The process of mechanical processing of wooden blanks is always accompanied by the release of dust or the scattering of shavings and sawdust. In modern power tools, it is possible to connect any collection and drainage equipment wood waste, but their purchase for household needs is not always justified. At the home level, a home-made device successfully copes with the problem of dust removal. Let's consider in detail the procedure for making a vacuum cleaner for a workshop.

Required materials and tools

The basis for the implementation of the project is an old household vacuum cleaner, from which the following components are used:
Engine part;
Power regulator;
Power supply wire;
Suction hose;
Nozzles.

For the homemade body, a polyethylene barrel with a capacity of 50-80 liters is selected, always with a fixed lid. You will also need:
A piece of plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
Plywood 5–10 mm thick;
Bolts and nuts M6 - 14 pieces each;
Galvanized sheet metal strip;
Air filter from a minibus;
Switch for 220 volts;
Threaded hairpin with washers and nuts;
Construction sealant;
Sandpaper;
Glue rods;
Drainage corrugated hose for washing machine;
Corrugation electrical installation PND 32.

Docking units are made of plastic tubes and fittings, selected depending on the size of the nozzles on the tools and the diameters of the vacuum cleaner intake hoses.
Glue gun;
Drill;
Locksmith keys;
Screwdrivers;
Nippers;
Electric jigsaw;
Sharp knife;
Files;
Sealant gun.

The process of making a vacuum cleaner for a workshop
Having retreated from the top of about 100 mm, a hole is marked on the wall of the barrel for the inlet pipe and drilled with a drill. Then they give a hole with a knife oval shape so that the inner end of the pipe is located close to the wall and is directed downward at a slight angle. Degrease the surfaces to be joined and, using glue gun, fix the nipple in place.

In the same "hot" way, an adapter for a suction hose is fixed on the outer part of the pipe.

Using a jigsaw, cut out two circles from plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than that of the barrel lid. In the blanks, first make two holes for the bolts and fix the parts with them on both sides of the cover. Next, the remaining holes are drilled, the circles are removed and the burrs are removed with a sandpaper. A sealant is applied around the perimeter of the blanks, the parts are placed on the lid and the fasteners are fully installed. In the center of the plywood circles, a hole is made for a hairpin, and a little to the side - for the air intake of the motor unit.

Remove from the air filter with nippers metal mesh otherwise it will become clogged with sawdust and interfere with cleaning the vacuum cleaner. One end of the cylinder is closed with a plywood plug.

The prepared filter element is fixed on the hairpin with a wing nut.

The motor part, as a rule, has round shapes... Therefore, for ease of installation, plastic parts are cut out from the body of the old vacuum cleaner, in which the engine was located. Thanks to them, only one clamp, made from a strip of tin, is required to secure the unit to the barrel lid.

A switch and power regulator are placed near the engine, placing the latter in a suitable box. It remains to connect the elements together with wires and connect the cable with a plug. After making sure that the connections are correct and that there are no exposed contacts, power is supplied and the operation of the device is checked.

The standard suction hose of a household vacuum cleaner is too short - it is extended with a corrugated wiring pipe or other similar product.

Manufacturing of nozzles and adapters

The cleanliness of the workshop begins with the workbench. For cleaning the workplace, a typical brush is used, which comes with a household appliance.

Connect the nozzle by means of a rubber adapter cut from a tube of the corresponding caliber, for example, from a branch pipe of a car cooling system.

One of the most wasteful power tools is the power planer. The bleed nipple of the tool is large enough, most likely, the vacuum cleaner hose will connect without problems.

The design does not provide for a filling sensor - at first you should look inside more often, not allowing the vacuum cleaner to overflow.

Cleanliness and order in a home workshop is the result of self-made work, achieved with a minimum of financial investment.

Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in a workshop, because one of the problems that you have to deal with in woodworking is dust removal. Industrial equipment quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it's completely easy.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed

In the workshop, there is almost always a need to clean up garbage of a fairly large fraction. Sawdust, small scraps, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is very likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind the debris different sizes... Spinning around in a circle, the garbage manages to stick together to such a consistency when it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through the cylindrical container at a sufficient speed.

Filters of this kind are included in the set of many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost cannot be called affordable for the layman. At the same time, the range of tasks solved using homemade devices, not at all already. A handicraft cyclone can be used in conjunction with planers, punchers or jigsaws, and to remove sawdust or shavings from different kinds machine tools. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of the dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference between wet and dry cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the tank does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust port. For this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the tank or tangentially to the walls. By the same principle, it is recommended to make the exhaust duct rotatable, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.

As already mentioned, the cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With the liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and the cyclone is partially rarefied, which contributes to the evaporation of moisture and its breakdown into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet must be placed as close to the surface of the water as possible, or even lowered under it.

Most washing vacuum cleaners air is fed into the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum amount of rework, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

We make from scrap materials

The most simple and affordable option for the container of the cyclone there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 watts.

The lid of the bucket must be intact and fit tightly on the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be finalized by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes required diameter- use homemade compasses... V wooden lath you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the lid, it is desirable that they be as far away from each other as possible. Both metal and plastic are perfectly scratched out with such a homemade tool, forming smooth edges with virtually no scoring.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. We draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners should correspond to the direction of the air flow. They are mounted in the housing cover as follows:

1. The knee is inserted all the way into the flare rim. A silicone sealant is preliminarily applied under the side.
2. WITH back side a rubber O-ring is pulled over the bell. To be sure, it can be additionally squeezed with a screw clamp.

The inlet branch pipe is located with a narrow turning part inside the bucket, the socket is located with outside almost flush with the lid. The knee should be provided with one more turn at 45º and directed obliquely downward and tangentially to the side of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with the expectation of wet cleaning, the extreme knee should be extended with a pipe cut, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust connection is in the reverse position and its mouth is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that the air intake takes place at the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Do not forget about the O-rings, for more reliable fixation and elimination of knee twisting, they can be wrapped with plumbing tape.

How to adapt the device for machine tools and tools

To be able to draw in waste when working with handheld and stationary tools, an adapter system is required. Typically, a hose for a vacuum cleaner ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. As a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers. double-sided tape for mirrors, wrapped with vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment, everything is more complicated. Dust collectors have a very different configuration, especially with homemade machines, so you can only give a few useful recommendations:

1. If the machine's dust extraction is designed for 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing transitions 50 mm in diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
2. It is convenient to use press fittings for HDPE pipes 50 mm for joining with a dust catcher of home-made machines.
3. When designing the hood and dust trap, use the convection flow created by the moving parts of the tool for greater efficiency. For example: a branch pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be tangent to the saw blade.
4. Sometimes it is required to provide dust extraction from different sides work piece, for example, for band saw or a router. Use 50mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually, a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone is not chosen independently, but the one that is available is used. However, there are a number of limitations in addition to the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum, you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the construction is that they ideally fit the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, a shorter length should be docked with the vacuum cleaner. Another, longer section, as it is, is fed into the flare of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or plumbing tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially with an O-ring.

The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop

To pull a short piece of hose over the exhaust pipe, the edge of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inward. If the straightened edge does not fit a little on the pipe, it is recommended to warm it up a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner... The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving stream.

This video of the "Lawyer Egorov" channel is about how to assemble a homemade full-fledged cyclone from a bucket and two corners of a fan pipe in five minutes. In other words, a separator for shavings, sawdust and other debris.

If a household vacuum cleaner was used in the workshop or during the renovation of an apartment, then its dust collector will quickly fill up and the work will have to be interrupted. But using the Cyclone, you can forget about replacing the dust bag for years. This separator serves the second year, and the author of the development is not overjoyed with it. In just two minutes, make sure that the title of this video is not exaggerated, and a full-fledged separator can be assembled in your garage in just a couple of minutes.

For greater ease of use in the Cyclone workshop, it can be installed on a home-made platform in the form of a trolley, the manufacture of which will take at least half an hour. But the separator can be used without it. In the case when it is connected to the chip outlet of a stationary cutter, planer saw and other equipment that produces sawdust, the cart is not needed at all. But it is very handy when cleaning the workshop. A bucket, two cut hoses and a vacuum cleaner will easily fit under any household machine... By the way, if you plan to do it yourself in a small home workshop unified system dust removal, perhaps, connecting such a separate chip suction to each machine will save you from unnecessary obvious engineering difficulties to solve.

From circular table equipped with Cyclone, sawdust almost does not fly out. It is recommended to power the tool and the connected chip suction through one toggle switch. Then, when you turn on the machine, the vacuum cleaner will immediately start working. When making my bow, I used a router, and the dust from it flew in all directions. For this reason, until I made my own Cyclone, I tried not to use the mill. Now there is less debris from the router. For a planer, a corner from a hose of a larger diameter is better.

By placing the camera inside a self-made working Cyclone, you can see how sawdust is sucked into the separator, but cannot escape from it and get into the vacuum cleaner. Separator idea cyclonic type in order to force the coarse-dispersed dust sucked into the container to fall to the bottom of the container, to prevent this dust from entering the zone from which air is pumped out. Gravity, friction and centrifugal force cause the sawdust to rotate inside the bucket, pressing against its walls, and spiraling down to the bottom of the container. As you can see, the idea of ​​a separator is extremely simple and there is simply nothing to break in this primitive design.

Everyone is used to the fact that such a container has the shape of a cone, but as practice has shown, the separator can also be cylindrical. The advantage of the proposed design is that the tangential air flow separator does not enter through a curved side wall, which is not easy at all, but through a flat lid. And this is much easier and faster to do. In addition, it reduces the dimensions of the structure. The entire structure of the Cyclone is placed on one lid, which allows the Cyclone to be carried by simply removing the lid from one bucket and covering it with another.

Unrivaled mobility. So you can consistently fill bucket after bucket with sawdust, and then get rid of the sawdust at once. For example, fill them in compost heap, be heated by them, loading them into the oven long burning, or use them in any other way.

How a homemade cyclone was made

He described his Cyclone in more than detail. It's time to show how he did it. So, I drilled two holes in the lid. One is in the center of the cover, the other is on the edge, close to the stiffener. This was done with a core drill of a slightly smaller diameter than the polypropylene corner of the fan pipe. In this design, I used corners with a diameter of forty millimeters. Remove burrs and at the same time bore holes for a snug fit of the corner, conveniently wrapping a sheet of skin around the tube. It is important to stop here in time. Do not over-bore the hole. It remains to insert two polypropylene corners into the hole, and a full-fledged Cyclone is ready. As you noticed, I didn't even seal the joints. I inserted hoses from the vacuum cleaner into the corners, fortunately, there are o-rings the size of the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner, and immediately began to use the separator. All operations did not take more than two minutes.

For the convenience of using the Cyclone and increasing its mobility, I assembled a T-shaped cart. I collected more than half an hour, but with repeated use, this work pays off. I collected the cart from the waste of crooked obsolete plywood. Marked the platform in place. I put a bucket and a vacuum cleaner on a sheet of plywood, marking the dimensions with a pencil.

The sawing table looks ugly, since it was collected from garbage on hastily and these are all temporary solutions. As parallel stop used piece square pipe and two clamps. But, despite the primitiveness of the design, you can work on this homemade product. Set the cutting depth according to the plywood thickness ...

Discussion

1. All vacuum cleaners (except for one type) have at least two significant drawbacks. First, they throw back into the room the finest (and most dangerous!) Dust (even water-based ones throw back into the room the finest dust along with the smallest drops of water). Second, when working, these emissions raise the dust in the room into the air. On the Internet, experts indicate that fine dust settles for many hours, and even days! And this fine dust is practically not excreted by the body.
   But there is a kind of vacuum cleaners that do not have these drawbacks - these are central (or-built-in) vacuum cleaners. These vacuum cleaners, sucking in air, do not supply it back into the room at all, and after cleaning, throw it out of the room (usually outside the building). This, the vacuum cleaner itself does not need to be carried, carried along, because. it is permanently installed in another (utility) room, and special sockets are installed in the processed rooms, which plastic pipes connected to the central vacuum cleaner, and already connected to these sockets flexible hose with a nozzle-attachment for collecting dust. I have a storage dust collector volume of 14 liters (a large, durable plastic "bucket"), and its cleaning consists in a very convenient detachment of this container and its emptying, usually once a month. Such vacuum cleaners have been used for a long time in hotels, child care facilities and hospitals. They are also certified for use in everyday life (I have been using this vacuum cleaner with pleasure in my country house for 4 years already).
2. I made an experience in the manufacture of such a cyclone. It turns out that not every bucket is suitable. First, the bucket must be deep enough. Top part about 15-20 cm high - this is the vortex zone. If a mountain of debris reaches it, then the debris will fly directly into the hood. So 12-liter paint buckets are of little use, they are corny half filled (and the shavings, for example, from under the planer are very voluminous) in a minute. Second, the bucket must be rigid. If the inlet pipe is plugged, then the vacuum will collapse the bucket, deforming its wall, and the vortex will no longer be cylindrical - the debris will again fly into the hood. I took two paint buckets, a little different diameters... I cut out the bottom of the larger one, leaving a narrow side - this turned out to be a stiffener. And inserted one into the other. The double wall and collar provide acceptable rigidity, and the total height gives more volume - the bottom bucket is completely filled. Third, the cover should be easily removable. The paint bucket has a self-sealing lid, and even its vacuum sucks. Then you have to pry on with a screwdriver - disassemble. You need to somehow loosen the lid or seat it is possible to cut off or bend off fragments of the sealing bead. Tightness will still be ensured by vacuum, the lid will suck very tightly.
3. I would like to see how this vacuum cleaner gets rid of fine construction dust and how long will it last? Another question?? Is it difficult to find such an empty iron bucket? let's say we don't have a single hardware store, and ask every friend if he has this)) well, on the tenth person who says that there is no such bucket! already the search turns into some kind of hassle. And without a real vacuum cleaner, this device will not work. In a word, the result is to find an unnecessary good vacuum cleaner that works more or less, then find an ill-fated iron bucket, hell knows where to buy two dignity of those pipes, put it all in a diplomat and throw it away! Because how to go and buy an industrial one for 6 rubles and not engage in amateur performances. I agree for sawdust this miracle cart will do!
4. Good video. Everything is shown clearly, without unnecessary long explanations. I am tormented with a home dry vacuum cleaner Stalt 1600W. As soon as I turn it on for cleaning, a cloud of fine dust flies out of it, then it already works normally. But it is not suitable for large-scale cleaning of a room, corridor or something else voluminous. His bag is instantly filled, the bag is not very convenient, because it clogs itself with dust, and knocking out and knocking out branches from it is an unpleasant process. I liked the bucket idea you have. I dreamed that there was water in the bucket at the bottom that would absorb the pollen. Isn't it dangerous to pour some water into it? Will the system close to itself?

From the very beginning of my work in the workshop, I faced the problem of removing dust after work. The only way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in the hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop exacerbated the problem. Some solution was spraying water before sweeping and using a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some part is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all the nooks and crannies can be crawled through with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust from there.

In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of work (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Third, the amount of dust far exceeding calculated values, will greatly affect the resource of the vacuum cleaner. You need something more specialized here.

There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in a workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found on thematic forums interesting solution- use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a conventional household vacuum cleaner. All of the above problems of household vacuum cleaners are solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to a standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some collect cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, the third - from plywood and everything that is enough for imagination. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.

The principle of operation is simple - the air flow is twisted in a conical filter housing and dust is removed from the air by centrifugal force. In this case, the dust crumbles through bottom hole into the container under the filter, and the cleaned air exits through the upper opening into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the most frequent problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called "roundabout". This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but swirl around inside the filter endlessly. This situation arises from too high a speed of the air flow generated by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. It is necessary to reduce the speed a little and the "carousel" will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the "carousel" into the container and takes its place. And in the second model of plastic cyclones this carousel practically does not exist. To eliminate air leakage, I missed the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.

I decided to take a larger container for collecting dust so that it was less often necessary to take out the garbage. I bought a barrel of 127 liters, produced, it seems, in Samara - the size is what you need! I am going to carry the barrel to the trash like a grandmother string bag - on another cart, so as not to overstrain.

Next is the choice of layout. Some people install the dust collector permanently and lead the ducts to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them into Right place... I wanted to make a mobile installation on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one block.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose an arrangement in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, taking up a minimum area. It was decided to cook the body of the installation from metal. Frame made of shaped pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

With a vertical arrangement, there is a possibility of overturning. To reduce this likelihood, you need to heavier the base as much as possible. For this, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The tangible weight of the trolley is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure is not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.

In order to achieve the verticality of the rods, it was necessary to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment, it was possible to achieve accurate setting of the corners.

It is convenient to move the trolley, holding on to the vertical rods, therefore, strengthened their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame with clamps.

In the upper part of the boom there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner. Further, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and wooden planks will be fixed with self-tapping screws.

That is, in fact, the whole frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Goggles and welded mask fog up quickly, impairing visibility, bulky outerwear constrains movement. But the task is completed. In addition, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.

I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at temperatures not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in frost, if only the paint was not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint is with a hardener, then do not steam at all.
I found an old, slightly thickened Hammerayt jar in the zagashniki, which I used to paint a horizontal bar in the summer cottage -. The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions... Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerayt added some regular degreaser to it to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began to paint.
In the summer, this paint dried in one hour. It is difficult to say how much it dried in winter, but when I returned to the workshop in the evening next day the paint has dried. True without the promised hammer effect. Probably, the degreaser is to blame, and not the negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it is not in vain that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is rather flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into the plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads can occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the fastening of the filter to the barrel must be strengthened. The people have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, they assemble an additional stiffening frame for the filter. The designs are very diverse, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this in a slightly different way. A holder for pipes of a suitable diameter was welded onto one of the rods.

In this holder, I clamp the hose, which is responsible for all the twisting and pulling. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any stress. Now the unit can be pulled straight behind the hose without fear of damage.

I decided to fix the barrel with lashing straps. When I was choosing locks in a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter lashing strap with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and a naked frog-type lock lying next to it Russian production would cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technologies lies.

Experience has shown that this mounting method has an important advantage. The fact is that on the forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels, like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole of the hose and the barrel shrank under the influence of the vacuum. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, the barrel did not shrink completely, but only in one place below the hoop there was a dent. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent itself straightened with a click.

In the upper part of the unit there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

As a household vacuum cleaner, I acquired a bagless, almost two kilowatt monster. I was just thinking, and at home this would be useful to me.
Buying a vacuum cleaner on the ad ran into some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. The people sell used things without a guarantee, with a depleted part of the resource, shortcomings in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, it would be some kind of common things, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the term of placing ads, this trade sometimes drags on for years. And one has only to start bargaining and call an adequate price, as you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days, I still found a great option for myself for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 watts, built-in cyclone filter (already the second in my system) and another fine filter.
I couldn’t think of anything more elegant to fasten it than to press it down with a lashing strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to be a little clever with the connection of the hoses. As a result, we have such an installation. And it works!

Usually, when you read reviews from the first use of such gizmos, people are choking with delight. Here is something similar and I experienced it when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone walks in street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it lead only to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me for a couple of light movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

It was possible to collect in the barrel what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom. During the operation of the device, due to the translucency of the filter, it is possible to observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was an insignificant amount of it and these were especially light and volatile fractions.

I am very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You can say I'm moving into new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Takes up the minimum area, due only to the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be dragged and pulled by the hose without fear of pulling out the filter.
3. The drum is protected from crushing when the inlet is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still faced the problem of lack of barrel rigidity.
I got a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but sucks like a beast - sucks stones, nuts, screws, tears off the plaster and pulls out bricks from the masonry))
This vacuum cleaner slammed the blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! The tight girth of the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have a camera with me, it's a pity. But it looks like this:

On the thematic forums, they warn about such a possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, pretty crumpled, to the dacha to store the water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy instead plastic barrel metal. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my setup - diameter 480, height 800. A surface search on the Internet did not give any result.
2. Self-assembly a box of the required size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.

The box was assembled on self-tapping screws. Sealed the joints with double-sided tape on a foam basis.

The cart had to be altered a little - to digest the rear clamp for a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows a waste bag to be placed in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it an order of magnitude cleaner (tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). Old barrel did not allow it.

The cover was sealed with foamed insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary interference to seal the lid on the foam gasket. A little higher, I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out.

It turned out well. Nice, functional, reliable. How I love.

A special vacuum cleaner is different from a regular one. If the latter is applicable for a small amount of small debris, then a special model is intended for collection, for example, in home workshops. However, it is expensive. And why pay the necessary money if you can make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands? Why exactly a cyclone and what is it? it important element, with the help of which the capacity of the garbage vacuum cleaner increases, which means that it brings more benefits. If you need it, we have already prepared detailed instructions.

Features and Benefits

The purchase of a vacuum cleaner should be approached with all seriousness, because a low-power device can create many problems and will not allow you to achieve the cleanliness you are striving for. Listen to the advice of a sales assistant, which will not only save you money, but also make a rational choice.

It is best to stay with models with cyclone filter, the power of which is about 1800 watts. Fortunately, today many manufacturers produce such models, so the choice is easy to make.

The principle of operation of the cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner

The advantages of cyclone dust collectors include:

• transparency. You can always see if a random object gets inside;
• high power. Due to the maximum possible power, there is no need to slow down even with a fully loaded container;
• due to its low weight, such a device can significantly save storage space;
• no need to spend money on paper bags for a vacuum cleaner;
• when filled, the vacuum cleaner does not lose its power in operation;
• such a vacuum cleaner is easy to clean and dry;
• it is easy to do it yourself, since everything you need can be found in your home. To make a cyclonic vacuum cleaner, you can use any engine - from the old washing machine or a broken vacuum cleaner.

disadvantages

There are a number of disadvantages to keep in mind when choosing a cyclone vacuum cleaner. These include:

• the centrifuge of this model does not retain the smallest dust, therefore it is better for allergy sufferers to refuse to work with such a device;
• during operation, the vacuum cleaner emits a loud, shrill sound;
• an uncomfortable hose that, due to frequent entanglement, can break at any time;
• due to frequent clogging of the filter, the suction capacity of the vacuum cleaner is sharply reduced.

Cyclonic vacuum cleaner

Specifications

Cyclone vacuum cleaners have a number of important characteristics, depending on which the models differ from each other:

• container volume. There is no point in purchasing a vacuum cleaner with a flask volume of less than one and a half liters, given the garbage that this device has to collect. In addition, it should be checked to make it as easy as possible to clean the vacuum cleaner after work;
• suction power. The quality of cleaning depends on it, but this indicator should not be confused with the power consumption;
• filtration system. It depends on how clean the outgoing air will be, which is especially important for allergy sufferers. Most modern models at the outlet, HEPA filters are installed, capable of stopping the release of even the smallest dust particles. Remember, not all filters are washable;
• the convenience of the hose design. When purchasing a vacuum cleaner, check the maximum length of the telescopic tube to assess if it is long enough. For high-quality units, all joints are tightly fixed, but at the same time they are easily disconnected if necessary;
• placement of buttons for control. They can be on the body or on the handle;
• length of the cord for connecting to the network. The optimal length, which is sufficient for the full use of the vacuum cleaner, can be from 8 to 10 meters;
• equipment. TO a good vacuum cleaner should be attached maximum amount nozzles.

Industrial vacuum cleaners cyclone system

In the woodworking industry, production, places where there is a large accumulation of dust, you cannot do without a cyclone vacuum cleaner. Due to the constant suction power of the debris, increased efficiency such a device guarantees quick and, most importantly, high-quality cleaning of a room of any size. Taking into account the characteristics, industrial models of cyclone vacuum cleaners are divided into:

• vacuum cleaners collecting low-hazard debris and dust;
• for waste of medium and high hazard, which can be attributed concrete dust, asbestos, carcinogens;
• for explosive dust. Often used in elevators.

Cyclonic industrial vacuum cleaner

Principle of operation

Before you start making such an important mechanism, you should understand its principle of operation. So, a cyclone is a filter, in other words, a cyclone filter for a workshop. In fact, this is a miracle, since it significantly simplifies the work of the masters, more precisely, their cleaning for the fruits of their creativity.

How a cyclone vacuum cleaner works

The work is based on the fact that all dust and sawdust does not reach the vacuum cleaner itself, the power does not decrease, and unnecessary debris does not get into ordinary filters, which clogs them. The tube draws in air, its flow is twisted in a spiral. Weighty dust, such as sawdust, penetrates into the narrow passage of the cone, and the air flow or suspended matter is directed into the vacuum cleaner.

Such a cyclone is not difficult to make, you just need to have necessary materials and know how to use them. There are several options for how to do this.

First option

Necessary materials	Stages of work	Supplements
· oil type filter (filters small fingers); the bucket, to which the lid fits snugly, is the main container; polypropylene elbows (they must be intended for water supply, have a straight angle and forty five degrees, the diameter of one piece is 40 millimeters; plumbing pipe made of plastic, meter, with a diameter of 40 mm; corrugated pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 2 meters	cut a hole in the center of the bucket lid; seal the resulting cracks with sealant; cut a hole in the side wall of the bucket; insert a corner of 45 degrees into it; the corrugation with the elbow is connected with a part of the pipe; nylon material can be put on the filter, this will extend its service; the filter outlet connects to the elbow in the lid	If you cannot put the filter on the pipe, you need to make an adapter. A rubber hose can protrude from it. All connections should be coated with sealant. When the inlet is closed, the bucket may crack. In this regard, it is necessary to strengthen its walls or install a valve, the main thing is to make the correct measurements.

Oil filter

Cyclone exit

Entrance assembly

Second option

Another option is based on the use of a road cone, the height of which is 520 millimeters. It is made of non-rigid plastic. So, in the design you need:

• conical shape;
• twenty-liter container and a well-closing lid;
• a pair of plumbing pipes forty millimeter in diameter;
• corner adapter;
• sixteen mm plywood made of wood.

Essentially, creation is similar to the above example. Just a few additions - a pair of identical circular shapes should be cut out onto the flask lid and glue them. This will keep the cone firmly in place. The joints must be seated with thermal glue, pistols can be used. The last part of the vertical pipe must be lowered below the horizontal, which will create a vortex movement of the debris particles precisely along the cone, after which they will fall into the flask.

The nuances of making your own hands

Although it will not be difficult to make a cyclonic vacuum cleaner on your own, you should take into account some of the nuances that can affect quality work apparatus in the future. Here are some tips:

• Refuse to install a HEPA filter, since the suction force will constantly decrease, and the cleaning quality will deteriorate due to the failure of the smallest particles to come to the surface. Be prepared immediately that without such a filter, an unpleasant odor will occur when the vacuum cleaner is operating;
• to optimize the operation of the vacuum cleaner will allow the connection of two hoses - for suction and for blowing;
• choose a motor with more than 6 thousand revolutions. As a motor, you can use a part from an old vacuum cleaner or a refrigerator compressor;
• in order to avoid malfunctions, be sure to install a fan on the vacuum cleaner and monitor the tightness of the container;
• if necessary, the device can be equipped with a water tank.

It's so easy to make a cyclone, the main thing is to observe the proportions, and also tune in to the fact that everything will definitely work out!

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