It is advisable that the installation of OSB on the walls is carried out by specialists. OSB (oriented strand board) is a material that has gained popularity in the field of construction and home decoration. It has a large number of advantages that allow it to be used in exterior decoration dwellings, in the cladding of internal walls and the construction of partitions in the process of redevelopment. In view of the increasing demand for this material, it is worth considering what are advantages of OSB plates and where they are used, as well as what finishing methods exist for this material.

Advantages and disadvantages of OSB boards

According to builders, wall decoration with OSB plates has a number of advantages:

1. Compared to other materials that are sold in sheets, OSB walls are relatively inexpensive.
2. The manufacturing method assumes resistance to damage, which ensures a minimum of defects during production, transportation and after installation.
3. They are lightweight, so the installation of the slabs on the walls does not carry a large load on the supporting structures. Also, due to their lightness, these plates are easy to carry from place to place and install by hand.
4. These slabs look attractive on their own. There are several options for additional decorative finishes.
5. This material is resistant to moisture, decay, fungal infection and is of little interest to insects.
6. The structural strength of the slabs does not interfere with drilling or other processing.

All these properties make the material suitable for external and internal works... However, when choosing, you should pay attention to the reputation of the manufacturer. Some firms, for the sake of economy, do not comply with technologies, so their products are of poor quality from an environmental point of view. Such plates can emit harmful substances. Any OSB products do not allow moisture and steam to pass through, therefore, in rooms with such a finish, you should take care of decent ventilation.

Areas of use

There are two main ways of working with OSB plates. First, it is a rough sheathing of the main wall, inside or outside. This option allows you to reduce the number of joints, level the wall and make it more durable. To achieve these results, it is worth considering a number of points:

1. The material is fastened every 30 cm in the intermediate sections and twice as often at the joints.
2. The outer edges are attached to the wall every 10 cm at a distance of at least 10 cm from the end of the sheet.
3. For ventilation, gaps are left between them, which are then filled with sealant. This is one of the main ways to provide ventilation for exterior walls.
4. When decorating a wall from OSB boards, you should take care of protection from wind and excessive moisture. Taking into account the peculiarities of the material for working outside, it is worth using a superdiffusion membrane; foil-clad polyethylene is useful for finishing inside.

Other nuances in the question of how to sheathe a wall with OSB plates are discussed in the following video:

Secondly, to change the layout of the rooms, you can use the OSB. For this, installation on wooden or metal profiles is used. Drywall is fixed in a similar way. The difference between OSB partitions is the resistance of this material to deformation, therefore, such interior elements do not bend under their own weight and are more reliably protected from cracks and other damage.

Since wood chip fragments are included in the basis of the material, in the manufacture of OSB boards they are covered with a special composition. It contains resins, wax or paraffin. It not only has a bonding effect, but also gives the surface evenness and smoothness, therefore, additional decoration of the OSB walls is associated with additional difficulties. First, the outer layer does not have adhesion properties. Secondly, some components contain grease and other substances that can seep through external finishing work and spoil the final look, so you should consider options for decorative material processing before finishing the OSB walls inside the house.

Finishing with paint or varnish

Painting or varnishing the walls is one of the budgetary ways to decorate the walls of rooms. But in order for the layers to lay down evenly, and in the future there are no unpleasant surprises, it is worth considering a number of points.

First, you need to inspect all the attachment points of the plates for not fully hammered nails or twisted screws. Such minor imperfections can lead to the appearance of rust stains through the paint. In the case of nails, it is worth using a doboiner, since when working with a hammer, not only will there not be a sufficient result, but the wall cladding will also suffer.

If it is planned that interior walls will be painted, it is worth using acrylic sealant to process the joints, since on silicone look paint does not adhere well enough.

The obligatory stage of work is the surface. It will provide the material with great adhesion properties. In addition, the layer will lay on the prepared surface more evenly and give an appropriate effect. After the first coat of primer, pay attention to the condition of the pile. After such processing, it can rise, and the wall will lose its evenness.

To correct this deficiency, the surface must be sanded and another coat of primer must be applied. After that, you can finish the walls of the room with varnish or paint. Depending on the humidity of the room, you can use the option on alkyd or acrylic. In some cases, water-based paint is also suitable. Some builders recommend acrylic varnish for walls.

For reliability and aesthetic beauty, it is recommended to apply the coating in 2-3 layers.

Preparation of OSB walls for wallpapering

Wallpaper is considered the most popular option for wall decoration, so they are used in rooms with walls finished with OSB slabs. Sometimes such a need arises in the process of redeveloping a space. So, before making a partition, you should make sure that it is in harmony with the rest of the interior.

Can be used if there is a need for the finished wall to become versatile for any kind of application decorative coating... With this version of wall processing, it is worth paying attention to some features:

1. The putty is applied to a clean surface. The presence of dust, dirt or traces of other building materials on the wall can adversely affect the quality of the coating, therefore, it is worthwhile to thoroughly wash the wall before applying the putty composition.
2. It is worth paying attention that the heads of the nails and screws are recessed as deeply as possible, and upper layer better to remove with sandpaper. The surface for the putty should be slightly rough.
3. It is better to process the joints between the slabs with a nitro-filler. This will ensure evenness and strength. Alternatively, you can use a putty for bodywork, since its properties are designed for a moving object. In this regard, the composition has not only lightness, but also great connecting properties, and on the wall it does not collapse for a long time. After the completion of the preparatory work, a layer of putty is applied.
4. After applying the composition, you can start priming the surface.

This option is convenient because now any decorative material can be used on top of the primer layer without regard to the features of OSB boards.

OSB slabs are a versatile material for cladding the walls of a house or decorating rooms inside it. This raw material is used both for strengthening walls and creating partitions. It is strong enough, lightweight and resistant to mechanical stress, moisture, fungus and insects.

In order for this coating to last as long as possible, it is worth considering several factors before fixing the OSB. This is especially true of the distance between nails and screws, as well as the location of the joints. The appearance allows the use of OSB boards without any decorative processing. However, they can be putty, painted, varnished or prepared under wallpaper. Subject to technology, the result will be smooth walls, which will be the basis for any interior and will delight their owner for many years.

OSB board is a modern building material, which, in terms of its characteristics, has successfully replaced chipboard and plywood. These are used in the construction of frame houses and for insulation. They also use these products for arranging rough coatings. An OSB floor is an excellent opportunity to level it inexpensively and with minimal effort concrete screed or

What is OSB?

Oriented strand board consists of several pressed layers and then glued with special waterproof resins. Glued in three layers. On the outer sides, chips are laid along the length, on the inside - perpendicularly. This solution gives the new building material a special strength.

Types of OSB boards

V construction works, as well as for repairs, several types of these plates are used. So, OSB-2 is a panel that has a very low moisture resistance. This solution is only suitable for indoor work in dry rooms.

OSB-3 is a more versatile board. Among the characteristics - high resistance to moisture, both indoors and outdoors. Also, the plate has a huge margin of safety.

OSB-4 is the most durable and most moisture resistant materials. They are used only to create load-bearing structures in conditions where the level of humidity is especially high.

Which slabs are suitable for the floor?

If you need to make a floor from OSB, then OSB-3 is best suited for these purposes. These boards perfectly withstand the impact of heavy furniture, various equipment and other mechanical stress.

These panels are used for pre-installation of the final floor covering. If on rough concrete or wooden base there are only small defects, then the thickness of the sheets in this case should be no more than 10 mm. If there are more large protrusions and depressions on the surface, then it is best to use thicker slabs. Their thickness in this case should be from 10 to 15 mm.

If you plan to build the floor on logs, then even thicker sheets should be used - the thickness should be from 15 to 25 mm.

Selection rules

It is worth knowing some selection rules. It is very important who made the sheets. Experienced experts recommend opting for products from Canada or Europe. As for the size, 2.44x1.22 m is considered standard for this material.

The main functions of OSB boards

Such panels are used to create an even and most durable base for various types of modern finishing floor coverings... It can be parquet, ceramic tile, laminate, carpet.

It is ideal for leveling floors. Plywood, which was used before, does not have such high characteristics. If there is a choice - plywood or OSB floor, then the latter will be more durable.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of such a building material, there are also enough high density- even a large rat cannot damage this base. High resistance to moisture allows you to use the material anywhere - you can lay these sheets in baths, as well as in various unheated rooms.

Laying OSB on the floor does not require special skills - absolutely any home craftsman can do this, which is a serious advantage. To equip a rough base, it is enough to be able to use the usual building level, hacksaw and hammer.

OSB is a great opportunity to save money, since the price of these plates is low. One element will be enough to cover a serious area. You can also highlight high strength characteristics - even with heavy loads, the floor will not deform.

Installation of OSB on a concrete floor

Imagine this situation - there is a terrible curve. For alignment, you can apply the following scheme. The technology is relevant for any concrete surfaces.

The first step is to clean the work surface as much as possible. To do this, you can use either a vacuum cleaner or a broom. It is necessary to ensure maximum cleanliness, because the sheets will be glued with assembly glue. Clean surface - high adhesion.

Then the cleaned base should be coated with a primer. This will help the adhesive bond better to the concrete surface. In addition, the primer forms a sufficiently dense film on the screed, which will prevent it from dusting during use.

Then they begin to lay out the OSB slabs on the floor. If necessary, trim the pieces to the desired size with a jigsaw, or circular saw... From the seamy side, it is applied to the material.It should be chosen only on a rubber basis - it is more effective for solving such a problem. Experienced experts recommend using a notched trowel so that the glue can be applied as evenly as possible.

Additionally, the slab must be secured with a hammer-in dowel. This is done for a guaranteed and secure hold. It is best to hammer in dowels around the perimeter. The interval is 20-30 cm. If the concrete screed is even, and the installation is carried out in a dry room, then OSB can be fixed only in the corners, but this is taking into account the fact that high-quality glue is used.

During the installation process, it is imperative to leave expansion joints between the sheets. Their width should be about 3 mm. A 12 mm seam is also left around the entire perimeter of the room - between the slab and the wall. These are special deformation gaps that, if necessary, can compensate for the expansion of materials. The OSB floor is almost ready.

In conclusion, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the resulting surface from dust and various debris accumulated there. Expansion joints are filled with polyurethane foam. The surfaces are then allowed to rest and dry for 4 hours. After that, all that remains is to cut off the foam, and you can lay the topcoat.

Installation of OSB on a wooden floor

So before you get busy installation work, you should again prepare the base base. It is very important to pay attention to the nails, if any. They must be sunk deep into the board. A regular hammer and steel bolt are best for this. The diameter of the bolt should be the same as the diameter of the nail. If the floorboard has fallen into disrepair during operation, it must be restored with a planer.

After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of OSB. First of all, the pre-cut sheets are laid out on the surface. Here, as in the case of installation on concrete, it is important to remember the need for expansion joints. For fastening the plates, it is best to use self-tapping screws, the length of which is 4 cm. The interval of fasteners is about 20-30 cm. The caps of the screws are sunk into the plate.

After the installation is completed, it is recommended to grind the joints. This can be done by hand, but if the area of ​​the room is serious, then it will do. If needed maximum effect, then it is worth equipping yourself with a vibration machine, which is equipped with a grinding mesh. It is worth handling the slab with the utmost care - you can easily make grooves on its surface.

Installation of slabs is extremely simple. It turns out that all craftsmen understand how to make a floor from OSB. This new building material is worth a try. He is efficient and a pleasure to work with.

OSB or OSB (oriented strand board) is a relatively new building material that has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB in frame construction, when insulating standard houses. Especially often, with the help of OSB, floor surfaces are formed and leveled. Today we will talk about how to do it correctly.

Types of OSB boards and their characteristics

OSB - boards consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with waterproof resins. It is glued together in 3 layers. In the outer layers, the chips are laid along the length of the panel, and inside - perpendicularly. This arrangement gives the OSB strength, allows you to firmly hold the fasteners.

The following types of OSB are used in construction:

• OSB-2 - panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
• OSB-3 - universal material... Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. Large stock strength allows it to be widely used in construction.
• OSB-4 is the most durable and moisture resistant board. They are used to form load-bearing structures in conditions high humidity.

For construction and leveling of floors, OSB-3 sheets are usually used, which perfectly withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and movement of people.

When leveling small defects floor, it is enough to use OSB boards with a thickness of 10 mm. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require 10-15 mm of material. If it is necessary to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.

Wood-based panels such as plywood and OSB are widely used for sub-flooring under the topcoat. Let's compare these two materials in the following article:.

OSB boards are used as an even and solid base for various modern coatings - parquet, tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand boards are:

• Create a floor surface. OSB is a popular subfloor material for joists. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both along the upper side of the log, and along the lower one.
• Leveling the surface. Installing OSB on a wooden or concrete floor will help create an absolutely flat surface suitable for laying a finishing coat.
• Thermal insulation of the floor. OSB board consists of 90% natural wood chips with high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, OSB flooring prevents heat from escaping and keeps it indoors.
• Noise isolation. The multilayer dense structure of OSB reliably absorbs any kind of noise.

Consider several popular technologies for laying OSB on different bases.

Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)

Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling the concrete base with OSB slabs. The work is performed according to this scheme.

Debris is swept from the concrete base, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the assembly adhesive. The base is covered with a primer. This also contributes to better adhesion of the adhesive to the substrate. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to "dust" during operation.

OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is performed with a jigsaw or a circular saw. Apply rubber-based parquet glue to the seamy side of OSB using a notched trowel for uniform application. The sheets are glued to the concrete base.

Additionally, OSB is fixed with hammer-in dowels. For guaranteed retention, the dowels are hammered around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is flat, installation is carried out in a dry living space, then it is enough to fix the dowels at the corners of each plate (provided that high-quality glue is required!).

During installation, expansion joints with a thickness of 3 mm are left between the boards. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for the temperature and humidity expansion (swelling) of the OSB during operation.

At the last stage of work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The seams between the wall and the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam. Drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam that has protruded beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.

Installation of OSB boards on board flooring

Laying OSB on an old wood floor helps to level the surface and prepare it for the installation of a topcoat. Installation is carried out in this way:

1. To begin with, using a level or rule, localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) in the boardwalk is determined.
2. Boards that "walk" or rise too high above the general level are attracted to the lags with dowels, sinking them into the material. In some cases, in order to eliminate the creak and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be sorted out with the replacement (repair) of the lag.
3. Clean the paint buildup from the flooring, swells and protrusions are erased with a grinder or emery cloth.
4. OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with an offset of the seams of each next row. There should be no cruciform joints! Expansion gaps are provided (between the slabs - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
5. Holes are drilled in the slabs. Their diameter should match the diameter of the thread of the wood screws that were chosen to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the plates every 20-30 cm, countersinking is performed under the caps of the screws.
6. Wood screws pull the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of self-tapping screws is at least 45 mm.
7. If you want to make the floor more durable, mount the second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
8. Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with polyurethane foam, which is cut off after drying.

This completes the process.

Laying OSB on logs on a concrete base

In the presence of a concrete base (for example, floor slabs), the device of the logs and their sheathing with OSB sheets allows you to create an even floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also to fit insulating, moisture and sound insulating materials into the structure.

Consider the technology of creating a floor from OSB on logs on an existing concrete base. Lags (wooden blocks) are fixed on the concrete floor using dowels or anchors.

The wider the distance between the lags, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the step is 40 mm, then the minimum OSB thickness is 15-18 mm, if the step is 50 cm - the thickness is 18-22 mm, if 60 cm - 22 mm or more.

Due to the lags, between the OSB and concrete slab space is created. It can be used profitably by covering it with insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a heat insulator can be placed between the logs: mineral wool, foam, EPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the overlap, the floor structure is supplemented with vapor barrier films or membranes.

OSB plates are laid across the log. The seams between adjacent slabs (in width) should go strictly in the middle of the log. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm - between the plates, 12 mm - between the OSB and the wall)

The sheets are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). The step of fasteners: along the perimeter of the sheets - 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports - 30 mm. Nails (or screws) fixing the plates around the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fasteners are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.

How to fix OSB boards on logs in an ordinary city apartment, watch the video:

Creating a subfloor from OSB on logs

Laying OSB on wooden logs Is the simplest way to get a durable and reliable subfloor. This technology is especially appropriate with the existing columnar, pile, pile-screw foundation... Work order:

1. Logs are mounted on the foundation. The lag step should correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the step, the greater the thickness).
2. Perform a rough roll of the floor. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the lag, OSB plates are laid and fixed on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing agents, for example, bituminous mastic.
3. A vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the OSB.
4. Lay down thermal insulation material e.g. polystyrene, mineral wool slabs, ecowool, etc.
5. Cover the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on joists on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).

This completes the work process.

OSB processing for different topcoats

A durable, hard and even surface makes OSB a universal base for all modern types of finishing floor coverings. How to cover an OSB floor? Here are some popular solutions:

• Varnish or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finishing floors, which only need decorative finishing. paints and varnishes... OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation, it is enough to clean them from dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
• Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying roll materials it is necessary to ensure that the joints between the OSB boards are flush with the rest of the surface. It is advisable to remove all irregularities with sanding paper. Compensation gaps - fill with elastic sealant.
• Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the OSB base, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. For this, the logs are placed more often than the thickness of the sheets requires. The step between the fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued onto the OSB using a special glue suitable for wooden surface and the tiles used.
• Laminate- finishing coating, which is fixed in a "floating" way, without rigid fastening of the lamellas. This coating is quite tough, so there is no need to prepare OSB for it. Minor irregularities, which may be at the joints of the slabs, are leveled by the substrate.

What exactly to choose is up to you.

Using OSB allows you to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary, create it from scratch on the logs. The OSB surface does not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, coating with moisture-resistant compounds. It is a great choice for those looking to create a quality floor with minimal effort.

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and has found wide application in the construction of frame houses and the decoration of buildings and structures. Internal and external walls, floors and roofs are sheathed with OSB boards. Wall cladding with OSB slabs takes place in frame construction, when the slab acts as a structural material and serves to strengthen the walls of the building, or when it acts as a facade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by the low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will consider the question: how to fix OSB slabs to the wall from the outside.

For cladding external walls, it is necessary to use boards with the OSB-3 brand, specially made for an environment with high humidity. You can find out how the types of OSB sheets differ on the page: OSB sheets, their types, characteristics, sizes.

When installing OSB slabs to external walls, the crate is used for the following purposes:

• alignment of the plane of the wall;
• creating a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB slab;
• prevention of deformation of the slab caused by base movements is especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall on top of the insulation using lathing

Fastening the slab to the wall is carried out using lathing, which is made from wooden block, or a metal profile. The technologies for mounting OSB boards on a wall with wooden lathing and metal profile lathing do not fundamentally differ. When choosing a bar, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed bar of 40-50 mm, then it will not turn out and will not lead after drying, which will have a positive effect on the evenness of the entire wall.

To fasten the bar and profile to the wall, use special metal plates (suspensions). Before fixing the suspensions, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which, subsequently, will ensure the joint of the slabs right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB slab in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, suspensions are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

The metal hanger is used to fasten the battens.
Hangers are attached along the marked lines. Suspensions allow you to fix the crate over the insulation.

After that, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the crate is mounted.

It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed outside the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from the inside of the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely go outside.

Wall with lathing. Insulation is installed between the crate and the wall.

After fixing the lathing, you can proceed with the installation of OSB boards. For wall cladding, a plate from 9 to 12 mm thick is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. OSB boards are fastened to the lathing made of wooden beams with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet. To the crate from a metal profile - on self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the crate weighs over the insulation, and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, the maximum efficiency of the insulation is achieved. In addition, there is an air gap between the battens of the sheathing, through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also increases its characteristics. For more information on the technology of a ventilated facade, see the article: ventilated facades, types of ventilated facades.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses with a wooden frame, two main approaches are used: fastening OSB sheets to the frame through the lathing and fastening the OSB sheets directly to the frame without lathing. Consider the case of fixing OSB boards using lathing.

When with inside walls, strong slabs are attached to the frame, ensuring good rigidity of the wall structure, then a crate can be made from the outside between the frame and the OSB plate. The lathing forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the frame posts. On top of the racks and insulation, a wind and waterproof membrane is attached, which easily allows moisture to pass through. Next, the crate is attached and the OSB slabs on it.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with lathing.

With this design, the slabs can be left without finishing, you can paint them, plaster or fix almost any facade material on them.

When fixing OSB boards without using a crate, the maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to fasten the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB plate, then mount the crate to create a ventilation gap and front material on it, for example siding, boards or decorative panels... OSB boards are attached to the timber frame with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fixing OSB from the outside of the house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformations of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

The technology of fastening OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of crate.

So for example, when building a frame house on Finnish technology There is no crate between the frame and the OSB foxes. More details about this technology can be found in the article: construction of a frame house using the "Platform" technology.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out in the same way as with a wooden frame. When fixing the plates directly to the metal frame, self-tapping screws for metal are used with a length of 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for mounting OSB plates to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fixing OSB sheets, there is general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the sheathing structure.

• Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate.
• A gap of 10 mm is required between the bottom plate and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
• Plates cannot be joined close to each other, a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them, so that the plate can expand unhindered by changes in humidity.
• All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw, but if you need perfectly smooth joints and cuts, then you can come to the furniture shop with ready-made dimensions and OSB sheets, where for a small fee they will saw your sheets on a panel saw exactly and exactly to size ...

Wall cladding with OSB plates

Technology for cladding the walls of the house with OSB slabs from the outside of the wall. How to fix OSB slabs on walls with and without wooden and metal lathing.

How to properly fix the OSB slab on the roof

Correct installation of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself

Correct styling OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself

For laying OSB slabs of various thicknesses and productions are used on the walls. The selection of material is made in accordance with the operating conditions of the premises. Depending on what climatic loads the house will bear, the type of OSB used is selected. It is worth noting that laying OSB 3 makes sense in the case when high requirements for moisture resistance and strength are imposed on the material.

In case the slabs are used for cladding small room, it is allowed to use OSB 3 with a thickness of 10 mm. In other cases, experts advise using sheets with a thickness of 12 mm. Fastening of slabs is allowed along or across structural beams. In the case of horizontal installation, the plates must be provided with stiffeners under all joints and free edges. The slabs can be provided with a frame structure on one or both sides. The center-to-center distance between the beams should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. The expansion gap between the walls and near the openings should be at least 3 mm wide.

The slabs are fastened with nails that are approximately 2.5 times thicker than the slabs. If spiral nails are used, their length must be at least 51 mm. In the case of annular applications: 45 mm ÷ 75 mm. The nails are driven in at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge of the slab. Fasteners are placed every 30 cm on intermediate supports and every 15 cm on OSB 3 joints.

The principle of laying OSB 3 on the floor

For laying the floor, use hard and load-resistant slabs. Installation of OSB-3 is most suitable. If the installation of sheets will be carried out on a concrete screed, then the required layer thickness should be 6 ÷ 9 mm. If the slabs will be laid directly on the logs, then the layer thickness should be 15–22 mm (in the case of laying the slabs in one layer) and 9–12 mm (in the case of a double layer). The center-to-center distance between the beams should be 60 cm. The distance between the logs varies depending on the thickness of the plates used.

If OSB-3 is laid close to the ground, care must be taken to create a waterproofing layer on the outside of the floor. It is also necessary not to forget to provide drainage holes.

In order to calculate the required number of slabs, you need to add to the area of ​​the room required amount material for undercuts (no more than 7%). After that, divide the resulting number by the area of ​​one sheet and determine the required amount of material.

Plates are laid perpendicular to the axis of the beams. When laying sheets, a temperature gap should be left in order to enable the plates to work. The size of the provided gap is usually 3 mm, but in the case of laying slabs between the walls, 12 mm should be left. Plates are connected on logs, or, if necessary, on an additional support or using a bracket.

As in the case of laying the wall, the nails used to fasten the walls can be circular or spiral, with the same dimensions. The center distance between the fasteners should be 30 cm on the supports and 15 cm on the material joints. It is permissible to use glue to increase the rigidity of the floor.

The basics of proper installation of OSB 3 on the roof

To install OSB-3 on the roof, you must first prepare the surface well - it should be as flat as possible. Irregularities in the future can spoil the appearance of the coating. If the laying is done in rooms that will not be heated in the future, then you need to think in advance about sufficient ventilation. For this, it is necessary to provide for the presence of holes, the number of which must be at least 1/150 of the total area. It is also necessary to dry well the sheets used for covering in case of unintentional wetting.

The slabs should be laid along the bars, while paying attention to the fact that each slab is located on at least two bars and connected on a support. If necessary, it is allowed to create additional supports. When laying the boards, it is necessary to provide a gap of 3 mm to prevent the consequences of temperature changes.

The requirements for the fasteners are the same as in the case of wall and ceiling cladding: spiral nails 51 mm or ring nails with a run-up from 45 mm to 75 mm. Nails are driven in every 30 cm on rafter legs ah and every 15 cm - at the joints of the plates. The distance from the edge of the slab to the nail is at least 1 cm. The center-to-center distance of the rafters is 60 cm (9–12 cm thickness of the slabs) and 100 cm (15–18 cm).

If there is a chimney, the sheets must be moved away from it in accordance with Building Regulations.

When installing OSB 3 on the roof, you must adhere to all safety rules at height.

Installation of OSB roof cladding with slabs for flexible shingles

Before installing the roof sheathing, make sure that the rafter legs or battens are level. Curved or uneven rafter legs will affect the final appearance of the roof and make installation difficult. Boards soaked in rain should be left to dry completely and protected from biological corrosion before shingles, roofing sheets or other covering are laid. Moisture should not exceed 20% of dry weight. Cold attics should be well ventilated. Ventilation openings should be at least 1/150 of the entire horizontal surface of the roof.

It is necessary to leave a gap of about 3-4 mm between the OSB sheets, because due to changes in temperature and humidity, linear expansion of the sheets occurs. The lack of a gap can lead to deformation of the base. The slab must be laid on at least two supports, and the joints of the slabs must also be on the supports.

The required thickness of OSB sheets is determined by the project. The designer determines how thick the plywood should be used over the stepped sheathing, depending on the planned loads (the sheathing pitch is also determined by the designer). Rafter legs, pitch, section and fastening design are also determined based on the project.

An example of a preliminary assessment of the dependence of the distances between the battens and the thickness of the OSB board used for roofs with an inclination of more than 20 degrees, a rafter pitch of 600 mm and snow load 100 kg / sq.m .:

If the roof structure has openings for chimneys, then the roof sheathing must be moved away from the chimney at a distance corresponding to the accepted Building Code. For fixing the slabs, spiral nails with a length of 51 mm or ring nails with a length of 45 mm to 75 mm should be used. Nails are driven in every 30 cm on the rafter legs or battens and every 15 cm at the slab joints. The distance from the nail to the edge of the slab should not be less than 1 cm.

OSB also works well with prefabricated roof trusses. Prefabricated trusses accelerate the roof erection process while providing surface for roof cladding, insulation and ceiling finishing at the same time. In most cases, trusses are supported on external walls - without intermediate supports on internal walls. This option increases the load on the trusses in the case of a large distance between the walls, but gives more freedom in choosing the placement of internal partitions.

How to properly fix the OSB slab on the roof

Correct installation of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB on your own Correct installation of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself For laying OSB on walls, plates of various thicknesses are used ...

OSB APPLICATION GUIDE

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE OF ORIENTED OSB BOARD (OSB, OSB)

1. Orientation of slabs:

This structure provides high level: Dimensional consistency; Fracture resistance (bending strength); Shear strength within the slab.

inscriptions (markings) on the edge of the slab. On milled panels

the longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the marking on the surface of the panel.

Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to observe the correct orientation of the slab specified by the designer (especially in single-layer building structures).

2. Acclimatization of plates and protection from water and humidity

Premises with constant heating 6 - 9%. Premises with periodic heating 9 - 10%. Premises without heating 16-18%

OSB boards, when storing and using them, must be protected from the effects of water.

After installation on the outside of the building, on the walls and roof, it must be covered with appropriate insulation to protect against adverse weather conditions. The edges of OSB 3 boards (especially at the edges) are exposed to high humidity, may swell moderately (in accordance with the norm). In this case, before installing the final elements (for example, asphalt shingle on the roof), it is necessary to evenly grind the joints of the slabs (to ensure a level surface). To prevent damage to OSB boards, it is necessary to eliminate excessive moisture, which can be caused by:

1. Using too damp or wet materials;
2. Installation on non-dried objects erected using "wet" processes;
3. Errors during insulation work (water leakage into the building, improper installation of the vapor barrier, etc.);
4. Insufficient protection against atmospheric conditions ( external walls and the roof must be protected with appropriate insulation immediately after installation).

3. Cutting, milling, drilling

feed used when processing solid wood. The boards must be fixed in such a way that the boards do not vibrate during processing. It is allowed to cut slabs using a hand-held power tool

4. Fixing the plates

The minimum diameter (section) of the staples should be 1.5 mm with a length of 50 mm; For OSB, you can use nails as for solid wood, screws or staples. When installing supporting structures, it is necessary to use connecting elements made of stainless materials (galvanized or stainless steel). Strengthening the strength of the connection can be achieved by using special nails; ring or spiral (the use of nails with a smooth shank is not recommended.). The length of the connecting elements must be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board to be attached, but in no case less than 50 mm; the distance from the connecting element to the edge of the plate must correspond to the sevenfold diameter of the connecting element (i.e., when using nails with a diameter of 3 mm, at least 20 mm); the maximum distance between nails driven into the edge of the slab should not exceed 150 mm; the maximum distance between nails driven in the middle of the slab should not exceed 300 mm; plates with smooth edges are mounted on supports (ceiling frame, ceiling beam); fastening OSB boards of low thickness must start from the middle of their upper part and continue fastening evenly in the direction of the sides and downward (to prevent swelling and sagging of the board).

5. Expansion clearances

(lat.dilatatio - extension)

1. When installing slabs as a supporting structure of "floating" floors, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 15 mm when they are joined to the wall.
2. When installing slabs as wall cladding, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 10 mm wide when they are joined to the foundation;

If the length of the surface on which the slabs are mounted exceeds 12 m, it is necessary to leave expansion gaps between the slabs with a width of 25 mm every 12 m.

• plates with smooth edges - it is necessary to leave at least 3 mm wide gaps between them when joining.
• slabs with milled edges (ridge-groove). When joining, expansion gaps are formed by themselves.

Expansion gaps with a width of 3 mm must also be left when joining plates with other structures, for example, with a window frame, doors, etc.

6. Surface protection and painting

paint manufacturers. For interior surfaces to be painted, we recommend using sanded boards. To paint the surface of the boards, you can use the usual colorless or colored paints used for painting wood.

7. Application

A2 - Detail of precast roof for wet environments

B1 - Asphalt roof detail

B2 - Detail of asphalt roofing for wet environments

C - Detail of an external load-bearing wall

D1 - Detail of an internal load-bearing wall

D2 - Detail of the internal partition

E1 - Slab detail with "light" floating floor

E2 - Slab detail with "heavy" floating floor

F - Tables for pre-selection of slabs

G - Basic principles of using OSB boards in timber structures and buildings

h2 - General principles of creating structures for ceilings and floors

h3 - General principles for creating structures of external and internal load-bearing walls

p - General principles for creating pitched roof structures

8. Basic principles of using OSB boards in timber structures and buildings.

resistance to the destructive effects of biological factors. To ensure a long service life and reliability of new wooden structures and buildings, it is necessary to analyze all the designed structures in terms of possible diffusion and condensation of water vapor or the ratio of temperature and humidity, as well as the corresponding stable moisture content of the tree for compliance with the requirements setting environmental parameters for the use of OSB boards ...

Wood moisture graph

The main difference in the possible limitation of the effect of water vapor penetrating through the structure arises from the method of analyzing the properties of the vapor barrier. Vapor barrier building structure, limiting the penetration of water vapor from the environment into the building structure, due to the equalization of temperature and pressure of water vapor in the internal and external environment. For

of this process, as a result of a decrease in temperature below a certain value, condensation of water vapor may occur. The resulting condensation can cause negative influence on properties

building structure or reduce its service life. By limiting the penetration of water vapor into the interior of the structure, it is meant to limit diffusion (penetration of water vapor due to partial pressure) and the flow of moisture (penetration of water vapor due to air current). In the special literature, you can find the classification of materials for a vapor barrier layer according to the equivalent diffusion thickness. The equivalent diffusion thickness Sd (m) is defined as the air gap, which has the same resistance to water vapor as the corresponding layer of the building structure.

The Sd value is not the value of the diffusion resistance of the structure layer, given in m / s -1). A significant increase in moisture in the outer layer in comparison with the design model at the site of damage to materials is caused by the spatial distribution of moisture and their unequal properties.

Differences in material properties can be caused by the following:

1. violation of technological discipline
2. poor quality connection certain types materials and their contact with openings and surrounding structures
3. aging compounds

1. OSB-2 Baseboards for use in dry environments (12% moisture resistance)
2. OSB-3 Baseboards for use in humid environments (24% humidity resistance)

OSB boards in accordance with the standard are classified as OSB-2 and OSB-3.

It is characterized by moisture content in construction materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20 ° C. and relative humidity of ambient air exceeding 65% for no more than several weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 12%.

It is characterized by a moisture content in construction materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of the ambient air exceeding 85% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 20%.

It is characterized by climatic conditions that increase the moisture content of the materials compared to moisture class 2.

9. Ceiling constructions

1. Plates with smooth edges should be mounted on load-bearing beams with an expansion gap of 3 mm.
2. Plates with “tongue-and-groove” edges must be glued with glue (for example, polyurethane) to increase the rigidity.
3. Install all slabs so that their longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the beams.
4.  Make sure that all faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on the beams.
5. The width of the expansion gap along the perimeter of the walls must be at least 15 mm.

Fasteners:

1. Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 50 mm, if possible with a spiral or grooves.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, at least 45 mm. (screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm are recommended).
3. The maximum distance between the nails is 150 mm at the joints of the slabs, 300 mm on the plane of the slab.
4. Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the plate.

Under wooden ceilings on the first floor, located above the base, waterproofing is laid directly on the base to protect it from moisture (film). Protect ceiling structures from possible exposure to rain during installation. At open ceiling holes must be made in it for water drainage. Recommended max. center-to-center distance between racks: min. the recommended board thickness is 15 mm. 18 mm. 22 mm. The center-to-center distance between the uprights is 300 mm. 400 mm. 600 mm. 800 mm

The center-to-center distances between the uprights are approximate. Determination of dimensions is carried out taking into account the length of the slab and a certain exact value of the load on the slab.

10. Constructions of floors on a load-bearing crate

The installation principles are the same as in the case of ceiling installation. When installing the slabs, first lay a soundproofing layer on the supporting beams (cushions) to absorb the sound of footsteps.

11. Constructions of "floating" floors

The floor structure consists of one OSB board (OSB, OSB), "tongue-and-groove" thickness. 18 - 22 mm or from two boards (recommended) thick. 12 - 18 mm (min.9 mm). The spreading floor surface can be composed of one slab

OSB, for floors without high demands on the constancy of the form, or in cases where the effect of a concentrated load is not expected (in places above the ridge-groove connection). Otherwise, use a two-layer or multi-layer floor structure.

The slabs are placed on soundproofing to absorb the sound of footsteps (hard mineral wool or polystyrene mats for use in floor structures). The individual layers of the boards are laid in mutually perpendicular directions and connected by gluing on the surface or using screws. When using screws, we recommend connecting the boards in both directions or placing an intermediate layer between them (extruded microporous polyethylene or PSUL sealing tape) to prevent possible squeak.

12. General recommended principles for creating structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

1. OSB boards used for walls are mounted vertically or horizontally. When installing load-bearing walls, it is recommended to use slabs that correspond in length to the height of the walls (to facilitate the determination of the required dimensions and installation of the slabs).
2. For horizontal installation of slabs, it is necessary to put slab strips or stiffeners under all joints and free edges.
3. The slabs can be fitted with a wooden frame structure on one or both sides. Plates are allowed to be mounted on the outer and inner sides of the load-bearing walls.

To prevent possible water absorption, the expansion gap between the frame and concrete foundation must be at least 25 mm wide. Expansion gaps can be created by installing an entire wooden

structures on wedge pads, and the entire gap under the load-bearing wooden frame fill with cement mortar. If the frame is installed directly on the foundation, then it is necessary to provide its chemical protection and raise the slabs above the level of the foundation to a height of at least 25 mm. Between the walls and around the door and window openings an expansion gap of at least 3 mm must be left.

1. Nails with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, at least 50 mm, if possible with a spiral or grooves.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, at least 45 mm (screws at least 4.2 x 45 mm are recommended).
3. Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab, in load-bearing walls- at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fastening material (at least 20 mm)
4. The recommended thickness of the slabs for sheathing the walls of the frame is at least 12 mm with the arrangement of racks every 400 - 625 mm.

Thermal and waterproofing of slabs:

1. It is recommended to use mineral wool on the front side as additional heat and sound insulation. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the method of fixing this facade system.
2. When using slabs for wall cladding from the outside, it is necessary to take into account the diffusion resistance of the slab to the penetration of water vapor. On the other hand, slabs mounted on the inner side of the wall can serve as a structural element with diffusion resistance (provided that the joints of the slabs and structural elements are sealed with an appropriate insulating tape). When using “tongue-and-groove” boards, the tape can be replaced by gluing the ridge in the groove with glue (PUR, PVA).
3. The joint of the lower edge of the wooden structure with the foundation must be covered with a protective waterproofing compound (for example, based on bitumen emulsions).

1. Plate thickness; 9 - 12 mm. 12 - 15 mm. 15 - 22 mm.
2. At the edges of the slab; 100 mm. 125 mm. 150 mm.
3. On the surface of the slab; 200 mm. 250 mm. 300 mm.

For load bearing walls, the center distance between the fasteners is determined by static analysis.

13. General recommended principles for creating pitched roof structures

1. Before starting the installation of slabs on the roof structure, it is necessary to check the location of the rafters in the axes, whether they have curvatures and distinctive dimensions. Curved and differently sized rafters adversely affect the properties and appearance of the roof.
2. The plates are connected in such a way that the edges perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie along the entire length on supports (rafters, slats, etc.) Therefore, it is recommended to choose the location of the rafters in modules with a span of 833 mm or 625 mm.
3. In the case of a different or greater span length (> 833 mm), in order to improve the surface of the roof structure, it is necessary to choose an option with a longitudinal lathing of slats or boards 80-100 mm wide. The use of strips mounted with a pitch (in the axes) of 417 or 625 mm, it is possible to achieve a reduction in the thickness of the slab (depending on the load).

Plates with a straight edge

1. There must be a 3 mm expansion gap between the boards.
2. To level the roof surface and accelerate the temperature leveling of the slabs, it is recommended to reinforce the longitudinal edges of the slabs with steel H-brackets.

Flange-groove slabs

To strengthen the roof structure and increase the diffusion resistance of the structural layer, glue the edges with glue (eg PUR, PVA).

1. Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, that is, 50 - 75 mm, if possible with a spiral or grooves, galvanized or stainless steel, with a diameter of at least 3 mm.
2. Screws with a length of 2.5 times the board thickness, but not less than 45 mm (screws with a size of at least 4.2 x 45 mm are recommended).
3. Nails are driven in at a distance 7 times the diameter of the fastening material, but not less than 20 mm.

Environmental exposure (temperature and humidity)

Plates are used in the roof structure as a material with diffusion resistance. In rooms with normal air humidity of 50% (residential and office rooms etc.) they can be used in structures without a vapor barrier, provided that the expansion joints of the slabs are sealed with a suitable insulating tape or by gluing the tongue-and-groove joints.

Environmental protection

1. Center distance between rafters; 600 mm. 800 mm 1000 mm.
2. Min. recommended plate thickness; 12 mm. 15 mm. 18 mm.
3. Recommended distance between fasteners on the plane of the slab and the edge of the slab; 150 mm.
4. Roof slope 40 ° and more - 150
5. Roof slope 30 ° - 40 ° - 200
6. Roof slope< 30°- 300
7. Nails [mm] 3.1 x 50

Dimensions are based on the updated static load on the slabs. Boards that have been exposed to water (eg rain) must be dried before installation and roofing.

14. General principles of storage and warehousing

OSB boards (OSB, OSB)

For storage of slabs, it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation.

It is also possible to store the boards under a canopy so that they are not exposed to the risk of exposure to atmospheric precipitation.

If it is impossible to store under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare a flat horizontal surface and provide insulation from the ground with a layer of film, as well as wrap the pallet with foil.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should be laid flat on a flat surface.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should not come into contact with the ground to avoid possible contact with water.

Incorrect laying can lead to deformation and damage to OSB boards (OSB, OSB). When placing several packs one above the other, the wooden slats must be in the same vertical plane.

OSB protection (OSB, OSB)

The top of the packs should be covered with a protective panel to prevent mechanical damage. If the slabs are outdoors, they must be protected with a moisture-proof covering.

During transportation, OSB boards must be protected from atmospheric precipitation.

Like other wood-based panels, OSB (OSB, OSB) boards are hygroscopic and their dimensions change in response to changes in humidity. A change in the amount of moisture in OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can lead to changes in the dimensions of the boards, and this can cause problems during the operation of the boards. 1% change in moisture content, as a rule, increases or decreases the length, width and thickness of different brands of OSB boards (OSB, OSB).

Installation of OSB boards - correct cladding and fastening to supporting structures

The main area of ​​application of OSB boards is the arrangement of structural elements of a building: roofs, floors, walls. Wherein installation of osb slabs has some features, the knowledge of which will help to make the cladding of high quality and durable. Before starting the installation, you need to decide on the choice of hardware that will play the main role when securing the OSB.

Applicable nails and screws

There are many types of nails that are used depending on where the plate is attached and its weight:

• finishing: used where camouflage is desirable and the likelihood of being pulled out is minimized. Often used in conjunction with glue.
• round without a head: needed when laying floors, when installing frame structures and when fixing slabs with tongue-and-groove joints
• with a hat: used where there is no need for camouflage;

There are also special nails that have a ring or screw type thread. Such hardware better hold the nailed plate, but are difficult to pull out.

It is best to fix the panels with screws designed for working with wood - the fastening reliability increases dramatically. In this case, the use of a much smaller number of screws is allowed when compared with the number of nails. If necessary, the screw can be easily unscrewed by switching the screwdriver to reverse.

Roof trim

Before starting installation, make sure that the battens or rafter legs are parallel. The surface must be leveled, and non-observance of this requirement leads to the impossibility of a reliable tongue-and-groove connection.

If the slabs prepared for installation are exposed to rain, then they must be dried before laying.

Before installation, make sure that the attic space is adequately ventilated ( total area ventilation openings should be at least 1/150 of the entire area horizontally).

The largest part of the operating load should fall on the long axis of the slab. The articulation of the short ends should be carried out on the roof supports. The long sides are joined on auxiliary supports, the connection method is a groove-comb or H-shaped brackets.

If the edges of the slabs are even (i.e., there is no spike and groove), then a dilatation gap of 3 millimeters should be left. This will enable the material to change its dimensions with temperature changes without compromising the quality of the coating.

The slab must lie on at least 2 supports (the connection must fall on them). Below is the dependence of the distance between the elements of the lathing on the thickness of the OSB (for roofs with a slope of no more than 14 degrees):

• 1m: plate thickness from 18 mm;
• 0.8 meters: thickness from 15 mm;
• 0.6 meters: thickness from 12 mm.

When laying the slab next to the chimney, the norms established by SNiP must be observed. High-quality fastening of the OSB slab to the rafters is possible using ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long, or spiral nails 5.1 cm long. The distance to the edge of the slab cannot be less than 10 mm.

Installation of OSB on walls

Installation can be done in two ways: horizontally or vertically.

When bypassing window and door openings, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 3 mm.

With a distance between the wall supports of 40-60 cm, it is recommended that the wall cladding with a slab 1.2 cm thick is recommended. If thermal insulation is required, then it should be organized before the plates are fixed. As a heat-insulating material, preference should be given to mineral wool.

For fixing the plates, two-inch spiral nails (51 mm) or ring nails with a length of 4.5 to 7.5 cm are used. They must be driven every 30 cm into intermediate supports. At the junction of the slabs, nails are driven in every 15 cm. From the edge, nails should be hammered in with a step of 10 cm (no closer than 1 cm from the edge).

Dilatation gaps should also be left:

• between the top edge of the slab and the crown beam: 1 cm;
• between the bottom edge of the slab and the foundation wall: 1cm;
• between slabs that do not have a groove-ridge connection: 0.3 cm.

Laying on the floor

Before laying the material, it is necessary to make waterproofing (if the floor is made on the ground floor).

OSB slabs should be connected on logs. If there are no grooves or ridges, maintain the same 3 mm gap. If a floating floor is planned, then leave a gap of 1.2 cm between the wall and the edge of the slab.

OSB sheets should be laid perpendicular to the logs. The long edges of the slabs should be connected to each other by means of a groove and a ridge, and in their absence - by H-shaped brackets. It is desirable that the joint rests on an auxiliary support. The short sides of the slab must be connected at the logs. The dependence of the thickness of the slab on the distance between the lags is shown below:

• from 1.5 to 1.8 cm: the distance between the lags is no more than 40 cm;
• from 1.8 to 2.2 cm: no more than 50 cm;
• from 2.2 cm: distance - 60 cm.

For fastening, the same types of nails are used that are required for wall cladding and roof arrangement. On intermediate supports, nails are hammered in with a step of 30 cm, at the joints of the plates - with a step of 15 cm.

To increase the rigidity of the entire coating, giving it a holistic look, you can glue the plates to the logs. It will also be useful to glue the groove-comb connection.

It is necessary to use only synthetic glue (water-based compositions are ineffective due to the presence of paraffin in the structure of the slab).

OSB finish

After fixing, you will need wall decoration from OSB. The most common way is putty. This method allows all gaps in the joints to be sealed to prevent moisture penetration. Plus, a well-done work will help prepare the slabs for possible further finishing (for example, varnishing or painting).

For an aesthetically pleasing look, it is better to use slabs specially sanded by the manufacturer. In this case, you will have to spend less time and material on future finishing.

Before carrying out work, you should walk on the slab with finely cut sandpaper, and then cover the surface with a primer (it should not be water-based). Next, you need to choose how to putty OSB. It is better if the composition you choose is colorless. To do this, use one of the types of putty:

After completing this stage, you can think about how to decorate the walls from OSB. For example, it can be varnishing. The board should be varnished in 3-4 steps with complete drying of each layer. Coating with varnish will give the surface a shine and provide reliable protection against moisture penetration.

Another finishing method is painting. Use paint that does not contain water. After priming and putting putty on the OSB board, it can even be laminated or finished with a special film.

Most of the home decoration methods are available after the OSB wall cladding has been made in compliance with the technologies and recommendations of the manufacturer.

Installation of OSB slabs: wall cladding, fastening, surface finishing

Installation of OSB plates - correct cladding and fastening to supporting structures The main area of ​​application of OSB plates is the arrangement of structural elements of a building: roof, floor, walls. Wherein

It is customary to start work in the room with the lining of the ceiling structure, this greatly simplifies other stages. There are many products for such a process, but OSB plates are becoming more and more in demand. These products are distinguished by good performance, but they have certain styling nuances. An important task is the correct decorative cladding the resulting coating.

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When using OSB, the exact selection of the variety is very important. Oriented strand board includes four main classes:

1. OSB-1. Suitable for rough work in stably dry rooms and the manufacture of furniture parts.
2. OSB-2. It has a higher density than the previous version, and a rather low moisture resistance. The products have proven themselves well for cladding internal surfaces with constant humidity.
3. OSB-3. The most popular variety that combines all required properties... It can be operated under severe mechanical stress. Although the products are classified as moisture resistant, they are not able to withstand prolonged contact with water without additional processing.
4. OSB-4. This type is used much less often, because with all its advantages, its price is very high.

There are 4 types of oriented strand board with different technical characteristics.

Ceiling lining with OSB board is carried out with materials of class 2 and 3. The first option is suitable for the living room, bedroom and corridor, the second - for the kitchen, hallway and even the bathroom.

OSB has a fairly wide range of sizes, but most often there are products with dimensions of 122 * 244 cm and 125 * 250 cm. For work with a suspended horizontal structure, the optimal thickness is from 6 to 9–9.5 mm. In such a situation, the leaf weight is 12.9–18.6 kg.

On a note! The availability of security certificates is also important. The criterion of environmental friendliness, measured by the level of formaldehyde emission, should not be more than 10 mg / 100 g. Which implies a toxicity class not higher than E1.

The most important characteristics of OSB boards are weight and thickness

The installation of the material has a number of features that should be taken into account in order to obtain a high-quality result:

• The work involves the preliminary construction of the frame. For this it is better to use wooden bar with a cross section of at least 50 * 40 mm. If there are beams, then laying is carried out on them after setting a single level and creating jumpers.
• It is not easy to precisely fix the plate alone; it is advisable to attract assistants. If the work is done only with your own hands, then you will need to cut the sheet into several fragments.
• Be sure to form expansion gaps along the entire perimeter of the walls. Also leave space between adjacent panels. This is especially true for recently erected private houses and irregularly heated summer cottages.
• To finish the ceiling, you will need metal screws. They should be 2.5-3 times the thickness of the material used. The screw is slightly recessed flush to prevent bulging.
• Sheathing starts from the center or from the corner, depending on the layout of the room. Therefore, it is advisable to calculate the parameters in advance in order to reduce the remainder of the product.
• If the board has additional moisture resistant protection, then the surface is preliminarily sanded and degreased.
• To reduce the complexity of further processes, the parts are treated with a deeply penetrating primer prior to installation. This will cover not only front side but also the ends.

When fixing tiles to the ceiling, it is necessary to use elements made of stainless materials.

Important! When buying material Special attention draw on the geometry of the elements. The fact is that due to violation of production technology or storage conditions, the panel may deform. It is extremely difficult to work with a behavioral leaf; it is not always possible to straighten out the tension.

Installation technology

To install OSB boards correctly, the process should be divided into stages. This will allow all procedures to be carried out efficiently and to avoid problems in the future.

Preliminary activities include the following:

1. The ceiling is treated with antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds. The location of communications is provided in advance. If the structure is directly connected to the attic, then steam and waterproofing is carried out and a thermal insulation plan is thought out.
2. According to the previously drawn up scheme for placing the frame racks, the product is cut out.
3. The surface is cleaned of dirt and dust with a broom and rags and, if necessary, degreased.
4. Products are covered with 2-3 layers of "concretecontact" primer, each layer is carefully dried.
5. A tool for fixing is being prepared - a screwdriver with the required set of bits. You should also provide a place to carry out the process. For greater convenience, trestles or suitable ladders are installed.

Before laying the slabs, it is necessary to carry out preliminary measures on the ceiling surface.

Correctly carried out preliminary work allows you to avoid problems in the future.

To make the ceiling made of OSB slabs extremely even and reliable, it is erected along the crate. The technology of creation is as follows:

1. If a wooden bar is used, it is pre-impregnated protective compounds from mold and mildew and fire retardants. All parts are thoroughly dried.
2. The surface is marked. The first elements will be exhibited 2-3 cm from the walls, and the overall step depends on the type of base and the need to install insulation. The best option- 50-60 cm and the same frequency of bridges, which will be required if the structure needs reinforcement or the slabs are cut into small fragments.
3. The first frame post is attached to one of the walls and leveled. A cord is pulled from it to the opposite surface along both edges to expose the second part. The remaining fragments of the lathing are laid along the resulting plane. Fastening the structure is required with a margin of safety, so it is better to choose metal anchors.
4. Communications are laid, the location of lighting fixtures is marked.

The lathing is a special frame on which OSB plates are subsequently attached

You should know! A significant disadvantage of using plastic dowels when working with concrete structures is a fire attenuation that can lead to a collapse and blockage of the exit.

OSB is mounted on the ceiling with great care, any inaccuracies will lead to distortions. For the convenience of fixing, the parts are reamed in several places, this will allow you to quickly install the self-tapping screw. It is necessary to hem the material according to a certain pattern:

1. The first element should be attached in the most visible corner. If the surface is recruited from the center, then it will be necessary to perform complex transverse and diagonal markings, as well as pull the installation cords.
2. Before fixing, it is required to make a gap from the wall of 10-15 mm and ensure that the seam is at least 3 mm. Self-tapping screws are screwed in with force to provide a deepening of the cap.
3. Due to the fact that the frame cross members are also used for fastening, they are marked after installation. To do this, a mark is made on the edge of the panel, aligned with the opposite one, screws are twisted along the formed line.
4. If the cutting is done in place, then the dimensions of the required part are preliminarily measured. The edges must necessarily lie on the crate.
5. By the same principle, the remaining fragments should be hemmed.

The fastening should not be done close to the wall, you need to leave a small gap

For a good fit, you can use snap-joint plates. They are suitable for situations where it is necessary to obtain a surface that will be decorated with transparent compounds.

OSB ceiling finishes

It is not difficult to sheathe the base with slabs, it is much more difficult to perform the subsequent cladding. For this, a variety of options can be used.

For finishing the OSB ceiling, any decorative materials: varnish, wallpaper, decorative plaster, LMDF or LDVP panels

Varnishing

An original method that allows you to obtain a coating that has a pronounced woody base. For this, the hemming material undergoes preliminary preparation: the gaps are filled with a mixture of sawdust and PVA, the sealed areas are sanded, then the surface is impregnated with a primer.

The varnish is applied in several layers, after each coating it dries well.

Wallpapering

OSB can be finished with a special fiberglass type of wallpaper. If you plan to use traditional roll options, then for better adhesion, it is recommended to putty the base beforehand. When choosing this method, the joints are additionally covered with a reinforcing mesh. It is advisable to choose multi-layer wallpaper and use a suitable glue.

Painting

If desired, the surface can be treated with any colored paints and varnishes, but over time it may appear dark spots... To avoid such troubles, do the following:

1. The coating is degreased and impregnated with 2-3 layers of primer.
2. The ceiling is putty. The applied layer should not be thinner than 2-3 mm. For greater reliability when working on large areas, everything is covered with a special reinforcing mesh.
3. The resulting base can be whitewashed or painted.

OSB boards for interior decoration of the house are used more and more often, therefore, the methods of subsequent cladding are constantly being improved. This allows you to sheathe the premises not only with high quality, but also beautifully.