Every year the range of lumber is only increasing, and the types of products for construction wooden house or a cottage are getting closer to the ideal. But what to do with simple non-profiled timber, which is gradually being replaced by its counterparts - glued and profiled timber. After all, use inexpensive option edged timber is much cheaper. Craftsmen solve this problem in their own way.

How to make a profiled beam with your own hands, saving money?

There are several options for manufacturing a profiled beam from a regular one, which allows you to save money and get more quality material for construction. All that is needed for this is a little patience and free time, as well as the ability to handle some tools.

Many people ask themselves questions: “Does it make sense to make a profiled beam with your own hands?”, “Maybe it’s easier to buy a ready-made one?”. Of course, buying ready-made material is much easier. However, there are many reasons why the manufacture of profiled timber is especially important:

1. The profile must be of such a geometric shape that it is not blown through. And you do it only for yourself, which means that the profile will be made with high quality.
2. By making profiled timber yourself, you will save 3-5 thousand rubles from each cube of material. Of course, much more time will be spent.
3. Walls made of this material do not need additional finishing, since the insulation will be invisible.
4. The crowns can be made more precisely, and the connecting ones will fit as tightly as possible to each other.

What is the best profile?

When choosing a profile, it is better to calculate your skills and strengths. Making a profile on a bar on your own - it just seems like a simple matter. It takes a lot of perseverance and time to carry out such a task more efficiently. When choosing a profile, it is worth stopping at the most simple designs. To implement them, you do not have to use many types of tools and do not have to do a lot of calculations.

Carefully read GOST 9330-76 "Basic connections of parts made of wood and wood materials”, it will allow you to calculate everything correctly. As a rule, two types of profile are made: profiling through a triangle or profiling through a rectangle.

It is important to understand that before you make a profile, you need to calculate its height, depth and width. Moreover, for each section of the beam, it has its own and helps GOST. Be that as it may, when building a house from this timber, a heater is laid between it (at least 5 cm thick).

How to make a profiled beam with your own hands: ways

1. Using a cutter.

Perhaps this is the easiest way. The milling cutter must be powerful, at least from 1.5 kilowatts and have a special nozzle. In the event that the profile is simple, then the radius of the cutter used will be 4-5 cm. If it is complex, then several types of cutters are produced. If desired, this tool can even make a D-shaped side of the beam. But here you still need an electric planer and a grinder.

It all depends on what kind of manufacturing accuracy you plan to get as a result. The very concept of "profiling" implies the purity and accuracy of the surface. The advantages of this option: if you use a sharp milling nozzle, then it is quite possible to do without subsequent grinding.

But this option also has disadvantages:

• a milling machine is quite expensive (5-10 thousand rubles);
• it is not always possible to buy the necessary nozzle, it may not exist for the milling machine that you have available.

Good for cutting straight grooves.

1. Usage circular saw.

A good way to make a connection on your own is to use improvised tools. For example, using a hand-held circular saw. Such a tool will cost you 3-5 thousand rubles (the price depends on the manufacturer). The main thing is that it can be sawn at the required angle and make a cut of 65 mm.

The advantages of this method:

• the ability to control the accuracy of cutting in depth;
• easy execution of a smooth and straight groove;

Flaws:

• cleaning the groove with this tool will not work;
• there may be insufficient depth of cut;
• each time you need to reconfigure the depth of cut;
• low speed at work.

It is best to resort to it for cutting a triangular groove.

In both versions, this is a painstaking and long work that requires preliminary measurements and accuracy.

Of course, you can successfully combine these tools with each other. For example, if you need to make a quarter with rounding, first cut with a saw, and then round with a router. Do not rush to throw away sawing waste, as they will be useful for joining the timber.

1. Angle connection of the beam.

It can also be made by hand. It is usually made in two types:

• connection in warm corner;
• two-way or one-way simple connection.

All connections are made in accordance with GOST 30974 - 2002. As for the choice of cutting bowls, here you need to build on your own knowledge and skills.

Tools you will need: milling machine or a chainsaw special device, templates for marking, pencil, axe, tape measure and perforator. A puncher is used to drill holes for dowels.

Two way or one way connection

With a two-sided connection, the bowl is cut out from two sides, with a one-sided connection, the bowl is cut out from one side.

At the end of the beam, it is necessary to measure a distance in width equal to the width of the beam, and in depth - half the section. Making such a connection will not be difficult. Next, the bars are stacked on top of each other. Such a connection is often called "cold". This design requires an insulation pad of at least 5 cm.

Connection in a "warm corner"

It should be said right away that it is not easy to do it. This requires precision and special skills. But a warm corner is able to keep heat better and allows you to make the corners smoother.

There are several types of connections in a “warm corner” that you can do yourself: a connection with a root tenon, a key connection.

Make templates according to which the beam will be marked. For example, you can make it from wooden slats. Next, you need to attach a template and perform 3 saws with a chainsaw to the required depth. Then the surplus is chipped off with an ax along the notch. Protect the finished groove. It is important that the cuts have a large size, namely, they are half the cross section of the source material. Thus, it compensates for them during the shrinkage of the house.

Tow tightly fit between the joints. It will be much more difficult to caulk a "warm corner" after laying. Connect the crowns using metal or wooden dowels. Made from leftovers wooden dowels. When drying the timber, the iron dowels will be visible, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance.

Wooden pins are made with a diameter of 20-30 mm, sharpening them on one side. If you make them earlier, they will dry out by the time of construction. You can also make square pins, which will be even easier to make. Moreover, it should have a diagonal larger diameter used drill by 4-6 mm. The length of the dowel should be equal to 1.5 times the thickness of the timber. When drilling holes, this dimension must be taken into account, but adding another 2 cm.

Do not drill near corner connections, since chips may form when driving in the dowels. Such holes must be located in increments of 1.5 m and at a distance of 250 mm from the end.

It will be difficult to make such a warm corner yourself, especially the first time. It requires skills and ability to work with timber. However, if you have time left, you can practice on a thick board or old material.

As you can see, it is possible to make a profiled beam with your own hands, but it is quite long and painstaking. If you have the patience and time, doing this work yourself can save you money. However, if you do not have sufficient skills, we recommend that you spare your strength and nerves by buying a ready-made timber with chopped bowls.

For the assembly of joinery, dowels, round plug-in spikes are often used. When making furniture at home, it is easier to work with dowels, there is no need to cut spikes on the ends of the parts and hammer nests.

Dowels, that is, round blanks, are sold in stores and there is even a choice in diameter. Only here the accuracy is not enough, but to do quality furniture precise adjustment of the dowels to the diameter of the nest is necessary.

Dowels can be made with your own hands using a hand mill and a drill.
To get started, we need square bars with a cross section of 0.5-1 mm. more desired diameter dowels. For example, for the manufacture of dowels with a diameter of 10 mm. , the bars will fit with a section of 11/11 mm. , or 10.5/10.5 mm. .

You can round the edges of the workpieces manual router installed "on the table". We put the cutter under the roll and set the height under the section of the bars.
The cutter should cut less than half of the bar, no need to be greedy.

To hold the dowel during operation, clamps in the form of a comb are useful.
On a planed rail, we cut off the end at an angle and make cuts one after the other like a comb.

We fix the clamps to the milling table with clamps at the input of the part. We pass on the milling cutter each workpiece from all four sides.

As you can see, a perfectly round section does not work, but we don’t need it. We just prepared the material for further work.

For clean processing of dowels to the desired diameter, you need to make a small fixture. We take a planed block of wood hard rock and make a conductor.

From the side of the edge, we drill through holes to hold the workpiece. The hole has two diameters, the inlet is 12 mm. and outlet 10 mm. . An expanded input is needed to install the primary blank, and the output is already exactly the diameter of the dowel.

We cut off the upper part of the block at an angle so that part of the hole is exposed on the cut plane large diameter. On the cutting platform, we place a wide, sharp chisel at an angle and fix it together with the block with clamps or a vice.

We clamp the workpieces slightly rounded on the router with one end into the drill chuck, insert the other end into the inlet, start the drill and go through pressing the bar inward.
The drill with the dowel must be held exactly in the direction of the hole channel.

Perhaps first you still need to adjust the height and angle of the chisel, for a precisely specified diameter. But then we will be able to make any number of identical, perfectly accurate dowels in diameter.

Dowels can be made this way different diameter, only for each diameter you will need a separate block with the necessary holes.
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Chainsaws:. Installation guide, cutting functions, how to dissolve at home, price, photo

Sawing a log on a chainsaw: what you need for this

Some people have the ability to take a certain area in the forest to register to dissolve the trunks, but how will the chainsaw dissolve the log on the boards if it never happened? Those who have been logging for a long time can do it without any fixtures. it is enough for them to reflect the longitudinal line on the trunk and use it to cut a plank or board.

But if you have never done this, you will need certain adaptations, which we will now describe, as well as show the topic in this article.

Cutting logs on chainsaw saws on wood fell

Dissolve the barrel on the board

The note. To cut the trunk on logs, you may need a sawmill or an electric or chainsaw with easel lights.

What is needed for this?

Chainsaw. the most accessible tool, in addition, there are a number of reasons:

• sawing trunks can be done directly for logging. It does not require any stationary or autonomous sources power supply, only one tool;
• compared with electric saw, gasoline has much more power. which is the key moment of longitudinal dissolution of logs;
• he has smooth start and soft speed control. therefore, the risk of breaking the chain during operation is reduced to almost zero (this, of course, is possible, but you need to try very hard for this);
• compared to a sawmill, the price of a gasoline-powered tool is several orders of magnitude lower;
• compared to the electrical unit, the inertial braking is much higher here;
• time of intensive use. The instruction manual allows you to stretch up to 1 hour;
• have the opportunity to work with high humidity(rain, fog)

Tailoring to Trunking

As we have said, experienced sawmills can open logs without any fixtures, but for beginners, you need to make the log fastening machine, saw frame for saws and smooth cutting guide by yourself.

Read also

It should not be forgotten that during such work the tool experiences very heavy loads. Therefore, if you want to do it professionally, then, naturally, you will need an appropriate model, that is, the most powerful one.

Professionals name the most popular and best options, it's a Stihl MS-660 or a Stihl MS-880. These devices produce more than 7 horsepower, which ensures smooth operation under high loads.

Device for longitudinal sawing of logs and timber

Manual sawmill do it yourself. Scheme and dimensions here Homemade fixture for

Sawing attachment logs on boards chainsaw.

frame details

To adjust the thickness of the saw plate to the bar, a special steel frame is applied, which allows you to adjust the distance from yourself to the bar.

The frame is ready. view from different angles

To make this angle, you can buy a 20 × 20 mm square steel tube profile, but you can also use available material. For example, duralumin legs from an old school desk work best here.

A thick board was used as a guide

Read also

AT as a guide to make something like a stationary machine, you'll need some kind of hard metal, most likely steel, profile, or a thick flat board under the log, as shown in the top photo. In fact, it looks exactly like the picture. two goats are installed, and a guide (board or profile) is placed on them.

But it should be borne in mind that such a device can only be used for short logs, because if it is increased (the distance depends on the thickness of the guide), there will be a deviation that will lead to different thicknesses of the material being made.

Timberjit Coarse Grain Mill Machine

The thickness of the slab or saw will only be even if the template is used to drive chain saw. leading ruler or guide. For this purpose, it is very convenient to use the Swedish “Great Timbergit Mill”, which you see above. it costs about 9-10 thousand rubles.

Here it is up to you to decide if you need such a device, but once you have spent, you will get a compact device that, along with the saw, can be brought to the site on a motorcycle.

To get started, you will need a two-stroke saw and a bar with two nuts. With you will be able to open magazines up to 60 cm in diameter, in which case you will have to purchase a chain for longitudinal sawing barrel, but if you don't get one for some reason, then sharpen a regular chain at a 10° angle.

The Timberjeet Big Mill includes many parts to help you patch and fix your wood guide. It turns out that when the chain saw runs along this guide, the frame slides and the bar does not go to the side.

The note. Whatever type of wood you process, in any case, the chain is dull, and in order for the sawing process to proceed without problems, it should be sharpened periodically.

Frame mounted on rail

Chain saw sawing is a process

Now let's see how to cut a log into boards:

• first we make a guide. we take two equal edging wooden planks and fasten them together in the form of a semi-level;
• from pieces of the same boards we make stops for guides with a half slope. fasteners included;
• We roll the log with a tilting machine and put it on a pre-prepared comfortable base;
• fix the frame on the nuts;
• after that we attach the supports. which hold the ruler at the ends of the magazine, checking its horizontal level;
• fixing all fasteners. since the nails at the end of the work will be extremely difficult to pull out;
• we check that the cut line does not run along the ruler, but 10 mm higher;
• start the saw and make the first cut;
• release the log from the stops and rebuild the structure on the next cut line so that it turns perpendicular (90⁰) to the finished cut;
• now turn the beam again and secure it with boards until it hits the ground. the ruler will no longer be useful to you, it will be replaced by the previously made cut.

Conclusion

Of course, cutting magazines on a whiteboard at home is not limited to these two devices. If you do it yourself, you will need to make a trunk, and then with the help of a frame you can assemble boards of any thickness.

All photos from the article

Wood bars are one of the most common types of lumber, which is widely used in construction and manufacturing. wooden structures. In the article, we will consider the types and methods of joining timber, and also find out whether it is possible to attach drywall to wooden bars.

Beam features

Varieties and sizes

A wooden beam is called lumber with the correct rectangular shapes sections. In the terminology of GOST, there are differences between a bar and a bar. So, lumber with a side of 100 mm or more is called a bar, and a bar can have a thickness of up to 100 mm and a width no more than twice the thickness.

The beam is produced by hewing logs or by gluing lamellae together. Lamels are boards from which bars of the desired section are assembled.

A bar is usually made from boards by sawing them to length. If at least one face or both edges of the product are planed, then it is called planed. The beam, depending on the number of processed planes, can be two-edged, three-edged and four-edged.

If the material is processed and dried to the specified dimensions and moisture content, then it is called calibrated. Lumber can be made from hardwood and conifers wood.

For a bar made of coniferous species, the following dimensions are characteristic: 16, 19, 22, 25, 32, 40, 44, 50, 60 and 75 mm in width and thickness. The length can vary from one meter to six and a half in increments of 250 mm.

Since ancient times, the construction of houses and baths was made using log cabins. This is one with ancient technologies, which has come down to our times and is in demand among developers. Such structures have increased environmental friendliness, and thanks to natural material creates a special microclimate.

Coniferous logs, which are used in the manufacture, have a beneficial effect on the nervous and cardiac systems. But how to fold a log house from a bar and what material is better to choose - this question remains open, since laying and cutting down is a purely individual job.

Some Features

Work on the manufacture of the system is done almost manually, the construction of structures using timber is easier, since the logs need to be cut through the gutter and selection. During installation, logs must be selected with the same section.

The log cabin is technological process in construction, where logs are used as a material. This name is also applicable to the house itself. Making a log house from round timber is considered the most economical option.

The design is durable, resistant to seismic changes (unlike brick). Additional processing of logs protects against moisture and insect damage. Before considering how to make a log house from round timber, you need to familiarize yourself with its properties and choose suitable material for construction.

Houses built from round timber are not exposed to the external environment.

In addition, they are durable, because logs processed by hand retain their protective layer, and the log that has undergone rounding does not have a protective layer. The log cabins, installed with the help of round logs, have an individual appearance because of the different diameters, and when laying them alternate. Baths look good especially with the use of round timber.

In houses built from rounded logs, excellent thermal insulation. They are warm even in the most severe frosts and cool when it is very hot outside. Installation of houses from this type is carried out quite quickly, as the logs are processed on woodworking machines and are ready for assembly. They are well made and fit well together. After installation, such buildings do not require additional insulation.

Glued laminated timber is considered much stronger than solid wood. There are no cracks in it, and the knots look pretty decent. Such a beam is covered with special natural impregnations that protect the wood from moisture and insect damage. In addition, they make it resistant to impact. ultraviolet rays and flame retardant. As for the financial side of a house made of this material, it will be much cheaper to fold a log house from a bar than from natural logs.

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Log cabin: characteristics

A log cabin is made of material natural humidity and chopped at the place of its installation. The installation technology consists in laying the beams on top of each other, and the use of dowels gives rigidity to the structure.

Nagel looks like a stick round shape with a section of 25-30 mm from durable species such as birch or oak. At once, a through hole is drilled in several bars at the same time, into which the dowel is hammered.

The hole is made 50-70 mm longer than the length of the dowel, this is necessary so that when the log shrinks, the crowns do not hang and gaps do not form between them. The gap between the pins should be up to 2 meters.

Install dowels near corners, as well as at door and window openings keeping a distance of at least 10 cm from the edge. When installing between the bars, it is necessary to lay a heater, which is used as jute, linen tow or moss.

Cold corners located on the north side are interconnected with spikes, but if the corners are warm, then they are joined with grooves.

To fold a frame from a bar, very often you have to join them, since the main working length is 6 m. The bars can be joined in 3 ways:

1. A horizontal joint is when a part of one beam is superimposed on another. This joint is cold, because when applied, a gap is formed from the outer to the inner edge.
2. A vertical joint is considered to be the imposition of one beam on another in a vertical position, and the joint is formed warm.
3. Docking of the beams is made by the end side, and a flat spike is made in the inner part of the joint. This joint is also warm.

As the entire log house will be mounted, only after that window and door openings are cut down. In the center of the openings, in order to avoid deformation during shrinkage, it is necessary to lay a bar.