personal experience growing seedlings is shared by Svetlana Shcherbak from Krasnoyarsk:

Finding out why seedlings GROW BAD

It happens that seedlings grow poorly, or even simply stop developing. Such a nuisance can happen to any culture. What is it connected with? In my practice, there were such reasons:

1. Poor quality seeds.

It is especially clearly observed when you sow one crop, but several different varieties. At the same time, the soil is the same, and the conditions of detention, but in one container there are strong and joyful shoots, and in the next one there are thin small “misunderstandings”, which at first noticeably lag behind in growth, and then may die altogether.

You can try to feed the seedlings complex fertilizers, support growth stimulants. But in my case, as a rule, such seedlings still remain among the “lagging behind”. I think so: it is easier to come to terms with the loss at this stage, because then you can not wait for a normal harvest at all. As a rule, if poor quality seeds are the cause of poor growth, nothing good will grow from them anyway.

2. Conditions of detention.

Passion for watering, lack of heat can lead to oxygen starvation of the roots and their decay, stunted growth of seedlings, and then to illness and death of the plant.

For some reason, this happens to me more often in the first days after picking: I try to support the disturbed plants with water that have undergone the stress of transplantation, and as a result - losses. If I notice that the plant is “thinking” and does not increase in growth, and even more so when other symptoms appear, I urgently take measures: I correct the microclimate, loosen it, and reduce watering. It is important to do this as early as possible, before the process has become irreversible.

* By the way! In printed sources, seedlings after picking are recommended to be sprayed with Epin-Extra. It helps plants survive picking easier, increases the survival rate of seedlings, and relieves stress. Worth every penny, easy to use. A modern drug (albeit a chemical one).

3. Seedlings of tomato and petunias often suffer from chlorosis - lack of iron.

This deficiency is manifested by a pale yellow, sometimes almost white color of the apical leaflets. Gradually, such a color scheme covers all the leaves, the plant slows down growth, weakens. I noticed that the plant does not always die, but it blooms poorly, looks weak and sick (and, for example, this is completely unacceptable for a petunia).

Trouble is easily treated. With an interval of 5-7 days, I spray all plantings with a solution of a preparation containing iron, always in a chelate form. In addition, experienced people recommend canceling the illumination of seedlings.

4. Damage to the roots when picking.

Another reason may be inaccurate picking, when the roots are damaged or bent when moving to a new container.

5. "Beach" for seedlings - root rot, "black leg".

Among the causes of the development of the disease are thickened sowing and waterlogging of the soil. To prevent the development of a black leg, I lay out the seeds sparsely when sowing, if necessary, immediately after germination, I thin out so that all plants are “ventilated”. For prevention, I water with a weak solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate.

* Of the modern drugs for the prevention and treatment of the black leg, the drug "Gliocladin" is successfully used.

6. Lack of nutrients can cause growth retardation.

Yes, yes, and it happens, although I harvest for seedlings fertile soil with humus. Therefore, do not neglect fertilizers.

So that seedlings grow well ... What to do?

The seedlings will “tell” themselves about their “diseases” or the need for additional nutrition. It is only necessary to carefully inspect the landings every day and stop the troubles when they are detected. As, for example, in the case of chlorosis, described above.

What to water, feed, spray?

Pale or yellowish bottom castings indicate a need for nitrogen. With a lack of fluorine in petunias, for example, the leaves (or only their veins) turn purple, but in tomatoes this shade can indicate hypothermia of seedlings, and in cabbage seedlings - about full health. If additional nutrition is needed, we proceed to urgent top dressing.

I apply superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, urea or complex azophoska under the root in the form of a solution (30 g per bucket of water). I use these fertilizers in cases where the plants themselves "signal" about the lack of any element.

In general, I try to feed every 7-10 days with the Nitroammofoska mineral complex. I water under the root, only after watering with plain water.

By the way, in order for the seedlings to grow well, experts recommend not waiting for alarming symptoms, but fertilizing regularly, starting from the second week after picking.

It is necessary to alternate nutritional compositions with different elements, or use complex mineral fertilizers. It is noted that foliar top dressing (spraying on leaves) is in many cases more effective than root top dressing, they act faster.

I use a folk remedy for spraying. A week or two after picking seedlings of petunias (and other flowers), peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, I spray with a solution of iodine and milk: for 10 liters of water, 9-10 drops of iodine and a glass of milk. Such a “treatment” is good not only for the prevention of viral and bacterial diseases, but for some reason it also helps in some incomprehensible (for me) cases, when seedlings wither for no apparent reason, lower their “ears”, and signs of oppression appear.

Before planting seedlings in the ground, I spend at least two more preventive sprayings:

• Boric acid (solution 5-10 grams per bucket of water). Boron is needed not only for the correct and active development of plants, but also for flower crops - for lush long flowering, and for fruit species - to increase productivity;
• Bordeaux liquid or light blue solution of copper sulfate I work both the leaves and the soil. Such treatment is the prevention of the development of fungal and bacterial diseases. There is little description of this method of feeding seedlings. But in my own practice, I was convinced that it works perfectly. Copper sulphate does a great job with the black leg. Due to copper, tomatoes become resistant to phytophthora (there is another way: lower part tomato stalks are pierced when landing on a ridge copper wire, make a loop out of it and leave it like that). It works against fungi and bacteria in seedlings in the same way as in adult plants. I can still do without boric acid, but definitely not without blue vitriol! Bordeaux mixture is prepared according to the instructions (200-gram pack per bucket). If simple vitriol - by eye. I feed the seedlings, I even process the tomato 2 times: before or after picking (when it takes root), and then, when it grows up.

I once read on one of the Internet forums that seedlings of petunias "loves" sour - the usual culinary citric acid . I followed the advice, once a week I water the petunias with a weak solution. I pour a little “lemon” water under the root of the seedlings, using a small syringe for this (without a needle). Indeed, petunias after that look more fun.

Other problems and how to solve them ...

As, probably, with every gardener, atypical "complications" sometimes occur.

For example, in a bowl with pre-treated soil, the plants suddenly began to fall one after another. Under a magnifying glass, I found an even cut of a painfully flattened stalk. I treated the soil with Aktara (0.2 mg per 10 l). Looks like insects attacked.

Other pests periodically infect the green parts of the seedlings. For example, spider mite. The result of his "activity" - a thin mesh on the leaves that turned yellow at once - is not immediately visible. Bathing plants (whole) in a saturated soapy solution helps. Normal will do. laundry soap. It is good if the soapy moisture and the soil will saturate.

There are also funny things. Here, very small seedlings began to fall out. I remember the background: I previously shed the soil with Fitosporin and potassium permanganate, after sowing I did not abuse it with watering, I sprayed it a week before the incident blue vitriol, and in 2-3 days - milk and iodine.

Watering with something else is dangerous, the humidity is already increased. Reminds me of something I read somewhere folk remedy: diluted 25 grams of medical alcohol in a bucket of water (I think a simple one will do), just in case, added Fitosporin thicker and risked watering ... I don’t know what it was, and what remedy worked, but the seedlings stopped falling out!

Svetlana Shcherbak, Krasnoyarsk Territory

Tomato seedlings are not so whimsical compared to eggplants and peppers, however, this culture can also cause a lot of trouble. Often, it happens that it does not grow. This problem can overtake both novice summer residents and experienced vegetable growers. In this article, we will analyze what to do if tomato seedlings grow poorly, and the factors that led to this.

There are a lot of reasons why tomato seedlings have stopped growing.

Improper nutrition

When the seedlings began to grow very poorly, first of all, you need to pay attention to feeding the seedlings. Often vegetable growers do not pay due attention to this, although tomato substrates are in great need of feeding. Before plant transplantation open ground, this must be done at least 4 times with certain breaks.

To begin with, carefully examine the seedlings themselves:

1. From a lack of nitrogen, the stems become thinner, the leaves become pale and small, and the seedling itself looks frail. In this case, the seedlings must be fed with urea (4 g of the substance per 10 liters of water).
2. If the leaves of the tomato turned red on the underside, then this indicates a lack of phosphorus. Fertilize with superphosphate (12 g per bucket of water).
3. Yellowing and curling of leaf plates is observed with potassium deficiency. Feed with potassium sulfate as directed.
4. With a lack of magnesium, the seedlings become marble, and they stop growing from a lack of iron. To cure seedlings, remove the bushes in the shade and add magnesium sulfate (25 g per bucket).

It is important to adhere to the indicated proportions so as not to overdo it with fertilizers. Bird droppings are also considered extremely useful. Fill it with water and let it brew for several days. Pour the resulting mixture into the root zone of the tomato.

Diving errors

When seedlings do not develop, it is likely that the reason for poor growth lies in improper picking. This procedure is very important for the full growth of tomato seedlings. It is carried out when it is time to separate the grown sprouts from each other so that they do not intertwine with roots.

The process is quite delicate. When transplanting weak plants, the root system can be damaged. In this case, it remains only to wait until it grows and recovers.

If you are a beginner gardener and don't want to mess around with a pick, then this can be avoided. In this case, sow the seeds in different containers.

Mistakes in care

If the tomato seedlings have risen and stopped growing further, then perhaps you are not taking care of the seedlings so well.

The most common care mistakes are:

1. Poor seed quality. Experts recommend planting only those seeds that are younger than 5 years old.
2. Lack of heat. Tomatoes are very thermophilic plants. Optimum temperature for them is from 24 degrees and above. If the room is cold, then periodically turn on the lamp above the seedling box.
3. Low nutritional value of the soil. Of course, land from the private sector and the garden belongs to budget option, however, it may not always be good quality. It is best to buy the substrate in a flower shop.
4. Wrong watering. Seedlings should be watered once a week. It is not worth overdrying the soil, excessive watering is also harmful.
5. Cat urine. Oddly enough, a pet can greatly harm plants. It is generally accepted that cat urine destroys tomato seedlings, so try to remove containers with sprouts as far as possible.

When growing tomatoes at home, keep an eye on every little thing. Only in this case it is possible to grow full-fledged seedlings. Separately, we will analyze about diseases and pests that prevent seedlings from growing.

Diseases of seedlings and their pests

The most common lesions are:

Blackleg

it fungal disease, which poses a particular danger to seedlings. First, the stems darken from below, then the plant dries up and the roots begin to rot. In addition, this disease is contagious - there is a possibility of infection and other germs.

Sick plants should be removed, and the remaining ones should be transplanted into another container. The soil is taken new and calcined sand is added there and wood ash. After that, it should be sprayed with the "Fundazol" preparation in accordance with the instructions and do not water until the soil is completely dry.

Septoria

The main symptom of the disease is dirty white spots with a dark border around the edges. This is also a fungal disease that is carried along with the soil. Diseased plants are completely removed, and the surviving ones are transplanted. Before sowing, it is necessary to warm up and disinfect the earth.

Root and root rot

Appears in case of soil overflow or a long stay of a container with seedlings at low temperatures. You will have to act quickly. Dig up the seedlings, wash the roots in a solution of potassium permanganate or "Fitosporin" and plant in new soil.

spider mite

In general, as vegetable growers and amateurs note, growing tomato seedlings does not take too much time. The most important thing is to provide the plants with an optimal microclimate and periodically monitor them, because most growth problems can be prevented.

Most best practices to save tomato seedlings from problems are as follows:

• read the recommendations for growing tomatoes;
• prepare in advance the conditions for their successful growth (take care of the temperature, humidity and lighting parameters);
• choose a good soil;
• grow stress-tolerant varieties.

Grow healthy and strong seedlings a tomato is much easier than it seems at first glance.

SEEDLINGS OF TOMATOES DO NOT GROW, WHAT TO DO Even experienced gardeners very often face such a problem that tomato seedlings abruptly stop growing. If this happens, then there is no need to panic. It is necessary to find out as soon as possible what is the reason for such a sudden stop in growth, and there may be several of them: 1. Inadequate nutrition If the plant does not grow and develop well, most likely it does not have enough nutrition. Symptoms of a deficiency of one or another element can be as follows: - With a lack of nitrogen, plants look stunted with a thin stem, small pale leaves. The appearance of a red-violet hue on the underside of the leaves indicates a deficiency of phosphorus. lower leaves turned yellow at the edges and curled up, which means that there is not enough potassium. The absence of such an element as magnesium is manifested by marbling of the leaves. In these cases, the treatment of seedlings is to carry out the necessary top dressing. - With a lack of iron, tomato seedlings do not grow, because it develops chlorosis. Leaves of plants become discolored and turn yellow. In the presence of such symptoms, immediately stop highlighting the seedlings. In advanced cases, feed and spray with iron-containing preparations. 2. Incorrect picking Another of the most common reasons why seedlings stop growing is incorrect picking, namely: - The roots are bent. - The roots are too severely torn off or damaged. - When planting, the roots are poorly compressed with soil, which created air cavities next to them. 3. Poor care - Drenched seedlings suffocated from lack of oxygen. - The soil is not suitable. In the first case, it is necessary to clean the drainage hole, and in its absence, transplant the remaining plants. In the second - as soon as possible to change the soil. 4. Diseases. The most common diseases that inhibit its growth are: - Root and root rot, which leads to overflow of seedlings at low air or soil temperatures. Urgently save the remaining seedlings by transplanting into fresh soil. Pre-wash the roots in a solution of phytosporin or magnesium. - Black leg is a common infectious disease that develops very quickly in adverse conditions. Symptoms: darkening of the root collar, its softening and death of the plant. Control measures: the affected seedlings are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then it is spudded and placed more rarely. The room must be systematically ventilated. However, plants can be saved only at the very first stage of the disease, so inspect the seedlings every day. - Pests The most common pests are spider mites, earwigs or wood lice. Treat the seedlings with fitoverm. Having figured out why tomato seedlings do not grow, you can begin to eliminate the causes.

Tomato seedlings do not grow - we take action

When growing such a wonderful crop as tomatoes, gardeners face a number of difficulties, the most common problem is that tomato seedlings do not grow.

Tomato seedlings require compliance with certain conditions, for example, compliance with a special temperature regime. Immediately after the appearance of the first shoots during the week, the boxes with seedlings are cleaned in a cool place, during the day the temperature should be 16-18°C, at night - 13-15°C.

Then the temperature can be raised to 20°C during the day and 16°C at night. Specified temperature regime observe until the third true leaf appears in the tomato (approximately 30-35 days). During this time, the seedlings are watered 3 times under the root, the third time watering is carried out on the day of picking an hour before it starts. The recommended water temperature for irrigation should be 20°C.

After the appearance of two true leaves, seedlings should be sprayed daily (in the morning) with low-fat milk (1 cup per liter of water), this procedure is the prevention of viral diseases.

On the 12th day after picking, the seedlings are fed with nitrophoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Watering is carried out moderately as the soil dries.

If, under the specified conditions, the tomato seedlings do not grow or grow slowly, then the tomatoes can be fed with a growth stimulator, for example, sodium humate. The solution is diluted to a consistency resembling tea in color and tomatoes are fed 1 cup per plant.

Two weeks before planting, tomatoes must be hardened off by placing them on a balcony or under an open window. First for 2-3 hours then for the whole day. The hardening temperature should not fall below 8-10 degrees C.

Petunia seedlings grow poorly:

To each according to his ability

Sometimes seedlings do not grow for a simpler reason. When the roots have completely used up the volume they offer earth mixture, filled the seedling container with themselves and there is nowhere for them to grow further. In this case, a pick is needed, that is, transplanting sprouts into larger cups or pots. The roots, and with them the aerial parts of the seedlings, will immediately resume their growth.

Proper nutrition - "developing" fertilizers

At two weeks of age, petunia seedlings already need to be fed. If your seedlings are already mature, they grow for a long time in the same soil, in which there is no longer nutrients, it is not surprising if the sprouts begin to “slow down”. Petunia does not grow well without regular feeding.

Buy a liquid or dry fertilizer with a high content of nitrogen (N) - it is he who is needed most in seedling age to form the above-ground part of the plant. Don't forget the roots too! For their development, fertilizer manufacturers add phosphorus (P) to their products. Potassium (K) is responsible for budding, flowering and fruiting, so this trace element can be in a small amount in a fertilizer for feeding seedlings.

Petunia seedlings are watered with fertilizer, the concentration of which is 2 times less than indicated on the label (the instructions indicate the ratio of fertilizer and water for adult plants)

It is highly desirable that the composition of the fertilizer for your petunia seedlings, in addition to the NPK formula, also includes other important trace elements: iron, boron, magnesium, zinc, etc. But only in a chelated form (sometimes in salt form - not very successful)! Chelates are 2-10 times better absorbed than trace elements in inorganic salts. Therefore, using fertilizers with chelates, you can be sure that the trace elements have reached their intended purpose. Very quickly microelements begin to act and you will see the result!

Petunia seedlings do not grow - let's start stimulation

Suppose you have already changed the soil, and apply the necessary fertilizer and generally rush around with seedlings, like with a hand-written sack, but the petunia still does not grow well. Then we apply plan "B" and will use to stimulate growth " secret weapon"- vitamins of group B. More precisely: B1, B6 and B12.

Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamin B1 and B12 in a glass of warm water (250 ml). Stimulant composition is ready! If the sprouts are still very small, draw the solution into a syringe or pipette and carefully apply 1-2 drops to the seedlings. For adult seedlings, you can use the method of spraying the solution from a spray bottle. Do such procedures every 7-10 days, alternating vitamins B1 and B12, and watch the increased growth of sprouts.

Vitamins for petunia seedlings can be bought at a pharmacy.

You can make another, more "lethal" solution. Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamins B1, B6 and B12 in 1 liter of water. Spray seedlings with this cocktail every 10 days.

After spraying with B vitamins, even the most stunted sprouts instantly start to grow. A huge number of new growth points are laid, root formation is stimulated, resistance to diseases and pests increases. At the same time, seedlings grow squat, powerful and bushy.

What to do if seedlings do not grow in peat pots?

Peat pots are hollow conical cups. This is a dry molded and pressed peat product, transportable, has a long shelf life.

Compared with improvised means (plastic, paper or ceramic containers), peat pots– biologically clean house for plants. Pots do not contain pathogenic microflora and weed seeds, and the content of toxic chemical substances: heavy metals, pesticide residues and benzopyrenes - below the maximum permissible concentrations (MAC) established for soil intended for crop cultivation. Peat is light, clean and safe to use, does not contain weed seeds and pathogens of various diseases of vegetable and flower crops.

The wall thickness of good pots is 1-1.5 mm, which guarantees the unimpeded development of the root system of plants along with maintaining the strength of the pot and the ability to quickly decay in the ground (within 32 days after planting), thereby relieving farmers from the hassle of collecting parts of undecomposed pots when harvesting fields .

• 100% seed germination;
• balanced nutrition of young plants with organic and mineral elements;
• growth, healthy development and rapid rooting of plants;
• optimal moisture capacity and air capacity of containers for plants;
• protection of plants from bacterial diseases;
• high survival rate of seedlings due to a fully formed root system;
• protection of the root system from damage, drying out during transplantation or transportation;
• accelerated development of plants due to the lack of risk of injury to the root system.

But is it really so rosy? Based on my own experience, as well as on the basis of a huge number of reviews read on the Internet, I can say that rarely anyone manages to achieve the above excellent results. There are several reasons:

Pots that are passed off as peat pots are often made from ordinary pressed cardboard. Cardboard does not decompose as quickly as peat, and this leads to the fact that in the fall, when cultivating the soil, the gardener sees an undecomposed pot with a ball of roots. The roots of many plants are too tender and cannot break through walls that are overly compacted by stamping.

Peat containers for seedlings dry out quickly. Therefore, it is difficult to control the watering of plants. If not topped up, the plant may dry out. If poured, mold appears on the pot and growing substrate, which has a very adverse effect on seedlings.

Harmful for tender roots and a decrease in soil temperature, which occurs due to abundant evaporation of water from the walls of the pot. In general, there are pluses, there are minuses, and the truth is somewhere in the middle. To preserve the benefits and reduce the harm of adverse factors, you can do the following:

• To facilitate the passage of the delicate roots of the plant through the walls of the cup, you can pre-hole it in several places (you can do this with an ordinary hole punch).
• Wrap each cup in polyethylene (food wrap is fine).
• After purchase, new cups must be soaked in a solution of humate fertilizer with trace elements. This will feed the plants and speed up the decomposition of the cup.

If you decide that your seedlings will be better in other containers, and do not know where to put the already purchased pots, then feel free to plant seedlings of plants with a powerful root system in them. For example, a pumpkin. Its strong roots will easily break through the walls of the glass and such seedlings can be planted directly in the glass on permanent place residence!

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Not everyone knows what to do when tomato seedlings grow poorly. The process of growing tomato seedlings at home is quite complicated for those who have not experienced this before or have tried to do it on their own, but previous attempts were not so successful.

There are several reasons why tomato seedlings do not grow or grow to a certain size, and then stop growing. For example, if tomato seedlings grow poorly, then one of the following reasons can be considered:

• poor quality soil;
• poor-quality care of seedlings.

Poor quality soil

One of the main and obvious reasons for the above process is that you did not prepare enough quality soil before you planted the seeds.

This does not mean that you need to immediately change the land in which tomato seedlings are already growing. It will be enough to observe exactly what changes occur with tomatoes during their growth. So, if suddenly the tomatoes begin to acquire a bluish tint, or the lower edges of the leaves become a little purple, most likely, in this case the earth lacks magnesium.

This element is important for the development root system plants. If there is not enough magnesium, then the roots will be very weak, it is difficult for the roots to cope, and tomato seedlings will not grow. If no measures are taken to enrich the soil with magnesium, you will soon have to say goodbye to hopes for good harvest tomatoes.

Magnesium is quite rare in any substances, so you will have to purchase all special fertilizers in advance, which include this trace element. In order to enrich the soil with it, it will be enough to dilute a certain amount of powder or granules in a certain amount of water. This proportion depends on what concentration of fertilizer you use.

This microelement is no less important for the growth and development of tomatoes during their initial ripening, as well as during the beginning of the harvest. Nitrogen enriches the soil with oxygen and allows both the roots and the plant itself to breathe freely. Thanks to good development roots, it becomes possible to quickly grow excellent tomatoes.

Also, additional symptoms of a lack of nitrogen in the soil are the fact that both the stems of the plant and its leaves become too thin and lethargic.

The lack of nitrogen can be filled with a special fertilizer called urea. It is usually sold in small packages and in overall packages in the form of small granules. white color. These granules must be dissolved in water. You can use plain water at room temperature, and warm water for faster dissolution. In this case, it is necessary to observe the following proportions - for 1 tbsp. l. urea will need 10 liters of water. With this solution, you will need to water all the tomatoes, while watering is done under the root, and not on the leaves of the plants.

After a few days, it will immediately be noticeable that the plants seem to come to life and become brighter, greener. But if you haven’t noticed any changes, you can conclude that something else is the cause of poor seedling growth.

Tomato seedlings: from picking to planting (video)

Poor seedling care

If you have not found any deficiencies in the composition of the soil, then you will need to find some other reason why the tomato seedlings have stopped growing or are growing slowly. Then you can understand what to do so that the seedlings are good.

The next factor that can affect the fact that plants, growing to a certain size, stop stretching and expanding their leaves, may be that you are not properly caring for them. For example, when watering it is possible an insufficient amount supplied moisture or, conversely, excessive watering. Neither one nor the other is suitable for growing tomatoes, as they are rather whimsical plants that need moisture, but not in such quantity as, for example, it is needed for good growth of cucumbers or peppers.

As soon as you decide to sow tomatoes, you need to properly shed the earth so that it is very wet.

This is due to the fact that it is impossible to water the plants before they sprout. And even after this moment, watering can only be started on the 5th day after the appearance of the first shoots.

What if you cannot calculate the correct amount of water? It will be necessary to check the condition of the soil every day. Also pay Special attention on exactly where the tray with seedlings is located. If it is located on the south side and is located on a balcony or on a window, then the drying of the earth will be quite frequent. As a result, you will have to water these plants in almost 2-3 days. If your seedlings grow in a dark and cool place, then they will need very rare watering.

Thus, in order for the seedlings to grow well, it is necessary to pay attention to what soil it is planted in and in what conditions it will grow further. In order for the seedlings not to be small, but, on the contrary, to be strong, it is necessary to feed and water them in time, depending on the condition of the soil. Only after this, the seedlings develop very well, and after some time you will not have to decide why the seedlings do not grow at home.

Why seedlings grow poorly (video)

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