When it comes to repairing or introducing a design solution into your home, you always want to dream up and do everything "with a bang!" Sometimes the owners of wooden private houses think that the owners of the apartments are more fortunate, since the apartment can be turned into anything: be it a French boudoir, a cozy Provencal veranda, or an absolute embodiment of high-tech style.

Today, thanks to modern building materials, the broadest possibilities for solving design ideas are presented equally to both the owners of apartments in panel houses and the owners of wooden houses. This article will focus on a material known to many - drywall. Drywall in a wooden house is not uncommon... And then you will find out why.

It seems that everyone knows about drywall: the partition in the kitchen, the cladding / decoration of the walls in the corridor and even the slopes in the nursery were made of it during the installation of metal-plastic windows!

Drywall on a wooden ceiling

Drywall helps to solve one of the most common problems - the alignment of walls and ceilings with it accelerates significantly. This point is also important because the wooden house shrinks, cracks may appear. In this regard, this issue must be well worked out and taken into account when repairing your home.

Installing drywall on a wooden ceiling

Fastening drywall to a wooden ceiling begins by creating a ceiling sheathing that will be attached directly to the sub-ceiling. At the same time, it should be noted that there is no need for a rigid binding along the perimeter of the wall.

The ceiling lathing should adhere as much as possible to the drywall on the walls, but in no case should it be fixed "tightly". This is done so that nothing happens during the shrinkage process of the draft ceiling with the "false ceiling". The gap that forms during the installation of such a structure can be easily masked with decorative cornices or baguettes.

Now it is worthwhile to understand in more detail what are plasterboard walls in a wooden house. Plasterboard wall decoration in a wooden house is similar to any other wall decoration material.

So, it all starts with the installation of metal profiles, which serve as the basis and guides when working with drywall sheets. Fastening takes place using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, since they have a greater spreading ability than nails, and better fit into the material with a slight indentation, which will allow them to be masked when filling the seams.

IMPORTANT! We draw your attention to the fact that drywall is a material that is intended for interior wall decoration, but it is not suitable for outdoor work. In this regard, we will consider how to sheathe the walls of your wooden home with plasterboard.

Installation of drywall in a wooden house

Installation of drywall in a wooden house, as well as installation of drywall in an apartment, takes place in several stages. A detailed breakdown by stages will help you quickly and efficiently implement your design ideas without spending a lot of time figuring out how to hem or how to fix drywall.

Installation of a metal frame from a profile

To do this, it is necessary, using a plumb line or a vertical level, to make the so-called skip of planes. This means that a straight line is drawn along the wall on the ceiling, parallel to the wall. Then, from this line, a plumb line is thrown at the corners of the ceiling or a level is used and a line drawn on the ceiling is transferred to the floor. If you remember the geometry lessons at school, then this is called the projection of a line onto another plane.

Making a frame

With the help of U-shaped profiles, as well as a CD-profile, we will make a frame, without which the alignment of the walls is impossible. In addition to the above metal profiles, you can also use a wooden profile (beams, slats). In this case, you will create a wooden sheathing, which also serves as a frame. is a budget option and will also delight fans of environmentally friendly materials.

So, interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboardhas certain nuances. Due to the fact that the walls erected by timber tend to "breathe", that is, increase / decrease in volume depending on the change in air humidity, in order to avoid cracks at the joints of drywall sheets, it is prohibited to fix it "tightly" in the surface.

Installation of drywall in a wooden house can be carried out on such bases

• on wooden walls;
• on wooden slats;
• on wooden blocks;
• on wooden beams;
• on a wooden crate;
• on a wooden frame;
• directly to the wooden wall.

Let's take a closer look at what it is like fixing drywall to wooden slats. This fixing option is ideal for those walls where there are any communications that you want to hide / mask or provide additional heat or sound insulation of the surface.

We will need

• slats (soft woods are recommended; section size 100x50 mm or 75x50 mm);
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• dowels;
• drill;
• saw;
• drywall.

Installation process

Having prepared everything you need, you can start the installation process.

• First you need to draw the marking lines for the future fastening of the rails along the perimeter of the walls, as well as lines for the vertical rails.

IMPORTANT! When calculating the spacing between vertical slats, keep in mind that they should be at the junction of drywall sheets.

• Dowels and a drill are used to fasten the slats to the wall. If a gap has formed between the rail and the wall, fill it with wood or drywall scraps.
• It is necessary to install horizontal spacers between the vertical battens.

IMPORTANT! Here it is worth paying attention to the fact that horizontal slats should be installed at different heights.

After creating the base mesh, you can proceed to fastening the drywall.

Optimal mounting option: the edges of each sheet fit exactly in the middle of the vertical and horizontal slats.

To fix the drywall sheets, we use a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. The standard distance between the screws is 15 cm, drive the screws into the surface of the sheet so that the fasteners are slightly recessed into the drywall.

IMPORTANT! If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, first fill them, and then cover them with tape. Be sure to also cover the tape itself with a small layer of putty.

Sandpaper or sand the dried filler and you're done - the wall is ready!

Plasterboard wall decoration in a wooden house: VIDEO

$ Cost of work with drywall in a wooden house

• in Moscow - from 230 rubles / m²;
• in Kiev - from 60 UAH / m².

Today, any design ideas can be realized with the help of such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, window slopes are trimmed, walls are sheathed inside and out, ceilings are trimmed, and interior decorative decoration of a room is also popular. There are several ways of plasterboard wall cladding: frameless connection and the use of a support frame. The second method is most often used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that the plasterboard wall cladding does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Features of the timber frame:

1. First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden blocks, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that moisture can be detrimental to a frame made of wood slats.
2. Carefully inspect the beams before purchasing: they should be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
3. The wood from which the slats and beams are made must comply with fire safety standards.
4. Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more commonly recommended.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the advantages of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall structures, wood also has its own obvious advantages, which make a worthy competitor from a wooden frame to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

• Material availability and low cost.
• High construction speed.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Easy to operate.

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for several days inside the room where the installation will be carried out for acclimatization.

Wall decoration in a wooden house with plasterboard: preparation for work

In any construction business, you cannot do without special tools. To make the work run smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need to work with drywall is listed below.

Instruments:

1. Drill or screwdriver;
2. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
3. Roulette;
4. Marker or chemical pencil.

Materials:

• Wooden slats and bars;
• Self-tapping screws, screws;
• Metal corners.

Any finishing work begins, first of all, with cleaning the work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be covered with a special primer to avoid the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with plasterboard: making a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent decay and destruction of the material.

A few tips before going to work:

1. The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
2. The width of the slats themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of drywall sheets between themselves, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
3. It is better to fasten the slats directly to the wooden wall and to each other. Self-tapping screws are perfect for these purposes.

The assembly of the frame itself should be started by attaching solid beams along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper bars between the vertical bars. Parts of the frame can be fastened together with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars of the required thickness are placed in the right places. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can proceed to attaching drywall sheets to the resulting rails and beams.

Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

• The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
• Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or plasterboard partitions in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws should be processed.

For this we need:

• Putty knife;
• Special putty;
• Reinforced tape or mesh;
• Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring the putty.

You need to start work by preparing a putty mixture. We recommend using a special joint filler. Also find a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should have a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

We apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the seams of the drywall, as if pressing it between them, then cut a piece of tape of the required size and glue it to the processed seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from the self-tapping screws on the drywall, you need to apply a stand of putty to the right place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can, if you wish, prepare the wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you adhere to certain rules and technologies when plastering wooden walls with plasterboard, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, by installing drywall in a log house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (process photo)

Many consider drywall and wood incompatible materials, preferring to leave the timber walls without finishing at all. However, over time, the natural beauty of the timber is lost: the wood darkens over the years, cracks may appear in it. If the time has come to update the interior, drywall in a house made of timber can be the most profitable solution that opens up rich design possibilities.

Options for using drywall sheets in a wooden house

Sheathing a house from a bar with plasterboard will be beneficial for several reasons: this environmentally friendly material will make the walls completely even and neat, which opens the way for any other finish. Often, log houses are finished with clapboard or block house, but these materials are more expensive, and finishing work turns out to be more time consuming. In addition, drywall is a non-combustible finishing material, therefore, unlike lining, it increases the fire safety of the house.

This material does not interfere with natural air exchange, therefore it does not reduce the environmental friendliness of a wooden house. There are a lot of options for using it in the interior:

• Wall cladding. It will allow not only to hide the timber wall that has lost its original beauty. Behind the drywall sheets, you can hide any communication paths and make the interior more neat.
• Erection of partitions. This is a simple and convenient option for redeveloping the premises. Partitions in an ordinary five-walled log house can be positioned in different ways, which will expand the design possibilities and allow residents to make the space as convenient as possible.
• Ceiling paneling. For this, the lightest and thinnest drywall sheets are used. They help to create a multi-level design ceiling that hides all the irregularities of the base surface, as well as wires or other communication paths.
• This material is used for finishing window slopes. You can purchase moisture resistant gypsum plasterboard (GKL), which will be reliably protected from mold.

If you sheathe a log house with plasterboard, you can use any options for wall decoration: wallpaper, panels, tiles and much more. This is an opportunity to completely renew and transform the interior, and at the same time it will not become less beautiful and environmentally friendly.

How to sheathe the walls of a wooden house

One of the advantages of gypsum board is a completely affordable price not only for the sheets themselves, but also for all the materials necessary for their fastening. You will need to purchase a metal profile and self-tapping screws; for work you will need a level, a plumb line and a screwdriver. It is not recommended to use nails to fasten the profile: the thread will provide a stronger connection, and the frame will not loosen over time.

How to sheathe a log house with plasterboard? Wall cladding begins with the installation of a metal frame from a profile. In some cases, instead of metal, a wooden bar is used - this additionally increases the environmental friendliness of the building.

The wooden frame can be assembled from ordinary slats, it will make it easy to hide all communications behind the sheets. A good option for creating a frame is slats with a section of 50x50 mm.

How to sheathe a house from a bar with plasterboard? The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Wall markings. It is done using a tape measure or a long ruler and level: you need to draw vertical and horizontal lines. A line is drawn on the ceiling parallel to the wall, then a vertical frame diagram is built using a level.
2. Fastening the frame to the walls. An important nuance that is important specifically for a wooden house: the frame cannot be attached to the wall tightly. As the temperature and humidity rise and fall, the tree will expand and contract, so a few millimeters of space should be left for the material.
3. Installation of horizontal rails of the frame, which act as spacers. When erecting partitions from this material, the frame is additionally lined with insulation in order to increase their soundproofing qualities.
4. GKL with the help of self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are attached to the frame. Typically, self-tapping screws are placed at a distance of about 15 cm from each other, this allows you to ensure sufficient strength of the fasteners. The caps of the self-tapping screws must be completely recessed into the material, this will avoid problems with finishing.
5. The joints are glued with a special reinforcing tape serpyanka. This is a special tape for drywall joints to prevent cracking. If their width exceeds 3 mm, the gaps are sealed with putty, and the tape is glued only after it is completely dry.

In addition, they must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants to reduce the risk of rotting and fire damage. As a result, the work of installing the frame will take much longer.

Metal does not give such trouble; with due experience, the frame can be completely assembled in 1 day. The metal profile is stronger and more durable, so the gypsum board will be reliably fixed.

Is it possible to use the frameless method in a wooden house

There is also a frameless method of plasterboard cladding, in which the sheets are immediately attached to the surface using a special adhesive. This allows you to maximize the usable area of ​​the room, but in this case it will not be possible to hide the wires behind the sheets.

Sealing the joints of the gypsum board with a serpyanka is also necessary for the frameless method of installing drywall.

Installation of gypsum board without a frame is used only on flat walls: it can be concrete or brick with high quality masonry. Walls made of timber are not absolutely even, so a thin sheet cannot be reliably attached to glue. In addition, adhesives reduce the environmental friendliness of the house, so it is more convenient to use the usual frame method.

Plasterboard sheets are deservedly popular in matters of repair. They solve several problems: leveling the walls, hiding communications under the cladding, preparing the surface for further decoration.

In addition to its practical advantages, GCR has a relatively low cost, which makes it affordable for craftsmen with a small budget for transformations. How to sheathe a log house with plasterboard - detailed instructions below.

Selection of sheets of plasterboard

Trading networks offer a large number of types of panels for subsequent decoration. Having isolated from the total number those that are acceptable in properties, such as resistance to fire and moisture - the most important qualities for a wooden house, you can opt for a sheet labeled as GKLO.

This is a combined material that can remain in its original form in case of any aggressive manifestations. There are also reinforced sheets that can withstand the stresses generated by tiling or other heavy material.

How to make the cladding correctly

It is not difficult to install drywall in a log house on your own. Important! Sheathing should start from the ceiling, and only then on the walls. Any coating is carried out with the construction of the lathing on wooden or metal profiles.

The use of aluminum is fraught with corrosion, but at the same time you do not have to worry about the strength of the cladding during the shrinkage period. Having weighed all the pros and cons, guides are selected, and the surface is prepared for the crate.

This is necessary to create ventilation between the insulation and the cardboard. If it is not necessary to insulate a log house, then a smaller width will suffice, sufficient for convenient laying of electrical communications.

When the design is ready, you should start preparing the sheets. They are cut into convenient squares or with a jigsaw, the drywall is given the shape required by the project. What are these actions for?

GKL is a rather fragile material and with careless handling, or, as is often the case, installation alone, large sizes are inconvenient, and the risk of breaking the sheet increases. Hence the forced overspending of material and waste of funds.

There is another important point in the cladding. This is the so-called sliding fastener for fixing drywall in a log house.

It will not allow you to spoil the flat area during shrinkage, which goes on continuously over the course of the service life.

In this case, the installed sheets will move evenly without disturbing the smooth area of ​​the mounted skin. Further:

• Prepared forms from gypsum plasterboard are attached to the crate. Docking tightly is not allowed again due to shrinkage. A gap of 2mm will be sufficient to compensate.

Then, after the final bringing of the surface to the proper form, you should embroider the joints up to 5 mm from the outside and use a plastic putty to grout the joints. The joints must be glued with a plasterboard serpentine tape, before the putty.

• Correct plasterboarding of the ceiling and walls of a log house with plasterboard is done with self-tapping screws, since the thread holds the heavy material better than the smooth surface of the nail. In addition, self-tapping screws are initially treated with an anti-corrosion agent, and rust stains will not appear on the area intended for decoration.

It means finishing a log house with plasterboard different decoration options. Moisture resistant sheets can be used for laying tiles, plastering and applying liquid wallpaper.

Also, simplifying the work, you can use all kinds of paints, having previously aligned the grout at the seams. Coating compounds should be applied in two layers to the primer - the new structure will absorb paint with tremendous force.

In an effort to save money and at the same time make the interior appearance of a wooden house respectable, the craftsmen use a proven material that is also used in the notorious European-style renovation.

Sheathing a log house with plasterboard is an excellent option that combines an acceptable cost and a good basis for creating an individual interior. And independent work will make the savings very significant.

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Plasterboard finishing of a wooden house: the 3 most obligatory rules

This summer we spent a lot of time studying the suburban real estate market, as we are going to move closer to the city in the near future. Now we know that our funds will only be enough for a house made of timber, so the question of its decoration loomed ahead, and in particular, how to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with plasterboard.

And since most of the finished buildings were erected from a rather thin 15x15 timber, it would be nice to think about insulation.

We are familiar enough with drywall - we have used it more than once during repairs, but the technology of its installation in a new wooden house, as it turned out, has its own nuances.

Finishing rules

I counted three such rules, which are not encountered when facing brick or concrete walls.

The first is prophylactic treatment

It is associated with the instability of wood to moisture, insects, fire and other aggressive factors. If bugs start to appear under the cladding or mold appears, we simply will not know about it until the walls begin to rot and crumble.

Therefore, the first thing to do:

• Good to drill cracks and large cracks, in which bugs can start and moisture accumulates;
• Treat the walls with fire retardant (fire-fighting) and antiseptic (antifungal) compounds;

• And the insulation for drywall in a wooden house must be covered with a vapor barrier film so that moisture from the house does not penetrate the wood. Although it is recommended to do this even when the insulation is not used.

The second is a sliding frame device

The fact that new wooden houses shrink significantly during the first one and a half to two years, I think, is not worth explaining.

• This is natural, since the tree dries up, loses moisture, and with it its original dimensions. It "shrinks".

• At the same time, it also leads: the timber can bend in one direction or another, and the initially even walls become far from even. Of course, this cannot be encouraging, so the walls need to be leveled.
• Dry profiled timber is subject to much less shrinkage, but houses made of it are more expensive. And in those that we can afford, instructions does not recommend starting finishing before complete shrinkage neither inside nor outside.
• But even after the completion of the drying process, the wooden walls continue to "walk", since, depending on the humidity of the air, they either absorb moisture or lose it. The scale, of course, is not already the same, but if the frame for drywall is fixed rigidly on the walls, then the seams between the individual sheets may crack.

That's why the frame must be independent and not move with the supporting base... And the ceiling cladding should not be rigidly connected to the wall cladding. This is precisely the main feature of finishing wooden houses. The installation of the drywall itself, as well as its putty, is carried out in a standard way.

Third - electrical safety measures

There is one more nuance associated with the wiring device. Decorating a log house with plasterboard allows you to hide it behind the cladding. But this is fraught with the fire of the walls due to the slightest damage to the wire, caused by a screw screwed into it or a short circuit. And how quickly such houses burn down, I saw.

That is why the wiring in them is made open, hiding in cable channels. But there is another solution: to tighten all cables in special metal hoses. Not into plastic corrugations and not into plastic water pipes, as is often done, but only into metal ones.

Sliding frame device

If everything is clear with the first and third points, then the second made me get into the study of this issue thoroughly. Because, making repairs with our own hands, we have never thought before that the frame can be mounted in some other way than rigidly against the wall. On the contrary, they tried to tighten everything up.

But, as it turned out, it can reliably hold on to the base and at the same time "float" in the vertical plane together with the lining screwed to it, which excludes its deformation and the appearance of inter-seam cracks. Moreover, it can be both wooden and metal.

Metal carcass

If the cladding of a wooden house is planned immediately after the main shrinkage, it is advisable to use only metal profiles for the frame, as they are not subject to their own deformations due to the influence of external conditions.
Everything you need to create it is listed in the table.

Name	View	Dimensions (edit)	Application
Guide profile		28x27 mm	Leveling on the floor, support for racks
Ceiling profile		60x27 mm	Bearing part of the frame
Self-tapping screw for washer		5-10 cm depending irregularities	Fastening the frame to the wall
Self-tapping seeds		12.5-13.5mm	Connection of frame elements to each other

And a standard set of tools: a level (preferably a laser), a tape measure, a screwdriver with attachments, a cutter, a small grinder, a stepladder, a pencil.

Now about the main points of the sliding frame device.

• First, as usual, the level is bounced along the floor and ceiling, but the rail is only attached to the floor.
• Then, using a laser level and a tape measure, lines are marked for vertical racks, the distance between the axes of which should be 40 or 60 cm.That is, one guide should fall exactly on the junction of two adjacent sheets 120 cm wide, and one or two more should be under them.

• Next, the height of the wall is measured, and the racks are cut so that their length is about 10 cm less than this height: they shouldn't hit the ceiling... And 10 cm is a sufficient margin for possible shrinkage, of course, if the house has already stood for at least a year.
• By the way, I advise you to pay attention to the thickness of the profiles. 0.4 mm is not enough, the frame is flimsy. Better to take 0.6 mm, the price is higher, but the quality is at the same level.
• Now comes the fun part. Take the first stand, apply it to the markings and mark 3-4 attachment points on it in those places where there are no joints or deep cracks in the timber. Both on the wall and on the profile, write the number 1, so as not to be confused later.
• In the marked places, cut with a grinder along the axis of the profile a groove 10 cm long and a little wider than the thickness of the self-tapping screw. Its edges need to be cleaned, they should be smooth. The main length of the groove should extend downward from the intended attachment point.

• In the same way, prepare all the other wall and corner posts, remembering to number, since the grooves can turn out at different levels.
• Now, just above each slot on the wall, you need to fix the stops from pieces of bars, which will not allow the profile to "fall through". Their thickness should be such that the outer edge coincides with the plane of the future frame.

• We fasten the racks to the wall using self-tapping screws with washers of such a diameter that they stably abut against the plane of the profile. In this case, the profile is set "topsy-turvy", and the self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the groove, stepping back from its top point by about a centimeter. When the house collapses, it pulls the rigidly fixed fasteners downward, deforming the struts or pulling out the screws. In our case, this will not happen, since it will move along a specially made slot inside the profile. There is also a small space above in case the wood expands from moisture.

• During the installation process, do not forget to lay electrical wiring behind the frame in metal sleeves.

• Since the drywall cannot be screwed to such a frame, the next step is to combine the already installed U-shaped profiles with the same, but turned with the right side. They are twisted together with self-tapping seeds through the side edges or connected with a cutter.
• Finally, transverse stiffening profiles are installed, after which plasterboard sheathing in a wooden house can begin.

There are also several nuances on the cladding, but about them a little later.

Wooden frame

It is recommended to use wooden blocks as a supporting frame only in houses that have undergone complete shrinkage. They themselves must also be dry and treated with the same compounds as the walls.

The principle of the frame is the same, just the groove is sawn through in the bar. On the outside around the groove, it is advisable to make a sample so that the head of the self-tapping screw does not protrude beyond the plane of the frame.

It is assembled faster than metal, since there is already a plane for attaching drywall. And if you need to minimize the distance between the wall and the cladding, then the bars can be sunk into the wall by sawing a groove in it slightly wider than their thickness. The main thing is that they stick out everywhere behind the unevenness of the wall and create one plane.

And a few more nuances

Since when the log shrinks, the ceiling will go down, we sheathe the wooden house with plasterboard a little differently than usual. Namely:

• First, we veneer the ceiling. By the way, the frame for it also cannot be rigidly attached to the walls; it is better to use flexible suspensions and rods.

• When sheathing the walls, we do not bring the cladding up to a few centimeters (depending on the degree of possible shrinkage) and leave a gap of 1 cm from the floor. These slots can be closed with baseboards and ceiling cornices of the appropriate width, fixing them on horizontal surfaces.
• A thin gap of 1-2 mm should also be left between the sheets. It will be hidden with putty during subsequent finishing, and in the case of uneven movement of different sections of the walls, it will not allow cracks to appear on the drywall.

Conclusion

Of course, if a wooden blockhouse stood for several years before finishing and dried well, then its slight deformations with changes in temperature and humidity may not affect the integrity of the cladding on a rigid frame. And they can influence - it is impossible to predict it.

And we also don’t want to wait for these few years, at most a year, because we don’t like to freeze, which means that the house needs to be insulated for the winter. Therefore, a sliding frame for us is the perfect solution to the problem.

Another way to create it is described in the video in this article, but it seemed to me more complicated and time-consuming. But these are just my personal feelings, so I would like to know the opinion of practitioners or those who have already encountered plasterboard works in houses from a bar. If it's not difficult, share them in the comments.

September 28, 2016

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