Fastening with screws of any products, convenient and reliable way. However, almost everyone who has ever twisted or unscrewed a screw with round head or with a countersunk head from a wall, a board, faced with the problem of how to unscrew a screw if it had a broken cross for a screwdriver. Let's try to figure out how to make unscrewing more efficient.

Types and types of screws

Screws are cylindrical rods with a helical groove and a formed head. Hardware is manufactured according to GOST 1144-80, GOST 1145-80, GOST 10619-80, 10620-80, 10621-80, DIN, ISO.

Two main types of screws: self-tapping (“self-tapping”) and, in fact, the “classic” screw. When designating a hardware, its diameter and length are most often used (for example, 5x35 mm, self-tapping screws, length 35 mm, diameter 5 mm).

They are classified according to the design of the head and the design of the slot for a screwdriver.:

• Countersunk head (flat head screw);
• With a reduced secret;
• With hemispherical;
• With a press washer.

All of the above types can be manufactured with a slot, with a cross, with Torx slot(in everyday life - "asterisk"), an internal hexagon and a number of other less common ones. Combinations of splines are also possible (e.g. straight and cross).

Separately, self-tapping screws with a turnkey six, octagonal head (roofing screws) can be distinguished, they can also be made with various slots.

There are also screws with special heads (a ring screw, a hook screw, a hairpin screw, furniture screws (confirmations, although logically it would be more correct to call them furniture self-tapping screws), etc.

According to the type of threaded part, they are also divided into types, primarily determined by the scope and fastened materials (metal self-tapping screws, drywall screws, screws for small household appliances), in this article we will not dwell on this classification.

All hardware can be made both coated (chemically phosphated, galvanized) or without it.
Why does a flat head or hemispherical head screw break.

More precisely, the slot in his head breaks. There can be quite a few reasons for the breakdown of edges, we will analyze the main ones:

1. The use of low-quality, unsuitable size (type) or worn tools;
2. The application of insufficient (and as a result, the tool jumping out of the slot) or excessive force when screwing or unscrewing;
3. Using a self-tapping screw for other purposes (attempting to screw into the wrong material, without pre-drilling when required, etc.);
4. Corrosion in the product, both the head of the screw and the thread of the screw (the so-called "souring")
5. Incorrect screwing (“hammering”).

unscrewing

So, how to unscrew a universal screw with a countersunk head or a self-tapping screw with torn edges, or worse, without a hat at all.

The first thing to do is to inspect the tool with which the eversion is made and replace it with a suitable one. The tip of the tool must fit snugly into the slot and not be worn.

To remove a screw, the screwdriver must fully match the shape and size of the slot. If the replacement did not give anything, we use other methods. Self-tapping screws for drywall can most often be unscrewed using thin sheet rubber, laying it between a screwdriver and a slot.

When twisting from the board and other wooden products effective is a blow to the head of the screw, followed by tapping on the screwdriver at the moment the force is applied. If the universal screw with a semicircular head is not completely wrapped (protrudes above the surface by at least a millimeter) or the design of its head allows this, then you can use pliers or a gas wrench to try to unscrew it.

A few drops of brake or lubricating fluid, kerosene will make the self-tapping screw scroll. You can heat the hardware, it will expand and deform the surrounding materials, and cooling down will allow you to turn it out.

It is possible to use adhesives (superglue, liquid nails, cold welding, and if time permits, epoxy compounds), soldering or, if the fastened parts allow, then welding. If the self-tapping screw has not begun to get out, we proceed to radical measures.

Carpentry Tricks. 10 Methods for Removing a Broken Screw.

Edge sawing

Regardless of the type of head and the original appearance of the slot, you can try to unscrew it with a flat screwdriver. To do this, it is necessary to saw through a straight slot in the head, using a hacksaw or grinder.

It should be borne in mind that the depth of the slot should not exceed half the height of the head, otherwise, there is a risk of its destruction. The use of sawing in conjunction with the methods listed above will increase your chances.

Using Extractors

Another way to remove screws is to use extractors. To do this, it is necessary to select a drill whose diameter is less than the diameter of the cavities of the threaded part of the screw, drill a hole in the head, cut a left-hand thread in it and, using conical extractors, unscrew the hardware.

This method is suitable for unscrewing fasteners with all types of heads. But it is not suitable for unscrewing self-tapping screws, because. they are hardened.

There are slotted extractors, which are a hex washer with a slot, which is located on inner channel instead of carving. The slotted extractor is put on the head, while the inner slot is screwed into it.

We unscrew the self-tapping screw with torn edges

Self-tapping screws with torn edges or with a torn off head are easiest to unscrew by applying heat or by welding (if the turning force is not very large, then gluing) to the rest of the nut or lever or cut through.

How to unscrew a screw?

If all of the above methods did not give a result, the fastener is very rusty, you can drill it with a metal drill of a suitable diameter and wrap a larger one in its place. To drill a self-tapping screw, you need to take a carbide drill. Hexagonal head, practically does not break. And when it breaks, you can use the tips above.

How to unscrew a broken screw How to unscrew a self-tapping screw with torn edges

Photo 1. Unscrewing an old countersunk head screw from a window sash with glass.

Of course, the simplest and fast way getting rid of old screws is a crowbar, but this method is good only when the old ones are dismantled wooden windows or doors before disposal or when appearance is of no fundamental importance. And to unscrew old screw with a minimum of damage to the wood into which it is twisted, and to glass, if work is carried out with sash(as shown in the photo), you often need to take the following actions:

1. Clean the slots from the paint

A slot (from the German schlitz - a cut) is a recess on the head (hat) of a screw for a conventional or Phillips screwdriver. In Soviet times, with all sorts of handles, locks and other latches on windows and doors, they didn’t really stand on ceremony, and therefore they covered it with oil paint, without embarrassment and not paying attention to whether it was on fittings or screws protective covering or not. Well, the paint, obeying the laws of physics, accumulated in the slots and dried out there, replacing the putty. It is almost impossible to unscrew a screw with 3-5 layers of paint on a countersunk head without cleaning the slot. However, it is not so difficult to clean the old oil paint from the slot. To do this, it is enough to have any sharp enough metal object, made from durable metal. Sufficiently strong metal means not only tool steel, but also different kind victorious and corundum soldering on various kinds of scribers, in extreme cases, you can use a thin nail, in any case, its strength is much greater than strength oil paint. Personally, I use a special wedge nozzle for these purposes, this used to be included in a set of screwdrivers. With such a nozzle, you can not only pierce wood, but also clean the slots from paint. However, the disadvantage of such a nozzle is that it is not always at hand. This happened in the described case, when in the country it was necessary to unscrew a couple of old handles, so a nail was used to clean the slots.

You need to clean the slots very carefully than more paint you remove from the slots, the more likely it is that the screw can be unscrewed. However, this is not yet a guarantee of success. I don’t know exactly why, either because there was some kind of miscalculation or flaw in the technology of making screws, or screws for domestic purposes were made only on equipment worn out in the arms race, or from steel Low quality, or simply because I only come across such old screws, but the slots on the old soviet screws are not of high quality. And their main drawback is that the slots are not deep. And the smaller the depth of the slot, the easier it is for these very slots to be "torn off" or "licked off" when unscrewing. After all, when we try to unscrew a screw, we must overcome the force of friction between the screw shaft and the wood. This force arises during elastic deformations of wood and does not weaken for many years and even decades, and if the screw also rusts, then the resulting scale must be further destroyed. And to do this is not always easy. Even a simple nail hammered into wood, which can be immediately pulled out with a crowbar without any problems, after many years due to corrosion, can adhere to the wood so that it is almost impossible to pull it out, just cut it off or break it off.

Sometimes if there is an old unnecessary screwdriver, then you can sharpen it and use it as a chisel to deepen the slots.

2. Press as hard as possible on the screwdriver at the very beginning of unscrewing

As already mentioned, the main task, to overcome the friction force and the adhesion force of rust, i.e. break the screw off the dead center. If you managed to turn the screw at least a quarter of a turn, then consider that the job is done, then everything will only get easier. With each turn, the area of ​​contact of the screw with the wood will decrease and, therefore, the friction force will decrease. Sometimes, in the process of unscrewing, the slots are completely licked, but if the screw is unscrewed at least half a centimeter, then you can continue to work with pliers.

3. Drill out the head of the screw

If the screw was hammered, and not twisted into wood and bent at the same time, or rather, its axis changed shape and became not straight, then sufficient play is needed to unscrew such a screw, which can only be obtained if the screw to be unscrewed is the last one. And also if you tore off the slots on the head of the screw, but could not turn it even a quarter of a turn, then in these cases best option- drilling the head of the screw. To do this, you need to have a drill and a drill for metal with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter countersunk head screw. When you have torn off the slots, then you can drill the head without preliminary punching, and if the screw does not stupidly unscrew, but the slots are in place, then it is better to punch first. However, in the course of drilling, the drill itself will fall into the sweat. After the head is drilled, you can remove the fittings and the rest of the screw or unscrew it with pliers or hammer deeper.

There are probably other ways to unscrew the old rusty screws but I don't know them yet.

The edges of a screw usually break at the most inopportune moment, regardless of whether you are a master or a beginner. How to unscrew a screw that has broken edges?

Why is this happening

Most often, the edges of the screws break off due to the wear of the tool used. When the edges on the working area of ​​the screwdriver tip are not sharp enough and there is no tight contact between the tip and the screw, the ribs on the screw head are destroyed (“licking”).

Another common reason is not enough strong force applied by hand to the tool. Due to the fact that the tip of the screwdriver does not fit tightly into the grooves on the head of the screw, during rotation the tip of the screwdriver slips, as a result of which the edges on the screw break off.

What to do first

The first thing to do when the tip of the screwdriver begins to jump off the edges and turn is to stop immediately. You should not be persistent, repeating attempts that aggravate an already difficult situation.

Whether you've driven the screw or removed it before, the only task you have now is to remove the screw without damaging the material it's in.

Tool change

The second action in case of problems with the edges of the screw should be the obligatory replacement of the screwdriver with a new one, with an unworn tip.

Using new tool, try to unscrew the naughty screw, making sure that the tip of the screwdriver fits securely into the grooves on the screw head and is pressed tightly against it.

If this does not help, the screwdriver continues to slip, and the edges on the screw are irrevocably torn off, go to the following ways loosening a stuck screw.

Emergency ways to unscrew the screw

If the screw is not fully screwed in, grasp the sides of the screw with the pliers and, squeezing the pliers tightly, slowly begin to turn them in the opposite direction from the clock. Usually after a short exercise the screw is free.

Another way to unscrew an incompletely screwed screw is to make a shallow (about 1-2 mm) cut with a hacksaw, and then try to unscrew it with a screwdriver with a flat (and always sharp!) sting.

If the material into which the screw is screwed allows, also good option to extract it is to heat the screw head with a match flame or. When heated, the screw, although not by much, will expand and increase in volume, compressing the material into which it is twisted.

After the screw has cooled, its volume will return to its initial state, but a microscopic gap will appear between it and the material. Now the screw will no longer “sit” so tightly and it can be unscrewed, if not with a screwdriver, then with pliers for sure.

The find will be the presence of WD-40 lubricating fluid on hand, which must be sprayed into the gap between the screw and the material into which it is twisted. Due to the lubricating properties of the liquid, the friction force between the screw and the material will be significantly reduced and the screw will become easier to unscrew.

If none of the above tips helped, the screw will either have to be completely drilled or drilled a little, and then screw the extractor into this hole and use it to unscrew the screw.

Desperate situations there is no solution to the problem of unscrewing a screw with torn edges - confirmation of this.

Good luck to you! May you succeed!

If the screwdriver constantly slips in the head of the screw, you need to create additional friction or apply a lot of torque between it and the head. There are enough simple ways remove the screw with the help of improvised household materials. Of course, for tightly locked screws you will need special tools, but they are not so expensive and are always on sale.

Steps

With a regular screwdriver

Maximize the quality of the screw-driver grip. If the head of the screw has not yet been completely torn off and the screwdriver is still clinging to it, try to unscrew the screw by hand one last time. To increase your chances of success, follow the instructions below.

Use auxiliary materials to increase the friction force. If the screwdriver is slipping stubbornly in a damaged screw head, cover the screw with a small piece of material that will provide a better grip between the screwdriver and the head. Place the screwdriver on the head through this material and try to remove the screw again. The following can be used as supporting materials:

• a wide cut elastic band (to make a strip of rubber);
• a piece of steel wool;
• a piece of green abrasive kitchen sponge;
• adhesive tape (adhesive side to the screw head).

1. Tap the screwdriver lightly to seat it correctly in the slots. Hit the screwdriver carefully so you don't accidentally break the screw head. If you are working with a fragile item, skip this step.

   Press firmly on the screwdriver while turning. Grasp the screwdriver handle with your palm and place your forearm in line with the screwdriver. With full force, press the screwdriver with your hand while turning.

   • If the screwdriver slips through the head again, stop immediately. Further scrolling of the screwdriver in the cap will only deform it even more and complicate the process of extracting the screw. Be sure to check that you are turning the screw in the correct direction when you remove it. Usually (but not always), to unscrew the screw, it should be turned counterclockwise (we unscrew it to the left, and we twist it to the right). Strong pressure on the screwdriver itself prevents it from slipping in the hat.

2. Heat up the problem screw. If you can heat the problematic screw without any harm to the object it is screwed into, this will help loosen the grip of the thread. Heat the screw building hair dryer or gas burner moving the appliance constantly to avoid overheating. As soon as the screw becomes so hot that a drop of water that has fallen on it immediately begins to hiss, leave it to cool, and then try to unscrew it again.

   • This is especially helpful when the screw is driven using binder or glue.

3. Using a hacksaw, cut a slot in the head of the screw for a flathead screwdriver. If you are still unable to move the screw, cut a groove in its head. Then insert a flathead screwdriver into the slot and try to remove the screw. This step can be combined with any of the above steps.

   With an impact screwdriver

   1. Take impact screwdriver. Impact screwdriver is hand tool, the tip of which cuts deeper into the head of the screw, due to the action of force and spring. This screwdriver is well suited for durable building structures, but it can damage electronics and fragile equipment. If you're worried about damaging an object with a stuck screw, steer clear of cheap hard spring screwdrivers, as they require more forceful hammer blows.

      • It is also not recommended to use an electric impact screwdriver, as its excessive force can damage the surface into which the screw is screwed.

   2. Set the screwdriver to loosen the screws. Some screwdriver models have a switch. In other models, the direction of rotation is set by turning the screwdriver handle.

      Attach a screwdriver to the head of the screw. Insert an appropriately sized bit into the screwdriver. Attach a screwdriver to the screw and hold it strictly at an angle of 90º to the plane of the cap. Grasp the middle of the screwdriver handle so that the end of the handle is free.

      Hit the screwdriver with a mallet. Hit the screwdriver handle hard with a heavy mallet. A rubber mallet will help prevent scratches on the screwdriver handle.

      Check the direction of rotation of the screwdriver. Some impact screwdrivers reset rotation settings after each hit. If the setting is reset, return it to the unscrew position.

      Repeat the procedure until the screw yields. As soon as the screw starts to unscrew, switch to a regular screwdriver and unscrew it from the hole.

   With an extractor

   Take an extractor to remove broken screws. If the head of the screw is stripped, but is intact, buy an extractor to extract stripped screws. A conventional extractor is a kind of extra hard metal screwdriver with a reverse thread on the tip. This is one of the most reliable tools for retrieving stripped screws, but should be used with care. If the extractor breaks off right in the cap, then it will be possible to remove the screw only with the help of professionals. To reduce the chance of tool breakage, choose an extractor with a diameter no greater than 75% of the diameter of the screw shank (not the head).

   • For screws with a star or hex slot and a protruding cylindrical body, use a special multi-knurl extractor. It fits well into the hat and is fixed on it. inner surface with numerous teeth notches. Instead of following the directions below, simply tap the extractor inserted into the cap gently and turn it with a box wrench.

   1. Punch a hole in the center of the screw head. Set the punch exactly in the center of the screw head. Tap the center punch with a hammer to make a notch for installing the drill.

      • Wear eye protection against flying metal filings. Do not remove protection until the end of work.

   2. Drill a hole in the head of the screw. Take a quality drill designed for drilling solid metals. The extractor must be marked with the appropriate drill size for it. Drill slowly and evenly (if possible, use drilling machine). First, drill a hole 3-6 mm deep. Due too deep hole the screw may break. It's a good idea to start drilling the screw with a thinner bit so that later it's easier to work with a thicker one.

      Tap the extractor in the hole with a brass mallet. The hardened extractor metal is brittle enough that a blow from an iron or steel hammer can break it. Tap the extractor until it locks securely into the drilled hole.

      Turn the extractor carefully. If the torque is too harsh or uneven, the extractor may break, making the situation worse. The safest way to remove a screw with an extractor is to use the handle that comes with it. The drilling itself should have loosened the screw, so it should come out with little effort.

      • Some extractor sets have a hexagonal non-working end. Grab this end with two wrenches at a 180º angle to each other to evenly distribute the force.

   3. Heat up the screw if it doesn't budge. If the screw does not come out or you are afraid to break the extractor, remove the tool. Heat the screw with a torch, and then drop paraffin or plain water on it to lubricate the threads. When the screw has cooled, try using the extractor again.

   Additional Methods

   Glue the nut to the screw head using epoxy glue. Find a nut that fits snugly over the head of the screw. Glue the head nut with epoxy metal glue, often referred to as " cold welding". Wait for the glue to harden, and then put on wrench on the nut and turn.

   • If you don't have a nut of the right size, you can stick a smaller nut on top of the screw head, but the connection won't be as strong.

   1. Hire a professional. If all your efforts are in vain, hire a craftsman who can remove the screw using an EDM machine. This is often the only way out when the extractor has broken off in the head of the screw.

   • If you have the opportunity to view reverse side the surface into which the screw is screwed, check to see if it sticks out there. In this case, you can use pliers or a box wrench to grab the end of the screw and unscrew it from the inside out.
   • Make sure you turn the screw in the correct direction. The screw may be reverse threaded, requiring clockwise rotation to remove it.
   • If the hole left after the screw is damaged, then the situation can be corrected in several ways.
     What will you need
     • Screwdriver
     • An extractor for extracting broken screws or a whole set of extractors (in a tool store, the price for these products can vary from several hundred to several thousand rubles)
     • Ring wrench
     • Electric drill
     • Drill for metal
     • Eye protection
     • Work gloves
     • Regular hammer or mallet
     • impact screwdriver
     • Hacksaw
     • Pliers
     • Tape, rubber band, steel wool, or abrasive

The edges of a screw usually break at the most inopportune moment, regardless of whether you are a master or a beginner. Due to the fact that the tip of the screwdriver does not fit tightly into the grooves on the head of the screw, during rotation the tip of the screwdriver slips, as a result of which the edges on the screw break off. When heated, the screw, although not by much, will expand and increase in volume, compressing the material into which it is twisted. Due to the lubricating properties of the liquid, the friction force between the screw and the material will be significantly reduced and the screw will become easier to unscrew. There are no hopeless situations, and the solution to the problem of unscrewing a screw with torn edges is a confirmation of this.

Video - The best ways to remove a broken screw

Need to pick up right size for screwing into a broken slot. Install the extractor in the chuck of the screwdriver and tighten the chuck securely. Since the extractor is reverse threaded, this means that a drill with an extractor set to reverse will drill into the head.

Why do the edges on the fastener break off?

The screw breaks even when too little pressure is applied to the screwdriver. On the other hand, a screw may be quite new, but it bends and subsequently breaks due to poor quality. As soon as the screwdriver slipped over the edges for the first time, do not get excited and repeat the procedure. Perhaps in your case, the screwdriver simply does not fit the screw you have chosen. Therefore, you can try your luck by using several attempts with other screwdrivers. The screw will move out of its place and then it can certainly be removed. This method is also applicable if a stripped thread does not allow the screw to be unscrewed.

To do this, it is enough to have any sufficiently sharp metal object made of durable metal. With such a nozzle, you can not only pierce wood, but also clean the slots from paint. And their main drawback is that the slots are not deep.

Maximize the quality of the screw-driver grip. Be sure to check that you are turning the screw in the correct direction when you remove it. Strong pressure on the screwdriver itself prevents it from slipping in the hat. Heat the screw with a blow dryer or gas burner, moving the appliance constantly to avoid overheating.

Step 1: Rubber band (elastic band)

Ideally, tools designed for repairing glasses should be used for twisting (there will be no difficulties in finding them, and they are not very expensive). It is advisable to insert the tip at a slight angle to increase the contact area. Use a nail file.

Such a screwdriver is well suited for strong building structures, but it can damage electronics and fragile equipment. A rubber mallet will help prevent scratches on the screwdriver handle. Check the direction of rotation of the screwdriver. Repeat the procedure until the screw yields.

Step 1. As noted earlier, there is only one recess on the head of such a screw. Use only an unnecessary card, because it may well be damaged during twisting. Step 7 The last way- use of pliers.

Types of screws

The slot on this screw is broken. In such fasteners, the entire load falls on the screws. Both the hole and the slot are damaged. Then, by removing the slot, the fastening materials are damaged. Even if adhesives are not used, corrosion can also do a “dirty job”: when rusting, a metal fastener becomes one with the tree. Do you know anything about a special nozzle designed to unscrew damaged screws? Hit the center punch with a hammer, but not very hard, because the diameter of the rod is already small, do not damage it even more. The size of the extractor must match the size of the screw.

You can fix the problem by heating the fasteners. When it cools, space will be released in the structure of the workpiece, which will weaken the grip. As soon as the fastener becomes hot to the touch, it is necessary to stop heating.

If a torn screw sits in the material at a decent depth, and there is no other option how to remove it ... The time has come for the “cheap and cheerful” option.

If so, then you should only work with a recess of greater length to simplify the task. The method often works only with small screws. Step 5 Use an old CD. After waiting a bit for the melted plastic to solidify, turn the brush counterclockwise.

Edge sawing

Fastening with screws of any products, a convenient and reliable way. Let's try to figure out how to make unscrewing more efficient. More precisely, the slot in his head breaks.

To do this, you should use a hacksaw for metal with the thinnest blade possible.

Often, the corners (facets) formed by the intersection of the recesses grind off and become brittle, which greatly complicates the unscrewing of such screws. Use your fingernail. Insert the edge of an old CD into the long groove and turn it counterclockwise. Use pliers. Torx protected screws also exist; they have a rod in the center of the recess in the shape of a six-pointed star. Use a small flathead screwdriver.

It fits well into the hat and is fixed on its inner surface with the help of numerous notch teeth. Set the punch exactly in the center of the screw head. Take a quality drill bit designed for drilling hard metals. Drill slowly and evenly (use a drill press if possible). Tap the extractor until it locks securely into the drilled hole.

Of course this method not applicable so often, since not every part can be heated in this way. Alternatively, instead of blowtorch you can use a soldering iron or an industrial hair dryer, this option is suitable for small screws. Place a chisel against the head of the bolt and try to pry it out of place with strong hammer blows. There is an electrochemical option for loosening old screws and bolts.

It is important that the tip fits snugly into the groove and is not damaged.

Pretty clear and understandable wooden structures. But what to do if the threads on the bicycle bolts are torn off? Bgg, I blew off on the steering wheel, just on the mount to the stem.

The most effective and generally accepted method of dealing with non-loosening bolts is to wet it (the bolt) with penetrating liquids (WD-40, kerosene). Such liquids penetrate deep into the threads of the bolt and lubricate it, after which the bolt slides more easily along the thread. effective method unscrewing stuck bolts is oblique blows to the hat. Usually it is a drill with a reverse thread.

Step 6: Leave him alone?

A little nuisance, like a broken screw, happens for a variety of reasons. It happens that in a hard material, the screw simply breaks off, and part of it remains in the body of the material. It is possible to remove a broken screw different ways. If there is no protruding part, then you need to deepen them in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe screw to the edge of the break and grab them. So far, it doesn't really pull anywhere. Perhaps this is the most important thing.

The meaning is the same - “to tear the rust off the spot ... And if the screw is stuck, then a common way to deal with this disaster is to soak it in Coca-Cola. After the screw has turned sour, and it is better to stay longer, for example, leave it overnight, it must be warmed up well! We work with glasses. As a result, the hole may not turn out to be very even, but after a slight correction with a building mixture, you can again hang a shelf in this place, for example. Very good and useful tool, with it there are nozzles (bits) for all occasions, and it is not very expensive.

The solution to the problem can be an extractor. On the opposite side fixtures have a perpendicular crossbar, with which you can rotate. Next, you need to use the extractor itself. Then you need to turn the device several times.

We try to push it as hard as possible. Instead of stationery gum, you can take any rubber plate or other part. To no longer suffer with licked screws, they can be fixed.

Maybe, of course, not quite in the subject, but my father, when in the old days he screwed something at home, constantly asked me to bring him soap from the bathroom. First, you first need to make one sharp biting blow to the head of the screw. I was in such a situation and, to be honest, I didn’t always twist it positively.

Moving under light pressure to the handle, the nozzle will also inform about the depth of the hole. hand drill will help you out when you need to wrap a large number of screws.

Why is it so important to preserve the material? By revealing the question, it will be possible to get a more reliable answer, avoiding disputes between those giving answers. The main thing is to do everything confidently so as not to break the drill. And if the hat is deep and there is no way to get close to it?

Very often, in this case, we are faced with torn screws, the removal of which sometimes seems almost impossible. If there are no edges on the torn screw at all, try unscrewing it with a small adjustable wrench. If you have heated the part, start cooling the screw. If you have heated the screw, cool the part. As a result of the resulting temperature difference, the broken screw must be loosenable.

Check the condition of the screw. Be careful not to damage the new notch with excessive force. Before taking on the removal of a torn screw, you need to assess the need for its removal.

I've always managed to get it out this way. Then there is no way to get close to him. How to make a hole in a tile for an outlet? Yes, elementary, a professional will answer! In this video, we will consider one method, the other two, I will simply describe the manufacturing technology. Maybe you decide to talk about your repair, write, we will listen with pleasure.

You should take a tool with an unworn sharp sting and try to non-violently remove the naughty fasteners.

Something simpler, the simplest, so as not to damage. And at the expense of burnt screws (as I understand it, they were exposed to high temperature) - they could harden or, on the contrary, sink. Probably everyone, at least once, has come across such a nuance as sagging ceiling. Holding the other end, mark the place where the nail will be hammered.

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