The tree is widely used in various areas of human household activities. Wooden structures are especially widely used in construction. However, any wooden structures consist of separate parts that must be connected together in one way or another.

There are several types of connections. But you need to learn one rule: before starting work, you need to carefully mark out future cuts and always follow the markup. In the finished product, the parts must fit exactly and tightly.

Ways of joining boards and small bars: 1 - "end-to-end" (end-to-end); 2 - "in the groove and the comb"; 3 - "on the mustache"; 4, 6 - "jagged" glue; 5 - "half-tree"; 7 - "on the rail"; 8 - overhead "direct lock"; 9 - "oblique lock" overhead; 10 - "straight" and "oblique" tension locks.

The simplest and relatively fragile is the butt joint. For this connection, the ends of the parts to be fastened are made clearly rectangular, and the ends are processed with a plane.

A mustache joint is similar to a butt joint, but here the ends of the parts are chamfered at a 45 ° angle. For accurate marking, a device called a yarunok is used. Such a connection is reinforced with a plywood plate or a metal square. Reinforce the mustache connection with inside square or triangular bar.

More durable connections include connections "in the patch" by making cuts. If the parts to be joined are of the same thickness, then the cuts are made on both parts by half their thickness. In the case when one part is thicker than the other, the cut is made only in a thicker part. To increase the strength, the parts are glued together and additionally fastened wooden dowels or screws.

If it is necessary to obtain a T-shaped connection, use a "half-tree" overlay. In this case, both parts are cut off if they are of the same thickness, or a thicker part is cut with different thicknesses of the elements being fastened.

The strongest joints that have come down to the present time from ancient times are joints with through thorns, on two insertable round thorns and by the method of median knitting with a single thorn. Parts connected by a straight through thorn are additionally fastened with pins and glued. To make a connection on two round plug-in tenons, a template plate made of plywood or thick cardboard is used to accurately drill the holes for the tenons. Median knitting with a single thorn is deaf, if you need to hide the end of the thorn on the front side, and through, which is much stronger than deaf.

For box connections apply spike joints with straight and oblique (" dovetail") With thorns. Despite the higher labor intensity, the connection with oblique pins is more durable and reliable.

For reliability, all joints can be reinforced with pins, gluing, nails, screws, bolts and a combination of these methods of strengthening joints.

The dowel is made in the form of a wooden rod with slightly sharpened ends from hard rocks wood. If the product will subsequently be painted or varnished, then the outer end of the dowel is recessed and putty or a blind hole is drilled for the dowel.

Before gluing, the parts are thoroughly dried, the surface is cleaned of dirt, grease and oil stains, dust and roughened with a rasp for better adhesion. Moreover, parts made of hard wood are glued with a more liquid composition, and soft wood- thicker because it absorbs moisture much better. The surfaces to be glued must be thoroughly coated with glue, which will significantly increase the strength of the connection. The glue layer should not be too thick or too thin. This will significantly degrade the quality of the connection. The glue is applied in a uniform, dense layer without breaks. For reliable adhesion, the product must be kept for at least a day before being further processed.

For gluing, use carpentry or casein glue... Joiner's glue is not waterproof and high humidity finished products may come unstuck. Therefore, it is recommended to use casein glue, devoid of this disadvantage. In addition, casein glue is somewhat cheaper, and slightly surpasses carpentry in adhesion strength.

To achieve special strength of the joints wooden structures strengthen with nails, screws and bolts. The length of the nail or screw is selected 3 to 5 mm shorter than the total thickness of the parts to be joined, and when connecting parts of different thicknesses, the length of the fastening hardware should be 2 to 4 times the thickness of the thinnest part.

It should be borne in mind that screws and nails, screwed in or driven across the grain, hold the parts better.

The part of the bolt that extends beyond the connected parts should be slightly larger than the thickness of the nut. Washers are placed under the bolt heads to protect the wood from crushing. The splines of the screw heads are parallel to the wood fibers. It is advisable to place the slots of all screws on the same straight line or parallel to each other. Before screwing in thin screws or hammering in thin nails, it is recommended to make signal holes with a smaller diameter.

The most durable joints are considered to be screws. Care must be taken to avoid splitting the tree. For this purpose, do not drive in and screw in screws and nails close to the edge and to each other.

The coolest joiners and carpenters are said to be able to build a house without single nail... Japanese artisans, even amateurs, are just that.

A few years ago, a young and passionate automotive industry worker came across a book describing traditional Japanese woodworking techniques. He was very fascinated by the descriptions of the connections of parts without the use of nails, screws and glue. He wanted to learn how to do the same. But there were no diagrams for making fasteners in the book. Then the guy decided to draw them himself.

He used the free service Fusion-360 to model and animate the parts. The Japanese translated the resulting result into GIFs and posted it on a Twitter account called The joinery... In almost a year, the young carpenter visualized 85 different ways detachable connections.

The variety of mounts is truly amazing. With their help, you can make basically anything - a stool, a sofa, a table, and so on. The main thing is to have straight arms and a good, preferably electric tool.

But even if the manual labor does not inspire you at all, you will probably enjoy watching GIFs. The grace with which the details mesh with each other is mesmerizing.

Making furniture with your own hands is gaining more and more popularity due to the high cost finished products and thanks to a large number source materials that have appeared in the public domain. At home, with a minimum set of appropriate tools, it is possible to assemble viable furniture that will function properly and delight you with its appearance. One of the most popular connection methods is gluing, which allows you to get strong, monolithic parts. Gluing can be used as an independent fastener or as a duplicate, when using external elements such as pins, dowels or self-tapping screws.

DIY glued wood

Before gluing, the parts are processed, this is done not only to clean the surface, but also allows you to open wood pores. When applied, the glue composition penetrates through the pores into the structure of the wood, into the intercellular space, and when solidified, forms a multitude of thinnest threads (cobwebs) that reliably "stitch" the workpiece together. The strength of a properly made seam exceeds the strength of the wood itself; when testing for fracture, the part breaks not at the gluing point, but along the solid wood.

Gluing wood allows you to get products with better parameters than massive ones. In the process of gluing, elements that are suitable in texture and shades are selected, damaged, cracked and knotty areas are rejected. As a result, the glued parts have greater strength than ordinary ones, and by gluing the thinnest veneer to the front surfaces, the products are given the appearance most valuable breeds... The wood glued according to all the rules warps, cracks and crumbles much less than the solid wood.

How to glue wood. Technology

There are several ways to join parts when gluing.

• Gluing wood onto a smooth joint - joining smooth parts without increasing the penetration area.

• Gluing on a microthorn - increasing the penetration area by 2.5 - 5 mm due to the creation of a toothed relief on the part (using a router).

• Gluing on a toothed spike - Increases the penetration area by 10 mm by creating a toothed spike.

• Gluing on tongue-and-groove (tongue and groove, dovetail, oblique tenon) - additional grip due to the groove connection.

Although in certain situations when it is assumed special conditions applications, groove and finger joints are relevant, in most cases the parts are glued onto a smooth joint. Modern adhesives penetrate deep into the structure and create a strong seam without additional sampling of wood.

How to glue boards together. Options

The wood to be glued must have a moisture content in the range of 8 - 12%, maximum - 18%. If there is a need to glue wet parts, use special composition, in the process of hardening, it draws moisture from the wood. When gluing blanks with different moisture content, a drop of more than 2% is not allowed in order to avoid internal stress in the glue joint due to deformation of a wetter part. The temperature of the workpieces to be glued ranges from 15 to 20 ° C, therefore the work is carried out in warm rooms(18 - 22⁰С). In the cold, most compounds crystallize, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of the gluing and complicates the process.

The final preparation of the wood (planing, jointing, sanding) is carried out immediately before gluing in order to increase the permeability of the glue and avoid warping. It is important not only to select parts in terms of size, structure and external data, but also to arrange them correctly.

• When gluing along the length, strips of only one type of sawing are used - tangential or radial;
• When gluing both in length and in width, alternation is not allowed different parts wood - the kernel fits with the kernel, sapwood (young, extreme part) with sapwood;
• Annual rings of adjacent blanks from boards or bars should be directed to different sides or at an angle to each other from 15⁰.

The standard thickness of furniture boards is 2 cm, but to glue wooden boards at home, when choosing boards for the shield, the presumptive processing waste is taken into account, therefore the workpiece is selected with a thickness of up to 2.5 cm.The excess is removed during the initial processing, when eliminating defects, and after gluing, when grinding the shield. If you dissolve for furniture board a board 5 cm thick, two blanks are obtained with the same texture and shade, which increases the decorative effect of the product. For boards, boards of wood of the same species are selected, up to 120 mm wide, so that it is possible to process the edges of the board with high quality, the length of the blanks must have a margin (2 - 5 cm).

Adhesives

The adhesives used for the manufacture of laminated timber are divided into two main groups.

Synthetic - obtained on the basis of resins or polyvinyl acetate dispersions (PVA). They are characterized by increased strength of the resulting compound, moisture resistance, and biostability. The disadvantages include the presence harmful substances that can stand out in environment in the process of work and further operation. This "famous" compositions based on phenol-formaldehyde resins. Modern PVA dispersions and their derivatives are non-toxic and commonly used in the domestic sphere and are considered universal for wood. Most of the synthetic mixtures are ready-to-use. The epoxy glue needs to be fine-tuned; to work with it, the supplied hardener is mixed with epoxy resin.

Natural mixtures - animal, vegetable, mineral. They are safe, give a strong connection, but are available in the form of semi-finished products that are prepared before use. How to glue wood with them: when preparing, you must strictly follow the instructions and observe the dosages, otherwise the quality of the glue will not allow you to get a strong connection. To prepare the glue, it is usually required to dilute the powder concentrate with water to the desired consistency (it may take a certain period for swelling) or to melt the solid particles. Direct exposure to fire is not allowed, applies " water bath", On which the mass with the addition of water after swelling melts to a homogeneous consistency.

How to glue wood

When gluing wooden surfaces glue is applied to both parts in an even layer. The thickness of the layer depends on the type of glue, its consistency and the type of surfaces to be glued - the thinner the wood, the thinner layer... The glue should wet the part, but not excessively; an even bead should stand out when connecting the elements. Sticky streaks are removed from the surface as soon as they set a little, with a scraper or trowel. Cured excess glue spoils appearance parts and complicates their further processing.

How to glue a wooden blank.

After applying the glue, the parts withstand a certain period of time, this allows the composition to penetrate deeper, at the same time excess moisture evaporates, the concentration of adhesives increases. During exposure, the seam must not be ventilated in a draft or dusty. Some types of natural glue (bone, flesh) must be applied hot, instantly fastening the parts without curing, since the composition loses its properties as it cools.

Wood gluing tool

To obtain the most durable connection, when gluing, the wood is pressed in - it is compressed by means of special presses. At home, for these purposes, they use improvised tools and means - a vice, clamps, cam devices, frames made of metal corner with clamping mechanisms. The pressure during wood pressing is maintained in the range from 0.2 to 1.2 MPa. In production, large values ​​are possible, at home there are enough indicators for the details of the structure to stick together.

DIY glued wood.

Subject to the gluing technology, the glue seam turns out to be strong and reliable, and, unlike the method of joining parts with metal fasteners, it does not spoil the appearance.

For those who like to create household items on their own, FORUMHOUSE has an open topic. How to organize a comfortable corner for working with wood, you can find out in the article. The video about wooden elements in a country house shows interesting products made by portal users.

If you take a closer look at massive antique furniture or doors, you will notice a beautiful and uniform texture: the product seems to be carved from one large piece of wood. Only on closer examination can we single out individual planks, which make up the common surface.

Previously, furniture was not made, as is done today, from thick boards. The carpenters were just more skilled. From many thin planks, they could make a large panel with perfect smooth surface... Although the tree is known to live its contented stormy life, even when it is no longer connected by its roots to the ground. It is exposed to temperature and humidity, as well as mechanical stress, as a result of which it can unexpectedly show its "character".

The technique of joining the planks so that they remain even and smooth for a long time is called butt joining along the length.

It is necessary to carefully examine each plank and compare its texture with the texture of the adjacent parts: the wood fibers of each part should run in the opposite direction compared to the fibers of the adjacent planks. So one board "locks" the other.

The nature of the texture depends on whether the board is cut from the middle or extreme part of the trunk. Boards can be laid out in different ways: in one case, so that the surface will seem to be a cut from one trunk, in the other, by mixing the boards, create an unusual pattern.

But in any case, when fitting, the boards should be positioned against each other so that a wavy pattern is obtained. Therefore, it is very difficult to achieve the effect of a “whole tree” and at the same time “lock” the tree. After all, one can see alternately the front (facing the core of the tree), then the seamy (facing the bark) side of the boards.

In order for the boards to fit snugly against each other along the length, the edges must be absolutely straight. You need to vertically fix the board between two guide boards and treat the surface with a plane. Process the wood immediately, without delay - if the air humidity changes, it may deform again.

The table top, assembled from boards, used to be judged on the skill of the carpenter. The ability to join boards end-to-end lengthwise can still be useful today. We will show and tell you how this is done.

Marking and gluing

How to correctly connect the boards along the length with an insert strip

The plank reinforces the joint along the entire length, while performing two functions: it doubles the area of ​​the joint areas covered with glue, since it penetrates into both boards, which gives the joint additional strength, and due to the opposite direction of the fibers in the plank in relation to the fibers in the main parts the connection is more resistant to stress.

Use of plywood

For a bar that must be very thin, the most suitable material- plywood. If, for example, you take a solid wood plank, then the arrangement of the fibers in the plank and planks will be parallel. In this case, a high joint strength will be achieved, but the bar itself will not withstand the load and will break if the boards begin to bend. A bar with crosswise grain direction can be used. It withstands well the load during bending of the boards and gives great strength to the joint, but such strips are limited in length and are extremely unreliable under longitudinal loads. Multi-ply plywood compensates for the imperfections of the solid wood planks, providing a strong connection.

An alternative to the rail is plug-in spikes, which are placed with a glue fit at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. First, a hole for the thorns is drilled in one board, then the location of the thorns on the other board is marked with special markers.

The left bar is longer, the middle one is thicker than necessary, the right one is done correctly. It should be shorter total height grooves so that there is room for the glue.

Blind connection using plywood planks. The plank is completely hidden, and the boards at the ends remain intact.

To connect wooden parts a myriad of connections can be used. The names and classification of joinery and carpentry joints tend to vary significantly depending on the country, region, and even school of woodworking. Craftsmanship lies in precision execution to provide a properly functioning joint that is capable of withstanding its intended loads.

Initial information

Connection categories

All connections (in carpentry they are called knitting) of wooden parts according to the field of application can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):

• box;
• frame (frame);
• for rallying / splicing.

Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture of drawers and the device of cabinets, frame are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing serves to obtain parts of an increased width / length of the size.

Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.

Material preparation

Even planed lumber may need some preparation.

• Trim the material to allow for width and thickness for further planing. Do not cut the length yet.
• Choose the best quality face - the front side. Plan the entire length. Check with a straight edge.
  After final alignment, mark the front side with a pencil.
• Plan the front - clean - edge. Check with a straight edge and a square against the front. Align the warpedness by planing. Mark the clean edge.
• Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part outline. Reduce the risks to this. Check with a straight edge.
• Repeat the operation for the width.
• Now mark the length and the actual connections. Mark from the front and clean edges.

Lumber marking

Be careful when marking lumber. Make adequate allowances for kerf, planing thickness and joining.

Take all readings from the front side and the clean edge, on which you put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve precision. To facilitate sorting and assembly, number the parts on the front side when they are manufactured, so that, for example, it indicates that side 1 is connected to end 1.

When marking the same parts, carefully align them and mark all the workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking the frame elements, keep in mind that there may be "right" and "left" details.

Butt joints

These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry connections... They can be in all three categories of compounds.

Assembly

The butt joint can be reinforced with nails driven at an angle. Drive in nails at random.

Cut the ends of the two pieces exactly and join them together. Secure with nails or screws. Before that, you can apply glue to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a wavy key on the outside or a wooden bar fixed from the inside.

Naggelny / dowel connections

Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to reinforce the connection. These insertion round studs increase shear (shear) strength and use glue to secure the assembly more securely. Connections with dowels (dowels) can be used as frame connections (furniture), drawer connections (cabinets) or for rallying / splice (panels).

Assembly of the dowel joint

1. Carefully cut out all the components to the exact dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the rack.

2. Mark center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end should be at least half the thickness of the material. More than two dowels may be required for a wide bar.

Mark the center lines for the dowels on the end of the crossbar and place them on the rack using a square.

3. Lay the stand and crossbar face up. Using a square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and mark all connections if there are more than one pair of posts and rungs.

4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.

5. From the front with a thicknesser, draw a line across the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the pins.

Using a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the holes for the dowels.

6. An electric drill with a twist drill or hand drill with a feather drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should have a depth of about 2.5 times the diameter of the pin, and the hole in the end should have a depth of about 3 times the diameter. For each hole, make a 2 mm allowance, for this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.

7. Use a countersink to remove excess fibers from the top of the holes. This will also make it easier to install the pin and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.

Nageli

The dowel should have longitudinal groove(now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs), along which excess glue will be removed when assembling the connection. If the dowel does not have a groove, then shave it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage from the pins to the hole. And here, if the pins do not have a chamfer, file it or grind the edges of their ends.

Using centrics for marking dowels

Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the holes for the dowels. Align the crossbar with the stand markings and squeeze the parts together. The center points will mark the post. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template from a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for the pins through the holes in it.

Using a jig for a pin connection

The metal jig for the dowel joints makes it much easier to mark and drill holes for the dowels. In box connections, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.

conductor for naggel joints

1. Mark center lines on the face of the material where you want the stud holes to be. Select a suitable drill guide and insert it into the jig.

2. Align the centering marks on the side of the jig and fix the movable support of the guide bush.

3. Install the jig onto the part. Align the centering notch with the centerline of the dowel hole. Tighten.

4. Place the drilling depth stop on the drill at the desired location.

Rallying

To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Fold the two planks with their wide sides together, line up the ends precisely, and hold the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines to indicate the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, use a thickness gauge to score marks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the pin holes.

The hard connection is neat and durable.

Punch-in / punch-in connections

A cut-in, cut-in or groove connection is called corner or mid-joint, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.

Cutting / tapping connection types

The main types of notch joints are the dark / semi-dark tee (this term is often replaced by the term “flush / half-flush”), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger. corner cut(corner joint) in a quarter and corner cut in dark / semi-dark. The corner cut into the seam and the corner cut into the seam with darkening / semi-darkening are made in the same way, but the fold is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.

Cutting

1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue lines to both edges.

2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste material.

3. Use the C-clamp to secure the part securely. Saw through the shoulders on the backside of the scribe lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the back to make it easier to cut the material with the chisel.

Saw in the runway to the scoring line on the retract side, making intermediate cuts with a wide notch.

4. Using a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the bottom for flatness. To level the bottom, you can use a soil tube.

Use a chisel to remove the waste by working on both sides and flatten the bottom of the groove.

5. Check fit, if the part is too tight, you may need to trim it. Check for squareness.

6. The cut connection can be reinforced with one of the following ways or their combination:

• gluing and clamping until the glue sets;
• screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
• nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
• nailing obliquely across the corner.

The cut connection is strong enough

Groove and side flange connections

It is a combination of quarter cut and rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the device of the slopes of window openings.

Making a connection

1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and the front side.

2. Mark the second shoulder on the end side, it should be one third of the material thickness. Continue to both edges.

3. Using a thickness gauge, mark the groove depth (one third of the material thickness) at the edges between the shoulder lines.

4. Use a backed hacksaw to cut through the shoulders to the notches of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check alignment.

5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark a line on the back and on the edges of the second part.

Advice:

• Groove and side flange connections can be made easily with a router and an appropriate guide - either for the groove only, or for both the groove and rebate. Recommendations for correct work with a router see p. 35.
• If the comb fits too tightly into the groove, trim the face (smooth) side of the comb or sand with a sandpaper.

6. From the front side, use a thickness gauge to mark the edges towards the end and at the end itself. Saw along the lines of the planer with a backed hacksaw. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the joint.

7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and correct if necessary.

Half-wood connections

Half-wood joints refer to frame joints that are used to join parts with faces or along an edge. The connection is made by sampling the same amount of material from each part, so that they are connected flush with each other.

Half-tree connection types

There are six main types of half-wood joints: transverse, angular, dark, angular, dovetail, and splice.

Making a corner joint in half a tree

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the upper side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end by the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.

2. Set the thickness gauge to half the thickness of the pieces and draw a line at the ends and edges of both pieces. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.

3. Clamp the part in a vice at a 45 ° angle (face up). Saw carefully along the grain, close to the thicknessing line on the retract side, until the saw is diagonal. Turn the piece over and continue cutting gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw comes out on the shoulder line on both edges.

4. Remove the part from the vise and lay it down. Press it firmly against the tsulag and clamp it with a clamp.

5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all unevenness of the sample with a chisel. Check the cut is neat.

6. Repeat the process for the second part.

7. Check fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlash.

8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

Mustache corner joints

Corner bevels are made by beveling the ends and hide the end fiber, as well as aesthetically more consistent with the angular rotation of the decorative strip.

Types of corner joints

To bevel the ends in corner connection on the mustache, the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In the traditional joint, this angle is 90 °, so each end is cut at 45 °, but the angle can be both obtuse and sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.

Making a corner connection with a mustache

1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured along the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.

2. Having decided on the length, mark a line at 45 ° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.

3. Using the combination square, transfer the marking to all sides of the part.

4. When hand cut use a miter box and a hacksaw with a backing or hand miter saw... Press the part firmly against back side miter box - if it moves, then the bevel will turn out to be uneven, and the connection will not fit well. If you are simply sawing by hand, follow the process so as not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.

5. Place two pieces together and check fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a plane. Fix the part firmly and work with a sharp plane with a small overhang of the knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first put the parts on the face and hammer nails into the outside of the bevel so that their tips barely appear from the bevels.

Place nails in both parts so that the tips stick out slightly from the bevel surface.

7. Apply glue and firmly squeeze the joint so that one part protrudes slightly - overlapping the other. Drive nails into the protruding part first. Under the blows of the hammer, when the nails are driven in, the part will move slightly. The surfaces should be leveled. Nail in the other side of the joint and sink in the nail heads. Check the squareness.

Drive nails into the protruding part first and the hammer will push the joint into position.

8. If, due to the unevenness of the design, a small gap is obtained, iron the joint on both sides with a round screwdriver shaft. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then either you will have to redo the connection, or seal the gap with putty.

9. To strengthen the corner connection, you can glue it on the inside of the corner. wooden block if you can't see it. If appearance is important, then the connection can be made on a plug-in dowel or secured with veneer dowels. Inside flat connections, pins or lamellas (standard flat dowels) can be used.

Mustache splices and cut join

A mustache splice connects the ends of parts located on one straight line, and a cut-off connection is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Splicing on a mustache

When splicing on a mustache, the parts are connected with the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Cut-off connection

The connection with a cut (with undercut, with a fit) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during the fastening process, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a gusset connection.

1. Fasten the first skirting board in place. Slide the second skirting board along the wall to it.

Secure the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it along the wall.

2. Draw a small piece of wood with a pencil pressed against the profile surface of the fixed plinth. The pencil will leave a marking line on the skirting board to be marked.

With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, with a tip attached to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the cut line.

3. Cut along the scribe line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Complex profiles

Place the first skirting board in place and, placing the second skirting board in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

Eyelet connections

Eyelet connections are used when you want to connect intersecting parts that are "On Edge", either in a corner or in the middle (for example, a corner of a window sash or where a table leg meets a bar).

Types of eyelet connections

The most common types of lug connections are angled and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.

Making a lug connection

1. Make the same lines as for, but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a thorn.

2. Cut along the grain to the shoulder line along the outgoing side scribing lines. Use a hacksaw with a backing to cut out the shoulders, and you get a thorn.

3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel / slot chisel or jigsaw.

4. Check fit and correct with a chisel if necessary. Apply glue to the joint surface. Check the squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive hardens.

Thorn-to-socket connection

Tenon-to-socket joints, or simply tenon joints, are used when two parts are joined at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the most durable frame joint in joinery and is used in the manufacture of doors, sashes and furniture.

Types of spike-to-socket connections

The two main types of tenon joints are the conventional tenon-to-socket and the step-to-socket (semi-dark) connection. The spike and socket are about two-thirds the width of the material. The expansion of the socket is done on one side of the groove (semi-dark), and a step of the thorn is inserted into it from its corresponding side. The semi-dark helps to prevent the spike from turning out of the nest.

Plain spike-to-socket connection

1. Determine the position of the joint on both parts and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the bar and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a slight allowance along the length for further stripping of the joint.

2. Select a chisel as close as possible to a third of the material thickness. Adjust the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the socket in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thicknessing solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it from both sides.

H. In the same way, mark the cleat on the end and both sides until the shoulders are marked on the bar.

4. Clamp the trim support support high enough in a vise to attach the ribbed post to it. Attach the stand to the support by placing the clamp next to the nest markings.

5. Use a chisel to cut a nest, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each end, so as not to damage the edges when cutting waste. Keep the chisel straight while keeping it parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, with the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the nest. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make several intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and beveling the sharpener down. Select a retreat by acting as a lever with the chisel. Deeper 5 mm, make more cuts and select a retreat. Continue to about half the thickness. Turn the piece over and work the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the bulk of the waste, strip the socket and cut the allowance left earlier to the scoring lines on each side.

8. Cut a spike along the grain by guiding the backed hacksaw along the line on the retreat side and cut out the shoulders.

9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit neatly to the post, the connection must be perpendicular and free of play.

10. For securing, wedges can be inserted on both sides of the cleat. A gap is made for this in the socket. Using the chisel from the outside of the socket, extend approximately two-thirds of the depth with a 1: 8 slope. Wedges are made with the same bias.

11. Apply glue and squeeze firmly. Check the squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and press them into place. Saw off the cleat allowance and remove excess glue.

Other spike connections

Stud joints for window sashes and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a rebate and / or an overlay for glass or infills (panels). When making a tenon-to-socket connection on a rebated part, make the plane of the tenon in line with the rebate edge. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (by the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter, so as not to block the fold.

Studded joints for parts with overlays have a shoulder that is cut to fit the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the mating piece.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:

• Side spike - when making doors.
• Concealed half-dark beveled thorn (with a beveled step) - to hide the thorn.
• With a thorn in the dark (thorn steps on both sides) - for relatively wide parts, such as the lower rail (bar) of the door.

All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the thorn will not be visible from back side racks. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.

Rallying

Wide, high quality timber is becoming more difficult to find and very expensive. Moreover, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To join narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for countertops or workbench covers, rallying is used.

Preparation

Before starting the direct rallying, you must do the following:

• Pick up boards if possible radial sawing... They are less prone to shrinkage than tangential sawn timber. If tangential sawing boards are used, place their core side alternately on one side and the other.
• Try not to rally materials with different ways sawing in one panel.
• Under no circumstances should boards from different types of wood be pulled together if they are not properly dried. They will shrink and crack differently.
• If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in the same direction.
• Be sure to cut the material to size before seaming.
• Use only good quality glue.
• If the wood will be polished, match texture or color.

Rallying for a smooth puffer

1. Place all boards face up. For easy reassembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at the seams at an angle.

2. Sew straight edges and check fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.

3. Make sure there are no gaps and flatness of the entire surface. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the joint will subsequently crack.

4. When slicing short pieces, clamp the two in a vice with the right sides together and plane both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the rectangularity of the edges, since when joining they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.

5. Prepare as for butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze and lapping connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to "stick" to each other, as it were.

Other ways of rallying

Other rallying joints with different reinforcement are prepared in the same way. These include:

• with dowels (dowels);
• in the groove and comb;
• in a quarter.

Bonding and clamping

Bonding and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.

Adhesives

The adhesive reinforces the connection by holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily separated. When handling adhesives, be sure to wear protective gloves and follow the safety recommendations on the packaging. Clean off excess glue before it sets, as it can blunt the planer knife and clog the abrasive skin.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. While still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly adheres to loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong connection and adheres to almost any porous surface... Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or on large surfaces, dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has water base, then shrinks when setting.

Contact adhesive

Contact adhesive glues immediately after application and joining of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, bond them together. It is used for laminated plastic (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. No fixation required. Cleaned off with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well-ventilated area to reduce the concentration of vapors. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy is the most durable and most expensive woodworking adhesives available. It is a two-part resin based adhesive that does not shrink when set and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Waterproof and adheres to almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass ( organic glass). Suitable for outdoor use. In an uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.

Hot glue

Hot melt adhesive will bond almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric gun for gluing. Apply glue, bond surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. No fixation required. It can be cleaned off with solvents.

Clamps for fixing

Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple are required. Be sure to place a spacer between the clip and the workpiece. wood waste to avoid denting from the applied pressure.

Bonding and fixing technique

Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product "dry" - without glue. Lock as necessary to check connections and dimensions... If everything is normal, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the jaws with the set jaws / stops at the desired distance.

Assembling the frame

Spread the glue evenly on all bonding surfaces with a brush and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure the assembly with clamps. Compress the joints with even pressure. The clamps should be perpendicular and parallel to the product surfaces.

Place the clamps as close to the joint as possible. Check the parallelism of the bars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a light but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust the clamps if necessary.

If the frame does not lie flat on flat surface, then tap the protruding areas with a mallet through the wooden block as a spacer. If this does not work, you may need to loosen the clamps or use the clamps to secure the block of wood across the frame.