The choice and construction of a stove for a bath must be taken with particular attention, since the stove is its most important element. In the bath, it performs two very important functions: it heats the water for procedures and heats the air in the room. The stove can be with a closed or open heater.

A stove with a closed heater retains heat longer, but it takes more time and firewood to warm up the steam room. If you plan to use the sauna infrequently, it is recommended to give preference to a closed heater. With an open heater, the steam room heats up quickly, but when watering the stones with water, it cools faster. The stones located in the steam room must be solid and rounded.

If you want to build a homemade sauna stove, consider the recommendations and advice of stove builders. Before building a stove-heater, you need to familiarize yourself with existing projects and choose the right design for yourself. Then a good waterproofing of the foundation is carried out, which must be poured 5 centimeters wider than the stove. Fire grates are installed in the firebox for sifting ash into the ash pan. With the help of an ash pan, the combustion of fuel is improved, which makes it possible to heat the steam room faster. The distance between the firebox and the ash pan must be at least 30 centimeters. When removing the chimney, be sure to install a damper in the chimney to control the intensity of draft.

Requirements for sauna stoves

• Under the oven should be separate foundation.
• The oven must be hermetic without any gaps or cracks.
• Requires wood trim, located near the stove, treat with an antiseptic, but to protect against spontaneous combustion, it is still better to sheathe it with steel sheets.
• The metal elements of the oven must not come into contact with elements made of flammable materials (plastic or wood lining, etc.).
• The ash pan should be at a distance above 15 cm from the floor.
• The distance between the ceiling and the top edge of the oven must not be less than half a metre.
• Recommended near the stove sew up the floor metal sheet.
• The stove is installed near the door of the dressing room.

Homemade ovens for a bath must meet the following conditions:

1. The oven must provide temperature in the upper part of the steam room not lower than 80 ° C, and 45 ° C in the lower zone.
2. The stones on the stove should be good warm up so that enough steam is produced when watering them.
3. If the stove works with solid fuel, then it must burn evenly.
4. The chimney and furnace chamber must be sealed.
5. The oven must have high efficiency.

Options for a homemade stove for a bath

Metal homemade oven from sheet metal has a lower firebox and a tank for heating water. Part of the oven is lined with bricks. The lower firebox and wall are also brick. The stove works in this way: water flows through the side door, from which steam is released.

oven from sheet metal works as in the previous version: water and steam enter through the side door. The inner walls are brick. For the construction of such a stove for a bath, sheets of iron with a thickness of more than 5 mm may be suitable.

brick stove for a bath is one of the most popular options. It looks like this: the firebox is lined with refractory bricks, an ash pan is located below the firebox, and there is a cast-iron or steel grate, which is designed for laying stones. The brick oven has a chimney and doors. Hot water is supplied by a coil. The furnace is erected on the foundation. For this design, a solution made of sand and clay is used. It is unacceptable to use mortar for laying bricks, in which cement is present, which is not resistant to high temperatures. The brick oven is fireproof. The laying of such a stove is a rather laborious and complex process.

Stove for a bath from a metal pipe

The most interesting option is a metal sauna stove made using a metal pipe. You can build it in a short time without problems. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the location of the future stove.

To build a homemade stove from a pipe, you will need:

• Instruments- grinder, welding machine, electrodes diameter 3.4.
• Materials- a metal pipe with a diameter of 50 cm, a wall thickness of 1 cm and a length of one and a half meters, sheet iron 3-10 mm, reinforcement or rod 8-10 mm.
• Building materials- sand and crushed stone 0.1 cubic meters, cement 150 kg, brick 300 - 400 pieces, clay.

Below is a functional diagram of a metal furnace from a pipe for a bath.

1) blew; 2) firebox; 3) heater; 4) door; 5) crane; 6) hot water tank; 7) chimney pipe; 8) a platform for a brick pipe; 9) brick pipe; 10) gate; 11) upper part of the tank; 12) hole for the chimney; 13) cover with a handle; 14) pipe hole; 15) tank bottom; 16) a lattice of reinforcing bars; 17) steel plate; 18) grate; 19) ears; 20) steel tire coupling.

In order to install the stove in the bath, you must pour foundation under it We knock down the formwork with a size of 1 × 1 m, a height of 30 cm. We lay reinforcement in squares of 20 × 20 cm in one layer, tying each other with wire. So that the reinforcement does not lie on the ground, we drive in four pieces of reinforcement along the edges and tie the grate to them by weight. Next, pour the foundation. To the foundation did not crack, when it dries, we put wet rags on it, which we wet for two weeks. Open all windows and doors for ventilation.

Step-by-step technology for making a furnace from a pipe

I step. Preparation of parts from which the furnace will be made

We take a pipe length one and a half meters, a diameter of fifty centimeters, a pipe wall thickness of at least one centimeter and cut out the details necessary for the furnace. We cut the pipe into two parts: one 60 centimeters, the second 90 centimeters. From the pipe segment, which is larger, we will install firebox and stove, and use a smaller segment for a hot water tank.

II step. Building an oven

At the bottom of a larger piece of pipe, which is intended for the heater, a hole is cut out for the blower. It is 20 cm wide and 6 cm high. Mounted above the cutout by welding round steel plate, the thickness of which is not less than 1.2 centimeters. Then a part of the metal for the grate in the blower is cut out separately. Four ears are welded by welding to secure it.

Next, cut out a niche where the firebox will be located. From the rest of the pipe we make firebox door measuring 25 by 30 centimeters and hang it on loops. A latch is attached to the door. From a piece of pipe with a height of 30 or 35 centimeters we make a heater. We weld it over the firebox and make another door, the size of which is 25 by 30 centimeters.

We fill the heater with rounded stones ( half of its volume). We install a steel coupling in the upper part of the stove, which is needed to fix the hot water tank.

III step. Making a hot water tank

For the manufacture of the tank we use piece of smaller pipe(60 cm). We weld the bottom to the end part of the pipe section, the thickness of which should be eight millimeters. A hole with a diameter of 15 centimeters must be cut in the bottom to install a chimney. It should be shifted to the rear wall of the tank.

We weld the chimney tightly to the bottom of the tank so that avoid water leakage into the furnace. From above, the tank is closed with a metal lid, in which there must be holes for the chimney and for water. To the chimney, 5 centimeters above the tank, a steel square platform with sides of 30 centimeters must be welded to establish a brick pipe that is led through the ceiling and then through the roof.

We equip the brick pipe with a valve. Opposite the water hole below, we weld a valve with a faucet to the tank.

IV step. We install the finished stove in the room

After assembling a metal stove from a pipe, it can be installed indoors. When installing the oven, follow technological rules:

1. Necessary strictly observe the size of the site on which the oven will be installed. The platform should have a square shape with a side of 70 centimeters and a height of 15 - 20 centimeters. The stove should be installed at a distance of 20 centimeters from the wall.
2. The furnace of this design is installed on concrete foundation, laid out of refractory bricks, 20 - 30 centimeters high with the help of clay mortar.
3. In places where the outlet of the chimney passes, it is necessary to make thickening brickwork- about 12 centimeters. Ceilings (wooden) are covered with cardboard, asbestos or felt moistened with a clay solution. The gap of the pipe from the roof to the ceiling must be plastered and then whitewashed. The height of the outer laying of a brick pipe should be more than 50 centimeters from the roof level.
4. The doors of the firebox should be directed towards the exit, and the door of the heater - to the corner of the bath diagonally.
5. Shelves in the steam room should be located against the wall where the stove stands. It is necessary to calculate their height so that sitting with your head does not touch the ceiling. The heated air rises, and because of this, the ceiling is very hot. On the ceiling in the steam room, you should not install lamps for the safety of being in it.
6. If the bath is wooden, then a metal stove for fire safety should be cover with bricks. The height of the brick lining is 120 centimeters, the length is 80 centimeters on both sides of the stove. Now you can build a wall.
7. The test of the furnace must be carried out without those present in the bath.

To build a homemade stove for a bath from a metal pipe, use our instructions to help you fulfill your dream. Good luck!

Since buying a factory product from a world-famous manufacturer is a very expensive business, many of our compatriots prefer home-made sauna stoves. If you carefully study the design of such a furnace, it becomes clear that there are no particularly complex details in it. Therefore, you can make it with your own hands with minimal skill.

In the sections of our article, we will talk about how metal and brick home-made stoves for baths are made.

metal models

Design and material selection

For the most part, home-made sauna stoves are represented by steel and brick models. Of course, there are also original designs that use factory parts (for example, solid cast iron fireboxes), but they are rather an exception, and therefore we will not consider them.

A metal furnace made of steel pipes is the simplest device. To make it, we need a piece of steel pipe or a thick-walled barrel, as well as a welding machine and a grinder.

Note! The presence of skills in working with welding is mandatory, since the tightness and strength of the welds directly determine how efficient and durable our home-made stove in the bath will be.

So, if we like the steel model, we proceed to work planning:

• First you need to decide on the design features. The easiest way is to download drawings of home-made bath stoves online and choose the appropriate option.
• However, if necessary, you can design the device yourself, starting from the dimensions of the pipes at our disposal. Here it is important to choose the right power of the stove, which will be approximately equal to half the volume of the furnace (in liters).

Advice! For home-made varieties, it is better to make a power reserve, since their performance is usually somewhat less than that of factory samples.

• As a rule, steel pipes with a wall thickness of at least 8-10 mm are used for the manufacture of all blanks. To make a standard compact oven for a steam room, you need about one and a half meters of such a pipe.
• We will also need some gratings and sheet metal. The dimensions of the metal sheet must be determined in advance, since they depend on the dimensions of the individual elements.
• In addition, it is worth buying two sets of hinges and latches for the firebox door and ash drawer, a tap for a water tank, etc. The price of these parts is low, so you don’t have to worry about exceeding the budget.

When all the materials are purchased, you can start making the structure with your own hands.

Assembling blanks into a single structure

A home-made stove for a bath from a steel pipe is made according to the following algorithm:

• We cut a one and a half meter piece of pipe into two parts - 90 and 60 cm (approximately). Most of it will be used as a blank for a firebox with a heater, and a smaller part will be used as a water heater.
• Next, we begin to process a segment of 90 cm. In the lower part, we cut a groove up to 50 mm high and 20-25 cm wide. The resulting hole will work as a blower, providing the furnace with oxygen.

• Above the blower we weld a thick steel plate with a fixed grate. This plate serves as the bottom of the firebox.
• We make a furnace hole in the wall of the pipe. We weld the hinges on one edge of the hole and hang the door - it can be made from the same steel sheet, having previously bent along the radius of the pipe.
• Next, you need to make a heater - a container in which heating elements (pebbles, cobblestones, etc.) will be placed. As a heater, you can use either a pipe segment or a metal basket welded from reinforcing bars.

• From a piece of pipe 60 cm long we make a tank for heating water. To do this, we weld the bottom with a hole for the chimney in the lower part, and install a tap in one of the side walls.
• It is better to make a lid on the tank in such a way that at least a third of it remains open: this way it will be possible to add water without fear of getting burned on the metal.

Note! We check the quality and tightness of the seams, since when the tank leaks, the furnace may attenuate and carbon monoxide poisoning.

We weld the firebox with the heater and the tank to each other. For a stronger connection of the parts, steel strips or a metal sheet coupling can be fixed around the perimeter. We pass the chimney through the water-heating tank and weld it to the bottom as tightly as possible.

Homemade iron stoves for a bath are mounted quite simply.

• It is necessary to install the structure in such a way that the firebox opens towards the front door.
• It is worth pouring a concrete foundation up to 30 cm thick into the base of the furnace. It will also not be superfluous to lay two layers of refractory bricks on clay mortar.
• The distance from the edge of the oven to any vertical surface should not be less than 20 cm.
• To ensure fire safety in a wooden structure, heating structures can be lined with half-brick masonry. By the way, it will save you from burns!

Laying a brick

Materials and mortar

If you want to make a more complex model, we advise you to carefully study additional sources of information, and first of all, the video in this article.

When asked how a metal stove differs from a stone one, many answer with a smile and without the slightest hesitation - the material of manufacture. For such an answer, you can put a three on a five-point system for assessing knowledge. To get a higher score, check out the main and fundamental differences, this knowledge will be very useful to you when making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands.

The stone oven is made of heavy bricks, therefore, it has a large mass. And all bodies with a large mass are characterized by significant inertia - they heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time. For a bath, this is not bad, but only on one condition - the device of the firebox must provide the maximum temperature for burning firewood, otherwise it will take a long time to heat the premises.

The metal furnace, on the contrary, has a small mass, heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. These features put forward fundamentally new requirements for the firebox, the firewood in it should burn as long as possible. This is the only way to keep the oven hot for a long time.

Another important requirement for the firebox is related to the characteristics of steel. When heated to only + 150 ° C, martensite begins to decompose, it recrystallizes and polygonizes, the physical properties of the metal change.

Look at the table, at this temperature the metal furnace does not change color, it seems to us that everything is fine, but this is no longer the case. Low-temperature tempering occurs at metal temperatures up to +250°, steel loses its resistance to dynamic loads.

The dark brown color of the furnace indicates that the metal has heated up to a temperature of +550°C, and at these indicators, medium-temperature steel tempering begins, martensite turns into ferrite and cementite. Crystalline transformations of a metal change its linear characteristics. Have you noticed that sheet iron, after strong heating and cooling, does not return to its original dimensions? It can swell, lose linearity, etc. The appearance of the stove becomes “very original” and far from the original.

But quite often, the metal oven heats up even more and turns bright red. This color appears at a heating temperature of +900°C. And this is already a high tempering, the metal becomes very soft and ductile, the phenomena of residual deformation increase significantly. The oven may warp, the welds may not withstand the resulting static forces. How to prevent such negative phenomena? It will not be possible to completely get rid of them, but there are ways to minimize them. They will help increase the operating time of a metal stove and improve the comfort of bathing procedures by increasing the time to maintain a favorable temperature in the room.

We are sure that this knowledge will help you minimize the negative consequences of heating the metal furnace too much. This can be done in two ways: by special preparation of the metal and by the features of the furnace device.

Metal pretreatment

After all the individual elements of the furnace have been cut out, the most heated parts must first be released. The sides and top parts and the firebox door heat up the most. Heat them in any way until red and cool slowly. After vacation, the sheets may warp a little, it's not scary, trim them with a hammer to their original state. Check the dimensions again, if they have changed within noticeable limits, cut to the desired parameters. This simple method will eliminate the warping of the stove during its operation.

Features of the design of the furnace of a metal furnace

Most metal stoves produce the maximum amount of heat in the minimum time, the wood burns out very quickly, the surfaces heat up to high temperatures. It is impossible to maintain a normal and stable temperature in the steam room - you often have to add firewood. The room is either too hot or too cold. Why is this happening? Such furnaces in most cases have grates. Their presence is justified in stone ovens, we have already mentioned that these ovens need to be heated quickly. Strong burning of the flame is provided by a large amount of air entering through the grate into the flame.

Grids are made from metal rods, sheet metal with numerous drilled holes or cast iron, they differ in the size of the holes, etc.

Firewood lies on the grate, the air supply is not regulated by anything, on the contrary, all measures are taken to increase traction, which automatically speeds up the combustion process. The upper part of the oven heats up the most, the sidewalls slightly less, and the bottom and front part heat up slightly.

Sheet steel prices

Sheet steel

Such a combustion mode has an extremely negative effect on both the duration of the operation of the stove and the comfort of staying in the steam room. You have to periodically fill the fire with water, if there is not enough water, the flame quickly flares up again, if there is a lot, the burning may stop altogether. In a word, a bathing day instead of pleasure brings a headache.

What do we offer? The solution is very simple - do not make grates with a blower, let the firewood lie at the bottom of the stove, and not on the grate. Seal the firebox door as much as possible; you can use asbestos cord or mineral wool around the perimeter.

Make holes in the firebox door with an ordinary movable damper to regulate the amount of air supplied. One bookmark of firewood in such an oven will burn for more than an hour, it is possible to regulate the temperature of heating surfaces. In addition, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stove will warm up. Due to the absence of a grate and an ash pan, work on the manufacture of the furnace was simplified, and efficiency and ease of use increased.

As you can see, all the knowledge came in handy for us, they can be used not only during the manufacture of the sauna stove. We have dealt with the theory, it's time to move on to practice.

Brief description and dimensions of the metal stove

Our design will have a separate tank for heating water and a heater built into the top of the stove. The flame heats the heater from all sides, which significantly increases the efficiency of the stove. You can take arbitrary sizes, consider the parameters of the steam room and the number of people washing at the same time. For example, we give the dimensions of our stove.

1. External stone. Width 50 cm, length 50 cm, height 80 cm.
2. Internal stone. Width 40 cm, length 40 cm, height 50 cm. The distance between the walls of the inner and outer heater is five centimeters around the perimeter.
3. Bake. Width 50 cm, length 90 cm, height 50 cm. You can change the length of the stove, make it only for an external heater 50 cm long (then the water tank will have to be mounted on stops from the side) or increase the length to increase the volume of the tank.
4. Water tank. Width 40 cm, length 50 cm, height 60 cm. 120 liters of water are placed in the tank, which is quite enough for washing three or four people. Of course, hot water must be diluted with cold.

Instructions for the manufacture of a metal furnace

Step 1. Prepare materials. For manufacturing, you need sheet steel, the thicker the better. But this can be very expensive, we recommend using sheets with a thickness of 1.5÷2.0 mm.

Metal sheets 2 mm

Step 2 Make a sketch of the stove, showing all dimensions and parts. Count the number of parts and their total area. This will help you decide on the need for sheet metal.

Scheme - an example of a sauna stove

Step 3 Transfer the dimensions to the metal, cut out all the elements of the furnace. Strictly observe the angles, they should be 90 °, make the opposite sidewalls as identical as possible. You need to cut metal with a circular grinder, follow the safety rules. The grinder is a very dangerous tool, you should not joke with it, as a result, you can get too severe injuries. Burrs after cutting the workpieces should be removed. Before starting welding, double-check the quantity and dimensions of all parts.

Furnace welding

Perform work on a flat area, free the workplace from foreign objects. Let's start with the manufacture of the heater for the stove.

Step 1. Place two sidewalls on the edge at a right angle, start making potholders.

Adjust the current strength, the electric arc should not overheat the metal - the seam will turn out to be uneven and fragile. Tack a few millimeters, 4 ÷ 5 tacks are enough for one corner. Constantly check the position of the sidewalls. After cooling, the weld leads the sheets to the side, align their position. Check the corners with a square. In the same way, grab the two remaining sides of the heater.

Step 2 Put the two prepared blanks together, adjust the corners if necessary and grab the opposite edges of the heater. You have got a heater box, it remains to make the bottom and the lid.

Four connected blank sheets forming a box

Step 3 Grab the bottom and lid. During manual cutting of blanks, it is impossible to achieve ideal dimensions, there will always be deviations. This is not scary, before tacking the bottom and cover, install them in such a way that the difference in dimensions is approximately the same on all sides. Slits of a few millimeters will weld without problems. To prevent the lid from falling into the box, put one side on any stand, as long as it is thin and does not disturb the desired position of the part. Make a few tacks on each side of the heater, as always, pay attention to the position of the elements and correct deviations if necessary.

For the bottom of the inner heater, it is better to take a sheet 10 mm thick. It accounts for the main “ular” of the flame, a too thin bottom can burn out quite quickly and smoke will begin to flow into the steam room. When the heater box is fully tacked, apply full seams.

Step 4. Make a door in the stove. Lay the box horizontally and make a markup. You can cut a hole with a grinder or welding.

In our version, the heater consists of two parts: internal and external. The outer one should have dimensions around the perimeter larger than the inner one by about 10 centimeters for the passage of flame and smoke into the chimney. The inner heater is installed in the outer one on pipes, the diameter of the pipes is arbitrary.

Step 5. Make holes in the lower part of the outer heater for pipes, on which the inner heater will stand. If you don't have pipes, you can use metal bars or rebar. Make sure that the holes are horizontal and at the same height on both sides of the sides of the outer heater.

In the same way, grab the outer heater, the furnace firebox and the water tank. Cut holes in the firebox for firewood. We recommend making holes in such a way that the cut parts of the sheet can be used as doors. To do this, make holes in the furnace 1 cm larger than in the heater, from this blank it will be possible to make a door to it - material is saved.

Video - Making a metal stove for a bath (part 1)

Assembly of individual elements of the furnace into a single structure

Step 1. Prepare four plates for welding two heaters. The dimensions of the plates along the length must correspond to the dimensions of the opening of the external heater.

Step 2 At the top of the outer heater, cut holes for the chimney. The dimensions of the hole must match the pipe you have and provide the necessary draft in the furnace.

Prices for chimney pipes

flue pipe

Step 3 Along the perimeter of the hole in the stove for the heater, weld metal strips about 2 centimeters high, the dimensions of the opening should correspond to the dimensions of the outer heater.

From the inside of the firebox, weld a corner 45 × 45 m, one side of the corner should go into the hole for the heater and form a square. The side of the square should be 0.5÷1 cm smaller than the dimensions of the heater. The structure will rest against these shelves in the furnace opening. To increase the sealing of the meta-installation of the heater, use sheet asbestos, cut out strips of two centimeters wide from it and place it between the bottom of the heater and the stops from the corner. Detachable connection will facilitate the installation of the stove in the steam room. The structures of the stove are made of thick steel, they are large in size and weight; it is impractical to weld the heater to the stove. It is much more convenient to make it collapsible / collapsible, this will facilitate transportation and installation.

Step 4 Weld the firebox door on the hinges. Double seam weld all pre-made designs. The seam is better to put outside and inside.

Step 5 Insert the inner heater into place, it should stand on the pipes and have a vertical position. Using the prepared plates, connect the holes of the inner and outer heaters. If the fastening of the internal heater is in doubt, fix it from above with pieces of metal, squares or fittings. These mounts will be hidden, you can use any metal scrap.

The hole is covered with a door. Asbestos cord around the perimeter of the door, the lid is bolted

Step 6 Weld the top cover of the outer heater. Cut a hole in it for the chimney pipe. Check the quality of all seams, correct gaps if necessary.

The stone is almost ready. The backwardness is only to make a technological hole for cleaning the soot falling from the pipe and to think over the installation of the furnace. Soot will accumulate on the lid of the inner heater. Make a hole on the side of the outer wall of the heater, close it with a bolted lid, use an asbestos cord to seal it. Gently grind all the corners with a grinder, remove the burrs.

We offer to install the oven on metal legs. The height of the legs is at least 40 centimeters, asbestos must be placed below, a metal sheet on top. These are fire safety regulations.

Video - Stove for a bath (stages of assembling a double heater and installing it on a welded combustion chamber)

Video - Sauna stove (final part)

We have already mentioned that each master in the course of manufacturing the stove can make his own changes and adjustments, taking into account his own preferences and the individual characteristics of the steam room. The changes concern not only the dimensions of the furnace, but also its design. We give a few hints for possible use.

It is better to make the legs in the form of a longitudinal slide - the pressure on the flooring is significantly reduced, the loads are distributed evenly over several floorboards. This is very important, the stove itself is quite heavy, and you also need to keep in mind the weight of stones and water. For the manufacture of legs, any available metal of suitable sizes is suitable, and for the sled, you can take a 50 × 50 mm square. The ends of the sled should not protrude beyond the perimeter of the stove, otherwise you can injure your legs.

Refractory bricks can be placed on the bottom and sides of the stove - the metal heats up less and the heat lasts longer. There are two types of refractory bricks: heat conductive (heavy) and heat insulating (light). The latter are used for laying smelting furnaces, they keep the surfaces cold, despite the huge temperature inside. Make no mistake, do not take such materials. A fire-resistant brick for a bath stove should conduct heat well, pay attention to this. If you plan to lay bricks, then increase the size of the firebox by the size of the brick.

Refractory brick prices

refractory brick

Firebox and heater doors can be made from plates obtained after cutting holes. To do this, make the cuts as even as possible, use thin discs to reduce the width of the slot. Working with them is more difficult and longer, but in the end you will still save time - you won’t have to waste it on making individual doors. It goes without saying that metal is also saved.

The dimensions of the doors will be smaller than the dimensions of the holes by the width of the cut, the doors can “fall through” into the firebox or heater. To exclude such situations, door stops should be welded on the reverse side of the holes. You can use narrow strips of metal. It is advisable to weld the stops around the entire perimeter of the holes, and not at several points, in this way you will increase the tightness of closing the doors.

It is better to make from stainless steel, for welding stainless steel you need to use special electrodes. Adjust the current of the welding machine specifically for stainless steel, remember that it is more difficult to cook it, some experience is required.

Prices for stainless steel tanks

stainless steel tank

If small children are washing in the bath, be sure to make a protective fence around the stove. It can be portable or stationary, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that the fence guarantees the safety of children.

If during the operation of the stove it turned out that its power is not enough to heat the room - do not be discouraged. The heat transfer performance of the stove can be significantly improved by increasing the effective area. Weld any metal plates on the sides and top, they will act as heat exchanger radiators. There is another way to increase heat transfer. To do this, you will need curved pipes with a diameter of about 50 centimeters. Weld them to the sides of the stove, one end of the pipe should be located under the stove, and the other above it. As a result of the temperature difference, draft will appear in the pipes, cold air is drawn in from the floor under the stove and thrown out hot above it. The stove will work on the principle of the Buleryan stove.

We recommend making an adjustable air supply on the firebox door. The easiest way is to make a blower from a pipe. You will need a piece of pipe ≈10 centimeters long and a piece of sheet metal of the same size. Make a hole in the middle of the door for the diameter of the pipe. From sheet metal, cut a circle with a diameter a few millimeters smaller than the nominal diameter of the pipe. Drill two holes in the walls of the pipe, they must lie strictly on the same line and on the axis of the pipe. The distance of the holes from the end of the pipe is at least half the diameter, otherwise the damper will not completely block the gap, which will impair the ability to adjust the amount of fresh air supply.

Insert a piece of wire rod of the appropriate diameter into the holes, bend the upper end in the form of a handle. Weld a circle cut out of sheet steel to the wire rod, fix the manufactured damper to the hole in the firebox door.

There is another way to make adjustable door openings. Drill holes with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm in the lower part, the centers of the holes should lie on the same line. Weld a metal plate from the bottom and top of the holes, the distance between the plates and the door should be equal to the thickness of the valve. The plates will serve as guides for the valve. Open one or more holes as needed during the firing of the stove.

These are not all possible improvements to a metal stove, think for yourself and engage in technical creativity. This process brings real pleasure, believe the professionals.

The choice and construction of a stove for your bathhouse should always be treated with a special attitude, since the stove is the most important part in the bathhouse, the heart. The sauna stove has a very specific application, it not only heats the steam room and gives steam - it can also heat the water tank.

Features and requirements

To the stove in the bath, as well as to any other equipment, certain requirements are imposed, not only because it should be a pleasure to use, but also because it can be a fire hazard.

• The furnace is installed on a separate foundation (except for mobile options).
• It must necessarily meet the requirements of tightness, ideally it should not have a single gap or crack.
• The wooden trim, which is located in the immediate vicinity of the stove, is treated with an antiseptic, and in order to ensure its fire safety, it is not advisable to sheathe it with a metal coating.
• It is necessary to maintain a safe distance from metal parts near the stove to any objects made of combustible materials (plastic, wood, and so on).
• The ash pan is placed so that its door is at least 15 cm from the floor level.
• The ceiling and top of the stove must be separated by at least half a meter of free space.
• The floor around the stove is sewn up with metal sheets.
• Usually the stove is located next to the dressing room.

The stove should heat the upper level in the steam room to a temperature of 80°C, for the lower zone the temperature should not fall below 45°C.

It is imperative that the stones are heated on the stove to form a sufficient amount of steam when they are spilled.

When solid fuel is used, it must burn completely. One more a prerequisite is the complete tightness of the chimney and the stove furnace so that it has a high efficiency.

Kinds

The stove heater can be closed or open type. A closed heater does not cool down for a longer period of time, but it will be possible to warm up the steam room for a longer time, and much more fuel will be spent. A closed heater is built in the case when the bath is used relatively rarely.

With an open-type heater, the steam room can be heated in a short time, but when water is poured on the stones, it quickly loses temperature. For any heater, it is recommended to use only solid parts of stone with rounded shapes.

Manufacturing materials

If they want to build a brick oven, it is advised to take certain grades, this is especially important when lining with refractories.

If we are talking about metal furnaces, they can be welded using sheets of metal, thick-walled pipes of large diameters, and used cylinders, and barrels, and sometimes such an exotic type of material as rims is used.

How to do it yourself?

To build a sauna stove on your own, you need to take into account any advice from an experienced craftsman. Before starting construction work, check out the completed options, drawings, find out how much the bath wall heats up from the stove. The type of fuel used to heat the steam room also occupies an important place - gas stoves are used somewhere due to the lack of other types of fuel.

The next step is to carry out foundation waterproofing work.

The foundation is poured 5–7 cm more than the vertical projection of the furnace walls.

In the fuel supply compartment, it is necessary to install grates to sift the ash and dump it.

With its help, the fuel burns better, it helps to warm up the bath. The distance from the firebox to the ash pan is from 30 centimeters or more. When the chimney is removed, it is necessary to install a slide gate (view) in the hood to adjust the hood.

brick oven

Despite the benefits during installation and the simplicity of the bath metal furnace, despite the speed of heating, almost any experienced stove-maker will advise only a brick stove. Practice shows that only such a stove will create a comfortable atmosphere in the steam room, it will be easy to breathe, it will not be difficult, the heat will be soft. The creation of soft heat is an undoubted advantage of any sauna stove made of bricks.

Separately, we can single out the possibility of the original design of such stoves - the invention of a good stove-maker knows no bounds.

Brick sauna stove is a classic kiln art.

A solid, but simple oven of classical design should approximately consist of the following elements:

• a furnace lined with refractories (bricks) or all built from them;
• an ash pan located under the furnace compartment;
• a cast-iron or steel grate on which stones are placed;
• chimney;
• coil;
• door.

The mass of a home-made brick sauna stove is very solid, so it is installed on a separate base. Bricks are not placed on mortar, only pure clay and sand are used here., since the resistance of the solution to temperature extremes is low, and this will ruin the bath stove in no longer than a year or two. To make the whole structure even more durable, the foundation is laid in a special way.

It is possible to lay out the stove using buta or carefully baked bricks. The wall thickness in this case is in the range of 13–25 cm. Pieces of rock weighing from 1 to 5 kg are used.

Important! For stones, granite, rubble rock, pebbles are taken into the heater. Flints cannot be used, they crack due to temperature changes and can cause serious injuries from flying fragments.

A homemade heater should properly accumulate and keep the temperature. For this, it is recommended to add cast iron ingots in a proportion of up to 20% to 80% of rock.

The boiler or water tank in the sauna stove can be supported either on the wall of the stove, or on supports / posts inside the furnace, another option is to hang it.

The grate for the stove can either be made of steel, of steel of considerable thickness, or purchased ready-made, cast from standard cast iron.

Metal variant

A home-made bath stove, for the manufacture of which an iron pipe was used, is a rather interesting option. It is easily manufactured and assembled in a short time. The only thing before you start, you need to choose a site where the location of the future stove will be planned.

To make the stove come out decent, you will have to use the following set of tools:

• grinder or grinder;
• apparatus for electric welding using electrodes D = 3.4 mm.

You will also need materials:

• one and a half meter pipe made of steel with a diameter of 50 cm and with a wall 1 cm thick;
• sheet iron 3–10 mm thick;
• fittings or twig 8–10 mm.

You will also have to do construction. It will be necessary to use building materials, namely:

• sand and gravel 0.1 m3;
• cement 150 kg;
• bricks in the amount of 300–400 pieces;
• clay.

The furnace has a considerable weight, therefore, under the place where it will be located, the foundation is being laid. To do this, the formwork is knocked down with dimensions of 1 x 1 m, a height of 30 cm. After the reinforcement is laid in one layer, in squares with a side of 20 cm, which are connected with a wire. To fix the reinforcement to the surface, 4 rods are driven into the ground and the reinforcement is tied to them so that there is a distance to the soil surface.

The next step is pouring the foundation.

The foundation has a high probability of cracking, therefore, for two weeks (the time of curing of the foundation material), a damp rag should be on its surface, which must be moistened periodically and not allowed to dry.

In order for the air in the room not to stagnate, ventilation is needed. To do this, open windows and doors.

Consider the manufacturing process in stages.

Stage I - preparatory

A one and a half meter steel pipe with a diameter of 50 cm and with a wall 1 cm thick is cut into two parts: the first is 60 cm, the second is 90 cm.

Stage II - construction

In the lower part of the cut of 90 cm, intended for the furnace compartment, an opening for the blower is cut out. It should be no narrower than 20 cm and no less than 6 cm in height. Above the opening, a round steel plate is welded, less than 1.2 cm thick.

Then a grate opening is cut out and 4 “lugs” are welded to fix it. Next is cutting a niche for the firebox. The remaining piece of pipe can be used to make a furnace door. Its size is 25 x 30 cm. When the door is ready, it is hung on hinges and a latch is attached to it.

For the manufacture of a heater, a section of the same pipe 30–35 cm long is suitable. The heater is welded onto the top of the furnace and another opening is made 25 x 30 cm in size.

A steel coupling is installed to the top of the furnace. It will serve as a fastener on which the hot water tank is installed.

Stage III - intermediate

The water tank is made from a cut of 60 cm. The bottom is welded to the end of this cut. Metal for the bottom is used with a thickness of 8 mm. A round opening with a diameter of 15 cm is cut through it to install a chimney. The hole must be shifted towards the rear wall of the tank. The chimney is welded tightly, without gaps, to the bottom of the tank in order to prevent water from flowing. The tank is closed with a metal lid with holes made into which the chimney passes and water is added.

A steel square of a platform with a side of 30 cm is welded to the chimney, at a level of 5 cm above the edge of the water tank, in order to install a brick pipe. It is brought out vertically through the ceiling and roofing.. A valve is equipped in a brick pipe.

When they talk about home-made stoves for a bath, they usually mean metal products, because they haven’t learned how to make bricks industrially, so in any case, it’s handmade. Although brick units are good for a bath, but with the modern rhythm of life, not everyone can (or want to) wait half a day until the steam room reaches the required temperature and “is infused”. We are used to getting everything quickly and immediately. An hour or two is the maximum time that we can wait before the start of the procedures. That is why metal furnaces have replaced brick ones, although, of course, they also have their fans, but in this article we will talk exclusively about metal or symbiosis - a metal core in a brick sarcophagus.

Homemade stoves for a bath, maybe not beautiful, but reliable

If we talk about the aesthetic side of the issue, of course, the factory ones are more beautiful. Although the aesthetics are different for everyone, in general, factory products look neater. It must also be said that serious manufacturers are constantly conducting research, modifying old models, and developing new ones. If you've already bought a stove, this is unlikely to make you happy in any way, but if you are only looking after a stove, this can be useful - modified models are usually really better than prototypes. And some new developments are an option and can be installed on any units, sometimes even from another manufacturer.

There are, of course, factory furnaces cons. The very first - good ovens have a high price. The second disadvantage is that they are often made of thin metal. And it is these ovens that are usually in the segment of budget ovens. And thin metal in the baths burns out quickly. The third drawback is that you are forced to adapt to the existing design. If the stove is purchased during the construction process, this is not scary, but if it changes, this can become a problem. You will have to look for a unit with the same dimensions or rebuild / redo the premises.

The advantage of homemade bath stoves is their reliability. They are usually brewed “for themselves”, and if for sale, then more often also “as for themselves”, therefore thick metal is used - certainly not thinner than 6 mm. The relatively low price can also be attributed to the positive aspects, especially if you know how to cook metal yourself. Not everyone likes the look, it’s definitely not for everyone, but often these stoves are hidden behind a brick screen, so the appearance is far from always important.

Appearance is not the strongest part of homemade sauna stoves

As for innovations and improvements, they are usually borrowed from factory developments. Craftsmen do not need to model processes using complex programs. They looked in the store at the finished product or even at the photo, and already have an idea of ​​​​how the device works, what it does, and how to make it. Not everyone, of course, is capable of this, but many are. So there are also enough interesting technical solutions in home-made stoves.

What are metal homemade stoves made of?

Sauna stoves are made not only from sheet metal, but also from thick-walled pipes of large diameter, from gas cylinders, barrels, even from rims.

What is better? It's hard to say for sure, each of the materials has positive and negative sides. So when using pipes, barrels, cylinders, etc. one of the main problems of welded furnaces - the destruction of the seams - is minimized. It is in the seams that the burning and destruction of the metal most often begins. In production, this problem is circumvented by making the upper part of the furnace bent, without welds. In an ordinary workshop, you are unlikely to be able to bend metal with a thickness of 6-8-10 mm. or a balloon - and the problem is solved automatically: the seams are minimal.

One of the options for a homemade stove in the bath

Another plus of using a pipe, a cylinder - the firebox is almost ready, there are minor improvements. Therefore, it takes little time to produce. Another plus is that even not the most experienced welders are able to make the necessary minimum of seams. It also increases the popularity gas bottle stoves or pipes.

On the other hand, you are limited by the available dimensions and forced to place all the parts in the already existing volume. The same applies to sizes - you enter the dimensions that are available. From this point of view, sheet metal has advantages: you yourself set the geometric parameters of the furnace, adjusting to the conditions in the steam room and / or rest room.

For baths and saunas

To understand well the key difference between bath and sauna stoves, you just need to have a good idea of ​​the air conditions under which you soar in one and the other case.

What should be a homemade sauna stove

Our sauna is also often referred to as a dry-air sauna. This is because in the sauna they steam at high temperatures - 80 ° C and above, sometimes over a hundred. At this temperature, high humidity is impossible - just get burned. It is in the range of 5-15%. The task of a homemade sauna stove is to quickly and efficiently raise the temperature to the required value. This task is pursued when developing the design: they improve convection (air movement) along the walls so that heat is quickly spread throughout the room. Since high humidity is not needed, the heater is made small and open - it is usually located above the firebox. The heating temperature of the stones in this case is about 200-250°C. This is enough to evaporate a ladle of water, and more is not needed - and it will be too hot.

For faster heating, additional ribs are welded onto the furnace body. This increases the area that gives off heat, the steam room heats up faster. But to make everything happen even more dynamically, a convector screen is placed around the case. It is located at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the body. It does not connect to the body at the top and bottom, there is a gap. Colder air near the floor is drawn into it, rises along the wall, takes away part of the heat and carries it through the upper gap into the room. This process is called convection, and ovens are called convection.

What is the difference between a stove for a Russian steam room

In a Russian steam room, you need to create a completely different atmosphere. The temperature should be in the region of 50-60 ° C, it can rise to 70 ° C for a short time, and it is believed that the steam room has been heated. At the same time, the humidity should be high - 50-60%, and the walls - warmed up. Under this condition, sweat is also actively released, but the load on the body is far from being as serious as in the sauna.

To solve the problems that bathing stoves face, its design must be different. First of all, a very well heated surface is needed, from which a large volume of steam can be obtained. The amount of water poured out per session is calculated in liters, and all of it must be evaporated. And not just turn into steam, but into finely dispersed steam (from very small droplets), dry and light. With the correct organization of the steam room (), steam is collected at the top, under the ceiling. That is where the temperature is highest. This steam is “taken out” from under the ceiling with brooms and driven along the body, causing those same pleasant sensations.

Stones are mainly used to generate steam. But they are not stacked on top of the stove, as in sauna stoves, but inside the firebox, in a closed or open box - a heater that is heated on fire. The volume of stones, in principle, the more the better, but only on the condition that the stove has enough power to heat both the steam room and the heater to the required temperatures. Although with homemade stoves, there is usually an overabundance of power, not a lack of it.

More often, the heater is closed, when it is open, soot and soot fly out with the steam, and this is not exactly what you want ... To make it more convenient to give steam to the stones, insert a tube inside, through which water is poured.

These devices are also called a steam gun. Because when water is supplied, a loud sound is heard, very similar to a shot. By the way, you should immediately withdraw your hand, the steam may not be visible if it is really very small, but the temperature jumps instantly. And its main peak is just above the neck of the steam gun.

Some, by the way, put not only stones into the heater, and sometimes not stones at all - cast-iron or stainless bars or balls. The metal has a much higher heat capacity and "gaining" more temperatures. With the same bookmark volume, you can get much more steam. Only the bookmark should be, as with stones, from small fragments laid with a gap. So hot air will flow normally.

Another important point: the furnace should have the ability to adjust the intensity of combustion. The easiest way is a damper on the chimney and a retractable ash pan. With their help, they increase / decrease the air supply to the furnace, activating or “choking” combustion. But such an adjustment is quite rough and the fire and temperature are difficult to control. For finer adjustment, latches are added to the doors.

There are two designs - one is standard, which can be found on standard furnace casting, the second is borrowed from Canadian ones. It is a metal cup welded to the door, in which the gate rotates. As with a gate on a pipe, it must have clearance to ensure minimum thrust even in the closed position.

The next nuance is the radiation from the furnace walls. If the metal walls of the oven are open, you will not keep the temperature in the steam room around 60 ° C. In order not to overheat the steam room, they fold around the furnace body. It no longer applies to the design of the furnace, but it must be taken into account when developing your furnace. Firstly, the metal covered by the screen overheats and burns out faster. If you want the stove to last longer, use thick metal, especially at the top of the firebox and on the back wall. These are the two hottest zones in which homemade stoves burn out most often.

Another option that works well, but is complicated and expensive to perform, is facing the surface of the furnace with bath stone. It perfectly absorbs the hard radiation of the metal, transforming it into a soft and pleasant one.