The 3×6 barn is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on , now I decided to add another one. This time a barn with a shed roof.

For starters, the foundation. Since the site is located on the banks of the Volga-mother (the upper earthen layer, and under it - river sand), I decided to pour a concrete foundation. I dug holes 600x600x600 mm in the amount of eight pieces. Mixed concrete and poured into ready-made pits. I installed reinforcement in the concrete (vertically upwards) in order to then attach the platform for the shed to it.

I made the platform out of bricks - I laid out the brickwork, the next day I measured it by level and added cement mortar where needed to make it even.

After drying, I began to assemble the lower frame of the barn.

For this, a board 50x200x6000 mm was used. The vertical racks of the frame are made of boards 50×100 mm. Here is a photo of the finished barn frame:

As for the roof: 8 rafters were needed for a 6 by 3 barn. I took rafters 50x150x5000 mm. On the rafters, cuts are made, fastening to the frame with nails. It can be fixed with metal corners, but it seemed more convenient. Here is the rafter attachment scheme:

And here is a closer photo of the rafters:

I didn’t do the crate, because the roof is 2500 mm galvanized. It took 2 galvanized sheets with a slight overlap on the roof.

Shed shed from edged boards 25x150 mm. The overlap is about 2.5cm. Fastened with 90mm galvanized nails. I decided to paint the board right away, before sheathing. It seemed to be easier that way. And when the board dries up, unpainted areas will not be visible.

At the front of the barn, I first tried on the door, then began to sheathe it with a board.

If anyone is interested, I painted with Azure paint, V33 impregnation. Bought in Leroy, it took fifteen liters to the barn. I applied 2 layers. Looks like good paint.

And here are the final photos of the barn 6 by 3 meters:

It took about a week of unhurried work to build the barn. Over the winter, the barn stood normally, no problems were found.

Not a single cottage or private house can do without a place that requires the storage of household equipment. The solution to this problem is the barn.

And in order for it to meet all the requirements for storage and ease of construction, the best option is a barn with a shed roof.

Choosing a place for a barn

To choose the most suitable location for the hozblok, you need to be guided by the following rules:

• Make a choice in favor of a piece of land that is not intended for growing agricultural plants;
• The place should not be located in a lowland, otherwise all rainwater will constantly flood the barn;
• Engineering communications could be brought to the site;
• It is desirable that the place is located on the south or southwest side.

Do not ignore areas with uneven terrain or on a slope. All this can be leveled either with earthen masses or sand, or, in subsequent work, with a foundation.

Drawing of a shed roof

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials, as well as with further construction, it is necessary to develop a drawing.

What is the drawing for?

The drawing will be needed for some important data:

• It will give a complete picture of the stages of construction and the necessary resources, with all shapes and sizes. This is such a graphic guide for all stages of construction, both for the contractor and for the customer;
• The drawing will allow you to make an estimate, as well as purchase the necessary materials. Costs will be under control.

Find ready-made or do it yourself?

The solution to this issue depends on several factors:

• Customer requirements that meet his needs;
• The area or configuration of the selected site;
• Design decision.

If there are no specific requirements, besides, the future utility block does not claim to be unique, it is much easier to use a typical ready-made drawing.

For example like below:

Construction works

After the site is selected, as well as the drawing is ready, you can proceed directly to work.

Set of tools

No specific types of tools are required. The set is quite simple, and we also use it quite often in the household:

• Chain saw;
• Drill;
• Screwdriver;
• Plane;
• Hacksaw for wood;
• The chisel is wide;
• Axe;
• The hammer is big;
• Hammer medium;
• Roulette 10m;
• Level;
• Spade bayonet.

Foundation

It is enough to make a frame type with a pitched roof columnar.

To install it, it is advisable to follow the following sequence:

1️⃣ First of all, you need to move the axes (create markup).

For this:

• take a tape measure, mark the contour by hammering sharpened wooden pegs or steel bars into the ground at the corners with a hammer. And for better tension of the rope, drive in between them;
• Pull the rope over these pegs;
• Check the diagonals of the resulting rectangle with a tape measure. They must be equal, and the angles must be straight;

2️⃣ Dig holes near each peg in size 400*400*500mm;
3️⃣ On the side surfaces (poke and spoons) of each brick, apply bituminous mastic for waterproofing. This must be done before laying in the ground, so that during further work to avoid the inconvenience of applying when the posts are ready;
4️⃣ Pour a sand and gravel mixture of approximately 150-200mm into each hole, which is compacted;
5️⃣ Now you can start laying brick pillars. It is enough to complete it in 1 brick, fastening the bricks together with cement mortar. The posts should protrude above the ground by about a height of 2 bricks.;
6️⃣ Check the evenness in height of all the columns with each other using the building level. And the evenness along the axes is possible by means of a cord.

Frame assembly

Before embarking on the manufacture of the frame, all lumber must be treated with an antiseptic, as well as a fire retardant.

After impregnation, you can proceed as follows:

1. Put 2 layers of roofing felt on brick posts smeared with bituminous mastic on top;
2. Along the perimeter, including intermediate supports, install a base from a bar. You should get a grid;
3. Install pins with a diameter of 12 mm in the butt joints. To do this, drill a hole of the same diameter in the center to the foundation;
4. Now you need to drill similar holes in the bars, which will become racks;
5. Next, you need to install them on the pins, attaching them to the base with self-tapping screws through steel equal-shelf corners;
6. Level the verticality of the racks on all sides and temporarily fix with a board 15–20 mm thick, which will serve as a strut;
7. Now you need to combine the supports along the long sides at the top. For this purpose, put the beam-beam on top of the racks, strengthening with self-tapping screws together with the other corners;
8. Then you need to connect the supports in width. Before proceeding, it is advisable to attach the corner to the rack in advance, on the high side. Thus, the connecting beam will only have to be put on this corner and screwed with self-tapping screws. Drive a nail, 200 - 250 mm long, through the rack into the end of the connecting beam.
9. The frame is ready.

To continue the construction of the building, it is better to first mount the floor:

⭕️ Prepare a finished floorboard of the right size, and then cut holes in them for racks in the right places;
⭕️ Lay each board along the length on the lower base, attaching to it with nails or self-tapping screws;
⭕️ Nail from the end of the bottom trim of the board 100 * 40mm around the perimeter to close it, and also set the evenness of the walls for further plating.

Roof

The roof is designed as a shed, so the frame racks have already been mounted based on this: one side is shorter than the other.

Shed roof slope

The slope of the roof depends on the type of roofing. Usually for outbuildings, it is selected from various kinds of corrugated materials: asbestos-cement - slate, bituminous - ondulin, metal - profiled sheet. For all of them, the average angle of inclination is 20° or 36%.

To find out how much higher one side is - this is the value of the height of the ridge, you need to use a simple formula.

Namely: divide the width (span) in half and multiply by the value of the tangent of the angle of inclination, which is taken from the Bradis table or calculated by a calculator.

Calculation of materials for a pitched roof

All materials depend on the dimensions of the hozblok:

• Rafter. They are usually made of boards 100 * 40mm. Their length is calculated as the ratio of the width of the barn to the cosine of the angle of inclination (or you can use the Pythagorean theorem to calculate the hypotenuse of a right triangle) plus an overhang (500mm on the main facade / 300mm on the back). Rafter pitch 500-700mm. Thus, the total number in cubes is obtained by multiplying the length by the size and by the step;
• Crate. According to the norms, for her, an unedged board 100 * 25mm is taken. Its length is the length of the barn plus an overhang of about 300mm. The pitch of the lathing depends on the roofing material, so it is better to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, for ondulin, at an angle of inclination of 20 °, a step of 610 mm. But on the ridge, ribs and overhangs, the crate should be solid with a width of 250 - 300 mm;
• Additional racks to strengthen the roof. You can use the boards that were taken for the rafters. Their number is 2 pcs. One on each side. They will become a kind of continuation of the intermediate supports, about 2/3 of the size of the ridge;
• Overhang lining. It is also made from boards 100 * 40mm. Their number: 1. Barn length plus overhang on one side; 2. Shed width plus overhang on one side.

Roof installation

1. Install the boards of the rafter legs on the edge, connecting them to the beams of the upper trim with self-tapping screws obliquely. Additionally, drive a nail 250 mm long from above into the leg from another rib perpendicular to the beam;
2. Lay the crate flat on top of the rafter legs, starting from the overhangs, where it is solid. Attach to the rafters with 2 nails or self-tapping screws;
3. Next, you need to strengthen the roof structure. For this purpose, put a board 2/3 of the height of the ridge at the place where the intermediate support ends, fastening obliquely with a self-tapping screw to a beam on one side and a rafter leg on the other;
4. Now you need to hem the overhang from the bottom, and also close the rafters with a board from the end. Fasten each board to the rafters with 2 nails or self-tapping screws as was done with the boards of the crate;
5. The final stage is to cover the roof with the selected roofing material.

wall cladding

The walls are sheathed with board 100*25 or 150*25mm upwards. First of all, it is nailed with nails long 80–90 mm to the frame posts, a board with an overlap of 25–30 mm to the bottom end board.

• Before assembling the frame, prepare the bars for docking with each other. The most convenient and simple in half a tree. To do this, mark with a pencil and carefully cut out unnecessary parts. Then remove the excess with a chisel;
• In order not to catch splinters, it is better to process wooden parts with a planer from all sides;
• It is better to fasten the floorboards to the base obliquely. So, then it will be possible to level them with a planer and avoid cuts during operation;

A personal plot requires the presence of outbuildings for storing gardening equipment, tools, keeping pets or poultry. No one demands architectural sophistication or functional complexity from this structure - everything should be simplified to a minimum, but serve reliably and for a long time. Therefore, a barn with a shed roof is the most popular building among summer residents, since its construction, maintenance and use require minimal costs and time.

The shed roof for the shed was not chosen by chance - this design uses the simplest rafter system - the rafter legs rest on the upper beam of the barn strapping with their lower end, easier - in the Mauerlat. A simple shed roof on a barn is a classic of country and garden management, where rafter beams are attached to the walls of the barn with different heights.

Wooden shed with pitched roof

Due to the difference in height between the walls, a slope is formed, which serves as the basis for the arrangement of the roof. The slope can also be obtained not by the difference in the height of the walls, but by the following methods:

1. Make a cantilever wooden frame above the barn wall, serving as a support for the ridge beam, on which the upper ends of the rafters will be laid;
2. Make beam trusses in the form of a triangle with a right angle, the long leg of which is attached to the harness, and the rafter serves as the hypotenuse. The slope of a shed roof is made with an angle of ≤80, so the roofing can be equipped with any roofing building materials - rolled, sheet, piece.

If there is a need to make the slope greater, with a slope of 10-250, it is better to take sheets of profiled or smooth metal (profiled sheeting, metal tiles) to cover the roof.

Construction of a barn with a shed roof step by step

One of the options for the frame of the barn is a box on skids. This mobile structure can always be moved to the desired or more convenient place on the site.

Shed with pitched roof

If a mobile structure is not for your household, then you can build a barn on a shallow reinforced concrete slab or put it on shallow concrete blocks - it depends on the characteristics of the soil under the barn.

The construction process itself consists of the following steps:

• Foundation arrangement: this is a wooden frame with skids made of thick timber with a section of 100 x 100 mm. For the frame, a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm is used. Inside, the frame is reinforced with a transverse bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm, which is attached to self-tapping screws or nails every 1 m, the joints are duplicated with steel corners;

wooden frame barn

• Floor arrangement. The floor is made of five-layer plywood, OSB or chipboard 16-20 mm thick. After laying the plywood, it is additionally fastened from above with one more timber trim;
• The erection of the front and rear walls of the barn frame. All walls are made of plywood 16-20 mm or planed board 20-25 mm thick. In the right places, window and door openings from a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm are equipped. In order for the parallels of the ends of the openings to coincide with the slope of the roof, the upper ends of the beams are cut off at an angle of 17.50. Reinforcing racks on the walls of the barn are temporarily fixed with crossbars and braces. After checking the verticality of the racks with a level, they can be attached with corners to the frame. The ends of the remaining racks above the openings are connected by the rear board of the upper trim;
• The construction of the side walls of the barn. The sides have one reinforcing rack in the center of the wall;
• Rafters with a section of 50 x 80 mm for a shed roof are cut according to a template that is made from cutting boards. It is necessary that the angle of the cut of the rafter beam coincides with the angle of the roof;
• Do-it-yourself installation of rafters under the roof should be above the wall beam in order to be attached to it with nails or self-tapping screws;
• The wind board is mounted after wall cladding, its cross section is 25 x 100 m;
• The crate is made of moisture-resistant plywood 12 mm thick;

Arrangement of the roof of a shed roof, floor and walls of the barn

• The waterproofing layer is equipped with a membrane film, roofing material or polyethylene. The rolled material is laid along long walls from the bottom up, with overlapping seams by 10-15 cm. So rainwater or snow will not get inside the shed.
• To lay the roof, use a profiled sheet, plastic or ordinary slate, metal tiles, roofing material, galvanized sheet metal, a board no more than 10-15 mm thick;
• Door and window openings are upholstered with a board with a section of 25 x 100 mm (jamb);
• The last step is hanging doors and installing windows.

Schematic diagram and dimensions of a barn with a pitched roof

If you need to build a barn with your own hands with small dimensions and weight, then you can not install it on the foundation, but fix it to the ground with reinforcing bars ≈ 500 mm long, driven into the ground through holes in the frame.

Construction of a stationary barn with a shed roof

A stationary building is a do-it-yourself barn with a shed roof made of brick, cinder block or light grades of cellular concrete (foam concrete, aerated concrete or gas silicate blocks). Even for such a more solid structure, it makes no sense to build a powerful foundation - you can simply lay several powerful reinforced concrete blocks on the ground in several rows. The area for laying blocks is pre-leveled, a sand-gravel cushion is made and rammed.

block foundation

Construction of a brick shed with a shed roof:

1. On the equipped foundation, the corners of the walls are laid out with a height of 4-5 bricks. Then you can lay the walls on a cement-sand mortar. For the floor, wooden logs with a section of 150 x 150 mm in increments of 1 m are laid on the base. Boards or plywood are laid on the logs;
2. For doors and windows, dressing is made of a wooden tarred beam, reinforced concrete puffs or a metal channel;
3. For a shed roof, the back wall of the shed must be lower than the front so that the slope angle is at least 80;
4. An upper trim made of timber with a section of 100 x 100 mm (Mauerlat) is attached to the walls. The beam is attached to the walls by putting it on the reinforcement through pre-drilled holes. The reinforcement itself is laid vertically into the wall at the level of 3-4 rows from the top of the wall. Also, the beam can be tied with steel wire embedded in the wall during its construction;
5. A cantilever frame is assembled on the Mauerlat, the upper part of these racks is sawn off at the right angle to get a shed roof;
6. The rafter system is made in the same way as for a wooden shed, according to a template and with appropriate fasteners;
7. A wooden crate is laid on the rafter system, which is protected by a waterproofing layer. Roofing is laid on top of the waterproofing: metal tiles, profiled roofing sheets, etc.
8. The walls of the barn can be sheathed with siding, lining, or plastered;
9. Construction is completed by hanging doors and installing windows. From the inside, the truss system is closed with plywood or boards.

Mauerlat with a grillage for a shed roofRoof slope with truss trusses

Any construction can be applied extraordinary solutions. For a barn with a shed roof, ready-made truss trusses can be considered such a solution - it is fast, safe, accurate and reliable, since the entire structure is assembled on the ground. Also, the finished design can simply be bought.

Ready-made trusses for a pitched roof

If we are building a non-budget barn, then this solution will help not only speed up construction, but also ensure sufficient design accuracy, which means reliability and durability of the roof - after all, it is easier to install ready-made trusses than to make calculations and mount the roof above the ground.

Shed roof from prefabricated trusses

The main advantage of finished truss trusses is manifested in the minimization of lateral loads from the roof on the walls of the barn: expansion forces have a very negative effect on the strength of the bearing walls of any design. When using trusses, lateral loads are distributed and extinguished inside the truss system, so the shed frame itself does not experience any loads.

Another plus of roof trusses is that they are mounted on walls of the same height, which greatly simplifies the entire construction. At the same time, replacing finished farms with home-made ones is not difficult, since all work on the manufacture and assembly of the farm is carried out on the ground. The main thing is to observe a right angle in a triangular farm.

The truss beam serves as the hypotenuse of the rafter triangle, but sometimes the truss is laid on a pre-prepared support. The floor beam in such a shed roof is a long leg of a rectangle, and its short side works as a cantilever frame assembled from the ends of the trusses.

If you increase the angle of inclination of the roof more than 80, then the cost of building materials will increase - timber for the rafter system and roofing. If the angle of inclination is reduced, then the cost of waterproofing will increase, since it will be necessary to lay several layers of a moisture-proof coating, as well as additionally protect complex sections of the roof from rain and snow.

Despite their simple, uncomplicated design, shed roofs are in demand, rational, especially for country housing construction. Roofs with one slope are also widely used for arranging garages, adjoining buildings, and outbuildings. You will learn how to build a pitched roof with your own hands step by step below.

Multi-pitched roof options are complex in design, and a single-pitched roof is quite accessible for do-it-yourself construction, since it is, in fact, a rectangle that is located in one plane and has no bends. On a shed, by the way, you will need much less building materials than any other, it will be more resistant to seasonal manifestations (snow, wind, rain).

Shed roof garage construction Benefits of a pitched roof:

• light weight;
• relatively acceptable total cost;
• affordable, uncomplicated installation process;
• the possibility of using various building materials (roofing, rafters);
• accessible arrangement of the drainage system, chimneys.

Shed roof chicken coop Despite its simplicity, a shed roof can be very creatively played up in design solutions. The angle of its slope directly depends on the climatic features of the region where you live. If you are used to snowy winters, then the degree of inclination should be greater (so that the snow slides off better), but if your house is located in a windy place, then the slope should be made smaller. For the same reasons, the slope of a shed roof should be directed in the direction opposite to the facade, so that the precipitation "leaves" behind the house.

The roof is shed, erected by hand step by step, it can be ventilated and non-ventilated type. The first option is used for residential buildings, the slope varies from 8 to 25 degrees. In such cases, air exchange is provided by an insulating layer and special openings located on the sides of the roof.

Outbuilding - garage and shed with shed roof The non-ventilated version is often installed in garages, sheds, outbuildings to the house, their slope angle is mostly small - 3-6 degrees.

The calculation of a schematic drawing of a future home begins with determining the required angle of inclination and a suitable covering material for the roof. Most often, for such shed structures, corrugated board, metal profile, roofing material, tile, slate, metal tile or ondulin are used. Soft tiled or ruberoid coating is best suited for very small slopes - from 5 to 10 degrees. Slate with corrugated board is more suitable for "average" indicators of the angle of inclination - from 20 to 30 degrees. For metal tiles, a slope of at least 35 degrees is required.

The choice of roofing material is determined by its ability to interact with atmospheric precipitation and remove them from the surface in a timely manner. For example, snow comes off much easier from slate, corrugated board, tiles.

To build a single-pitched roof step by step with your own hands, you will need a standard set of construction tools, the necessary building materials. Wood materials (lumber) must be of good quality with a maximum moisture content of 22%. All wooden materials are recommended to be pre-treated with antiseptic agents (for example, agents from the Drevoteks series).

In addition to everything, you should have fasteners in stock: crossbars, struts, struts.

The crossbar is a horizontal part that acts as a support for other supporting structures, it distributes the load of the rafters to other beams.

Spacers - a type of supports that are located in the spans, provide greater stability to the entire structure.

Struts are beams that act as supports for the truss system.

Shed roof extension to the house Shed roof, photo:

You must have:

• wooden beam 100-150 cm in diameter;
• laying boards (thickness at least 5 cm);
• rafter nails;
• thermal insulation materials;
• waterproofing materials;
• construction tape;
• tools (axe, saw, hammer, construction knife, plumb line, screwdriver, tape measure, construction stapler, level).

The truss system of a shed roof will depend entirely on the size of the future house and the building material from which the walls were built. The rafters are always installed on the Mauerlat, if the building is small and the span does not exceed 4.5 meters, then the scheme of the shed roof truss system will be extremely simple. It will consist of the main Mauerlat beam and truss support. If large dimensions of the building are assumed, and the span is more than 6 meters, then installing reinforcing rafter legs with your own hands is simply necessary.

Shed roof truss system diagram Rafters must be installed in accordance with building regulations so that after several years of operation the consequences do not appear. Do not forget about safety rules - install reliable, strong temporary boards on the rafters, on which you will move during the construction process.

Shed roof rafter installations The do-it-yourself workflow includes the following steps:

1. Laying transverse rafters - they are attached to the Mauerlat (this is the basis - what the entire emphasis of the rafter system is on), the distance between the rafters is approximately 60-80 cm. Here you will need large nails (or anchors).
2. A crate is attached to the rafters (it is made of wooden slats 50 by 50 cm), it provides rigidity, the roofing material is laid directly on it. The crate is placed at a right angle.
3. Using a construction stapler, waterproofing material is attached to the crate (ordinary polyethylene film is suitable for this purpose). Fastening is carried out without tension, but with an overlap from the bottom up.
4. The turn of thermal insulation follows (for example: mineral wool, fiberglass, balsa mats).
5. Laying roofing material according to its individual characteristics.

Consider step by step the entire construction process:

1. Since the mauerlat is a support for the entire system, its main function is to ensure that the total weight of the roof is equally distributed evenly on the main load-bearing parts of the structure. For these purposes, you need to choose a beam of at least 10 × 10 cm, which is installed directly on the load-bearing walls. There should be a layer of roofing material between the wall masonry and the timber. The larger the slope angle, the thicker the Mauerlat beam should be. Do-it-yourself installation of the Mauerlat must be taken responsibly, be sure to use the building level (horizontal requirements must be met). The shed roof device involves fastening the timber to the walls with anchor bolts, the distance between them should be about a meter and a half.
2. Now comes the turn of laying the rafter boards, make sure that the length of the board is about half a meter longer than the roof span. The distance between these boards depends on the severity of the covering material, if sheet options are provided, then 150 cm will be enough. If you are going to lay slate or tiles with your own hands, then it is better to choose a step of 100-120 cm. It is best to lay the board upside down - this will give additional strength to the entire structure. The rafters for a shed roof must be cut into the Mauerlat beam along the entire length. When you mark the tie-in points with a pencil (recommended for novice builders), make sure that the future groove is slightly wider than the thickness of the board. The slope of the slot cut is responsible for what the degree of inclination will be.
3. One of the most important stages is the installation of rafters in the grooves. All boards must be installed in the same way, under the same slope. For your convenience, it would be better to initially put two rafters at the beginning and at the end of the wall, and then stretch the twine between them. Thus, you will get an accurate guideline, and the process itself will go much easier. To fasten the timber and rafters, use large nails (from 12 cm or more). The end of the rafter board (legs - a construction term) is attached with one side to the edge of the wall, and the other is fixed with a vertical beam. All rafter legs must be the same in terms of slope, height, direction.
4. If you have a large house and the distance between the spans exceeds 4-4.5 meters, then you need to install additional supporting beams (struts) under each rafter. Using this construction method, the entire roof, the shed roof truss system as a whole, will be strengthened.
5. Boards are laid step by step on the rafters, and vapor barrier material is placed on them (placed across the rafters). The film does not need to be stretched, but the strips should overlap (10-15 cm). Where the fragments will join, for reliability it is better to use construction tape (glue the strips together).
6. We lay the insulation on the waterproofing film with our own hands. When laying, there should be no cracks, gaps, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 20 cm. This is followed by the turn of the waterproofing layer, but there should be some space between it and the insulation. To provide a gap, small wooden blocks are usually laid between them. The waterproofing layer is attached with a construction stapler.
7. A crate is laid on the resulting “pie”. As mentioned above, slats or bars 50 by 50 are used for its manufacture, they are mounted across the rafters. Arrange as you like - a continuous canvas or at intervals.

   Single pitched roof sheathing After the lathing, the final roofing is laid, its installation is carried out according to individual building features.

Qualitatively laid, do-it-yourself rafters do not bend under a weight of 70-100 kg, if this fact was discovered during the check, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame.

The technology of laying the layers of the "pie" may vary due to certain circumstances, have some additions. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the waterproofing layer is re-placed on top of the insulation. It will not be worse from this, but in all cases special attention should be paid to fastening.

It is best to nail the film to wooden structural elements using flat-head nails or a construction stapler, the step frequency should be 15-20 cm.

One of the most important points is to secure the edges of the waterproofing material. It is brought under the roof overhang, the residual length must be at least 20 cm, after which it is nailed from below or, again, passed with a stapler.

It is best to take a wooden lath and knock it out with appropriate nails (in increments of 10-15 cm) - this is the so-called "folk" method of arranging a pitched roof. Thus, you will be sure that air currents will not penetrate under the waterproofing film, will not cause large-scale damage when strong winds invade.

Errors fixing the edges of a pitched garage roof In the photo above, the edges (overhang) of the roof were not securely fixed. In a strong wind, the metal profile sheet, together with the waterproofing film, was easily thrown aside like a light rag.

Garage, as an extension, under a pitched roof For garages, sheds, bathhouses, gazebos, this type of roof is most convenient. The shed roof construction provides a number of advantages for so-called ancillary buildings.

Fastening the truss frame of a shed roof to the wall of the house If we consider the extension step by step, it will become clear that its roof is adjacent to the wall of a residential building. Thus, its rafter system is arranged separately from the house, the lower ends of the rafters are located on the front wall of the extension, but the upper ends are attached to the wall of the building. Here it is very important to ensure the proper connection of the truss frame of the extension and the main wall of the house. It is also undesirable to use too rigid fasteners, because the rate of shrinkage of the house and the attached building can be different. Because of this difference, cracks in the walls can then form.

In this case, it will be most convenient to lay the beams on a timber frame that is adjacent to the wall of the house (attached to the wall), and fill the place (seam) between the timber and the wall with polyurethane sealant. Do-it-yourself roofing material should be laid on the roof of the extension with an overlap, and also wound at the junction under the covering of the house. This is necessary so that later precipitation does not seep through the junction. Usually, a similar roofing material is used on the roof of the house and extension - for aesthetic reasons.

If you decide to build a barn with a shed roof, then arranging the roofing system with your own hands will not differ significantly from the phased construction method described above.

It happens that sheds are built from timber, in such cases the top of the log house acts as a Mauerlat. Otherwise, there are no significant differences in the truss system of shed roofs of different buildings.

A shed roof for a garage is made using a similar method. If the walls of the garage are built of brick, then the edges of the beams, rafter boards are embedded in the niches equipped for this. They are made in advance in the walls and negotiated at the design stages of the building. Wooden fragments are recommended to be wrapped with a waterproofing coating before being buried in these niches. At the same time, the interval of the rafters is 60-70 cm. The front wall of the garage is a high wall, from which the slope goes down to the back of the building, the entrance gate is located in it. The roof should protrude 30-40 cm from the wall, form a small overhang.

Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that this version of the roof is practical, functional, structurally simple. A shed roof, equipped step by step with your own hands, can withstand powerful wind and snow loads. Such a roof will be warm, due to the small area for air penetration. If you did everything right, then it will faithfully serve you for more than a dozen years.

The first building that appears on a new summer cottage is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a shed roof will long remain the only haven for inventory, building materials and country property.

Depending on the plans for the future development of the suburban area, the availability of free time and money, there are several ways to solve the problem of an utility room on a suburban area:

• Hire a team and build a capital shed of brick or foam block, with a shed roof and a basement;
• Do-it-yourself pour a concrete foundation for a future building, buy a five-ton railway container and install it in a summer cottage instead of a barn;
• Build an ordinary barn with a shed roof, 3x6 in size, from timber and boards, as in the photo.

Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will not hesitate to vote in favor of the latter option, this is the most balanced and considered decision.

Advice! We don’t immediately build a barn from foam blocks on a “clean” site from the point of view of planning, often household buildings of this type have to be demolished or transferred in favor of a summer house or garage.

In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater capital investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that at a considerable cost, there are no tangible advantages over a shed wooden shed measuring 3x6.

Optimal design of a wooden shed 3x6

The most difficult element of a homemade barn is its roof. Choose a shed roof for your shed, you can't go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen prefer to put shed roofs on sheds, they are not so beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, a shed roof of a barn with your own hands can be done step by step even with minimal construction experience.

The only prerequisite is the correct orientation of the shed roof and the entire shed construction relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the overhang and roof gables:

1. The design of the barn, with dimensions of 3x6 m, with a shed roof is shown in the drawing;
2. The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 pillars. A standard cinder block is used as the material for the pillars, but it is better to cast the pillars from concrete in the formwork;
3. The basis of a shed is a frame made of boards and timber, the dimensions of the building are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the highest point of the rafters is 2.7 m;
4. A shed roof is made according to the classical scheme, on hanging rafters with stuffed batten boards and a flat roof. As a roofing, you can use corrugated board, ondulin, or make a two-layer version of roll material, for example, roofing felt.

The construction will turn out to be very simple and light, if you properly assemble the foundation, then a wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m / s. If there are no strong winds in the area where the barn is planned to be installed, then during the construction of the walls, you can limit yourself to vertical drains from the board and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.

The same applies to the construction of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a shed roof without using ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper wall trim and the Mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports from the timber. For windy terrain, a shed roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle part of the rafters.

We build a barn with a shed roof with our own hands

• For the frame, material with a section of 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 -19 pcs.;
• For the floor, a board measuring 25x100 mm - 27 pieces;
• For the lathing and roof supports, 43 boards with a section of 25x100 mm are needed.

All joints and connections are made with carpentry black self-tapping screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and building corners, but such savings are not always justified.

We make the foundation for a barn 3x6

After choosing the construction site for the barn, it will be necessary to plan and remove soil on a site measuring at least 3x6 m. It makes no sense to make a larger building spot. In order not to pester the vegetation, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.

After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and sized for a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits we pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand with a layer of 5 cm, after which we lay out columnar supports from the cinder block on a masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.

Before laying out, you will need to stretch the horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.

A day later, you can install a strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped tie-ins are made with half-cut ends, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.

We collect the frame and shed roof

At the next stage, you will need to install the supporting vertical racks, they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.

We make the central bearing racks from a 50x100 board, for the back wall you will need to cut three racks of 220 mm each, for the front wall - four racks of 250 mm each. We pre-fix each support on the lower trim with one self-tapping screw, then set the exact horizontal position along the building level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.

After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and we carry out the strapping of the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. In order to give the entire shed structure additional rigidity, it is necessary to sew up the floor with a grooved board before starting the assembly of the shed roof elements.

Further, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, lathing material, side racks, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time that the assembly of the rafters and the roof of the pitched roof will be carried out, the procedure must be repeated twice.

For the upper overhang of a shed roof, the installation of rafters and battens, you will need to fix an additional horizontal Mauerlat beam, as in the diagram.

Washed down the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markup or according to the prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards, they will fix the rafters from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the pitched roof.

Roofing and finishing works

At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of a shed roof with a sheathing board. If bituminous materials are used for the roof of the barn - flexible tiles and roofing material, additional OSB sheets will need to be laid on the boards or the sheathing will be hammered with solid wooden clapboard.

The easiest way to cover a shed roof is with corrugated board. The metal surface will withstand any cataclysms that may arise in a summer cottage, and laying and fixing roofing material is much easier and faster than euroslate or roofing material. As a waterproofing, a polyethylene film is laid, the edges of which will be released from under the canopies and nailed to the upper edge of the wooden walls of the barn.

Roofing on a shed roof starts from the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined with the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, an overlap of 15-20 cm is made on the bottom sheet. The places of overlap, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.

On the sides of the roofing cake, wind strips are nailed to protect the shed roof from water leakage and gusts of wind. We nail a similar rail for the installation of a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a shed roof with a screen of two wooden planks.

The assembled frame of the barn, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so lining, ordinary edged boards or OSB sheet panels can be used as wall lining material. To stuff the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. The joints and gaps between the OSB boards and the edged board must be blown out with mounting foam, the excess foam must be cut off and be sure to paint over with weather-resistant paint.

Conclusion

The chosen version of the barn with a shed roof, 3x6 m in size, can stand for up to 15 years without repair, subject to a competent choice of protective paint and varnish materials. This design has one indisputable advantage - a shed made of timber with a shed roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer cottage or a new barn made of foam blocks has been built.

Tired of tools scattered all over the place? Nowhere to put a bike and a fishing boat? It's time to finally set aside time and build a comfortable and functional barn right on your site. Moreover, we advise you to build a barn with a shed roof, which is more economical and easier to perform. And for this, you will first need to decide on the design of the building, the type of interior lighting and roofing. So, let's figure out how to build a convenient utility block!

The advantage of a shed roof for household buildings

So why single? Such a roof is good because it has the following qualities:

• Low cost of materials used and their availability.
• The simplicity and speed of the construction of such a roof.
• Excellent wind resistance and reliability.

And all those disadvantages that are important in the practice of building private houses no longer matter for the construction of a household building: the lack of an attic room and an unusual appearance. After all, the main advantage of a shed roof for a barn is its low weight.

Typically, the walls of such outbuildings are not made massive or heavy-duty, and it is impractical and unsafe to place a heavy complex roof on them. But the shed roof has a much lower weight, is easier to install and makes it easy to make the resulting gables with wind-transparent - you just need to sheathe them with ordinary polycarbonate. And you don't need any windows.

Types of shed roof structures

A pitched roof is the simplest type of roof. She has only two points of support - two walls, with the same or different slope. The shed roof consists of the following elements:

1. Rafter system. This is a set of supporting elements that support the roof slopes.
2. Gables. These are special sections of the walls, which are made in the form of a right-angled triangle and are limited on both sides by slopes and a cornice. As a rule, the gables of shed roofs are laid out from the same material as the walls, but they are often made translucent by inserting small windows or sheathing with polycarbonate.
3. Overhangs. This is the protruding part of the rafter legs, which is extended beyond the perimeter of the structure. It is the overhang that protects the walls from getting wet.
4. Insulation. It is not always used in shed roofs, mainly only in residential premises.
5. Roofing material. This is a topcoat that protects the entire truss system from precipitation.

Here is an understandable three-dimensional model of such a roof:

Step by step building instructions

So, let's get straight to the process!

Step 1. Calculating the angle of the roof and building the walls

After you have calculated the angle of inclination of the future roof, proceed to the calculation of the walls of the barn. Initially, decide how high the wall below will be. Have you chosen? But all other parameters of the roof will now depend on this value.

So, we calculate according to this scheme:

And now about the construction of the highest wall. The fact is that many novice craftsmen make such an unfortunate mistake - they make walls according to ready-made parameters and forget that there is also a Mauerlat. Those. on the last row of bricks or blocks, we will put another beam on which we will attach the rafters. And he gives his height.

Step 2. Making rafters

If you purchased raw wood, be sure to remove the bark from it. The fact is that bark beetle larvae always remain under it, which will eventually develop and wear down the entire roof.

For the manufacture of shed roof rafters, we recommend using coniferous wood, preferably pine and always dry. Be sure to pre-treat the rafters with flame retardant and antiseptic to protect against moisture and accidental fire. In total, you will need wood for such materials:

• Mauerlat. It is made of a strong beam with a section of 15x15 cm. It is on it, as on the base, that the shed roof will be attached, and it is the Mauerlat that distributes the load from the truss system. Mount the Mauerlat on anchor bolts or studs with such a pitch that the fasteners coincide with the truss tie-in sections. It is impossible to fasten the Mauerlat less often, but more often it is not worth it, because. this will weaken the beam itself.
• Rafter leg. These are strong, even bars that form slopes. They are attached to load-bearing walls or to the Mauerlat. If the length is not enough, the so-called filly is used - bars for overhang.
• Crate. This is a solid or lattice base on which the roofing material is attached. Solid plywood is made from moisture-resistant sheet plywood, and roofing material, flexible tiles or ondulin are already laid on it. And the lattice crate is made of unedged boards, which are already stuffed perpendicular to the rafters.

In total, you have three options for building a rafter system for a barn, depending on how complex it should be:

The more massive the roofing and the higher the angle of inclination, the more complex the design of such a roof should be.

In practice, everything will look like this:

Shed roof rafters are of three types, depending on how exactly they should transfer the loads from the roof - to the walls and foundation.

So this is:

• sliding rafters. You can’t think of others for the construction of a farm building from a bar. The fact is that natural wood is subject to shrinkage, which reaches 15%. Therefore, it is important to allow the roof to sink slightly over the course of months so that the stress does not cause cracks in the timbers. And for this, the upper part of the rafters is fixed rigidly, and the lower part is a little looser, on a special metal element called a “slipper”. And the roof after shrinkage is not deformed.
• Rafters. These are usually placed where the barn has internal partitions, and the walls are made of brick or block, which are generally poorly adapted to the load.
• hanging rafters. These do not have any additional supports in the middle, and the entire load falls on the external load-bearing walls. Such rafters are assembled on the ground, in the form of finished truss trusses, and only then they are raised to the roof in finished form.

Step 3. Installing the Mauerlat

In a shed roof, the rafter leg rests with one end on the Mauerlat, and with the other end on the Mauerlat ridge. They are joined with a notch. It is necessary to install a Mauerlat, because. they serve to more evenly distribute the load from the roof to the walls.

Once the walls of your barn are ready, lay the rolled waterproofing material on them and lay the mauerlat. With a long drill, make holes for the anchor bolts, and be sure to treat the Mauerlat itself with an antiseptic. After that, fix the Mauerlat on the wall, insert the anchors and fix it. Be sure to isolate the bars from the walls with roofing felt or roofing material.

Here you can clearly see what needs to be done and how:

Step 4. Installation of rafter legs and battens

The gable and rear rafters are installed first, and then a twine is stretched between them, which will become a guideline for installing all the other rafter legs.

The step between the rafter legs should not be more than 1 meter. As a result, the truss truss is obtained in the form of a right triangle. Moreover, both hollow, consisting only of sides, and with internal partitions, which are called braces, struts and stops.

Now we install fillies - additional overhangs, under which we put roofing material to protect them from dampness. You will subsequently sew this overhang with siding.

Then we nail the crate. If you plan to cover the roof with roofing felt or other soft roofing, then make the crate solid, from plywood sheets. And the lattice - for corrugated board and other rigid sheet materials.

Step 5. Laying waterproofing

Now we lay the waterproofing film. Lay it with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and be sure to glue all the joints. Fasten the film with a construction stapler along the entire roof, starting from the bottom row. Then press the waterproofing film with the battens of the control battens, leaving 3-5 cm for the ventilation gap.

But not everyone takes into account when building a barn that a waterproofing film is needed for the roof not only as protection from atmospheric precipitation. The fact is that in any technical and utility rooms there is always a lot of dust.

It is carried with feet from the site, appears when working with different materials, and simply over time - the place is not inhabited. And, of course, part of the dust rises, settling on the sheets and accelerating their aging, and ventilation of the under-roof space suffers first of all. And therefore, since you have already saved on the crate and roofing material, do not be stingy and purchase a modern diffuse film. Which will provide a pitched roof:

1. Protection against ingress of dust.
2. Protection from rain and melt water.
3. Improves air circulation in the roof space.
4. It will delay the exit of heat through the roof, which will improve the thermal insulation of the roof.
5. Thanks to microperforation, it will remove water vapor from the thermal insulation.

Step 6. Installing the counter grille

Now, right on the waterproofing coating, strictly perpendicular to the crate, we fasten the counter-lattice - small bars that will serve as the basis for mounting the roofing.

Step 7. Roof decking

Now lay the roofing material. Take special self-tapping screws for this purpose, which are recommended by the manufacturer of this coating (usually they are included). In any case, these should be galvanized self-tapping screws with a rubber cap that will protect the coating from moisture.

As for the choice of the coverage itself, we note the following. It is clear that for the roof of a garage or barn, no one wants to buy the most expensive tile of the latest fashionable innovations. After all, this is just an outbuilding and you want to save money on it. That is why, when choosing a roofing for a pitched roof, be guided by the following points:

1. Sufficient light fastness.
2. Durability that can withstand heavy snowfall.
3. Close coefficients of thermal expansion of all roofing elements, or the use of special technical solutions.

So, the simplest and most popular roofing for outbuildings is the good old (or not good, in view of recent research?) slate:

Coated farm buildings turn out to be pretty, like ondulin:

Moreover, you do not have to build a colorless roof of the barn! The transparency of polycarbonate sheets is also preserved during tinting, but from a distance such a roof will look great. All thanks to the unique color palette of roofing PC tinting:

• Sky blue and blue shades.
• Green: emerald and malachite.
• A wide selection of shades of traditional red.
• Bronze.
• Silver gray and smoky gray.
• Lactic.

But you will need a special mount and sealed tapes so that neither dust nor moisture gets into the hollow cells of the polycarbonate panels. Dust itself is bad in that it significantly reduces the light-transmitting properties of such a roof, and therefore it will no longer be possible to arrange a small greenhouse or winter garden in the attic. Secondly, it is extremely unaesthetic. And thirdly, if dirt is brought in from ordinary land or a vegetable garden, do not be surprised how biodiversity will soon begin to crawl and enjoy life along the honeycomb (which is a rather unpleasant picture).

And with the right approach, this is what happens:

And here's an option:

By the way, a stone or brick curb, also covered with a roofing, will help protect any roofing from the force of the wind.

Step 8. Organization of the drain

The gutter of a shed roof can be either organized, when water leaves through special gutters, catchment funnels and pipes, or unorganized, when it simply flows off the edge of the roof. It all depends on how often it rains in your area, and where you want to direct the rainwater.

So, for example, a barn can stand in that place of the site where the traffic is low, and water from the roof may well drain directly to the ground. Or maybe in front of the track, which you don’t want to flood at all. And one more thing: diverted water - less dampness in the room. Here, starting from this, decide whether you need a drain for such a small building. If you are doing unorganized water drainage, i.e. there will be no drain, make the cornice overhang at least 55 cm.

Also, if you are building a complex shed roof, consisting of several combined ones, then especially carefully consider the drain.

Step 9. Finishing work

Let's move on to the finishing touches. We install snow retainers, if necessary, and equip the drainage system. We put clamps for gutters, fasten the eaves.

By the way, in order to increase the fire resistance of the wooden structures of the barn, treat it with either a special fire retardant solution, at least with lime. If in some place a wooden roof element will join with a stone (and a stone curb is often made for pitched roofs, for additional protection from rain), then these elements must be treated with an antiseptic. It is even better to lay a roofing material or roofing felt between such materials that are so different in hydrophobic terms.

The best examples of construction

It will be easier and faster for you to build such a simple shed with a minimum roof span:

In this example of construction, the barn is a canopy with walls sheathed with slab material. As a bearing support, asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 12 cm were used, which are dug in and concreted into the ground.

On the pipe there is a crossbar board measuring 5x15 cm. As a result, walls with the desired height difference were obtained: 2 meters and 3.5 meters. The drop itself turned out to be one and a half meters, and the width of the span was 3.65 m.

The rafters were made 5x10 cm with special cuts for the lower and upper strapping. Step - 1 m. Up - a counter-lattice of 5x5 cm bars, and directly the slate itself. The pediments are sewn up with polycarbonate for natural light.

If you want nothing to freeze in such a barn in winter, build it with insulated walls:

Moreover, a barn with a shed roof does not have to be primitive and shed at all. How do you like this option?

Got it? Roll up your sleeves!

I present to your attention a photo report on the construction of a barn 3 by 5 meters made of wood.

The foundation for the barn is used columnar. To begin with, I dug holes about 800 mm deep (10 in total). Then he took the roofing material, twisted it with wire into a pipe (fasten it as securely as possible).

It turned out like this:

Pouring concrete foundation:

The whole day was spent preparing the foundation. By the end of the day, this is what I got:

The diameter of the columns is 190 mm.

After the foundation solidified, he began to make the lower trim of the barn:

The lower harness was treated with an antiseptic.

Yes, by the way, a 100 × 50 mm timber was used for the frame. Assembling the rest of the frame:

It's time to do the roof.

The roof will be hipped. Here is an explanatory picture to make it more clear:

Photo in the process of collecting the truss system:

Closer photo:

The roof is almost ready:

Made a roof sheathing:

Corrubite was chosen as the roof covering.

He laid the roof, began to sheathe the shed with a block house under the timber:

I installed windows and doors, and it turned out such a pretty shed:

The construction took about two weeks.

I'm also thinking of sheathing the bottom of the shed with something like flat slate to cover the concrete pillars. Well, steps can be added.

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The frame of the barn is built on the foundation that we prepared in the last step. We will use beams and boards for the frame.

Bottom frame

The bottom of the shed box is the bottom band. As a rule, 100 x 100 mm or 150 x 150 mm are used for the lower belt, depending on the size of the stall.

You can simply place the strap for the bottom strap next to each other:

But in this case, you must level the level with the panels (see photo above).

This is a cumbersome and imprecise solution. It is better to cut the wood in half thickness and install it carefully as follows:

Secure the board with a nail (preferably galvanized) or a self-tapping screw.

Here are some larger shots to get an idea:

Another option for the bottom belt is an app. The connection in this case is performed using corners:

Be sure to treat the bottom straps (or better, the whole tree) with an antiseptic.

Thus, the wood will be protected from decay, insects and fire.

Main barn frame

Vertical posts are attached to the bottom belt. This can be a smaller beam (eg 50 x 50 mm) or a plate (eg 100 x 50 mm). The easiest way to mount vertical stands on the bottom tape on metal corners:

To strengthen the structure (so that the barn is not caught, but stands firmly), trusses (jeeps) are used - these are plates that are attached to the frame diagonally:

The "hardness" of the frame also depends on the size of the stall.

For small sizes, there are literally four racks and several entrances:

The more number of stands the more:

The main thing to remember is that in this case there is no single option.

We're building a sunroof

Everyone does what they like, so design your frame in a way that is consistent and secure. And how much it will cost, etc. It doesn't matter.

All connections in the frame should be installed on metal corners with screws - this is the best option.

Find out how you can place the roof in the vault with your hands.

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3×6 barn is one of the most popular formats. I have already published one report on the construction of a cave from 3 to 6 meters, now I decided to add another one. This time he flew with the roof.

For starters, the foundation. Since the site is located on the coast of the Volga-Mati (upper terrain, and below - river sand), he decided to apply a concrete base. Copied caves 600x600x600 mm in the amount of eight pieces.

Warehouse with our own hands - we build a cheap and reliable structure

I mixed the concrete and poured it into the prepared hole. In concrete, rebar was mounted (vertically upwards) to allow installation in the warehouse.

The platform was made of brick - brick, the next day he measured the level and added grout where needed, so it was smooth.

After drying, he began to assemble the lower frame of the shed.

For this purpose, a plate measuring 50x200x6000 mm was used.

The vertical frames of the frame are made of 50 × 100 mm panels. Here is a photo of the final barn frame:

As for the roof: in 8 for 3 there were 8 rafters.

I took machines 50x150x5000 mm. Slings are made, attached to the frame with nails. You can fix the metal corners too, but this seemed more convenient. Here is the rafter attachment scheme:

But the picture of the rafts is closer:

Rings have not been made since the galvanized roof is 2500 mm.

The roof had 2 zinc plates with a slight overlap.

Covering the suction surface from the edge 25×150 mm. The overlay is about 2.5 cm thick. Secure with 90 mm galvanized nails. The worn board immediately decided in front of the skin. It seemed to be easier. And when the board is on, you won't see areas that don't exist.

In front of the bastard, he first tried the door, and then began to translate the record.

If anyone is interested in staining Azure, impregnation V33.

They bought it from Leroy and fifteen liters were left in the shed. I used 2 layers. The color seems to be bad.

And here are the latest photos of the barn 6 by 3 meters:

The location of the stable is about a week. The winter villa was ok, no problems.

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The first step is to prepare the foundation. The easiest way is to make a columnar foundation of brick, as we wrote earlier. During the construction of this barn, a concrete foundation was prepared.

Features of the construction in the country of a barn with a shed roof measuring 3x6 m

Boreholes with a depth of 800 mm and a diameter of 200 mm were made for the foundation. Rolled roofing material was used for formwork, which protruded 500 mm above ground level. Reinforcement was welded from three rods. The last stage of the foundation is concreting. Use a hydraulic level to keep the foundation level. And here is the finished foundation:

Timber barn frame

For the frame, a beam of 100x100 mm was taken.

In order for the frame to be reliable and not stagger, a farm is needed. Farm (from lat. firmus - durable) allows you to save the geometric shape of the barn. A 100 × 50 mm board was used as a truss (in the photo, the dark-colored boards are the truss).

Shed roof 6×3m

The next step is the lathing of the barn roof. I used an unedged board 100x25 mm. Corrugated sheets were chosen as the coating.

Sheets of 2500 mm were purchased. Since we do not need such a length, the sheets were cut to 2000 mm. The remains of the cut sheets were subsequently used to cover the foundation of the shed (see last photo).

For the ridge and ebbs, cut straight sheets of iron were used and bent as needed.

Sheets are fastened with an overlap (15-20 centimeters) on self-tapping screws.

Last steps

The outer edges of the timber and the lower trim of the shed were impregnated with working off to protect the wood from decay. The frame of the barn was upholstered with a 150x25 board with a slight overlap (about 20mm).

The next step is painting. A walnut finish was used.

The first layer was applied with a brush, then two more layers with an airbrush. What happened, you can see for yourself:

A 40x100 board was laid on the floor of the barn. The bottom of the barn, as I wrote above, was sealed with the remnants of the corrugation.

A door was made from the remains of a 100x25 board.

Installed the door, painted and inserted windows. Here's what happened in the end:

It remains to finish the steps and you're done! I worked alone and only on weekends. There was no construction experience. As a result, the construction of the 6 × 3 barn on its own took two and a half months.

Looking back, here's what went wrong:

• It’s better to take ondulin on the roof - it would be much easier than fiddling with corrugated sheets;
• The roof is also easier to make a shed. Although the gable looks prettier;
• I decided not to buy ebbs, but made it myself. Due to inexperience, the tides came out high, it was possible to reduce them by another 5 centimeters.

Estimate for the construction of a barn 6 × 3

To have an idea of ​​how much it will cost to build a barn with your own hands, I knocked out such an estimate:

1. Cement - 1500 rubles;
2. Ruberoid - 530 rubles (2 rolls);
3. Nails - 1500 rubles;
4. Timber 100x100x6000 mm - 6750 rubles (18 pieces);
5. Timber 100x50x6000 mm - 2200 rubles (12 pieces);
6. Draft board 25x100x6000 mm - 2860 rubles (45 pieces);
7. Board 25x150x6000 mm - 12500 rubles (90 pieces);
8. Board 40x100x6000 mm - 5000 rubles (33 pieces);
9. Corrugated sheets 2500mm - 7000 rubles (14 pieces);
10. Sheets of iron 2500mm - 3000 rubles (6 pieces);
11. Walnut impregnation - 2800 rubles;
12. White paint - 700 rubles;
13. Door lock - 220 rubles;
14. Door hinges - 180 rubles.

TOTAL: 46,740 rubles.

Didn't count the windows because I already had them. If you add, for example, PVC windows, the barn will turn out to be under fifty thousand.

Read another report on the construction of a 6x3m barn.

A barn is an irreplaceable outbuilding both on a personal plot and on a garden plot. Work tools and materials are left in it for short-term and seasonal storage. Advanced gardeners with their own hands equip a comfortable bathroom, a shower cabin in the sheds. In a word, if there was a barn, there will be a use for it in any case. The purpose of this structure is strictly utilitarian, so the appearance does not impose many requirements, the main thing is ease of use and ease of construction.

A shed roof shed is the most inexpensive option for building a utility room for storing inventory with your own hands. Its frame is easy to assemble, does not require the involvement of special equipment, the purchase of expensive materials and tools. If necessary, it can be built from what is at hand, what is left from building a house. Moreover, even a person with little carpentry skills can handle such work with their own hands.

Choosing a place for construction

The first thing to do is to find and clear a site for construction. There are two options for placement: close to residential buildings or on the edge of the site. The location primarily depends on the tasks assigned to the barn in the future. To make it convenient to use, we suggest following the following rules:

1. To build a barn with your own hands, choose places with the least suitable soil and terrain for agriculture. Every piece of land has a space shaded by an old tree that cannot be uprooted, occupied by a ditch, or simply remote.
2. Place the outbuilding so that it does not obstruct the access of equipment and vehicles.
3. Consider the distance that heavy objects will have to be carried during work, place the barn close to the main front of work

Necessary materials and tools

In order for the construction process to proceed quickly, without the formation of downtime, you need to immediately purchase the necessary materials and make sure that the tool is available. Nadvornaya is a fairly economical option; for its construction, wood is mainly used for its construction; it can be built even from cheaper second- and third-grade lumber. You will need:

• Beam 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm for the construction of the frame;
• Edged boards 50x150 mm for the truss system;
• Edged boards 40x150 mm for sheathing;
• Unedged boards for lathing;
• Roofing material;
• Waterproofing film;
• Ruberoid
• Mix for making concrete, sand, fine gravel
• Fasteners: nails, screws.

A powerful screwdriver, drill, grinder, electric planer, electric jigsaw are useful from the tool. In general, all operations can be done manually, but the presence of electrical appliances will speed up the construction process by half.

Construction stages

Foundation laying

First, the chosen place is prepared: garbage is removed, large plants are leveled if necessary, after which you can start pouring the foundation. Although a barn with a shed roof is a non-capital, lightweight structure, it nevertheless needs a reliable foundation.

• It is enough to build a columnar foundation with your own hands, on which the frame is installed, to a depth of 40-50 cm. Using a tape measure, twine and pegs, you need to mark where the pillars will be located. Count so that the spans between them are in the region of 1.2-1.5 meters. Four pillars are located at the corners of the structure, and several inside the perimeter, depending on the area of ​​​​the barn.
• After marking, you need to make holes in the ground with a drill to the depth of soil freezing. Formwork from unnecessary boards is set up from above to a height of 20-30 cm.
• At the bottom of the dug holes, before pouring them with concrete, a sand and gravel cushion is made, reinforcement is inserted for reinforcement.

In order for the foundation to gain strength, it is left alone for 3-4 days, after which construction continues.

Frame assembly

While the foundation is solidifying, there is time to process all the wood going to the frame with antiseptic and refractory compounds so that the barn lasts longer, is protected from fire, rot and pests. The following is an instruction on how to build a frame with your own hands:

roof construction

Includes elements such as rafter legs, lathing, waterproofing and roofing material. They form the so-called roofing cake, which is necessary for reliable protection against precipitation. As a Mauerlat, the upper trim of the frame is used. And since we have already installed uneven racks, we move on to the flooring of the rafter legs with our own hands:

Finishing work

After completing the draft work, the frame of the barn is sheathed with a board or sheet moisture-resistant plywood. Double-glazed windows are inserted into the window openings, doors are installed. This is followed by an external treatment of the building with a glazing antiseptic or acrylate, oil-based paint. The next step is interior decoration, for more convenient storage, shelves, racks are made, if desired, conduct light, mount sockets.

In order for the outbuilding with a shed roof that you built with your own hands to last as long as possible, it must be inspected twice a year for defects. The roof requires seasonal inspection and repair, painting is carried out every 5-6 years. A neat, functional outbuilding will become an indispensable room on your site, which you can build with your own hands for little money!

Video instruction