Do-it-yourself dressers from a floorboard. DIY wooden chest of drawers

Many modern craftsmen are trying to create a chest of drawers with their own hands, because this is an incredibly convenient and functional piece of cabinet furniture, in which you can store any things, thus saving living space. This practical product will easily find its place in the interior of any room. To date, drawers are the most convenient storage system. In this regard, the question - how to make a chest of drawers yourself, which is also popularly called "low cabinet with drawers" - is very relevant.

Due to the high cost of industrial products or their low quality, not everyone can afford to buy this piece of furniture, but making it with their own hands from improvised means, including from a furniture board, is within the power of any person who has the slightest skills in this matter ... The process of creating a dresser with your own hands begins with choosing a place and developing a project. Before proceeding with the design, it is necessary to decide on the place of its installation.

It is necessary to carry out calculations, determine the size of the countertop and start assembling the boxes only after the entire room has been carefully examined. It is necessary to study how the skirting boards are arranged, make sure that there are or are not switches and sockets on the wall. Nothing should interfere with the use of furniture. An equally important point is to determine the size of the product. The optimal height of the chest of drawers is considered to be 80-85 cm, and the width is 80-130 cm. The standard depth of the chest of drawers is 30-35 cm. It is desirable that the dimensions of the product are suitable - the large dimensions of the chest of drawers can disrupt the harmony of the interior.

Material selection

The most demanded material for the manufacture of this piece of furniture is considered to be any sheet material based on wood. Their popularity is due to their low cost and ease of processing. If you have little experience in creating furniture from wood with your own hands (solid pine, birch, oak), this material is perfect. Such a cabinet made of chipboard, like a chest of drawers made of plywood, is a very reliable and durable invention that will delight you with its practicality, functionality and attractive design for many years.


Doing something with your own hands is always interesting, even more so - it is also useful. Do-it-yourself chest of drawers made of wood will allow you to acquire not only basic knowledge about carpentry, to take your hands when there is nothing to do, but also will give you the opportunity to find that individual and not unlike anything else in the interior, in which you can hide, or put on display all the most important and intimate.

We build a frame

We will connect the frame of our chest of drawers according to the same principle as the TV stand. We simply cut the chipboard according to the dimensions previously measured and transferred to the chipboard plates. Our frame will consist of two long horizontal stripes (top and bottom), two side surfaces, two partitions in the middle and three more short legs that were placed in the middle of each section of the chest of drawers.

Shelves

We fasten two shelves in the middle, and one in the side sections. Each connecting element is first processed with glue, and only then we fasten it.

Top cover

We take four boards, carefully clean them with emery paper, or a grinder and, making 6 side holes on each board, screw them to the top panel made of chipboard. We close all the holes with wooden plugs. We do the final grinding.

Facade decor

We cover the top and bottom of the chest of drawers with two boards 15 cm wide, and two more boards with the same width cover the chipboard boards on the sides. we need boards of 5 cm wide in order to cover the front ends of the shelves, as well as vertical partitions.

Making sliding doors

We connect four boards 15 cm wide using the same pocket holes. We close each hole with plugs, and grind the doors. We need two similar instances.

We paint the chest of drawers

We paint part of the facade with white paint. We cover all other surfaces with a light stain. We are waiting for the paint and stain to dry, we clean everything again with sandpaper and apply a second layer.

Painting metal

With black paint from a spray can we process every metal part that is needed in order to form a sliding structure.

Bottom corner

We screw a corner onto the lower support board. It will serve as a kind of barrier that will prevent the doors from walking from side to side.

Upper support

With the help of a long bolt and a metal tube, we fasten the upper support on which the door wheels will walk. The distance from the side from the edge to the beginning of the support is 4 cm, from the top from the edge of the boards to the support - 4.5 cm.

We insert the doors

To the doors, stepping back 5 cm from the edge, fasten the metal plate in two places with bolts, and also fasten the wheel in the upper part of this plate, which will slide along the support.

Ready chest of drawers

As you can see, we have two doors, and three compartments. Also, one of the sections can be open at any time and put on public display. But in general, we have got a rather interesting and beautiful chest of drawers that you can make with your own hands. Even in the bedrooms: Decor, Siena / Arena, Torriani you can find a place for it and it will not stand out from the general rich and sophisticated style.

Interesting video.

People even manage to make a chest of drawers out of cardboard.

Here is a woman ... She goes home, strives for the family hearth, counting on a quiet evening and simple joys in life. But the first thing she sees upon entering the apartment is a sock dropped in the middle of the corridor. Perhaps this sock is even clean, it doesn't matter - all female nature is already seething and threatens the civilian population with cataclysms. Small things are constantly falling out of the closet, and the husband does not even itch! And the spouse, having received a portion of priority tasks, thinks: How to make a chest of drawers with your own hands?

Today we will show you how to make such a chest of drawers.

Everything is not so scary as it seems at first glance. You will not be able to cut a sheet of chipboard, size 2440x1830x16 at home, no matter how hard you try, but specially trained professionals can help with this problem. We give the details below, and professionals are found right in building supermarkets, where you buy chipboard.

Other specialists working in furniture fittings stores will help you translate incomprehensible terms if you come across such in this manual.

Detail of the chest of drawers

As you can see, there are legs for this particular chest of drawers, so the dimensions are given for a structure with an overhead bottom.

The main parameters taken into account:

  • Chipboard thickness = 16 mm,
  • melamine edge, with an adhesive layer, 0.5 mm thick.

All dimensions are in millimeters.

  • 800x500 - top of the chest of drawers.
  • 816x475 - 2 pcs., Chest of drawers.
  • 800x475 - bottom.
  • 797x205 - drawer facades.
  • 768x80 - top tie bars.
  • 160x450 - 8 pcs., Drawer sides.
  • 160x709 - 8 pcs., Front and rear walls of boxes.
  • 418x80 - 4 pcs., Drawer tie bars.

It is reasonable to make the back wall of the chest of drawers and the bottom of the drawers from fiberboard (otherwise - hardboard). Here are the dimensions of the fiberboard parts required here:

  • 828x795 - the back wall of the chest of drawers.
  • 738х447 - the bottom of the boxes, 4 pcs.

While the necessary parts are being cut out for you, it makes sense to take care of the availability of a tool and the purchase of accessories. The wooden city of Kizhi was built without a single nail, having only saws and axes, but such craftsmen today cannot be found. Therefore, we go to a specialized store and buy ...

We buy the following accessories

Thinking about how to make a chest of drawers with our own hands, we settled on the type of guides that do not allow deviation from the template markup - for accuracy and simplicity of description.

  • Drawer guides "roller" - 4 sets, 450 mm long. Remember that the kit includes both left and right runners. They are NOT interchangeable.
  • Confirmates 5x70 (just tell the seller), pack of 100 pieces.
  • Self-tapping screws 4x16 - pack of 100 pcs.
  • Self-tapping screws 4x30 - - "-.
  • Melamine edging with adhesive backing. Along the perimeter of parts, with a margin.
  • Decorative legs. They are in different designs, the choice is yours, 6 pieces.
  • Drawer handles, 8 pieces. There are four of them in the attached figure, but, as practice shows, for ease of use it is better to put two pieces per box.

Now that the necessary parts have already been purchased, we check the availability of the tool. Making a chest of drawers is a simple process, but one ax, as mentioned above, cannot be done here.

Finding such tools

  • Drill / screwdriver, with a self-clamping chuck for a minimum diameter of 10 mm.
  • Drills 5 and 8 mm for wood.
  • A set of bits, with the obligatory presence of a hexagonal bit for confirmations.
  • A right angle embodied in a building tool with a ruler.
  • Roulette.
  • Pencil.
  • Iron heated at 3/4 power.
  • Dull knife, fine sandpaper, dry cloth.
  • Vacuum cleaner assistant.

If the decision to make a dresser with your own hands is not the last thing in your life, we recommend buying a quality tool. There are many dull knives and assistants, and a broken drill bit or a torn bit can seriously affect your enthusiasm and the quality of your furniture.

Preparing to assemble the chest of drawers

Details must be pasted over. To do this, attach the edge to the end of the part with the base down and iron it with a hot iron. Rub the top with a dry cloth for a few times to ensure a secure adhesion. Remove the protruding edges of the edge with a blunt knife and sand the edges with sandpaper. Be careful with your laminate - try not to scratch it.

Holes for confirmations are drilled:

  • In a plane - with a drill 8 mm through and through,
  • in the end - with a 5 mm drill to a depth of 60 mm.

Openings for confirmations

Before assembling the curbstone, the "body" of the chest of drawers, it is necessary to mark and attach the guides for the drawers. The picture shows the dimensions, but if you are thinking of changing the height of your chest of drawers or the number of drawers in it, it is useful to find out a simple formula for calculating their layout. This is not difficult:

(Front height) + (approx. 3 mm allowance for each drawer) - 25 mm = center line of the runner fasteners, counting from the top.

Marking for guides

If the facades are of different heights, you need to add the dimensions, not forgetting to add an allowance for each facade.

Bottom guides are always marked at the bottom, as shown in the picture.

Assembling the chest of drawers

The chest of drawers is assembled as shown in the figure. The top cover is fastened with 4x30 self-tapping screws from below, through the holes in the tie bars. We measure the right angle in the resulting box and fasten or punch the back wall from hardboard.

Assembling the chest of drawers

Note: Strict geometry is important everywhere and always, otherwise your furniture will be disabled from birth. Right angles "by eye" are unacceptable in principle.

We collect the boxes, taking into account that the hardboard of the bottom in no case should protrude in the front side - we will attach the facades there in the same way as the top cover of the chest of drawers itself: with 4x30 screws from the inside, through the front wall of the box.

Assembling dresser drawers

We attach the legs as we like best - you don't need to maintain any strict dimensions if you are not a pedant. Handles, respectively, too - the main thing is to maintain symmetry.

In fact, we have already answered the question "How to make a chest of drawers yourself?", But there are some nuances:

  • The first of them: We used roller guides as an example in order to clearly define the layout for drawers on the sides of the chest of drawers. In fact, there are now "full roll-out" guides on sale that do not need such strict instructions. They have no restrictions on the height of the fastening, but it will not be easy for a novice master to fix such runners due to purely technical difficulties that can be solved only in practice.
  • Second: Be very attentive to the so-called "little things". An insignificant, at first glance, blot will lead to the fact that the drawers of the chest of drawers will go "anyhow". An error in a millimeter in terms of the totality of errors will result in ugliness.
  • Third: When glueing and drilling, do not hesitate to "practice in the backyard", that is, on scraps - save money.

Basically everything ... You can put your socks in the boxes, good luck.

A chest of drawers is a very comfortable and functional piece of furniture. Its main advantage is that it allows you to store many different things without taking up a lot of space. The disadvantage is the high cost of factory-made products. Not everyone has the opportunity to allocate money for the purchase of such furniture. But everyone can figure out how to do it. This piece of furniture can have different shapes and sizes, but the manufacturing technology remains the same in any case.

Preparing to create

Making a chest of drawers with your own hands begins with its design. Before making a calculation, deciding on a suitable countertop size, assembling drawers, etc., you must choose a place to install the chest of drawers. Take a close look at your room. Examine the skirting board, see if there are switches, sockets and other things on the wall that you need to take into account when choosing the size of the chest of drawers. It is important that it does not cover anything and that nothing interferes with its use.

Figure 1. A variant of a chest of drawers.

Next, you need to choose the size of the chest of drawers. The most convenient is a chest of drawers with a width of 80-130 cm and a height of 80-85 cm. The best chest of drawers is one that would be convenient for you to use. If you can't figure out what your dresser should look like, visit your nearest furniture store. Surely you will like something, and in the future you will be able to focus on the model you like.

Most often, home craftsmen make dressers from wood. This material is relatively cheap and easy to process. If you have never had to make furniture with your own hands before, opt for a wooden chest of drawers.

Next, you will need to create a project for your homemade dresser. To do this, you can use special computer programs or draw it on paper. The main task at this stage is to determine what parts the chest of drawers will consist of. Next, you will need to create a drawing. You can use the diagram in fig. one.

The drawing must be done. If you can still do without a project, then you will not be able to work without a drawing.

In the drawing, you need to depict at least a side view or top and front.

It will be better if you can depict it in section as well. Be sure to include the dimensions of each part. This will allow you to see how all the details will stand, where padding is needed, etc. When drawing up a drawing, it is recommended to focus on the following dimensions:

  • thickness of wood or slabs - 1.6 cm;
  • the distance between the extreme parts of the drawers and the back wall of the homemade chest of drawers is at least 1 cm;
  • a gap of 3 mm must be added to the dimensions of the inset facades, i.e. 1 mm for each individual end.

Back to the table of contents

Tools and materials

Figure 2. Sidewall markings.

This page contains a small selection of drawings with dimensions that you can use for things.

Why do you need a chest of drawers at all?

To free up as much space in the room as possible, to make it spacious and neat, things in the apartment should always be in their places. At the same time, I want to have quick and convenient access to these things.

With the mouse wheel, you can zoom in or out of the object. Pressing ESC to deactivate the Line tool.

Important clearances

  • The gap between the facades is a minimum of 3 mm (that is, when you measure the size of the facade (both in length and in width), immediately subtract 3 mm from the dimensions (which will be obtained in the drawing) per gap, and 1 mm from each end to the edge (this is if you are going to glue the edge of 1 mm), and write the resulting length and width into the detailing.
  • Edge gap, 1mm = 1mm thick (2mm = 2mm, etc.)
  • Thickness - 13 mm (there is an indent in the drawings)
  • Fiberboard (back wall and bottom of the drawers) - 1 mm less on each side

The material structure is always located along the length of the part.

We also immediately write down what fasteners and accessories we need.

How to assemble a chest of drawers based on a drawing

To do this, you need to know the attachment points for parts and accessories (what, at what distance and from what you need to attach). If you are near the computer, then the distances can be immediately viewed in the drawing, using the same "Line" tool in the Compass program.

A dresser in the house is a practical and multifunctional piece of furniture. Currently, due to the availability of a variety of materials on sale, pieces of furniture can not only be purchased ready-made, but also made independently. This will significantly save money, because do-it-yourself furniture will cost several times cheaper than purchased in a store. And also in this way you can design products that fully suit your preferences and the general interior of the room.

A chest of drawers is a piece of furniture that can be placed in any room in your home. The predecessor of the chest of drawers was an ordinary chest, but it had some inconvenience of use. This became the reason for the transformation of the chest, the formation of some new elements in it, as a result of which such a piece of furniture as a chest of drawers appeared. It was a small cabinet with two doors and drawers. Over time, the design was improved and chests of drawers with a mirror or chest of drawers began to appear. Today it is a versatile roomy piece of furniture used to store a wide variety of items.

It looks organically both in the setting of a living room, as well as in a nursery, bedroom or hallway. At the same time, the chest of drawers is a functional place for storing things, where you can conveniently place perfumes, books, shoe care products, cosmetics, clothes and other necessary things. This design will provide order wherever you put it.

Materials for making chests of drawers are varied:

  • tree;
  • different metals;
  • a rock;
  • glass.

Development of the project and drawing

  1. Designing a future piece of furniture should begin with determining the place where it will be placed.
  2. It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the required space, and besides this, take into account the placement of sockets, switches, baseboards. The chest of drawers must be placed so that these items do not interfere with its functioning.
  3. After that, you should determine the size of the chest of drawers itself. The optimal dimensions of the structure are 800 mm in height and 800-1200 mm in width.
  4. At the design stage, materials should be selected. In this case, you need to take into account the following points:
  • a product made of natural wood will have a significant weight;
  • when using chipboard and MDF materials, the chest of drawers will turn out to be noticeably lighter. In addition, making furniture from these materials will be much cheaper.
  1. The assembly of the chest of drawers will be carried out according to the drawing scheme. You can draw a drawing using a ruler and a pencil, or you can do it using special programs in electronic form. These are such programs as AutoCAD and Compass 3D. Electronic drawing makes it possible to determine the size of each individual element. The drawing should show the front fragment, the side and the top of the chest of drawers.
  2. At the next stage of assembling the chest of drawers, according to the instructions, you need to determine the size of the necessary parts and make a list of them. It should be borne in mind that when determining the size of the fronts of the boxes, it is necessary to provide for gaps for the indents between them.

For example, if, according to the drawing, the size of the facade of the future chest of drawers is 1100 mm x 167 mm, you should leave a gap of 3 mm in height. In addition, you need to remember that the edge will add thickness.

After drawing up the assembly diagram of the chest of drawers and a list of all the necessary elements, in accordance with this, we prepare the parts. You can ask for help from a company that specializes in sawing chipboard and making facades from MDF. Such services are offered by all particle board companies.

If you have the skills to work with a circular saw, parts can be made yourself. To do this, in addition to the saw, you will also need a special disk, which is necessary for cutting the edges of the plates of two planes.

Mounting the chest of drawers

If you have all the parts, you can start assembling them into a finished product.

For work you need to prepare:

  • screws;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • nails with a large head.

The dresser assembly process takes place in the following sequence:

  1. First of all, we assemble the body of the product. Attach the back wall with nails.
  2. If it is not possible to build a wall from one piece of material, it is possible to use two elements connected by means of polymer joining parts.
  3. A furniture screw is used to fasten the parts together. In the edge of one fragment, in the place that is equally distant from the two edges, you need to drill a blind hole 4 mm in diameter.
  4. Then we take the part that we will attach and make a through hole 7 mm in diameter in it.
  5. Screws placed in the material from the front of the structural elements should be covered with plastic covers.
  6. Then we fix the top cover using steel corners, for which wood screws are used.
  7. On this the body is assembled, you need to proceed to the assembly of boxes.


Assembling boxes

As a rule, assembling boxes is a more laborious process than assembling the case. The box is made up of the following elements:

  • facade;
  • side walls.

Since there are several such components in the design at once, before assembling the chest of drawers, it is important not to get confused in the constituent elements and number them. Then do the following:

  1. To install the bottom, you need to make cuts in the lower part of the walls, the depth of which will be 10 mm, and the width will be equal to the thickness of the bottom.
  2. To attach the front fragment, you will need paired self-tapping screws with an eccentric. As a rule, such self-tapping screws are supplied with swivel nuts with a slot along the side wall.
  3. To connect the parts in one of them, we install a screw and fix it by turning the nut.
  4. The bottom screw fragment will be installed into the panel from the inside. And the upper part, which has a head, is inserted into a rotatable nut.
  5. To make the movement of the boxes easy, it is necessary to install roller strips on the inside of the box walls. Finding such details will not be difficult at any retail outlet that sells furniture fittings.
  6. For fastening, glue must be applied to the slats, and then set to the bottom of the boxes.
  7. After the glue has dried, the boxes should be installed in the product frame.
  8. At the final stage of the assembly process, we install the handles. To do this, we fasten them with screws from the inner sides of the drawers.
  9. At the end of the assembly, you need to check if the boxes interfere with the use of each other.
  10. If the operation is not smooth enough, the planks need to be sharpened with sandpaper or a planer.


The original chest of drawers from old suitcases

The manufacture of such a chest of drawers begins with the implementation of the frame. Its size is determined by the number of suitcases to be used. The material for the frame can be plastic, boards, metal, chipboard or plywood. Finishing can be done with varnish or paint, the colors of which are suitable for the interior of the room. The design features of such a chest of drawers are as follows:

  1. To ensure easy pull-out of suitcases, which function as drawers, walker bars must be installed inside the frame.
  2. It is recommended to cover them with varnish - this will make the process of pulling out even easier.
  3. For the functioning of one drawer, two strips are required. Before installing, you need to remove the covers from the suitcases. Their bottom should be reinforced with plywood, which must first be cut out according to the dimensions of the walls and bottom of the suitcases.
  4. You can make such a chest of drawers even more spectacular by decorating it using the decoupage technique.
  5. You can also paste over the product with a cloth or self-adhesive film.


Chest of drawers in the interior of the premises

In the bedroom, a chest of drawers is usually used to store clothes and bedding. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare a large chest of drawers for this room. For the children's room, designs with changing tables are used. Also in the child's room, you can choose a chest of drawers with various fairy tales. This piece of furniture will be useful in a kitchen or dining room. It is quite convenient to store dishes in it, as well as to use it as a sideboard.

In the bathroom, this piece of furniture is well suited for storing bath accessories. And if you choose it in accordance with the color scheme of the plumbing, it will help create an exquisite interior. However, one must take into account the fact that for a given room a chest of drawers should be made from moisture-resistant materials, for example, from MDF or colored plastic. In the chest of drawers, you can store not only clothes, bed linen or dishes, but also jewelry. A small chest of drawers with a mirror is suitable for this purpose.

Conclusion

A chest of drawers is a spacious, practical and versatile piece of furniture. It will find its application in the premises of any purpose. The uncomplicated design, consisting of available materials, allows you to assemble it yourself. The assembly process involves several stages. However, before assembling a chest of drawers, you must read the instructions in order to design a functional and aesthetic piece of furniture.

Instructions on how to assemble a chest of drawers in the video can be seen below:

It would seem - what is difficult in assembling ordinary cabinet furniture? But for an inexperienced person, this process can sometimes seem like a super task. Especially, as is often the case, if there is no assembly instruction.

Let's try to use the example of an ordinary chest of drawers to tell about the basic rules for assembling furniture.

So, they brought you packed boxes. It doesn't make much sense to check the availability of all the components (you won't be counting all the screws and screws), the only thing is, if there are a lot of boxes, then you need to compare their number with the number in the invoice.

Does it match?

So everything is all right. In our case, there are only two boxes. We unpack and first of all we find the instruction.

If it is not there, we are looking for at least a picture of the appearance of our piece of furniture. It can be pasted on the outside of the box. If this is not the case, then we can only hope for our own head and these recommendations, or take a typical scheme as a guide:

The step-by-step video at the end of the article will also be useful.

First, consider the option with instructions. Depending on the responsibility of the furniture manufacturer, the instructions can be either detailed or short (without designations of parts), but in both cases it contains an image of the appearance of the product.

The assembly must begin with the largest structure, in the case of a wall, this will be a cabinet with shelves for books.

Let me remind you that we have a chest of drawers :)

We find among all the details the side walls of the chest of drawers (cabinet). The instructions contain their size, so we take a tape measure and measure the length and width (believe me, this will be much faster than trying on every detail and looking for a suitable one).

If there is no instruction, we look for parts of the same size and compare the holes on the inside. They must be symmetrical (except for the hinge holes).

So, the side parts have been found, we are looking for the cross members.

Since we know the external dimensions (the width and length are negotiated before the purchase), we are looking for shelves and covers of a suitable width in accordance with the picture, paying attention to the coincidence of the holes in the sides of the cabinet and the ends of the horizontal elements found.

So, all parts of one structure (cabinet) have been found, we proceed to assembly.


If there are drawers, the first step is to screw the guides to the inner surface of the chest of drawers (cabinet).

They come in different designs, but they are similar in one thing - before installation, they need to be divided into two parts (one part is screwed to the cabinet, the second to the drawer). On the inner side surface of the pedestal, the mounting points of the guides are already indicated.

I advise you to deepen them a little with an awl, so it will be easier to wrap the screws. The holes in the guides for fastening with screws are in the shape of an ellipse, this is necessary to adjust the position of the boxes. The structure is fastened with two screws.


When all the guides are screwed on, you can proceed directly to the assembly itself (work is carried out with a horizontally located product).

To fasten the elements of the chest of drawers (cabinet), various fasteners are used, such as screws, confirmations, dowels and, sometimes, minifixes, consisting of a pin and an eccentric.

Confirmation ("Euro screw", "Eurik", "screw tie", "Euro screw" is a one-piece tie for joining parts made of wood materials (see fig)


The shelves, which act as stiffeners, are fastened using confirmations and dowels, all the rest are installed in the finished structure on shelf supports.

So, we look for holes for dowels on the side elements, they are not through.


Pour PVA glue there, insert the dowel and drive it tightly with a hammer (be careful, if you overdo it, you can damage the surface of the sidewall).

We do this operation with all dowel joints on both side elements.


It takes some skill. To begin with, you can put stops under the falling elements.

When connecting, you can use a rubber hammer, tapping it at the points of attachment of the dowels.

When all the parts have "sat down" in their place, you can screw in the confirmations without screwing them all the way.

It's the turn of the top cover. It is also attached with dowels, and minifixes are added for greater reliability. A pin is screwed into the cover itself, and an eccentric is inserted into the corresponding hole in the sidewall.


Now you need to install the cover in its place and turn the eccentric so that it tightens the pin, thereby pressing the cover to the structure.

We wrap the confirmations all the way.

Now you need to nail the back wall of fiberboard. Before that, you need to check the equality of the diagonals by comparing them with a simple twine or tape measure.

Well, the main work is completed, it remains to collect the boxes.

There are also minifixes in the design of my boxes, but, most often, boxes are assembled using dowels and confirmations. The fasteners are already familiar, so we will not dwell on them in detail.

When the boxes are assembled, you need to attach the second part of the guides to them (be careful not to attach them backwards). There are also marks for fastening on the surface of the sidewalls of the boxes. All operations are the same.

We put the boxes in place.


Well, and the final stage - we remove the film (if any) from all facades, close the caps of the confirmations with plugs, install the handles.

Yes, as a rule, the holes for attaching the handles are not always fully drilled, so it is advisable to complete these holes before assembling the boxes.


We install our chest of drawers (wardrobe) in the designated place and enjoy the work done.

The chest of drawers is not a defining, but significant element of the interior. In the most diverse styles of its design, from the bourgeois-haberdashery rococo and impressively solid classics to fusion and high-tech, it is the chest of drawers that completes the composition and gives the appearance of the room completeness, see fig. In a way, a chest of drawers in furniture is the same as dots over i and dashes in t.


Why isn't the chest of drawers a wardrobe?

Making a dresser with your own hands is both easier and more difficult than a wardrobe. Easier because there are only drawers in the chest of drawers; possibly a shelf. It is more difficult because its filling is kept in a less rigid box-case without vertical partitions and tightly fixed shelves, and it is used more intensively and is subjected to greater operational loads than in a cabinet. Therefore, the design of a chest of drawers made of traditional materials differs significantly from that of a wardrobe.

Firstly, the chest of drawers made of wood is installed not on the base, but on the so-called. lower apron - a rigid support frame with legs, low or high. Secondly, each drawer rests on its own apron, tightly fastened to the sides of the case, this gives the product the necessary rigidity.

Wooden classic

For example, in Fig. shows the drawings of a classic wooden chest of drawers "for eternity". When using modern metal guides, 1 drawer apron is sufficient for 350-450 mm of body height, i.e. box aprons turn into stiffening belts installed after 2-3 rows of boxes. In this case, the aprons of the boxes marked in red can be omitted, but 2 of them still remain.


Varieties

The classic chest of drawers has spawned several varieties, from left to right in Fig. This is, firstly, a bureau, which will be useful not only to the bureaucrat, who is enthusiastically indulging in his vice and in the bosom of the family. The bureau, unlike the secretaire, does not give the psychological effect of something hanging over the head, so it is more convenient to do creative and delicate painstaking work behind it: needlework, soldering, tinkering with precise mechanics. Although, of course, you can put the things you need on the shelves of the secretaire, so the choice in this case depends on the taste and character traits.

The layout of the bureau is shown in Fig. The mechanism for opening the lid and turning it into a tabletop, as we see, is simple and quite accessible for self-production. The missing dimensions according to the available free space can be calculated using the instructions below.


A chest of drawers with a chest is convenient in that it does not take away unnecessary usable space and you do not need to bend over to it. And if the lid of the chest is flat, then the functionality of the chest of drawers is preserved. Structurally, a chest of drawers is no more complicated than usual: the top shelf of the chest of drawers also serves as the bottom of the chest.

A file cabinet differs from a linen chest of drawers by the presence of many small drawers; we will consider the features of their design below. It will be useful again, not only to lawsuits for dossiers or bookworms as a repository of a personal library catalog. A woman, especially with her daughters, may not be enough for underwear and cute little things. A chest of drawers-file cabinet will have to be in place for an artisan working with the same precise mechanics or a radio amateur.

Finally, the trend of our days is a wooden chest of drawers with a fireplace. Modern fireplace inserts have reached a high degree of fire safety and there are models that are quite suitable for embedding in wooden furniture, as long as there is a smoke channel separate from ventilation in the house. The aesthetic effect of a chest of drawers with a fireplace can not be described, and so everything is visible.

For the little ones ...

A separate type of chest of drawers is designed for swaddling babies. The changing chest of drawers is made of environmentally friendly and non-allergenic materials: solid deciduous wood (birch is the most reliable of all tested for harmlessness) or chipboard of zero (highest, extra) grade with the emission class of phenol-containing compounds E0. The hinged lid turns it into a changing table; its mechanism is made as simple and reliable as possible: mothers and babies have no time to think about where to push, pick up and pull. The lid of the chest of drawers and the table are equipped with bumpers so that the baby does not fall off and the diapers-undershirts-diapers do not catch on anything. The device, assembly procedure and parts list of the popular 600/4 changing chest of drawers are shown in Fig. The main material is grade 0 laminated chipboard, 16 mm thick.


... and the smallest

A chest of drawers does not have to be floor furniture, it can be a table top, for decorations and small things. In this case, it makes sense, without planting woodwork in the house, to make it out of cardboard. For a large chest of drawers, as well as for any furniture with movable modules, cardboard technologies are not applicable, because reinforced in any way cardboard still does not withstand wear from friction. But in small dressers, the ratio of the supporting area of ​​the loaded box to its weight turns out to be many times greater, and the cardboard already holds when they crawl over it. And if it does wear off, it doesn't matter: the product is practically free and easily repeatable. How to make an elegant table chest of drawers for jewelry yourself, see.

Video: making a mini-chest of drawers for jewelry

Video: decorating a mini-chest of drawers

A mini-chest of drawers does not have to be vertical drawer fronts. In many cases, it is more convenient for them to open upward, as it is less likely that an earring, needle or button will immediately fall out and be lost. Therefore, the functions of a desk chest of drawers are often assigned to a folding box, see fig.:


But what if a chest of drawers for household goods is placed in a pantry or other utility room? There, beauty is not required of him, only simplicity, cheapness, capacity and more or less decent durability. Then you can assemble a chest of drawers from boxes, as, for example, shown in the video:

Video: mini chest of drawers

If there is no required number of empty boxes, but there is unnecessary packing cardboard, then the boxes are made from it according to any of the patterns of container boxes, see fig. For a chest of drawers, poses are most suitable. (b), (c) and (e): a hinged lid with a rim will keep crumbling little things and make it easier to sort through them.


When the little one grows up

At first glance, it seems that a cardboard chest of drawers "hastily" will go into the nursery, but this is not so. Show a child who always listens, understands and fulfills the instructions and exhortations of adults! For normal development, children absolutely need to explore their surroundings, and the easiest and fastest way to explore is to break. Paradoxically, without this, the child will never know the prices of things and will not learn how to handle them, no matter how obedient quiet he may be.

A dresser for a nursery should be especially durable and reliable, like any children's furniture. A changing chest of drawers will do as a work and utility corner in the children's room, when the child gets up on his legs and starts doing something with his hands. But what about his own needs, small but necessary?

A children's chest of drawers for little things can be made with plywood. Children of pragmatism, the subtleties of aesthetics, they have yet to study, whom nature has endowed with taste. Therefore, you should not be especially tricky with the decor: paint the blanks in 2 colors, and it's already good, on the left in Fig. Just do not stain, it is better to use a water-based tinted acrylic varnish, it is safe, even if they gnaw.


A dresser for toys already requires sufficient capacity: your favorite bear, elephant or Pep's dog can be as tall as the owner. And it is desirable that the chest of drawers, as it were, teaches children not to throw toys away, this is where neatness and commitment begins. A good solution in this sense is a dresser for toys in the form of a ladder to the loft bed. Take a closer look at the children: do they trample on toys, even if they are designated as villains in their world? And later, a ladder chest of drawers can serve as a wall wardrobe if you attach shelves to the steps.

If without a tree?

Solid wood for furniture is not a cheap material. It is possible to rally furniture boards from boards with your own hands, but you need a production area outside living quarters and you need to make fixtures. And besides, preparation of sawn timber for assembly into furniture boards takes a lot of time.

It is tempting to replace the MDF array or laminate flooring, but, alas, the very structure of these materials does not allow making furniture connections of parts made of them reliable. They will only go to the facades of the boxes, see below.

Drywall is absolutely not suitable for a chest of drawers: it is not a structural material, and the voids of the frame will take up so much space that there will be nowhere to put things. OSB after the expiration of phenol and layer strength is not suitable for furniture. So, plywood and laminated chipboard (chipboard) remain.

Plywood chest of drawers

Plywood is a material quite suitable for furniture. A plywood chest of drawers after staining with a stain, painting or decoupling can decorate any interior, see fig. If blanks made of ordinary construction plywood were thoroughly impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion on both sides, then in a heated room a plywood chest of drawers is practically eternal.


However, plywood is prone to delamination. Therefore, in plywood furniture, constantly loaded joints in the edge (at the end) should be avoided in every possible way. Dowels, fugues and dowels generally disappear, and the metal end fasteners should only keep the assembly from falling apart; the operational loads must be borne by the structural material.

An example of the construction of a plywood chest of drawers that meets the specified requirements is shown in Fig. The thickness of the plywood was chosen to be 18 mm, so that, if necessary / possible, it was possible to partially use the solid oak, beech or walnut. The design of the lower apron is the same as that of a classic wooden chest of drawers, only its boards are also cut from plywood, and corner bars are knocked out of several of its strips. Due to the higher elasticity and rigidity of plywood, it became possible to do without box aprons.



Chipboard chests of drawers

Chipboard material is even more durable and rigid than plywood, so the design of a chest of drawers made of it is greatly simplified: what the frame of a chest of drawers made of chipboard looks like is shown in Fig. on right. If the product will be painted with a primer, then you can use not laminated, but much cheaper polished chipboard. But in any case, its phenol class should be E0 for children's furniture and not higher than E1 (first grade) for an adult. For furniture in utility and industrial premises, classes E2 with natural ventilation and E3 with supply and exhaust ventilation are acceptable.

Note: the back wall of the frame in Fig. made of fiberboard with a thickness of 4 mm. How it is installed is shown in the sidebar.

About designing dressers

The above examples of chest designs are almost all with dimensions. But, if you want to repeat any of them or something else, you most likely need to adjust the dimensions of the product to your room, because the chest of drawers is designed according to the leftover principle as a piece of furniture that is not of primary importance. In the chest of drawers, in turn, most of the useful volume falls on the drawers, therefore, the chest of drawers is designed "from the drawer" in stages in the following order:

  1. Dimensions in the room determine the overall dimensions of the chest of drawers;
  2. According to the intended content, the number, size and location of the boxes are determined; in case of self-production, this stage is exclusively individual;
  3. The design (construction) of the boxes is selected;
  4. Suitable guides are selected, see below;
  5. Technological clearances in the housing are calculated;
  6. The overall dimensions of the chest of drawers are determined, taking into account the removal of the lower apron and the table top (for chests of drawers made of chipboard it is not necessary);
  7. If the product does not fit into the specified dimensions, rearrangement and recalculation are performed starting from item 2.

Boxes

The design of boxes begins with the choice of the type of facades: internal, on the left in the figure, or external, on the right in the same place. Internal ones are more elegant, but require more precision in work, because the technical gap is 3 mm + 2 mm per edge, if the chest of drawers is made of chipboard, it must be provided along the contour of the facade, and its unequal size immediately catches the eye. If the box is on self-made wooden guides, and the protrusion of its facade is a stopper when sliding in, then in any case it is better to make the facades external, because internal ones in such a design come off rather quickly from the bottom.


Separately, one should dwell on boxes of non-standard proportions. For example, small, long and narrow in the file cabinet. If they are put on modern full-stem guides, then up to a third or even up to half of the useful volume will be wasted for them in the technical gaps. Therefore, the guides for the filing cabinet drawers will have to be done in the old fashioned way, pos. And in fig. below. The sacrifice of full extension in this case is not fatal, because the boxes are small and light.

Note: There are modifications of the full extension guides for filing cabinets described below, but they cost 3-12 times more than their counterparts for large heavy boxes. Features of the pricing of the consumer society ...

If the drawers, on the contrary, are large and wide, in the entire front of the chest of drawers, then the plywood bottom will not hold in the groove even when reinforced from below with cranial bars. Making a solid bottom from a construction board is expensive and the box itself will be heavy. It is necessary to make a support frame under the bottom, pos. B. Her boards are fastened to the sides of the box from the outside with confirms, and the cranial bars between them are nails.


Guides

All modern guides for furniture drawers are technically and ergonomically designed as hangers with full outreach. in the case, no more than 5-7 cm of the drawer remains at the maximum extension, everything inside it is visible and nothing needs to be groped. But in commercial practice, it is customary to call the guides of the full removal those on which the box completely extends beyond the envelope so that its rear tsar is also outside. For the user, this can only matter if, during operation, the box sometimes needs to be removed from the suspension. Also, the guides are divided into lower (supporting the box from below), side and upper, ball, roller and sliding. Additionally - on the usual overhead guides and metaboxes, in which the side drawer drawers are included in the delivery set and work as part of the mechanism.

Note: it also matters whether there is a closer in the suspension of the drawer - a device that pushes it to the end from a light push into the facade.

About box loads

In guide rails specifications, by default, they indicate the dynamic load they can carry. To get the weight that a fully extended drawer can withstand, it is divided by 3, because dynamic load takes into account overloads in the mechanism from the inertia of a moving loaded box. For example, if somewhere on the sheet there is an icon "25 kg", then this box with the contents should weigh no more than 8 kg.

Note: and also, when buying guides, check that the halves of the pair are marked R (right) and L (left). There are known cases when unscrupulous traders sold identical halves of broken kits, and then "got rid of", they say, there is no such thing in the list of warranty cases.

Rollers

Roller guides, see fig. the cheapest, 50-200 rubles. for a couple. The lateral technical gap is not large, 26 mm in general for the box, but the vertical gap between the boxes is required from 19 mm (16 mm according to the suspension specifications and general 3 mm). Weight at full carry-over ("in a trade" it is incomplete, about 5 cm of the box remains inside) up to 8 kg. They walk with a roar, the closer is gravitational and therefore works rudely. With careful use, they serve for 7-10 years, and then it is necessary to replace the plastic rollers, all at once. The marking of the drilling for fastening is very simple, on the right in Fig. Exactly there it is necessary to withstand only the lower size of 30 mm, and the upper ones can be larger, depending on the height of the boxes.

Ball Kulkova

Kulkov's ball guides or simply bags, see fig., Are practically eternal, because steel rolling kinematics. Cost 2-3 times more expensive than rollers. They run extremely smoothly and quietly, but there is no closer in the base model. There are modifications with the ability to connect it with the delivery set or optionally. If you take "bags" not for fine-tuning, ask whether they are designed for it or not; the former will be more expensive.


There are also complaints about the difficulty of assembling the "bags", but in practice it turns out that these masters tried to put them together with the box. The Kulkov guides are mounted separately, and then the box is inserted into the body part. This, however, still requires increased accuracy of marking and drilling. A total technical gap of 25 mm per drawer is required only lateral. Hold "bags" weighing from 7 to 20 kg, depending on the model; you can preliminarily be guided by the height of the guides: 17, 27, 35 or 45 mm.

Metaboxes

Metaboxes, see fig., Gave the name to the entire class of drawer hangers with complete side drawers. "Real" metaboxes are roller guides with top suspension, which makes the box quiet and does not warp. The door closer is also very smooth. Complete drawers of metaboxes are available in heights from 85 to 285 mm, so for deep drawers you have to buy (expensive) rails, which still do not protect small contents from falling out, which can get stuck, and when you try to pull out the drawer, both he and the stuck object break. Metaboxes with 175 mm drawers stand approximately as Kulkov's guides, and in all other respects they are equivalent to simple rollers, including service life, but they are not repairable. To calculate the drilling for the installation, a special program is required (DYNALOG or others), because some manufacturers simply do not give her card.


Tandems

Tandem guides are 10-15 times more expensive than simple rollers, but they are very reliable and durable. The weight of the box at full extension is from 20 kg, there are models for 50. There are modifications with complete drawers, they are called metal boxes, pos. 1 in fig. Conventional tandems - really full removal, pos. 2, and the box can be removed as needed without tools. In addition to the closer, the mechanism includes the Tip-On system, pos. 3: the retracted drawer moves out a little by itself from a slight push into the facade. Tandems take up quite a lot of useful furniture space, because the lower technical gap is large, pos. 4, and the area of ​​the bottom of the box is larger than that of its sides. In a chest of drawers with wide and deep drawers, this is very noticeable.

About clearances and fits

The easiest way is to accurately calculate the dimensions of the chest of drawers in the special furniture programs PRO100 or Basis-Furniture. For those who are accustomed to using general design AutoCad or Compass3D, in the software options, you need to set tolerances and landings. The same will be needed if you design a chest of drawers with a pencil on paper. For a chest of drawers, by the way, it may be more than customizing software.

The width and vertical tolerances are set by the technical clearances in the specification of the selected guides, but you will have to calculate them in depth yourself:

Finally

This article did not cover the issues of finishing and decorating the chest of drawers, excluding the video about the mini-chest of drawers; this is a separate big topic. However, a chest of drawers, as an aesthetically pleasing piece of furniture, requires a particularly careful decor. Therefore, the design of the future product needs to be worked out already at the stage of choosing a place for it.

A chest of drawers is a very popular piece of furniture that has not gone out of fashion for several centuries in a row. Its design changes depending on the interior styles, but the essence still remains the same - comfortable to use, compact, but roomy cabinet with a table top on top.

To answer the question of how to make a chest of drawers with your own hands, first of all you need to decide what it should be in height and width, as well as how many drawers the owners need. Therefore, first of all, a sketch or drawing is made, in which all dimensions are affixed, taking into account the space that can be allotted for a similar cabinet-cabinet. Based on the developed drawing, calculations of the amount of required materials are made, and their purchase is carried out.

The chest of drawers can be made of natural wood or chipboard. High-quality wood and its processing will certainly cost more than wood composite, but it is not only an environmentally friendly material, but also more durable than a pressed board made of chips and glue.

If the task is set to make a really beautiful and comfortable piece of furniture, it is very important to choose a high-quality material and make from it, exactly in size, all the details, which then need to be processed well, to smoothness, and adjusted to each other.

However, the first step is still choosing the model of the chest of drawers, depending on its purpose and the height of the owner, so that both spaciousness and ease of use are combined.

Find out and also read the illustrative instructions in the article on our portal.

Common chest of drawers

Chests of drawers are made in various versions, depending on the purpose of their use. And in order to correctly determine the choice, it is advisable to consider several models.

Standard linen chest of drawers

Traditional dressers have always been designed to store linen and small items of clothing. Unlike massive cabinet designs, they take up a small area and look quite aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, this piece of furniture is quite popular today.


"Classic" type of linen chest

Its convenience lies in the compact storage of various things separately from each other, which makes them easy to find. A chest of drawers for linen can be equipped with a different number of drawers with a width of the structure, there can be from two to six, but there are other models in which more drawers of a smaller size are provided.

And, of course, the countertop also becomes a "useful area", where the items for decorating the interior of the room are asking for.

Chest of drawers

Chests of drawers can be of different shapes and heights. Since the hallway usually has a small area, a compact, narrow and high version, a pencil case, which is also quite roomy, is more suitable for it.


It can store multi-season shoes, various care products, as well as hats and scarves. For all these items, one way or another, it is necessary to find a place, and they may well become such a convenient piece of furniture as a chest of drawers-pencil case.

Chest of drawers for a children's room

A chest of drawers for a children's room can be called a necessity, since it is able to replace several pieces of furniture at once. A special design has been developed with a hinged panel that opens when necessary and closes so as not to interfere with the use of drawers.


In such a chest of drawers, you can fit a large number of children's accessories and items necessary for the baby, distributing them among the drawers. Since this piece of furniture is quite compact, it will not clutter up the space of the child's room, which is very important for a child.

This furniture accessory will not become superfluous even when the baby grows up, since you can store not only clothes, but also toys in the chest of drawers. If the wardrobe is originally finished in delicate pastel shades for children, then as the child grows up, it can be repainted in other, more "adult" colors.

Chest of drawers with open shelf for living room or bedroom

This version of the chest of drawers is perfect for the living room. You can install a TV on it, and use open cabinets to store books that you want to have at hand. In the closing boxes, various little things will perfectly hide, of which there are always a lot of them in any house.


In the bedroom, this dresser will be an excellent bedside table, suitable for storing linen, installing a night light and other accessories often used in this room.

A similar design is quite suitable for a bathroom, but in this case, for its manufacture it is necessary to choose just natural wood, which is to be treated with moisture-repellent compounds.

From the information on how many functions this piece of furniture can perform, and how comfortable it is in operation, a logical conclusion suggests itself that a chest of drawers can be considered a necessity for most houses and apartments. If you have a desire to make it yourself, then before starting work, you must definitely familiarize yourself with the technology of the process in order to be able to really assess your own strengths.

An example of preparation, processing of parts and manufacture of a chest of drawers

The quality and appearance of the finished product will directly depend on how accurately the parts are made and processed, so first you need to consider the nuances of this process.

chest of drawers

Parts for each model are made according to a specific drawing, and their connections can be different. The table below summarizes the various aspects of woodworking and dresser assembly that often raise questions. By the way, the given example can also be considered as a "role model" by adjusting the demonstrated model of the chest of drawers to fit your size.

The chest of drawers shown in the table is made of natural boards and beams 20 mm thick using plywood inserts 10 mm thick.

IllustrationBrief description of the performed operation
The edges of the board should be perfectly flat, for this they are cut off, processed on a planer.
It is even better if you have a thicknessing machine at your disposal, passing through which the boards acquire an ideally accurate size in thickness.
You can, of course, carry out this process manually, but it will take much more time and effort.
So it makes sense to contact a carpentry workshop to get blanks.
To obtain solid panels from the boards, they are glued together and pulled together in clamps, leaving in this position until the glue is completely dry.
In order not to damage the wood with clamps, the assembled panel is covered with a bar, and the clamps are already installed on it and tightened.
The grooves and spikes in the bars are cut using a router with a special attachment.
The machine can be professional stationary or manual, but the skill of working with is not required in any case.
The illustration shows a tongue-and-groove connection of two bars.
In this way, the frames are assembled, of which, in some designs, the frame for the drawers consists.
The joining of the frame bars is carried out using wood glue and must be tightened in clamps until completely dry.
The frame during its assembly must be constantly checked for evenness of right angles.
This is done with a square and measuring the diagonals.
To check the rectangularity of the structure and the subsequent high-quality drying of the connecting nodes, the frame is laid in a special template assembled from plywood and a bar fixed exactly at a right angle.
Having straightened the frame according to the template, one thin nail is driven into its joints at an angle.
In the side walls, which are made from the boards previously glued into shields and dried, a groove is cut along the edge with the help of a router - the so-called quarter.
It will help to connect the parts more tightly, which will make the structure more rigid.
Then, on the side walls, grooves are marked and cut into which the support frames for the boxes will be glued.
The grooves are cut with a router and trimmed with a chisel.
The beginning of the groove should be 15 mm from the edge of the panel.
In order for the frame to fit tightly into the groove, corners are cut on it, equal in size to the depth of the groove and the distance of its distance from the edge, in this case - 15 mm.
Further, the grooves are coated with glue, and the frames are tightly installed in them.
The upper frame, installed on glue in a quarter cut along the edge of the side panels, is additionally fixed with nails or thin self-tapping screws with a step of 100 ÷ 120 mm.
The illustration shows the fixing of the frames to the structure.
When the glue in the structure is dry, it is turned and laid with the front side down.
When turning, the structural elements may shift somewhat, so the squareness must be checked by measuring the diagonals. They, of course, must have the same length.
In the next step, the back wall of the structure is cut out of 10 mm thick plywood, its edges are processed.
It is then placed in selected quarters of the side panels.
The sheet is fixed to the walls with carnations or self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be immersed in the wood.
Then, the dresser is lifted and placed on the bottom panel.
In this model, the space between the two upper frames must be divided to accommodate two drawers.
For this, the middle of the front part of the chest of drawers is determined, and in this place a vertical section of the board is installed.
Such a jumper will not only become a dividing element, but also make the structure more rigid.
The partition is fixed in the desired marked place with self-tapping screws through the upper and lower frame, with the obligatory preliminary drilling of thin holes for fasteners in order to prevent cracks.
Next, you can proceed to the manufacture of drawers.
The most difficult thing in this process is the toothed connection of the corners, which will be practically impossible to form by hand, therefore, you cannot do without a machine with a special milling nozzle.
Before starting to cut the teeth, a quarter is cut in the boards along the edge to accurately join the two panels.
They are fixed in a special clip located along the edge of the workbench. One board is laid horizontally, the other vertically, butt to each other in the selected quarter.
The edges of the boards are offset relative to each other by a tooth pitch.
Then they are clamped from above with a template along which the cutouts will be made.
The cuts are made by a router with a cutter of the selected configuration - straight or dovetail type, intended for this process.
In this photo, you can see that the connecting teeth are cut with a cutter at the same time on one and the other board.
Thus, after it is turned over from the panels to be joined, and the edges are aligned, the teeth and grooves should ideally match each other.
In addition to spikes, for corner joints, before assembling the structure, grooves are selected with a router in all three board-walls of the box and in the front wall, into which the plywood bottom panel will be installed.
The next step is to assemble the walls of the box. The spike teeth are aligned with each other and gently tapped with a wooden mallet.
After that, the bottom part is pushed into the grooves of the walls, and then the front part of the box is installed.
Further, the evenness of the corners is monitored - for this, the diagonals of the box are measured. Then the plywood bottom is fixed to the front board of the box with studs.
Then, the front panel is fixed to the front wall of the drawer, to which the selected handles are screwed.
If you plan to raise the chest of drawers on the legs connected by an arched jumper, as shown in the illustration, then for the convenience of marking, you should first make a template.
To make the legs, three boards are first fastened at the corners with a toothed (spike) connection.
Then, markings are made on the facade board according to the template.
Further, two arcs are connected by a straight line, which is drawn along a ruler (along a horizontal level).
According to the same principle, and using the same template, markings are made on the sides of the base.
Then, along the indicated lines, using a jigsaw, neat cuts are made, and then their edges are processed.
When the legs are cut and connected, a bar is glued along the upper edge of the resulting structure, and then screwed with self-tapping screws, which will create the necessary platform for installing a chest of drawers with an internal frame on top of it.
Further, the upper edge of the stand under the chest of drawers needs to be refined - for this it is processed using a curly cutter.
Then, the dresser is turned over again so that the legs can be secured to the lower frame.
The structure of the legs is first set on glue, and then screwed on with self-tapping screws.
From the back side of the chest of drawers, a triangular kerchief is glued to the legs, and then screwed on, with a cutout made in its lower part for a bar, fixed on the side legs.
The top edge is screwed onto the side leg and the bottom edge is screwed onto the frame frame.
This ensures the rigidity of the structure of the chest of drawers.
The next step is to cut out and try on the tabletop.
In the frame under it, the places are marked where the holes will be made and countersunk through which the panel will be fixed to the frame of the frame and the sidewalls using the dowels inserted into it.
Further, the tabletop is fixed on the upper frame of the structure from below, with self-tapping screws having a length of 5 mm less than the total thickness of the tabletop board and the frame under it.
The worktop panel can be processed in advance or after it is fixed on the walls of the chest of drawers - the edges of the boards on both sides are rounded off with a cutter and sanded to perfect smoothness.
If the product is planned to be left in its natural form, without staining, then if desired, you can highlight the texture of the wood using a special brush with a metal bristle.
If you plan to paint or varnish, then this process is carried out in several layers with water-based compositions.

On the given example, the assembly with joints, which have traditionally been used for a long time for the manufacture of various cabinets from natural wood, was demonstrated. But, it should be noted that such operations lend themselves only to experienced craftsmen, armed, in addition, with a special professional-grade tool. However, in our time, the task can be simplified if you purchase various fasteners, which are presented in a large assortment in furniture fittings stores.

"Classic" chest of drawers with six drawers

This version of the chest of drawers is made of boards and plywood 19 (20) mm thick; in its manufacture, you can safely rely on the instructions given in the above table.

Construction details

To make this model of a chest of drawers, you will need the following materials and parts:

the name of detailPart size, mmQuantity, pieces
Details for making the chest of drawers itself
Foundation facade (board)90 × 89 × 7871
Back of the base (board)19 × 89 × 4451
Base sides (board)19 × 89 × 4452
Base beam (board)32 × 32 × 894
Front apron base19 × 64 × 8001
Base apron sides (board)19 × 64 × 4702
Back strip of the base apron (board)19 × 64 × 6731
Sidewalls (plywood)19 × 432 × 10292
Back wall (plywood)19 × 743 × 10291
Front and rear drawer support strips19 × 89 × 74312
Side strips for drawer supports19 × 89 × 23512
Front apron strip19 × 89 × 7241
Back apron strip19 × 89 × 5721
Apron side strips19 × 89 × 3372
Front frame struts19 × 38 × 10292
Runners6.4 x 19 x 4256
Front frame cross members19 × 38 × 6867
Corner braces19 × 89 × 894
Lid19 × 470 × 8001
Parts for making boxes
Decorative facades19 × 146 × 7116
Side walls19 × 114 × 41912
Front walls19 × 114 × 6546
Back walls19 × 101 × 6546
Bottom part (plywood)19 × 406 × 6546
Guide bars6.4 x 19 x 41912

And this table shows the connecting and hardware elements necessary for assembly:

Name of elementsElements size, mm
Countersunk screws6 × 44
Wooden pins6.4 × 31.8
Countersunk screws6 × 19
Finishing nails22
Wood screws64
Finishing nails55
Countersunk screws6 × 32
Handles - on your own12 pcs.

Chest base


Drawing number 2 - assembly of the base of the chest of drawers.
  • Details for the base of the chest of drawers are made according to the dimensions given in the table and in the drawing. The front and side elements that form the legs in this model have curvilinear shapes, so they are marked out according to a template and cut out with a jigsaw. This process is detailed and shown in the table above. Notched cuts are made only from the front and sides of the base, while the back panel consists of a whole board.
  • The assembly of finished elements is carried out on corner beams. The bars are glued to the front edges of the side panels and to the edges of the back strip. Then they are flush fixed to the panels with countersunk screws.
  • Further, the rear edges of the sidewalls are coated with glue and fixed on the bars screwed to the rear strip, and also twisted.
  • The facade of the base is glued to the sidewalls and screwed on last.
  • When the base is assembled, it must be tightened in clamps and the evenness of the corners must be checked with a square and the measurement of the diagonals.
  • A frame called an apron must be laid on the base. Four planks are cut to size to form the frame, one side of the planks is processed with a cutter, which gives a semicircular shape to the edge of the board. Then, the edges of the planks, from which the front part of the apron will be formed, are cut off at an angle of 45 degrees.
  • The finished parts must be fixed to the base with glue. The adhesive is applied to the end face of the base elements and corner beams. Further, strips are laid on the glued surface one by one. Their ends in the corners are also coated with glue, and after that the apron is pressed to the base with clamps until the glue is completely dry.

Frame fabrication

While the glue on the base dries, you can start assembling the frame.

Drawing number 3 - Side wall of the chest of drawers.
  • The panels of the sidewalls of the structure are cut from the prepared boardboards according to the specified dimensions. Then, the marking is made, based on the presented drawing, and a fold is selected at the edges of the parts, and then the grooves into which the support frames for the boxes will be installed. How these works are carried out is also shown and described in the first table.

The back panel is made of plywood according to the specified dimensions.


Drawing No. 4 - assembly of support frames for chest of drawers.
  • Further, the frames are made, which will become the supports for the boxes. Planks are cut from the board, corresponding to the given dimensions. The finished parts are assembled into a single structure using dowels, which are set on glue - how this is done can be clearly seen in the drawing and in the table. The lower support frame is fixed to the apron strips, and the rest of the frames for the boxes consist only of support parts. Having assembled the frame with glue, its diagonals are measured and compared, and then the structure is pulled together with clamps. In the middle of the assembled frame, a runner is fixed using 19 mm screws with countersunk heads.
  • The next step in the grooves cut in the sidewalls, the frame-supports for the boxes are installed on the glue. They are pushed into the groove space as far as to be flush with the leading edges of the side panels.
  • Having installed all the frames in the grooves of the sidewalls, you need to fix the back wall of the chest of drawers, which will give the structure its rigidity. The plywood wall is attached to the sidewalls with glue and then fixed with 22 mm finishing nails.

Fastening the frame to the base

  • The next step is to attach the chest of drawers to the base apron. Work must be done carefully and only after the glue has completely dried, in order to prevent skewing of the structure.
  • The frame is installed on the base apron, and its back wall must be flush with the base. From the front part and on the sides of the structure, the apron should protrude 19 mm relative to the frame sidewalls. After fitting and making markings on the apron, the frame is removed from it. After that, glue is applied to the apron according to the markings, then the frame is set in place and fixed to the apron with screws 64 mm long.

Fitting the front frame

  • Lateral and transverse strips of the facade frame are made of the board, according to the dimensions given in the table. The connection of these parts is carried out using dowels, which are set on glue.
  • The distance between the cross members should be 165 mm, as they will later be fixed to the front end side of the support frame for the boxes. After the frame is ready, it is fixed to the sides and frames with glue and nailed with finishing nails 50 mm long.

Dresser top

  • The table top for the chest of drawers is cut to the specified dimensions from well-processed boards glued together into a shield. The edges of the backboard are processed with a semicircular cutter - they must match the appearance of the edge of the dresser apron.
  • Further, in the upper corners of the frame, corner spacers are installed, which are rectangles. Two holes are drilled in them for screws with a size of 32 mm, which are countersunk and expanded to the shape of an ellipse. The spacers are fixed in the corners of the frame with glue and screws.
  • After the glue has dried, a worktop can be mounted on top of the frame. It is laid so that its back side is flush with the back wall of the frame, and the overhangs of the front and side sides equally extend beyond it.
  • The tabletop is fixed from below, it is fastened through the holes countersunk in the spacers with screws 32 mm. When installing this panel, no glue is used, since it should be able to move slightly in the countersunk holes when the temperature and humidity in the room change.

Chest of drawers


Drawing No. 5 - assembly of drawers of a chest of drawers.
  • The walls of the boxes are made of prepared processed boards according to the dimensions given in the table.
  • In the lower part of the walls, grooves are cut into which the bottoms of the boxes made of plywood are inserted.
  • In this model of a chest of drawers, the walls of the drawers are connected at the corners not by toothed spike joints, but by means of a cut-out of the grooves, as shown in the drawing-figure. The walls of the beginning are fastened with glue, and then pulled together with self-tapping screws. After the rear wall is connected to the side ones, the bottom is installed, and then the front wall of the box is mounted.
  • Further, it is necessary to process the front panel, which is fixed to the front wall of the box. To do this, its edges are processed, which will round the corners of the board. The front panel is first fixed with glue, and then screwed with 32 mm self-tapping screws from the inside of the box. Before fixing the handles to the boxes, their location is marked, and holes are drilled at the necessary points through which mounting screws or screws are screwed into the handles from the inside of the box.
  • After the box is almost completely ready, on the outside of its bottom part, in its middle, two guides are fixed at a distance of 22 mm from each other. These parts are fixed with glue and pressed with clamps until completely dry. After that, the box is tested. It is installed so that the frame rail is located between the two drawer rails. If there are problems with the easy movement of the box, then you need to grind the runner or the guides, slightly expanding the distance between them.

There are six such drawers for this model, and, collecting each of them, it is necessary to try on them, installing them in the frame of the chest of drawers. You need to make sure that they not only move freely along the runner, but also beautifully dock with each other.

After the final assembly and installation of the boxes, you can proceed to finishing operations.

Chest of drawers with five drawers

Such a model of a chest of drawers can be made of natural wood or chipboard. If you plan to install this piece of furniture in a children's room or bedroom, then it is best to choose well-processed boards for manufacturing.


The design of this version of the chest of drawers differs from the previous one in that the drawers are equipped with modern metal guides, which eliminates the rather complicated process of manufacturing and assembling frame support frames.

To make this version of the chest of drawers, you will need to make the following parts, based on this drawing:


the name of detailPart size, mmQuantity, pieces
Table top (lid) of a chest of drawers900 × 530 × 151
Mounting (support under the cover)858 × 80 × 102
Base858 × 500 × 101
Sidewall784 × 500 × 152
Plinth858 × 50 × 101
Small drawer facade442 × 181 × 152
Facade of a large box886 × 64 × 153
Drawer side walls450 × 131 × 1510
Front and back wall of small drawer364 × 131 × 154
Back wall of large drawer801 × 131 × 156
Divider panel between small drawers484 × 164 × 151
Rear panel for attaching the separator panel and support rail.
But, if the back wall is made of plywood, then this element is not needed in the structure.
858 × 164 × 151
The bottom of a small box (fiberboard)448 × 394 × 152
Bottom of a large box (fiberboard)448 × 831 × 153
The back wall of the chest of drawers (plywood or fiberboard)732 × 888 × 101
PensOn your own8
Guide450 10 sets

The assembly of the cabinet takes place in the following sequence:

  • Markings of places are made on the sidewalls of the chest of drawers cut to size:

- where the grooves will be cut for installing the bottom part;

- installation flush with the walls of the support strips under the table top;

- cut the rear bottom corner under the plinth so that the chest of drawers can be installed close to the wall;

- the lines for securing the guide boxes are made according to the drawing below and the table with dimensions:


Designation in the drawingRequired size, mm
N-1160
N-2343
N-3526
N-4693
N-5144
  • Further, grooves are cut out along the markings.
  • After that, all the elements are cut out according to the sizes indicated in the table - the chest of drawers will be assembled from them. This is a bottom panel, two support strips, a rear wall of the structure, a plinth strip and a dividing piece that is installed between two small drawers.
  • Guides are fixed along the marking lines on the sidewalls.
  • The bottom panel slides into the bottom grooves up to the rear edge.
  • On top of the sidewalls from the front and rear edges, support strips are placed in the grooves and fixed. After their installation, the structure will receive sufficient rigidity for further work.
  • Further, the back wall is closed with plywood. It is screwed on with self-tapping screws or nailed.
  • Now you need to find the middle of the support strips and the back wall, since the dividing panel will be fixed along this line with the guides for the drawers fixed on it on both sides. It is fixed through the support strips and the back wall with self-tapping screws.
  • The next step is under the bottom panel in the front part, between the side walls, a plinth strip is fixed. It can be fixed on metal corners by installing them from the inside, or using dowels, hammering them through the side walls.
  • From above, the entire structure is closed by a table top, which must be laid flush with the rear wall, and the front and side overhangs must have the same width.
  • Further, all the details for the boxes are made. They are assembled according to the same principle as in the previous version, but the roller guides installed on their side walls, which are mounted according to the drawing, become an exception.

Chest of drawers with a baby changing table

This chest of drawers can be called multifunctional, as it will serve young parents not only for storing a large number of baby clothes, but also an excellent place for massage, changing clothes or getting the child for a walk, as well as an ironing surface. All these functions become feasible thanks to the fastening of the sides and the folding part to the table top, with the help of which the horizontal surface of the chest of drawers becomes almost twice as large.

chest of drawers Standard


For the manufacture of this model of a chest of drawers, having overall dimensions of 960 × 600 × 450 mm, it will be necessary to make the following parts:


the name of detailPart size, mmAmount
Table top (lid)600 × 460 × 151
Back rail of the table top guard100 × 555 × 151
Side rail100 × 410 × 152
Hinged side bar100 × 380 × 152
Hinged cover600 × 265 × 151
Side panel800 × 430 × 152
Tightening bar75 × 563 × 152
Rear wall (prefabricated, plywood)735 × 295 × 102
Drawer front177 × 595 × 154
Drawer side wall100 × 400 × 158
Drawer back100 × 505 × 154
Drawer bottom535 × 400 × 104
Roller guides400 mm4 sets
Decorative handle- 8
Connecting bar- 1
Heel- 4
Euro screws (confirmations)7 × 5028
Screw3.5 × 1632
Screw3.5 × 308
Dowel8 × 3516
Nails35 50 ÷ 70
Eccentric with stemd-252

How to make the details of the chest of drawers and assemble them into a common structure has already been described above. In this model, as in the previous one, the movement of drawers is carried out using metal roller guides fixed on the walls of the box and on the sides of the drawers.

Therefore, in this case, it is only worth focusing on the manufacture and installation of elements that are not present in any of the above models - these are side bars and a folding table design.


According to the given drawings, side rails and folding rails are made. The side edges of the parts are marked along the marked radius and cut out with a jigsaw.

The table top, the hinged cover and the back of the fence are cut to the dimensions indicated in the table. All parts must be well processed with a milling cutter, rounding their ends.

Before installing the tabletop on the chest of drawers, a stationary enclosing and folding structure is mounted on it.


To connect the rear and side walls, grooves are cut along the vertical edges of the rear wall. Side strips are glued into them and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws from the back side, which will be installed permanently. Then, this structure is fixed along the edges of the table top with glue and dowels.

While the glue dries, the folding part of the table is made. To do this, at the edges of the hinged panel, places are marked on which the strips will be fixed. When closed, the hinged panel must completely cover the side and rear wall installed on the table top. Therefore, before installation, you need to carefully measure the place where the fastening screw will be installed.


Having determined this point, holes are drilled in the side and flap bar, into which a screw with a mortise countersunk nut is installed - an eccentric, which allows the hinged structure to open and close freely. After that, a test of the folding part of the chest of drawers is carried out, and if everything went well, the tabletop can be mounted on a ready-assembled box.


The table top is installed on top of the box walls and fixed with dowels glued into the ends of the sidewalls.

Drawers are assembled according to the same principle as in the previous version of the chest of drawers, and the parts for them are made according to the dimensions shown in the table.

Find out how by exploring several options in our article.

The manufacture and assembly of a chest of drawers cannot be called a simple process, since all its parts must be manufactured and processed with utmost precision. For this, of course, you need at least minimal experience in working with woodworking tools. However, everything can be learned. And if you have a great desire to start working with wood in order to make various pieces of furniture from it, you should try your hand at this fascinating craft.

And in conclusion - a very interesting video in which, albeit an unprofessional, but nevertheless, the master shares his secrets and conducts a detailed analysis of the mistakes he made when making a chest of drawers.

Video: do-it-yourself chest of drawers - debriefing