To get rid of dampness, you need to draw a row preparatory activities... To understand why it appeared, where the moisture is oozing from and how you can fix it. You will learn about all this from our article.

Dampness is a very unpleasant phenomenon that can destroy the stored crop. If moisture "settles" in the room, it can lead to the destruction of the structure and deterioration of the health of everyone who regularly descends into the cellar or basement. Read about why dampness "comes to visit" and how to get rid of it as soon as possible - read our material.

Dampness in the house - the reasons for the appearance

Condensation forms on ceilings, floors and walls for a variety of reasons. The most common causes of dampness are the following factors:

ventilation problems... Errors at the design or construction stage lead to the fact that ventilation in the room is disturbed. The most common mistake is that poorly laid floor slabs and debris block ventilation ducts;

When the temperature difference between inside and outside the room, condensation forms on the windows and walls, and this is the first sign that mold will appear soon.

rising groundwater levels... In spring and autumn, when the flooding of basements and cellars begins due to heavy rains, dampness also intensifies. Poor drainage leads to underground storage water accumulates, the level of humidity rises sharply, and the room turns into an eternally damp closed system;

capillary penetration of moisture from the soil or through cracks... If the foundation was erected in violation of the technology, then after some time, due to temperature changes, droplets of moisture will appear on its inner walls. Over time, this can lead to partial damage to the walls and even their collapse.

Mold spores can provoke many dangerous diseases including cancers

Why dampness is dangerous

Condensation and characteristic bad smell- these are just the first signs of impending disaster. Condensation has the following consequences:

mold and mildew appear; the temperature regime and the level of humidity in the room are violated; microorganisms harmful to humans multiply; walls, ceiling and ceilings are constantly waterlogged.

Because of what the finish suffers; the destruction of the foundation, walls and ceilings begins.

Concrete surfaces and tiles are most often attacked by mold.

How to get rid of dampness

First of all, all summer residents are concerned about the question of how to remove dampness. There are several reliable ways to eliminate dampness in the cellar and basement, but first you need to find out what caused the appearance excess moisture... To do this, carefully examine the room:

• if water droplets appeared on the walls and ceiling, the reason is in violation of ventilation;
• puddles on the floor indicate an increase in the level of groundwater;
• droplets only on the walls hint at the lack of basement waterproofing.

Now let's take a closer look at ways to eliminate each of the causes.

How to improve ventilation

If the air exchange in the room is disturbed, the easiest way to improve it is by organizing additional ventilation. Basement ventilation is of two types:

natural - involves the use of the so-called. "air" - holes along the perimeter of the building. Their total area should be about 1/400 total area buildings; forced - implies the use of special equipment that forcibly injects fresh air. Usually used in large rooms.

Installing forced ventilation is an expensive pleasure

To get rid of condensation on the ceiling and walls, you can carry out the following procedures:

Thermal insulation of engineering networks... If you have utilities in your basement - plumbing and sewer pipes- then the temperature of the water in them is always higher than the temperature in the room. As a result, condensation forms on them. To get rid of heat loss, you need to use a protective shell made of mineral wool, foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Extraction organization... For additional ventilation premises set ventilation ducts or pipes. Usually they are attached to vertical load-bearing elements either attached to existing structures. Two pipes are installed in the room - an exhaust and a supply, placing them on different heights from the floor in opposite corners of the room. This is necessary so that traction appears and the room is blown out.

Lowering the water table

If groundwater seeps into the room, it is serious problem, which over time can lead to the partial collapse of the building. In this case, it is necessary to carry out a number of additional measures aimed at strengthening the foundation and pumping out groundwater.

In particular, you will need to do the following:

• dig out the foundation;
• organize drainage around the perimeter of the building;
• strengthen the foundation; arrange external and internal waterproofing;
• make a blind area around the perimeter of the building;
• dry the room.

Only qualified specialists can carry out the whole range of work on groundwater disposal

How to get rid of capillary moisture

If moisture forms on the walls of a building, this means that it penetrates from the external environment, namely from the soil. Some of the most popular measures can be used to prevent it from entering a building:

use of waterproofing materials- first of all roofing material, linokrome and hydroisol. All of them are made from pieces of dense material impregnated with bitumen. The cellar or basement is pasted over as with outside and from the inside;

protective compounds which clog the pores in concrete are also considered an excellent "cure" for capillary moisture;

Thanks to these compositions, it is possible to organize both a point effect on the holes through which moisture oozes, and application to all problem areas.

bituminous mastic and polymer resins used for additional protection of walls and floors from condensation. These compounds can be applied independently, but they do not always provide the required level of protection and it is better to supplement them with waterproofing materials;

shielding applied in especially difficult cases, when, simultaneously with capillary action, groundwater appears in the room. Protective shields are made from geotextiles, bentonite or clay.

With capillary penetration, moisture from the floor evaporates and settles on the walls

External waterproofing basement or cellar

Inspect the structure and check the condition of the slopes, drainpipes, drainage system and blind area. If you, in principle, do not have a drainage system, then first start by installing drainpipes and slopes. Next, move on to protecting the outer walls:

• remove the old blind area;
• dig a hole about 50 cm wide from outer wall basement;
• dry the outer wall;
• apply an antifungal compound to it;
• coat the wall with bitumen mastic, clay or concrete with liquid glass additives;
• make a blind area from a sheet of roofing material - fix it 0.5 m above the ground level and bring it beyond the edges of the outer wall of the basement;
• fill the hole.

External insulation can be supplemented with a drainage system

Internal waterproofing basement

After completing outdoor work, you can also insulate the basement or cellar with inside... This is done like this:

• dry the room;
• remove all loose coatings and whitewash;
• find and clear all the cracks;
• saturate the walls with an antifungal drug;
• apply a waterproofing compound;
• if desired, plaster the walls at a height of 0.5-1 m from the floor.

Instead of applying plaster, you can treat the walls with a waterproofing compound

Floor work to eliminate moisture

If moisture penetrates the walls, hits the floor and evaporates, you should also do floor covering... The floor and walls should be concreted using liquid glass and roofing.

You can also follow a simple algorithm (if you have a clay floor):

• remove a layer of clay about 5 cm thick;
• level the floor surface and cover it with two layers of waterproofing film;
• sprinkle it on top with clay or pour concrete and level the surface.

Use only cement-based putties, as their gypsum counterparts actively absorb moisture

When seasonal flooding of the site use a different method:

• Spread a layer of sand or gravel about 10 cm thick on the floor to prevent flooding by groundwater. Add more gravel if necessary if groundwater seeps through the drainage layer;
• apply a special waterproofing plaster on the walls;
• place in the corners of the cellar glass jars with calcium chloride (it will absorb excess moisture). One cellar requires no more than 0.5-1 kg of powder;
• sprinkle the floor quicklime with a layer of 1 cm - it will absorb excess moisture and dry the room. To combat mold and mildew, you can slake lime right in the basement. Pour some lime into an empty container and fill it with water. The vapors released will kill germs and mold.

It is better to leave the room during the release of lime vapors. Return there in an hour and immediately arrange ventilation for a few hours.

Folk methods of dealing with dampness

You can normalize the humidity level in the cellar using folk remedies:

dry the walls of the cellar with clay bricks. Place 2-3 heated bricks in different corners of the basement. When they cool down, they will begin to absorb moisture. To achieve maximum effect, they can be reused; to get rid of mold, treat the walls of the cellar with vinegar or boric acid(dilute 20 ml of acid in 1 liter of water), you can use citric acid(dissolve 100 g of powder in 1 liter of water); take out all the products stored there from the basement or cellar and treat the damp walls with diesel fuel, and then whitewash them.

Removing dampness and mold is a rather laborious process. Therefore, you need to take care of the organization of drainage and waterproofing in advance, then you need to deal with high humidity don't have to. What methods of dealing with dampness do you know?

It may seem to many that a house with a basement is perfect solution many problems regarding finding a place to store things. However, not all owners of houses with a basement are happy to have it, because you constantly have to think about before it starts to bloom and an unpleasant smell appears. The thing is that basements are often flooded with water during the period of active snow melting and prolonged rains.

Increased humidity in the basement creates optimal conditions for the development of fungi and mold, quickly colonizing all walls and ceiling of the room. Over time, the water begins to stagnate, a pungent smell appears, which can make living in the house impossible. A large number of mold and mildew, combined with a musty smell, pose a serious threat to the lives of people living in the house. These are far from all the troubles that are hidden in the flooding of the premises, because often the property left in the basement for storage is also damaged.

All the problems associated with stem from their improper arrangement, since in some areas where groundwater is close to the surface, it is strongly discouraged to build houses with basements. Many owners of private houses deliberately do not pay attention to the recommendations of professionals, and after a long struggle with groundwater, they still decide to fill the cellar, which is causing so much trouble.

It is as difficult to fill up the cellar in the house correctly as it is to dig it up correctly, it is especially difficult to bury the cellar located under the house, since in this case it is necessary to make drainage, pick up a soil composition that will subsequently pass water through itself so that moisture does not accumulate in the basement, and went back into the soil.

In addition, the soil composition must be laid correctly so that it does not sag in the future and does not push water to the surface.

To backfill the basement, you can use:

• non-porous soils;
• river sand;
• construction scrap;
• clay;
• expanded clay;
• crushed stone.

If the water is in the basement throughout the year, it is better to fill the cellar with layers of bulk materials, after having done drainage. Also, in some cases the best option the basement will be filled with concrete. In this case, you can get reliable protection against flooding at home, but this method is not only the highest-quality solution to the problem, but also the most expensive, since usually the cellars located under the house have a fairly large volume, which means that a lot of mixture will be needed. Drainage is not necessary when using concrete.

Back to the table of contents

Correct selection of material for backfilling the basement

So, first you need to decide how to fill the cellar in a particular case. If it is not filled with water in the spring, and its filling is required due to the danger of its collapse, you can fill its lower part with any soil, and the upper one with rubble. Such cases are rare, so this option is not suitable for all owners of houses with a basement.

If there is slight flooding every spring basement, that is, the water fills about 20-30 cm, it is best to use fine river sand. In this case, the process of filling the basement with material can last 2-3 years, since it will not work to tamp the sand properly without disassembling the floors, which means that when flooding this material will sag, so you will have to add it for several seasons. Sand is a great option when there is no concrete stitch on the floor in the basement, but just a wooden floor. With proper backfilling, the sand will only get wet up to the middle of the basement, and the ceiling of the backfilled room will always remain dry.

If every spring the cellar is flooded to the very ceiling, it will not work to fill the basement with sand, since the sand will get wet completely, which will eventually lead to the destruction of the floor and subfloor on the first floor of the house. Plus, the chances are good that your basement won't dry out all year long. In this case, it is necessary to use a mixture of broken construction waste, that is, broken bricks, gravel, and sand. These materials must be stacked in layers. The first layer is made of construction waste, sand is poured over it. It is very important that at the surface, that is, at the very, there was again a layer of broken construction debris.

If the basement is filled up in an area where groundwater is constantly standing, it is best to cover it with layers of clay and sand. The first layer is covered with clay, and the last layer should be made of sand. A layer of river sand and expanded clay is considered to be universal, but this method of disposal of the cellar is quite expensive. When used under the house, a base is formed that does not allow moisture to pass through.

If you wish, you can also fill up the basement, in which water accumulates every spring, sandy soil removed during the construction of the foundation at another construction site. In this case, it is important that the soil is not porous. In addition, when filling it, it is imperative to form a drainage system so that water is removed from the basement. If you do not want to touch the basement in the future and constantly pour in the settling bulk material, you must first fill in and tamp a layer of sand, on top of it a layer of gravel, and so that it is as close as possible to the surface of the basement. With the help of a vibrating plate, it is necessary to compact the layers if possible. The last layer of concrete is poured through the pipe. For this method of recycling the basement, it will be necessary to make several passes in order to fill maximum amount concrete. After the concrete hardens, you can forget about the problem of backfilling the basement forever.

Construction Materials

Peter Kravets

Reading time: 3 minutes

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In the basements of houses, flooring is often used, regardless of the foundation. The cold comes to the floors of the first floor, usually either from the ground, or from the space above it, usually the basement.

The floors are called floating. During their installation, the supporting frame of the floor and partitions is made on a special colonnade or a longitudinal lining.

But in the cold season, the basement and the underground must be insulated, especially when the house is made of wood. When a strong wind appears outside, it enters the house and passes between the boards, providing drafts.

How to fill up the basement under the house so as not to worsen the situation? When insulating the subfloor, there is some contradiction in the very essence of the work, on the one hand, insulation is necessary, on the other, ventilation.

If no air circulation is provided, then the wood can succumb to putrefactive processes and begin to become moldy. The first step is to equip windows for ventilation of the house and insulate the basement, if any.

Basement ventilation system in a wooden house

In rooms where constant ventilation is arranged, moisture does not linger, settling on the surfaces of that part of the building where it is limited or carried out in insufficient quantity... Wood is very moisture-absorbing, which leads to its rapid destruction.

Important! Floors in wooden house need ventilation. If this is not done, then the entire underground will very quickly become damp and rot, and the boards will fail during operation.

The main thing that needs to be done right away when laying the foundation is to leave space for future ventilation grilles, in a wooden house they are also made of wood.

If the foundation is made up of cinder blocks, then the lattice is put in place of one of the blocks. If the foundation is made by pouring, then when pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to make room for the partition of the ventilation window.

According to the number of required gratings - it is necessary to equip at least 2 for the entire basement, and they should be placed opposite each other in order to facilitate the passage of air flows.

Humidity provokes the development of microorganisms and fungal spores, which are most dangerous to human health. Air with spores, passing through the respiratory system, settles on the mucous membranes of the nasopharynx and can cause many diseases from lungs to nervous exhaustion.

To improve the ventilation of the subfloor country house, necessary:

• Take care of the windows, in summer time they should be checked as often as possible for growing weeds and debris that can block air access;
• From inside the basement, it is necessary to equip the placed equipment and the interior of the basement so that they do not stand in the way of air masses from the window;
• In the cold season, in case of frost, it is necessary to block access fresh air to avoid cold inside the house.

The thrust can be increased by installing new holes in the foundation, drilled with the diamond attachments of the drilling machine. You can use the help of specialized firms engaged in such drilling.

It is also possible to strengthen the hood by installing fans on the grilles of the underfloor, possibly with automatic control of switching on. Switch-on modes can be done at certain time intervals by configuring programmable sensors.

For a very damp room it is enough to do ventilation for half an hour within 5 hours.

Backfilling of an underground room

Before filling and insulating the subfloor in a wooden house, it is necessary to choose the material with which the backfill will be made free space... Need to be given Special attention basement ventilation, because thermal insulation impairs air exchange.

Expanded clay

Most often, the underground is covered with expanded clay, burnt clay. It is a very light material that is very comfortable to work with.

The backfill of the subfloor is done subject to the mandatory rules:

• In order for ventilation to be provided at least at a minimum level, 20-50 mm must be left between the filled layer and the floor;
• The thickness of the backfilled layer should not overlap the ventilation holes;
• Expanded clay is dried before falling asleep, since the concentration of moisture can cause decay of the floor boards.

Wood shavings mixture

The subfloor can be filled with a mixture of wood shavings and foam. When frozen, it fills the entire space and practically guarantees a solid protection against negative impact cold air and moisture.

But in case wooden house such a mixture cannot be used. The thing is that the installation method involves high pressure that can undermine the base of the floor.

Mineral wool

Thermal insulation in some cases is done using mineral wool. Unlike its counterparts, glass wool, for example, contains a much smaller number of small particles that are so dangerous to human health in the composition of the mineral material.

The method of installation inside the subfloor excludes possible contact of particles with humans, which is, of course, environmentally friendly.

The fastening method is very simple - waterproofing is attached to the subfloor with the first layer, usually a construction stapler is used. As soon as the protective material is fixed, the installation of the mineral wool begins.

It is fastened with special bolts with large diameter caps to prevent damage or tearing of the material.

With the help of such a multilayer, reliable protection against drafts is achieved, moreover, this material belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and retaining heat.

Expanded polystyrene

Floor protection with the use of expanded polystyrene is very effective, without compromising the ventilation of the subfloor. It can also be used in wooden buildings.

As a material in itself, polystyrene foam is considered waterproof, therefore, when installing it, it is not required to make a waterproofing layer.

The only one weak point of such an arrangement, only the joints of the material are considered. It is necessary to further strengthen the protection of the load-bearing beams.

Expanded polystyrene is very convenient to work with, the material is quite lightweight, but dense, unlike its counterparts - cotton wool in various designs... The cost of expanded polystyrene is relatively low and an affordable environment for the existing variety of similar protective materials.

Necessary underground care

Autumn

With the onset of cold weather, wooden ventilation grates will not be able to keep insects and small rodents in their search warm places for wintering. In order to prevent unauthorized access to the living room, a metal mesh is attached to the gratings.

You can cut it yourself with scissors, adjusting the size, and fix it with self-tapping screws to a wooden frame. You can use dowels instead of self-tapping screws, and then attach to the concrete base.

Spring

Spring floods are problematic ventilation system. Melt water spreads wherever possible, and in most cases accumulates at the walls of the building, penetrating into the basement.

The appearance of water in the basement is most often encountered by the owners of private houses and summer cottages. This phenomenon not only makes it impossible to use the basement for household needs, but also has a detrimental effect on the entire structure. Often flooding is caused by groundwater - consider what measures should be taken to get rid of unnecessary liquid in the basement, and the reasons for its occurrence.

The closest aquifer from the earth's surface, usually found in loose permeable rocks, is called groundwater. They are usually formed under the influence of precipitation and water ingress from surface water bodies.

The water table is not constant and depends on various factors.

The most common ones are as follows:

• the amount of precipitation, melt water;
• changes in bodies of water supplying groundwater;
• man-made human activities (hydroelectric power plants, canals and reservoirs, mining, industrial wastewater, etc.).

In groundwater, such a variety is distinguished as top water, a liquid that accumulates in the upper water-unsaturated soil layer above water-resistant soils (clay, loam). It is she who collects in the lowlands, erodes roads and most of all depends on precipitation.

The ground layer of water, in contrast to the artesian, has no pressure. In addition, this water is usually undrinkable and contaminated. various waste, including technogenic character, often has aggressive impurities.

Ground water can have such aggressiveness:

• general acid;
• leaching;
• magnesian;
• sulfate;
• carbon dioxide.

All of them in one way or another dissolve calcium carbonate and lead to the destruction of concrete.

Did you know? On Earth, 96% of the water is in the oceans, approximately 1.5% is groundwater, another 1.5% is the glaciers of Greenland and Antarctica. Moreover, the share of fresh water is only 2.5% - the overwhelming majority of it is in groundwater and glaciers.

What is the danger for the house

High level water can negatively affect an already existing structure:

• unwanted liquid, dampness and mold may appear in the basement, it will become unusable;
• aggressive admixtures of groundwater destroy concrete, and the foundation may lose its bearing capacity;
• Vodka accumulating during the rainy season can wash out the paths on the site, wash down the walls, and spoil the green spaces.

A high level of groundwater is considered to be more than 2 meters deep. But their occurrence below 2 meters is considered low and is welcomed by builders.

When building a house, you should always determine the level of groundwater on the site. Prospecting is the best way to deal with this. But if you do not want to use third-party services, then you can determine how far the groundwater is by the level of the liquid in the well in your area (or in the neighboring one).

Moreover, it is best to measure this level in autumn, during seasonal rains, or in spring, when there is a lot of melted snow. When building an expensive cottage, you should still resort to specialized services.

Did you know? Groundwater level that is too high for housing construction can be determined by folk signs... It has long been noted that reeds, horsetails, willows and alder grow in places where water beds are close..

Groundwater in the basement and how to deal with it: video

Reasons for the appearance of water

Before you start draining basements, you should determine the cause of the appearance of water and eliminate it as soon as possible. Only then can the flooded areas be drained.

Unwanted liquid can appear in the basement for a variety of reasons:

• closely located groundwater. This is the most common reason flooding of basements;
• accumulation of precipitation after rain with a poorly established drainage system or its absence;
• melt water ingress. This situation often develops with insufficient waterproofing of the structure and the absence of drainage to remove accumulating sediments. This is often observed in lowlands and other places where fluid accumulates;
• cracks in the foundation due to violation of construction technology;
• breakthrough of pipes in the basement;
• condensation due to poor ventilation.

How to remove water from the basement

If the basement is flooded, then you can use the following methods to eliminate it:

1. An inexpensive vibrating pump can be used to pump out unwanted liquid once. But it can be used if the scale of flooding is small. In this case, it is important to check that there is no debris in the water.
2. Pumping water using a drain pump. For this purpose, you can contact the appropriate company that provides services for pumping liquid, or purchase a pump and solve this problem. on their own.

The pumping method using a pump is considered more effective.

To independently remove excess liquid from the basement with a pump, you must adhere to the following instructions:

• a recess is made in the center of the basement and a plastic tank is installed, which plays the role of a drive. Holes are made in the body of such a tank;
• the reservoir is wrapped in geotextiles to prevent flooding. Fine gravel is poured onto the bottom to install the pump;
• then in the container prepared in this way is placed drainage pump... The gap between it and the pit is filled with a concrete mixture. The float in the pump determines the required water level, and the system in automatic mode includes a pump for pumping out liquid. After the pumping process, the system is shut down;
• to remove unnecessary liquid from the basement, a hose or special pipes are connected to such a system.

The pump for evacuation is of two types - submersible and external. When choosing submersible pump it is placed in a liquid medium, where it is located throughout the entire work. External pumps are attached to the water by a casing in their lower part, while top part is on the surface.

Thus, the pumping out of the effluent is carried out by the submerged part. To prevent flooding of the basement, it is necessary to take appropriate measures to equip a good drainage system.

What to do: How to prevent water infiltration

In order to get rid of the ingress of moisture into the basement, there are different methods, depending mainly on the cause of its appearance.

The easiest way to eliminate the appearance of wastewater in the basement on your own is to equip a pit. This method inexpensive in price and does not require too much time, therefore it is often used in private houses and summer cottages.

To properly equip the pit, you should take the following steps:

• in the center of the basement, dig a cube-shaped hole of about 1 m³ in volume. But it is worth considering - the larger the room, the larger the hole is dug in volume;
• in the very middle of the dug hole, a recess is made in which a stainless steel bucket is placed. The ground around such a bucket compresses well;
• we lay out the dug hole with a brick, and then cover it with a cement layer of about 2-3 cm;
• place a metal grate on top. The gap between the rods should enable the pump to pump out the liquid;
• dig small trenches in the pit and cover with tiles to form drains.

The joints between the tiles will serve as a drainage function.

Drainage for drainage

It is more complicated, but on the other hand effective method to remove unwanted liquid from basements. It takes more material costs, and it also takes more effort and time. It should be noted that there are several types of foundation drainage.

DIY drainage: video

The choice of a particular drainage system depends on the following points: terrain, depth of groundwater, soil, and so on.

There are three main types of drainage systems, each of which has its own specifics:

1. Wall-mounted... Such drainage is installed for buildings with a basement or basement. Its installation occurs immediately after construction works on the arrangement of the foundation.
2. Reservoir. This system drainage is installed at the time of excavation of a foundation pit for a facility under construction. It was used in the construction of slabs, therefore it is less commonly used.
3. Trench (ring)... Such a drainage system can be installed on your own. It is made in the form of a trench, dug round the walls of the house.

Important! The most effective is the trench system. Annular drainage system must be located 0.4-0.5 m deeper than the foundation level.

To make drainage for drainage, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• along the walls of the house, we dig a trench around the width of at least 1 m 20 cm using shovels or special equipment;
• on 4 sides of the main ditch, additional bends of about 5 m in length must be installed. Also for this purpose, you can use special equipment to speed up the process. At the end of such bends, a recess is dug, which should correspond in diameter to a ring of concrete;
• geotextiles are placed along the bottom of the trench, and a corrugated pipe for drainage is laid on top of it. After 7 m, inspection wells are installed, where drain pipe is interrupted;
• after laying the pipe, the trench is covered with crushed stone, and 10 cm before the foundation - with sand, then there is a layer of coarse crushed stone, about 15 cm to the very ground, and at the end, the top is poured with concrete.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is used to protect the house from water in the basement. Basement waterproofing is divided into two types - internal and external.

It is better to install external waterproofing during the construction of a house, because such a system for already built buildings requires much more labor and money.

In this case, you have to dig out the foundation and apply several layers of waterproofing, and then you will need to lay the soil around the outer walls in several layers - from sand, gravel and pour concrete on top.

Usually, during such works, a circular drainage system is installed at the same time, which significantly increases their cost.

External waterproofing is done in two ways:

1. Oleechny... It provides for the use of roll materials.
2. Coating... This method uses polymer materials, as well as bitumen mastic.

External waterproofing is the application of a coating to a prepared surface, and then roll building material is placed on top in several layers. It should be noted: when groundwater is close enough to the foundation, then it is necessary additional protection for waterproofing in the form of brickwork.

Sometimes, instead of such masonry, profile membranes with a geotextile addition are used. This method reliably protects the walls from water. A special geotextile provides an empty space between the membrane spikes, which acts as a drainage channel.

Important! For reliability, external waterproofing should be done 30 cm above ground level. To improve drainage before pouring concrete mix it is advisable to put also a layer of clay.

External waterproofing can be installed with my own hands subject to the following order:

• on outer wall first, mastic is applied;
• roll material is laid on the mastic. You should not press hard on the roll when laying, the mastic will fix the material anyway. In order for the canvas to lie flat, it is necessary to roll it with a roller;
• then the next surface is treated with mastic and the next roll of material is applied. The overlap of the rolls should be about 10 cm, therefore, when applied to the wall roll material it is necessary to coat with a special adhesive mixture 15 cm from the edge;
• each applied web is rolled with a roller, including at the seams. The order in which the rolls are placed (starting from the bottom or from the top) does not matter;
• excess material at the joints can be removed with a knife.

Internal waterproofing is mainly made of special formulations which have a penetrating effect, which are best applied to fresh concrete. They protect well against moisture penetration: porous surface concrete, interacting with water, contribute to the formation of crystals that fill all microcracks.

Internal waterproofing can be done using polymer-cement mineral compounds that are applied to wood, concrete and ceramic surfaces. Such formulations are simply diluted with water, and they are ready for use.

But it is worth considering that such waterproofing is not too resistant to drops. temperature regime, therefore, it is still necessary to use elastic sealants here.

In private houses, you can do the internal waterproofing of the basement with your own hands. Before that, you need to drain the basement, and all walls and the floor must be well cleaned of dirt.

Then the following works are performed:

• all surfaces are treated with a waterproofing compound that protects against moisture;
• mastic is used to coat corners, seams and cracks, as well as all surfaces with a layer of 2-3 cm;
• a metal mesh is installed on the walls, as well as the floor;
• the floor is poured with concrete, and the walls are also coated with concrete;
• then the walls are plastered (about 3 cm thick).

When unwanted moisture has appeared in your basement, you should first quickly determine the source of its appearance and then take measures to eliminate excess liquid and prevent its appearance. If the drainage communications and waterproofing of the basement are timely and correctly arranged, then it will be dry in it even in the rainy periods.