Thermal insulation of a house from aerated concrete is optional, but in some cases it is very desirable. In this article we will try to explain: why insulate aerated concrete; what to choose, foam or mineral wool; what thickness of insulation to use; when it is necessary to carry out insulation.

At first glance, it seems that there is only one reason - to save money on heating, but let's look at this in more detail.

Reasons for insulating aerated concrete:

1. Reduction of heat loss through the walls, since the thermal resistance of the wall increases, as a result, lower heating costs.
2. Closing cold bridges in walls, such as armored belts, lintels, thick seams. They not only speed up the removal of heat from the house, but they can also become wet areas in the house, where mold can form.
3. Increase the durability of the building. External insulation of aerated concrete with a thickness of 100 mm transfers the dew point from the wall itself to the insulation, that is, moisture will not freeze in aerated concrete, which will make the service life of aerated concrete much higher.

Is it profitable to insulate aerated concrete or not? If we consider the economic feasibility of insulation, then you need to find out the payback of insulation. That is, how long it takes to save on heating will pay off the insulation itself.

If the payback of the insulation is more than 10-15 years, then there is no point in such insulation, it is more profitable to put money on a deposit in a bank.

But there are times when insulation is very beneficial:

1. If gas and electricity are very expensive.
2. If the house is in a cold region.
3. If the wall thickness is less than 300 mm.
4. If the walls are made of aerated concrete high density D600 and up.
5. If the walls have thick seams and many cold bridges.

To determine the thickness of the insulation, you need to find out what the required thermal resistance of the walls is needed for your region, and after what time the insulation will pay off.

It happens that people insulate their homes thin layer insulation of 40, 30 and even 20 millimeters. Which is a big mistake in terms of feasibility and payback. The thicker the insulation layer, the lower the heating costs in the future.

It should be understood that the cost of glue, foam, dowels, mesh, plaster and work does not depend on the thickness of the insulation. That is, there will be no big savings on materials and work between the thickness of 30 mm and 100 mm. But the insulation will be different at times. Therefore, it is definitely not worth saving on the thickness of the insulation.

Moreover, in order for the dew point to shift from the wall into the insulation, the thickness of the insulation should be about 100 mm.

Optimal, economically justified insulation thickness for aerated concrete walls is 100 mm.

If the walls of the house are made of high-density blocks from D600 and higher, or if the thickness of the walls is only 200, then 150 mm of insulation can be used.

Aerated concrete walls cannot be insulated immediately after their construction. The fact is that fresh factory aerated concrete is very humid, and this moisture must evaporate somewhere. From the thickness of the wall, moisture comes out both inside the house and outside, but what happens if you close the outer part of the wall with insulation, for example, foam? All moisture will remain in the wall and will go inside the house, creating high humidity, mold and other inconveniences there.

It should be noted that a damp wall retains heat worse in the house, and when negative temperatures the water in the wall turns into ice, slightly reducing the service life of the aerated concrete.

With mineral (stone) wool, things are better, because it has good vapor-permeable properties and removes excess moisture. But then the aerated concrete itself is closed from the blowing of the winds, and dries much longer. Plus, the mineral wool itself becomes more moist, deteriorating its thermal insulation properties.

In general, before insulating aerated concrete with mineral wool, you need to wait 2-6 months, and for foam plastic it is better to wait 6-12 months.

The following factors affect the drying rate of aerated concrete:

1. Wall thickness
2. Air temperature
3. Precipitation
4. Strength of blown meters

To insulate an aerated concrete house, mineral wool and foam are usually used. For the impatient, we will immediately answer - mineral wool is more expensive and better, foam is cheaper and worse. Now let's try to figure out why this is so.

Mineral wool has excellent vapor permeability, and removes excess moisture from the house and walls to the street. The vector of movement of water vapor is always directed from inside the house to the street.

This ensures a good microclimate in the house and the walls remain dry, and dry walls retain heat better. Moreover, mineral wool is absolutely non-flammable. Mineral wool slabs are more difficult to handle and must be worked with goggles, protective clothing, gloves and a respirator.

In terms of thermal insulation, cotton wool and foam have almost the same properties.

Polyfoam is cheaper, easier to work with, it is easy to cut, and the cracks are filled with foam. Polyfoam is a combustible material and almost does not allow steam to pass through, which contributes to the accumulation of moisture in the walls and high humidity in the house. A home insulated with foam requires good ventilation, and intensive ventilation blows heat out of the house.

Recuperators come to the rescue - special fans that heat the air entering the house due to the heat of the outgoing air.

In general, mineral wool has an important advantage - vapor permeability, and for an aerated concrete house it is the best choice... But if finances put a lot of pressure, you can also use foam, but only with a thickness of 100 mm, so that the dew point is in the insulation + there is good ventilation in the house.

Thermal insulation schemes for aerated concrete with stone wool

Foam insulation technology

Mineral wool insulation technology

Every day, with every cycle mastered, the house built according to a project with FORUMHOUSE is getting closer to becoming a dream come true for one of the families of our craftsmen. In you can follow each stage of work, and in this moment thermal insulation of building envelopes with mineral wool is already being carried out. This article will reveal all aspects of the process, not only using the example of our home, but also the technology itself as a whole. Professionals reveal their secrets in the format of a master class for everyone:

• What is the reason for the need for wall insulation.
• What is the reason for the choice of insulation.
• The technology of thermal insulation of building envelopes with stone wool.

Why insulation is necessary

Aerated concrete has a porous structure, due to which it is characterized by low thermal conductivity - for a dry structural block, this coefficient varies within the range of 0.096-0.14 W / (m · ° C), depending on the density. However, in masonry, even with a minimum seam thickness on the glue, the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete increases.

This happens due to an increase in humidity, and due to arm-belts and jumpers, and due to a variety of metal fasteners.

If, in accordance with SNiP, we use the method of temperature fields, then, taking into account the derived coefficient (0.7), the thermal resistance of a wall of standard thickness will be less than that laid down in the standards.

We get: 3.65 · 0.7 = 2.55 m² · ° C / W, against the required 3.13 m² · ° C / W (for Moscow and the region). That is, in a house built of aerated concrete blocks 375 mm thick, the walls without additional insulation will actively release heat, which will entail an increase in heating costs. Therefore, in order to obtain an energy-efficient aerated concrete house, which is one of the main tasks for private traders in the context of a constant increase in energy tariffs, it will be necessary to create a thermal circuit around the entire perimeter, and not just a protective and decorative finish. The most effective is the external insulation of facades.

Polina Nosova Leading technical specialist of TechnoNIKOL company

External insulation is preferable due to several factors:

• preservation useful area Houses;
• protection of walls from temperature fluctuations;
• an increase in the service life of supporting structures due to a shift in the dew point (zone of probable condensation) into the thermal circuit.

Why is it preferable for aerated concrete blocks

Modern market thermal insulation materials pleases with an abundance of proposals for any construct and wallet, another thing is that not every insulation will be effective in relation to aerated concrete base. The main principle of creating multilayer enclosing structures is to increase the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer, starting from the inside. Despite the fact that the controversy about the "breathing" of the walls does not subside, steam is one of the products of our vital activity, and a certain part of it is discharged through the walls. For thermal insulation of aerated concrete, characterized by high vapor permeability, materials with even greater " throughput”And mineral wool meets this criterion.

Two types of facade systems are in maximum demand - a "wet" facade with a thin-layer finishing plaster and a hinged ventilated facade. In the first case, steam will be removed from the walls into the insulation, and from it through a few millimeters of the reinforcing and plaster layer. In the second, steam will be drawn through ventilation gap a few centimeters between the insulation and the cladding screen.

High-strength slabs are used under the plaster, and lightweight slabs with low compressibility in the ventilated facade.

But if thin-layer plasters can also be applied to other bases, then in systems of a ventilated facade, fire safety standards allow the use of exclusively non-combustible heat insulators, and the NG group only mineral wool.

Polina Nosova

The fire safety of the house can be increased by using non-combustible thermal insulation - the melting temperature of the stone fiber is more than 1000⁰С. In the event of a fire in a private house, such a glow is achieved in a couple of hours after the fire, this time is enough to save both household members and valuable property. It is important that even melting is not accompanied by the release of poisonous gases and increased smoke generation.

Technology of thermal insulation of building envelopes with stone wool

The system of a ventilated facade with siding cladding is one of the most popular among private owners, since it allows you to level all the errors of the foundation, and is also available in terms of independent execution. If, over time, under the influence of heaving forces or for other reasons, cracks form on the masonry, the hinged facing screen will not suffer. And given the fragility of aerated concrete and its demand for the strictest adherence to technology, many self-builders prefer cladding as a more durable finishing layer. Thermal insulation of aerated concrete walls with stone wool for finishing with siding or other facing material is carried out in several stages.

Training

When insulating during the reconstruction of an already operating building, all functional and decorative elements are removed from the walls, the surface is cleaned of contamination, if necessary, primed. If there is any doubt about the bearing capacity, the base is checked by tapping with a hammer. Severe irregularities must be removed (protrusions) or repaired (depressions). When insulating during construction, the remains of the solution are removed from the walls. If there was heavy precipitation before work, it is necessary to let the box dry.

Marking

Before installing the battens, using a level or a level, markings are applied to the wall, along which the frame elements will be attached. The distance between the vertical batten of the lathing depends on the dimensions of the insulation.

Polina Nosova

In order for the slab to become a surprise, without the formation of cracks and without deformation, and fit snugly against the wall, the vertical axes are marked at a distance of 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation (length, when laid horizontally). If the width is 600 mm, the distance in the gap (between the inner edges of the timber) should be 580 or 590 mm.

Installation of vertical racks

Since the complete absence of heat leaks through the cold bridges is guaranteed only by two-layer insulation with overlapping joints, first a vertical crate is assembled on the wall according to the markings. The thickness of the timber should correspond to the thickness of the slab, usually it is a timber of 50 × 50 mm. To aerated concrete, the racks are fixed on special fasteners, since for lightweight cellular concrete, ordinary dowel-nails or self-tapping screws used on other bases are not suitable.

Laying slabs in a vertical frame

The thickness of the layers is selected on the basis of a heat engineering calculation; for most regions, a total thickness of 100-150 mm is sufficient. The absence of shrinkage and high resilience of the slabs make it possible to simplify the technology and install mineral wool without additional fixation, placing it between the timber and the bar. If necessary, the slabs are trimmed with a knife or hand saw with fine teeth. If during the assembly of the battens it was not possible to maintain the required distance, large gaps can be filled with a piece of slab.

Installation of horizontal racks

After laying the first layer, markings are applied under horizontal frame, also using a level or level.

The distance between the uprights also depends on the dimensions of the slab minus the seal; the dimensions of the timber are matched to the thickness of the slab.

The arrangement of the second row of the timber is made horizontal due to the fact that the further frame under facing material will be attached to it in a vertical position with a pitch of 400 mm for siding.

Laying slabs in a horizontal frame

Thermal insulation plates are laid on the edge, with displacement of the seams, which allows you to completely get rid of cold bridges, even taking into account the use of metal fasteners when installing vertical racks.

Protective layer

To protect the insulation from atmospheric influences and the unimpeded removal of condensate, a vapor-permeable, moisture-windproof membrane is laid over the heating circuit.

Despite the prevailing opinion that the advisability of insulation is questionable, since the costs will significantly exceed the possible savings on energy resources even in the long term, heat calculations and practice prove the opposite. Aerated concrete house insulated with stone wool is not only comfortable, but also economical living.

Aerated concrete by itself cannot provide external thermal insulation of a house. For the strong load-bearing walls you need sufficiently dense building blocks not lower than the D500 brand. And in order for the box to turn out not only reliable, but also warm, they would have to be stacked in two rows. It will come out more expensive than insulating a load-bearing wall, and this approach does not 100% solve the problem of losses, therefore the review is devoted to the materials that will best cope with this task.

Only residents of the southern regions can afford to leave the house without external insulation, where there are no bitter frosts, and the temperature difference in winter outside and inside the house is not too great. In the central regions, practice shows that it is cheaper to lay one-and-a-half blocks, and then simply carry out external thermal insulation.

Do not discount the formation of a plane of condensation, that is, a "dew point" that occurs when there is a large run-up of temperatures on the street and in indoor areas... Because of this, unprotected masonry in winter gets wet to a depth of 1-2 cm, and the entire surface of the bearing walls turns from a thermal insulator into a continuous source of losses. To take this area outside the enclosing structures, the aerated concrete house needs insulation outside.

To choose the right material for external thermal insulation, you need to have a good idea of ​​the "behavior" of cellular blocks, taking into account all their pros and cons. Due to their high porosity, they not only reliably keep heat in the house, but they themselves breathe quite actively. Therefore, it is necessary to think over how the air exchange will take place so as not to provoke the appearance of condensation under the external insulation.

Insulation is planned in accordance with the basic rule of vapor permeability of walls: with each next layer of the facade "pie", it should increase. And if, for some reason, the selected material cannot ensure the unhindered movement of air from the inside, it is better to leave a ventilated gap in front of it. Aerated concrete has a vapor permeability in the range of 0.15-0.25 mg / m ∙ h ∙ Pa.

Mineral wool

Perfectly permits air through its fibers, and it is easy to breathe in the interior. Another plus is the relatively low cost. There are also a couple of not very useful properties:

• Hygroscopicity.

Thermal insulation of the facade with a mineral "sponge" requires special protection from moisture, both in the form of suspended steam from the inside of the house and outside.

• Fragility.

Minvata serves for about 10-15 years, gradually crumbling into dust and losing its properties. Then the outer cladding will have to be dismantled and the house will have to be insulated from aerated concrete anew.

Mineral wool characteristics	Ursa geo	Rocklight	Knauf	Isoroc
Thickness, mm	50	50	100	50
Thermal conductivity, W / mK	0,032	0,039	0,034	0,032
Water absorption,% of volume	1	2	2	1,5
Permeability, mg / (m ∙ h ∙ Pa)	0,52	0,3	0,5	0,55
Price, rub / m3	2250	1220	1270	2750
Cost of 1 m2, rubles	113	60	127	138

Basalt slabs

It is possible to insulate aerated concrete from the outside with basalt products. This is a special and improved case of mineral wool - in no way inferior to it in insulating properties, but more durable and with good performance characteristics.

House insulation is performed using a technology that is simultaneously similar to working with Penoplex and with mineral wool materials... They are glued to the primed walls and are additionally fixed with front dowels. But in comparison with expanded polystyrene, the finishing of aerated concrete with basalt slabs is a little more complicated, since it involves the use of a diffusion membrane. After that, plaster is applied to the outside of the insulation using a reinforcing mesh and the facade is painted.

Basalt slab can be made from ultra-thin (1-3 microns) and fine fibers (4-15 microns). The first retains heat better due to the larger volume of air pores, the second is more profitable in price.

Basalt slab characteristics	Paroc	TechnoNIKOL	Rockwool	Baswool
Thickness, mm	100	50	50	100
Thermal conductivity, W / mK	0,036	0,036	0,036	0,035
Water absorption,%	0,54	1,5	0,3	0,3
Density, kg / m3	26 – 30	72 – 88	28 – 35	35
Permeability, mg / (m ∙ h ∙ Pa)	0,55	0,3	0,3	0,3
Price, rub / m3	1750	2900	1450	1350
Cost of 1 m2, rub	175	145	73	135

Expanded polystyrene

Warming with EPS boards causes a lot of controversy, the reason is low permeability and the appearance of a thermos effect, that is, a sealed shell that prevents air exchange. Another unpleasant moment is the possible displacement of the "dew point" in the contact zone of the wall and thermal insulation, which causes waterlogging of the outer surface of the masonry.

But these problems are solved with the help of ventilation gaps, especially if a crate for siding is mounted on the facade. The plastic cladding must be located at such a distance from the load-bearing walls so that there is enough space for the Penoplex slabs, plus a gap of a couple of centimeters. The insulation itself is inserted between the frame guides, and the aerated concrete “releases steam” without hindrance.

Another scheme is also possible, if the house has an effective supply and exhaust ventilation... What you need to do to reliably insulate your home:

• put on glue and fix the Penoplex slabs with a dowel-fungus along the facade;
• it is good to seal the seams with polyurethane foam;
• pull the mesh over and plaster the walls.

This way of insulating a house from aerated concrete will create an absolutely waterproof protection for porous blocks.

Characteristics of expanded polystyrene, 50 mm	Penoplex	Tepleks	Ursa	Technoplex
Thermal conductivity, W / mK	0,031	0,028	0,033	0,030
Water absorption,%	0,3	0,4	0,3	0,2
Density, kg / m3	25 – 32	28 – 38	28 – 38	26 – 35
Permeability, mg / (m ∙ h ∙ Pa)	0,007	0,018	0,004	0,01
Price, rub / m3	4320	4220	3810	4630
Cost of 1m2, rubles	216	211	191	231

Polyurethane foam

Liquid polyurethane foam, which is applied to surfaces by spraying, is not very popular in private construction. To work with it, you need special equipment, so you will have to spend money on calling the brigade - you cannot master such insulation of aerated concrete on your own.

Spraying allows you to create a continuous porous layer along the entire facade that is not sensitive to moisture and does not deteriorate over time. Thermal insulation simply sticks to the surface of the walls, without violating the integrity of the blocks in the masonry. For work and material 100 mm thick, you will have to pay about 550 rubles / m2.

Characteristics of polyurethane foam:

• Coeff. thermal conductivity - 0.026 W / m ∙ K.
• Air permeability - about 0.1 mg / (m ∙ h ∙ Pa).
• Adhesion - 1.5-2.5 kg / cm2.
• Average water absorption by volume - 1.6%.
• Density - 40-120 kg / m3.
• Service life - from 25 years.
• Flammability class - G2.

Comparing the pros and cons of polyurethane foam with the properties of other outdoor heaters, one should highlight its lowest thermal conductivity. That's just not in every city you can find firms that provide services for spraying polyurethane foam, so in most cases you will have to be content with more common and affordable materials.

Revealing the topic of this article, it is necessary first of all to answer the question of what constitutes aerated concrete. Well, first of all, it is a building material. Secondly, it belongs to the category of cellular concrete, as a result of the production of which a porous structure is formed inside the material, saturated with gas bubbles.

Accordingly quality of this material will largely depend on the uniform distribution of pores, on their density and closure.

Note!
Basically it is natural material, which is made from quartz sand and cement with the addition of special gas-formers.
Most often, their role is played by aluminum powder.

Aerated concrete production technologies are different, hence the recipe, which varies depending on the type technological process... For example, manufacturers often add lime to aerated concrete, less often gypsum.

The production technology is quite simple.

1. All components are mixed in certain proportions.
2. Molding is performed, where the material begins to expand under the action of chemical reaction, during which gassing occurs.
3. After preliminary drying, the aerated concrete is cut into blocks.
4. Then finished product must be dried. There are two methods: autoclave and non-autoclave.

Attention!
In the case of using the first method, the strength characteristics of the material increase, but at the same time its price becomes higher.

Note one very important point, which deals with the topic of our article. The porous structure of aerated concrete suggests that this material itself is a good heat insulator. True, there is one "BUT" here. By increasing the heat-insulating qualities of aerated concrete, we reduce its strength properties.

That is, the more pores inside the product, the weaker it is, but the higher the insulation performance. Therefore, the question of whether or not to insulate a house built from aerated concrete blocks will largely depend on the brand of the product. And if you buy more porous blocks, then remember, you should not build multi-storey buildings out of them.

Now let's move on to the process itself and from the inside.

Do I need to insulate

Partially we answered the question whether it is necessary to insulate the house from aerated concrete. But it is necessary to focus on another aspect. Aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, that is, they "breathe" very well. This seems to be a big plus, but on the other hand, and a minus.

Attention!
Walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be arranged in such a way that the vapor permeability of the material decreases from the outer surface of the wall to the inner one.
That is, the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a house from aerated concrete is solved in this way.
If everything turns out the other way around, then the gas inside the pores will begin to gain moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the material, and, accordingly, on the entire structure of the building as a whole.

To prevent the penetration of wet vapors into the body of the blocks, it is necessary to insulate the walls both from the outside and from the inside. Therefore, first of all, we will analyze a few basic thermal insulation materials that are currently most often used in this process.

Let's figure out how to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Heaters

Modern market building materials today I am ready to offer a huge range of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate aerated concrete.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam

Experts today give preference to such heat insulators as:

1. expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
2. polyurethane foam.

• The first insulation has a different structure relative to the density of the material itself. For example, ordinary expanded polystyrene (aka polystyrene) is less durable, less dense, and, accordingly, less reliable. In addition, it has low thermal insulation performance.
  Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense and durable insulation with high thermal insulation values.

• Polyurethane foam unique material... Firstly, it is a building mixture that is applied to the walls under pressure. Secondly, getting on the surface, it instantly bonds with it, creating a reliable foamed protective layer. Thirdly, such a heater will last for several decades.

But there is one very serious point here. Expanded polystyrene is a slab material that is not difficult to lay on the wall with your own hands. But polyurethane foam cannot be applied independently to the treated surfaces.

It requires not only experience and skills, but also special equipment. So this way insulation is quite expensive, but effective.

Mineral wool

I would like to say a little about mineral wool. It is one of the most effective thermal insulation materials. But experts note that it is better not to use it with aerated concrete.

The thing is that mineral wool has the ability to draw in moist air vapors, which is a negative factor for aerated concrete blocks (we have already talked about this above).

So, which insulation for aerated concrete walls is better, you know, now you can proceed to the very process of arranging the thermal protection of the building.

And first of all, we will consider the insulation of aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene as the most budgetary option.

Insulation of walls from aerated concrete blocks

As mentioned above, aerated concrete walls are insulated from the outside and from the inside. Why exactly on both sides?

Remember!
Humidity and condensation are highly dependent on the dew point.
Until the thermal insulation work has been carried out, this point is on the surface of the wall.
As soon as the insulation process is completed, the dew point will shift to the surface of the heat insulator.
A small mistake or improper work can lead to the fact that condensation will form on the insulation, and this is a guarantee that this material will soon begin to lose its qualities and properties.

As in any construction process, the insulation of aerated concrete houses is divided into several stages.

Stage 1

This internal insulation walls made of aerated concrete.

I would like to note that many of us independently insulated a loggia or balcony, so many technical processes will be familiar, taking into account the specifics of aerated concrete.

• Basically, aerated concrete blocks- it is very flat and smooth surface which to process before ideal condition it makes no sense . But sometimes they also have defects. Therefore, cracks and chips are sealed with glue or cement mortar, the bumps are removed sandpaper or with a sharp spatula.
• After that, the entire surface must be primed to create high adhesion of the wall.... Please note that in some areas of the house, the walls will be exposed negative impact humidity.
  So such walls must be treated with waterproofing compounds without fail. And when all this dries up (it usually takes up to six hours), you can start plastering. V in this case there is no need to use a thick layer of plaster.
• And the last one is finishing... The easiest way is to paint the walls with special vapor-permeable paints, which are specially made for aerated concrete.
  If drywall is used as a finish, then it is necessary to additionally treat the wall with a primer. By the way, drywall can be glued to such surfaces.

Stage 2

This is the insulation of the facade of the house made of aerated concrete. Everything is much simpler here, because there is no need to mess with dirty processes. Although it should be noted that manufacturers today began to offer plaster mortars, which are intended specifically for aerated concrete blocks.

Such solutions have excellent vapor-permeable properties, and, moreover, they never crack.

Attention!
There is one very important point.
If the walls are treated with vapor-permeable materials from the inside, and vapor-tight on the outside, then the probability that the inside of the house will be high humidity is very large.
Therefore, be extremely careful when choosing a heat insulator.

The slab material is laid directly on the wall, for which you can use either a cement-based mortar or special mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws. In the case of self-tapping screws, experts do not recommend using hardware, which after a while will begin to rust.

And the last is the finish. What to choose?

In principle, there are a lot of materials, it is better to note that not to choose.

• Vapor-proof paints;
• Polymer-based solutions;
• Foamed plastics based solutions;
• Foam glass.

Yes, and do not forget to insulate all elements of the house, otherwise there will be little benefit from the work done. We are talking about insulation plastic windows, entrance doors, basement, roof and so on.

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, the instruction on how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete using expanded polystyrene (foam) is not so complicated. Of course, knowledge of the nuances this process will provide simplicity and reliability, but in any case, anyone can cope with such work without problems.

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

Before insulating a house from aerated concrete from the outside, it is necessary to choose insulation materials. They can be different.

The main task is insulation, they will be able to do it, but depending on the composition, it is necessary to take them into account weaknesses... In order to insulate a house from aerated concrete outside, several types of insulation are suitable. Some are classic types of insulation, others seem not entirely suitable, but nevertheless they cope with their task.

A completely classic type of insulation. Suitable for wooden houses for both concrete and brick houses. The installation of mineral wool is quite simple and does not raise any special questions. Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete with cotton wool is carried out in two ways:

Frame installation

To do this, at the corners of the house and over the entire area, they are mounted with a certain step wooden blocks or metal guides. The step of the guides depends on the width of the mineral wool. Mineral wool is placed in the resulting frame, and everything is covered with a vapor and windproof membrane on top.

Glue mounting

Mineral wool can be mounted on special glue, which is sold in construction hypermarkets. The glue is diluted according to the instructions and allowed to stand for a while. After that, it must be applied as evenly as possible to the mineral wool and then, together with the glue, it must be strongly pressed against the wall.

The disadvantage of both methods is that it is necessary to subsequently finish finishing, otherwise the outside will be ugly. Also, a serious minus of the insulation itself is that it is hydrophobic, it is necessary to make high-quality insulation of the mineral wool layer from the foundation.

The same methods can be used to insulate the facade of a house from aerated concrete. Due to the fact that the foam is produced in the form of plates, you can not build a frame, but stick the foam on the wall.

A serious advantage of foam is that it is not as hydrophobic as cotton wool, and also does not lose volume over time, to which soft insulation is susceptible. But additional decorative trim you still have to produce at home.

Liquid polyurethane

This method refers to modern ways... The heat-insulating layer will be, which, under the influence of certain substances, will solidify into one layer.

In order to mount such insulation, it is necessary to mix the main composition with a hardener and, using special equipment, distribute the mixture between the facade of the house and the decoration. Also, before performing this operation, you need to think about what kind of decoration the house will be and make it, leaving a gap into which the mixture will be poured.

A serious plus in the question of the better to insulate the house is that at the same time it is necessary to carry out decorative finishing, otherwise it will not be possible to make the insulation.

The downside is that you cannot perform this operation on your own, since it is necessary to use special equipment, and, therefore, you will have to involve any specialists in this process for a certain fee.

Facing the house with bricks

Another way to solve the question of how to insulate a house from aerated concrete from the outside is a brick. This is somewhat non-standard, but it allows not only creating a layer of insulation, but also simultaneously solving the issue of decorating the facade.

In order to tile the house, you need to prepare a brick and mortar, which will hold the masonry together. There are different bricks on sale:

1. Hollow - not very suitable for insulation, as internal voids will take heat from the house.
2. Silicate - most suitable for facing works, but it will not work independently for thermal insulation, which means it is necessary to build an air pocket.
3. Full-bodied - it acts more as an insulating layer or with its help they create walls for the house. But it needs to be decorated.

Thermal insulation can be performed by creating an air pocket, and clinker bricks will act as a facing layer.

As a rule, cladding work starts from the base and continues upward. To create an air pocket, retreat some distance from the wall. Loose insulation is poured into this air pocket after finishing work on the lining. It can be foam balls or expanded clay.

Warming with decorative plaster

Decorative plaster can also act as a heater for a house from an aerated block. As a rule, such houses adhere well to the layer of the leveling compound, which will act as insulation, it is also called warm plaster.

A layer of decorative plaster is applied to this leveling compound, which is fixed with paint or varnish. All these layers will play for insulation. Also, this system solves the problem of decorating the facade of the house.

But insulation decorative plaster can be made for one more layer of insulation. For example, first a layer of mineral wool or foam is installed. Then, a fiberglass facade mesh is laid on this material, with the help of which the leveling layer will be held, and after that decorative plaster is applied.

Before making insulation with glue or plaster, the walls must be cleaned and primed. No matter what good glue was not used for gluing insulation, the installation must be strengthened.

That is, in addition to fixing the plates to special glue, it is also necessary to additionally secure each plate with a dowel-nail, or a front dowel. For mineral wool - with a metal nail, for foam with plastic. As a rule, such dowels are driven in at the corners and in the middle of the slabs.

In order to prevent the formation of condensate, the joints of the gas block should be additionally putty or smeared with a solution on which the gas block lay. Thus, the connections will not leave warm air and mix with cold, causing condensation to form.

It should be noted that any insulation also plays the role of sound insulation. Therefore, you should not neglect such work, in the resulting result you can get warm house, into which extraneous sounds do not penetrate.