This section presents theoretical materials on the technology of textile production.

Preparatory production. Processing fibers to yarn
Fiber comes to preparatory production in pressed bales. Before yarn is obtained from the fiber, the fiber itself undergoes additional processing - the bale is loosened, the fibers are subjected to scutching, combing, roving is obtained on roving machines, and yarn is obtained from the roving. Pneumo-mechanical spinning machines make it possible to obtain yarn directly from tapes, bypassing the roving transition.


The main goal of the spinning process is to obtain a textile thread (yarn) from a disparate mass of cotton fibers. At the same time, the yarn must comply with certain physical and mechanical properties and meet the necessary quality standards. Depending on the purpose of the yarn, there are also different ways of obtaining it, different spinning systems - carded, combed, hardware, melange.


Basic concepts about the process and technology of weaving. The theory and practice of fabric formation on a loom - a technological scheme of weaving production from yarn production to finishing of finished fabrics, requirements for processes.


Technological scheme of the process of rewinding the main yarn, the purpose and essence of rewinding. Winding machines and automatic winding machines: their classification, main working bodies, technological and kinematic schemes. Performance of yarn rewinding equipment. Machine maintenance.


Technological scheme of the warping process of the main yarn, the purpose and essence of warping. Common warping methods and equipment: batch warping machine, flying warping machine. Process requirements. Equipment performance and maintenance.


Technological scheme of the sizing process of the main yarn, the purpose and essence of sizing. Materials for the preparation of adhesive composition - dressings. The device of grinding machines and glue machines. Process requirements. Equipment performance and maintenance. The main parameters of sizing are drawing, gluing.


Methods and types of punching the base, punching machines. Warp tying technology: stationary and mobile knotting machines, their productivity. Defects and waste of yarn when tying the main threads. Reloading of the main threads on the machines due to the change in the range of products.


Rewinding of weft yarn, its moistening and rewetting. Weft winding machines, their technological and kinematic schemes, productivity. Burnouts and defects when rewinding the weft. Improving the physical and mechanical properties of weft yarn prior to its use in weaving.


Bodies and mechanisms of looms, their classification. The essence of the process of obtaining fabric on a loom, by means of mutual interlacing of longitudinal (warp) and transverse (weft) threads. Ways of laying the weft thread in the shed formed by the warp threads.


Clothing industry. Requirements for the range of clothing and fabrics in the clothing industry. The main assortment of garments is Russian enterprises. Sewing accessories. The use of garments in the textile industry.

The choice of a method for shaping a suit largely depends on the type of material and its fibrous composition. Currently, many modern materials have been developed that allow you to create a complex shape and various effects. The expansion of the range and the increase in the production of textile fibers are carried out in several directions:

improving the properties of fibers for a wide range of applications due to their modification - increasing comfort and mechanical properties;

creation of superfibers with special properties for a narrower purpose (superstrong, superelastic, ultrathin, etc.);

creation of interactive fibers that actively "respond" to changing external conditions (heat, lighting, mechanical impact, etc.);

development of new technologies for the production of synthetic fibers from renewable (natural) raw materials in order to reduce dependence on declining oil and gas reserves;

the use of biotechnologies for the synthesis of new types of fiber-forming polymers and the improvement of the quality of natural fibers.

A widely used method aimed at changing and improving the properties of fibers is their modification. There are various ways to physically and chemically modify fibers. One of the directions of physical (structural) modification of fibers is the profiling of fibers is achieved by using spinnerets with holes of various shapes during their formation: a triangle, a trefoil, a multi-beam sprocket, a double rhombus, slits of various configurations, etc. This method of modifying the surface of the fibers imparts roughness and increased tenacity. Due to this, threads and materials from such fibers acquire increased volume and porosity.

Methods for obtaining multilayer fibers (up to 100 film layers) have been developed in the USA and Japan. Such fibers are able to change brilliance and color hues and saturation when changing lighting or angle of view, and even have a holographic effect.

Segment-type bicomponent fibers made of non-shrinkable polymers after heat treatment acquire a stable crimp, reaching 100%. Combined fibers can be obtained by depositing various polymers from solutions or melts on the finished fiber (substrate), forming a "shirt" of any thickness on its surface. In particular, fusible layers of a binder polymer used to produce nonwoven materials are deposited on the surface of cellulose and chemical fibers.

In recent decades, one of the main directions for improving and improving the quality of chemical fibers has been the creation of ultra-fine fibers [Buzov, Alymenko-va, 2004], which make it possible to create a certain texture (surface) of the material: the “peach skin” effect, suede-like surface, velvety, soft silky surface , approaching the carcass of natural silk. Fibers and materials that are “pleasant”, pleasant for all senses in foreign special literature are called “high-touch”.

test questions

1. Definition of the term "suit tectonics".

2. Types of tectonic systems of the suit.

3. Distinctive features of the tectonic systems of the suit.

4. Ways of shaping the shell systems of the suit.

5. Examples of frame systems in a suit.

6. The system of connections between the elements of the costume form.

7. Factors affecting the ability of fabrics to form.

8. Methods for the formation and fixation of the shape of clothing details.

9. Ways to expand the range of textile fibers.

10. New textile fibers and materials.

Ministry of Education and Science of Russia

Federal Agency for Education

Kostroma State Technological University

COURSE WORK

Technology of textile production

Student: Bugrova E.V.

Group: 08-E-4

Scientific adviser: prof. Krotov V.N.

Kostroma 2010

Introduction

1. Selection and justification of the scheme of the production process for obtaining yarn

2. Equipment characteristics

Flax machine Ch-302-L

Automatic spreading machine AR-500-L

Tape distillation machine LP-500-L

Tape machine LCH-2-L1

Tape machine LCH-5-L1

Dry spinning machine PS-100-L1

3. Drawing up an approximate coordination table

4. Calculation of the updated coordination table.

5. Calculation of equipment performance.

6. Calculation of the output of semi-finished products and yarn. Calculation of the coefficient of operating equipment (KRO) and the coefficient of coordination

7. Coordination of equipment between workshops. Calculation of the capacity of the site

8. Calculation of the main technical and economic indicators of the site

Bibliography.

Introduction

The textile industry is one of the most important industries. It is this branch of the economy that produces the basic necessities for the population - fabrics, knitwear and those woven materials that are mainly used for the production of clothing and meet the needs of other industries in textile materials used for technical purposes.

If the total volume of production in 1989 was 40.3 billion m 2 of fabric, then at the present time the volume of production compared to 1990 has decreased eight times, the number of production personnel has decreased three times. This led to a significant decline in labor productivity and an equally significant decline in production.

By 1996, there was a five-fold decrease in the production of all tissues, over the next three years - stabilization at this low level, some growth until 2001 and stabilization of tissue production until 2004 at a level of about 33-35% of the 1990 level.

In 2004, Russia produced 2 billion square meters. m of fabrics of all kinds. Moreover, the leading industry in terms of fabric production, as in years, is cotton (87%), linen fabrics account for only 6%. In general, the production of fabrics in Russia in 2004 fell by 4.5% compared to 2003.

Today, the industry employs about 3,000 medium and large joint-stock companies, of which almost only a few have switched to organizational schemes that are effective in market economic conditions. Basically, these are large factories with a fleet of 1000 machines or more and are not able to quickly respond to market demands. The narrow specification of factories by type of product and type of fiber does not allow them to successfully adapt to trends in demand and fashion. According to an experimental assessment, up to 90% of textile enterprises have the potential to increase work efficiency by 20-25%% by changing the enterprise management system, creating an effective financial and economic system and retraining management personnel.

The common problem of the vast majority of enterprises is the low competitiveness of their products due to their high cost. At the same time, without solving this problem, our textile industry has no prospects. Therefore, the strategic direction of the development of the industry now seems to be its technological modernization.

The low rate of equipping factories with modern equipment shows that domestic financial and industrial companies do not have sufficient resources to re-equip factories at an accelerated pace, and the Russian government does not consider the textile industry to be a priority sector that it intends to finance. But this level of development of the textile industry will not allow, without extensive technical re-equipment of factories, to continue to develop competitive products in an open market.

Russia's foreign trade in linen fabrics as a whole is characterized by a slow growth rate of exports and a decrease in imports. Thus, in 2004, imports exceeded exports by 22%. The export of linen fabrics exceeds their import in value by almost five times.

The state of the textile industry in 2004 is as follows:

The level and condition of the equipment, with a few exceptions, remain at a low level. Over the past years, the equipment of Russian factories, mostly outdated before, has aged another 15 years;

The range and quality of fabrics have partially changed for the better, because. factories have to sell fabrics in competition with imports. However, there remains a need for further improvement;

The use of information technology for production and process control in advanced factories has improved markedly, along with improved computerization throughout the country;

The structure of giant factories is improving, they are being disaggregated, which makes it possible to improve product quality and reduce production costs;

The structure of manufactured products began to improve;

The narrow specialization of factories in terms of fibers and groups of fabrics has been eroded in recent years. Factories are equipped with sewing shops. This allows them to better adapt to market demands;

The use of synthetic fibers is increasing as needed and wherever possible, as a free market for synthetic fibers and threads has emerged.

According to the World Economic Forum in the period from 1999 to 2003. Russia ranked 59th to 65th out of 80 countries evaluated.

Thus, the investment climate existing in Russia cannot be called favorable. it does not guarantee investors equal opportunities for healthy competition with the goods of foreign firms.

The possibility of the textile industry getting out of its current state, first of all, depends on the accelerated improvement of the legal and economic conditions for its functioning.

1. Selection and justification of the scheme of the production process for obtaining yarn

Warehouse of raw materials and preparation of ragged flax for combing.

In the warehouse of raw materials, ragged flax is prepared for combing. In the process of combing ragged flax, two types of flax fiber are obtained: combed flax and tow. Combed flax is 2-3 times more expensive than combed flax, so from the very first stages of processing, it is necessary to carefully monitor the output of combed flax.

Worn flax in the form of densely pressed bales to the factory. Each bale consists of packs of handfuls of tattered flax. Inside the bale there may be handfuls of tattered flax, differing in color and even in number. Therefore, the preparation of ragged flax begins with careful sorting.

Careful sorting of ragged flax.

It is better to carry out it in a raw material warehouse, preparing large batches of fiber of the same properties.

emulsification.

Application of liquid fat emulsions to the fiber (performed manually). The composition of emulsions includes: water (80-85%), mineral oil, soda, kerosene. Emulsification gives the fiber softness, flexibility, elasticity. This increases the humidity, which reduces the emission of dust and reduces the electrification of the fiber.

Bedtime.

The process of aging the fiber in storage for 24 hours. During this time, the fiber is evenly impregnated with the emulsion, and the previously accumulated mechanical stresses and electrostatic charges are removed from it. The duration of the stay must be monitored. If the spinning process is less, the spinning process will go worse, while the fiber is rotting.

Division into handfuls.

To optimize the carding process, each handful of fiber must have a certain weight. The higher the fiber number, the larger the handful should be. Usually the mass of a handful is p = 110-130 g.

Frame, or trim.

This is a manual operation. It is carried out on hand combs and only for high numbers of ragged flax (the efficiency increases, the percentage of combed flax increases).

From the warehouse of raw materials, handfuls of ragged flax go to the flax machine Ch-302-L.

2. Equipment characteristics

Flax machine Ch-302-L

Purpose: Serves for scratching handfuls of ragged flax.

Processes:

1. Straightening and parallelization of a long fiber.

2. Crushing of thick technical fibers into thinner ones (in the longitudinal direction).

3. Cleaning the fiber from fire, dust and very short non-spun fibers.

4. Careful sorting of the fibers into long, thin, strong (combed linen) and short, tangled, weaker fibers (tow).

Advantages of flax machine Ch-302-L:

1. It turns out high quality combed linen.

2. Relatively high level of automation (mechanical automation).

Machine disadvantages:

1. The output of combed flax is small.

2. Low performance.

3. Large overall dimensions.

4. Manual monotonous work.

5. Not very favorable working conditions.

General technical characteristics of Ch-302-L

Number of working transitions 16

Number of ridges around the circumference of the blade 24

Length, mm

comb 305

pads 302

combed sheets around the perimeter 1625

Comb height (needle length), mm 28

Number of pads on the machine 55

The speed of the combed cloths, m/min 13.2-25

Carriage lifting height, mm 500-700

Frequency of carriage lifts per minute 8-10

Machine weight, kg 18900

Overall dimensions, mm

width 4300

height 3230

The Ch-302-L flax comber is aggregated with the AR-500-L automatic spreader.

The first place in terms of demand for products has always been and will be the food market. This is not surprising, because it is here that goods that are included in the category of vital for every person are sold and bought.

It is followed by the textile industry. Surprisingly, in this segment, high demand for products is combined with insufficient supply from domestic producers. The share of goods produced by factories and plants in our country is only one fifth of the entire market.

The rest is occupied by imported goods, imported both legally and counterfeited. Of course, this state of affairs has the most negative impact on both Russian manufacturers themselves and the country's economy as a whole. There is another problem - the production of textiles at domestic enterprises is often frozen for long periods due to the high cost of raw materials, interruptions in supplies and the need to modernize equipment.

State participation in the development of the industry

The situation must change radically, and the government is already beginning to take steps to improve it. In particular, a strategy has been adopted aimed at developing light industry in our country until 2020.

In turn, the state has seriously taken up the problem of domestic production: enterprises are supported both in the field of financing and subsidizing the purchase of raw materials, and in the issue of technical modernization of production. This allows us to think that changes are inevitable, and small improvements can already be seen today, in 2014.

Textile industry in Russia: current state

Today the situation is such that the share of imported products in the textile market in Russia still prevails. However, compared with the past decade, significant changes in the direction of its reduction are noticeable. Over the past 10-12 years, the Russian light industry has grown at a record pace, and at the moment, domestic textile production is estimated at about 70-85 billion rubles.

The industry employs about 700 large and up to 5 thousand medium and small enterprises, the total volume of production of which is about 200 billion rubles. At the same time, this segment is still underestimated by Russian investors, which means it's time to enter the market.

An average textile enterprise is now 20-30% cheaper than a food enterprise with the same level of profitability. Those entrepreneurs and investors who today pay attention to this line of business, in a few years will be able to reap a good "harvest" with the right approach to business. We will talk further about how to competently organize the production of textiles in our country.

The main questions on the organization of textile production

Of course, it is too early to say that today this is the most profitable business in Russia. However, there is no doubt that the return on such production can be quite high, and in the long run. This direction is suitable for strategic investors and entrepreneurs looking to the future.

Therefore, today it is important to approach the issue of organizing textile production from a completely new position, relying on innovation and relevance. What points should be considered when creating your own enterprise from scratch? The key factors are:

1. Organization of the design department. In the modern world, the work of these specialists is indispensable. One of the main conditions for high demand for your company's products will be the relevance and originality of fabric design. Moreover, the development of new textile collections should be carried out regularly, and not one-time. Therefore, the plant/factory must necessarily have its own department with a group of designers working together and under the direction of its owner.
2. Organization of direct production. This issue requires no less attention. Where and by whom fabrics will be made depends on the availability of sufficient investment. So, some entrepreneurs create their own production shop from scratch, others place orders for finished designs between home workers. In addition, many fabric manufacturers in Russia place their production in Chinese factories (due to the availability of cheap labor and good technical equipment).
3. To organize your own textile production, you need to obtain an appropriate certificate for your products, think over and plan the technology for manufacturing fabrics, purchase modern equipment and hire staff (from cutters and seamstresses to an accountant).
4. For the sale of products, it will be necessary to think over its transportation. If the enterprise is large, then you will need your own fleet. Small factories/shops for the production of textiles use the services of third-party companies.
5. Like any commercial activity, the textile business requires advertising. There should be several effective channels: your own website on the Internet, advertising blocks in specialized magazines, your own booklets with fabric samples. A good (and even obligatory) addition will be participation in exhibitions organized for representatives of this market segment. This will allow you to make useful contacts in your field, expand dealer and retail networks for more efficient product sales.

All these points are important and, moreover, obligatory steps in building a truly successful textile production in modern Russia. None of them can be neglected if you really want to organize a highly profitable business that can not only survive, but also function effectively for a long time.

Textile production technology and types of fabrics

Above, we examined the main issues that are important for every entrepreneur who decides to engage in the textile business in Russia. Now let's dwell in more detail on the actual manufacture of fabrics. This process includes the choice of assortment, the production technology itself and the necessary equipment for its implementation.

Types of fabrics and their features

All existing textiles are divided into large and smaller types. In general, fabrics can be divided into natural and chemical. The former can be of plant origin - cotton, linen, jute, etc., and animal - silk, wool, etc. The latter are divided into synthetic, artificial and mineral.

Natural fabrics of plant origin

Cotton fabrics are made from a mixture of cotton and other fibers. This category is very common and has the highest demand in the segment of natural materials. They differ depending on the density and type. This is the well-known denim, coarse calico, chintz, cloth, batiste and others. Linen fiber is less elastic than cotton. Fabrics made from it have a rough surface and a more rigid structure, and their production is more expensive.

Textiles of animal origin

The basis of silk production is the silkworm. This type of textile is characterized by elasticity and strength, and therefore is in great demand in production. It is used to obtain materials such as velvet, satin, etc. Russian manufacturers, as a rule, take sheep's wool for the manufacture of woolen fabrics. It retains heat well, does not absorb odors and moisture, does not wrinkle well.

chemical fabrics

Man-made fibers are also widely used in the modern textile industry. Viscose and acetate fabrics are light and smooth, have an attractive appearance and good hygienic properties. Polyamide materials are durable, wear-resistant, but they absorb fat and repel moisture, and therefore are unhygienic. Polyester is in great demand, as it is used for the production of clothing.

Textile production technology

The key point that determines the entire production of textiles and the organization of its individual processes is the fabric manufacturing stage itself. It consists of several basic steps, which we will now look at:

1. Training. Obtaining yarn from fibers by processing them - loosening, scutching, combing.
2. Spinning of hard fiber. A textile thread is obtained from disparate cotton fibers.
3. Direct production of fabric on looms.
4. Final finishing procedure. As a result of this stage, the fabric acquires such properties as strength, softness, smoothness, waterproofness and others.

This is a general description, and each of the above steps has its own nuances.

Necessary equipment

At the same time, a large number of various equipment is involved in the fabric manufacturing process at all steps. From the mandatory for the organization of a full-fledged production process, we can distinguish:

• roving machine;
• loom;
• weft winding machine;
• winding machines and automatic machines;
• warping machine;
• grinding machines;
• glue cookers;
• punching machines;
• knotting machines.

As you can see, the list of equipment is impressive. Therefore, a fully functioning textile production requires a large area, several warehouses (for raw materials and finished products), as well as a sufficient number of employees to service it and organize effective management.

Conclusion

To date, the textile market is developing at a fairly good pace - at least 25% per year. This niche still needs competent entrepreneurs and large investments to organize modern equipment and the same approach to the implementation of production.

Textile manufacturing is a very profitable business in Russia and will continue to be so for the next 7-10 years, and possibly longer. If you have not decided on the segment of capital investment and business organization, then now is the time to enter the textile market.