An emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving the ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Clings to the edges with a death grip.

The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of a furniture board.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a manual circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about it in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major repairs or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.

Design - the main nodes, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

• adaptation of an existing hand tool, using an engine and a circular saw for new opportunities;
• improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
• assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.

A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

For a homemade circular, the engine from the washing machine is well suited. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.

The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work on a lathe is performed in one setup, then, together with the working bodies, the centering is checked. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.

Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission

The characteristics of the saw blade, the engine and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

For working with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.

1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.

The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the dimensions to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.

First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.

At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the sides with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

• loosen the nuts on the racks;
• turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
• tighten the stud nuts;
• perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and can be processed well. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disc so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric planer and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the countertop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.

We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the sides of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a restrictive bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.

Some moments of the execution of home-made devices

No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.

On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect to install a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

For any home craftsman, having their own stationary sawing machine is time saving and safe work.

You can buy a ready-made stationary circular. The cost of small machines starts from 9,000 rubles, more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.

Despite the apparent complexity of the design, any craftsman with elementary locksmith skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process it is possible to add functions that are not provided by the manufacturer.

What is a circular saw for?

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a sturdy table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. Such options are popular in rural areas.

Circular for working with logs

Of course, there can be no question of any safety and functionality when using such a device.

In some of these "models" there is a shaft for fixing the knives of a planer or jointer. As a rule, a bed is cooked from a corner or a channel, an electric motor is fixed on it from a decommissioned factory ventilation, and with the help of a pulley, the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.

Another thing is if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.

Since such a stationary saw can work with small workpieces, it is necessary to take care of the safety of the operator. It is desirable to provide for the adjustment of the rotation speed and the possibility of easy change of discs with different diameters.

Be sure to install a protective cover over the disk, and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the stop button is placed in an accessible place and is made large.

Don't miss in an accident

How to make a circular, keeping a balance between economy, functionality and safety

Consider the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but with certain skills and tools.

The frame can be made from a metal corner (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the funds, contact the metal rolling warehouse. Legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.

A good option for a homemade frame made of rolled metal

IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, because due to vibration, such a mount will unwind.

Electricity must be used. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the frame (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must be with steel rims and have locks. The higher the mass of the bed, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

A circular saw is a specialized piece of equipment that is used for sawing wood, laminate, some types of wall panels, sheet materials such as plywood, OSB, chipboard. When carrying out a number of construction and repair work and carpentry operations, the presence of a stationary type sawing machine can significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of the result. If it is not possible to purchase a factory-made model, then you can assemble a circular saw with your own hands. To make it yourself, you will need the most common locksmith tools and the skill to work with them. The more necessary materials and parts are available, the cheaper the project will be.

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large amounts of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is shown in the diagram below. It also indicates basic installation dimensions, from which it is recommended to build on self-assembly.

In the drawing, the following structural elements of home-made equipment correspond to the numbers:

• 1 - frame (bed);
• 2 - side panel;
• 3 - starting device;
• 4 - mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 - its stops;
• 5, 6 and 7 - two halves of the sawing table with a base;
• 8 - electric motor;
• 9 - platform for installing the motor;
• 10 - studs (M10);
• 11 - saw;
• 12 - shaft;
• 14 and 16 - driven and driving pulleys, respectively;
• 15 - belt;
• 17 - switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a prominent place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to fix the drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot in the table for it of the appropriate size. This will expand the functionality of the created installation: planing lumber on it, chamfering and choosing a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations on home-made equipment, then it is recommended to equip it with coordinate table with multiple guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, you should also provide for the possibility of regulating the speed of the electric motor and quickly replacing disks if necessary.

Selection of materials and details

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, it is necessary to select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to build on old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for the manufacture of a bed with a table

For the manufacture of the frame (frame), you can use channel or metal corners(enough size from 25x25mm to 50x50mm). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. Water pipes or profile pipes made of metal will go to the legs of the machine.

Advice! The frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because the bolted connections are untwisted under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also required to weld spacers at the corners to stiffen the structure. To facilitate the movement of the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a circular table are: resistance to mechanical stress (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness. These properties are characterized by sheets of the following materials:

• become;
• duralumin;
• silumin;
• textolite;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• organic glass.

If use moisture resistant plywood, then it should first be upholstered with zinc-coated tin. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration effects.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or is skewed due to deflection, the disc may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, spreading logs on boards), you need to equip a table side stop. It performs the same function as the guide rail for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures smooth sawing of lumber. At the same time, its use allows obtaining blanks of different sizes.

Guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed with clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Choice of engine and starting equipment

As a drive for the considered version of a home-made circular machine, it is easiest to use single-phase electric motor. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

• if it is 350 mm, then for the normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
• for a disc with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is enough.

In the latter case, it is possible to make a drive mechanism from an engine from a washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For discs with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be fixed rigidly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibrations by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly fluctuate.

You can also equip homemade equipment three-phase electric motor(at 380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install a working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors in the electrical circuit. It should also be borne in mind that the engine power in this case will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk is jammed. It is better to install protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine from a convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires are not shorted to the frame of a homemade circular saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, the electrical part must be well protect from getting wet. The simplest is to cover the unit with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Transmission, shaft and disc

To transfer rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use V-belt together with pulleys from the car engine. Gears are not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear transmission, due to its rigidity, can cause the entire drive unit to fail.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, then it will be possible to change the speed of the disk and install various types of it on the machine. This is true in the absence of a motor speed controller.

Shaft manufacturing it is better to entrust a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Especially when it is planned to make the circular saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a planer. But the easiest option is to buy a finished factory-made part. Her sample is shown in the photo below.

Disc for circular machine it is easier to buy ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is balancing. The imbalance of the saw during the operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If there is a circular saw for wood, then you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the blade matches the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber being cut: for example, for 100 mm logs, you will need to use a saw with a size of approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement leads not only to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Algorithm for assembling a homemade circular saw

The assembly of the woodworking machine according to the previously given drawing is performed in the following sequence:

• from the corners make a rectangular frame;
• four legs are welded to it at the corners of the desired height;
• at a height of about 200 mm from their lower edge, they make a harness from the corners;
• a shaft is mounted on the upper frame;
• a driven pulley is fixed on one side of it, and a disk on the other;
• a table with a lifting mechanism is made and attached to the frame;
• on the lower frame, a platform is made of corners or sheet metal for an electric motor;
• a drive pulley is fixed on the motor shaft;
• put the belt on the pulleys;
• on the side panel of the unit, on and off buttons and an electrical panel are mounted;
• using wires of a suitable section, connect the elements of the electrical circuit of the equipment (motor, buttons, protection);
• supply power to the machine from a fixed network.

The final step is checking the performance of the assembled equipment. To begin with, it is worth making sure that all moving parts rotate freely: for this, just twist the drive pulley by hand. Then you can run the unit in test mode. If a strong vibration is detected, then it will be necessary to check the reliability of the bolted connections and the fixation of the disk.

You can make a circular saw with a table consisting of two halves or one piece. In the latter case, it will need to cut a rectangular slot for the disk. The design of the machine with a table consisting of two halves is shown in the video below. Also in this video, the device of the lifting mechanism for these parts is demonstrated.

Important! To prevent the saw from jamming due to the connection of fragments of the workpiece being cut, it is recommended to install a riving knife. It should be positioned at a distance of approximately 3 mm behind the disc.

To adjust the belt tension, the motor must be installed so that it can be moved. The easiest way to achieve this is to create larger slots than are required for the motor mounting bolts. In this case, the expansion of the holes must be carried out in the direction of the belt tension.

If you follow the drawing completely, you will need to make a more complex belt tension mechanism. The process will be carried out by pulling up the platform with the electric motor with the help of studs and fixing it with locking bolts in the desired position (in the drawing, these structural elements are indicated by the number 10).

The entire design and assembly process can be greatly simplified if circular saw blade. In this case, the need to mount a number of parts (motor, disk, shaft, belt, starter) is eliminated. But the capabilities of the created model will be limited by the power of the tool used.

Homemade circular anyway must be grounded. It is also recommended to install a residual current device or a differential circuit breaker in the shield. These measures will protect against electric shock if the machine body is energized, for example, due to a breakdown in wire insulation. Components for the electrical part of the circular machine are best chosen so that they are suitable for repair and easy to maintain. Free access to equipment nodes will help to replace failed parts without any problems.

A circular saw is required in private households quite often, but it is not at all necessary to buy an expensive tool for this. You can make a circular saw with your own hands from improvised means.

Basic materials and tools

To create a circular saw, you will need materials:

• pipe (45 mm);
• channel;
• corner "4" and "6";
• boards 30 mm wide;
• metal sheet up to 8 mm thick.

Of the nodes you will need:

• engine;
• bearings.

In the work you can not do without tools and materials:

• jigsaw;
• impeller;
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• scotch;
• a hammer;
• wire cutters;
• pliers;
• tape measure and triangle-ruler.

How to do it yourself?

A circular electric saw for wood can be made with your own hands from various devices. There is an important condition: you should have the skills to work with metal.

From Bulgarian

It is not difficult to make a home-made stationary circular saw at home. First of all, you should decide on the project, draw a diagram and make a drawing. The differences between stationary and desktop homemade circular saws are the height of the base. Before assembling the tool, you should think about creating a "table". It is usually made of wood (board thickness - 3 cm) and covered with tin or aluminum sheet. Also for these purposes, a steel sheet up to 6 mm thick can be suitable. Crossbars are made from a corner (up to 80 mm).

The working disk protrudes beyond the table, usually by 35%, that is, for a beam with a thickness of 120 mm, the diameter of the disk should be 370 mm, respectively. The power plant will need 1000 watts (possibly more). If the blanks are more massive, then a home-made circular may not “take” them. The emphasis is created from the “8” corner - this is a fairly massive and durable structure that can withstand quite significant loads. The emphasis extends beyond the boundaries of the table by 4-5 cm. One shelf is processed on both sides, the remainder in this case should be equal to the length of the table.

A very important node is the shaft - it is best to take it ready-made. If you have the skills to work on a lathe, then turning such a part is not very difficult. You will need to buy bearings with protection. The pulley is better to put V-belt. As an engine, a power plant from a refrigerator or washing machine may be suitable. Capacitors are usually installed in oil-paper.

After it was possible to assemble the machine from improvised means, it should be tested without any loads. All elements must "get used" to each other in order to work in a single complex. During testing, some flaws may appear, they will need to be eliminated. For a homemade circular, the engine from a washing machine can be ideal.

Such power plants operate from a 220 volt network, they have good efficiency and an acceptable rotation ratio. If you install a three-phase engine (it is powered by 380 volts), you will have to buy additional capacitors to reformat the unit to 220 volts. Sometimes they use units with a gasoline engine - such power plants have good efficiency, are unpretentious during operation.

The most important element in a homemade unit is the shaft. It can be carved independently from a metal ingot. It is not difficult to make such an element on a lathe. At the same time, it is important to observe the centering of the part, so that then there is no unnecessary vibration of the mechanism. Special grooves are machined on the shaft, where the saw blade and pulleys will be attached. Sometimes recesses are also machined for attaching knives. The size of the saw blade itself is directly related to the power of the engine. The diameter should be 3.5 times the thickness of the product. There are also verified calculations: for 110 mm of material thickness, an engine power of 1 kW will be required.

Craftsmen often make a circular saw along with a jointer on the same base. Both tools in this case can work from the same engine. The jointer is able to clean the wooden surface to a mirror finish, its presence in combination with a circular saw is more than appropriate.

From a hand saw

It is also easy to assemble a circular saw from a hand saw. The sliding stop can be made from corners that are mounted on both sides of the rotating element (disk with teeth). The width of the slot is usually up to 5 millimeters. All edges must be processed so that they are slightly rounded. All corners are made with crossbars, which should firmly bind them. Bolts with nuts can be used as fasteners.

A metal clamp should be attached to the body. The screw tie is mounted at the bottom of the unit. The collar (thickness up to 2 mm) in conjunction with the rear rack is a single unit that can withstand significant loads. The stop is fixed in the back of the unit. The washers that create the gap can be moved by adjusting the size of the slot between the disc and the stop sides.

It is best to do the transmission with linorems - if a foreign object gets in, then when jammed, such pulleys will slip, which eliminates the possibility of injury. A pulley with large dimensions is placed on the engine, a pulley with a smaller diameter is placed on the shaft for the circular - in this ratio, the optimal number of revolutions is achieved.

From a chainsaw

To make a circular saw from a chainsaw, you will need a metal canopy that will be mounted to the saw body. The engine is already available, so making the unit will not be very difficult. You will also need two channels with dimensions of 185x8000 mm. You will also need corners (55 x 100 mm) and two trimming rails that turn their soles up. Holes of 16 mm are drilled at the base of the sawmill, there should be a distance of one meter between them.

Ties are made from a pipe (length - 255 mm). The structure is fastened with bolts. Racks are made separately, the sawmill body will be attached to them. It is important to ensure that all elements do not have deformation. The distance between the racks should be no more than one meter. Then the sawmill is equipped with a movable carriage. It is made of a steel sheet 620x55 mm, corners are welded to the metal from below. Small bearings are mounted on the trolley. Two corners should also be welded at the top, a chainsaw is attached to them. Then a holder is made, which will work as a latch for a beam or log.

You will need a pipe with a diameter of 45 mm. To work, you will need a hose that will be mounted at a given height, which should not be greater than the length of the pipe itself. This is how a sawmill is made. It is possible to process on such a unit a bar or a log of any section.

From a drill

The drill is a versatile tool from which you can make such units:

• drilling mini-unit;
• lathe;
• mower;
• turbine.

Locksmiths in the service station even make winches from drills to lift quite bulky loads. The drill is also actively used in construction, in particular in painting work. Farmers often use a drill to install seedlings into the ground. The circular from the drill will be compact. To create a tool, you will need the following elements:

• bases from a board 2-3 cm thick;
• vertical supports;
• shaft on which the disk is mounted;
• electric drive in the form of a drill.

Instead of a board, you can also use chipboard sheets with a thickness of at least 30 millimeters. On such material, a rectangle measuring 310x255 mm should be cut. Also for the desktop you will need a duralumin sheet 5 mm thick. Such a material is good in that it has an acceptable stiffness coefficient and at the same time low weight. A hole measuring 165x12 mm is cut in the place marked with a marker.

The fasteners of the drill itself can also be made by hand. A saw shaft assembly can be easily found on any construction market. During operation, a lot of dust will occur, so you should look for a bearing with protection - this will significantly prolong the service life. A circular saw from a drill is assembled according to a standard algorithm:

• all the main parts are attached to the base;
• then the table is mounted;
• the drill is connected, test tests are made.

The equipment requires compliance with safety regulations:

• the place of work should be cleared;
• the workpiece should work smoothly, without any delay;
• the machine must be equipped with a protective screen;
• garbage should not accumulate on the machine, it should be removed in time;
• it is necessary to do a preventive inspection of the unit, to lubricate it.

Such a mechanical device makes it possible to process not only wooden products. If you put good cutters, then you can work with non-ferrous metals, PVC, chipboard, bars.

Homemade fixtures

It is not so difficult to make a circular saw, problems can arise when fitting knots. Choosing the right elements so that they work flawlessly is an important task. The shaft must have self-adjusting bearings if the unit is used daily. The bearings themselves are best selected with two rows of balls that will be adjusted with a clamping nut.

The work surface must necessarily have a "grid"-markup. Without this coordinate system, accurate woodworking is quite difficult. Do not neglect the protective cover - during operation, it reliably protects the device from mechanical damage. A circular saw operates in different modes when working with different materials, so it is desirable to have a device that controls such a process. Several grooves should be made on the shaft so that it is possible to rearrange the pulleys, thus changing the speed.

Parallel stop - a necessary device for working with overall workpieces. You can make them yourself from plywood, boards or chipboard. The stop value usually does not exceed 25 mm. The stop is fastened with self-tapping screws or bolts.

When you have to cut bars or make several cuts from different directions, you need an emphasis that has a “P” configuration. At its base lies a board 30 mm thick. Sidewalls 12 mm thick are screwed to the base. Thus, the stop is installed on a beam, the size of which from the point of the cut corresponds to the size to the cutting disc. From two sides, it is pressed against the beam with clamps. If the beam is too massive, then it is rearranged and another cut is made.

There is also an edge stop, which is in demand. To make it, it takes a lot of time and a good qualification of the master. Be sure to make a drawing diagram before starting work. This emphasis is made of plywood (20 mm), and the thrust bar is also made of this material. Production phases:

• longitudinal grooves for dowels are cut;
• dowels are mounted on a thrust bar;
• between the grooves made, another groove is cut to secure the thrust bar;
• another hole is made at the base, its size corresponds to the saw cutter of the circular saw;

Sidewalls-limiters are mounted, and there must be clamps in order to securely fix it. To put emphasis on the workpiece, the bar moves in the grooves and is fixed through the slot with clamps. It is best to immediately fix the ruler or tape measure on the bed - this makes the job much easier. The pusher is convenient for working with small workpieces - it allows you to fix the part on both sides, which ensures accuracy in work. It is also important to do:

• elevator;
• wedging knife;
• lifting mechanism.

If a three-phase engine (380 volts) is placed on the machine, then capacitors that can withstand a minimum voltage of 620 volts will certainly be required. These devices may be paper-based.

Capacitors are calculated according to the following scheme: 1000 watts account for 100 microfarads for a working type capacitor. The capacity of the starting capacitor must be ordered twice as large. It should be remembered that the SB starting block is a device that automatically returns to its original position. This is very convenient, because literally in a matter of seconds after the start, you can start the workflow.

• you can not work with wood in which there are metal fragments (nails, self-tapping screws, etc.);
• material marking is possible only if there are special clamps or substrates (this is especially true for long boards and timber);
• boards and timber from two meters long must be handled by two people;
• when working with the disc, no sudden movements or shocks should be used, otherwise the device may jam, it may break;
• if the material has dimensions from 42 cm, then it is recommended to use a special pusher;
• if the wood is heterogeneous (there are branches and knots), then it must be dissolved before work;
• gloves should always be used: both during operation and when cleaning the unit;
• do not accumulate wood waste on the machine - this may cause a fire or a short circuit.

The machine must not be operated under the following circumstances:

• no guide rail;
• no casing;
• too wide gap (from 10 mm);
• there are no fuses (wedging cutter, holding fingers) that protect the worker from a broken workpiece;
• the height of the riving knife exceeds the height of the saw blade (from 6 mm), the distance of its installation (17-110 mm).

The machine must have a chip collector. Be sure to wear protective goggles while working. When changing elements on the machine, it must be de-energized.

How to make a circular saw with your own hands, see the following video.