In total, there are about a hundred species of marsupial fungi of the genus Ceratocystis in nature, which stain certain types tree species in blue color. In wood protection guides, the term blue or chemical color is used to refer to such fungi.

The most famous blue of the pines, which colors the lumber sawn from pine in a bluish-gray color. Pine lumber begins to turn blue when wet and dry. warm weather when the average daily temperature is set above + 10 ° C, while the occurrence of blue requires wood moisture content of more than 20% and poor ventilation. For Ural region this time usually comes at the end of the May holidays and ends with the onset of the first frost, so it is more advisable to purchase lumber for construction in the winter.Purchased lumber is stored at the construction site in piles on spacers, i.e. each row in the stack is separated by spacers for better ventilation. Such stacks of lumber are very well ventilated during the spring months, and by the beginning of the construction season you get dry lumber with a moisture content of about 18%, which is no longer afraid of blue.

Blue lumber with a moisture content of less than 20% humidity is quite suitable for construction purposes, the strength of such lumber does not deteriorate, it is also noted that when such wood is painted or coated with any compositions, the absorption of such wood is much higher. However, it should be remembered that it is necessary to prevent the recurrence of suitable conditions for the growth of the fungus, since the process of blue development will be started again.

Blue on wood can also develop in an already built house, again if favorable conditions arise for its development. As a rule, if blue develops inside the house, then this first of all indicates very poor ventilation of the rooms in the house, excess moisture is not removed, thereby contributing to the development of blue, and then the appearance of mold.

During normal operation of a house built using lumber, the wood inside the building has a moisture content of about 6 - 12%, and on outside at home, such as the roof area, the edged board has a humidity　within 15-18%. From this it follows that, only under very difficult weather conditions (rainy season, flood) and poor ventilation, the moisture content of wood in such areas can exceed the 20% level.

Let me remind you once again that the main reasons for the appearance of blue on wood are: poor ventilation or stillness of the air, very high humidity, average daily temperature above + 10 ° C. Freshly sawn lumber is more prone to bluing than dried lumber, but dry lumber can also turn blue. Therefore, do not allow the occurrence of the above conditions, and this misfortune called "blue" will bypass you.

Wood storage - important process worth giving Special attention. However, what to do if it has already begun to turn black. We'll give you some good advice.

heavy rainfall, high humidity and temperature fluctuations - all this is not the most in the best way affects the harvested lumber. As a result, he may begin to turn black, respectively, lose his presentable appearance. However, this can be fought.

visual signs

We often see that during the construction of fresh lumber, various visual defects form on it. It could be:

• the widespread appearance of blue;
• individual blue or black-gray spots;
• mold.

It must be emphasized that blueness or the appearance of a small number of spots is one of the negative properties characteristic of building material from coniferous wood. However, do not panic, and even more so refuse to build.

The lumber has turned black. What is the reason?

The formation of blue-gray, blue-black paints on lumber is the formation of a blue fungus. This fungus is a class of wood-staining fungi. They secrete enzymes that color the sapwood of the wood.

Blue mushrooms develop well at a temperature of 26 degrees. The most favorable humidity for them lies in the range from 35 to 80%. At temperatures below 2 and more than 40 degrees and humidity less than 20% and more than 100%, fungi do not form. They only affect the aesthetic appearance of the lumber, but do not affect mechanical properties wood. It must be understood that during the operation of the house, the moisture content of lumber in it is about 10% inside and 18% outside, so the development of blue fungi is impossible.

The main question of many buyers is whether lumber deteriorates from blue and how to remove it. If at the construction stage traces of the development of blue fungi were found in you, there is nothing to worry about. They themselves will cease to exist when the lumber dries out or ventilates. Especially often wood-staining fungi develop in spring or autumn, during a period of high humidity and high temperature on the street.

If you are concerned about the aesthetic appearance of lumber, you can treat it with a chlorine solution, which completely removes traces of blue from the wood. There are special wood bleaches on sale that will tidy up its appearance. With good ventilation and dry air, the blue will stop developing itself, and its traces can be removed with a specialized tool.

The House Building Center company monitors the quality of materials. If the lumber has turned black and lost its presentation during the construction process, then our specialists will process it in a timely manner.

If you need an inexpensive and quality house, welcome to visit us! Domostroeniya Center is one of the largest companies in this segment with vast experience, a staff of highly qualified and professional employees. We are ready to offer customers more than 100 options finished houses, as well as erect a structure according to your project. Our pleasant surprise will be affordable prices and the highest professionalism. Each order comes with a 3 year warranty. For detailed consultation call: 8(8212) 48-47-48 !

Preparing lumber for building a house is proper storage no signs of damage. This was discussed in our previous article.

If the material was bought fresh, it must dry. A situation often arises when, despite precautions and right action after laying for storage, the wood turned blue in a matter of days, began to stain.

Why do the boards start to turn black?

Seeing that the purchased lumber began to darken, do not be annoyed with yourself that you did not see it. And the supplier did not let you down.

It must be understood that darkening for living wood is a normal process of exposure to fungal organisms, which is more active in warm weather at temperatures above 5 °C. Loose rocks, for example, pine, as well as more dense ones - larch, spruce, fir, even beech are exposed to it.

Fungal spores are carried through the air, penetrate the wood along with rainwater. Distribution is affected by temperature and humidity. It follows that the creation of ideal conditions for storage is not always feasible.

Has a blue-green coating appeared on the beam? There is no reason to be upset. It's not rotting. However, if you do not join the fight, lumber eventually becomes unusable. Such a nuisance is overcome by timely and competent processing actions.

Why is it important to process wood for construction?

Fungi that infect wood can be of two types:

• wood-staining - do not destroy the strength of the tree, but affect the appearance, painting it blue, black;
• wood-destroying - the most dangerous, since some independently produce moisture for development, under their influence the wood becomes porous, rots and decays over time. It is impossible to fight them.

How to check which fungus has hit the tree, is it rotting or easily removable mold? This can be done with a nail: if, when pressed, it enters the body of the tree more than 0.5 cm, the tree rots; if the hand feels resistance, everything is in order and it will be enough to remove plaque, treat it with bleaching and antiseptic agents.

Builders usually deal with new wood, on which blue fungus is more common. Close attention those lumber that is planned to be used for interior decoration residential premises. For example, larch lumber, popular as a floorboard, which is covered with a clear varnish to preserve the visible part of the beautiful structure of the tree. By itself, larch is resistant to bacteria. But the blue fungus, "settled" inside, eventually destroys the outer coating, provides moisture access to the tree, which contributes to its development and infection with other types of bacteria.

Scientific fact: destructive bacteria affecting wood are dangerous for humans. And their eradication is taking care of the most important thing: people's health.

Therefore, during construction, it is important to prevent an infected tree from being consumed. To do this, it is enough to remove the fungus with special means and prevent it from spreading. After that, the tree can be used for its intended purpose.

Ways to "treat" damaged lumber

The first way to save wood building material is processing antiseptic solutions before dark.

When asked what to do if the boards are moldy, blue or blackened, there is only one answer: immediate processing.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. Wood bleach treatment. Let's say the timber has darkened by 3–4 centimeters, this can be seen in the cross section. Bleach will help here, penetrating deep into 5 centimeters.
2. Treatment with an antiseptic agent that prevents the development of bacteria in the body of the board.

The sequence of application of wood protection products

Bleach and antiseptic impregnate the wood deep into. There are also tools that perform the function of protection. They only create the top layer.

If we talk about saving wooden structures on a large scale, then fire protection should be added to the means of combating biological damage that affects wood structures - it is provided by flame retardants.

The tree is flammable material in any climate. And relevance flame retardant treatment obvious. This is especially true for rafters.

This is where the order in which funds are applied matters. The first is an antiseptic that penetrates the wood fibers. Then - flame retardant, which creates the upper protective layer.

There are also universal flame retardants on the market. Their use is possible without additional compositions, if there is no need for the initial restoration of the whiteness of the wood structure.

Rules for applying protective equipment

When processing wood, the following points should be considered.

• An effective processing method is immersion. Alternative methods are using a brush or spray gun.
• It is impossible to mix preparations, simultaneous exposure is destructive for wood fibers. Each subsequent product is applied only after complete absorption and drying of the previous one.
• An increase in the degree of protection is achieved either by highly concentrated preparations or by the number of applied layers.
• It is not necessary to process wet and frozen wood, since an antiseptic is the same moisture, and a tree containing water is not able to fully absorb.
• For processing, it is better to choose a warm season.
• Antiseptic and flame retardants should be applied using personal protective equipment, since a chemical burn of the skin is possible if the drugs come into contact with unprotected areas of the body.
• Another point that affects the quality of processing is the implementation of preparatory manipulations with lumber before starting work with it. That is, treatment with antiseptics and flame retardants before changes occur in the structure of the tree under the influence of fungi, when it is possible to treat the tree from all sides, and not just its visible part in the structure.

For every situation in the processing of wood materials, there is individual solution. If we are talking about a floor board, for example, in an apartment, then antiseptic or varnish coating will be sufficient. If we are thinking about protecting the rafters in a private house, then the use of varnish will be useless, unless the open rafters are part of the design of the room, but additional protection from fire in two or three layers will be the best solution.

For advice and purchase of wood protection products, contact the specialists of the Alliance-Stroy company. Durable buildings!

It is not enough to design and build a beautiful and durable wooden house, it is necessary to protect it from a common and difficult to remove problem - mold. It grows rapidly and destroys beams, logs, boards, trim elements and carved decor. It is necessary to take timely and effective measures to combat the fungus, do you agree?

For zealous owners, we have collected and given all the effective ways to exterminate the fungus and stop its spread. Here you will learn how to remove mold from wooden surfaces, and what to do to permanently exterminate fungal colonies.

We offer to get acquainted with folk remedies and household chemicals factory production, we describe in detail the technology for using the compositions. Useful information complement the illustrations step by step photo instructions and video tips.

The first signal that mold has started in the house is a change in the color of wooden surfaces, the appearance of characteristic blue, brown, pink and whitish spots, gray stains and a moistened surface. Some fungi do not destroy the texture and do not penetrate deep into the wood, but they spoil the appearance of the wooden wall cladding, floorboards, and ceiling finishes.

Not only in country houses, built from rounded logs or timber, but also in city apartments with a poorly adjusted ventilation system or drafts. For example, on the lining, which is often ennobled by a balcony or loggia, unpleasant dark spots may appear.

Black mold colonies on boards appear much less frequently than on stone, brick or tile grout, and blue is a frequent guest in timber houses.

If, during the construction of the house, the timber or log was not treated with antiseptic impregnation, soon pale ink stains of mold, called "blue", will appear on the wooden surface.

Fungi, like the very common blue, completely change the color of the wood. They feed on protein, starch, sugar and grow quite quickly - a spot can double in size in just 10 days. But for this, one condition is necessary - the moisture content of the wood is above the norm.

It is believed that blue does not affect strength characteristics, therefore scaffolding and spore-infested lumber is often tested for suitability, and mold can be found in a batch of boards destined for refurbishment.

The most dangerous for wood is putrefactive fungus. It feeds on the fibers of the material, splitting them with secreted enzymes. First, bright colors appear on the surface of the boards and logs. brown spots and after a few weeks or months wooden elements are falling into disrepair.

On the initial stage you can still get rid of the fungus by cutting and carefully polishing the surface (if possible), but if the mold penetrates deep into the board or log, it can no longer be saved

Sometimes the process of development of the hearth takes place secretly: several subtle divorces appear on the upper part, but active destruction occurs inside. "Sick" parts of the sheathing or log house can be recognized by a dull thud. Durable-looking timber, affected by rot, breaks when pressed.

Mold is harmful not only to the wood itself, but also to people who inhale the air contaminated with spores. If there are allergy sufferers in the house, when foci occur, they will always feel unwell. Small fungi are dangerous for healthy people- they can provoke the occurrence or exacerbation various diseases respiratory system.

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The most vulnerable and prone to mold in wooden house is or a combined bathroom. The shower room suffers in the same way, even if the box is impeccably sealed and does not let water drip through.

Therefore, when arranging hygienic rooms in buildings made of timber or logs, it is required to without fail observe the technology of their organization and use protective antiseptics.

Reasons for the destruction of wood

Suppose that the inside of the house was lined with absolutely healthy boards. Nevertheless, over time, they also began to turn blue and gradually become covered with ugly stains. What is it coming from?

Mold reproduces by spores, which are present absolutely everywhere - in the forest, in the fields, on the roads. It is estimated that the species living in forests and living on living trees cover approximately 40% of the surface of the trunks and branches of these trees and shrubs. They do not destroy the bark and other tissues, but make them more porous.

Spores are easily carried by wind, animals, and even shoes. If microorganisms by any of the above methods get into the house, where favorable conditions are created for them, they quickly begin to multiply. Ideal conditions for the existence of mold is high humidity (from 70%) and temperature from +5ºС to +30ºС.

Good ventilation and moderate humidity are two conditions necessary to prevent mold in rooms where water is constantly used, such as in the bathroom.

Wood is only one of the materials on which entire colonies of fungi settle. They can grow on rubble, concrete, plaster, paper, and even plastic.

Owners of seasonal country houses middle lane Russians are well aware: if you do not regularly heat a wooden house or do not follow the foundation, then dark spots will definitely appear in the corners, on the ceiling and even on furniture.

The same trouble threatens the cellars and wooden baths if they are not ventilated. Even inner lining clapboard can become infected with a fungus and become completely unusable if it does not have the opportunity to ventilate and dry out.

Lack of air circulation also favors the rapid growth of moldy colonies. This can be seen in city apartments where the bathrooms are tiled wood paneling and the ventilation is broken.

If the surface of the panels is not treated, they will soon become covered with a light white or black coating, and over time, the cladding will take on a neglected look.

Pinotex Base - deep impregnation for the top layer of wood, acts as a primer and antiseptic. It is used in combination with decorative products - Pinotex Wood Oil, Pinotex Classic, etc.

Thus, the reasons for the appearance of fungus or mold are the lack of waterproofing, high humidity.

Ways to solve the problem with your own hands

If the causes of mold appearance are not eliminated, even after its complete destruction, spores can enter the room and return the problem. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out a number of measures in order to eliminate favorable conditions for the growth of the fungus, especially the most common of them - high humidity.

First steps to take:

• if it is damp in the attic or basement, it is necessary to think over hydro and vapor barrier, check the integrity of the roof and the condition of the foundation;
• in case of violations of air circulation, establish ventilation or design a new, more efficient system, install forced air supply devices (fans);
• if conditions permit, ensure penetration sun rays(relevant for verandas, terraces, balconies) - mold does not tolerate ultraviolet irradiation;
• under renovation along with wooden paneling be sure to use a vapor barrier membrane to protect against condensate;
• check the condition of surfaces adjacent to the infected area;
• warm and dry the room thoroughly, where new mold colonies periodically appear - a heat gun is suitable for this.

To summarize, it is necessary to carry out any possible measures that reduce humidity.

Folk methods of getting rid of the fungus

When using funds that are commonly called folk, you need to remember three points:

• their application is often remembered when it is too late and more effective solutions are needed;
• it is difficult to remove overgrown foci with household solutions, and when they are destroyed, there is always a risk of new colonies appearing;
• getting rid of mold, you must simultaneously eliminate the causes that gave rise to it.

Consider available funds, which can be found at home or bought.

Treatment with bleach containing chlorine

The stores sell a solution, which is traditionally called "Whiteness". The compositions of different manufacturers may differ, but the main substance does not change - it is sodium hypochlorite, a powerful antiseptic and oxidizing agent.

At chemical enterprises, it is used to disinfect water and various surfaces, in everyday life - bleach fabrics, disinfect bathrooms.

Do not forget that any products containing chlorine are potentially hazardous to human health. Getting into the respiratory tract, they can cause vomiting, dizziness, and at increased doses and poisoning, so it is necessary to use protective equipment: a mask, gloves, a respirator

During the use of the solution, it is important to determine its concentration. Usually, "Whiteness" is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, but a more powerful antiseptic is needed to combat mold, so the proportions change to 1:1.

The whiteness is ideal for smooth surfaces such as tiles or hard plastics. Wood has a porous texture that is very difficult to process, so chlorine solution suitable only for removal external signs, stains and stains, it will not save from deep penetration of the fungus.

The concentrated composition is applied in several layers paint brush then wash off clean water. If the hearth is in an inaccessible place (in the attic), the product can not be washed off.

Pharmacy antiseptic solutions

Hydrogen peroxide, which treats wounds and scratches, does an excellent job with the fungus. As a rule, a small vial of peroxide can always be found in the first aid kit, so nothing prevents you from doing a little experiment.

Moisten a cotton pad with a few drops of the solution and wipe the wooden surface affected by mold. If the stains disappear, you can process the already clean area several more times.

As with chlorine-containing substances, one should not expect miracles from peroxide. With its help, you can clean tiles, porcelain tiles, enameled or concrete surfaces, but wood - soft material and is not amenable to quick "treatment"

If you purchased a bottle with a 3% solution, do not dilute it with water, this concentration is not considered strong. It is enough to apply peroxide to the damaged area and leave for a while, then repeat the procedure.

The second solution "from the pharmacy" is ammonia, which is part of the window cleaners and washing the printheads of inkjet printers. It also works effectively on smooth surfaces(glass, faience, plastic), and with moderate success - on wood (or plasterboard).

The procedure should be carried out according to the same rules as with "Belizna": dilute in a ratio of 1: 1, do not forget to wear gloves and a respirator.

The use of "kitchen" means

By at least, two products used to fight mold can be found in a kitchen cabinet. It's vinegar and soda.

Vinegar, like Whiteness, is not able to completely remove mold foci, but, unlike it, it is absolutely safe for humans. It is not diluted with water, but applied in large volumes to infected areas with a roller, brush or sponge.

To increase efficiency, not weak table solutions are used, but acetic essence or acid, which is characterized by a higher concentration

If the center of mold on a wooden surface resembles plaque, then there is a chance to completely get rid of it. However, do not forget about the survivability of harmful microorganisms and wipe the areas at risk every 2 weeks - until you fix the ventilation and warm the room.

Soda is also one of the most safe means. It is often used for cleaning children's things, washing dishes. However, paired with vinegar, it is able to destroy a small colony of mold. If you notice a scattering of small black dots on the walls, dilute the baking soda in vinegar and wipe the infected area.

Acetic and soda solution can be placed in a spray bottle and sprayed with a frequency of 2-3 hours on the walls (floor, ceiling, attic floors, exterior finish Houses)

Soda does not harm wood, so this option is also possible: pour a small amount of powder on a slightly damp cloth and rub it into the damaged area, and then rinse with water.

Market overview of antiseptic products

When folk remedies useless, heavy artillery enters the battle - highly effective chemical solutions, which are used both for prevention (initial treatment) and for the “treatment” of already damaged elements. Consider the popular antiseptics that can be found on the shelves of building supermarkets.

Most of the funds provided modern manufacturers, is versatile. Their composition is such that it simultaneously protects the wood from rot, mold, sunlight, bugs and even fire.

Wood for the exterior cladding of the house, as well as all decorative elements interior design, must be processed without fail, otherwise the risk of damage is very high.

Tikkurila Valti - has excellent protective properties even in difficult atmospheric conditions, contains natural oils, prevents the appearance of mold. Volume 2.7 l - 1500 rubles.

Let's name several manufacturers of antiseptics that are popular and with enviable regularity occupy the top lines of the ratings:

• Tikkurila. Known for a large range of multi-component impregnations that can protect wood in the most difficult conditions. Pay attention to the deep penetration primer Valtti Pohjuste, covering solution Vinha. Tinted impregnation-azure Valtti Color (Extra, Satin, Primer series) penetrates deep into wood fibers and does not form a film, as a result of which wooden crafts look natural.
• Senezh. The most reliable is the antiseptic for deep impregnation, ideal for the treatment of facades. It does not wash out with water and is able to protect wood in difficult weather conditions. Senezh Ecobio is designed for use inside the house, and Aquadecor was created specifically for decorative design. Lot positive feedback about protective equipment Senezh for saunas and baths.
• Belinka. Suitable for interior and exterior wooden surfaces. BELINKA BASE contains a concentrated portion of biocides, BELOCID is suitable for both prevention and treatment of contaminated surfaces. BELINKA IMPREGNANT - colorless impregnation, good where it is important to preserve the natural texture of the fibers.
• Aquatex. Perfectly protects logs, boards, wall paneling, chipboard plates from mold and wood-boring bugs. Has over 10 tinted options. The solution is used as a primer or impregnation.
• Neomid. Well-known Russian brand with a wide range antiseptics. NEOMID 440 ECO effectively protects wood products in rooms with high humidity, NEOMID 400 is used for processing interior parts, NEOMID 46 BiO protects lumber from mold damage.

The list can be continued with the names of alternative products: Dufa Wood Protect, Cytex, Pinotex, Texturol, Woodmaster. Using this or that tool, it is necessary to act strictly according to the instructions.

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Minwax Hardwood Floor Cleaner 32 Oz is a good addition to the above list of products for fighting mold.

The manufacturer's assortment includes compositions for combating mold on wooden floors, furniture, walls outside and inside the house

The composition is used as effective measure in the fight against wood diseases and in the prevention of blue and black mold building structures no risk of premature failure. Its use guarantees the preservation of the bearing capacity. Antifungal treatment of building materials and structures in contact with a humid environment and suffering from atmospheric phenomena, will relieve the destructive consequences for wood

Professional mold control

There is another effective method removal of an unpleasant "guest" - a call to specialists.

They can do things that the residents of the house will not be able to do on their own:

• will diagnose the microclimate using high-precision instruments;
• analyze the state of the affected objects;
• conduct an examination and draw up a conclusion on the nature of the occurrence of mold foci on wooden surfaces;
• select the most effective professional tools and treat areas of fungal growth with biocides;
• neutralize the air in the premises with UV installations.

If necessary, professionals will construction works: increase ventilation efficiency, reduce heat loss by laying insulation, restore normal humidity by installing waterproofing.

Arrangement of a reliable ventilation system in a wooden house will provide a normal level of humidity and conditions under which mold will not be able to develop and destroy wood

Main advantage professional processing premises is a guarantee that mold will not bother you in the near future. The most responsible companies undertake to carry out repeated measures to eliminate newly emerged outbreaks.

If you decide to call a team of specialists, take care of documenting order. The contract for the provision of services must include a warranty period and a list of procedures performed. If workers perform construction activities, then they must be guided by the requirements of GOST and SanPiN.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Informative videos will help you choose a wood mold protector and teach you how to apply it.

Roller #1. Valuable tips for choosing antiseptics:

Roller #2. Application instructions from düfa professionals:

Protection wooden planks, logs or facing elements from mold can be done with your own hands, but taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of special tools and compliance with safety standards.

If you choose the right impregnation or decorative protection, the wood surface will retain its original appearance for a long time, and well-made thermal insulation and effective ventilation will create conditions under which mold will never settle in your home.

Wood is the best natural and environmentally friendly pure material for construction own house. Yes, this is true, because in addition to its aesthetic qualities, a wooden house is warm, safe for the health of the people living in it, and does not cause allergies. In addition, it is always comfortable in a wooden house. In summer, a gentle cool reigns here, in winter it is moderately warm, the humidity level is always normal. As you can see, a tree has many properties that will easily outperform any building material. Unfortunately, just like any coin has two sides, so does a tree, with improper storage and operation, deficiencies may appear that make it unsuitable for construction.

What can happen?

Often, in some areas of the tree you can find blue, white and black shades of color. As a rule, this is nothing more than the result of the action of fungal organisms that feed on the cells of the wood, leaving behind a dark color pigment. Despite the fact that the dark pigment in the structure of the tree is not rot, such a blank will never go through the sorting process. Usually, the infected area is removed, and the remaining parts are used for their intended purpose.

Blacken boards, logs and timber, as well as other lumber at the storage stage. The reason for this may be insufficient control, when a tree stored in a warehouse is either incorrectly laid down or not completely dried at the processing stage. The danger here is that mushrooms can penetrate into the pores, cracks, notches of the tree, and be stored there for a long time in a state of suspended animation. Then, when the building material has been used for its intended purpose, the spores "wake up" and begin to destroy the structure of the tree, leading to rot and the formation of a dark shade of color. As a rule, this leads to a sharp increase in air humidity. Most often, this problem is wooden houses located near water bodies, where antiseptics are indispensable.

What fungi are the most dangerous for wood? Expert opinion

Untreated wood will always be attacked by fungi. These pests not only worsen the appearance of the material, but also negatively affect its structure, reducing its strength and destroying the entire wooden structure. Also, the fungus greatly affects the health of residents, there may be problems with the respiratory system, allergic diseases, etc. may appear. There are quite a few types of fungi, and which of them are the most dangerous for wood, every owner of a wooden log house should know.

Fungi reproduce by spores, and many wood materials become infected while still in the forest. For further development and the growth of fungi requires high humidity of the air or the material itself and also heat. As soon as these conditions are created, the formation of fungi can be detected on the wooden material. Their appearance can be indicated by the presence of blue, white, black and other shades of spots. There are many varieties of fungi, but 4 types can be considered the most common.

Varieties of fungi dangerous to wood

What to do with this trouble?

To avoid blackening of wood, it is worth taking a closer look at the choice of building material, the time of its harvesting, as well as technological process. Do not cut trees that are located near swamps and ponds. In addition, it is best to harvest wood in winter. It is during this period of time that all life processes in the tree stop. It has been scientifically proven that a tree felled in winter retains its thermal insulation qualities best. In addition, it is guaranteed to be free of microorganisms that cause blackness and early rot.

If this could not be done on time, then you should turn to such unique means - wood bleaching agents "BioShield-1" and "BioShield-2", which will help you fight the blackening of boards, lumber, logs and various beams.

A photo: BioShield-2 wood bleach can combat strong blackening (blackness) on lumber wood.

A photo: BioShield-1 wood bleach can fight less severe blackening (blackness) on lumber, logs and timber.

• Blue mushrooms. The tree under their influence acquires a gray-blue hue. These fungi are able to destroy the existing layer of varnish or paint, thereby opening up moisture to wooden material. The fungus itself will not harm the strength characteristics of the material. But its appearance suggests that wood needs protection.
• White and black mold. These fungi can appear not only on wood, but also on other materials (stone, tile, concrete, etc.). They act destructively on the very structure of the building, and have Negative influence on people's health. Their spores in the air settle on the skin of a person, penetrate into his respiratory tract, all this leads to allergic diseases and serious problems with the respiratory system (laryngitis, bronchitis, asthma, etc. can form).
• Rot fungus. It can be dry or wet. Wet fungus forms on damp wood material. It is often found on wood near the ground, water pipes or on the floor. Dry rot fungus also forms in damp places. This fungus appears in the form of reddish spores. They penetrate deep into the wood structure and begin to destroy it.
• White, house mushroom. It grows rapidly and completely destroys a wooden building in a short time. The spores of this fungus are spread by the wind. This fungus is "tenacious" and is not easy to eliminate on already infected wood. House fungi themselves are able to produce moisture for their own development and attack already dry wood. That is why they used to burn houses infected with this type of fungus, so as not to infect other healthy structures. Home mushroom is considered the most dangerous species for wood material. It is found mainly on conifers wood, but can also develop on other materials containing cellulose. Only a durable oak is not capable of influencing the house fungus.

All types of fungus are dangerous for wood and for human health. To prevent them from appearing in a wooden building, it is necessary to properly organize heating, waterproofing walls and foundations, and also ensure good ventilation of the room. And it is also necessary for prevention to carry out the treatment of wooden material with antiseptic impregnations.

Thematic Video: