It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it is necessary to carry out them at a high altitude. The design will help you safely climb the elevation, do everything you need to do, put nearby materials that will help you in your business. It is inconvenient to rent construction loess from a profile pipe, as it will constantly draw funds, which some may not like. Alternatively, the loess can be made by hand. They will be made as convenient for the owner, provide the ability to climb to the desired height.

Types of loess

There are several types of loess that you can do yourself. Metal pipes are suitable for manufacturing; you can add boards to the structure. If you make everything from wood, it will be much cheaper than metal. But such installations will not be able to withstand a significant load, there is a possibility of breakage with a large weight installed on them.

In time, the metal frame will take longer, but gradually the costs of its manufacture will be covered by a reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled, rebuilt. In addition to wood, there are other types of loess:

1. Clamp. Priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. It is problematic to assemble such products, but there is an option to bend them as required.

2. Wedge. A considerable mass can be stacked on them.

3. Pin headers. It is enough to simply assemble and disassemble them. They are suitable for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.

4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness, ease of assembly. They can be collected very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg for each meter of the base surface. In construction, they are used most often, because it is not difficult to make them with your own hands.

Important:DIY construction loess from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended to stand on them together.

Loess making

Making a loess from pipes is not difficult at all. To do this, you need to select the required elements, connect them in the correct sequence. To speed up the work, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and combine them into one structure.

Materials for making loess

To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made of planks. Can be made of aluminum, but less stress will be obtained. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm; it is most convenient to make about a meter in width. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.

Before starting the assembly of the structure, it is necessary to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:

1. Profiles 1.5 m long and 3x3 cm in cross section. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
2. Pipes 15 mm in diameter, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
3. Profile for connecting elements. Section 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
4. Ladder. You can insert a ready-made one, but if not, you can also execute it from a profile.
5. Bolts, nuts and washers that will hold each element in place. Self-tapping screws to connect wooden parts.

For work, you will need to use a drill, grinder or hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making threads in the required elements. The ground at the installation site must be well compacted so that there are no distortions during the manufacturing process. If the work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The earth under the loess will be strong, there will be no danger to people at the height.

It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of parts leads to a strong tilt of the elements higher and the construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably, efficiently.

Loess collection

The construction loess is assembled in the following order:

1. First, you need to cut the workpieces: the diagonal parts holding the structure together, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.

2. 2 vertical uprights are connected with spacers. They should be located strictly horizontally.

3. The horizontal parts are connected with ties, at a distance of about 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.

4. The connecting parts are secured.

5. Bolt holes must be drilled on the supports.

6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. The diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.

It makes sense to paint the scaffolds to make them last longer. If the structure is planned to be often disassembled and assembled, you can connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of profile 2.5x2.5 cm is inserted into them and the elements are welded.

Many people wonder whether it is worth doing scaffolding on their own. On the one hand, this design is bulky, you have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can simply disassemble the parts, but it takes a long time. Wooden loess is connected only with nails, not self-tapping screws. The boards will be intact after work, they can be used for other needs.

On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height is at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.

This is a truly versatile building structure designed for work at heights. The main difference between the scaffold tower and other forests is its high mobility and rather compact dimensions. All this allows not only to work at high heights, but also to move it from one workplace to another in a short time. Sometimes a tour tower is almost irreplaceable, but what if there is no opportunity to buy it at the moment? In this case, there is only one way out, to make it yourself.

What materials will be needed to make a tour tower?

Homemade tour can be made in two versions: collapsible and non-collapsible. The collapsible version is better both in terms of transportation and storage. After all, it is much easier to disassemble the tour and bring it into the room when it is not needed, and then reassemble it when it is needed, than to store it on the street. To make a collapsible tower, you will need the following materials:

Profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - from this pipe, the stands for the tower will subsequently be made;

Ordinary pipe with a diameter of 15mm - this pipe will act as oblique couplers for the tower, which will give it higher strength and reliability;

Profile pipe with a diameter of 25 mm - this pipe will need very little and all of it will be used to create jumpers;

Wheels for tower tours - in fact, they will give the tour high mobility;

How to start making a tower?

The first step is to cut a 15mm pipe into 2m sections, the number of these sections will depend on the number of derrick sections being erected. One section will take 4 such segments. Then these segments need to be flattened at the ends, this is necessary so that it is more convenient to attach them to the tower. In order for them to crumple better, you can make small longitudinal cuts.

The next step is to make stands for the tower, for this you need to cut a 30mm profile pipe into lengths of 1.5m and 0.74m. Cuts 1.5m long (2 per rack) will be the legs of the rack, and 0.74m long (4 per rack) will be steps. Then all this must be welded into a single structure so that the distance between the steps does not exceed 30 cm. Also at this stage, the wheels should be welded to the struts.

The next step will be the manufacture of jumpers for the tower, for this we cut a profiled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm into segments of 20-25 cm, as well as a profiled pipe with a diameter of 30 mm into pieces of 4-6 cm. Then we thread 25mm pieces of 30mm approximately to the middle and fasten them with welding. The final touch before assembling the tower is to drill a hole for the anchor bolt, which will hold the tie rods and posts together.

It is also worth noting that a self-made tour tower is a rather bad alternative to a factory one. It is heavier and less durable and reliable. Self-made towers do not allow working at significant heights and it is rather a temporary short-lived means on which you can work only at your own peril and risk. Therefore, if possible, it is still worth buying a factory-made tour, since they are already not as expensive as before.

Tower of the tour, description of the device.

The mobile tower is a spatial tower-type structure made of flat frames with three steps.

Parallel frames fit into the dumbbell sleeves and form a section. To ensure the rigidity of the structure itself, the sections are interconnected with ties, which are attached to the locks of the dumbbells. The lower sections are installed on two bases, which are interconnected by a volumetric diagonal.

The bases have four screw supports and four wheels. The wheels are used to move the tower. The screw feet compensate for unevenness in the bearing surface. The tower with the help of screw supports must be installed so that the wheels do not touch the supporting surface by 2 mm.

The tower has a set of decks, which consists of two types - solid and with a hatch.

To ensure stability, the tower can be equipped with stabilizers, which are fastened with clamps to the main structure of the tower.

Safety measures during operation.

The tower must be installed strictly vertically using screw supports. The platform deck must have a level surface.

The tower can be equipped with stabilizers for maximum stability. If there is a danger of overturning by wind load or other factors, the tower must be reinforced to the building with guy wires as close as possible to the upper tier. It is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP Sh-4-80 "Safety in construction" and GOST 24258-88.

Tour tower assembly instructions.

Option 1.

1. Drawing of the frame (a flag lock is shown on the leader). 2. Drawing of the fence frame.

3. Drawing of the horizontal connection. 4. Drawing of a diagonal connection.

5. Drawing of the base (main dimensions).

6. Drawing of the flooring with a hatch. and 7. Drawing of flooring without hatch.

8. Drawing of the stabilizer support.

9. Drawing of the anchor plug and bracket (supplied in the kit starting from a height of 14 meters).

Option 2.

When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore one cannot do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution is to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you do not have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They are made of wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Scaffolding design and types

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

• support posts;
• stairs;
• decks and lintels for him;
• enclosing railings;
• stops;
• horizontal and diagonal braces.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together with nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and re-assembly will be less durable, since holes from the nails remain in the beams. Scaffolding made of metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.

Wedge forests

There are 4 main types of scaffolding depending on the fastening methods.

Table. Types of forests

Types of forests	Description
frame	metal structures made of vertical frames, fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffolds are lightweight and easy to install.
wedge	very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders
pin	rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but are too expensive and put a lot of pressure on the ground
yoke	they are versatile scaffolding, perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite laborious, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically

How to collect wood scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring is at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding is a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.

To work you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick;
• boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
• nails;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• Circular Saw.

The wood must be firm and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier, moreover, it can deform after drying. Since the scaffolding is required only for the construction or decoration of the house, it is not necessary to treat them with antiseptic compounds and do not need to sand.

Step 1. Making the frame

4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and placed on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m and 2 beams of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4-meter ones - along the bottom. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.

Step 2. Assembling the frame

The frames are raised, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with the sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m.Check the location of the sidewalls horizontally with the building level, and if everything is correct, they firmly knock down the frame with nails. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls from a bar.

Step 3. Installation of the flooring

The floorboards must be nailed to the upper cross-bars. It is best to fill them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional cross-members are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.

Prices for various types of building boards

Construction boards

Assembling metal scaffolding

In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.

For work you will need:

Step 1. Preparing the spacers

Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal ones is 96 cm, the diagonal ones are 2 m. After that, 6 cm long cuts are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the studs.

Step 2. Making adapters

To build up the scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: pipes 25x25 mm are cut into pieces with a length of 30 cm, and workpieces with a length of 8 cm are cut from pipes 30x30 mm. Short workpieces are put on long ones and welded in the middle to eliminate shifts.

Step 3. Assembling the frame

Two vertical struts are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The resulting frame is in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates of 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.

Step 4. Section installation

Two frames are installed vertically opposite one another and diagonal struts are tried on. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all parts to each other and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with the level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to resist on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the flooring

Decking boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, reinforced from below with transverse bars from deflection.

To prevent the flooring from moving during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark a line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markings are made from the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it to the boards with self-tapping screws on the marked lines. Now, when the deck is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will prevent the boards from sliding.

Step 5. Painting the forests

Metal scaffolds are designed for reusable use, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame is covered with corrosion from dampness, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolds, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring is also treated and painted to protect it from moisture and decay.

Prices for poles, shaped pipes

Poles, shaped pipes

Video - DIY scaffolding