There is no “just like that” on the plot, because even after heavy rains, water is quickly absorbed into the soil and absorbed by the vegetation.
Typically, these areas are also wetlands, peatlands or low-lying areas. Water is close to the surface of the soil, and the soil tends to be acidic. This whole complex as a whole does not contribute to the cultivation of ornamental plants or the harvest. Moreover, mosquitoes are an inevitable consequence. Dampness and boggy must be dealt with, and above all by engineering measures.
Solution 1. Correct drainage. If everything is too serious, this is the only solution. First of all, determine if you really need a drain, since its installation will require some expense. You can determine it yourself, and this is how: dig a hole about 1.5 m deep in the lowest part of the site. When water appears in it, measure the distance from the water level to the soil surface. If it is less than 1 m, then you have high level groundwater dehumidification measures may be required. In addition, the position of groundwater can be determined by certain indicator plants. So, for example, mosses, certain grasses, forget-me-not indicate that the groundwater is located very close, and the presence of specific, "boggy" plants does indicate a boggy area.
But these criteria are not the only ones, these are only initial data, it is necessary to establish, and is the flow of groundwater also disturbed? Therefore, carefully consider everything that surrounds you on the site.
If your site does not have a noticeable slope, if the soil on the site is too heavy (does not absorb water well), if not large trees(they absorb a lot of water) if your house is too big, there are many buildings on the site, especially paving large area, and also if your fence has too deep foundation - then these are additional "indications" for the drainage device. What does the building have to do with it? The fact is that, even if the groundwater is located normally, humidity can increase due to chronic stagnation of water, and this stagnation occurs due to the fact that big square paving and structures "throws" too much water in the rain. If you do not provide for this water special system removal, all of it will simultaneously fall into the soil and stagnate in it. Proper drainage has three components: drainage around the perimeter of the site, laying drainage pipes inside the site and the device of drainage wells. Everyone is probably familiar with drainage along the perimeter of the site. Perforated pipes are laid in a ditch to a depth of 80 cm on crushed stone, then the trench is covered with crushed stone, and from above with soil. But there is not enough such drainage for the site, moreover, there is a possibility of its "siltation".

The laying of drainage pipes inside the site also takes place in the dug trenches, but there is a difference here. They are dug out with a fork. There should be a central, main pipe, and the rest of the pipes extend from it like branches. The main pipe is laid from the highest point of the site to the lowest, and the number of branches is "as needed": how swampy the site is and how many decorative objects there are. The main pipe is laid to a depth of 80 cm, and its diameter is 200-250 mm, but the pipes-"branches" are smaller, their diameter is 60-80 mm, and are laid to a depth of 30-40 cm, naturally, with a slope towards the main pipe ... How often and at what angle? Approximately every 8 m and at an angle of 60 degrees. Why also drainage wells? It is not always possible to remove excess water collected by drainage pipes. Either the amount of water is too much, or simply not common system drainage system in your village, because all the collected water must be discharged somewhere. You can make a general drainage yourself if you do not have neighbors, and the area has some natural slope that you can use. And if there is no common system, but there are neighbors? They will naturally be against it. But if you've taken care of the wells, no problem. These wells are arranged at the lowest point of the site and are square pits 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 m. One or two wells are enough for the entire site. Of course, they are under the surface of the soil, a layer of 30 cm is poured on top. Why square? Because the square "caliber" has more capacity! The pit is lined with geotextile and covered with rubble, broken brick, broken tiles and plaster - you can use any such waste. Solution 2. Garden pond. If your site is still not in a swamp and there are no too big problems with water stagnation, then, as a rule, a device on a site of one or several reservoirs already solves the problem. They "pull" excess water, and the site becomes drier.
Solution 3. Adding soil. This is a solution for not too swampy areas. If the situation is assessed as "a little bit", a simple filling of soil, moreover, light, permeable, can help. Solution 4. Fight the shadow. To eliminate high humidity air, make sure that the area is not completely in the shade, you may have to "thin out" excess vegetation.

A wet area is a problem area. Excess ground water destroys the foundations of buildings, squeezes out of the pool bowls from the ground, swells, swells garden paths and sites, perish garden plants... But excess moisture is not the final verdict on a land plot, this problem is completely solvable: such a plot can be drained. If you are just choosing a place for the estate, you should take a closer look at its location before making a purchase. How do you know if the earth is suffering from excessive moisture? First you need to pay attention to what prevails on a given soil. On damp plots they like to grow cattail, meadowsweet, marsh ditches, and alder from trees. You should be alerted by non-drying trees in the absence of rain in the last few days, damp wet soil in lowlands (especially if there is clay soil), the proximity of a pond, swamp, river and even a small stream.

Dampness on the site can also appear after the development of the territory, when the foundations of buildings and fences, retaining walls are in the way of the natural flow of melt and rainwater. The rise of groundwater is often provoked by massive felling of trees on the site and beyond, and watering of peat bogs. When groundwater is closer than 1.8-2.5 m from the earth's surface, only a properly organized drainage system can solve the problem of excessive moisture. The most effective drainage system is common for the entire village or at least for several neighboring plots. At the same time, together with neighbors, you can order a full-fledged soil drainage project. Before dwelling in more detail on drainage systems ah, note that on wetlands, in combination with drainage, other methods of dealing with dampness are also practiced. Clay that does not allow water to pass through is shoveled with sand, the lowlands are raised with imported soil. You can build up not the whole allotment, but part, for example, by pouring it into the right places growing hills fruit trees.

Drainage design is important. If some significant nuance is not taken into account in the process, the consequences can be quite serious and lead, for example, to a house settling or a slope sliding. Before starting to deal with excess moisture in the soil, it is necessary to carry out exploration work. According to the rules, a drainage project is developed on the basis of a topographic survey of the site and the surrounding area, using data on the depth of groundwater, on the structure of the upper soil layer and underlying horizons. The designer must be informed about further plans for the development of the territory - the location of new buildings, reservoirs, capitally paved sites.

The main link of the drainage system is water-collecting canals. They are open and underground. Open ones are ordinary ditches. They are considered dangerous, take up a lot of space and spoil the look of the site. In addition, they have to be constantly cleaned and reinforced around the perimeter of the wall. For device closed drain usually used drains (drainage pipes) made of polyethylene (HDPE, LDPE), polypropylene (PP), polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Drains are light enough, flexible thanks to corrugation. At the same time, they are quite sturdy, which makes it easy to transport and stack. Drainage pipes are single-walled and double-walled. Double-skinned with smooth inside drains are considered more durable, and in addition, they are less clogged.

Modern pipes are often sold wrapped with filter materials. Geotextiles are suitable for peat, sandy and sandy loam soils, while coconut fiber is preferable for clays and loams. For dehumidification suburban areas they use drains with a diameter of 50-200 mm, but the most common diameter is considered to be weaving. The length of the pipes is 25-100 m, they are sold and transported rolled into bays. During the laying, the pieces of the required length are sawed off with a hacksaw, forming the required segment. And they connect the drains to each other using couplings or fittings. More durable, non-bending types of drainage pipes can be found on the market. They are used for laying at great depths. On Russian market drains and other elements of drainage systems of domestic and foreign production are presented. The range of prices for drainage pipes is significant - from 35 to 680 rubles / m. The cost depends on the type of material, the selected diameter, the presence of a protective cover, stiffeners.

The standard drainage system is based on a herringbone pattern, where the "branches" are numerous side drains that collect water throughout the territory, and the "trunk" is the main pipe through which all unnecessary water flows into drainage well or withdrawn from the site. The features of the routing, the number, diameter, slope and depth of the drainage conductors are calculated individually for each section. For example, in a manor house located in the middle part of the slope, it is sometimes enough to intercept the surface runoff of melt and rainwater. To do this, ditches or shallow drains are laid across the slope: the first is in the upper part of the allotment, the rest are below. The canals are located with a slope to the drain, which runs along the slope and removes the water collected from the site below. Side drains are often made thinner than the main (central) one - they are attached to the main branch at the same or different angles. In the places where the drains are connected, small inspection and rotary wells made of plastic or reinforced concrete forms are arranged. They are necessary for system maintenance, but mainly for capturing silt and sand from water. The wells are periodically inspected and cleaned. In addition, drainage is washed through them using a strong pressure of water.

TECHNOLOGY OF WORK
When draining suburban areas, the drainage pipes are buried at a level of 0.8-2.5 m. Excavation associated with the arrangement of drainage, it is most convenient to carry out in the summer during the seasonal lowering of the groundwater level. Drainage, even if the pipes are in a protective cover, must be insured against clogging with filter layers of sand, crushed stone or gravel. A layer of sand is poured at the bottom of the trench, then crushed stone, a drainage pipe is laid on top of the crushed stone and crushed stone is poured again, above - sand and vegetative soil. Perfectly upper layer sand is separated from the underlying layer of rubble by geotextile. Another option for the device of a drainage channel is the use of pipes without winding, but then the entire contents of the ditch (the drain and the surrounding layers of rubble and sand) are enclosed in a geotextile pipe. By the same principle, but without drainage and sand, only with rubble, soft drainage is arranged. The bottom of the trench with a slight approach to side walls spread out with tecton or other non-rotting and water-proof material. Before backfilling the crushed stone, the bottom of the trenched ditches is lined with geotextile, then the crushed stone on the top is covered with free edges of the material overlapping. It turns out something like a pipe of geotextile filled with rubble. This type of drainage is called soft and is not used under paving, but especially under driveways.

DRAINING WELL
The water collected from the entire territory is discharged into a roadside ditch, the nearest ravine, a fire reservoir or a drainage well arranged at the lowest point of the site. The standard volume of the drainage well should be 2-3 cubic meters. m at a depth of 2 m. In spacious and heavily swampy areas, the drainage well is made more spacious or several tanks are arranged at different ends of the estate. If possible, water is pumped into the village drainage, which is nearby, but above the level of the site. If the collected water is planned to be used for irrigation in the future, then the walls of the drainage well must be made waterproof. This type of drainage well is called a water intake and is closed with a strong cover. Another type of drainage well is water absorption. It is made with a water-permeable bottom. The base of the well is covered with broken brick, rubble stone or large crushed granite, geotextiles are laid on top, then sand and earth are poured. Water accumulated in the drainage well for spring or after heavy rains, slowly seeps through the bottom into the lower layers of the soil.

In order to start planting vegetables in the country as early as possible, you need to quickly dry the area, drain excess water, so that the earth warms up and dries out faster and you can plant seedlings. You will learn how to quickly dry a plot in the country in the spring from this article.

What makes the site too wet?

In fact, this question is fundamental and paramount. After all, the choice of your further actions depends on him. And if the solution to the problem does not correspond to the cause of its occurrence, then an inappropriate solution can only be temporary.

Major Major Reasons:

1. Perhaps ground water level on your land plot in the country it is high, and this is what is the reason for the increased humidity on it;
2. Another reason could be the location of the site in the lowlands, which contributes to the collection of rain and melt water in its area;
3. Or too much clay soil and does not allow water to be absorbed in a timely manner.

If the reason is one of the above, then the only solution here is to install a drainage system. The drainage system can be constructed different ways, from the simplest thing - crushed stone filling, to the installation of drainage pipes with water drainage into a separate well.

The easiest option is to dig channels in the direction minimum slope, laying of moisture-permeable material and backfilling of these channels with rubble.

If the reason is heavy snow in winter, and is one-time, or excessive humidity is minimal, then the solution is completely different. And our further advice will undoubtedly help you dry the area.

If in the fall there was no work in the garden at the dacha to prepare the beds, in the spring the water will stand for a very long time and the earth will be poorly warmed up by the sun. It is necessary to carry out some work that will allow the site to warm up faster.

• You can sprinkle sand on the snow or dolomite flour so that it melts faster. As soon as the snow melts, you need to clean all the passages between the beds, ensure the natural drainage of water by digging temporary ditches in the direction of lowering the site, which are then covered with sand.
• You can deepen the passages and throw this land into the beds, make them higher. Pour sand on top with a small layer, which will warm up well in the sun, and it will warm the ground under it in the garden.
• It is better to prepare for spring in the fall, after the harvest. If the soil becomes very waterlogged in the spring, it is better not to dig it up in the fall. Then she will pick up less water and dries out faster in the spring. Better to deepen the aisles, organize surface outlet rainwater outside the site or into a drainage well. The less water there is in the upper horizons, the less plot it will freeze and dry out faster in the spring.
• For a better natural warming up of the plot in the country, the beds are located from east to west, so that the house and a solid blank fence, if possible, do not cover the beds from the sun. It is good if the garden is located on the south side of the house and has a slight slope to the south for better insolation.
• The beds for growing early vegetables must be dried and warmed up as early as possible so that the harvest is already at the beginning of summer. For this they take cover in black plastic wrap, which will accumulate heat underneath and prevent weeds from developing. A second layer of transparent film or spandbond can be pulled over the film over the arcs.

Excess water on summer cottage leads to soil leaching, a decrease in the yield of horticultural crops, deformation of residential and outbuildings. In this case, everyone who is faced with such a problem, it is important to know how to drain the area from water with your own hands.

What influences the choice of dehumidification method

The accumulation of water on the site can occur for many reasons, but the main ones are the following:

• raising the level of groundwater;
• the site is located in lowlands, which contributes to the rapid accumulation of atmospheric precipitation;
• clay and loamy soils with a low coefficient of moisture absorption.

The most problematic places on the site are determined in the off-season, when it falls maximum amount precipitation, - in early spring and late autumn. It is recommended to pump out water from the site during the dry season - in summer.

Rapid drainage of the land is carried out in several ways. When choosing suitable option solving the problem, it is necessary to take into account the main factors:

• type and level of soil permeability;
• the size of the land;
• the optimal level of lowering the waters;
• period of soil drainage from groundwater;
• ready-made buildings on the site requiring drainage;
• direction of underground sources;
• the presence and type of vegetation.

The most demanded methods of land drainage on the site are the drainage system, sewage pits and ditches, elements landscape design, moisture-loving shrubs and trees.

Closed and open drainage systems

Modern drainage systems allow you to quickly and efficiently get rid of excess fluid in the area. A simple drain consists of a piping and a water receiver. A stream, lake, river, ravine or ditch can be used as a water intake.

The drainage system is equipped from the water intake to land plot in compliance optimal distance between its main elements. On dense soils with a high clay content, the distance between individual drains should be 8-10 meters, on loose and heaving soils - up to 18 meters.

Open drainage

An open or French drainage system consists of shallow ditches, the bottom of which is filled with fine gravel and stones. Such drainage can be arranged quite simply: a shallow ditch is dug with the discharge of effluents into a drainage well or a deep trench to the level of occurrence of a sand layer, which is used as a drainage cushion.

A drainage well with a size of 1 × 1 m can have a closed and open structure, its bottom is filled with gravel of a medium fraction and brick strips. Such structures do not clog, but are filled with soil, which is washed out with water. For this reason, it is much more difficult to drain this type of well than an open gutter.

Closed drain

A technically sophisticated device that quickly removes excess water and prevents it from stagnating. Arrangement of closed drainage is carried out using pipes made of clay or asbestos cement with laying in a certain order - in a straight line or herringbone. Drainage closed type suitable for areas with a slight slope, which provides a natural flow of water.

Closed drains are often combined with drainage systems that allow water to be removed from the base of the house.

Sewers and ditches

Many owners choose a fairly simple way to solve the problem of drainage of areas by digging gutters and ditches. Arrangement of a cone-shaped pit is carried out as follows: at the bottom point, you need to dig a pit up to 100 cm deep, up to 200 cm wide at the top and 55 cm at the bottom. The dehumidification system is quite effective, since excess moisture can be discharged into the sewage pits without the use of additional funds.

The process of arranging gutters is more laborious, but no less effective. Ditches are dug along the entire perimeter of the territory - the depth and width is 45 cm. The walls are made at an angle of 25 degrees. The bottom is laid out with bricks or gravel. The main disadvantage of the ditches is their gradual shedding, so it is worthwhile to carry out timely cleaning and strengthening of the walls with boards or concrete slabs.

Landscaping elements - streams and ponds

We effectively get rid of excess water on the site thanks to the arrangement of artificial ponds and streams. Such elements of landscape design can be organized in areas located at a slight slope.

It is better to arrange water sources in dark places to avoid blooming water. Bottom artificial pond laid out with stone or geotextile.

To enhance the effect, moisture-loving vegetation can be planted next to an artificial reservoir - shrubs, plants, grass.

Such landscape forms are structurally reminiscent of the French drainage system, since they are equipped according to the same principle.

Moisture-loving plantings - shrubs, trees and grass

To drain the soil, moisture-loving trees, shrubs and grasses are used, which are able to pump out excess water.

In order for green spaces to remove moisture, you need to know which varieties are recommended to be planted on the site. These plantings include willow, birch, maple, alder and poplar.

Shrubs are no less in demand: hawthorn, dog rose and bladder. In moist soils, hydrangea, irga, spirea, mock orange and Amur lilac develop.

To give the site attractiveness and aesthetics, moisture-loving garden flowers- iris, aquilegia and asters.

Too moist soil is not suitable for growing fruit trees - pears, apples, plums and apricots. Therefore, when choosing trees, it is better to give preference to seedlings with a shallow root system. The planting of trees is carried out on heights up to 55 cm.

To do this, a peg is driven into the soil, the earth around it is dug to a depth of 25 cm. A prepared seedling is tied to the peg, the roots are sprinkled with earth with the addition of humus. The root collar remains exposed up to 8 cm above the ground.

After planting is complete, the seedling is watered abundantly with water to get rid of air spaces between the root system and the soil.

Important! Excessively wet soil has increased acidity, therefore, when draining, it is recommended to additionally lime it. This will improve the quality of the soil for further gardening and household work.

During operation, the condition of the soil on the site is carefully checked, since excess moisture able to provide negative impact for garden crops, residential and outbuildings. The procedure for draining the soil is recommended to be carried out simultaneously with liming.

Now every landowner knows the answer to the question of how to get rid of water on the site and do it right. This will require free time, desire and financial investment.

Too much wet soil Only select cultures grow well. Therefore, many ask the question: how to drain a swampy land?

Stagnation of water in the soil often appears due to the features of the relief, heavy clay-peat soil and the close occurrence of groundwater. Also, the reason for the wet earth can be the lack of drainage and numerous pits in which rain and melt water accumulates. In this case, the site becomes damp mainly in early spring, as well as in summer during lingering rains.

If reeds, calamus, wild rosemary, lingonberries, cranberries and mosses grow on your site, it means that the soil in this area is very moist.

If you do not need to plant vegetables on the site, then at this place you can organize a pond and plant ornamental plants... Otherwise, this terrain needs to be corrected.

Add soil

If the water does not stagnate in the entire area, but in separate "islands", this problem can be solved by leveling the relief and filling the holes with dry and light soil. In this case, it is advisable to make a bias to the side drainage ditch, into which the water will flow.

Build a drainage system

Provides drainage and redistribution of fluid in the area. In the natural environment, excess fluid leaves through sandy and loose soil, along the beds of streams and rivers. But if the soil on the site is too heavy, drainage needs to be done.

The main task is to create voids and slopes that will facilitate fluid flow in the desired direction. Ditches along roads and between sites will be part of the drainage system; a well (the liquid collected in it is convenient to use for watering plants); a well-groomed reservoir (it will not only collect water, but also decorate your site). In addition, the drainage system, consisting of pipes with holes for collecting water, can be hidden in the ground to preserve the decorativeness of the site.

Drainage grooves can be installed along the paths or along the perimeter of the flower garden. Wells with a width of 15-20 cm, lined with pebbles, also look great. They are at the same time an element of decoration and serve to drain rainwater.

Plant moisture-absorbing plants

You are unlikely to be able to agree with the heavenly office to supply your site with less rainfall. It is much more effective to plant plants that absorb moisture. Some trees and shrubs absorb a lot of water from the soil and actively evaporate it through the leaves. Such plants will help drain the wetland.

A wet area is not always a bad thing. If at the dacha you enjoy the beauty of nature, and do not work in the beds, then you can do without draining the territory. Plant moisture-loving plants on the site (iris, fern, swimsuit, rhododendron, spirea), build a reservoir, break up an attractive garden with different kinds mosses. And to make it comfortable for you to walk around your property, and your feet remain dry, arrange elevated paths.