Home electrification is one of the main stages in creating ideal living conditions. But to bring electricity - this does not mean that everything will be reliable. A lot of things depend on how the installation of the socket boxes is carried out in a concrete wall, or in drywall. They are also called installation boxes. Without socket boxes, it is impossible to make normal sockets that will hold even under heavy loads. Let's talk about what work needs to be done and what is required to install these items.

What are sockets and their types

Socket boxes are called special boxes made of certain materials (plastic, metal, etc.). These elements are used when mounting electrical points (sockets) on the walls. The main purpose of the socket boxes is to ennoble the hole in the wall and at the same time they make it suitable for further installation of sockets or switches.

In addition, socket boxes are also used when lowering or moving sockets as a junction box. This makes it possible to carry out all the work as conveniently as possible without making additional chasing of holes in the wall and without taking out the old wiring. Socket boxes can now be found on store shelves in round, square, rectangular and with rounded edges.

Various sockets

Previously, all sockets were made of metal. They were called sleeves and were used everywhere. Today, metal sockets are used only in wooden houses, where it is necessary to comply with fire safety conditions. Among the disadvantages of such sleeves are:

• very weak fastening of sockets and switches;
• the sleeves do not adhere well to the solution, which leads to the outlet falling out;
• there is also a high probability of damaging the wires with sharp edges.

When to install?

To be honest, there are practically no restrictions for installing socket boxes within the time frame. They can be mounted both before the start of work, and after their completion. The only exception are walls that have not yet been plastered. Installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is also not recommended after pasting it with wallpaper, there is a high probability of damaging the coating itself.

Some electricians decide to save their time and know the thickness of the plaster layer in advance. To be honest, this method is rather doubtful, since no one can say the exact values, and subsequently there is a high probability that the socket will stick out strongly from the wall, or vice versa - it will be recessed into it.

According to the rules, socket boxes, like junction boxes, must be mounted flush with the wall, or go into it no more than 2 mm.

Using outlet holes

markup

The marking of the route includes the designation of the locations of the outlets. They are determined by checking with the project or wiring diagram.

The socket box is mounted in concrete only after a hole has been formed using a crown or a perforator with a spike. Fixation is carried out using a building mixture (alabaster, putty, etc.). The locations of the outlets are marked as follows:

1. From the very beginning, it is required to mark the desired vertical distance from the floor on the wall. If we take according to the standards, then all sockets should be located no higher than 40 cm, and switches should be approximately at a height of 90 cm.
2. Next, a socket box is applied and outlined along the contour with a marker or pencil.
3. A crown is selected according to the size of the socket and a hole is drilled.

Drilling process

There are several ways to make a hole. The choice of tools depends entirely on the material of the wall. The easiest way is to make recesses in foam concrete and other porous concrete. One of the most difficult materials is ordinary monolithic concrete.

Holes for sockets can be made in three ways:

1. With the help of a special crown;
2. Using a drill (a wall is drilled around the perimeter and then broken out);
3. With a hammer and chisel.

Making an outlet hole

As already mentioned, making holes in concrete with your own hands is the hardest thing. For this reason, we will consider this method in as much detail as possible.

To make recesses, not those crowns are used that can be used to work on porous concrete and drywall. This requires a heavy-duty diamond-coated nozzle. This guarantees its strength. Additionally, a high-alloy metal is used as a base. Although such crowns are effective, their cost is quite high. So not everyone can afford such a thing.

Additionally, it is worth noting that making recesses using this technique takes a lot of time. The tool itself gets very hot and needs to be allowed to rest. For these reasons, making 30-40 holes can take 2-3 days, which is quite a lot. To save time, it is much better to make a drill along the contour of the hole and then knock out the concrete with a chisel yourself.

Installation and termination of socket boxes

The process of carrying out work on the installation of socket boxes is carried out in a certain sequence. Observing it, you can carry out the work efficiently and without further alterations. So, the workflow is as follows:

Then just wait about an hour and you can use the socket for its intended purpose. This instruction will allow you to carry out the installation as correctly as possible and at the same time it will take a minimum of time to complete. Even with independent work, there should be no difficulties.

Things to remember

The very first thing to remember is that the consistency of the mixture plays a very important role in embedding. It should be moderately thick, otherwise it simply will not flow into all holes and will not create the desired adhesion. A highly liquid consistency will also not allow you to fully work, as it will simply flow out of the hole.

Do not install with hammer blows. There is a high chance of damage to the box. And the effect of this will be small. It is best to use gypsum to seal the hole. You can also use gypsum plaster, but its use requires knowledge of some rules.

The first thing is good adhesion to the spatula, which requires frequent wetting. Gypsum does not have such properties and it is much easier to spread it on the socket. The second is uneven freezing. So, if the top is already dry, then inside there is a high probability of fluidity of the material. This leads to the fact that by leveling the socket, you can deform the surface, which is already flat.

Installation method in drywall

Installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is slightly different from the sequence of work on a surface exposed by drywall. The fact is that the element will be located in the space between the wall and the sheets, where there is no place to catch on. The installation sequence is carried out as follows:

1. From the very beginning, you need to determine where the wires pass and drill a hole with a crown.
2. We bring the wires out and isolate them.
3. Next, we stretch the ends of the wires through the socket and fasten it to the drywall. At the same time, the adjusting screws allow the special legs to diverge, and the sleeve is fixed tightly.

If the drywall is attached to the wall with a building mixture, then there are also some nuances here. Although this is rarely done, there are times when this method is the only way out. So, first you need to prepare two crowns: for drywall and concrete. First, take the first one and cut through the sheet. Next, we change it to a diamond crown and make a recess in the concrete. It should be borne in mind that the sockets in this case must be used shallow to minimize the cost of force. After drilling, you need to knock out everything that remains in the recess and then embedding is done in the same way as in a conventional concrete wall.

As a rule, the installation of socket boxes does not take much time and is not difficult. For this reason, they can be performed independently without involving specialists. Be sure to stock up on a few power tools in the form of a hammer drill or drill. This will make it possible to solve the issue of cooling, since while the first “unit” will work, the second will rest, and so on in turn.

socket box- this is a plastic cylinder that is mounted on the wall for the subsequent installation of sockets or switches in it. There are type-setting sockets (as in the picture) and double, triple, quadruple, etc.

Installation of socket boxes in concrete walls

Also, socket boxes differ in the type of installation: for monolithic bases and for sheet materials. Standard dimensions of the socket box: diameter 60 mm, depth 40 mm.

Consider mounting the socket box in a monolithic base.

First of all, you need to decide where the socket will be located, decide how many pieces you need and choose the height from the floor.

If you are making socket boxes for sockets, then the recommended height is 25-50 cm from the floor, if socket boxes are for switches, then the height is 90-120 cm from the floor.

Also, it is necessary to consider from which side the electrical wire will be supplied in order to properly make holes in the socket.

In the example, the wire is fed into one socket from above.

Then it is necessary to knock out a recess in the wall according to the size of the sockets, so that they are flush with the wall. It is best to knock out a perforator with a spear nozzle.

You can also use a grinder with a diamond disc to cut along the contour, and then knock out the middle with a perforator. In this case, you will get an even, neat recess, but there will be a lot of dust from this method.

To glue the sockets, putty or tile adhesive is suitable. If you want to immediately proceed with the installation of wiring, then I recommend using alabaster (gypsum plaster), its setting time is about 5 minutes.

In our example, putty is used.

Dilute it with water, and apply with a spatula into the recess.

We take the sockets and insert them into the recess, but not sinking too much.

With the help of the level, we drown the sockets flush with the wall.

We press the level horizontally and vertically to each socket.

Align the sockets horizontally. We use the holes for self-tapping screws on the body of the socket box as a guide, apply a level and align. If you have more than three socket boxes, then you also need to make sure that they do not bend, all holes for self-tapping screws should be on the same straight line.

Having exposed, we cover the edges, leaving a small unsmeared area on top, for laying the wire.

After laying the wires, you can cover them completely.

In the same way, you can install any number of sockets.

Installation of socket boxes in hollow structures.

Let's consider an example of mounting a socket box in a ventilation unit.

The wall thickness of this block is about 3 cm, which is unlikely to allow installing a socket box on putty, but, as you know, there are no hopeless situations.

We cut the hole with a grinder with a diamond disc according to the size of the sockets.

Using pebbles, pieces of drywall and all sorts of crap, we set the sockets according to the level.

Now carefully foam the edges using mounting foam.

We stretch the wire and foam to the end.

After the foam has completely hardened, cut off the excess.

And the last thing I haven’t mentioned yet is the fastening of the socket boxes to drywall or other sheet materials.

This will require a crown of the desired diameter, as well as special sockets.

You can identify them by their appearance, they have two additional hooks along the edges.

In order to install them, it is enough to drill a hole equal to the outer diameter of the socket, insert it, and then tighten two screws along the edges until the socket is completely pressed against the surface.

That's all.

Happy installation :)

How to install a socket in a concrete wall

When it is refurbished, it's time to start understanding where we will have the furniture, what place will be for the TV or the refrigerator ... And it often turns out that a new place for some devices that are not equipped with an outlet leads to the next not being worn or stretched.

“In general, why do you need these housing transfers?” Think.

Then the order appears - to install the socket. But the wall is made of strong Soviet concrete: hitting a chisel won't work here, it's not a brick. But it does not matter! Armed puncher, and today we will participate in a competition where a particular fortress will fight with the ingenuity of a Russian man!

What we need

We shouldn't ignore these items as some of them depend on your health.

• perforator;
• More corners with 8mm diameter;
• top for chasing;
• Caps PPE;
• Building goggles (required subject);
• pencil;
• brush and water;
• Gypsum plaster, blade and all mortar preparation solutions;
• Copper triple cable;
• coatings;
• Installation of wires;
• Rosetta;
• Screwdriver.

So let's go to work

1. Find a place in the apartment where you can connect your future.

   Perhaps it will be an old socket on the same wall. You don't need it and you don't normally use it. Well, a good reason to get rid of it, because it's been so long, tired of you, I thought you decided to take it apart and connect it with a cable from the new connector that it will need;

2. Take the submole and connect it to the place in the wall where the next socket is to be installed, circle this space;
3. If you want to drill a hole, you can take a beaver crown here, if you don't, then take a hit and start drilling holes for the length of the drill.

   Now turn the other hole in the middle;

4. Align the socket to the point where the connector is inserted and drill holes every 30 cm to secure the embedded wire;
5. Wait for the brewery to cool down and move to the top;
6. Using a pike, start punching through the concrete from the hole that forms it.

   The process is lengthy, so be patient. Also, don't forget that you will need to keep expanding the hole that was created from below, trying to use the brush;

7. Now that the bulk of the work is done, try again in the sub - it should be fully inserted into the hole, and sitting in it definitely does not give out any of its parts.

   This is important for the correct and smooth installation of the outlet;

8. Take a brush, dip it in water, and thoroughly clean the hole and trick under the wire;
9. Attach the wire in the stem to the clamps and make sure it doesn't stick out any longer;
10. We are now preparing the solution so that its consistency is clean;





11. Turn the spatula into the hole and insert the plaster with shields, pull the wire into it, level it and let it harden the plaster;
12. Leave the plaster with the remaining plaster and let it freeze;
13. Once the solution has hardened, you can proceed directly to the installation of the socket.

    Take out the socket and connect the red (white) and the blue, insulated from the insulation, to the phase (L) and neutral (N) connections. The yellow wire is responsible for grounding, and if it is not in your home, you cannot clean it. Then insert this knot into the podrozetnik so as not to interfere with its separating lepeski (rest) and the ears of the screws were placed on the screws themselves, which are screwed into the podrozetnik;



14. Tighten the bolts in the jars and make sure that the nest on all sides is installed as close to the wall as possible.

    Also, make sure it is positioned horizontally inside the subcontractor with no curvature;

15. Penultimate phase. Remove the plastic housing from the socket and insert it into place;

Socket connection



Everything is almost ready, and the most important moment has come - connecting the outlet. Now you must go to the ground and turn off the apartment.

If you don't know where the cars from your dwelling are, check with your neighbors where their cars are and, as a result, yours if you are operating with an exception. Now turn off the one that is responsible for supplying electricity to the right side of the living quarters.

Instructions for installing outlets in concrete walls

If you don't know, disable everything.

Well, now you can safely participate in the connection. Pull the wires out of the new plug with the old ones and tighten the PPE caps on top. That's all, we hope this article helped you!

Installation guide for sockets in a concrete wall

Every builder and homeowner or homeowner works with the important task of replacing electrical wiring throughout their lives.



Replacing electrical installations is a responsible process that requires close attention and attention.

To ensure the quality of the wiring, enough time and attention must be given to prevent this issue from occurring in the near future.

Wiring types

Wiring is carried out in two versions: internal wiring and external.

Older houses often have external electrical appliances.

Installing windmills in a concrete wall

This is inappropriate and dangerous. To replace an old socket with a new one (or a switch), the old one must be disassembled. Before starting the wiring, the electrical voltage must be turned off using the input machines.

Tools

To start the installation, you need to have a set of tools:

• drilling or drilling, crown or drill;
• plastic bag (very popular and easy to install);
• socket kit.

First mark the place to install, and then rotate the required circle size.

Completing the installation and fastening of the juniper will help the building materials: a mixture of gypsum, alabaster, or already prepared quick-drying mixtures.

Installation should begin by marking the location of the underlays in the concrete wall (mark the circle with a pencil or marker).

Then, using a puncher or drill, turn the circle to the desired size. We're trying to include a piece in it. If there are irregularities in the niche, remove them with a chisel, screwdriver and hammer.

On the side where the wires fit, remove the plug and place it in the hole.

Proper installation of sockets in a concrete wall does not work without Strublen channels to cover electrical wires. For these jobs you will need:

• angle grinder (Bulgarian);
• discs for concrete.

Finishing work

The main rotor is fixed in the wall using alabaster or mortar.

Return to the installation screen in the concrete wall: it needs to be leveled with a water scale, it must not go down on the wall because it is impossible to mount the nest and they stick to it, it was not necessary because

It's ugly and dangerous.

Block the closet in the wall with alabaster, plaster. The drilled hole must be drilled before using the fixing mortar. Then a spatula or structural spatula will need to fill the hollow hole and cover the resulting mixture and the self-curing outside. Insert a box of extra mix to fill empty molds.

Alabaster and cold freeze for 5-10 minutes, and then we will continue to work until the installation of the outlet.

Proceed straight from the socket installation, loosen the connectors, fasten the wires and terminals into them. Fasten the screws around the edges that are used to secure the socket to the back box. Then attach the plug to the center screw. Installation stopped.

Making holes in a concrete wall is a lot of work. The material is hard, needs in a specialized tool.

Particularly difficult is the task of installing a hidden socket that requires an appropriate recess.

An additional complication is the need to make not a through hole, but a recess with certain dimensions.

Solving the problem will require skills, experience, certain knowledge.

The question is not very difficult, but needs detailed consideration.

What is the best drilling

Drilling a hole in concrete is a test for strong-willed people. Builders try to use tools that are appropriate for the material to be processed.

Holes in concrete are often attempted with Pobedite (carbide) drills and the result remains unsatisfactory.

The hardness and abrasive qualities of concrete quickly disable the cutting edge of the drill.

The most successful tool that can deal with concrete is the hammer drill, which uses its own technique other than drilling.

Making a nest with a grinder is somewhat more difficult. You will need to install a diamond cutting disc, but you will not be able to complete the task entirely, you will have to bring the result with a puncher or an electric drill.

Works performed with solid types of concrete in the load-bearing walls of prefabricated houses require the use of the appropriate tool. You should not waste time trying to operate with unsuitable devices, you should immediately use specialized devices.

Using a puncher

Drilling concrete is useless.

The perforator drill copes with the task quite confidently, since a different principle is used - not cutting, but chipping small particles of concrete. The process is called rotary percussion drilling.

Making holes is possible in two ways:

• Consistent contouring of a pre-marked circle, with a diameter of 2-3 mm larger than the size of the socket.
• Using a special crown with diamond or victorious teeth.

The work is simple, but will require compliance with the sequence of actions:

• The hole for the socket box is marked with a necessarily marked center.
• The direction of the strobe is outlined - recesses for the cable channel.
• The depth of the socket is measured, marked on the drill with an allowance of about 3-5 mm using a strip of electrical tape.
• The central hole is drilled.
• Holes are drilled sequentially along the contour of the circle.

  The distance between them must be made as small as possible.

• The central part of the nest is knocked out with a chisel and a hammer.

Cutting the strobe is done with a puncher with a special blade-shaped nozzle that forms a neat groove.

The process is quite lengthy, noisy, but effective.

Crown for socket boxes

Using a crown makes it possible to form a neat circle of the nest. A crown with a diameter of 65 mm is usually used, corresponding to the typical size of the socket.

The use of a crown facilitates marking - just mark the center of the hole and drill a hole with a diameter of 7-8 mm.

The crown deepens into the wall at a sufficient distance with a small margin (3-5 mm).

The nest is removed with a chisel. Dense stubborn concrete is not easy to knock out, a few additional holes in the center will help ease the effort. Sometimes you have to almost completely drill out the central part.

The process is noisy, slow, but quite effective.

conventional drill

Using a drill will not create the desired effect. A carbide-tipped drill is much stronger than a conventional drill, but working with concrete is too difficult for it.

The exception is soft materials used for the manufacture of interior partitions:

• foam concrete;
• Brickwork;
• Slag or plaster blocks.

Carbide drill is able to work with soft types of concrete.

Installation of socket boxes: installation rules

Procedure:

• markup;
• Nest contouring;
• Knocking out the central parts with a chisel.

Instead of a crown, various attachments with circular saws of a suitable diameter can be used.

The manufacture of a strobe is done by creating multiple entries to a shallow depth (1.5-2 cm) located on the axis of the future wire.

The entries are connected to each other by pulling a rotating drill at an angle along the channel line. It is more convenient to make two narrow strips, passed at a distance of about 1 cm from each other, with the subsequent removal of the jumper between them.

Inside the strobe, a plastic cable channel is installed, or a wire is laid in double insulation.

Both options are equally possible, choose the one that suits you best.

Cutting out a grinder

Using an angle grinder, colloquially referred to as a grinder, is not the best option, but in the absence of other options, it will do.

The technique for making a nest is significantly different from the methods used when working with a hammer drill or an electric drill.

The grinder does not allow you to make a neat round hole of the desired diameter.

We have to work with more rough, exemplary methods. But the manufacture of a strobe to the socket is facilitated, since the angle grinder makes straight furrows perfectly. Procedure:

• Wall marking;
• Strobe penetration;
• Outlining a square with a side 2-3 mm larger than the outer diameter of the socket;
• Removal of the center of the square, the inner strip of the strobe;
• Installation of a socket box and cable channel;
• Filling excess space with sand-cement mortar, gypsum, alabaster mixture.

Safety

Work with concrete is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of dust, small fragments of stone.

The sharp edges of the particles are dangerous for the eyes and respiratory organs, so goggles and a respirator (gauze mask) must be used. Working with power tools requires compliance with specific safety rules.

It is forbidden to use defective tools that have damaged power cords.

During operations with a hammer and a chisel, it is necessary to monitor the strength of the hammer nozzle on the handle.

Hold the chisel perpendicular to the work surface. The riveted ends of the chisel must be removed.

Important Points

Dust formation is a serious problem during operation. Using a vacuum cleaner can significantly reduce the amount of dust and fine particles.

Hard, dense concrete grades (on load-bearing walls) are recommended to be moistened with water during operation. The material is less dusty, becomes more pliable.

Watch the detailed video:

Drilling holes must be carried out with full confidence that there is no danger of damage to the electrical cable.

If there are thick reinforcing bars in the walls, it is recommended to use a diamond-coated bit. It slowly but surely overcomes the reinforcement.

Doing

When installing modern sockets or indoor switches, their mechanisms must be placed in a special plastic box - a socket box. Today, almost all electrical fittings are made in such a way that it allows you to install several sockets or switches in one row.

Agree that one outlet in the kitchen is no longer enough, and outlets installed at different ends of the wall are not always convenient to use.

Therefore, often an electrician is designed in such a way that several points for connecting household appliances are located in one place. It is very practical and functional.

Some masters unknowingly assemble not under one multi-gang frame, but install free-standing sockets next to each other. This design does not create the impression of a single whole device, because of this, such an installation does not look very nice.

When installing a socket block, professionals always use a decorative frame for two, three or four windows.

But sometimes it happens that at the final stage of installation, sockets can hardly be installed in boxes, due to the fact that they overlap each other.

The decorative frame in this case also does not fall into place.

This is due to the fact that when installing the socket boxes, the distance between their centers was not respected. Ideally, the distance between the centers of the sockets should be 71 mm. And when installing a large number of boxes, they begin to shift relative to each other or deform under the action of the putty mixture.

Good afternoon dear friends!

I am glad to welcome you again on the Electrician in the House website. In this article, we will talk about one simple and, at the same time, useful thing for installation of sockets in brick walls, concrete and gas blocks. Those people who are professionally engaged in electrical installation know how difficult it is sometimes to install a block of five outlets evenly.

With the help of a simple device, which will be discussed in this article, you can install socket boxes with an accuracy of a millimeter.

Such things are not produced by industrial enterprises, so the craftsmen independently make homemade products suitable for them. This device in the slang of electricians is called socket mounting template. There are also names such as conductor or layout, but they all perform the same function.

Plank for installing socket boxes

Most plastic outlet boxes are 68mm in diameter and about 45mm deep.

Boxes from different manufacturers may differ slightly in size and characteristics, but the functionality is the same for all - being assembled into a block, they provide a center-to-center distance of the installed mechanisms of 71 millimeters.

To prevent the boxes from dancing relative to each other during installation, they must be rigidly fixed to each other.

How are boxes assembled into a block? Consider the Schneider Electric socket boxes for indoor installation. If you look closely at the front, there are special latches for docking several boxes.

You can also dock the boxes using special connectors - plugs.

At first glance, the matter seems simple - after collecting the boxes into a block, the required center-to-center dimensions are automatically obtained.

Why is a template needed at all for installing socket boxes? Everything fits together so well.

However, it should be borne in mind that in order to fix the socket, the entire space between the walls of the hole in the wall and the socket itself should be filled with mortar.

Therefore, the laying of the solution in the nest is carried out in excess. And when you start to press the box into place, the solution will begin to come out of all the cracks, filling the voids, resulting in a very strong fixation of the socket box.

But when pressing the box, it is necessary to apply a fair amount of force, under the influence of which the plastic box can simply burst or change shape (become oval), and a block of several boxes will surely blur in different directions.

At the final stage of installing the mechanisms of sockets and switches, it is impossible to compensate for all these shortcomings with calipers.

Moreover, during installation, the boxes must be clearly leveled so that the ends do not protrude and are not recessed, but are flush with the wall. When installing the socket block with your bare hands, this can be done, but a lot of time and effort is spent on this.

It was to solve such problems that I made myself such a device as a template for installing socket boxes, which saves not only time, but also nerves.

How to make a template for installing socket boxes with your own hands

Let's proceed directly to the manufacture of our device.

To do this, I took an aluminum corner measuring 40x40 mm. The length of the corner depends on the number of socket boxes installed in the block, plus the necessary indents from each edge for attaching the corner to the wall (approximately 10 - 15 cm on each side). I decided to make a layout for five socket boxes, so I took a 60 cm long corner.

By the way, it is not at all necessary to make a template from a corner, and even more so from aluminum.

You can take any rigid material of arbitrary shape, who has what, for example, a pipe profile. The convenience of the aluminum template is in its lightness. By the way, there were ideas to make a layout from a din rail, there is no need to drill holes there.

Now, in the center of the rib, where the boxes will be attached, you need to mark the line. On both sides of the corner, using a tape measure, we find the center and mark a line with a pencil.

Along the marked line, we will drill holes for mounting the socket boxes using self-tapping screws.

Our socket mounting template practically ready. Let's start drilling holes. To do this, a screwdriver and a metal drill with a size of 3 mm will help us.

We retreat from the edge of the corner 12 cm and drill the first hole.

To prevent the drill from slipping off the intended drilling site, I recommend that it be punched.

Then we measure the distance between the centers of the socket box screws and transfer it to our template. I got 60 mm. This will be the point for drilling the second hole. Similarly, we drill holes for all the sockets in the block.

Trying on a box on a plank

We retreat 5 cm along the edges of the corner and drill two more holes.

How to fix a socket in a concrete wall

During installation, this will help to press the entire structure against the wall.

Now we fix all the sockets on the finished layout, we get an even design that can be inserted into the wall without distortions and bends.

Let's see what distance we got between the centers of the boxes relative to the drilled holes:

To install the block of sockets, using a template, we throw a little solution into the hole in the wall, put the wires into the sockets and attach the template to the wall.

First you need to drill holes in the wall. We fix the corner to the wall with dowels.

The convenience of this design is that all boxes are installed with the exact distance relative to each other, and there is no need to constantly align and correct each box until the mortar is completely dry. Also, deformation of the boxes is excluded, and all of them are exposed flush with the wall.

You can make sharpening around the edges to make it convenient display template horizontally.

I hope, dear friends, the article was interesting for you, and this device will help you facilitate and speed up installation.

Who has any opinions? Maybe someone already uses this design or have opinions on how to improve it. Let's share our experience.

After finishing work on marking the wiring routes and the installation sites of switching equipment, the stage of drilling niches for socket boxes begins, or, as manufacturers correctly call them, round type-setting installation boxes without a cover.

In addition to the fastening function, they perform the role of fireproof protection against fire, plus they provide the required level of insulation. Since the walls are considered conductive material, it is impossible to put sockets in them directly without these boxes.

But first, you need not make a mistake with their choice.

Types of sockets

For concrete walls, a plastic version without presser feet is suitable.

Those that have such paws are used for plasterboard walls or plastic panels.

There are one-piece options for a different number of seats - from two to five.

Their main advantage is that they do not bend or deform during installation. Moreover, they can be used both in drywall and in a regular wall.

Well, the most scarce option today is a metal socket for wooden walls. It can be both with a bottom and without it.

With hidden wiring in a wooden house, only such specimens are allowed to be embedded in a tree.

The depth of the socket also plays a role. It is standard and in-depth.

Standard depth 45mm. Recessed version 60mm.

If you plan, in addition to the socket or switch itself, to also disconnect wires in it (tap to other sockets, etc.), then you only need to buy an in-depth one.

Tool and consumables

What tools will be needed to install the socket in a concrete wall?

A more expensive option, but it has its advantages:

1) drilling time for the socket box, almost the same as with the SDS-max bit
2) the use of a lightweight SDS-plus puncher - hands get tired less, no bumps
3) less noise and dust when working

Remember that diamond drilling excludes any impact mode. Only drill mode is allowed.

The instructions usually indicate to diamond crowns that they are designed for wet drilling. However, as practice shows, the wear of the crown, even with dry work, is minimal.

In addition, when water is supplied, slag can "knit" the crown. Crowns for drilling conventional sockets, as a rule, should be 68mm in diameter.

If you do not want to drive the installation box into a niche, but have a place for its free installation and adjustment, then use a diameter of 72mm. For the block type, only these are suitable.

Some use a diameter of 65mm, after which they even manage to tightly insert a socket or switch directly into the resulting hole, spreading the product with their paws against a concrete wall or even drywall.

This cannot be done, as mentioned above, the walls are considered conductive material.

If you suddenly start to knock out the RCD in your house, one of the reasons for this may be just the refusal to use socket boxes, and the installation of sockets directly into the wall. Therefore, do not sin immediately on the cable, but check the sockets first.

The PUE also speaks about the need to install socket boxes:

Rules for mounting the socket

The order of work is as follows:

Drilling depth - 5 cm.

If you leave it, then when the punch is swaying during operation, the drill may give a wedge and break off. In addition, when diamond drilling without impact, the drill will only smooth the concrete and interfere with work.

• finish drilling concrete with a crown to the required depth (approximately 5 cm)

The depth can be set in advance by attaching the box to the bit and marking the desired drilling distance with a marker.

When drilling, it is necessary to slightly shake the hammer from side to side. This is necessary so that the sludge comes out and does not jam the crown. In this case, you need to adapt, since strong staggering also leads to a wedge.

This action greatly affects both the speed of work and the increase in the service life of the product.

Installation in high-strength concrete with reinforcement

If the concrete turned out to be high-strength, you started drilling and realized that it was for a long time, you can make your work much easier.

To do this, along the started circle, make several holes with an 8mm drill. You should end up with something that looks like a drum from a revolver.

After that, continue diamond or impact drilling. Then it should go like clockwork.

If you hit a large rebar, and you don’t want to spoil the new crown, then there are two ways to get out of the situation:

• switch the puncher to the chipper mode and knock it out with a chisel

True, this can be great to contribute to the appearance of new cracks in the plaster.

Knock out concrete from the niche (using a chisel and a hammer or a perforator), while providing a bevel for entering the cable into the socket.

Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all debris and dust.

Preparation of mortar and installation in a niche

The next stage is the installation of the socket boxes themselves in the prepared niches. You can install socket boxes on alabaster, putty or gypsum.

The curing time of gypsum is approximately four to five minutes. Of course, in 5 minutes to finish the installation work is not a problem. The main headache is the solidification of the prepared solution in a diluted container and the inability to use it for other work.

Therefore, to prevent the gypsum from hardening too quickly, you can mix plaster (Rotband) into it. You will win extra 10-20 minutes. For 3 parts plaster, add 2 parts putty.

Just plaster holds much weaker. When hardening, the cement mortar shrinks, and the gypsum, on the contrary, expands slightly and securely clamps the socket in the niche from all sides.

In order for alabaster, gypsum to adhere more firmly, the niche must be moistened. Use a sprayer or squeegee.

By the way, it is best to do a wire strobe not in the center, but to the left or right of the hole in the wall.

Since the outlet in the socket itself is on the side.

The solution is thrown into the drilled hole in the niche.

A socket is inserted into the niche.

Everything is rubbed with a spatula and the remains of the solution are removed from the outside.

The main task is to align and fix the socket in its place. Pay attention to the fact that its edges do not protrude from the wall.

Once the solution sets, you can remove all excess from the inside.

After finishing work, the sockets themselves are installed. This seemingly simple job also has its own rules and mistakes that can lead to irreparable consequences.

Common mistakes

• installation of socket boxes is recommended to be done after plastering the walls

Otherwise, you may not be able to align the outlet flush. And also due to a couple of extra centimeters of plaster, you can easily have enough depth, and you never reach the reinforcement.

However, it is not always possible to follow such a sequence of repair work. For example, if you have a plaster mesh laid as reinforcement on some grounds (such as gas blocks), then cutting a strobe along it nullifies the meaning of all reinforcement.

Therefore, if you have no other possibility, then you will have to adhere to a certain technology for installing socket boxes before plastering. Here is a good, high-quality example of such work:

• installation of sockets in a concrete wall without a socket

As mentioned above, this is against the rules. And if at first everything will work properly, then expect problems in the future (the walls will start to shock, or the RCD will work).

The solution will float, and the box will move 1-2 mm from its seat. You can of course buy a special template for installing a large block.

But it is easier to use this not tricky device.

In addition, the foam does not give the walls of the box the necessary rigidity, and how firmly the socket will sit in it remains a big question. Therefore, never be lazy to dilute the solution and use alabaster, gypsum or other mixtures.

• incorrect cable routing

When laying the cable, control its position. It should not pass through those places where the mounting antennae of the socket will burst in the future.

Often it is with these antennae that they pierce the insulation of the wires, after which the voltage is on the case!

• socket popping out of the wall

If the box already mounted in the wall jumped out of the wall, and the wallpaper is pasted on the outside and there is no possibility and desire to stain everything with a solution, then use a self-tapping screw. Screw the dowel into the base of the socket and pull it to the back wall.

However, this option is still considered temporary. With a tight pulling of the plug from the outlet, the entire structure can again be pulled out by the roots.

The drill after passing the guides 5-10mm must be pulled out. Without a blow, it will practically not work for you, but only interfere.

When installing hidden electrical wiring in a house or apartment, it is impossible to do without such an element as a socket box. The socket box is used for mounting electrical sockets, switches, regulators, thermostats and similar equipment.

The most common are socket boxes with a diameter of 65-68 mm and a depth of 40 to 60 mm, which have a circular cross section.

Simple box for concrete wall

Concrete and brick sockets, unlike drywall sockets, do not have retaining feet:

In this article, we'll take a step-by-step look at the process of installing a socket box into a concrete wall.

Required tools and materials:

• Perforator;
• Special crown for concrete;
• Putty knife;
• plastic bucket;
• Acrylic primer;
• Alabaster or plaster putty.

The sequence of installing the socket in a concrete wall:

Step 1. We mark the installation location of the socket. When repairing modern apartments, it is customary to install sockets at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and switches - at a height of 90 cm. But at the same time, convenience is the most important factor for choosing a place to install a socket box.

Step 2 We drill a hole in the wall. You can conveniently and quickly make a hole for the socket using a puncher and a special crown for impact drilling.

I used a "Practice" bit with a diameter of 68 mm, which is designed to work on concrete, brick and stone:

In the absence of this crown, a hole can also be made using a drill. To do this, we drill a lot of holes at the installation site of the socket box, and then we hollow out the concrete with a chisel, which is also installed on the puncher.

Step 3 After the hole in the wall is ready, you need to try on the socket and make sure that the depth of the hole corresponds to the length of the socket. Then you should break out one of the plugs of the socket and skip the electrical cable. The device of the strobe for the cable must be completed before fixing the socket.

Step 4 We dust the walls of the niche under the socket. To do this, we remove concrete dust with a brush or brush, and impregnate the walls of the niche with an acrylic primer, and in its absence, simply with water.

Step 5 When installing socket boxes in concrete or brick, the question often arises: "With what help to fix the socket?". The most reliable and affordable way is to use building gypsum - alabaster or gypsum mixtures (putties and plasters).

Materials that are used to fix the sockets: alabaster, gypsum putty and gypsum plaster

I fixed the socket with a universal putty Knauf Fugen. The advantage is that this material is widely used in interior decoration, so if you are engaged in repairs, then most likely you have it, and also gypsum putty sets quite quickly and securely fixes the socket box.

The socket box is an important component of the socket, the reliability of its fastening and much more depends on the correct installation of it.

Recently, the number of electrical appliances used in everyday life has grown significantly and therefore the installation of a new electrical point is required quite often. In this regard, instructions on how to install a socket box are quite in demand among home craftsmen.

An important role is played by the wall into which the outlet is supposed to be mounted. There are two types: corpulent and hollow (frame).

Solid: wooden (beam, log) and stone (brick, concrete, foam blocks, etc.)

Peculiarities:

• the drilled hole is 5-10 mm larger than the diameter of the socket: the gap is filled with a fixing solution;
• a socket box of the simplest design is used - without clamping bars.

Overheads used in garages and outbuildings are easier to install; socket boxes for them are not considered in this article.

Number of power points

When installing several sockets side by side, it is required to determine the center distance between them, proceed in one of the following ways:

1. purchase a block of sockets. In it, the glasses are connected by jumpers and spaced from each other at the correct distance (usually 71 mm). It remains only to transfer their outlines to the wall;
2. when installing individual sockets: put the front panels on the table to each other and measure the center distances between them.

Those who are professionally engaged in installation make a template in the form of a rail with marked hole centers or a stencil with slots.

Socket classification

Sockets are classified according to several criteria.

By material:

1. plastic. The most common. They are inexpensive, durable enough;
2. metal. They surpass the previous version in terms of strength and reliability, but they are rarely used, since the quality of the plastic for attaching the socket is quite enough. In addition, when using a metal socket, the likelihood of a short circuit in it increases. The use of these products, due to their incombustibility, is justified when installing hidden wiring in walls made of logs or timber. They are installed by wrapping them with basalt cardboard or other non-combustible heat insulator.

Structurally:

1. for installation in solid walls. Structural elements are available only inside - ebbs for fixing the socket;
2. for installation in a frame wall. In addition to ebbs inside, they have clamping strips outside and flanging at the end. When the screws connected to the slats are rotated, the wall sheathing is clamped between them and the flanging.

By installation method:

1. embedded. They look like a glass, installed in a hole in the wall;
2. invoices. This is a plate screwed to the wall with dowels. Overhead sockets are installed not only in rooms with low requirements for aesthetics (garages, outbuildings), but sometimes in residential areas. For example, above the baseboard, if the wire is laid behind it.

By form:

1. round. The most common option;
2. oval. They are used to install two devices, for example, a socket and a switch;
3. square. Rarely seen. Basically, overhead socket boxes have this form.

The socket for the frame wall can be installed in a full-bodied one - you just need to bite off the clamping strips with pliers. It is impossible to install a socket for a solid wall in a frame wall.

Cup sizes

Socket boxes for conventional installation, offered by domestic manufacturers, have an outer diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 45 mm. Larger models are also available - 60 and 80 mm deep. They are used when it is necessary to locate the switch in the socket, for example, when connecting sockets in series () or when there is no separate junction box.

Sockets for frame walls have a shallower depth - up to 25 mm. Products of foreign manufacturers may vary slightly in size. For example, the diameter of the socket boxes of the Schneider Electric brand is 65 mm, the Legrand brand is 70 mm.

Such slight differences in diameter usually do not play a special role, since they vary within the range of the mounting spacers of the socket (the position is adjusted by screws). Nevertheless, it is recommended to go to the store for a socket with a socket for trying on.

Preparation for installation and marking

At the preparatory stage, you should determine the location of the new outlet and the trajectory of laying the wire to it.

There are two installation methods:

1. eurostandard: 15-30 cm from the floor. It is convenient if the device is turned on all the time - the cord lies on the floor and does not block the room;
2. Soviet GOST: 100 cm from the floor. It is convenient if the devices are often turned on and de-energized from the socket - you do not have to bend over.

European standard for the height of sockets and switches

The minimum distance from the outlet to the corner, floor, ceiling, door and window openings is 15 cm. To a gas stove or heater - 50 cm. The wires are laid horizontally and vertically: they are led along the ceiling (also 15 cm from it) to a point above the location of the future outlet, then descend to it.

In order to save the wire, it is not allowed to lay it diagonally: then it will be difficult to remember the trajectory if it is necessary to drill the wall, for example, to install a shelf.

Having decided, they draw with a simple pencil the route for laying the wire and the center of the hole for the outlet. If there are several sockets, the centers of the holes for them are marked with horizontal control by the building level. Then, according to the marking, a groove (groove) is cut out in the wall for laying the cable.

Making holes in the wall

A hole in the wall is made in several ways:

1. crown. Preferred option: it turns out relatively quickly and evenly. They are drilled to the desired depth, then the resulting cylinder is knocked out with a hammer and chisel. Cold water is supplied to the bit during drilling to prevent overheating. To drill with a drill, you need a crown with a center drill. If it is not there - a tool designed for a stationary drilling machine. A drill can be armed with it only if a conductor is used - a board with a hole of the same diameter, which plays the role of a guide;
2. hammer and chisel;
3. drill. In the impact mode, a lot of holes are drilled close to each other with a drill, then the gaps between them are knocked out with a chisel. This method is also used in conjunction with a crown if it is heavily worn: several holes are drilled along the contour with a drill, then the gaps between them are selected with a crown.

After making the hole, the bottom of the stray is deepened obliquely on the way to it so that it is possible to lead the wire into the socket through the back wall. Next, a wire is mounted in the groove in the corrugated pipe and sealed with a solution. The wire is cut to such a length that at least 20 cm of the free end of the cable remains from the socket.

In drywall, a hole is drilled with a crown on wood, turning off the impact mode and not pressing hard on the drill.

Installation of socket boxes

Installation of a socket box in a solid wall is carried out in the following order:

1. with any tool at hand, a hole for the wire is cut out on the back of the socket. There are already notches for several holes - you should choose the right one. A wire is laid through the hole in the socket;
2. when connecting the outlet, the outer common insulation of the cable is cut so that it remains at the point of passage through the hole in the wall of the socket. This prevents damage to the wires on the edge of the hole;
3. a small amount of gypsum, alabaster or cement mortar is laid in a recess. It is not allowed to replace it with construction foam, as it is a combustible material (foamed polymer polyurethane);
4. Install the socket box in the recess so that its front edge is flush with the wall surface. The excess solution is removed, and if it is lacking, it is added with a spatula;
5. when the solution sets a little, its traces are removed from the inner surface of the socket.

Installing a socket in a frame wall is done as follows:

• the part is inserted into the hole so that the flange at the end rests against the wall;
• by rotating special screws, tighten the clamping strips so that the wall is sandwiched between them and the flanging.

Useful video

How to install the socket in the wall:

As you can see, the installation of the socket is not difficult. The main thing is to choose the right product so that the socket matches its size and holds firmly. To do this, you should take the outlet with you, going to the store for a socket.

In the well-forgotten times of global scarcity, hidden sockets were installed forever. The block with terminals was literally walled up in concrete or in a brick wall. Sometimes without a mounting box at all. Ordinary citizens did not have the right to dream of repairing an electric point with their own hands. Now, a novice in electrical engineering can easily handle fixing and connecting an upgraded device. The developers of the sockets thoroughly thought out and polished the entire process of their installation. An important point in the process is the installation of socket boxes, thanks to which the repair and replacement of devices does not cause meager difficulties.

Installation box selection criteria

The stock of wires must be formed precisely into loops or into “soft” folds. The formation of sharp creases is highly undesirable. It is necessary to position the loops at the bottom of the installation box so that the pieces of wire stripped of insulation do not touch.

The current-carrying cores of wires with a cross section of 2.5 squares or more of the specified size are quite rigid. Rolling up and laying them in loops under the socket block will be very problematic if the inner depth of the socket box is 15-30 useful cm. This means that a deeper socket box will be required to install an outlet connected to the source with a thick cable.

Algorithm for installing a socket box in a solid wall

Owners of wooden baths are easier. They are recommended by the requirements of the PUE the device of open wiring and the installation of overhead sockets. They will not have any special complications either with the laying of the power line, or with the fastening of the supply points. The owners of cultural and hygienic objects made of concrete or brick have to go through a thorny and laborious path. But before moving in the chosen direction, you should figure out how to install the socket in a solid wall.

Starting stage: markup

For a home master who is ignorant of the intricacies of organizing bath wiring, markup undoubtedly seems to be the simplest process. An no. You will have to observe the code of laws of the PUE:

• in steam rooms and washing rooms, shower compartments and saunas, the installation of plug-type sockets with all the necessary personal belongings is prohibited;
• the bath electrical network must be connected to a ground loop or to lightning protection;
• from the doorway of the shower cabin located in the bath, the socket should be removed at least 60 cm;
• the power source of the bath wiring is allowed to be installed in the rest room;
• the shield should be equipped with a difavtomat or other means of protection.

There is a council that is not indicated in the rules of the PUE, but has a technically justified right to exist. It is better to bring the cable to the outlet from below so that drops of condensate do not accidentally flow into the device. Especially if, due to an incorrectly installed socket, gaps appear between the protective frame and the wall. The height of the outlet is chosen arbitrarily in the range of 30 - 60 cm from the floor line. This parameter does not have any limits: i.e. We mount it as it will be convenient for us to use.

It was not in vain that we started talking about entering the cable into the socket. Under it, after all, it will be necessary to hammer a fine, which also applies to labor-intensive and dusty activities. The cable is worth the money. Then it is necessary to seal the furrow with plaster, alabaster or cement mortar. Again costs. So, in the name of reducing costs, you need to figure out in advance how to rationally arrange the field line, and then:

• draw on the wall the shortest trajectory for the future movement of the electrodes and determine on it the optimal point for mounting the box;
• draw a horizontal with a vertical through the selected point, controlling our own intuition with a level gauge, square and plumb line;
• from the center of their intersection, we set aside segments equal to the outer radius of the socket;
• we will attach this installation box to the wall, turning it to our rear;
• Let's match the indicated points with the edges of the box and draw its outline on the hay.

Well prepared. Now you can begin to form the furrows and the main hole.

"Drilling and crushing" process

You can drill a concrete wall with a grinder. But it is much more useful to stock up on a perforator with a diamond crown used to form wide holes. We drew a kind of carbine sight on the wall for a reason. The central point of the picture is needed for the correct hit in the designated place of the drill of the annular crown. The drill will drill into the thickness of the wall first and direct the crown in the right direction. Let's not forget about the drilling depth limiter. It will automatically terminate the tool when it reaches its intended target. We calculate the depth by adding 1.5 cm to the height of the socket to apply an adhesive solution to the bottom of the hole.

The sequence of drilling holes for the installation box:

• we wet a section of the wall if our bit is not intended for dry drilling of concrete structures;
• we will equip the perforator with the drill we have;
• set the drill to the designated point;
• adhering to the “rotation with impact” mode, we will first make a couple of trial inclusions;
• we drill the wall until the tool stops.

In the absence of a puncher, you can use an impact drill, and to make several narrow holes nearby and refine the recess to the desired size with a chisel. In general, you can only “hole” a wall with a chisel, but this is dreary and too long.

Direct installation of the junction box

• Let's try the installation box to the formed hole. Don't let the depth scare you. Plaster, cement mortar, or alabaster will help align everything with the wall. Construction alabaster hardens too quickly for the inexperienced hands of a home craftsman. It is better to fix the box in the hole with plaster.
• After making sure of the successful completion of the work with the hole for the socket box, we will bring a stroke to it along the drawn trajectory. Here it is better to cut it with a grinder and finish it off with a chisel.
• We will break out the hatch in its sidewall, indicated by the manufacturer of the box. Through the resulting hole, then stretch the cable.
• We clean the drilled hole from cement dust and treat it with a primer.
• We apply plaster into the hole without ostentatious generosity.
• We insert the socket box into the hole so that the broken hatch for the cable insertion is opposite the shtraba. We press down the box until it is flush with the “injured” wall.
• After 7-10 minutes, remove the excess plaster and level the surface with a spatula.
• We are waiting for a couple of hours for the plaster to harden, then we bring the wiring to the box.
• Let's lay the cable along the groove intended for it, calculating that about 20 cm it needs to be brought into the socket.
• We use alabaster for temporary fixation of the cable in the stub, because it sets quickly. We apply alabaster patches every half a meter.
• Stepping back about 5 cm from the outline of the hole for the box, we fix the cable with a plastic bracket for reliability.

At the end, we introduce the power line into the hatch of the socket box and ... peacefully rub our hands, because the installation of the box is completed.

We mount the sockets for the socket loop in the same way. Only we drill a large hole, having previously drawn all the contours of the boxes on the wall. For two sockets arranged in a row, a wonderful alternative is being sold - a box for "two seats".

The process of installing a socket in a hollow wall

Hidden electrical wiring is laid not only in monolithic walls, but also in hollow partitions made of drywall or other sheet material. For installation, then use socket boxes with spacer legs, which ensure perfect fixation of the box in a hollow wall.

Drilling wide holes will now require a drywall bit. You can put it not on a puncher, but simply on a drill. It is not necessary to cut the strobes at all, the cable will lie freely between the sheets attached to the metal frame.

We act according to the following scheme:

• In the box, by analogy with the above method, we break out the hatch.
• We insert the socket into the formed hole and insert the cable through the hatch.
• We twist the two mounting screws that tighten the tabs of the box. They will rest against the material of the wall from the back. We tighten the screws immediately not completely, tighten them one by one. First, we twist one of them a little, then the second, so that there are no distortions due to material deformation.

Installation of boxes for soldering units and switches in plasterboard walls is done in the same way.

Additional video instruction

Having admired enough of the result of your work, you can start connecting the outlet mechanism. It can be fixed in the socket box either by means of sliding legs, or with simple screws, for screwing which there are threaded holes on the walls of the box. For inexperienced home electricians, it is better to use screws, because. fixation with paws is not very reliable and can disappoint with azimuthal skew. So, we will attach it with screws, close it with a decorative cover on top and we will be happy to use the electric point installed on our own.