Log houses are the warmest and most environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain and accumulate heat and regulate the level of humidity. On every corner we hear that a wooden wall only 240 mm thick has the same thermal conductivity as a brick wall 1 m thick. Impressive, right? But there are situations when they built or bought a new log house, lived in it, and with the onset of the first serious cold weather, they realized that the house was cool and there were drafts. Then we seriously think about the insulation of the building, even to the detriment of beauty. But there may be more banal situations: they bought an old wooden house, which is already rather "worn out" and requires serious measures for warming. So a serious question arises, how to insulate a log house, what materials can be used, and what absolutely cannot be done.

Why is it cold in a log house - a little theory

What are the most common problems faced by log house owners who complain that it is cold in winter? Firstly, these are drafts in the rooms. Secondly, it blows on the legs. Thirdly, the house cools down quickly if the heating is turned off. Fourth, the walls are too cold. And many related nuances, from which it is concluded that the house must be urgently insulated, and it is imperative to start from the floor, since it is the coldest. Let's see what happens in the room when it is heated.

Imagine that we have a log house that we heat with some kind of heat source. What we have involved in heat transfer: heat source, air, ceiling, walls and floor. How does this happen? Recall the school physics course. Heating up from the heat source, the air rushes up - to the ceiling. Resting against the surface of the ceiling, it spreads over it, giving off heat and cooling. As a result, we get the ceiling - the warmest surface in the room. Further, the air flow reaches the walls and descends along them. Since our walls are much colder than the ceiling, the air cools much faster, and its speed increases. Now the air has already reached the floor, having fairly accelerated, and rushes along it at such a speed that an illusion of such a strong cold draft is created, as if there is no floor at all, and you are standing right on the snow.

If you place a heat source near the inner walls, as is usually done by heating with a fireplace or a portable radiator, then the heat transfer rate increases significantly. There is a constant draft in the room, it turns out that we ourselves are to blame for the fact that it is cold in the house.

No wonder there are norms that heating radiators should be located under the windows. The outer walls are initially the coldest, in contrast to the inner ones, which are quite inert. If you place a heat source near the outer wall, then the air will rise up, then fall back onto the walls, but now not at such a speed and will not cool so quickly. After all, the inner walls are quite warm, so passing them, the air will not cool too much. And descending along the outer walls, it will rest against the heat source again, where it will heat up and rise up. As a result: the room warms up faster, the structures retain heat better, since it is accumulated rather than wasted.

What you need to check to eliminate unnecessary heat loss:

1. Ceiling. The very first outpost to check for leaks, as up to 70% of heat can escape through it. Be sure to insulate the attic or attic floor to retain heat inside the room.
2. Walls. The second outpost is the outer walls and everything that is in them: windows, doors, etc. Incorrectly installed windows and doors are the scourge of log houses. Through them, the lion's share of heat can go away, without even having time to heat the room. Immediately from the radiator and into the gap under / above the window. Plus, do not forget to check whether the walls are carefully caulked, maybe cracks have already formed somewhere.
3. Floor. The last thing that can be a source of cold is the floor. It should be checked for serviceability and insulated in a standard way. Also for the winter it is worth reducing the ventilation of the underground, blocking most of the air.

I would also like to note that in order to make the heating of a log house better, it is possible to equip the house with “warm floors”, in addition to the existing heating system. Then warm air will be distributed more evenly throughout the room, due to which drafts near the floor will disappear and the house will cool more slowly.

By the way, too thin walls can also cause cold in the house. For example, for a climate with a cold harsh winter, but low humidity, walls 200 - 240 mm thick are sufficient. But for regions with wet winters, even if the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, it is advisable to use logs with a diameter of at least 400 mm, and preferably 480 mm. Such regions, for example, include Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region. Be sure to take this into account when developing a log house project so that it does not hurt excruciatingly later.

What materials can be used to insulate a log house

The standard procedure for insulating a log house includes insulating the ceiling or attic, caulking the walls and insulating window and door frames, and insulating the floor. If everything is done correctly, then no additional measures will be needed.

Taking into account the fact that log houses are built in order to create a dwelling from natural environmentally friendly materials, it would be foolish to use polystyrene for insulation. Then all meaning is lost.

For attic insulation log house can be used sawdust, ecowool(cellulose cotton), seaweed, straw. In extreme cases, you can insulate mineral wool.

Caulker walls produced only with natural materials: moss, tow, hemp, jute, flax-based tape heaters and jute. The main requirement for the material is that it must have properties similar to wood.

For wooden floor insulation on logs you can use natural backfill materials, and you can mineral wool in rolls. But concrete floor will require a denser material, suitable polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, Cork and basalt wool in slabs with a density of more than 160 kg/m3.

If, after all the standard procedures, the house is cold, maybe because the thickness of the logs was chosen incorrectly, maybe the house is already very old, or maybe the heating was calculated incorrectly, and you decided that without such a procedure as warming the walls of a log house , you can not do, then you should know some of the nuances.

The material that can be used to insulate log walls should have the following properties:

• To be vapor-permeable on a par with wood or to a greater extent if it is laid outside the building.
• Be moisture resistant so as not to accumulate moisture, which can lead to rotting of the tree.
• Be fireproof and resistant to the appearance of pathogenic fungi.
• It is easy to pass air.
• Have a sufficiently loose structure to fit snugly against a rounded log wall and leave no gaps.

Considering all of the above, to insulate a log house from the outside, you can use:

• Ecowool.

• Mineral wool (although it is not natural, it is easy to install and publicly available).
• Sawdust or sawdust-granules (filling material).
• Expanded clay (filling material).

Wood is an unusual building material. It not only “breathes”, but is also a kind of air recuperator. And if someone will assure you that the vapor permeability of wood across the fibers is slightly greater than that of reinforced concrete, know that you can object. Entering the thickness of the wood across the fibers, then the air is distributed along the fibers and exits through the end. In other words, the tree "breathes" with its ends.

It is precisely because the wooden walls are “living” that the following materials cannot be used:

• Styrofoam.
• Extruded polystyrene foam.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Mounting foam for sealing gaps.
• Sealants.

Using vapor barrier materials will cause the wood to rot, or if you protect it from the inside with a vapor barrier, you will turn a wooden house into a thermos. In this case, the whole point of building a house from a log will be lost. But the choice is still yours.

How to insulate a log house from the outside

As we have already found out, it is necessary to insulate the walls of a log house only when all other measures for insulation have not brought the desired result.

If you are interested in the question of how to properly insulate a log house from the outside or from the inside, then here is a definite answer for you - outside. This is due to the properties of the tree to breathe, accumulate moisture and give it away. In the case of an external location of the insulation, air and moisture will freely exit the tree and ventilate.

You can start warming only a year and a half after the completion of the construction, when the log house sits down.

Log wall caulk

Even if you have already made the final decision to insulate the house, the first step is to carefully caulk it. We examine all the walls for visible cracks. Then, in calm weather, we pass through the house with a candle, holding it close to the walls. If the flame leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place from which it blows in winter.

One of the most effective ways to look for cracks in logs is in winter when the house is heated, you need to go around and inspect all the walls. If you notice frost, it is sometimes also called a “bunny”, which means that heat is leaking from the room in this place.

Caulking should be done in dry, warm weather, using tow, jute, hemp or roll insulation. We put the material in the gap between the crowns and push it with a special tool - a caulk.

Ventilated facade device

Insulation of a log house from the outside is carried out by installing a ventilated facade. This design allows the wooden wall to "breathe" and release moisture.

First, we treat the walls with an antiseptic and flame retardant to protect the tree from fire and mold. On top of the walls we fill the crate, which will hold the insulation. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 50 mm. We fill vertically with a step equal to the width of the insulation boards minus 2 - 3 cm.

As a heater, we will use mineral wool in slabs with a density of 35 - 50 kg / m3, 50 mm thick.

Important! When installing insulation on a log wall, we encounter some inconvenience. The fact is that the wall is uneven, laying the insulation close without gaps is almost impossible. Therefore, we put insulation into the gaps (openings) between the wall and the battens of the crate. To do this, you can use "Basaltin" in rolls or interventional insulation - jute, lnovatin.

We insert mineral wool slabs between the crate, pushing them tightly into the opening. We do this from the bottom up.

On top of the insulation we mount a windproof waterproofing superdiffusion membrane. It must have a vapor permeability equal to at least 1400 g/m2 per day or higher.

Important! Properly selected wind protection for a ventilated log wall facade is almost the most important thing in insulation. This membrane will not allow moisture and wind to pass through from the outside into the thickness of the insulation and walls, but at the same time it will release moisture and air from the inside to the outside, thus giving the walls the opportunity to “breathe”.

On top of the windshield we stuff a crate of 50 mm bars. We mount siding on the crate. It can be a vinyl siding that imitates wood, or you can use a block house, then the wall will have the same log profile as the real one.

For the entire thickness of the crate (50 mm), a ventilation gap is formed between the membrane and the facade. Air vents must be provided at the bottom and at the top so that air can circulate freely.

How to insulate a log house from the inside

The option of insulating the house inside must be considered before performing a ventilated facade. Perhaps standard insulation measures will be enough, and you won’t have to spoil the appearance of the walls.

The following procedures can be attributed to the insulation of a log house from the inside: insulation of the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Moreover, experts are categorically against installing insulation inside the walls, since in this case the tree will dampen and rot.

Ceiling and roof insulation

The first thing, as soon as they found that it was cold in the house, we insulated the ceiling and roof.

If the house is one-story with an attic, then we lay a waterproofing film on the attic floor, pour insulation on top with a layer of 150 to 250 mm. It can be ecowool, sawdust, seaweed or ordinary mineral or glass wool in rolls. It is not necessary to cover the heater. From above, you can lay boards for ease of movement around the attic, but you do not need to equip the floor.

If the house has an attic floor instead of an attic, then it is necessary to insulate both the ceiling between the floors and the roof slope. It is enough to lay 50 - 100 mm of insulation (any) in the ceiling. If the attic floor is wooden, then we fill up the insulation between the lags. If the floor is concrete, then we use basalt wool in slabs or, in extreme cases, foam. To insulate the roof slope, we lay a waterproofing film directly under the roof, then lay the insulation (mineral wool) with a layer of 150 - 200 mm. We lay a vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation so that the material is not saturated with moisture from the room. We mount the crate and trim for the attic.

The above procedures should be enough to make the house warmer.

Insulation of the walls of a log house

Let's go to the walls. Since it is impossible to mount insulation inside log walls, what we can do is to caulk well from the inside, insulate all window and door openings.

To insulate openings, we use rolled interventional insulation or, in extreme cases, mineral wool, but in no case do we blow out the cracks with mounting foam, it will quickly become unusable, since the walls of a log house are constantly in motion, and foam is a non-plastic material.

To finish the walls of a log house from the inside, you can upholster them with wooden clapboard. In this case, the insulation between the wall and the finish cannot be mounted. The house will become a little warmer due to the fact that the wall will have a slightly greater thickness, as well as air gaps from the side of the heated room between the flat lining and the curved surface of the log walls.

Insulation of the floor of a log house

In order for the floor in a wooden house to be warm, it must be equipped, observing the entire technology of laying the floor on the ground. Be sure to perform backfilling, waterproofing and insulation. If the floor is wooden, we lay insulation between the lags with a layer of 100 - 150 mm. Top rough and finish floor.

If the floor is concrete, then between the layer of "lean" concrete and the main layer we lay polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam in slabs with a thickness of 50 - 80 mm.

Before insulating a log house with a ventilated facade, equip the house with a “warm floor” system. Perhaps this will be more than enough to ensure a comfortable stay in it. Then you don’t have to sew up beautiful log walls, because such houses are being built because of their primitive beauty. What's the use of covering the walls with siding?

Insulation of a log house is a whole range of measures. If everything is done correctly, start from the ceiling and roof, then caulk the walls well, insulate the windows and doors, the floor, there will be no need to sheathe the house from the outside. If this does not help, there is another way to keep warm in a log house, which is not described here - to build a glazed veranda on the coldest side of the house, thereby expanding the area and forming an air barrier.

Follow the technology insulation of a wooden house from the outside, perform the work carefully and in the indicated sequence:

• the first layer is a film for vapor barrier of walls;
• installation of a frame crate;
• direct installation of the selected insulation;
• fastening to the frame of the waterproofing layer;
• installation of facade cladding.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? Get to know the popular materials for protecting a wooden structure.

Mineral wool

Many owners choose mineral wool. Quite reasonable. This lightweight material:

• retains heat well;
• not subject to combustion;
• it is soft and elastic;
• it is easy to work with him;
• withstands temperature changes;
• cold bridges are absent.

External wall insulation with mineral wool is often used by owners of new and old log houses. First, equip the frame and fill it with rolls of mineral wool. The material fills the voids well.

The supporting structures of the frame tightly hold the mineral wool. Additional fastening is not required. They produce material in rolls, plates or mats.

New boards are laid on top and sheathed with plastic siding. The building will take on a modern look.

Ecowool

This insulation came to us from Finland. In harsh conditions, the material, consisting of cellulose and antiseptics, successfully withstood the test of severe frosts and icy winds.

Advantages:

• eco-friendly, natural material;
• prevents the appearance of mold;
• mice do not gnaw ecowool;
• excellent noise and heat insulation;
• used for external and internal insulation;
• the walls "breathe" well;
• when smoldering does not emit toxic substances.

Installation of ecowool does not require the arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. Methods for applying the cellulose mixture: wet-glue, bulk, by blowing using a special machine.

A high-quality, monolithic layer 10 cm thick will create reliable protection against the cold. Suitable for use in various climatic zones.

Styrofoam

This material insulates the house from the inside. Outside, insulate a house from a bar with polystyrene foam Not recommended. Cause? The material does not breathe well. The result - the appearance of condensate, wood decay, the development of mold fungi.

Cold bridges inevitably form between the base and polystyrene foam in places of loose fit. Some of the heat will be wasted.

For internal thermal insulation, with the help of foam, the rack frame is first stuffed to provide an air gap. Plates up to 5 cm thick are fixed with adhesive mortars or special fasteners.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Have you already decided on the type of insulation? Mineral wool or ecowool - you decide. It remains to consider stages of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house.

In the photo you see one of the insulation options, the order of work.

vapor barrier

The purpose of this layer is ensure adequate ventilation of the facade under the foil. If the facade is made of round logs, you can fix the material directly on the tree. The gaps will be sufficient.

On a smooth surface, you first need to fill wooden slats. Thickness - 2.5 cm. Keep the distance between them - within a meter.

You will need aluminum foil, roofing felt, a special vapor barrier film. Attach the vapor barrier layer to the rails. Cut a hole in the top and bottom for ventilation. Diameter - 2 cm.

Important: where nails or staples are driven in, glue the surface with adhesive tape to seal.

Arrangement of a wooden frame

You will need a regular board. Width - no more than 10 cm, thickness - no more than 5 cm. Thinner ones are not suitable for this design.

Nail the boards vertically. Make sure that the distance between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. So you prevent the appearance of cracks and voids.

thermal insulation

If you chose ecowool, use a blower to apply the cellulose mixture to the wall. Remember- No vapor barrier required!

Lay the mineral wool slabs in the prepared frame, achieving a snug fit. Choose semi-rigid boards with a density of 120kg/m3. Additional fastening is not required.

waterproofing layer

To you special film required with vapor permeability over 1300g/sq.m. its task is to let steam through, but prevent it from getting on the insulation layer. Installation is carried out in the same way as when installing a vapor barrier layer.

It remains to fill the frame with boards to dry the condensate that has fallen on the waterproofing layer. Suitable boards with a thickness of 2.3 to 3 cm and a width of 5 cm.

To protect against insects and rodents, install a metal mesh with small cells from below. Pay special attention to the arrangement of the protective layer when insulating a log house with mineral wool.

outer skin

What will your house look like after insulation? You can stuff a wooden lining or eurolining made of larch, oak or pine. Treat the boards, open them with varnish.

Think about the design of doors and windows. Insulation will increase the thickness of the walls up to 25cm. You can move them to another place and equip new wooden frames, platbands, window sills.

The second option is to give the house a stylish, modern look. You will need a block how, vinyl or metal siding. Work is carried out from the bottom up. Attach the cladding with screws or nails.

To your attention is a video about the insulation of a wooden house from the outside. What is the best way to insulate?

Prices for insulation

Warming of private houses and cottages can be done independently. This option only costs material.

Many owners turn to construction companies. In the absence of skills, time and desire to carry out the insulation of your home, allocate some money to pay for the work of professionals. These are the average rates.

A full range of works on the arrangement of thermal insulation: from 1080 to 4000 rubles. per sq.m. The total cost depends on the chosen insulation and the method of installation of the protective layer.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - a process that requires a balanced approach to all stages of work. Buy high-quality materials, listen to the advice of experts, follow the technology - and your log house will be warm. The new decorative facade will set the mood.

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, you need to correctly select all the materials. The building made of wood has its own characteristics. First of all, it is worth remembering why wood still retains its popularity. There are several reasons for this:

• good thermal performance;
• providing a comfortable microclimate in the building;
• environmental friendliness;
• safety;
• the ability to pass air (the tree "breathes").

The insulation of a wooden house from the outside should be chosen so that all materials do not reduce the useful properties of wood. But sometimes it is difficult to do so. To choose a good insulating material, you will need to spend your time and study the basic information on the issue.

pie wall

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the composition of the wall. After that, you can begin to select all the necessary materials. The technology of warming a wooden house from the outside provides for the following layers:

• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• outer cladding.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing are required to protect the material from moisture. Many types of thermal insulation are destroyed or cease to perform their function when exposed to water.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside? The most popular materials in the construction market are:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages that you need to consider before deciding how and with what to insulate your own home.

Styrofoam

Insulating a wooden house from the outside with your own hands in this case will be the cheapest. It can be bought almost everywhere. There are different types depending on the strength. Polyfoam has good thermal insulation performance, but the disadvantages include:

• combustibility;
• low strength;
• resistance to mechanical damage.

Insulators for the walls of a wooden house of this type are not recommended for one reason: the foam practically does not let air through. This means that all the useful properties of wood, for which it is so valued as a material for building cottages, are coming to naught.

Insulating a house made of wood with polystyrene foam is a rather pointless procedure. Yes, the room will be warm, but at the same time, the temperature and humidity regime will be disturbed due to lack of ventilation. The natural air exchange in the room is blocked, the arrangement of forced ventilation or air conditioning is required. Both options involve additional (and not small) costs, both during the construction process and during the operation of the building.

Also, the foam needs careful protection from moisture. Manufacturers claim that the insulation of wooden walls with foam plastic does not absorb water, but this is not so. The polystyrene beads themselves are resistant to moisture, but it can accumulate in the space between them. Freezing water expands. The well-known law of physics does not apply here: water is the only substance that increases in volume with increasing temperature.

As the water expands, the pressure inside the material increases. This will eventually cause the styrofoam to crumble into individual balls in the first or second winter. To replace the external insulation will have to make a lot of effort and spend money.

Extruded polystyrene foam

To perform the insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside, you can consider using Penoplex. It is the closest relative of polystyrene, but is devoid of most of its shortcomings.

First of all, the insulation of wooden houses with such material has greater strength. Penoplex is resistant to stress and mechanical damage. The second positive property is moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture. This insulation for walls and ceilings can be used even without vapor barrier and waterproofing.
The benefits can also include:

• high energy efficiency;
• ease of installation;
• ease of processing;
• safety and environmental friendliness.

It is not recommended to use Penoplex for houses outside, but it will be an ideal option for floors. Such material is not afraid of loads. On top of it, it is enough to make a cement screed with a thickness of 30-50 mm. It can be used both for the floor of the first floor and for the attic floor. Also, very often expanded polystyrene is bought for floor insulation on the ground.

Mineral wool

What kind of insulation is better to protect the walls of the building? The answer here will be unequivocal. For both an old wooden house and a new one, mineral wool will be the best option. It not only allows you to save the beneficial properties of wood, but also smoothes out its shortcomings.

If you insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool, you can prevent a fire. Most of the materials in this group are non-combustible. This property distinguishes cotton wool from polystyrene and polystyrene foam.

Wall insulation in a wooden house outside with mineral wool conducts air well. When using it, you do not need to resort to additional ventilation measures: with the right choice of finishing material, the walls will continue to “breathe”. But this very finishing needs to be given special attention, otherwise you can ruin everything at the last stage.

You can insulate the walls of a wooden house using different types of material:

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? It is important to firmly remember one thing: the vapor barrier is laid on the side of warm air, and the waterproofing is on the side of cold air. Both the outer and inner material can be produced in the form of films and membranes. For a building made of wood, it is recommended to choose the latter option. The films practically do not let air through, and the membranes “breathe”.

Arrangement of steam, wind and moisture insulating layers

Before insulating an old wooden house from the outside, it is worth checking the condition of the walls, ceilings and roofs, and if necessary, reinforcing them and protecting them from mold and fungus. A combination of such measures will extend the life of the building. Also, the insulated structure must be cleaned of dirt and dust.

Dried wood is not only strong and durable construction material. It also retains heat well.

Thus, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of masonry from hollow bricks on a mortar of cement and sand is 0.52, and the same coefficient for different types of wood is 0.18–0.23. In other words, the tree is about 2.5 times retains heat better than ceramic bricks.

However, modern thermal insulation materials are significantly ahead of wood in terms of their ability to retain heat, so many owners of wooden country houses try to insulate them, reducing your costs for heating.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Usually homeowners are interested in how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside under siding, because this technology most simple.

Improve wall insulation can be done in two ways:

• laying material outside;
• laying the heat insulator from the inside.

Inside wooden houses warm rarely. The reasons for this and the details of the technology of internal insulation can be found in the article "Rules and secrets of wall insulation in a wooden house from the inside." Next, consider the external thermal insulation of a wooden building.

Wood as a building material has specific properties things to consider while working with it:

1. This natural material in its raw state is quickly destroyed by fungi and bacteria, which, under favorable conditions, destroy the building in 2-3 years.
2. The wood gradually dries out, decreasing in size. Through the pores, not only its internal moisture escapes to the outside, but also water vapor from the room. Vapor permeability, humidity and shrinkage of this building material must be taken into account when carrying out insulation work. Warming of an old wooden house from the outside possible at any time, and the walls of the new one should be insulated no earlier than three years after construction.

So that these features do not negatively affect the result of work, insulation should be done this way:

1. Choose a porous heat-insulating material that does not retain moisture and does not interfere with the release of vapors to the outside. Protect the insulation from drops of water that may fall on it from the outside.
2. If you have to make thermal insulation with a material that does not allow water vapor to pass through, leave a ventilated air gap between the wall and the insulation to remove excess steam.

Most often, after laying the thermal insulation, the wall is finished with plaster or siding. In the first case must be taken into account that the plaster does not pass water vapor well. This means that with such a finish, you need to choose a scheme with an air gap between the wall and the insulation.

When finishing with siding there will be an air gap between it and the thermal insulation. The heat insulator itself in this case is laid close to the wall. Heaters when laying according to these schemes will need different ones. Their isolation will also vary.

Choosing a heater

For independent external insulation of a wooden house, materials are usually used in slabs or rolls.

For this purpose, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene in various modifications (foam or polystyrene), polyethylene foam are suitable. Ecowool is also used, but by wet spraying.

Mineral wool — better than others, basalt wool in slabs is suitable for the installation of a ventilated facade. It consists of fibers of molten and cooled basalt bound together with a minimal amount of synthetic resin. This is a dense elastic material that retains its shape well.

Mineral wool does not burn, does not support combustion, practically does not absorb moisture, but passes water vapor well. In combination with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (at a density of 50 kg/m³ it is 0.06 W/m K), these qualities make it one of the best wood insulation.

Ecowool is a gray powder containing natural cellulose fibers from waste, boric acid and borax. Boron compounds are non-toxic to humans and animals, but they have a detrimental effect on fungi and bacteria that cause decay. When ecowool is heated by fire, the additives act as fire retardants that extinguish the flame, so this insulation does not burn, but chars.

Ecowool is not suitable for independent work, because it is sprayed wet on wooden walls using special equipment. In regions with a maritime climate, where the air is very humid in winter, use ecowool doesn't make sense because it absorbs a lot of water vapor and loses its thermal insulation properties.

Styrofoam- This material is produced in various modifications. Fine-mesh foam has the best thermal insulation properties. Styrofoam, in which the cells are larger, stores heat somewhat worse.

All modifications of expanded polystyrene almost do not absorb water (no more than 2% of the volume) and practically do not pass water vapor. For this reason, this material is mounted.

Polyethylene foam is a modern heat insulator produced by extrusion. Contains very small gas bubbles. It is made uncoated, with one-sided and two-sided aluminum foil coating.

Differs in almost complete vapor impermeability. The foil layer reflects heat radiation, improving the heat-insulating properties. This heater can be used only in ventilated facade.

Mineral wool insulation technology

Mineral wool insulation technology provides for laying insulation without an air gap between it and the wall. This is done in such sequences:

1. Wall preparation. Before starting work, the wall should be cleaned, leveled and protected from fungus and microorganisms. For antifungal treatment, special products are sold in solutions. They are applied with a brush and left to dry completely. According to the instructions, processing can be done several times.
2. Laying waterproofing. A small amount of condensation may form on the mineral wool fibers. This moisture should not wet the wood. To protect the wood, a waterproofing film is fixed on the wall surface, which allows steam to pass through, but retains liquid water. This film is spread on the wall and fixed with metal brackets using a stapler. The edges of the panels should overlap to a width of 15 cm. The joints are fastened with construction tape.


3. crate. A crate of bars is constructed on top of the waterproofing film to secure the thermal insulation. For a single-layer laying, bars of 50 × 50 mm will be needed, for a two-layer laying - 50 × 100 mm (with a thickness of mineral wool sheets of 50 mm). The bars are fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws vertically, setting them on edge and controlling the level. The distance between the bars should be 4–5 cm less than the width of the mineral wool sheets. In this case, the elastic plates of the material are well held between the bars.
4. Mineral wool laying. Insulation plates are laid between the bars butt to each other, and then fixed to the wall with screws with fungi. If two layers are laid (in areas with a harsh climate), then the second layer of plates is mounted according to the principle of brickwork: the top sheet should overlap the junction of the two bottom ones.
5. Fastening of the windproofing. A windproof membrane is fixed on top of the thermal insulation. This is a film coating that does not allow wind damage to mineral wool and protects it from raindrops. Such a film easily passes water vapor. Fasten it with a stapler on the crate overlap.

1. Finishing. For finishing with this method of insulation, it is best to use vinyl siding. For its fastening to the bars, the battens are screwed with self-tapping rails with a section of 30 × 50 mm. Fasteners are screwed onto these rails with screws, and then the siding is snapped onto them.

finishing make plaster. But it cannot be applied to mineral wool, because this will significantly impair vapor permeability. Instead of siding, foam sheets can be fixed on the rails, and plaster is already applied to them.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam

Warming a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam (foam or polystyrene foam) is also easy to do with your own hands. Laying is done according to this technologies:

1. Fungus wall treatment produced in the same way as when using mineral wool.
2. After the preparation has dried on the wall with self-tapping screws the crate is fixed from vertical bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm. The distance between the bars should be no more than the width of the expanded polystyrene sheets, so that the insulation sheets, in the future, can be conveniently attached to this layer of bars.
3. A vapor barrier film is stretched onto the crate and fastened with a stapler. Instead, you can nail a layer of foil-wrapped polyethylene foam (penofol) with foil towards the wall. The edges of this heat insulator are butted, the joints are sealed with metallized tape. Thus, an air gap of 50 mm thick remains between the vapor barrier layer and the wall to remove water vapor.


4. An additional crate is stuffed on top of the film or penofol on the bars from horizontal bars. The thickness of the beams is chosen so that after laying the thermal insulation, the surface of the expanded polystyrene sheets is on the same level with the outer surface of the beams. It is easy to apply plaster on such a flat surface.
5. Expanded polystyrene sheets are laid on horizontal bars, fixing them with screws with fungi to the vertical bars of the previous crate. If necessary, overlap several layers of insulation.
6. Over a layer of expanded polystyrene on the crate fix the reinforcing mesh and then plaster is applied.

In this case heat insulator layer protected not only from water, but also from steam. Steam seeping through the wooden wall escapes through the air gap between the insulation and the wall. Despite the low thermal conductivity of wood, it makes sense to insulate the walls of a wooden house with modern heat insulators, since their thermal conductivity is much lower.

The installation of thermal insulation must be started after completion of the shrinkage of the new house. To insulate a wooden house, materials of different properties can be used, but subject to the condition of free exit of steam through the pores of the wood.

How to properly insulate a wooden house outside under siding, look at the video:

holodine.net

Scheme of insulation of wooden facades

1. At the first stage, antifungal treatment of the walls is performed.

2. Laying a vapor barrier layer. Its task is to protect against getting wet and at the same time to provide ventilation of the facade.

Acceptable options for creating a parabarrier are as follows:

• polyethylene film (not thinner than 0.1 mm);
• bituminous roofing material;
• aluminum foil 0.02 mm thick;
• special film for vapor barrier.

If the frame is made of round logs, then the ventilation gap is formed naturally, and buildings with smooth walls require vertical slats 2-2.5 cm in size, located along the perimeter at intervals of about 1 m. A vapor barrier is attached to the frame, processing all the places of its connection with slats with bituminous mastic.

3. Thermal insulation. The crate is made of boards with a section of 5x10 cm. They are nailed to the walls so as to form deep niches, the width of which is 20 mm less than the width of the plates (for dense laying). Warming of the facade of a wooden house with mineral wool is carried out in two layers with overlapping joints. To do this, take elastic plates with a rigidity of at least 90 kg / m3. They do not need to be specially fixed so that unnecessary cold bridges do not appear.

4. Waterproofing. On top of the frame, a waterproofing film is attached to the boards with brackets, which does not allow external moisture to pass through and is permeable to internal steam. After that, the cladding frame is stuffed, creating the necessary ventilation gap (its underside is isolated from mice and insects with a steel mesh with small cells).

Insulation of a frame house from the outside

The base of the house is constructed from timber sheathed with massive OSB boards. The resulting interstitial space is filled with insulation. To isolate frame buildings, the same materials are mounted as for wooden houses, protecting them with vapor barrier and wind membrane. If high humidity is noticeable in the premises, polystyrene foam materials are undesirable.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation is carried out in stages:

• the leveled surface of the base is cleaned, primed with an adhesive solution of low concentration;
• lay a waterproofing layer that protects the walls from external moisture and dampness. As a waterproofing, it is better to use glassine or modern membrane coatings;
• Penoplex plates are fixed with glue, after drying, the sheets are screwed with plastic dowels (metal ones contribute to heat loss);
• a protective layer is applied by double-puttying the slabs with a pre-attached reinforced mesh. At the end, the walls are covered with facade paint.

What you need to know about home insulation from the inside

If desired, along with the outer, internal insulation of the housing is carried out. This is done if the interior space of the house allows. Aluminum profiles are used as a frame: they are preferable to wooden slats due to dimensional accuracy. Sequence of operations:

• pasting walls with waterproofing;
• installation between the mineral wool layer guides. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of it, which is glued with adhesive tape directly onto the metal profile;
• installation of drywall sheets and final finishing.

Related articles:

termogurus.ru

Types of thermal insulation materials

When deciding whether to insulate a wooden house, you should know that it depends on how well it is built. With the right thickness of the walls (in accordance with the winter temperatures in the region), additional thermal insulation is unlikely to be needed. Where it is cold, it is necessary to insulate a structure made of natural wood. It is important to choose the right materials for this. Not everything is recommended for the exterior walls of a wooden house.

Thermal insulation of a log house

Important. Heaters are divided into natural and artificial. The first "breathe", do not violate the microclimate of the building. The latter are more affordable, but not always safe for health.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? This question always remains open. Adherents of natural materials are happy to use mats made of algae (kamka) and hemp (hemp fiber), despite their high cost, and adobe. Those who do not disdain artificial thermal insulation most often use the following heaters:

• mineral (glass, stone, basalt wool);
• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• ecowool;
• polystyrene and polystyrene.

What material to insulate the walls, if the choice is so wide? You need to build on the technical characteristics of heaters.

Mineral wool

This is a classic insulation for walls, and not only wooden ones. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.033-0.046 W / (m * C) depending on the density, water absorption is 0.49-0.6 Mg / (m * h * Pa). Basalt wool is the most expensive variety. It does not burn, does not rot or mold, perfectly passes steam and does not get wet.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Material made from glass waste is not recommended due to rather large shrinkage and high water absorption. Stone wool is a good option with an average thermal conductivity and a fairly attractive price. Water absorption coefficient - 2% of the total volume.

Warming the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool is a fairly economical option. If plates are used, then installation is quick and you can do without an assistant.

PPU

Polyurethane foam is a new generation material. This is a sprayed thermal insulation with a minimum coefficient of water absorption (0.05) and thermal conductivity (0.023–0.041). The denser the material, the higher the thermal conductivity. PPU "envelops" the structure with a whitish or cream-colored fur coat, not letting in either moisture or cold air. Vapor permeability is practically zero. Finishing required.

Thermal insulation of a log house with polyurethane foam

The opinion of experts about the use of polyurethane foam as a heater is different. Some believe that it should not be used for wooden buildings. The tree does not breathe under it and slowly collapses. Others believe that if you correctly calculate the thickness of polyurethane foam for wood walls, the surface will always be dry and protected from decay. Moisture exchange, characteristic of wood, will occur not on the street, but indoors.

Important. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside (external) is preferable to internal. In this case, the dew point moves closer to the street, and the tree will be dry.

Penoizol

Insulation with a high coefficient of water absorption, weakly resistant to mechanical stress, mandatory arrangement of wind and moisture protection is required. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.031–0.041, water absorption up to 20% of its own weight. Evaporates moisture fairly quickly. Light weight, suitable for ventilated facades.

Ecowool

Natural, environmentally friendly material from waste paper production - waste paper. Thermal conductivity is comparable to PPU 0.032–0.041. Water absorption is lower than that of mineral wool - up to 1% of the total volume. Installation is carried out by dry filling or wet spraying on a surface with a pre-installed crate.

Ecowool

Ecowool is the right choice for insulating the exterior walls of the house. This material should be considered as a priority, including for independent work.

Expanded polystyrenes

Despite its popularity due to its low cost and availability (you can buy it at any hardware store), polystyrene foam and foam plastic are not recommended for insulating wooden walls.

Thermal insulation of a frame house with foam

• easily ignite, although modern technology allows you to minimize the rate when using various flame retardant additives;
• when burned, toxic substances are released;
• become covered with mold over time;
• short-lived.

Thermal insulation of a log house with foam plastic

Styrofoam and foam plastic are often used to insulate the basement of a wooden house. This part of the building is usually concrete or brick. The material is glued with a special compound, additionally fixed with dowels and plastered or covered with some kind of light finish. This is the best application of thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene can insulate the basement, as well as protect the foundation from freezing.

Thermal insulation methods

The most correct insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the arrangement of a ventilation facade. In this case, the thermal insulation does not come into contact with the wood. Between the walls and the insulation "pie" there is a small space where air masses move freely.

Frame House Thermal Insulation Pie

Another, possible, but more time-consuming method is a false wall, equipped using frame-panel technology. The space between it and the monolithic surface is filled with heat-insulating material. This design can be done independently, but it is better to entrust the work to professionals. Experts will make calculations to determine the optimal thickness of thermal insulation.

Important. A false wall cannot hang in the air or rest on the ground, so you have to make a light foundation, and this is an additional financial cost.

The "wet facade" technology is also used for the insulation of wooden buildings. However, this loses all the charm of a structure made of natural wood. The material is glued to the walls and additionally fixed with dowels-umbrellas, a fine-mesh mesh is attached on top and plastered. This method is unlikely to be suitable for a log house.

Thermal insulation pie of a log or log house

Self-insulation technology: step by step instructions

Polyurethane foam and penoizol, although they are the preferred thermal insulation according to their technical characteristics, are not suitable for self-assembly, so if you decide to insulate the facade with your own hands, it is better to use mineral and paper wool (ecowool).

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

• sandpaper (large, medium);
• universal impregnation;
• brushes or rollers for impregnating;
• material for sealing cracks (caulking);
• timber for crates;
• saw for cutting materials;
• fasteners (nails, anchors);
• hammer;
• construction stapler;
• heat insulators (mineral wool, ecowool);
• plywood (for laying ecowool in a dry way);
• vapor barrier and waterproofing films;
• finishing (block house, siding, clinker panels, lining - to choose from).

Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the surface. This applies to any building made of wood - timber, frame-panel, log house, and especially to old buildings. Ideally, a large sandpaper is passed over the tree, removing dirt, efflorescence, grease stains, and old finishes. Then sweep with a broom to remove dust.

The next step is impregnation. They choose a universal one that protects against wood-boring bugs, and from mold and rot, and from fire. After complete drying, proceed to warming.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: ventilated facade

The technology of warming the walls of a wooden house from the outside:

1. Seal all gaps. Use caulk material.
2. Install a horizontal crate for ventilation (slat height up to 0.5 cm).
3. Fasten the vapor barrier film to the crate with a construction stapler. Glue the joints with construction tape.
4. Make the next layer of the crate perpendicular to the first (the thickness of the timber is slightly greater than the thickness of the mineral wool). The step is 1 cm less than the width of the thermal insulation material.
5. Lay mineral wool slabs in the formed cavities.
6. If the household is located in the northern regions, install another crate, placing the beam perpendicular to the beam of the first layer, and lay the mineral wool slabs - now all cold bridges are blocked.
7. Stretch the waterproofing membrane. The side that absorbs moisture should face the insulation. Fix the film with a stapler. Seal the joints with construction tape.

Mineral wool counter grille

The process is completed with finishing - you can sheathe a wooden house outside with vinyl siding, clapboard, block house.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Before buying this insulation, you need to calculate its optimal thickness. Ecowool is sold in briquettes, highly compressed. Before starting work, it must be fluffed. Usually a construction mixer is used for these purposes. Put a bale of ecowool in a large container and "whisk".

Manual installation of ecowool

Warming scheme:

1. Make a zero crate.
2. Stretch the vapor barrier membrane.
3. Make the first level of the crate (the thickness of the timber should be equal to the thickness of the ecowool layer).
4. Outside, stretch a moisture-proof film along the crate.
5. Install the first row of plywood.
6. Start laying ecowool in the resulting cavities. Pour in layers and tamp with your hands or something more convenient, such as a homemade trampler like a short trowel.
7. As soon as the level of ecowool is equal to the top edge of the plywood and will spring under your hands, install another row of chipboard and repeat all the manipulations.
8. Continue until the wall is completely insulated.

Important. This is a good way of thermal insulation, but at the very top it is possible to leave small voids. In the case of ecowool, the best option is to invite a specialist who, using a special installation, will blow the material into the cavity under pressure.

Mechanical blowing of ecowool

log building

How to properly insulate a log house, while keeping the wood intact? Use ventilation facade technology. Only here it is not required to install a zero crate - the one on which the vapor barrier is attached. The log has a semicircular shape, so it is not necessary to raise the level additionally - the air gap is provided by the features of the building material.

It is possible to insulate a log house from the outside with both mineral wool and ecowool. Both materials are breathable, so they do not interfere with the natural moisture exchange of wood with the environment.

If the building is old

In this case, all the steps described in the technology of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated facade are observed. True, it is required to approach the preliminary preparation more thoughtfully.

Ventilated facade crate

To insulate an old wooden house:

1. Remove the old finish from the walls - peel it off to the very wood.
2. Examine the tree for voids from carpenter bugs. Large ones will need to be reached, treated with impregnations, dried and puttied.
3. Treat with an antiseptic, after drying - with a flame retardant composition.
4. After drying the walls, carry out thermal insulation with mineral wool.

Warming an old building made of wood is a slightly more time-consuming, but feasible task for independent implementation. Be sure to choose the right type of finish.

Frame and panel structures

They are thermally insulated in the same way as any wooden buildings. Do not use, even if you really want to save money, polystyrene foam. You can insulate a frame house from the outside with ecowool - this is an ideal option. Use dry backfill (the technology is described above) or call a craftsman who will spray the moistened material directly onto the wooden walls of the house. The second option is much better in terms of thermal insulation characteristics.

The panel house can be insulated from the outside with mineral wool. Use several crates to completely block the cold bridges. And don't forget the ventilation gap. Block-house finishing is the closest imitation of timber.

Important. Do not forget to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. This is especially important if the attic is cold.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation

In order for the thermal insulation of a wooden house to be done correctly, you need to make the correct calculations before starting work. Wood has a low thermal conductivity, is able to accumulate heat, and then slowly release it. A house made of wood, closed from the outside with “alien” material, loses its naturalness. If you can’t do without additional thermal insulation, carry out thermal protection wisely - protect not only the walls from the cold, but also the basement, foundation, floor, roof with an attic.

Wooden houses are considered one of the most popular types of buildings, especially if we are talking about the countryside and the buildings of the beginning and middle of this century, where many still have rubble. Not everyone can change housing, and it is not always possible to do this. But nevertheless, the issues of energy saving and energy efficiency in our time of high tariffs for resources and utilities are of concern to everyone. And today we will talk about how to insulate wooden houses from the outside.

Features of thermal insulation of wood

Any wood has a property that allows it to absorb moisture. With the help of various impregnations, it is possible to reduce the hygroscopicity of such a material, but it is not possible to completely eliminate this property. If there is an effective ventilation system, then the moisture can evaporate quite quickly and effectively and it will not have time to have any negative impact on the wood, which will allow maintaining a good microclimate in a village or city house.

But the violation of the movement of air masses leads to the fact that condensate begins to accumulate and the tree begins to swell, due to which fungus and rot begin to appear on it, and the air begins to smell characteristically. In order to avoid such problems, it is recommended to follow these tips:

• use only insulation with good vapor-permeable characteristics;
• it is better to insulate dry walls, but not wet and damp;
• cover the thermal insulation with a waterproofing membrane on both sides;
• leave a small air gap between the finish and the insulation.

If the walls of a wooden house are planned to be painted, or if it is simply necessary to insulate the seams, then the paint with sealant must also be chosen to be vapor-permeable.

As a rule, these are those that are made on an acrylic basis. And of course, the surface must be prepared as much as possible before warming. In addition, the logs themselves or the surface of the outer boards must not be damaged by pests such as bark beetles.

Facade insulation methods

It should be said that for the insulation of a wooden house from the outside, there are two technologies for external insulation:

• ventilated facade;
• wet facade.

The first technology is suitable for frame houses. The frame is mounted on the walls, after which it is sheathed with siding, clapboard or some other finishing material. In this case, the insulation is placed between the finishing material and the wall. This technology is very good in that it excludes wet work, and the facade itself in this case will be more durable and durable.

In the second case, the walls of the house are simply pasted over with insulation, after which they are plastered using a technology specially developed for this.

Now let's talk in more detail about the features of each of the methods.

Ventilated facade technology

The process of creating a so-called ventilated (or hinged) facade includes several parts:

• facade preparation;
• arrangement of the ventilation gap and installation of the frame;
• frame sheathing.

If we talk about a heater that can be used with this method, then it should be said that mineral wool would be the best solution. Many people want to carry out foam insulation.

And, in principle, with this method, its use is also allowed. It is only necessary to remember that the foam plastic resists the effects of fire very poorly, and also does not allow steam and moisture to pass through. And this can negatively affect the microclimate inside the house. Therefore, in this case, it is better to give preference to mineral wool.

If we talk about racks for the frame, then either bars or boards are used for it. They can be attached to the walls using brackets or metal corners. By the way, as an option, you can apply a profile that is used to install drywall. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film that will protect the insulation from getting wet, the material that will be used for finishing: siding, lining, block house, or some kind of facade material.

Also, to implement this method, you will need an interventional heater. Usually, jute tow is used in this capacity, which acts as an excellent protection for seams, but you can use special foam or any other materials that work. You will also need a wood preservative so that it can resist moisture. It is usually applied under plaster.

Now let's talk about the features of another method.

Wet facade technology

It consists of the following parts:

• facade preparation;
• installation of insulation;
• reinforcement;
• painting.

Speaking a little more, in this case it is also better to give preference to such material as mineral wool. In addition to insulation, in this case it will also be necessary to purchase a special glue for mineral wool, dowels in the form of umbrellas, a special reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass, perforated corners, a primer, paint for the facade, as well as decorative plaster. After all these materials are purchased, you can begin to work.

Material characteristics

The decision to insulate a wooden house must be made with an eye on the quality of its construction. If the thickness of the walls is chosen correctly, then it may not be necessary to additionally make thermal insulation. But it is necessary to insulate a wooden house if it is cold in it. And if he is also old, then, most likely, he simply cannot do without it.

But at the same time, it is important to choose materials for this so that their effectiveness is maximized. Not all heaters are recommended for insulating houses of this type from the outside.

The first category does not violate the microclimate of the house, as it allows it to breathe. The second category of materials will be more affordable in terms of price, but the use of such materials may not always be safe for health. But the question, which is the best way to insulate a wooden house, is really very important. Those who prefer natural materials most often use algae mats, adobe or hemp fiber. Sometimes homeowners also resort to wood and sawdust insulation. But this is, say, not a very ecological way of warming.

And those who believe that artificial thermal insulation is not the worst solution can insulate houses with extruded polystyrene foam, basalt slabs, isopine, isover, foam plastic and even expanded clay.

You should also give the following list of artificial heaters for the house:

• mineral insulation, which includes various types of wool: stone, glass wool and basalt;
• penoizol;
• ecowool;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam.

In general, as you can see, the choice of heaters for creating thermal insulation of a wooden house is very large. But how do you choose the best solution? You can try to study the technical characteristics of heaters, which will be discussed below.

stone wool

This material is classified as non-combustible, since it easily withstands heating up to 600 degrees and does not change its physical properties and characteristics under the influence of such a temperature. Also, stone wool has good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. Most often, this material is presented in the form of plates or mats, and is covered with kraft paper, fiberglass or foil. Basalt slabs are quite dense, which allows them, with properly performed thermal insulation, not only not to shrink, but also to retain their shape well throughout the entire period of use.

In addition, this material perfectly resists the appearance of microorganisms. Mounting such a plate is very simple due to its low weight and size.

If we talk about the shortcomings, then there are not so many of them in such a plate. The main thing can be called the low strength of the fibers: if the material is squeezed or cut, then dust is quickly formed, which is very easy to inhale. For this reason, it is better to work with the material after putting on a respirator. Another disadvantage of this material will be a rather high price, so if the budget is small, it is better to look for alternatives.

Ecowool

The production of ecowool is carried out from the waste of the cardboard and paper industry. For this reason, this type of insulation is 80 percent cellulose. In order to improve the characteristics of cellulose, its fibers are mixed with flame retardants and antiseptics. Such a material can absorb and release water without losing its thermal insulation properties. If you make a choice in favor of such a heater, then condensate will never appear. In addition, it has excellent soundproofing properties, and it does not emit any harmful substances. By the way, insects or rodents do not start in such a heater due to the presence of special additives in its composition.

This type of insulation is a loose, light gray mass, which is tightly packed in bags from 15 kilograms. Before warming, the mass is poured out of the bag, loosened with a mixer, and then laid. The effectiveness of such a material depends on the density of the layer. If the material is compacted too weakly, it shrinks very quickly and forms cold bridges. But if such cotton wool is laid tightly, then it will not change its characteristics during the entire service life.

If we talk about the shortcomings of ecowool, then first of all we should name the technology of its laying. This requires a special pneumatic installation, which is expensive and requires special knowledge. That is, in this case, it is also necessary to spend money on the search for certain specialists.

glass wool

Glass wool is made from broken glass melts, where borax, limestone and other components are added. The link in this case will be either bitumen or synthetic type polymers. Glass wool has long fibers, which allows it to surpass analogs on another basis in terms of elasticity, and also to have a high mechanical density, despite its low density.

It should be noted that glass wool is vapor-permeable, perfectly retains heat and is not afraid of exposure to substances that are chemically aggressive. It does not burn and calmly withstands heating up to 450 degrees without changing its physical properties. And also it perfectly resists sudden changes in temperature.

Glass wool is produced in the form of mats, plates and rolls, including those with a foil coating. Its greatest disadvantage can be called the causticity of the fibers, which cause severe irritation of the human skin and easily get into the eyes and lungs. In addition, it is quite fragile, which is why it is quite difficult to work with it - before laying it, you must wear good and thick clothes, as well as gloves.

Styrofoam

This material is the most affordable in terms of cost. It has excellent performance characteristics, which allows using it to significantly save on heating. This material is made in the form of panels of various sizes and thicknesses. For carrying out insulation work of an external nature, a material with an average density is used. It is important to understand here that the greater the density of the insulation, the worse its thermal insulation qualities will be. True, the resistance to stress will be higher. Too dense material is usually used for floor insulation.

This material has a small mass and is a good barrier not only to cold air masses, but also to sound. It has a low thermal conductivity, due to which it retains the accumulated heat in the room for a long time. It is easy to cut and attach to the wall.

In addition, it is resistant to temperature extremes and exposure to ultraviolet radiation, does not absorb moisture and has a considerable service life. At the same time, this material also has a number of disadvantages. Its mechanical strength is extremely low: the material is very easy to break and crumble. For this reason, after fixing to the wall, it will require protection with reinforcement, as well as applying a decorative coating. By the way, they can also do interior decoration by placing it, for example, under drywall.

The disadvantage of the material can also be called its poor resistance to fire. Moreover, when exposed to high temperatures, it can release substances hazardous to health. By the way, if it is supposed to use glue to fix the material, then you need to find out if this or that particular brand of glue is suitable, since some types can destroy the material.

slag wool

To create this type of mineral wool, blast-furnace slags, that is, waste from the metallurgical industry, are used. This determines the availability of this type of material. Slag wool is slightly more thermally conductive than basalt insulation. The material can be heated up to 300 degrees Celsius without problems. If the temperature is higher, then it begins to deform and lose its characteristics. As a rule, slag wool is produced in rolls and plates, often coated with foil. It has low rigidity, which is why it is excellent for thermal insulation of uneven surfaces, as well as excellent thermal and sound insulation characteristics. It also cannot grow mold.

But slag wool also has a number of disadvantages:

• hygroscopic;
• does not like temperature changes;
• releases acids when exposed to moisture;
• Causes extreme irritation upon contact with the skin.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is considered the material of a new generation. It is a sprayed heat insulator. It absorbs moisture minimally and also has minimal thermal conductivity. The most interesting thing is that the higher the density of polyurethane foam, the higher its thermal conductivity. In fact, this material, as it were, envelops the building and does not let in either cold air masses or moisture.

This material is an excellent solution for buildings in areas with an arctic climate, as its characteristics are extremely effective for such natural conditions.

True, experts are rather ambiguous in assessing the need to use this material as a heater. According to some, it is not worth using polyurethane foam for wooden buildings, since the tree simply does not breathe, which is why its slow destruction begins. According to others, if you correctly calculate the thickness of the polyurethane foam coating for wooden walls, then the surface will always be dry and perfectly protected from decay, and the moisture exchange that wood needs will be carried out inside the room, and not outside.

Natural heat insulators

As mentioned above, in addition to artificial ones, there are also so-called natural heat insulators. These include boards made from sawdust of the type Steico Flex, straw. And you can also use clay insulation, which is also considered a heater. In general, this category of heaters from the point of view of environmental friendliness is an excellent solution. In addition, they are inexpensive. But their main disadvantage is the complexity of creation. Also, flax fiber is used as a natural insulation, which has excellent antiseptic properties and prevents the appearance of mold and fungus. This material is easy to cut, install, and easy to work with.

Separately, it is necessary to talk about the Steico Flex material. This material is a wood fiber mat that is easy to install and process even without the use of tools.

Such material can not only insulate the walls, but also the floor, as well as the ceiling. In addition, such a heater will be an excellent solution not only for a wooden house, but also for a house made of chopped timber or lined with bricks. It also has excellent noise isolation characteristics and responds well to temperature changes.

Its use allows you to make the microclimate in the house as comfortable as possible for its inhabitants.

Thickness calculation

An important point is the calculation of the thickness of the insulation. It should be noted that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness of the walls of the house, as well as climatic features. But to know how thick the insulation should be is simply necessary. If there is too much of it, then this can adversely affect the house, and an insufficient amount will cause the low efficiency of the insulation process as a whole.

In addition, this parameter also significantly affects the design of the frame, since it is very important to know at what distance from the walls the guides for the outer skin should be placed. It is not difficult to make such calculations yourself, especially if you apply a certain calculation methodology. Its essence is that the total heat transfer resistance of a wall of several layers of construction R should not be less than calculated for a certain climatic region.

It should be noted that the wall is not only the frame itself, but also the entire interior decoration, thermal insulation layer, as well as the exterior decoration of the facade. Each layer has its own thermal resistance index, which also needs to be calculated.

To determine the specific required thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to know the thermal conductivity of each layer, as well as their thickness. The calculation will be carried out according to the formula: Rn = Hn / λn, where:

• Hn is the thickness of a specific layer;
• λn is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which this or that layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula will look like this: Hu = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3…) × λу, where

• λу is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the specified thermal insulator;
• H is the thickness of the insulation.

It is quite easy to find such coefficients. Sometimes manufacturers even indicate them on the packaging. Measuring the thickness of the layers is also not difficult. If there is no desire to calculate everything manually, then you can use an online calculator. It already has all the necessary basic and frequently used building, insulation and finishing materials.

Preparatory work

If we talk about the preparatory work before warming the house, then they should be carried out in the dry and warm season so that the walls are not frozen or damp. The surface of the walls must be cleaned as efficiently as possible from dirt, dust, moss, fungi. Be sure to carefully inspect the intervents seams. If you find any voids, then they must be re-sealed with a sealant, and then closed with a sealant. The same method can be used if you find deep cracks in the wood of a log house.

After that, priming is carried out. The primer is applied with a brush, carefully processing all the recesses, irregularities, as well as the end sections of the logs.

Note that if the tree absorbs the primer too quickly, then it is applied in two layers. After that, it is necessary to wait for the surface to dry completely and only then proceed to the process of warming itself.

If the work is carried out using the technology of a hinged facade, it is required to carry out its preparation, which consists of the following stages:

• the implementation of the dismantling of all elements of the hinged type that may interfere with the work (antennas, visors, window sills and ebbs);
• treatment of walls with antiseptic impregnation;
• closure of interventional gaps with a heater, if any.

In general, this is an approximate list of preparatory work. But it may differ depending on the type and structure of the house, the chosen insulation technology, as well as the features of the building itself.

Installation steps

Consider an exemplary algorithm for warming both in the case of ventilated facade technology and in the case of wet facade technology, which are done by hand.

So, if the preparatory work on the creation of a hinged facade is done correctly and the technology is observed, then after that the installation of the frame for insulation begins.

At the first stage, it is necessary to equip the ventilation gap. To do this, attach boards with a thickness of 2 centimeters to the walls. You can arrange them however you like. The main thing is that later you can attach racks to them.

After that, we attach a vapor barrier film to the boards using a stapler. Be sure it must be stretched and overlapped so that there is space between it and the wall. Places where there will be joints should be glued with tape. It should be noted that the insulation of the ventilation gap is important, because if this is not done, moisture may begin to accumulate between the insulation and the wall, which will lead to bad consequences. After that, the racks are installed. First, two extreme racks are mounted, between which the ropes should be pulled. These will be a kind of beacons for intermediate type rails. The installation of the outer racks is carried out at the same distance from the wall and only vertically.

If the boards are used as drains, then they should be strengthened with metal corners and self-tapping screws. After that, the installation of intermediate rails is carried out, which are located at a distance of 1-2 centimeters from the mineral wool slabs.

Now it is necessary to lay heat-insulating material in the space between the racks. As a rule, in this case it is better to use mineral wool. The mats should fit as close as possible to each other and the racks so that there are no gaps in the insulation. After that, a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame. It should also be overlapped. It is fixed with the help of horizontal rails, which will also hold the insulation. This completes the insulation of the facade in this way.

After that, the frame should be sheathed, which will be the final step. Finishing may vary. If you do not have any pronounced preferences, then focus primarily on the price and quality of the material.

For example, lining is an eco-friendly material that allows you to maintain an attractive appearance of the house. And if you take vinyl siding, then such material is easy to clean and does not require any special care.

If you decide to still apply siding, then the sequence of actions will be as follows:

• it is necessary to carry out the installation of the starting profile, which should be placed horizontally around the perimeter of the house (it will not be superfluous to leave a distance from the ground or blind area to the profile of about ten centimeters);
• appropriate profiles are mounted in the corners of the house;
• the first row of panels is installed: from below, the siding is inserted into the starting profile, and from above it and the crate are connected using self-tapping screws;
• according to this mechanism, the whole house is sheathed with siding;
• before installing the last panel, it is necessary to fix the final profile;
• at the end, the installation of the remaining elements is carried out: ebbs, slopes, and so on.

This is where the siding ends. It should be said that according to the same scheme, the house is sheathed with clapboard, thermal panels or other materials.

If we are talking about a wet facade, then after preparation, the walls of the house are immediately pasted over with mineral wool for plastering. To begin with, we prepare the glue, after which we apply it to the mineral mats with a notched trowel. It will not be superfluous to use the building level, as well as pull the beacons so that all the plates are located in the same plane. After all the walls of the house are pasted over, the mineral wool should be fixed to the wall with the help of umbrella dowels.

Now window openings, including gables, are pasted over with mineral wool. Dowels do not need to be installed on window slopes, but it is necessary on door slopes. After that, we apply the rule to various sections of the walls and check if there are any bumps. After that, glue the perforated corners on the outer corners with glue. In the final, we cover the dowel caps with glue so that the facade is smooth.

Now we carry out the process of reinforcement, which is also called rough plastering. First, we prepare the mesh by cutting it into pieces of the required size. Then we cut pieces for slopes. Now we glue the grid on the slopes, after which we do the same actions with the walls. When everything is dry, apply the glue again with a thin layer and eliminate irregularities. Now it remains only to apply decorative plaster. This process will be easier than reinforcement, and is carried out in the following sequence:

• the walls of the house are treated with a primer (it is best to apply it in two layers);
• the solution is prepared according to the instructions on the pack;
• decorative plaster is applied to the walls with a spatula, while the layer should be as thin as possible;
• when the plaster begins to set on the walls, it is necessary to wipe it with a small one, which will allow you to create a pattern;
• it remains only to paint the house, and everything will be ready.

In general, as you can see, it is possible to insulate a wooden house from the outside on your own. But it is important to observe the technology of this process as much as possible, to have a clear understanding of the nuances of the work and to determine exactly which method of insulation and what material is suitable for this.