There was also a simpler option - made from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that sandwich pipes for chimneys have appeared.

What are the advantages

Why were sandwich pipes able to quickly conquer the market? Simplicity of design, consisting of an outer and an inner pipe, filled with mineral wool inside for thermal insulation. Special fasteners at the end make installation easy, no matter whether it is through the roof or the wall. For production this is used reliable material like steel. If you know all the details, or even better, watch the video instructions, then assembling such a system with your own hands will not be a problem. But you must strictly adhere to the installation instructions and fire safety to avoid problems in the future.

The advantages of sandwich pipes include:

It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can cause the loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first one pays off with a long service life, then the second one depends only on who will do the installation.

Important to know

Before starting the installation, you should familiarize yourself with some subtleties. For example, it is important to know what large area the structure will be held indoors, the less heat loss there will be. When created detailed diagram, consider the fact that even horizontal sections must be up to one meter. Please note that contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if on the way to place the chimney there are wooden parts, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between fastenings should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or insert with a door through which inspection and cleaning of soot will be possible. Of course, installing a sandwich chimney is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

In the finished building, a chimney is installed through a wall made of sandwich pipes. To do this, measures are taken to protect the wall from high temperature chimney. It’s good if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in wooden house You can’t do without insulating materials. And it doesn’t matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you will have to do it. These are the fire safety standards for log houses.

Already at the stage of purchasing pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations on hand. A short chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return indoors, and if it is too long, this will speed up the process of fuel combustion and heat will escape into the atmosphere. The optimal length of the system is considered to be in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fasteners.

It's clear that ideal option- this is the passage of a pipe through a roof or wall, and it does not matter whether it is taken into account by the building design. This guarantees your safety. But if it doesn’t work out, then we look for an area on the wall where there are no other technological designs. Experts advise to retreat at least 40 cm from any communication, and if this is not possible, then provide additional insulation.

Different walls have their own installation secrets

If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger in diameter than the pipe itself. Round shape A special drill will help create holes. And now, in order:

1. First method: you will need several insulated pipes larger diameter than a chimney, inserted alternately into each other;
2. The second option: we run the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.

Passing through a brick or twin block wall is done like this. First, markings are made taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problem, place a special metal frame. The free space near the pipe must be filled with fireproof material and shields must be installed to cover the passage. The main difficulty is just getting through the wall, and then assembling the structure is quite simple. Have you collected it? We fix it on the wall.

It is clear that when they mount experienced craftsmen, then there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.

Step-by-step installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through a wall: video instructions

In the foreseeable past, no one would have thought that installing chimneys would be within the capabilities of everyone. And it’s clear why this is so. Previously, only a stove maker knew how to correctly create a structure from bricks of the required shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were highly valued.

How to properly install a chimney made of sandwich pipes through a wall

In order to create the maximum comfortable conditions in this corner, in addition to comfort, you should take care of safety and ease of installation.

For this purpose they were invented chimneys made of sandwich pipes. Thanks to their special design, combustion products in the form of ash and soot do not settle on the walls of the pipes, which additionally provides protection against accidental fire.

What is a sandwich pipe?

Sandwich pipe- this is a special smoke channel made in the form of two interconnected metal pipes that differ in diameter. In this case, a pipe of smaller diameter is located inside a larger one, and free space between them, using high pressure, it is filled with a special fireproof material - heat-resistant basalt fiber.

The chimney itself can be imagined as a construction kit, which is assembled from special elements - tees, clamps and bends.

Ease of assembly is ensured by well-thought-out design details. Each element has different sizes threads on both sides, thanks to which the parts are assembled according to the principle of sockets in sewer pipes. This connection ensures the pipes are completely sealed. To further strengthen the connected sections, clamps are used.

How to assemble a sandwich pipe correctly?

To begin with, the two-layer pipe is securely attached to the nozzle of the sauna stove using a starting cone.

Chimney in a sauna stove– most simple design, because it has no turns or additions. In most cases, this is a straight pipe coming from the stove and going through the ceiling to the street.

Step-by-step installation of a sandwich chimney in a bathhouse

Despite the fact that installing a chimney from sandwich pipes with your own hands is a very simple task, feasible for a person who has nothing to do with construction, you still need to pay attention to the basic subtleties of the installation. In this article we will consider installation of a chimney through a wall.

1. Installation occurs in the upward direction, from the stove to the roof. When assembling a chimney, the narrowed end of the pipe is inserted into the previous, wider one.
2. The sandwich pipe is never installed directly to the furnace. First of all, it is better to install a single-wall stainless steel pipe. This will allow you to get more heat output, while protecting other elements of the stove from overheating.
3. Due to the absence of soot accumulation on the walls of the chimney, condensation is easily removed from it. For this, additional tees are installed.

The tees can be easily moved around the structure using special skids. To create such a structure, you need to disassemble the chimney, securing the fittings for the brackets, then assemble the outer bracket and attach several corners to it.

• The wall should be covered with a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick, and asbestos should be attached to the plywood with screws. The next layer is galvanized steel with dimensions of 120*200 mm, also secured with screws. Make a square recess in the steel sheet for the pipe outlet, and insert the adapter into it. Next, use a special anti-corrosion varnish to coat the bracket.
• When installing the chimney, remember to leave some free space between the wall and the pipe, the so-called concession.

The maximum length of the chimney, starting from the grate and ending with the deflector, can reach 5-6 meters. At the pipe joints, it is necessary to use a sealing material with heat-resistant properties (withstanding temperatures up to 1000⁰C). At the end of installation, it is imperative to clean the structure from the protective film.

To further clean the chimney from soot, a revision is provided in the pipe body - a tee with a door on the side. It cuts directly into the pipe.

For reliable support of the chimney, you can make your own bracket from steel corners 30x50 mm. For this you will need a drill with an angle grinder and M10 bolts. Instead of bolting, the bracket frame can be held together using electric welding.

Conclusion

The most labor-intensive stage in the process of installing a chimney made from sandwich pipes is drilling holes in the wall and sheathing the structure with insulating materials. And then, having prepared required material and tools, simply follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

How to install a chimney from sandwich pipes

IN recent years More and more chimneys are being made from sandwich pipes. The point is a relatively low price, long service life, and quite attractive appearance. It is also important that it is possible self-installation sandwich chimney. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Painted to match roofing option

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they?

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multi-layer nature: there are two layers of metal, between which there is insulation. This structure solves many problems that were inherent simple chimney from a metal pipe. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures, and hard radiation does not emit from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created indoors. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensation that forms when the pipe is brought outside. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer at such a high temperature, it is easier to make the chimney pass through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation.

What materials are they made from?

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Perhaps for the removal of combustion products from a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. They are unsuitable for more serious heating devices - at high temperatures, zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, and the chimney becomes unusable.

Sandwich pipes for high-temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a small content of alloying metals to highly alloyed heat-resistant ones. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope of application will be different, and so will the price.

As is clear from the table, different brands stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, more heat-resistant and expensive - for the inner casing. This is necessary to reduce the cost of products, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options- the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Externally, these products are inferior to stainless steel, but they serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

There is insulation between two layers of metal. Most often this is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation varies from 30 to 100 mm:

• With 30 mm thick insulation, the flue gas temperature should not exceed 250°C. Such temperatures are only given gas boilers small and medium power.
• A 50 mm insulation layer can withstand temperatures up to 400°C. Scope of application - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-burning, provided that the chimney is vented to the street (through the wall).
• A 100 mm layer of stone wool can withstand temperatures up to 850°C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, you need to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can operate. Not every stone wool can withstand heating up to 850°C, but only some special brands. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.

A set of elements from which a sandwich chimney of any configuration is assembled

Connection types

Sandwich chimney elements can be connected to each other in two ways: with sockets and corrugated edges. A socket connection requires a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this implementation it is achieved high degree chimney tightness. This type Sandwich pipes are well suited for gas boilers where it is important to prevent leaks. There is also a minus: installation requires high precision.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows you to assemble the chimney without problems. The disadvantage of this solution is that to ensure tightness, a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required, and it costs a lot.

Features of sandwich pipes for chimneys

It is also worth paying attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so that alloyed metals do not burn out). This type of connection is necessary for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, you can use a seam connection.

Installation methods

There are two ways to vent the chimney outside. The first is to run the pipe through the wall, and then along external wall raise to the required level. The second is up, through the ceiling and roof. Both are imperfect.

If the chimney is outdoors, condensation actively forms in it due to temperature changes. Therefore, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed in the lower part of the chimney. This unit allows you to maintain the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed and the condensate is drained. Also, soot periodically gets knocked off without any problems - you can run a special chimney brush through the cleaning hole.

Approximate diagram of the passage of a chimney pipe through a wall and roof

If the chimney will be discharged through the roof, several passage units will be needed - according to the number of ceilings. If the house is one-story, you will need one passage through the ceiling, and a second through the roof. You will also need a flash master or an apron for round pipe made of galvanized steel.

Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one passage unit - through the wall. But it will be necessary to attach it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are flammable (wooden house or frame), the walls in mandatory protected by a non-flammable screen.

By smoke or condensation

Types of sandwich pipe assembly

As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to one another. If the wider end is turned upward (in the figure on the right), the assembly is called “condensate”. With this installation method, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that if the joints are not properly sealed, smoke can leak into microcracks. This type of sandwich chimney installation is used when the pipe is routed through a wall. This is where the free drainage of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not scary - they are not critical on the street.

If the narrower edge is turned upward, the second element is put on top of it with the wider part. This type of assembly is called “by smoke” (in the picture on the left). In this case, the condensate flowing down the wall may leak through an insufficiently sealed joint. But the smoke passes freely. This type assembly is used if the pipe goes indoors (out through the roof). Condensate flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, if the joints are well sealed, condensation will not leak out.

In order for the connection of the sandwich chimney modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant and then tightened with a clamp.

Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before you go to the store, you need to know the required chimney diameter, pipe height, and those additional elements that will be needed.

Chimney diameter

When choosing the diameter of a sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe. If your outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the internal diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but definitely not smaller, and the narrowing cannot be done along the entire length of the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly at the boiler outlet, and then the working size comes next.

If you don’t have a boiler yet, but you know its power, you can choose a chimney based on these data:

• boiler power up to 3.5 kW - internal diameter of the sandwich - 80 mm;
• from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - at least 95 mm;
• more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.

But it’s better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on the chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider to improve draft.

Installation of a sandwich chimney begins with determining the diameter

Pipe height

The height of the chimney above the roof surface depends on the location of its outlet, but at the same time its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case, bring the pipe to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is higher than 5 m, then the pipe should rise above roofing material to the following height:

• Should rise 50 cm above the ridge if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
• If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the ridge level, but the angle should be no more than 10° (see figure).
• If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height can be at the same level as the ridge element or higher.

Under such conditions, normal traction is ensured. The smoke will go away normally regardless of weather conditions. To prevent leaves from getting into the chimney, special umbrellas, weather vanes are installed, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve draft.

Sandwich chimney pipe height

If it is not possible to bring the pipe to such a height, they install a smoke exhauster - a forced draft is obtained. A fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, forced exhaust saves the situation.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through a wall

When venting a chimney through a wall, there are two ways. The first option (pictured on the left) is to raise it in the room closer to the ceiling and take it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the smoke pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney ends up on the street.

How can a sandwich chimney be routed through a wall?

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means, under equal conditions, the traction will be better. Also, with this structure there is less chance of soot plugs forming.

If the outlet of the smoke pipe is not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation diagram changes slightly - a 90° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then the same as in other diagrams.

The stove itself is placed on a non-flammable base, and the wall behind the stove is covered with a non-flammable screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal to the wall. It can be mounted on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be a layer of air between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall will be safe. The second option is to place a heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

Preparing a site for installing a furnace and installing polyurethane foam into the wall with a piece of pipe

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm on all sides, and to combustible walls - 450 mm. It turns out to be a solid hole, especially if we talk about walls made of flammable materials. There is one way to reduce the size of the opening for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the standards of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall

The opening can be round or square, as long as it is maintained fire safety standards. Square holes It’s easier to make and sheathe, that’s why they are made more often.

This is what a pipe passage through a wall, sealed with a sheet of metal, looks like

A passage unit - a box made of non-combustible material - is inserted into this hole. The sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it and fixed in the center. All gaps are filled with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. This is usually a sheet of metal.

A passage unit is inserted from the side of the room. IN in this case it is made of mineralite, but it could also be metal

One important point: the chimney must be designed so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and serviceable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will support the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.

A similar structure can be welded from profile pipe small section 25*25 mm or 25*40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that goes through the wall. At the bottom there is a removable glass in which condensation accumulates. Some models have a fitting at the bottom with a small tap. This is even more convenient - you don’t need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, drain it into some container (it is very toxic, so there is no need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Next, the tube is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will clearly be more than 3 m, it is possible that the height of the chimney should be slightly lower than the ridge - no lower than 10° relative to the horizontal line drawn from the level of the ridge.

It is advisable to install the chimney above the ridge

But since this house is located in a low area; to ensure traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was attached to the wall with stainless steel clamps, in increments of a little more than a meter. The roof is equipped with guy wires made of steel rods with a diameter of 6 mm. To install guy wires, there are special clamps “with ears” to which the guy wires are attached.

Attaching guy wires to a chimney from sandwich tubes

Another important point that many people forget: at the place where the pipe is installed, a snow retention section must be installed on the roof, otherwise in the spring the pipe may be blown away by snow (if the pipe is not routed towards the gable, as in the photo).

How to install a chimney through the roof

When venting a chimney from sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to arrange it so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the combustible element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the combustible element is protected by insulation. To meet this requirement, the pipe often has to be displaced. This is done using two 45° angles.

Displacement of the pipe to pass through the ceiling

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins metal pipe without insulation. In the photo above it is black. After this, an adapter is placed on the sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire standards - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected thermal insulation material. Having cut a hole, its edges are covered with non-flammable heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (it is nailed or secured with wood screws).

The gray material around the perimeter of the hole is mineralite

The sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. You can’t fix it rigidly, you can only give it direction by installing several bars that will hold it, but it can move up/down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay or granulated foam glass. Previously, sand was still poured in, but sooner or later, it all spilled out through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. WITH front side all this “beauty” is covered with a stainless steel sheet, under which a non-combustible material is placed (between it and the ceiling). Previously, it was an asbestos sheet, but since asbestos is recognized as a carcinogen, mineral wool cardboard began to be used.

There is another option. Trim the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-pass assembly. It immediately contains both a box and a decorative stainless screen.

Ready-made ceiling passage assembly (one of the options)

Having brought the pipe into the attic, make a hole in roofing pie. All films in the passage area (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. This way the damage is minimal. The exposed sheathing is cut so that it is at least 13 cm from the pipe.

How to bring a chimney through the roof - passage of the ceiling and roof

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In a good way, you need to cut them according to the standard, and cover them with the same mineralite. The result should be something similar to the following photo.

Correct passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof

Master flash for a sandwich chimney - rubber cap with a flexible “skirt”

The joint between rubber and pipe is sealed with heat-resistant sealant. The roof surface under the “skirt” is also coated with sealant.

Pipe-mounted master flash

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands: into the wall, through the roof

For self-installation of a sandwich chimney to be correct and safe, you need to know the rules and fire safety standards. Read the article on how to remove a sandwich pipe through a wall or roof.

Many questions and problems arise at the moment when it is necessary to make a passage chimney through the wall.

Collapse

When designing this stage of work, a large number of factors should be taken into account, including:

• Wall structure;
• Materials used;
• Pipe exit location;
• Diameter of the chimney opening.

Diagram of the pipe exit from the furnace through the wall

Before you figure out how to remove the chimney through a wooden or concrete wall, you should carefully study the pipe outlet diagram from the furnace.

Below is a diagram of the output of a double-walled chimney through the wall:

Options for venting the chimney through the wall

What chimneys can be routed through the wall?

Black steel or a stainless steel alloy is usually used as a building material, since this metal is most protected from destructive effects hazardous factors and smoke components.

DO NOT USE plastic or PVC pipes. The pipe will not be able to withstand the load, and may also be damaged during installation or exposure to environmental factors.

Calculations and installation rules

Installation rules imply careful consideration of all stages of future work:

• You should make sure that the pipe itself will not come into contact with any flammable materials, which, under the influence of high temperatures, may begin to smolder and release toxic fumes.
• When installing the system directly externally, it is necessary to remember the deflection angles, which will act as active guides for smoke removal. The chimney pipe should not be located parallel to the wall of the house, since in this case smoke stasis will occur - it simply will not be removed from the system.
• Special tees must be installed in the lower and side parts of the pipe, which will be used as a place to install mechanisms for condensate drainage. If this step is not completed, then moisture when lighting a fireplace or stove will simply enter the firebox and extinguish the flame. All this will significantly complicate the kindling process!
• The upper part of the pipe should rise above the edge of the roof to ensure that smoke and soot are blown away in an area of ​​​​more rarefied air. Typically, such zones are formed at a distance of 15-25 cm from the roof sheet.

How to install a chimney?

The chimney installation process is divided into several main stages, which consist of:

• Preparatory work;
• Installation of fastening elements;
• The actual installation of the chimney.

General stages of work:

1. Passage through concrete/brick wall. Concrete and brick walls They are the most convenient material that does not require additional processing. It is recommended to additionally putty the place where the hole was created in order to eliminate the possibility of rapid degradation of the wall of the room.
   

2. Passage through wooden wall

   When working with wooden surfaces should be carefully protected from overheating. Hot air passes through the pipe, which can cause materials to unintentionally ignite.

   Ceramic mixtures, heat-resistant insulating materials, and even glass wool are often used as insulating materials. You should not skimp on thermal insulation, as the consequences can be very sad!

   

   The nuances of installing the passage of the chimney through a wooden wall

   
   

   Examples ready installation in the photo:

   

   

   

   Final work and system check

   After completing all stages of work, you should carefully test the chimney to ensure that the manipulations were performed correctly. Before starting a test fire, you should place your hand in the firebox and make sure that there is air draft. In order to increase skin sensitivity, you can pre-moisten them in water.

   If you feel a breath of air, you can light the flame. With a properly installed chimney, there will be no clouds of smoke or smoke in the room. bad smell. Modern smoke and fume exhaust systems are designed to eliminate minor installation errors, so the system is more likely to work properly.

   Advantages and Disadvantages

   The main advantages of this method:

   • smaller volume construction work,
   • less quantity required building materials,
   • no need to deform several walls and surfaces of the house.

   Despite the large number positive aspects such a layout, it is worth remembering large number disadvantages:

   • One of the main ones is the presence of a certain number of bends, which significantly slow down the speed of air flow, which negatively affects the draft in the furnace. Lack of traction can result in a decrease in combustion intensity, the formation of a mass of ash and incomplete combustion of the fuel.
   • As a result of long-term operation of the furnace, sediment appears on the pipe, which must be cleaned. If a pipe is installed without bends, the process is simplified - not only chemical methods, but also mechanical, which consists of using a weighted weight. A stove with a chimney through the wall cannot be cleaned in this way. If there is a long-term lack of maintenance, it may even be necessary to dismantle the system to replace the chimney.

   You need to weigh the pros and cons in advance to decide which option suits you best.

   Conclusion

   There is nothing complicated or problematic about bringing the pipe from the stove through the wall with your own hands. Understanding how a chimney works and carefully following the instructions will help you do all the work properly. Be sure that the result will not disappoint you!

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A stove pipe with an outlet through the wall is an essential element of any heating apparatus. But not many people think at the construction stage, where it will take place, and how to arrange it correctly. And after building a house, it is not always easy to build a structure for removing smoke. The article will tell you how the pipe should pass through the wall.

When placing a chimney inside a wall, you can hide unnecessary communications; this is a more correct structure, but outdoor installation The system has many positive aspects:

• Higher fire safety. Sometimes the soot accumulated in the pipe ignites, usually at a temperature (+1200ºC). Only ceramics can withstand such heat. If a pipe embedded in a wall heats up to this temperature, a fire is most likely inevitable. Given the same situation with the external structure, the consequences will not be so catastrophic.
• No smoke. Over time, the smoke and gas exhaust system becomes unusable and smoke begins to seep through the cracks and then enter the room, which can be avoided by placing the channel outside.
• Useful space is saved. When the chimney is located inside, it will occupy some living space.
• Installation can be carried out after completion of construction.
• There is no need to interfere with the integrity of the roof covering.
• To improve traction, it is possible to extend the pipe to a greater height.

There are also a number of disadvantages of such a structure.

These include:

• Quite a high windage at a considerable height.
• The need to use additional fastening material.
• It is necessary to properly insulate the pipes.
• High heat loss.
• Sometimes the type of chimney does not match the style of the building.

Chimney installation rules

It is necessary to remove combustion products from the furnace for several reasons.

Chief among them:

• Life and health of people.
• Efficient operation of the furnace or boiler.

Advice: It is necessary to properly organize the withdrawal carbon monoxide, poisoning with it can even lead to death.

• Any fuel does not burn without access to oxygen, which enters through the smoke channel.

There are several rules for installing chimneys:

• There should be no communications where the channel passes.
• The areas where the chimney passes through the wall are covered with a protective casing or plastered after first filling the space with heat-insulating material.
• The chimney fixation is installed in increments of 60 millimeters.
• This design usually uses dual-circuit systems that are better protected from mechanical stress. In this case, it is necessary to install a valve that allows you to adjust the draft.

What is needed to install an external chimney

To install a chimney you will need:

• Bulgarian.
• Electric drill with set different diameters drills
• Riveter.
• The sealant is heat-resistant.
• Aluminum tape.
• Clamps for fixing the outlet pipe.
• Corners.

The main elements for installing an external chimney are shown in the photo.

An external smoke exhaust pipe is installed for:

Creating a chimney system in a wooden house is a more responsible and serious task than installing chimneys in brick buildings. Too much needs to be thought through so that the system not only functions correctly (has good traction), but also is as tight and safe as possible, so that there is no risk of fire.

There are several options to solve this problem. Below we will consider the most basic of them.

Which chimney is suitable for a wooden building?

For wooden buildings You can use any type of chimney: there are no restrictions in this regard, the only caveat is the highest quality implementation. The most popular are chimneys made of stainless steel, ceramics and brick.

You need to immediately make a reservation about a brick chimney: such pipes are highly susceptible to damage from condensation. Therefore, it is strictly not recommended to install them without preliminary planning of the insulation system, without a condensate drain and without a liner inside. In addition, brick pipes become clogged the fastest: due to porous surface the brick itself and the mortar between it, as well as because of the gaps between the bricks. As a result, such systems need to be cleaned more often, and in addition it is more difficult to do (than cleaning a chimney with a smooth wall surface).

If you need to save money, then stainless steel is the cheapest and fastest to install. Steel pipes They are much less exposed to moisture, become dirty more slowly (since their walls are smooth) and are easier to clean.

Ceramic is used less frequently: it is both a more expensive and more difficult to install option. However ceramic pipes can last longer than stainless steel ones if used properly.

The best option if a wooden house is being built for long-term living (that is, if it is a cottage and not summer cottage): a brick shaft with a stainless sleeve inside. Such a chimney will last a long time, and can be easily repaired if necessary (the inner liner is simply replaced with a new one).

Where to mount: inside or outside?

It is important to think about where exactly the smoke exhaust duct will be located. In most cases, it is recommended to install it outside, but installation inside is also possible.

If you make a chimney from the inside, then if it is necessary to install or repair it, the amount of work will be much larger, and it will be more difficult to complete it. In this case you will have to violate interior decoration premises. In addition, such systems are more difficult to monitor because they are invisible to the eye (by at least most of them).

It is better to vent the chimney from the outside because:

• the area inside the house is not occupied (even if it is a small space, it is freed up);
• if the chimney needs to be repaired or replaced, there will be no need to dismantle the wall inside the house (that is, there will be no need to move furniture and then redo the finishing);
• no need to make a passage through the floors and roof;
• a pipe located outside is much simpler and easier to monitor: if any problems arise, they can be noticed much earlier than if it ran in the wall.

Of the minuses: the pipe will have to be insulated along its entire length (while internal chimneys need to be insulated only in cold areas: in an unheated attic, above and below the roof). However, this is still easier to do than installing the shaft inside the house.

Basic rules and regulations for installation

There are standards and rules for installing chimneys in wooden buildings. It is imperative to follow them, otherwise problems may arise. serious problems: possible fire wooden materials, rapid failure of the chimney, depressurization.

Basic rules and regulations:

1. When passing through wooden elements It is imperative to maintain a minimum distance of 38 centimeters from the internal chimney pipe to flammable structures (such as wood or some fabric elements, for example). This space must be completely filled with non-flammable elements.
2. If the pipe is laid through wooden elements specially protected from fire, then the distance between them and the chimney can be reduced to 25 centimeters ( but not recommended).
3. It is necessary to properly seal the structure and conduct a full analysis of its condition before putting it into operation. Any cracks and cracks need to be patched, even the most minimal ones - they can cause depressurization in the future.
4. It is recommended to line the smoke duct in advance during the construction of the house, which will allow you to insure against possible depressurization and fire.

Stages of installation of a brick chimney

A brick chimney is most often used for stoves, in cottages, in bathhouses, in small private houses, and sometimes in the country. The installation diagram is full of nuances, so first you need to consider a few important points:

• the laying must be done with dressing, carried out using lime or cement-lime (will be more expensive) mortar, and when laying above the roof, you need to use cement mortar;
• for work you need to use solid red brick;
• the seam should be no more than 10 millimeters, plastering the inside is prohibited;
• holes must be made in the side walls to improve air circulation;
• wooden floors in the indentation must be covered with adjacent bricks or tiles;
• if the entire structure has a large mass, it is necessary to build a foundation.

Remember that brickwork is most susceptible to destruction due to condensation. Also remember that due to the roughness of the brick, soot will accumulate much faster inside the chimney pipe, and it will have to be cleaned more often.

Conducting a smoke exhaust through the roof (if you are building a shaft inside the house) is carried out according to the following rules:

• when leading the pipe through the ceiling, make sure that the distance between the outer part of the pipe and the wooden rafters is at least 130 mm (all this space should be filled with basalt or stone wool, made without an organic binder);
• when installing a roof made of potentially flammable materials, you need to increase the distance to 260 millimeters;
• at the outlet site it is necessary to make a covering using fireproof materials (slate can be used, but roofing steel is better) - at a distance of at least 500 mm from the pipe, followed by adjustment to the otter.

Regulations on the height of the pipe above the roof:

1. If it is located near the ridge or flat roof– height may be less than 500 mm.
2. If it is located above the ridge of the roof and the length of the axis of the chimney pipe is less than 1500 mm from the parapet or ridge, the distance must be at least 500 mm.
3. Not lower than the abstract line, which goes down at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge to the horizon, when the smoke exhaust axis exits more than 3000 mm from the ridge.

Stages of installing a stainless steel chimney

Metal chimneys have a huge number of advantages over brick ones, so lately they are placed much more often. It is worth noting their most important advantages:

• extremely convenient and quick installation(compared to brick and ceramic);
• there is no need to prepare a foundation, since the entire structure is lightweight;
• the internal surfaces of the metal chimney pipe are smooth, so soot does not accumulate on them and, as a result, draft does not decrease;
• The internal channel of the chimney pipe is made of acid-resistant stainless steel, which ensures long-term operation and safety of use.

It is important to select a stainless steel chimney based on the table of its thickness relative to the temperature of the flue gases. The regulations are as follows:

1. Thickness from 0.5 mm - for gas, pellet and diesel boilers.
2. Thickness from 0.8 to 1 mm - on stoves (including bathhouses) and fireplaces.
3. Thickness from 1 mm – for coal-fired boilers.

If the chimney is installed for coal-fired stoves, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be no more than 100 millimeters. If we are talking about an automated boiler, then the thickness should not exceed 50 millimeters.

A few nuances about the roof passage:

• the distance from the chimney pipe to the tree must be no less than 250 millimeters on both sides, the pipe opening and the chimney on top are covered with a roof;
• from above the roof must be placed under slate or tiles;
• you need to mount a comfrey on top of the roof and clamp it with a clamp (to protect it from precipitation);
• the free space between the chimney and the rafters must be filled with basalt wool and the structure must be covered from below with a metal reflector.

Stages of installation of a ceramic chimney

Installation ceramic chimney It’s easier than with brick, but a little more difficult than with stainless steel.

Installation rules:

1. Considering that the ceramic chimney is presented modular system, its installation is carried out from prefabricated segments of complete factory readiness. That is, in essence, you just need to assemble the pipe from bottom to top, and attach it to the wall.
2. The inner tube must be made of heat-resistant and acid-resistant ceramics.
3. Given the large mass of the structure, it is necessary to prepare a foundation for it (this is the main requirement).

This species has become very popular recently, including due to its high resistance to negative environmental factors.

Installation of a chimney in a wooden house (video)

Install heating equipment after completion of construction work. To install a combustion product exhaust system, a chimney is removed through the wall. The design consists of several connected pipes made of steel or other modern materials. Attaching the chimney to the wall with your own hands is not difficult. To do this, you need to understand its structure and follow safety rules.

Chimney design

The optimal pipe length for smoke removal is from 5 to 10 m. If the structure is made shorter than the ridge, there will be poor draft. With a length exceeding 10 m, strong draft will provoke excessive combustion, therefore, fuel consumption will increase.

On smooth inner surface less soot settles, so a metal pipe is increasingly used when installing a chimney.

They are gradually being relegated to the background, as they take up space in the room and need to be cleaned more often than chimneys made of modern materials.

When installing a chimney through a wall and then installing it outside the house, you need to install a protective box.

Advantages of an external chimney

The chimney outlet through the wall is used in modern construction more often than the construction of brick structures.

Advantages:

• the external chimney system does not take up space in the house, unlike brick chimneys;
• can be installed in a long-built house when replacing the system;
• is the best option for two-story buildings, there is no need to cut holes in the ceilings;
• does not violate the integrity of the roof;
• easy and quick installation.

An external smoke exhaust system can be installed both immediately after completion of construction work, and after a long time after the house is put into operation.

Flaws

Like any kind building structures, the external smoke exhaust system has not only advantages, but also disadvantages:

• the outer parts of the pipe must be insulated;
• a chimney mounted through a wall has a lower efficiency than vertical design, brought out through the roof.

It is necessary to think over the location of the chimney structure so that it fits harmoniously into the design of the building.

What you need to know

There are rules that must be followed when installing the system:

• It is important to correctly calculate the diameter of the pipe. It depends on the boiler power and other parameters. If you purchase a pipe of the wrong (small) cross-section, smoke may occur due to reduced draft. High thrust with an excessively wide pipe will increase fuel consumption.
• When passing a chimney through a wall, a right angle (90 degrees) must be maintained.

The optimal distance between fasteners is considered to be 60 cm, the maximum step should not exceed 100 cm.

Sandwich pipe for chimney

Sandwich pipes for a chimney are a structure of two pipes nested one inside the other. The gap is filled with heat-insulating material with fire-resistant characteristics. Stone wool is most often used as insulation. The thickness of the layer affects the thermal stability of the entire structure and varies from 3 to 10 cm.

The pipes are made of stainless steel. Galvanized material can only be used when using wall-mounted gas boilers and low-power water heaters.

The thickness of stainless steel varies from 0.5 to 1 mm. The grade of stainless steel is chosen depending on its purpose.

The best option when installing a chimney in a wooden house is to use a sandwich pipe. During work heating boiler the thermal insulation layer takes on the thermal load from the inner pipe. This prevents excessive overheating of the outer part of the chimney. This reduces the likelihood of a fire.

Stainless steel for sandwich pipes

The table shows the most commonly used stainless steel grades and their characteristics:

Brand AISI	Application	Characteristics
430	For external casings of sandwich pipes	Belongs to economy class. It reacts poorly to elevated temperatures and has sufficient resistance to atmospheric influences.
439	As an air exhaust from gas boilers and solid fuel installations with a power of up to 30 kW.	The composition includes titanium, which increases thermal stability and resistance to aggressive environments.
316	The best option for any type of gas boilers.	The composition includes molybdenum and nickel, which increase resistance to acids and high temperatures.
304	For boilers of low and medium power.	They contain a small amount of nickel and molybdenum. Refers to the economy version of the AISI 316 brand.

Low-cost models are used for the outer casing; more heat-resistant brands are used for the inside of the chimney.

Classification of insulation

How does thickness affect thermal insulation material on the ability to withstand temperature loads:

Only some brands of fireproof can withstand temperatures up to 850 degrees; you need to pay attention to this when purchasing insulation.

How to choose pipe diameter

The internal diameter of the pipe must be the same as the cross-section of the outlet pipe, or wider. If the chimney pipes are wider than the pipe coming out of the boiler, an adapter is installed at the junction.

Dependence of pipe diameter on boiler power:

Chimney installation

Here is information on how to remove a chimney through a wall with your own hands. Installing a chimney through a wall is easy to do with your own hands.

General points

To prevent the insulation from melting, the first part of the chimney must be made in the form of a piece of pipe without a heat-saving layer. The fasteners are installed at a height protected from overheating. From here you can install a sandwich pipe.

Installation is carried out in two ways:

1. They raise the pipe system in the room closer to the ceiling, then take them out.
2. The pipes are routed through the wall at the level of the smoke pipe exiting the boiler. In this option, only one connecting elbow is formed. Therefore, traction will be better.

The boiler or stove is installed on a non-combustible base. The wall surface in contact with the boiler must also be insulated. Most often, a sheet of metal is attached to the wall and floor as a base.

Installation technology

Increased requirements are imposed on buildings made of combustible materials. When venting a chimney through a wall in a wooden house, you must take into account all fire safety standards.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a chimney correctly:

1. For the pipe, a passage is made through the wall in accordance with SNIP standards. The distance from the pipe to a wall built from fire-resistant building materials is at least 25 cm. To a surface made from materials susceptible to combustion - 45 cm. In the second case, it turns out that you need to punch a fairly large hole. To make the hole for the chimney through a wooden wall smaller, the surface is sheathed with metal or other fire-resistant material. Make a hole of 25 cm, since the surface is insulated from fire.
2. A metal box is mounted into a hole in the wall.
3. The pipe is passed through a metal box, secured in the middle, and taken out. The pipe must be solid; elements cannot be joined inside the wall, as they will be problematic to maintain.
4. All free space in the wall is filled with non-flammable thermal insulation material.
5. The hole on both sides is covered with metal or other heat-resistant raw materials.
6. A support platform for external pipes is mounted outside, which is held by metal brackets attached to the wall.
7. An adapter in the form of a tee is installed on the outgoing segment.
8. The lower part is removable. It functions as a glass to collect condensate. Some models are equipped with a fitting with a tap to which a hose is connected, through which the water accumulated inside is poured out.
9. A chimney is connected to the upper part, which is brought to the desired height. To prevent debris from getting inside the pipe, a cap is installed on it.

The pipe brought out is secured to the wall using stainless steel clamps.

For more details on how to install a chimney through a wall, watch the video:

When exiting a chimney sandwich pipe through a wooden wall, safety precautions must be observed.

• To ensure the correct direction of thrust, the joints are insulated with heat-resistant sealants.
• When a chimney is routed through a wall at the intersection of the pipe and the wall, there is a possibility of ignition as a result of overheating. To prevent fire, it is recommended to increase the thickness of the heat-insulating material at the joints.
• The pipe is secured to the wall using clamps installed at a distance of no more than 100 cm from each other.

Subject to compliance with all fire safety standards, it is possible to vent the chimney through the wall even in houses made of materials with low resistance to fire and high thermal loads.

Even a beginner in construction can install a chimney through a wall. The best thermal insulation material is stone, basalt wool. It is very important to correctly calculate all parameters, and only then proceed with installation. The safety of the building and its owners depends on compliance with all rules for installing a chimney.