The machine itself consists of aluminum profiles and 3D parts that I created and printed on my own. I chose 3D details because I don't have a variety of tools and equipment that would allow me to create accurate and high-quality elements. crafts. Therefore, my 3D printer helped and simple hand tools for final assembly.

Step 1: Materials

• support for guides ∅ 2 cm - 8 pcs
• guides ∅ 2cm x 30cm - 2pcs
• guides ∅ 2cm x 60cm - 2pcs
• worm guide 30cm - 1pc
• worm guide 60cm - 1pc
• Z axis for CNC
• caliper with internal thread
• smooth sleeve
• bracket for router
• stepper motors
• adapter for motor shaft (from 1cm to 0.6cm)
• microswitches - 6 pcs
• crimp connectors
• contact connectors with fixing nut – 4 pcs
• plugs for contact connectors - 4 pcs
• cable
• aluminum profile with T-slots 60x30: for the frame and top - 65cm, for the table - 315cm (profile with holes in the end), verticals - 61cm (+ 4 end caps)
• aluminum profile with T-slots 120x30: sides - 61cm (+ 4 end caps)
• T-bolts M6
• bolts and nuts M6
• bearing 1cm x 2.2cm

Step 2: 3D details

In 3D design software, I created mockup brackets that will hold the rails, as well as a mockup bracket for the stepper motor that attaches it to the frame. A big plus of 3D printing is that the parts are very accurate and there is no need to fit them and drill holes. So by designing necessary details crafts here in this program, I then printed them on my 3D printer.

Step 3: Worm Guide Holes

I drilled holes for the worm guide in the side end profiles, they should be a little larger diameter the guides themselves (1cm).

Step 4: Assembly

With the help of T-shaped and ordinary bolts, I assembled braindetails together.

Step 5: Limit Switches

On the assembled structure fixed the limit switches that will turn off the movement of the router carriage at the end points.

The cable was wired on the principle of "normally closed", that is, with a short circuit homemade will go into safe mode. To do this, I had to modify the power supply of the control unit and put an emergency shutdown button.

Step 6: Setting Mach3 Options

For adjusting axis movement values ​​I used this helpful site and got:
Stepping angle of motors - 1.8 °
Gear ratio of motors and worm guide 1:1
CNC controller value ¼ step
for Z-axis: worm gear 9.53mm (2.11mm leading), travel in mm 379.47
for X and Y axis: worm gear 9.53mm (5.08mm leading) x 381mm, travel in mm 157.48

Step 7: Final Step

As a final touch, I cut and installed an MDF worktop that is quick and easy to place/change workpieces.

Well, most last step there was a connection brain machine to the computer and start it, though it still took a lot of time to read the instructions for Mach3 🙂

Step 8: Finishing - Body

The first thing I did after all the basic work was the electronics case, which will protect electronic parts from dust and other troubles.

Step 9: First Trials

Testing brain machine went well, but revealed a few shortcomings:

- Y-axis backlash. The Y-axis worm is installed in regular calipers, but later I plan to install backlash-free calipers.

- when the carriage moves quickly along the Y axis, there are slight frame deviations. The reason is the imbalance of the frame, and I plan to solve it by installing an additional aluminum profile, which at the same time will strengthen the entire frame.

- false alarms of limit switches. Possible cause of homing from unshielded cable. I had to make changes to the code to reconfigure their operation.

Step 10: Refinement - Speed ​​Control and Emergency Stop Button

The router that I installed on my brain machine, has a fixed speed of rotation of the cutter, so I had to install an additional speed controller, namely the AC control module.

Even in the break of the supply wires, I mounted an emergency stop button, which, if necessary, turns off both the router and the movement of the carriage.

Here is my first CNC machine! Thank you for brain attention and good luck with your work!

Related article self-built small CNC woodworking machine (engraving, milling, drilling), also suitable for others soft materials, for example, plastic. Good for milling printed circuit boards and similar work. This and the following articles describe common components and techniques for assembling not only CNC machines, but also 3D printers, engravers and similar equipment. There is a lot of information, a lot of links and photos, the project is open, advice and criticism (on the case) is welcome.

Here are some photos appearance assembled CNC2418 machine from lots of sellers from Ali

Examples of lots with Ali with a laser and an ER11 collet (DZT store, Jack's store, IRouter store).

So, I’ll tell you about a fairly popular Chinese machine under the simple name CNC2418, which means working area 24 mm by 18 mm. It has a simple (collector) revving engine as a spindle direct current type 775. Controlled via GRBL compatible programs, but first things first.

As a rule, it is sold in the region of $250 (from $170 to $300) in different configurations. There is a version with different spindles (different variations of the 775th engine), with different collets (from simple for drills to ER11), can be equipped laser module. Usually sellers invest consumables, cutter bits and more.

Characteristics of the machine 2418:

1. Working field - 240 mm x 180 mm x45 mm
2. Frame (bed) size - 260 mm x180 mm (aluminum profile)
3. Overall size - 330x340x240
4. Stepper motors: 3pcs Nema17 1.3A 0.25Nm
5. Spindle: Diameter 45mm, model 775, 24V: 7000 r/min
6. The maximum shank diameter of the cutter depends on the installed collet
7. Power: 24V 5.6A

Electronics such as Atmega + CNC Shield, EleckMill, or original boards, but with GRBL firmware. Controlled using GrblController, UniversalGcodeSender, grblControl, using *.nc files. You need to generate such files separately.

Here is a photo of the average $250 kit (including the laser engraving kit)

There is usually a choice of collets in the lot: a simple "drill" or an ER11 type collet. In lots more expensive there are both options plus milling cutters.

Seriously speaking, the market value of such assembly kits is greatly inflated. I'm not ready to pay under $300 for a similar set. But to assemble it with your own hands is three times cheaper - please! Next, I will give a selection of components from Chinese stores, on the basis of which you can safely assemble a similar machine or a machine with a larger / smaller working field.

For assembly, you will need to buy a set of guides: rails or polished shafts; lead screws (most often T8, since belts of the GT2-6 type can be installed in laser engravers, their use in a router is not desirable), Nema17 motors, a spindle (most often a DC motor of the RS775 type or more powerful) and various small things such as bearings, calipers , hardware.
The issue of electronics is separate: someone uses Arduino Nano / Uno + CNC Shield boards, someone Mega + Ramps, there are options for more serious kits for Mach3.

Drawing your attention to the fact that the original kit contains 3D printed components.

The use of such plastic parts is clearly visible in user photos from the Internet, and in lots from sellers

The printed kit includes a spacer-corner (2 pcs), X screw holder, Y screw holder, LM8UU bearing holders (or rather their imitations) 4 pcs, T8 nut holder.

Separately, I will highlight the assembly of the spindle holder, at the same time the carriage in XY.
It also comes assembled with the engine installed.

Inside you can see pressed LM8UU bearings and somewhere a T8 nut. The shafts are drilled from the end and fixed at the ends. At the same time they serve as an additional support for the structure.

I give links to the kit from banguud, because I'm tired of buying 1 lot from different sellers with Ali and waiting for a bunch of parcels coming to different time. Prices comparable to Ali, somewhere cheaper, somewhere it’s more convenient to use points, somewhere to wait for a promotion or coupon. As a result, I received one large parcel with a kit. I also give keywords for self-search if you need to find something similar on Ali or Tao.

Now in order. Received a parcel of various kits for machine tool mechanics.

Polished guide shafts.
Linear Shaft (Rod). Still found optical axis(polished axle). There are 5-6-8-10-12-16-20 mm. The current diameter is 8 mm. For 16-20mm it is better to use round rails like SBR16 or SBR20 as they have support. Shafts different diameter are used, for example, in the Ultimaker printer (6-8-10 mm). By the way, 12mm shafts can be useful for the Z-axis of the ZAV 3D printer and the like.
In the photo 6 mm, 8 mm, 12 mm.

Shafts 8 mm. I took a part in size (they are chamfered), I cut a part myself

There is a large lot with a choice of shafts from 5 mm to 12 mm and lengths of 300-600 mm

Individual lots are slightly cheaper. I try to take the length either in size or much more in order to independently cut 2-3 pieces of the desired size from one shaft.

Here is a cut with a miter saw. It is desirable then to clean, chamfer.

Shaft 8x300
Shaft 8x600
Shaft 8 mm with lengths 300...500 mm
Shaft 8 mm with lengths 100…350 mm
Comfortable when sized. Yes, and from time to time they make promotions for different lots, if you don’t rush to assemble the machine, you can save money.

Shaft 6x400
Shaft 6x300
Shaft 6x500
Shaft 6x600

6mm shafts can be used in small laser engravers, delta printer, Z-axis desktop CNC machines. For example, a 6x300 shaft, sawn in half, went to the "head" of the Z axis of a small router.

Shafts on 12 mm. Took for ZAV 3D.

Shaft 12x400
Shaft 12x500

Will be installed in the ZAV 3D case

There are several mounting options for rails. The easiest is to cut the threads at the ends and lock them. Flanges type SHF08 or calipers SK8 can be installed. In this case, the length is increased by 2 cm for each guide (one flange covers 1 cm of the shaft).
I typed myself, I will not say that big difference, but the savings is about $12. Here is a link to the lot for fitting SHF08 normal metal flanges, not plastic ones. More a good option fastening not with flanges, but with calipers, directly on the 2020 profile. This is a SH08 (SF08?) caliper.
There is also a “Chinese” mounting option, when a hole is drilled in the center of the shaft and an M3 internal thread is cut. In this case, the installation of such guides is as easy as possible.

Flanged calipers for mounting shafts from SHF8 to SHF20
Flange SHF8
Caliper SK8
Another SK8 support for profile shafts

Shaft bearings
Lot with choice of size short linear bearings LMххUU on 6/8/10 mm
Keywords: Bearing LMххLUU (for xx mm, long), LMххUU (for xx mm, short), in the body, respectively: SC8LUU and SC08UU.
Elongated lot with a choice of type SCSxxLUU from 8 to 20 mm.
Also extended by 8 mm
Bearings in SC8UU housing
For 6 mm LM6LUU extended and regular LM6UU

For 12mm LM12UU
Here is a photo of an electronics bench machine with 8mm shafts, LM08LUU and SC08UU bearings

Here are interesting kits-sets of axles with guides and bearings
500 mm with extended bearings

The same, plus a T8 screw with a caliper for 200mm, 300mm and 400mm

Lead screw T8 ( Lead Screw T8, screw T8 Nut) is a screw with multiple threads. It is better to take immediately with a nut.

If sawing, then in addition it will be necessary to buy more brass nuts
At 100 mm
At 200 mm
At 250 mm
At 400 mm
Lot with a choice of T8 from 100 to 600 mm with a special nut
I usually take more, plus one nut. I cut to size, the rest goes somewhere else

Flange bearing KFL08 for fastening the T8 screw to the end surface (Flange Bearing KFL08)
Caliper flange KP08 for fastening the T8 screw to the Mount Bearing KP08 profile Assembly will also require a structural profile, 3D printed parts (holders, corners, etc., links at the end of the article), as well as electronics.

Profile accessories:
corners 2020 Corner Bracket.
To assemble a machine type 2418, a minimum of 16 pieces will be required. Take with a margin)))
There are options for reinforcement plates, it would also be nice to install them at the main corners and on the portal (total 6-8 pieces).

T-nuts M4 for profile 2020 (8mm slot) 100 pcs. It's also better not to be trifled. One hundred pieces will scatter in a moment, especially considering that they can attach anything to the profile. To order: T Nut M4 (there are M3, M5, for a groove of 6 mm)

And here is the 2020 profile itself.

Since I started talking about the profile, I will tell you in detail about the purchase and cutting of the profile from the Soberizavod.

This is a structural aluminum profile from Soberizavod. This is probably the most cheap option, since a profile from China will cost more, and there is a limit on the maximum length of parcels in Chinese mail (500mm).

I bought a 2020 profile kit cut to size for the CNC2418.
There are two options - uncoated profile (cheaper) and coated (anodized). The difference in cost is small, I recommend coated, especially if used as roller guides.

Choose desired type profile 2020, then enter "cut to size". Otherwise, you can buy one piece (whip) for 4 meters. When calculating, keep in mind that the cost of one cut can be different, depending on the profile. And that 4 mm is laid on the cut.

Enter the dimensions of the segments. I made machine 2418 a little larger, these are seven pieces of 260 mm and two vertical pieces of 300 mm. Vertical can be made smaller. If you need a longer machine, then two longitudinal sections are larger, for example, 350 mm, transverse ones are also 260 mm each (5 pcs).

The question of how to make a CNC machine can be answered briefly. Knowing that a home-made CNC milling machine, in general, is a complex device with a complex structure, it is desirable for the designer:

• get drawings;
• purchase reliable components and fasteners;
• prepare a good tool;
• have a lathe and drilling machine CNC machined to quickly manufacture.

It does not hurt to watch the video - a kind of instruction, teaching - where to start. And I’ll start with preparation, I’ll buy everything I need, I’ll deal with the drawing - here the right decision budding designer. That's why preparatory stage, preceding the assembly, is very important.

Works of the preparatory stage

To make a homemade CNC for milling, there are two options:

1. You take a ready-made running set of parts (specially selected units), from which we assemble the equipment ourselves.
2. Find (make) all the components and start assembling the CNC machine with your own hands, which would meet all the requirements.

It is important to decide on the purpose, size and design (how to do without a drawing homemade machine CNC), find schemes for its manufacture, purchase or manufacture some of the parts that are needed for this, acquire lead screws.

If a decision is made to create a CNC machine with your own hands and do without ready-made sets of components and mechanisms, fasteners, you need the scheme assembled according to which the machine will work.

Usually, finding circuit diagram devices, first they model all the details of the machine, prepare technical drawings, and then use them on the turning and milling machines(sometimes it is necessary to use drilling) make components from plywood or aluminum. Most often, work surfaces (also called a desktop) are plywood with a thickness of 18 mm.

Assembly of some important machine components

In the machine that you started to assemble with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for a number of critical nodes that ensure the vertical movement of the working tool. In this list:

• screw transmission - rotation is transmitted using a toothed belt. It is good because it does not slip on the pulleys, evenly transferring forces to the shaft of the milling equipment;
• if used stepper motor(SD) for a mini-machine, it is advisable to take a carriage from a larger printer model - more powerful; old dot matrix printers had fairly powerful electric motors;

• for a three-coordinate device, you need three step motors. Well, if there are 5 control wires in each, the functionality of the mini-machine will increase. It is worth evaluating the magnitude of the parameters: supply voltage, winding resistance and the rotation angle of the stepper motor in one step. To connect each stepper motor, a separate controller is needed;
• with the help of screws, the rotational movement from the stepper motor is converted into a linear one. To achieve high accuracy, many consider it necessary to have ball screws (ball screws), but this component is not cheap. When choosing a set of nuts and mounting screws for mounting blocks, they are chosen with plastic inserts, this reduces friction and eliminates backlash;

• instead of a stepper motor, you can take a conventional electric motor, after a little refinement;
• the vertical axis that moves the tool in 3D, covering the entire XY table. It is made from aluminum plate. It is important that the dimensions of the axis are adjusted to the dimensions of the device. In the presence of a muffle furnace, the axis can be cast according to the dimensions of the drawings.

Below is a drawing made in three projections: side, rear, and top view.

Maximum attention - bed

The necessary rigidity to the machine is provided by the frame. A movable portal, a system of rail guides, a stepper motor, a work surface, a Z axis and a spindle are installed on it.

For example, one of the creators of a self-made CNC machine made the supporting frame from the Maytec aluminum profile - two parts (section 40x80 mm) and two end plates 10 mm thick from the same material, connecting the elements aluminum corners. The design is reinforced, inside the frame a frame is made of smaller profiles in the shape of a square.

The bed is mounted without the use of welded joints (welds are poorly able to withstand vibration loads). It is better to use T-nuts as fasteners. On the end plates, a bearing block is provided for installing the lead screw. You will need a plain bearing and a spindle bearing.

The craftsman determined the main task of the hand-made CNC machine to be the manufacture of aluminum parts. Since workpieces with a maximum thickness of 60 mm were suitable for him, he made a portal clearance of 125 mm (this is the distance from the top cross beam to work surface).

This difficult installation process

Collect homemade cnc machines, after preparing the components, it is better strictly according to the drawing so that they work. The assembly process, using lead screws, should be performed in the following sequence:

• a knowledgeable craftsman begins by attaching the first two step motors to the body - behind the vertical axis of the equipment. One is responsible for horizontal movement milling head(rail guides), and the second for moving in a vertical plane;
• a movable gantry moving along the x-axis carries the milling spindle and carriage (z-axis). The higher the portal, the larger the workpiece can be processed. But high portal, in the process of processing, - the resistance to emerging loads decreases;

• front, rear, top, middle and bottom plates are used to fasten Z-axis stepper motors, linear guides. In the same place, make a lodgement for the milling spindle;
• the drive is assembled from carefully selected nuts and studs. To fix the motor shaft and attach it to the stud, use the rubber winding of a thick electric cable. Screws inserted into the nylon sleeve can be used as a retainer.

Then the assembly of the remaining components and assemblies of the homemade begins.

We mount the electronic filling of the machine

To make a CNC machine with your own hands and control it, you need to operate with a properly selected numerical control, high-quality printed circuit boards and electronic components (especially if they are Chinese), which will allow you to implement everything on a CNC machine functionality, processing a part of a complex configuration.

In order to avoid problems in management, home-made CNC machines, among the nodes, have the following mandatory:

• stepper motors, some stopped like Nema;
• LPT port through which the CNC control unit can be connected to the machine;
• drivers for controllers, they are installed on a mini-milling machine, connected in accordance with the diagram;

• switching boards (controllers);
• a 36V power supply unit with a step-down transformer that converts to 5V to power the control circuit;
• laptop or PC;
• emergency stop button.

Only after that, the CNC machines are tested (at the same time, the craftsman will make a test run by downloading all the programs), the existing shortcomings are identified and eliminated.

Instead of a conclusion

As you can see, making a CNC that is not inferior to Chinese models is real. Having made a set of spare parts with the right size, having high-quality bearings and enough fasteners for assembly, this task is within the power of those who are interested in software engineering. It won't take long to find an example.

In the photo below - some samples of machine tools with numerical control, which are made by the same craftsmen, not professionals. Not a single part was made hastily, of arbitrary size, but fitting the block with great accuracy, with careful alignment of the axes, using high-quality lead screws and with reliable bearings. The statement is true: as you collect, so you will work.

On the CNC, processing of an duralumin blank is performed. Such a machine, which was assembled by a craftsman, can perform a lot of milling work.

Purelogic R&D offers to purchase on favorable conditions structural aluminum profile. It is a durable and lightweight material to create engineering systems of any complexity and purpose. The machine profile is used for the manufacture of the CNC machine bed. In addition, it is used to assemble personnel workplaces, travel axes, coordinate tables etc.

Structural aluminum profile is made using hot extrusion technology. It is obtained by extruding material through a special extruder die. Various aluminum alloys can be used as feedstock.

The most important advantage and main difference of a machine profile product is the ability to quickly change the design, build it up, rebuild and modernize it.

This section presents:

• structural aluminum profile;
• type-setting aluminum work tables of various sections;
• aluminum corners;
• cable channels.

The guide profile can be supplemented with various accessories:

• vibration mounts;
• end and slot plugs;
• wheel supports;
• end mounting plates.

Features of using a structural profile

Products made from high strength aluminum alloys and having a complex section, provide:

• the possibility of rapid assembly and disassembly of structures. This allows you to quickly carry out repair work, various upgrades, and move equipment to a new location. It is possible to make changes to the created object at any stage of its readiness, which is especially important in the manufacture of special-purpose devices and various non-serial machines;
• high strength of joints in the absence of welding;
• optimal combination of light weight and strength characteristics. This is achieved through the use of wrought alloys based on aluminum and a complex cross-sectional configuration;
• minimum labor and financial costs, efficiency of execution in the design and creation of structures of any complexity.