no sense in choosing the composition according to the principle "which is less harmful to the body". If you think that peroxide-based formulations are not harmful to health, then you are greatly mistaken. Both substances belong to the same group of hazardous substances - II (highly hazardous substances). Judging by the concentration standards in drinking water then chlorine brings less harm: maximum permissible concentration of chlorine 0.3 - 0.5 mg / l, hydrogen peroxide - 0.1 mg / l. Therefore, it is worth focusing on the efficiency of processing, and not on the composition.

Many people believe that bleaches remove only the external manifestations of the vital activity of fungi. This is not true. Both chlorine and active oxygen are very active oxidants. They destroy fungi and their spores. Another thing is that they cannot always penetrate the entire depth of the defeat. If after processing the disputes remain, then subject to the appropriate conditions ( high humidity and sunlight), they can multiply again (after the composition has finally disappeared). Therefore, during construction and finishing works you need to do everything so that moisture that inevitably gets into the wood is quickly and efficiently removed.

Speaking by brands, the most widespread are:

• Neomid (500 - bleach);
• Senezh (NEO - for soft whitening and removal of fungus from the surface, EFFO for deep whitening, but also kills the fungus on the surface);
• Hoarfrost and Hoarfrost Prof (Prof - for deep whitening, Just Hoarfrost - for gentle);
• Sagus - has conflicting reviews. For some it works well, for others it doesn't work at all, so you need to try.

Each of these formulations is used, sometimes more successfully, sometimes less. So to tell you unequivocally which composition is difficult to process. It is important that a protective film-forming composition is not applied on the log: then any of the compositions will not penetrate inside and the result will either not be at all, or it will be weak.

The effectiveness of whitening is strongly influenced by climatic factors. If bleaching is going to be carried out at low temperature and high humidity, the effect will be much worse than in dry warm weather. These compounds have a lower temperature threshold of + 5 ° C, but already at + 7-8 ° C they do not work very well. In this case, it is better to leave the blockhouse to dry out until warm weather: the less moisture there is in the wood, the more efficient the treatment will be. And do not be afraid that the log will turn black even more: it will dry out. That's what's important.

When treating with wood bleach, the condition of the log is also important. If it is wet, and the lesions are deep and the composition diluted according to the instructions does not give the required result, you will have to reduce the amount of water.

Attention! For dried wood or for a shallow and local lesion, the proportions must be observed clearly: exceeding the concentration leads to the destruction of the wood structure and then it quickly collapses. If the log has high humidity, then there is already a lot of water in it, and a more concentrated composition will not do much harm.

If you do not know what to choose, buy a canister of the compounds you like and try it on a certain area. Whichever tool works best and buy at scale.

It is better to buy at proven points: fakes are rarely of high quality. Also check the date of manufacture: no more than a month should pass from the date of release. Then the composition will be exactly workable.

Sequencing

Specific actions depend on the stage at which the construction of your bath (house) is.

Before construction starts

If the logs have just been brought in, and some are already affected by the blue, they need to be treated with bleach before being placed in the blockhouse. If only some of the materials are affected and there are absolutely clean logs or beams, then it is better to smear only the affected ones, leaving the rest as they are.

After the bleach treatment, the surface is treated (after the bleach has dried). Don't forget to handle the bowls as well as the ends.

Just do not confuse: after bleaching, treat not with a finishing film-forming compound, but either based on solvents (they are not very fond of being environmentally friendly). It is an antiseptic, preferably deep penetration, which does not form a film.

If the log does not need bleaching, it is not covered with an antiseptic. The point is that after shrinkage you will have to. And wood treated with an antiseptic is not polished well. If the log is clean, and there is a season with a minimum of precipitation ahead, or low temperatures, then without moisture or heat, fungi will not develop without any processing.

After shrinkage. Chances are good that all the blue will be removed

After installing the log house, it is covered with a roof and in this state is left to dry out / sit down. There is one point: during this period, you need not to tighten the film. You can hammer with boards, but with slots so that moisture can freely come out. You can also use vapor-permeable films (if the film is with one-sided conductivity, do not confuse which side it needs to be nailed - rough to the street). If you close the openings tightly, chances are good that mold or white fungus will also get blue. Therefore, take care of ventilation.

The blue of the dried logs (beams)

After drying and shrinking, the time comes for polishing the log house. . Here again the need for whitening may arise. If there is blue - you bleach, if there is no - it is not necessary. Then comes the polishing of the log house. In the process, many minor lesions that the bleach did not remove can be removed mechanically: you still have to remove the darkened layer of the wood, so that the fungus-affected wood can also be removed.

After the first pass grinder assess the condition of the treated logs. If there are dark spots, treat them with bleach again. Only this time you need to act with caution: light spots on wood are just as pleasing as dark ones. Therefore, the sequence is as follows: first, abundantly moisten the darkened area, and then rub with a brush “blurring” the limits of the treated area. After the bleach has dried, the blockhouse is sanded with an abrasive with a fine grain to a smooth state.

Then, immediately cover. You can use combined means, or you can use three different ones. Only you need to select compatible formulations.

If it works, take all the products of the same brand: there will be no compatibility problems. If this does not work, before purchasing a large batch, buy the selected funds in small packaging. Using them, on some unnecessary piece of wood (cover it with a layer of the last composition applied to the walls), try how they behave in combination. It is necessary that they do not react and do not stain the wood. For example, some antiseptics in combination with chlorine give a pink color. Also, watch whether the product lays down evenly, does not roll and how well it is absorbed.

On the same test, determine how much you like the selected finish coat tone and how many coats you will need to apply to achieve the desired result.

The effectiveness of protection, unfortunately, cannot be determined in any way. Unless you can see if the water will repel. After topcoat dry, spray the board and see what happens. Drops should run off but not be absorbed.

How harmful is whitening a log house

Building wooden bath or a house, I really do not want to use chemistry. Unfortunately, there is no other way to protect wood. Yes, chemistry is not useful, but fungal spores will not be beneficial either. Moreover, the most harmful component - chlorine evaporates quickly enough. He simply cannot be in an incoherent state for a long time. It is volatilized or precipitated as chlorides.

Means for "treatment" and bleaching of wood Lignofix Top (Lignofix Top)

That is why, when whitening log cabins inside, it is necessary to provide a draft, as well as work in a respirator. Chlorine fumes from inhalation can burn the respiratory tract.

A respirator will not interfere with outdoor work, but it is not so critical there.

And although the chlorine will disappear by the "start" of the bath, run a few fireboxes "idle". At the same time, you will test the new oven, and also understand a little how exactly you need to handle it.

If you really do not want to leave traces of bleach on the wood, you can rinse off all residues with water after the drying time specified in the instructions. How effective it is is a question. But, most likely, it will calm you down. At least in part. After washing the logs, wipe immediately with a dry cloth: excess moisture is useless.

If you really don't want to use chlorine at all, there is a new composition: Lignofix Top (Lignofix Top). Its manufacturers are called a medicinal antiseptic. It consists of fungicides and insecticides dissolved in water, that is, it acts on fungi and insects. It's hard to say how harmful it is to human health, but it works well: there are no complaints so far. But this product has only been on the market for a few years, so the term of use is not long.

List of products Lignofix means for the "treatment" and bleaching of wood and their properties (to enlarge the picture, right-click on it)

How to avoid repeated defeats

Almost all wood pests cannot reproduce in dry environments. They need moisture. Because your the main task provide:

• , as well as roofs);
• when installing the roof, make overhangs of sufficient length so that they protect the upper crowns from atmospheric precipitation;
• effective ventilation.

Moreover, ventilation is not only indoors. It is also blowing the facade, if there is exterior decoration, and space behind interior decoration(). It is equally important to make the correct drainage of water in wet rooms.

For Russian baths, it is very important to dry everything well after the procedures. To do this, arrange a draft and throw a couple of logs into the firebox. After a couple of hours, the bulk of the moisture will evaporate. Only then can the bathhouse be closed.

The consequence of long operation wooden house is the blue of the wood. The reason for the appearance of blue is certain types fungus that forms over time on the surface of an old wooden house, especially in cases where the wooden structure has not been periodically processed protective equipment... However, a healthy tree can have multi-colored spots if the natural pigment is unevenly distributed. Darkened and unevenly colored wood badly spoils appearance at home, in addition, fungi can cause rotting and destruction of the structure of the tree. Effective way the fight against blueness is wood bleaching. What means and how to whiten the walls of a wooden house will be discussed in the article.

Fungus and mold can develop on any wooden surface, regardless of the lumber, even imitation timber and glued laminated timber are not immune from damage by microorganisms. The type of wood also does not matter in this case, the fungus can appear on both inexpensive pine and elite oak.

Highly common reason the appearance of blue is improper transportation and violation of the storage conditions of logs and timber. Lumber should be stored in a well-ventilated, dry place. It is advisable that the site is in the shade and precipitation does not fall on the tree.

Fungi that contribute to the formation of blue and gray plaque on wood develop very quickly, especially in suitable conditions... Therefore, you need to get rid of mold and mildew as soon as traces of their presence are found, especially in the bath. In this room, the most favorable conditions for the reproduction of microorganisms are created - high temperature and high humidity, which significantly speed up the process.

Whitening products

Bleaching of logs is carried out using special bleaching agents, which are divided into two large groups:

1. Chlorine-containing products. These include products containing in their composition: sodium or potassium hypochlorite, bleach, chlorine dioxide.
2. Chlorine-free formulations in which the quality active substances are ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid and alkalis.

Any composition for bleaching wood works on the same principle: it causes an oxidative process, as a result of which the coloring pigment is discolored, and the molecules of the fungi are destroyed.

Before treating wood with bleaching agents, it is necessary to sand the surface well. As a result of sanding, up to 20% of the blue is removed. In addition, the bleach penetrates better into the wood structure and is absorbed by it if it is applied to sanded boards.

So, the main recommendations:

• after bleaching, any composition must be washed off with water;
• acid-based bleach is washed off with an aqueous solution of soda;
• cannot be combined different compositions, the surface can be treated with only one agent.
• if the wood is strongly affected by the fungus, it is necessary to carry out the treatment with a more concentrated composition.
• whitening is most effective if it is carried out at a temperature of 18-20 degrees Celsius and at a humidity of about 60%;
• when processing wood inside the house, it is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the room, because almost all formulations contain components that are unsafe for health. If the treatment was carried out in a bath, it is necessary to heat the room empty twice before taking bath procedures in order to remove chlorine fumes.

Below you will find out how to whiten a log house after sanding.

Wood can be bleached with bleach. Before applying the product, it is necessary to remove the resin from the tree; for this, the surface is treated with soda ash. Next, you need to dilute the bleach with water in the following proportion: 2 kg of dry matter per bucket of liquid. Add 250 g of soda to the diluted solution, mix everything and let stand for a while.

The product is applied with a brush or roller, and 5 minutes after treatment, the surface is wiped with acetic acid. After about fifteen minutes, the wood should brighten. If the wood is not lightened enough, the procedure can be repeated.

Another chlorine-based bleach is whiteness. It is especially effective for outdoor applications. The wood is abundantly moistened with the liquid, and then rubbed well into the surface. When using whiteness, protect your eyes and hands from contact with the product.

Bleaching with hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide is an effective wood lightener. However, it cannot be used for all tree species. For example, when applying a solution to an oak, the tree acquires green tint, but perhydrol is excellent for processing birch and beech.

Whitening is carried out with a 30% solution, it is in this concentration that the composition is most effective. Before applying the product, the tree is moistened with water and treated with 10% ammonia.

Lightening wood with oxalic acid

Oxalic acid must be used with caution as it is highly toxic. Before applying the acid, the surface is treated with sodium hydrosulfite, and then almost immediately the wood is covered with a 10% solution of oxalic acid. After five minutes, both formulations are washed off with water.

Oxalic acid is well suited for bleaching light woods: maple, poplar, birch, linden. To achieve the desired effect, 6 ml of oxalic acid is diluted with 0.1 l of water. The acid remaining on the wood is neutralized with the following composition: 15 g of bleach, 3 g of soda ash and 0.1 l of water. Then the wooden surface is rinsed with water.

Domestic and foreign industry today produces many effective and available funds that can be used to whiten a log or log house.

According to experts, one of the best bleaches is the Russian drug "Sagus", which is used to prevent the formation of corrosion, and also effectively treats wood from fungus and whitens the surface.

Sagus not only brightens the wood, the wood bleached with the agent, acquires an even shade, black spots and spots leave it. The composition is resistant to atmospheric phenomena and humidity, so it can be used both inside and outside the house.

Another domestic preparation that is used to bleach wood is Neomid 500. It removes mold and mildew from wood, evens out its color, and also protects it from insects. For deep lesions, a concentrated composition is used. If there are only small foci of fungus on the tree, the composition is diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio.

Why is self-processing of wood dangerous?

Do-it-yourself whitening masters have very little idea of ​​how difficult and dangerous this process is. All whitening compositions are based on toxic and toxic substances, which, if used incorrectly, can ruin the surface and cause irreparable harm to health.

Non-professionals often incorrectly calculate the concentration of the product, violate the proportions, do not include the necessary components in the composition, which negatively affects the wood.

It is necessary to strictly observe the technology of applying and rinsing the product. The slightest violation technological process can lead to very sad consequences.

To avoid mistakes and prevent Negative consequences, it is necessary to entrust the bleaching of the wooden surface to specialists.

The company "Master Srubov" employs professional craftsmen who know exactly the technology of bleaching wood and have successfully performed this operation more than once.

If the walls of your wooden house are corroded by fungus, darkened and acquired a blue tint, please contact our company. We will quickly and efficiently carry out all the necessary measures to whiten and renovate your home, which will regain its lost beauty.

On the page you will find all our coordinates by which you can contact us in a way convenient for you.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Wood is one of the most popular materials in construction. And there are a number of reasons for this demand. Wood is environmentally friendly clean material, which has high strength, relatively light weight and other characteristics.

But, unfortunately, there are no eternal materials. Wood is susceptible different kinds changes under the influence environment... Over time, wooden buildings, if they are not treated in time with special antiseptics, begin to lose their natural color, turn yellow and fade under the influence ultraviolet radiation... Another trouble that threatens everyone wooden buildings, Is a fungus.

On the market building materials today you can find many drugs that will help to cope with these negative phenomena and prevent their occurrence. One of the most effective means is considered a bleach for wood. This drug not only allows you to "whiten" the wood and get rid of its gray or yellow tint, but, moreover, this tool is very effective in the fight against fungus.

Wood bleach composition

Many companies offer products for bleaching wood buildings today, but not all of them are the same. Let's talk about what wood bleach is made of.

It should be noted right away that the bleaching of wood itself is a process of wood oxidation, which discolors the pigment colors of lignin. In addition, this drug allows you to discolor and destroy the cells of fungi that attacked the wood.

There are two conventional types of bleaches on the market today:

• bleaches with chlorine content - products that may contain potassium or sodium hypochlorites, chlorine dioxide, bleach;
• chlorine-free preparations - bleaches that are produced on the basis of hydrogen peroxide. Such products also contain ammonia or alkali, oxalic acid, etc.

It is best to consult with a specialist to select a bleach for your wood species. After all, an incorrectly selected drug can lead to many problems: poor discoloration of dark spots, rolling when applied to the surface of a tree, etc.

It is also worth noting that not every tree can be given its original or similar appearance. The fact is that only those damages that are on the surface of the wood are well bleached. Experts say that today the penetration depth of any whitening agent is no more than three millimeters. It is clear that such a tool will not completely cope with damages that are deeper.

Caution with wood bleach

Above, we examined the standard set of substances that are part of wood bleaching agents. It is clear that both chlorine and ammonia require special care when working with preparations that contain them. Therefore, we will name the basic safety rules when using bleach for wood:

1. Bleach should only be kept in plastic containers.
2. Bleach treatment can only be done with synthetic brushes.
3. When working with bleaches, you must use individual means protection such as gloves, goggles, protective clothing and a respirator.
4. After the bleach on wood has completely dried (about 24 hours), the surface must be rinsed with water.

Wood treatment with bleach

There are many ways to treat wood with bleach, and they depend on the drug you use.

For example, the whitening preparation "Hoarfrost" includes two formulations. The first one is applied to a dry, unpainted wood surface, previously cleaned of mold and mildew. After the composition has dried (about 12 hours), composition No. 2 is applied to the surface of the wooden structure.

Other drugs, for example, NEOMID, Zelest Blikta and others, have a simplified technology of use. To bleach wood, the products are simply applied with a synthetic brush to a previously prepared dry surface (free from dirt, mold, etc.). After the bleach has dried (about 24 hours), it is advisable to rinse the treated wood with water. Repeat the bleaching procedure if necessary.

Which composition you choose depends on your capabilities and the condition of the wood. We only note that after using wood bleach, it is recommended to cover the building with special antiseptics, which will help prevent reappearance mildew and mildew, wood fading, etc. Properly carried out bleaching and protection from further damage will extend the life of a wooden building for more than a dozen years.

The paint can not always cover the uneven color of the wood. Even healthy wood can have multi-colored spots - this is a sign of an uneven distribution of natural pigment. And what about wood that has been stored for years and darkened under the influence of air. Sometimes it is necessary to bleach wood in order to give it a perfect White color... Bleaching is carried out immediately before dyeing the wood.

Whitening agents include hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid, bleach and titanium peroxide, and compared to others, hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid and all-purpose fabric bleach are the most effective and affordable.

Each solution is prepared at the rate of 50 ml per 1 m2 of surface. But they all must have a certain consistency.

A 10–12% solution of hydrogen peroxide is suitable for bleaching wood. It is not necessary to increase the amount of perhydrol - this can destroy the upper layers of the wood. Better to add ammonia in proportion: for 10 parts of solution 1 part of alcohol. In order for the surface to evenly discolor, apply the solution to the wood 3-4 times with a cotton swab or a regular brush every 10-15 minutes. The effect will not be noticeable immediately, but only after 1-2 days. After the wood acquires desired color, the solution is washed off warm water.

Oxalic acid is more toxic than hydrogen peroxide, so it is used only in the form of an aqueous 5-10% solution. The oxalic acid bleaching process includes several stages. First, prepare its 10% solution and 20% sodium hydrosulfite solution. The surface is treated with a salt solution, after which oxalic acid is immediately applied, mixing the two components on the surface. After no more than 5 minutes, the solutions are removed by rinsing the product with warm water.

Oak is practically resistant to bleaching with hydrogen peroxide. With prolonged exposure to this substance, its wood only acquires a greenish tint. This reagent is effectively used to bleach rocks such as Walnut, birch and beech. Before applying a 30% hydrogen peroxide solution, the veneer or array is moistened with warm water, slightly dried and treated with a 10% ammonia solution. A mixture of 20% ammonia and hydrogen peroxide solutions in a ratio of 10: 1 is recommended for bleaching ash and birch.

Light wood species - linden, birch, maple, poplar - are bleached with a solution of 1.5-6 ml of oxalic acid in 100 ml of boiled water. To neutralize the acid remaining on the product, use the following composition: 15 g of bleach, 3 g soda ash, 100 ml of water. First in hot water dissolve the soda, and after the resulting solution has cooled, bleach is added to it. Treatment with this composition contributes not only to bleaching the wood, but also to raising the pile.

After applying all the solutions, the part is thoroughly washed with water and dried.

Oxalic acid is used to bleach oak veneer, less often a 5% solution of citric or acetic acid. Accelerated whitening can be done with aqueous solution which contains 2% sulfuric acid, 1.5% oxalic acid and 2.5% sodium peroxide.

Sometimes, when bleaching, the wood of some species takes on rather unexpected shades. So, walnut, which has a contrasting texture, becomes grayish-blue or pink, and oak - greenish.

From the book: Korshever N.G.Wood and glass works