Wood is a common, easy to process and environmentally friendly material. It is used in various areas of construction: baths and houses are built from wood and used for interior and exterior decoration. Wood is also used to create furniture and various interior items (from photo frames to stairs).

Wood has a significant drawback: it is prone to decay and does not tolerate moisture well. With increased humidity, a fungus quickly appears on the tree, it begins to rot, losing both its appearance and its qualities. Let's take a closer look at the reasons for this phenomenon, as well as analyze ways to protect wood from rotting and mold.

Causes of wood decay and mold

Of all building materials, wood is the most susceptible to mold and rot. The reasons are as follows:

1. Wood is a natural, living material. It contains enough nutrients for the full growth and reproduction of the fungus.
2. Natural materials are able to breathe, absorb moisture well. From moisture, the tree begins to rot and grow mold.
3. Even a well-dried tree still contains about 20% moisture, which is enough for mold to form. With proper processing, care and maintenance of wooden structures, mold and decay can not be afraid. But if the conditions are wrong, then the fungus will definitely appear.
4. Do not install wooden structures in the ground. In this case, it is almost impossible to protect them from moisture penetration (unless they are additionally covered with something on top).
5. This material is not suitable for rooms with high humidity and poor ventilation. If in such rooms you cannot do without wood (for example, in baths), you need to properly care for them: ventilate, dry, warm.
6. The tree rots in underground rooms if they are not equipped with high-quality internal and external waterproofing and insulation. The reason is sudden changes in temperature and the formation of condensate.
7. The freezing of boards and logs also leads to an increase in humidity and, as a result, the formation of mold and decay.

Why is wood decay dangerous?

In addition to the fact that mold loves to live on wooden products, it is to them that it causes the greatest harm:

• the aesthetic appearance of materials is lost;
• strength is lost;
• shape may change.
• product degradation is accelerated.

In addition, mold growing indoors on finishing materials causes irreparable harm to human health.

Where is wood protection from rotting and mold needed in the first place?

Protecting wood from mold is always and everywhere needed. Especially if indoors are supported:

• high humidity;
• lack of sunlight;
• poor ventilation (insufficient amount of fresh air, poorly working extractor fan, clogged ventilation shaft) or its absence;
• direct contact with the ground;
• sudden temperature changes.

The greatest attention to the protection of wooden structures should be paid in the following areas:

1. If direct contact of logs or boards with the ground is foreseen, it is necessary to provide maximum protection against moisture. This is true for sheds, chicken coops.
2. Often found on wooden racks and boxes. Also often found. In general, underground structures are a symbiosis of all the necessary conditions for the growth of colonies of mold fungi.
3. Often appears - with its improper arrangement and care for it.
4. Also, the processing of wooden products is needed in unheated rooms: in sheds, garages, attics.

How to understand that mold and rot have appeared on the tree?

Rotting wood emits a specific smell. If, upon entering the room, you heard a musty unpleasant smell of dampness, start searching for the “enemy”.

If the mold is not detected and destroyed immediately, wooden products begin to darken, a wet coating appears on them, and they become “soft” in appearance. If you inspect all wooden surfaces, you will find a coating of black, white, green or blue color on them (may be in the form of spots or fluff).

If measures are not taken on time, rot appears in the wood, which quickly begins to destroy its structure.

Protecting wood from rotting, mold and moisture: prevention methods

To prevent rot and mold from affecting wooden products and building materials, there are methods of its protection, as well as the rules of storage and care:

1. Before using wood, it must be properly dried.
2. It is necessary to strictly observe the rules for storing wooden products.
3. Before using wood materials, they must be treated with special compounds.
4. It is necessary to create conditions under which mold cannot grow.

Below we will analyze each item in more detail.

Drying wood

If you are thinking about using wood as a building or finishing material, you need to start with the simplest thing: proper drying. The less moisture left in the wood, the less it will rot.

There are 4 ways to dry wood:

1. Drying in natural conditions. To do this, boards, logs or beams are placed in a dry, warm and well-ventilated room, where the material dries on its own. This is the longest method: it can take up to 1 year in time.
2. Forced drying. To do this, use hot air, constantly circulating in the room. This is an expensive method (the wood is dried in special chambers), but it is fast and efficient.
3. Waxing. To dry the wood in this way, it is immersed in paraffin and then placed in a kiln for several hours to be fired.
4. Steaming in linseed oil. This is an expensive method, used for small wooden products. To do this, they are placed in a vat of oil and boiled for several hours.

Forced drying methods, although expensive, take much less time. In addition, during forced drying, the material does not deform or crack (which can happen during natural drying).

How is lumber dried? (video)

Compliance with the rules of wood storage

When the material is dried, the next challenge arises: proper storage. The condition of the wood and the degree of susceptibility to fungus and mold directly depend on compliance with the rules.

The main task when storing logs, beams, boards and other products is to prevent an increase in their moisture content, so that later you do not look for answers to the question “why does wood rot?”. To do this, you must follow the following rules:

1. Material should be stored exclusively in above-ground hangars, ideally under natural (sun) light.
2. The room must be dry.
3. Air circulation is required.
4. The tree should not be in direct contact with the ground. It is necessary to stack materials on racks so that they do not pull moisture from the ground. Also, the air space below improves the air circulation in the room.
5. If there is no heating in the hangar, during periods of sudden temperature changes, periodic drying and heating should be carried out in order to prevent the formation of condensate.

Lumber storage example (video)

Coating wood with antiseptics

To understand how to protect a tree from mold and decay (how to impregnate it), you need to know where and for what purposes the product will be used. For internal work, one protective composition is used, for external work, another.

The condition of the wood also matters. One impregnation is used to protect a clean surface, the other is used to disinfect materials already affected by fungus and rot.

Paint is used when it is necessary not only to protect the material, but also to give it a certain color to preserve the style of the interior. For interior work, water-soluble compositions are more suitable, for exterior - paints based on organic solvents.

Antiseptic liquid is used, as a rule, when the wood has already been affected by mold, or it has begun to rot. There are 5 types of antiseptic compositions:

1. Water soluble. These include compositions with a base of zinc chloride, borax, fluorides and boric acid. They dry quickly, are odorless and non-toxic. It is not advisable to use them in rooms with high humidity, since they do not have water-repellent properties.
2. Water repellent. Increase the resistance of wood to moisture penetration. Used for baths, cellars, basements and other rooms with high humidity.
3. Antiseptics on organic solvents. These compositions can be used for both external and internal work. They create a dense protective film on the material, which dries up to 12 hours.
4. Oil antiseptics. They form a thick protective water-repellent film. Ideally protect wood in any, even the most extreme conditions. But, you can apply this tool only on perfectly dried wood. If moisture remains in the material, the oil antiseptic will not allow it to go outside and will create an ideal microclimate for the wood to rot from the inside.
5. Combined (the most expensive). Used for all types of wood, for indoor and outdoor use. In addition to antiseptic properties, they increase fire protection.

Wood preservative is produced by different companies. The following brands have proven themselves well:

• Senezh;
• Neomid;
• Pinotex;
• Vinha.

In addition to modern compositions, there are also folk remedies for protecting wood and removing mold, which you can do yourself:

• resin;
• silicate glue;
• sodium biochromate;

Wood varnishing (video)

Creating conditions under which rotting and mold do not appear

In order not to have to remove mold and fight rotting, you need to create the right conditions for wooden building materials:

1. Hydro and thermal insulation of wooden surfaces that are outside (on the street) or located underground. This will protect the material from temperature extremes, condensation, freezing and absorption of moisture from the soil.
2. If we are talking about interior decoration made of wood, there must be ventilation in the room, which ensures constant air circulation. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the ingress of sunlight and warming up the room.

Even observing all the rules of maintenance, one cannot be 100% sure that the fungus will not appear. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the wood. Especially carefully you need to inspect the corners and areas where moisture can get in and where sunlight does not penetrate.

The modern approach proposes to plan the beds from the boards in combination with the landscape design of the entire garden plot. It is important to know how to treat the boards for the beds in order to protect them from fungus and bacteria. This is necessary to get not only a neat, well-groomed appearance, but also an environmentally friendly crop.

Box after processing before installation

Wood is considered an excellent material for wooden garden fences, as it has a number of positive characteristics:

• practicality in use;
• ease of assembly and installation;
• ergonomics in operation;
• environmental friendliness, which has a positive effect on plants, creating a favorable microclimate;
• the ability to accelerate the process of maturation of garden crops;
• the possibility of growing on a suitable soil substrate, since the bed can be filled with any type of soil;
• convenience in caring for plants;
• external attractiveness of the beds.

But such designs also have disadvantages, which include:

• susceptibility to decay and damage by pests;
• dependence of properties on humidity, change in physical and mechanical properties;
• the influence of atmospheric factors leading to swelling, shrinkage, warping and cracking.

Box before antiseptic

Therefore, to increase the service life, it becomes necessary to use special treatments with minimal damage to health. Measures to protect wood from conditions that destroy it must be taken in the process of constructing beds. Knowing how the boards can be processed, you can get original beds that will decorate the garden plot for a long time.

Folk remedies for processing

A significant advantage of folk remedies over synthetic mixtures is the price, which is much lower.

In terms of ecology, these products are considered harmless and hypoallergenic, which is important for human health.

There are several effective ways to protect wooden buildings from decay:

1. A mixture of propolis and sunflower oil.
2. A solution of copper sulphate.
3. Bituminous mastic.
4. Heat treatment.
5. Firing.

A mixture of propolis and sunflower oil

This tool is made by hand. For cooking, you will need oil and propolis in a ratio of 3: 1. The components must be mixed and, taking a soft sponge, apply to a clean, dry surface of the material. It is important to impregnate the wood well with the composition. The method is the most effective, as it perfectly protects the material from bacteria and fungus. When choosing it, one should also take into account the disadvantages: impregnated wood ignites easily.

Copper vitriol in a package

The consumption rate ranges from 40-80 grams per 1 m2 of surface. The solution is able to penetrate the wood by a maximum of 2 cm and is easily washed out. They can systematically process wooden structures. The disadvantage of using copper sulfate is its insecurity. When heated, it releases toxic compounds that can harm human health.

Bituminous mastic

With its help, you can protect the coating from the crushing action of water, dust, dirt, and also improve the appearance. If you periodically cover wooden structures with mastic, then the service life of the material treated with this agent will increase significantly.

Before starting work, it is better to make sure that the surface is clean, without old traces of varnish, paint. Then apply a thin layer of mastic, this will reduce the drying time, as well as increase the quality of the coating. Depending on the task, up to 3 layers may be required. After the procedure, the treated surface can be polished using a cloth.

Bituminous mastic

heat treatment

This method is considered classical and involves the processing of structures using dry steam. It is possible to eliminate absolutely the entire fungus only by performing a complete sterilization of the material. This is possible when the material is heated through its entire thickness to temperatures that are critical for bacteria - over 70 degrees Celsius. To do this, it is enough to warm it up at a temperature of 71 degrees Celsius for 2-4 hours. To carry out such a procedure, you need to have special drying chambers.

Firing

This method allows you to protect the tree, as well as make it suitable for use in the garden without the use of an antiseptic. Processing consists in firing wood using a gas burner.

Impregnation preparation

Wood has been used as a building material since ancient times. It is still the most common eco-friendly material. Wood products have a pleasant, natural smell and beautiful color. But natural materials can suffer from exposure to moisture and microorganisms. One of the main enemies of wooden structures is fungi that lead to decay. Therefore, it is important to timely treat wood from decay and moisture.

Rotting Prevention

Prior to the start of construction, a number of preventive measures are required. The moisture content of wood varies depending on the season and weather conditions. Wooden construction blanks must be dried in natural conditions during the year. The tree has the ability to absorb moisture from the environment and swell with its high content. At high temperatures, the wood dries out.

Such vibrations lead to the formation of cracks, and the wooden structure may suffer. It is necessary to coat the wood with compounds that reduce the absorption of moisture, but allow the wood to "breathe" . There are methods to protect wood from decay, preventing decomposition processes and the negative effects of moisture:

1. Room waterproofing.
2. Compliance with humidity and temperature conditions during storage.
3. Regular inspections of buildings and products for damage by fungus and pests.

Fungal infection occurs due to violations of the conditions of transportation and storage. Factors contributing to the reproduction of microorganisms:

If a fungus is detected, it is necessary to take a sample to determine the density and moisture content of the wood and treat the wood from decay. Special tools will help slow down the decomposition process. Otherwise, the structure will rot, eventually take on an unsightly appearance and completely collapse.

Antiseptics

You can prevent the reproduction of fungi and mold with the help of antiseptics. They inhibit the development of microorganisms. When choosing means, it is important to consider that some of them can cause considerable damage to people and animals. You should also pay attention to the anti-corrosion properties and the effect of antiseptics. Impregnation for wood from moisture and decay can be divided into 4 groups:

Folk recipes

You can prepare an effective means of protection, impregnate the tree from decay and moisture with the help of folk remedies. If the decay process has not yet managed to cover a large area, Folk recipes will help eliminate further destruction:

• Liquid glass (silicate glue). Dilute the glue in water, apply the solution with a brush to the areas where rotting was localized. As a result of processing, a dense layer of whitish-colored glue remains on the surface of the structure. This method is the easiest.
• Vinegar and soda. Treat the affected areas with soda, then spray with acetic acid using a spray bottle.
• Sulfuric acid and potassium bichromate. Mix potassium dichromate in equal parts with sulfuric acid. Saturate the wood outside with the solution.
• Copper vitriol. Dissolve 100 g of powder in 10 liters of water and apply the solution to the dried wood.
• Resin. Hot resin can be used for external processing. Bring the resin to a boil and apply to the dried wood. For colored products, the product is not suitable, because it paints the surface in a dark tone.
• Salt and boric acid. Salt (1 kg) and boric acid (50 g) stir in boiling water (5 l). Coat the wooden surface several times with a break of 2 hours, allowing the product to absorb well and dry.

Processing by the Finnish method

The Finnish method of wood processing will require salt, water, iron sulfate, slaked lime, flour. Mix the ingredients thoroughly until smooth. Most of the mixture should be water and flour. Heat the mixture over low heat and immediately apply it to the wooden surface. This composition is not washed off with water and stays on the wood for a long time.

Various methods are used to treat wood from decay and moisture with an antiseptic. The most efficient is full immersion of building materials in a container with active components. But this is an expensive pleasure. Impregnation in autoclaves is based on the action of high pressure, which ensures deep penetration of the composition into the wood.

Most antiseptics are conveniently applied with a roller, brush or spray gun.

Only a dry surface that has not previously been coated with anything should be treated, otherwise the product will not be absorbed. First, they impregnate places that have already been affected by decay. Processing should be carried out in warm, dry weather at 20-25 degrees above zero. At temperatures below 5 degrees, impregnation treatment will not be beneficial.

Wood today, as before, is considered one of the most durable and environmentally friendly materials, which is widely used in construction and repair work. Due to its decorative effect, many people want to finish surfaces with it.

Wood is one of the most durable and environmentally friendly materials, which is widely used in construction and repair work.

But, as a rule, wood is considered a living material, therefore, it needs mandatory processing, which will prevent rotting and damage to the surface. There are two types of wood processing from decay today: folk and synthetic.

Wood processing by folk methods

Let's start with processing folk remedies. Such methods have many advantages over synthetic compounds. Firstly, such treatment is much cheaper, and secondly, absolutely all folk remedies are environmentally harmless and hypoallergenic, which is very important for human health. Now let's take a closer look at some of the most effective ways to treat wood from decay:

Copper sulfate heals and disinfects cracks in the roots of branches and trunks.

1. Wood treatment with a mixture of propolis and ordinary sunflower oil. For this, oil and propolis are taken in a ratio of approximately 3: 1. Everything is thoroughly mixed and applied to dry wood previously cleaned of dust with a soft sponge. It is necessary to saturate the tree with this composition. The method is good in that it is the strongest in protection against rot and microorganisms. But there is a big drawback in this method. Soaked wood will ignite very quickly. Therefore, learn this and consider whether it is advisable to use this impregnation in your particular case.
2. Impregnation with a solution of copper sulfate. For this purpose, a ready-made solution of copper sulfate is bought, thoroughly mixed. After that, a soft sponge or cloth is dipped into it, with which the clean, dry wood is impregnated. This is an ideal option for a round log, since in material terms it is not too expensive, and its efficiency is high. With a fairly strong impregnation, the tree will last a long time without causing any inconvenience. The only negative is the drying time. The tree impregnated in this way must be thoroughly dried in the open air, but so that the sun's rays do not fall on it. It is advisable to make a canopy specifically for this purpose. A tree can dry from a week to a month - the longer, the better.
3. Another option is to use hot bitumen for wood processing. This is a very good method in terms of efficiency, but in terms of ecology, it is not completely safe. After all, as you know, bitumen tends to release some of the harmful substances in a state of heating. Therefore, it is not always recommended to use it.
4. Automobile oil is also not a completely clean environmental material, but it is widely used for wood processing. Oil perfectly protects against mold, rot and bark beetles, but will not prevent fire, but will make it even faster and stronger. Therefore, it is not always possible to use this tool.

Processing by the Finnish method

Car oil is excellent protection against mold, rot and bark beetles.

A separate method of wood processing is processing by the Finnish method. It consists in the use of flour, salt, iron sulfate, water and dry slaked lime. The method is harmless, but most often it is advisable to use it for processing wood for fences and for roofing. The composition is selected in such a way that it lasts for a long time and is not quickly washed out with water.

To prepare the mixture, the components are mixed so that a paste is obtained in the form of sour cream. And the main part of it consists of water and flour. When you have thoroughly mixed everything, heat the mixture over low heat, and then apply to the wood while still warm in two layers. In this case, only after complete absorption and drying of the first layer, the second is applied.

So, the main folk methods for processing wood from decay are considered. But there are also non-natural synthetic products that are also widely used. They are also called building antiseptics. It cannot be said that all of them are equally harmful or effective. Therefore, it is advisable to understand them in more detail.

Types of water-soluble antiseptics

Antiseptics are best used if the tree has already rotted.

The first type of wood antiseptics are water-soluble antiseptics. They perfectly protect the tree in conditions of its constant contact with water, but are also easily washed out. Therefore, periodic processing of wood by such methods is required. These substances are commonly referred to as:

1. Ammonium and sodium silicofluorides. They are white, odorless powders that become transparent on contact with water. Therefore, impregnation with their help must be carried out very carefully so that the compositions completely penetrate into all fibers. Ammonium silicofluoride, in addition to protection against fungus, also provides wood with additional fire resistance, which is very important in modern conditions.
2. Sodium fluoride is a very strong antiseptic. It is also a white, odorless powder. It is easily washed out with water, so a tree treated with this method must undergo such treatments periodically. But such a substance has a big plus: unlike the above silicofluorides, this substance does not cause corrosion of the metal that may be in the tree.
3. Various imported substances, which are based on mixtures such as zinc, chlorine, sodium, potassium borax and many others. Such mixtures are much more expensive, but protect the tree to a greater extent. But in terms of ecology for residential premises, it is not recommended to use them, since they are capable of releasing toxic substances.

Pastes, organic and oil antiseptics

In addition to the described groups of antiseptics, it is also customary to distinguish between antiseptics in the form of a paste, oily and organic antiseptics. In order to better understand them and choose the most suitable substance, we will consider each of these groups in more detail.

1. Treatment of wood from decay with means in the form of pastes. These substances are mixtures of water-soluble silicofluoride antiseptics and binders. Due to this, resistance to moisture is achieved, therefore, pastes are widely used for processing protruding external wooden structures. But even pasta tends to wash out over time. It requires less frequent application to wood than fluorides and silicofluorides, but for better protection of wood structures treated with this method, it is recommended to additionally cover it with a special building waterproofing film.
2. The water-soluble group of antiseptics usually includes two main types of solutions: these are solutions of pentachlorophenol (PL) and solutions of copper oil (NML). Both solutions are light, but have an extremely high degree of toxicity. Antiseptics such as NML are the most toxic. Because of this, working with them requires special care. Moreover, this type of solution stains the tree green, which can significantly change its appearance. This antiseptic is used only in certain production cases. Substances such as PL are also very toxic. In its own way, these are even catalysts for oil antiseptics, which are not able to protect wood in all cases. The use of these solutions is advisable when the wood must be urgently processed. Again, it is not recommended to use it for domestic purposes.
3. And finally, another group - oil-type antiseptics. It is customary to include all technical oils. Of course, they are also toxic. But still, as a rule, they have the best antiseptic properties: they are not washed out with water, they protect wood from almost all types of fungi for a long time, they have a pungent odor and a dark brown color.

Debating building materials and wood products is easier to prevent than to restore damaged products. Of all the proposed means, it is important to choose what can be used to treat wood from decay with maximum effect.

Rotting wood is easier to prevent than to repair later.

How to prevent wood decay

The most popular methods are the application of protective and antiseptic compounds. After choosing a method and means in order to process wood from decay, you will need the following tools:

The antiseptic composition is applied with a spray gun.

1. Roller or brush.
2. A container with a solution for immersing small wooden parts.
3. Spray.
4. Hacksaw or scraper.

The main pest of wood is mold, with which the process of decomposition of building materials begins.

Therefore, you need to be aware of where this evil comes from, how it spreads and familiarize yourself with the measures for its extermination.

A fertile environment for the occurrence of decay processes:

• free air access;
• humidity of the surrounding space from 80 to 100%;
• plus temperature 0-50°С;
• humidity of building materials made of wood from 15% to 20%.

It is possible to prevent the decomposition of wood even in the process of manufacturing and storing materials for the production of structural elements of construction. Since a freshly cut tree has a moisture content of 60% to 80%, it simply needs to be dried naturally, that is, let it lie down for at least a year.

Finished wooden structures are also exposed to negative natural impacts, these are:

Drying wood naturally can prevent rotting.

• insufficient ventilation;
• temperature difference;
• excess moisture;
• freezing;
• condensate.

All this must be prevented by the following measures:

• waterproof roofing;
• applying a protective layer of paint or varnish;
• providing the necessary waterproofing;
• placing the heat-insulating layer closer to the cold (outer), and the vapor barrier layer near the warm (inner) surface.

Wooden walls can be sheathed with boards and this will protect them from rotting. Here, more attention should be paid to the end cuts, since it is they that form the weakest points.

All wooden elements of building structures need an annual spring inspection. This will help to detect early signs of spoilage, such as deterioration in appearance, deformation and an unpleasant odor.

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Two ways to get rid of fungus

The antiseptic is applied with a brush.

Decay greatly reduces the density and hardness of wood, which affects the ability of wooden elements to cope with their load-bearing function. If, for example, putrefactive areas appeared on the crown crowns, and at the same time the window openings were warped or the walls moved, then this means that the crowns need to be changed or the foci of decay removed.

It all depends on how large the degree of damage and areas of spread of putrefactive bacteria. You can localize, that is, remove the finishing material and remove the damaged wood with a scraper, brush or hacksaw, and then treat the affected area with an antiseptic.

In everyday life, two methods of disinfection are used:

1. The surface method is the application of a special substance with a sprayer.
2. Diffusion reception - coating with antiseptic paste. It includes glue, antiseptic and an additional substance.

Bituminous paste:

Remedies for fungus can be in the form of liquids or pastes.

• green oil;
• peat powder;
• oil product;
• sodium fluoride.

silica paste:

• sodium silicate;
• tar;
• fluorosilicates.

Extract pastes based on sodium fluoride find their application. The disinfecting process occurs when the moisture content of the wood increases by more than 40%. At this moment, the substance actively penetrates into the product, and the diffusion process stops when the humidity decreases.

To prevent infection of unspoiled wooden building materials, potassium dichromate (5%) based on sulfuric acid (5%) is used. It is applied both to wood and to the surrounding soil up to 0.5 m deep. Potassium dichromate water is an effective agent for treating beams.

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Processing wood from decay

When using stronger disinfecting methods, it must be remembered that the higher their biocidal properties, the greater the harmful effect on human health.

The antiseptic "Wood Doctor" will help if the infection has already occurred.

But modern science does not stand still, and universal antiseptic substances with a relatively harmless effect have been obtained in chemical laboratories. Such products are prepared on the basis of high-molecular compounds, and they are able to maintain the strength and density of wood for a long time, preventing rotting and mold. This ability is based on a polymer base that prevents washing out of protective preparations for many decades. In this case, the destruction of harmful organisms occurs due to the content of tin, chromium and such an element as zinc.

An excellent drug to prevent the biological destruction of wood is "Bicidol", it is harmless to health. In the event that the color of the tree does not matter, you can use "Bicidol-100", since after its application the wood acquires a greenish tint. You can treat the tree from decay and preserve the natural color of the product with "Bicidol-200". Diluted in drying oil, it performs both protective and antiseptic action.

Pinotex will help protect the wood from rotting.

The Finnish-made drug "Pinotex" has a domestic counterpart called "Vuprtek". With it, you can protect the tree from decay and give it many shades. But it is only suitable for completely clean material, without any traces of mold.

If the fungal infection has already occurred, you can treat the wood with DL-3 (antiseptic "Wood Doctor"). It exists in several versions:

• DL-1 - for fresh and clean wood, protects against rot, mold, bugs;
• DL-2 - destroys harmful organisms and protects wood from decay;
• DL-3 - the strongest antiseptic, stops the decay of wood and expels insects.

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Why you should not treat wood with disinfectants

There are certain building indicators developed by German specialists that indicate the conditions for refusing to use biocidal agents.

These conditions include:

• wide roof overhang;
• adequate ventilation in the basement.

In addition, all heartwood types are divided into groups:

1. Most wear resistant.
2. Wear resistant.
3. Medium wear resistant.
4. Weakly resistant.
5. Unstable.

In Russian construction, the following breeds are used:

• 1st class - mountain ash, teak (can be used without processing for pillars intended for concreting and burying);
• 2nd class - cedar, oak (bypassing processing, goes to the construction of structures subject to natural influences - stairs, balconies, etc.);
• 3rd class - larch, pine (used in areas with moisture, without contact with the ground - windows, doors, stairs);
• 4th class - beech, fir, spruce (without chemical treatment, suitable for the construction of internal dry structures).

But it is not always possible to do without chemistry when working with wood, since treating a tree means protecting it from decay.