Damp and cold garage - not the most the best place for car maintenance. The owner is provided with problems with the technical condition of all its units. Accumulating condensate will ruin not only the car body, but also the electrical wiring.

Through the doorway, the main percentage of heat is lost. Swing design made of steel has a high thermal conductivity, so the insulation of garage doors will be a good solution. Dealing with walls and roofs is a little easier than insulating Garage Doors. To do the work yourself, you will have to study the methods and materials.

Along with the direct purpose, the garage is used as a workshop. In the cold season, even a short stay in the garage will require great willpower. It is convenient to do it in the garage with your own hands minor repairs and good ventilation is essential here. Basement smell, fungus and mold on the walls are not all troubles. Staying in such a room is life-threatening. Often openings for supply ventilation leave it at the gate. On the topic of how to insulate the gate in the garage, there is a useful video at the end of our article.

Important! Ventilation openings must be left in the thickness of the insulation.

Buying a finished product

If you decide to install a factory-made structure in your garage, then the problems of how to insulate the gate will end there. New lift-and-swivel and sectional devices already have a layer of polyurethane foam. Even roller shutter types of gates are sometimes insulated, but the possibility of using them for a garage is very doubtful. Narrow aluminum lamellas will not be reliable protection against burglary, and their high thermal conductivity makes them unsuitable for our climate.
When ordering a gate, good option will swing system with a gate. It will significantly reduce the percentage of heat loss.

Choose your heater wisely

The range is wide enough. From what you can insulate garage doors, the most in demand:

• Various types of foams;
• Fibrous insulation (glass wool, stone wool, basalt wool).

To make a choice, it is necessary to take into account all the pros and cons of materials.

Styrofoam door insulation

Styrofoam - very economical option. The class of foamed polymers is quite diverse. They have a gas-filled structure and differ in the type of polymer. Consider the types of foams:

1. Polystyrene - the most used. They have the designation PSB or PSB-S. Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) - has a small hygroscopicity and good fire resistance. Do-it-yourself garage door insulation is one of the best options.
2. Polyvinylchloride or PVC panels. Similar in characteristics to EPSS. International PVC marking. High fire resistance.
3. Urea-formaldehyde foam (UFP). Used for voids and cavities. The liquid composition of CFP does not increase in volume after complete drying. It can also be used as a garage heater.
4. Polyurethane foam (PPU). It is produced in the form of elastic foam rubber and polyurethane foam. Rigid polyurethane foam perfectly binds to any surface. Good hydro and heat insulator. Fire resistant. Such insulation will have a small weight and will suit any finish. Polyurethane foam will perfectly cope with the thermal insulation of garage doors. A sprayer is used to apply the foam.

Fiber materials

Among fibrous heaters, we immediately exclude stone wool and slag wool. The first is extremely harmful to humans, slag will oxidize the metal surface. Glass wool is dangerous in work, but of all it has an average hygroscopicity. It is this quality that makes the use of cotton wool not successful for garages. The accumulation of condensate in a layer of material will reduce its thermal insulation properties. With a vapor barrier film, you can use basalt insulation.

The process of warming the garage from the inside

To insulate the garage door, you will need the following tools:

• Electric drill;
• Drills for wood and metal;
• Hacksaw or electric jigsaw for wood;
• Metal brush or nozzle on a drill (korshchetka);
• Screwdriver.

Also, do not forget about a tape measure, a paint brush, a hammer, a corner and a ruler, a sharp knife, a core, sandpaper and clamps.
Clamp - a tool for clamping parts. It will be convenient for them to attract the slats to the gate frame.

The order of work will depend on the insulation and type of construction.

We prepare the sashes

1. Cleaning

Delete old paint, rust and all contamination. Conveniently and quickly this is done with a power tool with a nozzle.

2. Priming

The applied primer will protect the metal from corrosion. To work, take a wide paint brush. Anti-corrosion primer is applied in two layers. One across and the other along the surface.

3. Elimination of gaps between the frame and the canvas

Take advantage rubber seal. It will not interfere with the operation of the mechanism and close the extra holes.
Next, we will consider how to insulate garage doors from the inside.

We isolate the swing gates with foam plastic.

Swing gates are durable, reliable and easy to use. The system consists of two steel sashes welded onto a frame from a profile pipe or angle. Sometimes corrugated board is used, but a steel sheet 2-3 mm thick is stronger.

It is good when the swing gates are insulated by their manufacturer. Otherwise, garage doors can be insulated on their own.
After choosing the material, you should calculate how much it is required. You also need to decide on the finish on top of the insulation. The final version with different types gate trim can be seen in the video. There are many options for sheathing garage doors.

Types of facing materials:

• Lining;
• Decking;
• Fiberboard or MDF panels;
• Waterproof plywood;
• OSB or OSB boards.

As experience has shown, the latter are more suitable for sheathing. OSB boards are boards made of glued and pressed sawdust and wood chips. If you look at the photo of the product, you can see its composition from several layers. Layers have different arrangement, which gives the sheets special strength and flexibility. This finish is easy to process, has low vapor permeability and is very economical.

Advice! For rooms with a high degree of humidity, use OSB-3 or OSB-4 boards with a width of 10 mm.

The cladding will be fixed to wooden frame. The crate is mounted around the entire perimeter and on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe canvas. For fastening wooden frame galvanized wood screws are used.
3.5*30 mm - for side surfaces
4.5 * 70 mm - for the end

Attention! If the gate frame is made of profile pipes, then the length of the screws increases by an amount equal to the cross section of the pipe.

To fix the finishing plates to the crate, take screws with a press washer 4.2 * 32 mm.
Insulation plates are laid between the crate. The foam is attached to a special glue or professional mounting foam. If working with foam, after application, wait 5-10 minutes until the composition has increased in volume. The main thing is to avoid empty spaces. The slabs must be tightly packed between the grating slats. Treat the smallest cracks with sealant. Leave the places for mounting locks, latches and ventilation free.

Laying a waterproofing

We install waterproofing between the metal and the insulation. It can be bituminous mastic, foil, vapor barrier membrane. Extruded polystyrene foam does not require waterproofing.

After installing the insulation, proceed to the cladding. OSB is cut with a hacksaw or a power tool. The fastening step is 10-15 cm along the perimeter of the frame, and 20-25 cm along the horizontal bars and in the center. To prevent the wooden blocks from splitting, mark the holes with a thin drill. To achieve the best fit of the gate or gate, you can additionally seal these places with tape.
Finished in this way, the garage will have a very neat appearance.

We carry out thermal insulation with mineral wool

If you have chosen this material, then a vapor barrier layer will be required. The waterproofing can be simple polyethylene film. A frame is also needed, between which the insulation fits tightly. Plates are fixed on the sides with dowels. As a lining of the gate, you can choose a lining. Fasten it to the crate of the structure.

Warming the garage from the inside with construction foam

Another method of insulating garage doors with your own hands is polyurethane foam. From what you can insulate garage doors with your own hands - this is the easiest way.

• Polyurethane foam in cylinders (consumption of 5 cylinders per 7m2).
• Spray foam evenly (cut off excess material after drying with a sharp knife)
• Decorative finish (the lining can be chipboard, lining or any other material).

The advantages of insulating garage doors with your own hands using foam is the penetration of the material even into small cracks. This will also strengthen the entire structure of the gate.

The quality of garage door insulation depends on the safety of your premises and vehicle in proper condition. And also safety depends on.

Condensation forms when the room temperature changes, which contributes to the formation of corrosion. High humidity undesirable for electrical wiring, as well as car interior trim. Warming the garage, including the gate, will help keep the car in good condition for as long as possible.

Not in the best way moisture also affects the building itself: a fungus can start in its corners, plaster can crack and collapse. Condensation is especially dangerous for wood paneling or beams that are prone to rotting. In the cold season, it can accumulate on the walls and ceiling, which is why in the spring the humidity of the room rises sharply.

The choice of thermal insulation material

For the insulation of garage doors, a combination of materials is most often selected, one of which serves as a heat insulator, and the second prevents the penetration of cold air.
Important! For garage door heaters are presented special requirements. Due to the increased fire hazard of the premises, they must have enough a high degree fire resistance. An undesirable factor is also water permeability, as well as the ability of the material to accumulate moisture, which can lead to the appearance of fungus.

As a heater can be used:
stone wool;
fiberglass materials;
non-combustible polymers (having the letter “C” in the marking, self-extinguishing).

For cladding cement-bonded, glass-magnesium or fire-resistant boards can be used wood boards with a special impregnation that reduces their flammability. If a waterproofing layer is not provided in the insulation, it is better to lay a non-combustible reinforced film or building foil between the insulation layer and the cladding.

Stone (basalt) wool
This is a fibrous fire-resistant material with sufficiently high sound and heat insulation properties and high wear resistance. It has a low degree of water absorption and is not able to absorb moisture. The high environmental friendliness of the material allows it to be used for finishing any kind of premises.

Basalt (stone) wool with foil waterproofing

Styrofoam
Styrofoam is a fairly strong and lightweight insulation with a low degree of vapor absorption, and when fire retardant additives are introduced into it, its ability to burn becomes minimal. It can be operated in a wide temperature range: from +60 to -50°C.


Styrofoam as a heater

Styrofoam
The material, in fact, is one of the types of foam and has a similar composition, but its density is higher, and the thermal conductivity is much lower. The degree of flammability of expanded polystyrene is indicated on the marking: for finishing the garage, it is advisable to choose material grades NG (non-flammable) or G1 (moderately combustible). The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene include a low degree of protection from ultraviolet radiation, so it must be reliably protected from sunlight.


Styrofoam

Liquid penoizol (carbamide foam)
Outwardly similar to expanded polystyrene, it belongs to the combustibility groups G-2 and G-1 and is made from thermosetting resins that do not support combustion. Manufacturers claim that its thermal insulation properties are 1.5 times higher than expanded polystyrene. The foam coming out of the cylinder sleeve is able to fill all the air gaps. After 10-15 min. it seizes, then hardens for about 3-4 hours. This material acquires its final strength only after 2-3 days.


Penoizol

Important! To insulate metal gates that quickly heat up in the sun, do not use self-igniting heaters made from natural fabrics and cotton wool, cheap types of foam, etc.

Dew point
The dew point is the temperature at which water vapor becomes most saturated and condenses.. It appears only at the border of hot-cold. When insulated, the position of the dew point shifts: if the thickness thermal insulation material sufficient, then it will be inside him. The wall remains dry.
If it is heated, and the thickness of the walls is insufficient to retain heat, then it must also be insulated from the outside: in this case, the dew point moves to outer insulation. Naturally, when interior decoration garage second dew point will also appear indoors. However, with such an additional restriction of access to moisture and cold, the temperature difference will already be insignificant, therefore, if there is sufficient ventilation, the amount of condensate in the room will already be minimal.


Dew point in a heated room
The temperature difference will not be too large when finishing an unheated room: the insulation becomes a barrier that prevents the penetration of excess moisture into the room in the warm season and protects it from cold winds in winter.

Manufacturing of crates

For reliable fixation of the insulation and subsequent fastening of the skin, it is necessary to first make a crate. It is mounted to the power elements: stiffeners and the edge of the gate using self-tapping screws or screws. Can be used as a frame wooden blocks impregnated with flame retardant solution, or thin metal profiles.


Lathing installation

Insulation installation

To prevent condensation on the gate, it is better to work in dry and sunny weather. Before starting installation, clean and cover all cracks and treat the metal surface with an anti-corrosion primer. The gates, on which a layer of bituminous insulation is applied, will be ideally sealed.

insulation cut into so that its parts fit as tightly as possible between the bars of the crate. He fastened via liquid nails or special mounting adhesive. To exclude the possibility of condensation, the seal must be pressed as tightly as possible to the base and not have cavities. All joints between it are carefully filled with mounting foam, which, when expanded, will burst the insulation and give the structure additional strength.

Basalt wool is laid overlap. Laying of waterproofing materials (reinforced film or foil) is also carried out with a 2 cm approach to the adjacent strip. To ensure ventilation in several places, a small air gap is left between it.

Reading time ≈ 12 minutes

Most of the happy owners of a private space for their car are wondering how to insulate the garage door from the inside with their own hands, and there are reasons for this. Now it is very rare to find wooden sashes - a steel sheet is much more reliable and durable, but it's no secret to anyone that when you enter, on metal with inside you can see frost, and sometimes even frost. This is understandable, because the metal has a very high thermal conductivity - 50 W / (m K), and different wood from 0.18 to 0.25 W / (m K), that is, two times less.

The choice of insulation

Before undertaking the insulation of the garage door, you need to choose the right insulating material, as in this case not all of them can be used. Certainly this interior work, but in most cases garages are classified as premises with high humidity. Perhaps this will surprise someone, but the humidity there is the same as outside, with the exception of precipitation.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced in mats and rolls, with and without foil coating.

The term "mineral wool" refers to three different, albeit similar in structure, insulators. But they are made from different raw materials, therefore, they have different characteristics so let's take a closer look at them.

glass wool

This is what glass looks like

For the manufacture of such insulation, a melt of broken glass is usually used, or the materials from which it is obtained, but the technology here is somewhat changing. Substance molten up to 1400°C ( liquid glass) is placed in a centrifuge and under pressure inflated with steam, turning into the thinnest threads. Then they are treated with a phenol-aldehyde polymer and then the alignment process takes place on the conveyor. In fact, it is highly resistant to humid air and has a thermal conductivity of 0.03 to 0.052 W/m K.

Having learned about such characteristics, the car owner may decide to use it for his garage, but it would be wrong not to mention other aspects of such a material. Any glass, not to mention fluffed glass, belongs to fragile instances and glass wool fibers, despite the addition of a polymer, are extremely brittle and the laying of the material is accompanied by glass dust. Getting on skin tissues, it causes irritation and itching, affects the eyes and respiratory organs (not fatal, but terribly unpleasant). Hence, installation work it can only be carried out in overalls with long sleeves, a hat, gloves, a respirator and goggles.

slag wool

Slag tends to have the dirty color of blast-furnace slag

It is obtained from blast-furnace slag melts, where, as you understand, metal is smelted and the fibers that make up the mat or roll are also saturated with residual iron particles. If we talk about thermal conductivity, then this indicator is approximately the same as that of glass wool and ranges from 0.046 to 0.048 W / m K, and if it comes only from these parameters, then such insulation can be used, but ... Its hygroscopicity has a coefficient of 1.9, that is, 1.9%/hour of the total mass. This is a lot, in addition, small particles of iron corrode from which the insulation sags and loses its protective qualities. Currently, it is used very rarely, and even then, only in dry rooms.

Stonewool

Basalt wool in mats and rolls with foil

Stone wool is very often called basalt wool, as it is produced from melts of hardened volcanic rocks, that is, basalt. It is worth paying attention to this material right away. First, for self-laying from protective equipment only gloves are needed, and even then some neglect them (everyone's skin is different). Secondly, it practically does not react to moisture (does not lose its qualities). Thirdly, the thermal conductivity of basalt wool, depending on the density and manufacturer, ranges from 0.031 to 0.041 W / m K. In fact, this is the most the best way of the three products.

Testing mineral wool from different manufacturers

Styrofoam

Material such as polystyrene is known to most people.

This is expanded polystyrene, known in the same way as, and most often, as foam. Its marking may differ in abbreviation, it is PSB or PSB-S, where the letter “C” indicates that PSB is treated with a fire retardant and is a self-extinguishing or non-combustible material. It differs in bulk density (kg / m 3), these are PSB-S-15, PSB-S-25 and PSB-S-35, where the thermal conductivity is 0.045 W / m K, 0.041 W / m K and 0.038 W / m K, respectively. In the domestic sphere, they are limited to 15th and 25th panels, of which the first are somewhat cheaper, but when cutting from the bottom, there is a lot of garbage in the form of crumbling electrified granules that stick to hands, a brush or a broom. If we talk about garage doors, then the 25th foam plastic is an excellent material for insulation, especially since it can simply be glued with mounting foam.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam, also known as EPPS, PENOPLEX and TECHNONICOL

Visually, in structure, it is very similar to polystyrene, but is produced by extrusion, that is, the plastic is passed through an extruder with the addition of a foaming agent and molded into panels of the desired thickness, where, as a rule, there is a one-sided chamfer around the perimeter. I want to answer right away to people who either do not understand or deliberately denigrate this insulation, arguing that it absorbs moisture faster than polystyrene foam and mineral wool, and so, its vapor permeability is only 0.011-0.0128 mg / (m * h * Pa), and when completely immersed in water, 0.2-0.4% of the total specific gravity.

The density of the same TECHNONICOL (although other brands practically do not differ) is from 25 to 45 kg / m 3, so panels with a 45th density are used to warm runways, and even the lowest 25th density can be walked in shoes for fear of technical damage. On average, the thermal conductivity of EPPS is 0.029-0.034 W / m K, and this is the most best indicator of all materials used in construction. The only drawback is the higher cost than other heaters, but this is fully offset by its advantages. So there is no better option for garage doors and doors!

Insulation of metal garage doors

We turn to the instructions, do-it-yourself garage doors from the inside, and in order not to dwell on the description of each detail separately, which is more necessary for teenagers than for car owners, we will dwell on the main points of insulation. This will include:

• what other materials will be needed;
• selection necessary tools for work;
• how to prepare sashes;
• installation of the crate;
• installation of a heater;
• black trim on the inside.

What other materials will be needed

With a heater, everything is clear - choose it yourself, but in addition to this, you will need other materials:

• bars 50 × 50 mm, but you can change the section along the thickness of the insulation:
• rough sheathing: plywood, OSB (optional);
• dye;
• wood screws;
• mounting foam;
• reinforcing adhesive if mineral wool is used.

Tools

In fact, tools can be selected even for a non-electrified garage, but if there is ̴220 V, then some can be replaced:

• screwdriver with nozzles and drills;
• wood saw;
• metal brush;
• paint knife;
• paint brush;
• tape measure, pencil.

How to prepare sashes

In this case, everything is simple - you need to get rid of everything that can interfere with adhesion during the installation of insulation, and the most difficult thing is to remove the swelling paint on the metal. This is best done with a metal brush (if you use sandpaper, then spend a lot of extra time). Remove only the paint that does not hold well - or is swollen or cracked. After that, clean the canvas from oil stains - gasoline or diesel fuel, which no doubt can be found in any garage, is quite suitable for this.

Now about the slats, and here you can go in two ways - to strengthen the bars unpainted or paint the second option better than the first anyway. It doesn’t matter what the paint will be, as long as it is on wood - even an antiseptic or glyphthalium paint will do (GF is usually used as a primer). But it is better to do this a day or two before the start of work, so that the paint dries out - this measure is needed to protect the wood.

Lathing installation

Installation wooden crate from the inside

Any garage door has stiffeners and most often, these are corners of 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm, but tubular profiles of rectangular or square section can also be used. But in this case, on the part of technology, this does not change anything, except that the second option will slightly complicate the task in technical terms. In order to fix the bars on a metal sheet, holes must be drilled in these ribs, the diameter of which depends on the diameter of the self-tapping screws. The distance between the holes is 40-50 cm, but they are required along the edges of the profile. On diagonal edges mounting holes are not needed, since the rails will not be there.

Try to adjust and screw the bars so that there are no gaps at the joints (they are usually at the corners), but if this happens, then do not be too upset - you can always blow them out with mounting foam. In the case when the stiffeners are made of a very wide profile, for example, 40 × 60 mm, welded flat, then it will be more difficult to cope with the task, and if this confuses you, go the other way.

Mounting holes can be drilled through the sheet and the rails can be screwed on from the outside, but for this you will definitely need self-tapping screws for wood with a stainless coating - they are either white or yellow.

Note. This applies to those who intend to work not with an electric drill, but with a screwdriver. You will have to drill about 80-100 holes, and if the batteries are weak, then in cold weather, even without frost, even 2 pieces will not be enough for you. If the work will be done with cordless drills such as Bosch or Makinfa, then one battery is enough for such a load.

Insulation installation

Now the most important thing is to accurately cut the insulation, especially when there is a diagonal stiffener on the sash, but for this you have a paint knife and a tape measure. It doesn’t matter which side to start the installation from, right or left, bottom or top - the most important thing is to start from a larger panel or even from a whole one, for example, from 1000 × 1000 mm foam or 1200 × 600 mm EPS, but here already, “ how the card will fall. It is best to cut foam, polystyrene or mineral wool under a ruler - an even object of this length is usually found in every garage if it is used not only for storing potatoes, but also for cars and various repairs for home.

Glue well replaces mounting foam

Try on the desired fragment at the installation site and make sure that you cut it to size - if it turned out to be larger, then you can cut it, and if it is smaller, you can blow out a gap of up to 15 or even 20 mm with mounting foam. If the gap is even larger, then it is better to close it with strips of the same material. Lay the fragment on the floor and apply several strips of foam on it at a distance of no more than 10 cm, although even smaller and around the perimeter is better. Then put it in the right place and hold for 20-30 seconds (usually this is enough).

When you make sure that it does not fall off, start measuring the next fragment, and after cutting it, again apply foam and glue it to the right place and so on until the very end, until you completely close the sash. The stiffening ribs will remain open, and these are effective cold bridges, therefore, blow out these gaps, as well as all remaining gaps, with mounting foam.

Note. In the event that the insulation will be made with mineral wool, you will need a special reinforcing adhesive. But when the mineral wool is foiled, then you can go the other way - stick it on the foil with mounting foam.

Rough skin

Sheathing the gate in the garage from the inside of the OSB

The simplest part of the work remains - sheathing the inside on top of the insulation with some kind of sheet material. Most likely, it will be grade 3 oriented strand board or laminated or moisture resistant plywood. To cut such large panels, you will need at least two stools, although if there is a pit in the garage, then this is the best option in any case. Mark the sheet, lay it so that the part to be cut is above the pit and saw. Then screw it with wood screws to the crate, making sure that all joints adjoin as tightly as possible. Everything.

Note. If desired, instead of sheet material you can use wooden lining and if you are interested aesthetic side question, this is the best option.

Video with insulation of old garage doors

Conclusion

Well, what do you think, is it difficult or easy to insulate the garage door from the inside with your own hands? Most likely the latter, but this will require at least a whole day, not counting the purchase of materials. Nevertheless, special skill is not needed here, and even when a person has not been engaged in similar work, he can do it!

Motorists traditionally spend a lot of time in the garage, caring for their "iron horses". However, in winter it is extremely uncomfortable to do the usual work, and sooner or later the owners face the question of warming. This measure allows you to solve the problem radically, since heat escapes very quickly through the door leaf (and usually steel sheets). Garage insulation not only creates comfortable conditions for its owner, but also allows:

• start the car faster in severe frosts;
• extend the life of rubber parts;
• prevent the appearance of condensate in the internal cavities of the machine;
• create the desired temperature regime in a vegetable store, which are often combined with garages.

The possibility of insulating garage doors depends on their design.

Which gates can be insulated

Most gates have hinged leaves, which are steel sheets welded to metal frame. Insulation of such gates is mandatory, since they practically do not retain heat. It's easy to make it simple design hinged gate allows you to use materials of any thickness.

Overhead and sectional garage doors are very popular these days. As a rule, they are factory-made. The door leaf or individual sections are sandwich panels. WITH outside they are covered with sheet steel, and from the inside they are already insulated with foamed polyurethane and do not need special measures for additional insulation. lifting gate, made by hand, insulate in the same way as swing ones. The thickness of the insulation for them should not go beyond the dimensions of the frame. The same rule applies to rollbacks.

Roller shutters are not subject to insulation, as their design is designed for a certain thickness.

When choosing a material for insulation, it is necessary to take into account its weight. The weighting of the leaves can lead to the fact that the mechanism by which the gate moves begins to work worse over time and gradually fails.

The most popular insulation materials

A good insulation should have low thermal conductivity, then it is enough thin layer can significantly reduce heat loss. The following materials are most often used to insulate garage doors:

All foams have qualities that are indispensable for the insulation of garage doors - low thermal conductivity and hygroscopicity, fire safety, chemical inertness.

How to insulate garage doors

Before starting work on insulation, it is necessary to check the operability of the ventilation in the garage. In the process, do not block the ventilation holes with insulation. Normal operation of ventilation contributes to a decrease in humidity and the timely removal of gasoline vapors and exhaust gases.

We will analyze in detail how to insulate garage doors on their most common design - swing.

Surface preparation

Carefully inspect the inside surface of the door leaf. Large areas affected by corrosion are cleaned with an iron bristle brush. If rust has covered most of the steel sheet, it is more convenient and faster to work with a drill or grinder with a special round nozzle.

After thorough cleaning of rust and degreasing, an anti-corrosion primer is applied.

Fabrication and installation of the crate

Wooden blocks are used as crates or aluminum profile. Fasten the crate to the gate frame. The material for the crate is cut to size. wooden blocks impregnated with a composition of double action - from fire and decay. The elements of the batten are attached to the frame of the sashes with screws of suitable length. All accessories for door leaf- locks, ventilation holes, trimmed with a crate around the perimeter.

Waterproofing and laying insulation

Before you insulate the gate in the garage, you need to observe some of the subtleties of handling this material. Of all its varieties, it is better to stop at basalt wool from well-known manufacturer. Before laying cotton wool, you should take care of waterproofing so that the material does not absorb moisture. Nice results gives a coating of the inner side of the gate with bitumen-polymer mastic or finishing with self-adhesive material such as "Izolon".

After all the metal parts of the gate are covered with waterproofing, the insulation is cut into pieces of such a size that it exceeds the distance between the bars of the crate by several centimeters. This is done so that cracks do not appear, since mineral wool caking over time.

It is most convenient to cut the insulation like this: spread it on the floor fiberboard sheet, roll out mineral wool on it, measure it and hold it with a sharp clerical knife with force.

A vapor barrier film is stretched over the mineral wool and attached to the bars with a construction stapler. After vapor barrier already insulated swing gates ready for final finishing. The cladding is made of plastic or wooden clapboard, corrugated board, OSB sheets. fastened facing material to the bars with screws with a press washer.

Laying insulation around the perimeter of the gate

Gate leaves very rarely adjoin closely to each other. Usually a gap is formed between them, allowing the gate to be freely closed. To prevent heat leakage through these slots, various seals are used. As a rule, they are a self-adhesive strip with a rubber or foam rubber seal. This seal is not suitable for insulating the lower part of the gate. For these purposes, there are special brush strips. They are attached to the bottom of the gate with self-tapping screws.

After all the cracks are closed, the insulation of the garage door can be considered complete.

Self-insulation of garage doors - video

The condition of the vehicle largely depends on the temperature in the garage, but, above all, its rubber-technical elements. Moreover, the warmer it is in the room, the more comfortable it will be to use the car inside in winter period. Finally, the temperature here also affects the microclimatic conditions in basement(if any) under the garage. And in order to keep the heat inside the garage, it is necessary to carefully insulate it. So, today we will talk about how to insulate garage doors with your own hands.

Do I need to insulate the gate at all?

To find out if the gate really needs to be insulated, you need to understand one extremely important thing for yourself. important point. So, even without taking into account the winter cold, the usual thermal fluctuation in the warm and daylight hours can lead to the formation of condensate in the garage. A permanently elevated level of humidity has a negative effect not only on the condition of the object, but also on the vehicle body: metal surfaces become rusty, electrical wiring begins to rot, and mold or fungus appears in the corners of the garage.

As soon as the condensate freezes, moisture will begin to crack finishing material. But there is great news - such, it would seem, serious problem quite hard to decide! It is only necessary to choose the insulating material, and then personally carry out the appropriate measures to insulate the gates and doors. As soon as the work is completed, the temperature in the garage will not fall below the 5 C mark. Let's find out how to do this.

What generally can be done? Getting ready for work

There are several options at once: for example, you can simply purchase and install modern garage doors High Quality, which are already equipped with insulating material, or to carry out work on the thermal insulation of existing gates on their own, which, of course, will cost much less. It doesn't take long to do so, and special skills in construction.

Note! The garage doors themselves are thin, so they are unable to reliably protect from the cold in winter. It is generally unreasonable to heat a metal garage, since the only thing you will achieve in this case is the formation of condensate on the walls.

It is also worth noting that it is better to insulate the gate from the outside, although this is often impossible. At internal insulation condensate will appear in those areas where the insulation is in contact with metal surfaces, for this reason, all surfaces should be protected with an anti-corrosion agent, and the heat insulator itself should be fixed as tightly as possible in order to avoid air gaps. A wooden frame is built on top of the insulation, which will serve as the basis for future sheathing.

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Now - directly to the workflow!

Instructions for insulating garage doors

The thermal insulation procedure consists of several stages, we will get acquainted with each of them in more detail. Traditionally, let's start with the selection of materials and the preparation of everything necessary equipment.

How to choose a heater?

In this case, the characteristics and quality of the heat insulator are extremely important. Of all the known heaters for our case, suitable:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam;
• extruded foam.

Each option has its own strengths and weaknesses. We also note that even before you insulate the garage door with your own hands, you should correctly determine the required number of materials. Go ahead.

If we talk specifically about polystyrene, then it does not have a high fire safety, but it has increased moisture resistance and low heat conductivity. Mineral wool is more refractory (so to speak), but its moisture resistance leaves much to be desired. Polyurethane foam coating is new way thermal insulation - expensive, albeit effective. This method has several significant advantages.

• After installation, there are no seams.
• Polyurethane foam weighs quite a bit.
• It can be applied to any surface, even unprepared.
• The material is resistant to temperature changes, impacts chemical substances, it is durable and strong.

But due to the high cost, this method is not very popular - as a rule, foam is used to insulate the garage door. Therefore, we will focus on this material in this article.

Necessary equipment

You will not need any specific tools - almost every car owner should have everything they need at hand. So, for work you should prepare:

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Calculations of the required number of consumables

First, measure the gate and determine what and how much you need. Can be used for finishing various materials: plastic, plywood, lining, etc., but in practice best option in this case - OSB boards, which have a number of advantages:

• reliability;
• affordable cost;
• strength;
• ease of processing;
• excellent aesthetic data;
• low vapor permeability (you can not use additional vapor barrier).

For a garage, you will need material labeled OSB-3 or OSB-4 one centimeter thick. At the end of the measurements, calculate the required number of plates (for reference: the standard dimensions of one plate are 250x125 centimeters). Often a couple of plates are enough, and after work there are a lot of scraps that will also come in handy in the future.

OSB-plates will be fixed to the crate, made of wooden bars 40x40 millimeters. The lathing will be created along the perimeter of the structure and along the area of ​​the door leaf, and attached to the bearing parts (the role of such can be profiled pipes or steel corners). When calculating the dimensions of the crate, you need to take into account several points (this is another important point regarding how to insulate garage doors with your own hands).

• Dimensions load-bearing elements.
• Styrofoam sheet dimensions.
• The step of fixing the future skin (at least 400 millimeters).

The bars will be fastened with self-tapping screws (their length depends on the thickness of the supporting elements), for OSB boards, the best option is screws equipped with a press washer.

Note! It may be necessary to treat the inner iron surface with a special anti-corrosion primer that can protect the material from rusting. The primer can be any, it is only important that it is intended for a fairly wide temperature range. Before applying the primer, the surface will need to be degreased with a solvent.

To mount the foam to the metal (as well as to fill the resulting gaps), you need to purchase mounting foam. It is desirable that it be professional, that is, a special gun is used for application. The expansion of such foam is smaller, and it is much more convenient to apply it with a gun.

Wooden blocks should be treated with an antiseptic so that they do not rot. An antiseptic can also be anything; moreover, it can even be a paint with antiseptic characteristics. Finally, ordinary foam (not extruded) must be protected from moisture, for which you can use bitumen-based mastic, a vapor barrier membrane, isolon, and so on.

Stage four. Preparatory activities

Step 1. First of all, process everything wooden elements with an antiseptic. Do this in one or two layers, depending on the specific product (if there are several layers, then each of them must be given time to dry). To apply, use a regular brush, but start working only in protective gloves- most of the antiseptics are made on the basis of aggressive chemicals.

Step 2. Next, proceed to the preparation of the inner surface of the garage door. Carefully inspect the surface, clean off any traces of rust found. Any paint that has already peeled off should also be cleaned. Further, in order to increase adhesion, the entire surface is carefully processed with sandpaper. Finally, the metal is coated with a degreasing solvent.

Step 3. Start applying an anti-corrosion primer, and apply it in two layers: the first - along the canvas, the second - across, after the previous one has completely dried.

Step 4. When the surface dries, proceed to waterproofing (as noted above, for ordinary foam this is required condition). There are several ways to waterproof, let's get acquainted with each of them.

• By means of mastic based on bitumen.
• With the help of isolon.
• with a vapor barrier membrane.

It is necessary to cover the entire surface with waterproofing, which will later be covered with a heat insulator.

Stage five. Lathing installation

We continue to consider how to insulate garage doors with your own hands. According to the previously drawn up scheme, cut the bars of the desired size. To attach them, make holes in the frame with a diameter of 0.4 centimeters in increments of about 20 centimeters. To fix the bars themselves, you need to tighten them with clamps and, using a 0.25 cm drill, make holes in them along the depth of the screws.

Stage six. Styrofoam laying

The foam will be laid in the voids between the bars of the crate. To do this, first measure the dimensions of the cells and cut the insulation using a metal ruler and a mounting knife. It is important that you make each sheet of foam a few millimeters larger than the required dimensions, and on each side. So the insulation, being sufficiently elastic, will fit extremely tightly.

Video - Styrofoam cutting technology with a knife

There are several ways to fix the heat insulator between the bars of the crate, let's get acquainted with them.

Method number 1. The foam plastic can not be fixed at all, since the skin plates will already press it tightly against the gate.

Method number 2. The material can be glued using mounting foam. A great option, especially since foam is already required in the work.

Method number 3. Finally, you can use "liquid nails" glue, which, as far as is known, is intended specifically for this.

Note! The mounting foam has excellent adhesion, but it is still desirable to slightly moisten the surface before application. This is explained by the fact that the foam hardens exclusively when exposed to moisture.

Take a sheet of foam, apply foam on one surface around the entire perimeter (a little, in the center - in a zigzag pattern). After that, wait ten minutes for the material to increase slightly in volume, and press the sheet against right place at the gate. After another fifteen minutes, re-press the foam in order to make sure that its adhesion to the surface is as strong as possible.

After attaching the last sheet, blow out all the voids and cracks with the same mounting foam. When the foam dries (and this will take at least a day), the excess is cut off with a knife. Now proceed to the last stage of work!

Stage seven. sheathing

Measure the gate with a tape measure and determine exactly how the OSB boards should be cut. It is important that they completely cover the crate with insulation, but at the same time it is necessary to act on the principle of the ultimate integrity of the plates. If joints cannot be avoided, then they should be placed exclusively on the bars.

For cutting boards, you can use electric jigsaw or a hacksaw. Next, the plates in place, if necessary, make cutouts for ventilation holes or locks. For fastening, use screws - it will not only be reliable, but also look beautiful. The vertical fastening step should be 150 millimeters, but the center and horizontal - 250 millimeters. Drive screws into pre-drilled holes.

Note! If there are difficulties with the tightness of the doors or gates, then you can paste over the problem areas with a sealant tape or a tube (these are sold in a large assortment, and you can choose for yourself optimal dimensions and form). Thus, you will significantly reduce the heat loss of the garage room.

gates sheathed OSB boards, already look great on their own, but if you wish, you can paint them with paint of any color you like. Of course, all this depends solely on personal preferences, since the main thing is already ready - the gates in the garage are insulated. For a more detailed acquaintance with how to insulate garage doors with your own hands, we recommend watching the thematic video below.

Video - Thermal insulation of the garage door

As a conclusion

As a result, we recall once again how important it is to insulate the gate and the garage itself as a whole. Even the usual (not taking into account winter) temperature fluctuations during warm and daylight hours can lead to condensation in the garage. A permanently high level of humidity negatively affects not only the condition of the room, but also the body of the vehicle: metal surfaces become rusty, electrical wiring begins to rot, and mold or fungus appears in the corners of the garage. As soon as the condensate freezes, the finishing material will begin to crack due to moisture. But high-quality insulation will allow you to get rid of all these troubles!