How to make roof gutters correctly. Installing gutters with your own hands: rules for fastening, assembling and installing a PVC system

Frontal board version, plastic bracket mounting

The brackets are placed at the level of the cord stretched between the end bracket and the funnel. The difference in height between the end points of the cord should provide a slope of up to 3 mm per linear meter.

Option without frontal board, mounting on a metal bracket

The option is used for roofs with a small pitch of lathing. The difference in height is provided by the bending of the bracket at the calculated place. The distance from the end of the supporting part of the bracket to the point of bending should decrease as the intermediate bracket moves away from the final one.

Option without frontal board, attachment with extension and plastic bracket

The variant is used for roofs with a large pitch of lathing. The fold lines of all extensions are at the same distance. The slope is provided by sliding the plastic bracket over the extension. The bend point should be no closer than 10 mm from the attachment point of the bracket clamping plate or no closer than 10 mm from the end of the slot in the extension.

Ensuring the optimal position of the elements of the drainage system relative to the roof of operation

The overhang of the roof is located above the gutter at a distance of 1/3 to 1/2 of its diameter.

The required gap between the roof extension line and the upper part of the bracket of 25-30 mm is provided by bending the final metal bracket (extension) or by moving the plastic bracket.

Ensuring stability against deformations under vertical loading

The distance between the gutter brackets should not exceed 600 mm. The funnel should be fixed at two points (or on two extensions). The gutter connector should be fixed at one point (or on one bracket). The end of the corner piece should be no more than 150 mm from the nearest bracket.

The distance from the plug to the nearest bracket should not exceed 250 mm.

Providing compensation for thermal linear expansion

The gutter must fit into the mating elements up to the line marked "Insert so far". For the convenience of installation, point micro-abutments are formed along the edges of the line, before contact with which the gutter is inserted. The distance from the end surface of the plug to the structural elements of the house must be at least 30 mm.

Sealing the drainage system

Before installation, the mating surfaces should be cleaned of dirt, make sure that the rubber sealing gaskets are present and that they are tightly installed in the slots. The spacers must extend to the ends of the sockets. All plugs must be installed. The ends of the gutters should protrude 50 - 100 mm beyond the side cut of the roof.

Comparison of the characteristics of gutters under load

The plastic bracket, funnel and connector are attached with self-tapping screws directly to the frontal board. To fix the gutter in the plastic bracket, you must first insert the edge of the gutter closest to the frontal board into the bracket clamp. Then, lowering the gutter into the receiver of the bracket and pressing firmly on the opposite edge of the gutter together with the clamp, insert the edge into the clamp until it clicks. When attaching to the frontal board, it is necessary to strengthen the connection of the board to the roof to prevent it from being pulled out under a load from snow.

Roof without front board. Mounting on metal brackets

Metal extensions are used for large pitch battens and are attached to the roof structure. On metal extensions, the gutter is fixed in plastic brackets. When using an extension, the plastic bracket is secured with a bolt connection, which allows you to move the bracket when setting the slope of the gutter. A bolt (with a semicircular head) M5x30 is inserted through a washer into the upper central hole of the bracket, passes through the bracket slot and is tightened with a nut after the plastic bracket is in the required position. A washer and a spring washer must be installed under the nut. The outer diameter of the flat washers must be at least 15 mm. A spring washer is installed between the washer and the nut. To avoid vertical movements, the bracket is additionally fixed on the extension through the lower hole either with a bolt (M5x30 + 2 washers) with a hex head, or with a short self-tapping screw. The funnel and the gutter connector are bolted (M5x30 + 2 washers) directly to the extension. The funnel is attached with two bolts and the connector with one.

Fastening pipes and fittings

There are two possible fixing methods:
Pipe: fastening with slipping, on the side surface of the clamp there is an inscription "Pipe".
Fitting: fastening with rigid fixation, on the side surface of the clamp there is an inscription "Fitting".
The base of the clamp is screwed with a self-tapping screw (diameter MB, length from 50 mm) to the wall of the house. The yokes of the clamp are inserted into the base until they stop. The clamp is tightened with a round head bolt (M5, length 40 mm) and a nut.

The sequence of installation of the drainage system

Installation of the catchment

Install end bracket 5 subject to clause 2 of the General Provisions.
Install funnel brackets 11 ... For the version with frontal board, funnel 11 mounts without brackets.
Hang the slope of the gutter from the end bracket to the funnel bracket. For the version with a frontal board - from the cavity of the end bracket 5 to the bottom edge of the funnel cut 11 .
Install the gutter connector brackets 7 ... For version with frontal board - install the connector itself 7 .
Connector 7 or its bracket is installed taking into account clauses 1 and 3 of the General Provisions.
The distance between the centers of the funnel 11 and connector 7 should not exceed 3,080 mm.
Install intermediate brackets 9 subject to clause 3 of the General Provisions.
Anchor the funnel 11 and gutter connector 7 on fasteners (bracket, connector).
For the version with frontal board, funnel 11 and connector 7 mounted without brackets.
Cut the gutter to the required length 8 and connect the funnel with it 11 and connector 7 .
Cut the gutter to the required length 6 and place it on the connector and end bracket.
Repeat the operations for the adjacent side of the roof (bracket 2 , gutter 3 ).
Install in gutters 3 and 6 gutter corner 4 .
Put on the funnel cap 12 to the open end of the funnel 11 .
Put on the gutter plug 1 onto the open end of the gutter.
Insert funnel mesh 10 .

Spillway installation

Push all the way onto the drain hole of the funnel 11 clutch or knee 13 , depending on the specifics of the installation site. If necessary, fix the coupling or elbow 13 on the funnel 11 self-tapping screw.
Assemble the required configuration of the figured part of the weir (knee 13 , pipe section 14 , knee 15 ). When assembling the shaped part of the weir, the following requirements must be adhered to: Fittings 13 and 15 in the shaped part of the weir, they are connected to each other only through an intermediate pipe section 14 and, if necessary, are fixed on the pipe section with self-tapping screws.
Secure the bottom fitting 15 clamp 16 in the "Fitting" position.
Put on the pipe 18 all the way to the bottom fitting 15 of the shaped part of the weir.
Align the pipe vertically. Mark the installation location of the universal clamp in the middle of the pipe 17 .
Put on the pipe 18 per fitting 15 ... Let's fix it in a clamp 17 .
The middle clamp is mounted in the "Pipe" position.
Cut the end piece of the pipe to the required length 21 ... Put it on the clutch 19 and slide the sleeve with the pipe onto the lower part of the fixed pipe 18 .
Mark the mounting location of the clamp 20 on the wall of the house, flush with the place of fixing the clamp on the coupling 19 ... Retreat on 10 mm below.
Put on the sleeve with the pipe ( 19 and 21 ) to the lower end of the fixed pipe 18 ... Fix the assembly in the clamp 20 ... The clamp is mounted in the "Fitting" position. If the length of the pipe section exceeds 1,500 mm, fix it in the middle with a universal clamp. The clamp is mounted in the "Pipe" position.
Put the tip on the pipe 23 ... Mark the mounting location of the clamp 22 ... Step back 10 mm below.
Put on the tip 23 per pipe 21 , fix it in the universal clamp 22 .
The clamp is mounted in the "Fitting" position.
The option of attaching the tip to the pipe with a self-tapping screw is possible.

Installation of spillway pipes on siding

Screw stud М8 - 1 pc .; Nut М8 - 2 pcs .; Washers 015 - 2 pcs. Screw М5х40 - 1 pc., Nut М5 - 1 pc. (come with a clamp).
With a significant distance to the wall of the house, instead of the M6 screw hairpin 1 it is recommended to use an M8 screw pin. In this case, it is necessary to cut the stud of the required length and drill a hole in the clamp support to the diameter of the stud.
During installation, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 10 to 12 mm in the flat section of the siding.
Screw in the hairpin 1 through the center of the hole into the wall of the house (to a depth of at least 40 mm). If the wall is not wooden, a dowel must be installed. The screw part should protrude 20 mm above the siding.
Screw a nut onto the screw part of the stud 2 flush with the siding surface. Put on a washer with a diameter of 15 mm 3 .
Place the clamp support 4 on the stud. Screw on the nut from the inside of the clamp support until it stops 5 with washer 15 mm in diameter 6 .
Extend the clamp support 4 to the desired position ("Pipe" \ "Fitting"). Tighten nut 2 under the support of the clamp until it stops with a wrench.
Insert clamp 9 into the support of the clamp and fix it with the M5x40 screw 7 and nuts М5 8 .

Gutter system installation tools

For markup: tape measure, pencil.
To attach the brackets: screwdriver, drill, screwdriver.
To install brackets: cord, hose level, spirit level.
To bend metal brackets: bending machine.
For cuts: hacksaw, saw with a fine tooth, miter box.

Purpose of elements

Gutter Designed to collect and drain rainwater from the roof surface	Gutter plug Can be installed on both the right and left ends of the gutters to ensure the tightness of the system	Clamp universal Designed for fixing the system to the facade of the building. Has two positions: 1. "pipe", 2. "fitting"
Downpipe Designed to drain water from the funnel of the gutter to the ground or into the drain	Funnel plug Installed on one of the ends of the funnel to seal the system	Tip Designed to drain water from the drainage system to the ground
Gutter connector with rubber seal Designed for serial connection of gutters into a single system	Elbow 72 ° These fittings are designed to provide a transition from funnel to pipe. They are also used to bypass architectural elements of the facade. The elbows are connected to each other with a piece of pipes	Bracket, plastic Designed for fixing the gutter on roofs with a frontal board or complete with an extension on roofs without a frontal board
Funnel Designed to connect gutters and pipes in order to drain water from the drainage system to the drainage system	Elbow 45 °	Bracket metal Designed for fixing the gutter on roofs without a frontal board. Bracket support length - 300 mm
Funnel mesh (Clear Tube) Prevents leaves, needles and debris from entering the weir	Corner piece 90 ° Corner elements are installed on both external and internal corners of the roof and are designed to connect gutters at an angle of 90 ° (135 °) in order to change the direction of water movement	Extension metal Designed for securing a plastic bracket for roofs without a headboard. The length of the support part of the extension - 240 mm
Coupling connecting Designed to connect a pipe with a funnel or two pipes	Corner piece 135 °

It is difficult to overestimate the need to drain storm and melt water from the roof surface and from the entire structure as a whole. Today, manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of products that can satisfy the needs of the most demanding builder. The existing systems have sufficient durability, beautiful design, relative ease of installation and a wide color spectrum.

Having certain skills in construction, installation of a drainage system will not cause difficulties for a novice builder. Each manufacturer has installation instructions that will help you organize the drain with your own hands.

Elements, types and factors influencing the choice of the drainage system

Any gutter is a structure of gutters and pipes, the diameter of which depends on the load of wastewater per linear meter of the roof.

Gutters are attached to the building using brackets or hooks (common name by many manufacturers). Pipes and gutters are connected with funnels, and pipes are fastened to the building with clamps.

Depending on the architectural features of the building, the following elements can be used to install the drainage system with your own hands:

The drain can be in the form of a round or rectangular cross-section. The width of the gutters directly depends on the roof area and is 100 - 200 mm, and the diameter of the pipes can be in the range of 75 - 120 mm.

The material that is mainly used for the manufacture of the drainage system is plastic or metal. Galvanized gutters are almost never used due to their increased susceptibility to corrosion. Copper and titanium - zinc can also act as materials for the drainage system, but their cost is much higher.

The type of drainage system is determined at the design stage of the building. The drain must cope with the functions assigned to it and correspond to the general architecture of the building. The main factors that must be considered before installing with your own hands are as follows:

the amount of annual precipitation in the area where the house will be built;
color and material of roofing and building facade;
the configuration of the roof and its total area;
architectural concept of the building.

Before making a drain with your own hands, read the instructions of the product supplier!

The choice of the location of the drains and the necessary tool for installing the drainage system

The choice of a place for water drains is influenced by the length of the roof overhang. If the overhang of the roof has a length of up to 10 meters, one drain must be installed, with a roof length exceeding 10 meters, two drains are used.

The location and installation of drains depends on the type of roof and for proper installation with your own hands, you can use the diagram below.

To install a drain with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

Installation instructions for the drainage system

Installation of the drainage system begins with the installation of hooks. They are mainly of three types: short, adjustable and long. They can be attached to the bottom board of the sheathing, to the rafters or to the top of the rafters. For each of the cases, different types of hooks are used.
Calculate the angle of inclination of the hooks. The recommended slope must be 2-3 mm / m. Hooks are placed side by side, numbered and marked with the fold line. Further, using the hook bending tool, they are bent along the markings.
The installation of the first gutter hook is carried out in such a way that the distance between the imaginary extension of the roof and the outer side of the gutter is 20 - 25 mm.
Installation of hooks is done at a distance of 0.8 - 0.9 meters with an angle of inclination of 2-3 mm / m relative to the horizon. Installation begins from the edge of the cornice from which the slope will go relative to the horizon. The first and last hooks should be 100 - 150 mm from the edge of the roof edge.
If the installation of the hooks does not take place on the frontal board, but on the rafter or on the last bar of the lathing, then grooves are made to level the surfaces of the hooks with the surface of the rafters or lathing.

Long hooks are installed before the roofing is installed!
If it is necessary to make a hole in the gutter for a funnel, then mark the desired place with a pencil and use a hacksaw to cut a hole. With the help of pliers, the funnel is given the required shape, and the burrs are removed. The place where the metal is cut is treated with a special paint to prevent corrosion.
The use of a sander is prohibited for cutting materials!

The funnel is first attached to the outer bend of the gutter, and the fixing clamps are clamped from the inside. Next, the plug is installed on the end of the gutter using a rubber hammer or hand pressing. The assembled structure is attached to the hooks by pressing on each hook.

If possible, such elements as: funnel, plugs and corners should be installed before the final installation of the gutter on the roof!
The gutters are connected using connecting locks. For this, a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the ends of the parts to be joined. A sealant is applied to the rubber gasket in the form of three lines: one is applied in the center, the rest on the sides. The back of the lock is attached to the inner sides of the gutters. Further, the lock is pressed towards the outside to ensure a snug fit of the gasket to the grooves. Snap the lock and fix it by bending the clamping terminals. Remains of sealant must be removed.
When installing internal or external corner elements, between the ends to be joined, it is also necessary to make a gap of 2-3 mm and connect using the pressure locks, as indicated in the instructions above.
A gap of 2-3 mm is required to compensate for thermal expansions. Do not forget about this, otherwise the structure may be destroyed or "turned out"!
Installation of gutters takes place in previously designated places. To fasten pipes to walls, clamps are used, which are fixed with dowels. The distance between the clamps should not exceed two meters. The pipe must be at least 40 mm away from the wall. Trimming the pipes must be done with a hacksaw.
It is forbidden to cut pipes from the tapered end!

If it is necessary to connect two elbows, then measure the distance between the ends of the pipes. To the obtained value (in this case, "a"), add 100 mm for the connecting pipe to enter the ends of the bends (50 mm for each bend).

Nowadays, traditional metal gutters are increasingly being replaced by modern plastic systems, which are considered more practical and reliable. Although all the previous installation steps are preserved during the installation, much less time and effort is spent on this.

Features of the gutter made of polyvinyl chloride

From a constructive point of view, the plastic drainage system practically does not differ from the metal one. Products released in industrial conditions are equipped with the same set of components intended for arranging horizontal and vertical branches.

The procedure for assembling and installing gutters includes the same number of stages and a similar sequence of operations. At the same time, during the manufacture and installation of PVC structures, it is impossible not to take into account the specifics of the material of manufacture. Polymer-based products usually have a characteristic dimensional instability that depends on temperature fluctuations.

When plastic parts are heated, they elongate; cooling contributes to the return of the previous geometric dimensions. Drains that are operated in street conditions will be cooled in winter and heated in summer. As a result, either lengthening or shortening occurs. Trying to keep the linear dimensions of polymer products in a stable state is practically useless. You just have to adapt to this phenomenon, taking into account it during the design and installation of gutters.

PVC drainage circuits are equipped with special expansion joints and connectors. With their help, harmlessness to the system as a whole is achieved, fluctuations in the size of its individual components. Thus, it becomes possible for them to move in one direction or another.

Also, polymers have another important property, which requires mandatory accounting when equipping the roof with plastic gutters (more: ""). The point is that PVC products of a certain length begin to sag and deform if no supports are provided under them. To avoid sagging of sufficiently flexible plastic gutters, special holders are mounted under them with a step of at least 60 cm.

If this is not done, there is a high probability of sagging of the horizontal sections in the gaps between the supports. This phenomenon is usually provoked either by its own weight, or by the load from precipitation. As a rule, the places of deflections gradually begin to become overgrown with dirt and accumulate water. With the onset of frost, these areas become especially dangerous, as they can burst from freezing.

How to assemble and install a gutter system

Installation work on the construction of PVC gutters is carried out in a strict sequence of individual operations.

A short list of the operations carried out in this case is as follows:

Drafting a project... A simple scheme is being developed, which takes into account the optimal parameters and the number of the main constituent elements of the drainage system. It is also important to consider the mounting hardware.
Assembly and installation of the water intake... It consists of a gutter and a funnel designed to receive atmospheric precipitation. The water intake part collects them from the roof, directing them along the drainpipes.
Assembling and installing the drainage system... It includes drainpipes, the task of which is to direct water flows to the desired part of the blind area or into the storm sewer.

The arrangement of gutters always starts from the top, with a downward movement. This implies the primary assembly and installation of the water intake part, to which the downpipes are subsequently attached. In the course of work, it is important to observe the strict sequence of the installation steps. The reason for this scrupulousness lies in the technological specifics of the system and the technical features of the material of manufacture.

When developing a project for arranging a drainage system, it is important to strictly adhere to certain technological requirements: only in this way can a high-quality removal of precipitation from the roof surface be achieved.

In doing so, consider the following:

Optimal gutter shape... On gable roofs, two separate gutters are most often installed. To equip the four-slope structures, the installation of a continuous type gutter, consisting of several parts, is used. Its construction is carried out using corner connecting elements.
Number of risers... Risers of polymer gutters are installed every 12 m. If the gutter, which usually follows the size of the eaves, is longer than 12 m, you will need to use a pair of risers. The standard water inlet funnels are then supplemented with an expansion funnel.
Feasibility of using compensating funnels... They are usually used in cases where the total length of the gutter exceeds 12 m, or when technical difficulties arise with expansion (usually this is due to the walls of neighboring buildings, if they are located end-to-end). In addition, a continuous drainage system along the perimeter of the roof is often equipped with compensating funnels.
Selection of gutter holders... Installation of downpipes is carried out using hook-shaped brackets of various lengths. The fastening of the long holders is carried out on the battens before the covering is laid. Fixation of short elements on the frontal board can be carried out at any convenient time. Often this is done upon completion of roofing work.
Slope of gutters... This parameter is influenced by the brand of the system used. Manufacturers usually recommend a slope within 2-5 mm, based on 1 linear meter. The arrangement of the slope should be carried out in the direction where the water intake funnel is located. For these purposes, height-offset brackets are used.

It is highly recommended to determine the installation points of the risers at the design stage. At the same time, the visual perception of the exterior composition should not suffer. Most often they are mounted on the corners of the building. Another option for their placement can be a niche created by a bay window or the center of the wall: this is done in cases where the receiving point of the storm sewer system is located there.

If atmospheric water is discharged to the blind area, then the risers must be placed so that the footpaths, ventilation vents and entrances to the basements do not suffer. Designing drainage systems for frame buildings is a more difficult task, since it will require the orientation of vertical lines along the supporting frame posts. The same goes for siding buildings.

How to calculate drainage elements

The determination of the required number of elements required for the construction of the drainage system takes into account the characteristics of each specific case. Increasingly, in the construction of private houses, they try to use original structures, which leaves a certain imprint on the calculation of roofing and drainage systems. However, certain calculation templates make the calculations much easier.

There is a very simple scheme for calculating the drainage of a gable roof, where the length of the slopes does not exceed 12 m:

Gutters... Their footage should correspond to the length of the cornices. Linear thermal expansion of these elements will not encounter any obstacles, therefore, the parameters of the expansion expansions in this case can be omitted.
Gutter Connectors... Since the gutters are 3 m long, each 12 m line is equipped with 3 connectors.
Pair of funnels... By the number of gutters.
Brackets... To calculate the number of hooks, you need to divide the length of the cornice into equal parts, not exceeding 60 cm. Before that, you need to indent from the edge by 50 mm.
Additional brackets... Installed at the corner of the building, the funnel is equipped with another additional holder. If the funnel is located in the center of the wall, two such holders are required.
Two pairs of gutter plugs... Each branch has two stubs.
Upper and lower knees, 2 pcs. Outlets of risers are constructed from them.
Two short pipes to connect the knees. They are used if the eaves overhangs exceed the parameter of 25 cm. Pipe sections are measured and cut at the installation site. If the width of the eaves is less than 25 cm, the knees are joined directly to each other.
Pipes for risers... To determine their length, the distance from the eaves to the ground is measured. In this case, the length of the drainage outlet and drain is subtracted. The ground surface and the riser must be separated by at least 20 cm.
Mounting brackets... Two of them are required: one - on the lower knee, the second - on the drain of the riser. Each connection of the drainage system is made out with the rest of the fasteners, with a step of at least 150 cm. See also: "".

To calculate the drainage scheme of a house with an attic, use the same method. The same applies to equipping multi-tiered pitched roofs with gutters, where each slope is calculated separately. To determine the number of elements and fasteners for a half-hip and hip roof, you will have to face additional difficulties. In this case, you will need to purchase at least four corner pieces and two expansion joint connectors. Compensating and connectors function on the same principle as linear elements. However, in this case, such expansion joints must be installed in each closed loop.

At the same stage, it is necessary to determine the diameter of the future structure. Components for gutters are produced in a number of standard sizes, in order to avoid overflow during the drainage of atmospheric precipitation. According to the technical recommendations, each m2 of the roof should be equipped with downpipes with a cross section of 1.5 cm square. This coefficient is averaged for the central regions of our country. In order to accurately select the standard size of the drainage system, the first step is to determine how much roof area one funnel is able to serve. Since private houses rarely have a slope area of more than 80 m2, then most often pipes with a cross section of 100 mm are used to install gutters, with the possibility of adjusting this parameter in one direction or another.

Installation of gutters, gutters and pipes for example

For ease of understanding, it is better to disassemble a specific example in which the gutter is mounted on long metal brackets after laying the roofing material. Thanks to the use of cement tiles, it is possible to dismantle the lower laying row.

In our case, the installation of the gutters of the drainage system will be carried out on two separate slopes 12 m long. The gable overhangs in this example will have a width of 50 cm.The funnel is mounted so that the riser attached to it is 10 cm from the corner.

First, the long brackets are fixed:

Performing preliminary fitting, with the attachment of the extreme holder to the installation site.
Bend line drawing. In this case, the roof covering should go into the gutter by about 1/3. Once the required point is found, the bracket leg is tagged.
Determination of the slope in relation to the funnel. If necessary, the slope of each meter of the cornice by 3 mm, the total height is determined by multiplying 3 mm by 12. The resulting parameter 36 mm shows the difference in the height of the bends on the extreme hooks.
Draw the fold line. This is done by laying out the required number of brackets in one line, with an oblique line drawn on their legs.
Numbering of marked brackets.
Bending of the gutter holders. The easiest option is to use a vise. Work must be done carefully to avoid damage to the anti-corrosion layer.
Fastening the two outer holders to the surface of the crate.
Stretch one or two control lines between them. One of them is used to indicate the bottom, the second indicates the top points.
Installation of the rest of the brackets on the stretched lines.

This stage is the most difficult. Next, a gutter and a funnel are prepared for installation. For this, the fitting of that section of the gutter is carried out, on which the riser will be fastened by means of a funnel. To determine the exact place for making the hole for the funnel, she puts it over the gutter.

After the outline of the funnel is outlined with a marker, a niche is cut out with a hacksaw, followed by cleaning the cut edges with sandpaper. To fix the funnel to the chute, special snap-on sides are provided.

We build a drainage riser

First, you need to assemble the transition between the horizontal and vertical sections of the drainage system. In the presence of narrow cornices, it is enough to connect the upper and lower elbows.

Wide cornices will require additional work:

Glue connection of the funnel pipe with the upper elbow.
Additional fitting. It is carried out by applying the lower knee to the installation site. Use a ruler to determine the distance between the knees.
To calculate the total length of the connecting section, add the distance between the knees, the height of the upper bend branch pipe and the height of the opposite part of the lower bend.
Cutting and stripping material.
Transition assembly. It is important to mark the point where the upper clamp is attached. After that, the adapter is disassembled again to install the clamp. During the final assembly of the clamp, all its parts are smeared with glue.
Marking the points of the riser clamps. To connect polymer drain pipes, couplings are used, each of which is equipped with a separate clamp.
Docking of the riser elements. In this case, you need to move from top to bottom. When installing couplings, 10-15 mm are left inside the sockets for expansion.
Tightening the clamps. This should not be done very tightly - the pipes should be able to move.
Installation of a drain on the down pipe. For this, waterproof glue is used.

When draining rainwater inside the storm sewer, the riser does not need to be equipped with a drain. In this scheme, the pipe is simply left above the sewer intake at a distance of 50-100 mm. To prevent the system from clogging, the gutters at the top are covered with gratings. There is also an option with the installation of protective nets on the funnels.

The system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and draining it into the storm sewer, or at least further from the foundation of the house, is mandatory for arrangement, therefore it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating the lathing for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that involve fixing the drainage systems after roofing work. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the decision is facilitated by the fact that the manufacturers of drainage systems, having foreseen various cases in which it is necessary to mount a common structure, make them in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only material available for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which, by the way, they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or completely made of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, the "new generation" gutters quickly became very popular among buyers.

Since consumers often have a question about which option is better - a conventional galvanized, metal, polymer-coated or completely plastic, there are a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should be noted right away that each from materials from which gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

Plastic gutter system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes, resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide fastening surface, so they fit snugly against the wind board and are securely held on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration like metal brackets. Therefore, all structural details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices for structures made of other materials - this can be called the most significant of their disadvantages.

with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. Systems withstand external natural influences well, they look very elegant outwardly, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with a polymer protective coating are not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means that the duration of the structure's functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Need extra care when assembling and handling fasteners.

Galvanized steel sheet gutters are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly do with how bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can also casually recall the less popular materials from which gutters for buildings with a certain design solution are made - it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly “biting”. If such systems are chosen, then brackets can also be selected for them, which can be fixed to the eaves of the already roofed roof.

In principle, support brackets of different designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders fit the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to do it by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install the gutters after the roof has been covered?

Now it is necessary to somewhat clarify the moments when circumstances can force the installation of the drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

This process itself, exactly in this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated parts of the soffits installed under the eaves of the roof. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, therefore they plan to fix the drainage gutter on the frontal (wind) board.
Forced fixing of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
Highly widespread the reason when the old drainage system is completely outdated and worn out - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and did not perform their function properly.

Gutter prices

gutters

If in the rafter system it was used for, which, according to the technology, should go to the eaves overhang. Therefore, in this version, it is no longer possible to fix the brackets for laying the gutters to the crate and they must be fixed to the wind board.

How gutter systems are installed along eaves

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the right model will depend on the place and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and versatile:

Long hooks are most commonly used for securing under roofing to decking. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before the installation of a discharged or solid sheathing.
The short brackets can be used to install the gutter system on the frontal board or on the wall of the building. This type of hooks is installed both before laying the roof covering on the rafter system, and after the roof has been equipped. In addition to the frontal board or wall, sometimes this type of brackets is fixed to the end surface of the rafter legs or filly. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be much lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the fibers.
The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible structure that can be used for the installation of drainage systems both before the roofing material is laid down, and after this process. The adjustable length allows them to be used both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, with a wall-mounted roof covering. This will make it possible to determine which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to fix the brackets to the elements of the rafter system:

On the rafter legs, both on the front and on the top or side of them.
On the wind (frontal) board.
Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (smallpox) of the solid sheathing.
To the edge of the roof covering.

The first way is to rafters or crate

If the brackets are fixed before the installation of the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, support long-legged hooks that if necessary, the correct location of the gutter can be bent or they can be left straight. In addition to them, for the installation of drainage systems in this case, sometimes universal brackets are also used.

Fastening hooks to boards (sheets) of lathing

If the roofing has already been installed, for example, if the old drainage system needs to be replaced and it is planned to fix the brackets in this way, then the lower row of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of the coating. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in operation for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material lends itself to dismantling without breaking the integrity or without deformation, especially if it is fixed with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is equipped, laid on a plywood base, you can try to gently lift only the lower edge of the roofing material that runs along the eaves. Then, put the brackets on a solid crate and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafter legs through the plywood covering. The next step is to return the bituminous tile or roofing material to its original position and fix it to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists in securing the hooks to their lateral beams. For this, brackets are purchased or manufactured with a bent, unfolded mounting platform - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is possible only if the rafter legs have a sufficiently large cross-sectional size, for example, 120 × 50 or 150 × 50 mm. In addition, it must be taken into account that the hooks must be fixed so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, overlapping ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise water may overflow in case of heavy rain.

Therefore, if the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafter is chosen, then first you need to make a fitting, which will show whether this installation method is possible.

The second method is to attach the brackets to the frontal board

The easiest way is to install the brackets on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The frontal board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs it can be wide or narrow. The choice of the type of bracket will depend on this parameter.

Suitable for installing the drainage system on the frontal board:

Long brackets, in the event that the frontal board has big enough width. These holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the frontal board.

The short brackets are designed for attaching them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable, the reliability of fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood grains.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the area of the mounting pad, so they will hold the gutter firmly.

In addition to conventional brackets, you can find their adjustable options on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the position of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be dispensed with, for example, when arranging a drainage system on an obliquely fixed wind board or on the crown of a log cabin.

Bracket prices

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the frontal board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holding brackets. First, a guide is fixed on the wind board, which is immediately given the necessary slope. Then, brackets are put on from the side of the profile and moved along the guide, with an arrangement at the required distance. It is not necessary to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when mounting it, you do not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you only need to set the profile with the desired slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang is of a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is bounced on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each running meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then, from the end edge of the frontal board, you need to retreat from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the place where the first bracket is installed.

Further, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (some manufacturers' systems allow a larger step - this is stipulated in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After carrying out such a markup, you can proceed to fixing the brackets on the frontal board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roof covering.

This method is applicable for installing a gutter system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material... The fastening of the hooks-holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which fix the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps, to secure some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, at least 50 mm away from its edge. Others have a construction that does not require drilling in the roof as they are clamped along the edge of the roof. This option is fixed with a screw, which, by analogy with a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave coverage, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to put rubber gaskets under the metal fastening lugs of the clamp, both on the upper and lower sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower, and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary metal long hooks can be altered by yourself, bending them in the right way, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option all the load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a set with a small mass.

The fourth way - with an additional long bracket

In this version, an additional metal L-bracket is used to attach the short gutter holders. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This method of fastening sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roof covering without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120 ÷ 150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafter legs, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof, or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a gutter system with a previously covered roof:

So, if it is necessary to equip a drainage system on an already covered slope, the brackets can be fixed directly on the wall surface, carefully measuring and marking.
Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely positioned soffit if it is of a suitable width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed on metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the soffit surface, by analogy with the picture shown above.
If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen, they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then a hole of the corresponding diameter is first drilled in it, into which the pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, it is necessary to wait until the solution has completely solidified.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins hammered into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the funnel of the downspout is ensured.

The pull-up pendant mount is not as popular as the options described above, but sometimes this design is indispensable. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, there is a bushing with an internal thread on the holder, through it, as well as the upper part of the gutter wall, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or frontal plate.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the gutter both on the frontal board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fastenings are chosen, then the chute must be closed from above with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the lintels, collecting dust and dirt flowing down with water with roofs, and over time, a cork forms in the gutter. In order to prevent overflow of water due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can notice that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Parameters of gutters and the angle of inclination of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of fixing the gutter system, before going to the store for it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge in heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of pipes into which storm drains from the gutter will flow, since if you purchase a pipe of not large enough diameter, it may not cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - to the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. On this score, there are certain standards. So, if the length of the eaves of the ramp is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. With longer eaves, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the cornice to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram with the letter Y, as well as the length of the cornice line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the catchment area of one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, the gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, in the lower part of which the downpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and from it two gutters sloping towards the corners of the structure, where the gutters are installed.

Slope of the gutter gutters should be 3 ÷ 5 mm for each running meter of the gutter length.

Now it is worthwhile to figure out what dimensions of the gutter and drainage pipe must be selected, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m2	Chute section, mm.	The cross-section of the downspout with a slope of the gutter in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	The cross-section of the downspout with a slope of the gutter in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60 ÷ 100	115	87	-
80 ÷ 130	125	110	-
120 ÷ 200	150	-	87
160 ÷ 220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and shows other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, gutter pipe 110 mm
The size of the catchment area, m2
95	148	240	205	165	370
48	74	120	100	82	180
42	50	95	80	65	145

Gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having figured out the principles and methods of installing the drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to downpipes, gutters and brackets-holders for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

Plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket, used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically these parts will be needed in two-pipe gutter systems, or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
The plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on both sides of the gutter.
Drain or outlet funnel, connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical drainpipe.
Elbow - This part is designed to create bends on the downpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and in the lower part to drain water away from the basement of the house. If the gutter and downpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, thanks to which it is far from the wall, and the lower part of the pipe vertically enters into, then the elbows may not be used at all.
Brackets for fixing the downpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps, in which the pipe is fixed.
Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and downpipe holders will be attached.

Brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and choose the optimal installation pitch.
Brackets-clamps for holding downpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm.
The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. Two or one of them can be installed on each slope.
Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they must be purchased with a margin, given that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always use the surplus.

For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and a roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of the drainage system

Tools required for the job

A few words must be said about the tools that will be required to carry out the installation of the drain. It is necessary to correctly understand that the set of tools may differ depending on what material the gutter structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not turn out very neat and it will have to be cleaned.
Shears for cutting sheet metal.
Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
A hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for installing brackets-clamps for a downpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
Pliers will be needed for metal structures.
A rubber mallet (mallet) is required when installing the plugs.
Building level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
Reliable stepladder or scaffolding - for convenience and safety.

Metal hacksaw prices

hacksaw for metal

In the same section, you should immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut the elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a "grinder" (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When cutting with a grinder, the metal or plastic heats up a lot. This leads to the burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cutting area of the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymer protective layer applied to a metal pipe or gutter can begin to peel off even up to 50 mm around the cut, making the metal virtually unprotected against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the craftsmen and cut the details. drains only with tools that indicated above.

We believe that everything you need to install the drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to the consideration of installation work.

The sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing cake is already installed, the most widespread An option for fixing the gutter is to fix the short holders on the wind board. And It should be noted that many roofers find short hooks more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

The short holders do not need to be bent as they are ready for installation.
If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roof covering. Therefore, the work can be done independently without calling the masters.
The cost of the short brackets is slightly lower than the price of the long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of the drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the gutter brackets must be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended that you first draw up a drainage arrangement scheme. In this case, a system with one funnel and a drainpipe will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The layout begins with determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50 ÷ 100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Further, a nail is driven into this point, so that a cord can be tied to it. After that, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the upper edge of the frontal board to the hammered nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the windboard, where the downspout is planned to be installed. With the help of a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire frontal board. To make things easier, you can use a tinted paint cord. Tied to the nail, the cord is stretched along the length of the windboard to the mark made on the opposite side of it.
	Further, focusing on the drawn horizontal, you need to beat off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific slope value, which should be 4 ÷ 5 mm per linear meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact slope length. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board, the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28 ÷ 35 mm. At the end point of the line from the horizontal, the found value is measured, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and the inclined line is beaten off. The markup can be done in a slightly different way. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and a cord is already tied to it. The rest of the actions are carried out in the same way as in the first version of the markup. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets along the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help to fix the intermediate holders exactly along the marked line. So, the crosshairs of the projection from the horizontal to the inclined line, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact attachment point of the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them, you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. There may be more of them - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer for fixing the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed on so that they come into contact with the cord in the same way as the outer brackets.
	After the holders have been screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and the hooks must be checked again that the hooks are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width so that water will flow directly into the gutter without overlapping its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roof covering and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a rail on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30 ÷ 40 mm. This parameter is important due to the fact that if the edge of the bracket is lowered lower, the water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding from the cover, forms a cork in the groove of the gutter. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since, if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to the previously drawn up scheme, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and downpipe. The size of the hole must match the diameter of the waste pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Further, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the pipe diameter. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly bent outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative metal coating as little as possible.
	The next operation - a funnel is attached to the hole in the gutter and hooks onto it with a folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has "ears" that must be bent inward of the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter in the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and be bent away from it. Thus, you get the most reliable fastening of two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed on the gutter. Such a modification of this element makes installation easier, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is the cutting of seals for the side gutter plug with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers, in any case, it must be flexible enough, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. The seals can be supplied with the gutter system, or they can be purchased separately in the same stores where the gutters are sold.
	Further, the sealant must be laid in the grooves along the edge of the plug, which will adjoin the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and the metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration, the second side of this gutter will be joined with another segment that goes beyond the corner.
	Then the plug is installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with the seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, for which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit snugly into the seat.
	Instead of a rubber seal, a roofing sealant can be used, which is applied before installing the plug on the edge of the gutter. Then, another layer must be applied after they are combined from the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that some masters, for greater reliability, use both components for sealing, that is, first install the sealant, and then additionally from the inside of the gutter, apply a layer of roofing sealant. Until the sealant has lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in soapy water. From the outside, such a seal will not be visible and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets fixed to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, it is necessary to calculate in advance how many such elements are required for the entire cornice. In order not to cut the gutter with the funnel and plug installed, it should be installed first. After installing the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press on it so that the outer fold of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for gutters in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snap into place in almost the same way.
	At the junction of two sections of the gutters when they are installed in the brackets, a retainer is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps into place on the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent chute, when installed from the side of the funnel, is wound inside the previously installed one - this will ensure a free drain of water.
	The latch is wound behind the back wall of the joint and put on over its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter, it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the gutter joint is covered from the inside with the same roofing sealant. Apply the sealant in a thin layer and then smooth it with your finger, as it should not obstruct the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways of joining two pieces of gutters or a corner element of the system, if provided by the project. The first one, described above, is the latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the retainer to the back and front walls of the gutters. However, in order to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If the riveter is on the list of household tools, he will greatly speed up and simplify any installation work related to thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the others and it is much easier to install it, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or rivet to the front edge of the gutter, from its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed to the roof covering or to the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to bend slightly. Metal strips can be cut from the remnants of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such braces, hooks are additionally screwed onto the wind board between the brackets to hold the gutters, which only engage on the rear edge. These elements will remove some of the load not only from the holding brackets, but also from the guy wires.
	Now you can proceed to the installation of the vertical part of the gutter. The first step in the funnel installed on the gutter is to mount an elbow, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60 ÷ 70 mm from the wall, since the standard clamp holder is designed approximately for this parameter.
	The elbow is put on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the downpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two bends. To the resulting value, add 35 ÷ 40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Further, the segment is put on top of the knee installed on the funnel, and the second knee of the structure is put on the second side of it. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leaks of the system at the joints of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must go inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be fixed to its lower end, which will set the direction for the water flows passing through the drain. However, it is necessary to provide for the fact that 80 mm of the resulting size will go to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point that needs to be taken into account is that the standard pipe length, like the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and mount in the wall or fix the brackets for the vertical pipe on it. They are installed with a pitch of 1200 ÷ 1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints must also be reinforced with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but below it by 100 mm. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after the clamps are attached to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, immediately fix the drain in the brackets.
	Starting the assembly of the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the top pipe section is inserted into the next section. To make one section of the pipe easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly due to bends that can be made with pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can be done only if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will crack immediately if you try to bend it in this way.
	At the end of the pipe installation, a lower elbow is put on and fixed with a bracket on its lower edge. This element is usually located at a height of 150 ÷ 300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or already installed a drainage system or storm sewer under the drain pipe, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And quite often the pipe is completely included in the storm water inlet.

So, the methods of installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of the calculation and information about what fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that to the maximum extent will approach the specifics of the roof structure, suit the master in terms of the complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

If you do not have the knowledge of how to properly fix the gutter, then first study the process technology in detail from start to finish. Ideal, of course, is to install a drainage system when building a house. But the completed house should not scare you, because the installation of the gutters of the drainage system will only slightly deviate from the basic technology, namely:

1. Installation of fasteners is the beginning of the installation of the entire drainage system, and therefore it is so important to choose the right fasteners, which are the brackets.

Now on the construction market, you can find sets of gutters with selected fasteners. If such a product is not available, then keep in mind that the diameter of the brackets must match the diameter of the gutter.

It is recommended to first calculate the number of these parts based on the material of the drainage elements of the structure. So, for fastening metal elements, it is advisable to maintain a distance between the brackets of 0.5-0.6 m, and for plastic gutters, 3 fasteners per 1 m are required.Add complex external and internal turns here, and you will get the required number of fasteners.

2. Now you need to decide on one of the methods for attaching gutters, for example:

Fastening the gutter to the frontal board. This method involves the use of plastic gutter elements with a fully completed roof. Choosing metal gutters will require the installation of short special hooks.

Please note that this option is applicable in those places where large snow falls from the roofs is minimal, otherwise the drainage system may collapse.

The rafter legs are suitable as a base for attaching the gutter. This option is very reliable on large roofs, but the disadvantage of this method is that it can be used before the roof is laid. In addition, the pitch of the rafters should not exceed 60 cm.
It is possible to fasten the gutter to the profiled sheet, especially since the service life of this roof reaches 30 years.
Fastening the gutter to the cornice is suitable in the case of a metal or ondulin roof. Compliance with the pitch of the rafters of 0.6 m remains relevant here as well.
Fastening the gutter to the wall is carried out when there is no frontal board, rafters, etc. Then metal crutches are driven into the wall, specially designed for installing the gutters with the help of studs.
Fastening the gutter to sandwich panels is one of the most difficult ways to install a drainage system, and also has a more expensive cost. To attach the gutter to this type of roof, the insulation material should be cut under the top paneling. Then you need to push the bar and attach it to the panel below. Hooks are installed on the bar itself, where the gutters of the drainage system are subsequently inserted.

People with low incomes are always interested in how to properly install gutters on a slate roof.

In this case, the method of attaching the gutter to the frontal board will help. At the same time, do not forget to observe the slope of the gutter by 1 m, following the established rules of the SNIP.

There is a more original way, but for this you need to study the instructions on how to properly install gutters made of galvanized steel, especially since to reduce the cost of work, you can make the gutters yourself from galvanized sheets. All we need to do is cut the strips 0.2-0.3 m wide to the required length. Then hammer the grooves into a U-shape and install them under the slate. It is advisable to try to create a slope of the gutter so that it is 1 linear meter 5 mm. In the drainage points according to the Japanese method, you can install chains along which the water will drain without splashing or spilling. And if the chains are also decorated, then the drainage system will turn out to be original in all respects.