Wood stain is very popular and is designed to give various products from wood for aesthetics and decorativeness, changing their tone and emphasizing texture, and most importantly - to increase their service life. To achieve this, the antiseptic properties of stains allow. There are also stains for wood that can protect the treated surface from insect pests, mold and fungus.

This article discusses in detail not only what stain is, but also its main types, properties, advantages, and why it is needed.

Depending on the purpose and composition, wood stain has the following advantages over a number of other paints and varnishes:

• The possibility of combining shades (for example, dark colors, walnut or pine, light colors, black, etc.).
• Coating with stains strengthens the structure of the material.
• Increase the service life of products.
• Partial imparting moisture resistance to lumber.
• It makes it possible to both give the tree a noble shade and get another color scheme(there are a variety of stain colors).
• Preservation of wood structure.

The main advantage of this tinting composition is deep penetration into the wood. This allows you to save the texture of the tree. Therefore, the answers to the questions about what is better - stains or varnishes, and why stain is needed, become obvious.

Color palette

There are different wood stain colors and it is very difficult to answer the question of how to choose the most suitable one. This material allows you to give almost any shade to wood products. For example, black stain is very popular, which allows you to give the surface the appearance of a black mirror. Before applying it, it is recommended to polish the base.

Gray stain makes it possible to avoid highlighting the finished product from the general interior. It is worth painting with it only if the walls and textiles in the interior are bright. Gray can cause depression, besides, products in this color will look too faded and gray.

Psychologists advise choosing a green stain (colored stain), as this shade causes positive emotions. Green color suitable for surface treatment various items interior. Blue stain allows you to get a very expressive look of the processed product. Choose it to combine with yellow and white tones.

There are more natural wood stain colors on the market. But there is a colorless impregnation that allows you to keep the surface in its natural color.

Main types

Impregnation for wood is different, depending on the composition. Consider the most common types of stains:

• Water-based stains. Water stain is powder (water-soluble) and in the form finished formulations. It is an environmentally friendly product (regardless of external factors, there are no harmful fumes and smells), and it also has a rich color range. If necessary, the product can be easily washed off with water, so it is recommended to apply an additional protective layer (for example, varnish). The main disadvantage is the rise of wood fibers, as a result of which the product becomes more vulnerable to moisture (non-aqueous impregnation is used to eliminate the disadvantage). Water stains for wood are the most widespread.

• Alcohol compositions. Are issued ready to use or in dry form (powder is required to be diluted). Are intended for protection of a tree from dampness and an ultraviolet. This impregnation dries quickly enough, which avoids raising the pile and swelling of the wood.

• Oil formulations. The composition of the stain includes dyes soluble in drying oil and oils. It is possible to apply impregnations of this group by any method and tool. They do not fill the wood with additional moisture and do not lift the fibers. A variety of colors of stains for wood of this group, if desired, allows you to achieve any shade by simply adding dyes.

• acrylic blends. Acrylic-based impregnations are an environmentally friendly, child-safe and fire-fighting product. Acrylic stain is great for all types of wood and dries very quickly.

• Wax stains. Allow to process the painted surfaces. Wax-based impregnations reliably protect the treated surface from moisture. It is important to know that wax stain should not be applied before wood is coated with two-component varnishes.

On the video: stain selection rules.

Application methods

There are four main ways to apply stain:

1. Rubbing painting. The composition is applied to the surface, after which it is rubbed over the entire area. It is recommended to apply when processing porous breeds of trees.
2. Spraying. When staining wood by spraying, a manual or automatic spray gun is used as a tool for applying the stain.
3. Foam roller treatment. The method avoids the formation of streaks and helps to evenly distribute the mixture over the entire surface.
4. Wood processing paint brush . The method allows you to get a deeper and more saturated color of wood, but is not suitable for all types of impregnation.

• Before painting the surface with a stain, it is necessary to remove old coatings from it, and then degrease it better.
• Softwood surfaces (such as pine) must be deresined.
• It is necessary to paint the wood with stain and remove excess only in the direction of the wood structure.
• It is recommended to cover the surface with 2-3 layers, while for the first layer a small volume of the mixture should be used.
• After the first layer dries, the surface must be sanded and the raised pile removed, and then, if necessary, apply the next layers (each next layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried).

Approximate drying time for impregnations oil based is about three days, and water-based impregnation and solvents - 2-3 hours (depending on how many layers were applied). large areas It is recommended to divide the treated surface into small sections and paint them in stages. To avoid the possibility of the formation of defects on the surface, the composition must be diluted. For this, a solvent is used.

For aqueous impregnations, water is used, for oil impregnations, solvents for paints are used. Also, before starting work, the surface can be coated with Latek L 601 putty.

Wood stains for plywood perform an exclusively decorative function. Therefore, if there is any doubt what to choose - stain or varnish, it is recommended to use them in combination. Before covering the surface of the plywood, it must be moistened, and the mixture itself is recommended to be heated.

After covering the wood with stain, varnishing follows (layers must be very thin to avoid the possibility of smudges). As a tool, you can use a brush, roller or sponge. Wood varnish will enhance the protective properties of the impregnation. By following these recommendations, you can easily stain wood at home.

Defects and their elimination

Carry out staining wooden furniture it is necessary to be extremely careful, otherwise there is a great possibility of the formation of defects, which are quite difficult to eliminate. But if you know how to get rid of them correctly, then problems should not arise.

The main defect is the formation of streaks. They arise as a result of applying a large amount of the mixture and its subsequent fast drying. In this case, it is necessary to remove the impregnation layer applied to the wood, then apply a new layer on it, which will soften it, and then remove the excess impregnation with a rag.

After the wood stain has completely dried, it can be removed with paint thinners. Before that upper layer removed with emery or a planer, since the solvent is not able to remove all the pigment.

You can pick up a special wash that will remove an extra layer of coating impregnation from the tree. You can use a hair dryer in combination with a scraper and brush - sometimes it's better than washing.

The most difficult defect is the spotting of the product. To remove it, the painted area is treated with a planer (this defect is not washed off with a solvent). In plywood, all face veneer must be removed. To avoid spotting, it is best to use a gel stain or first apply a test coat on an unwanted piece of wood to see how the coating behaves on the desired surface. It is worth remembering that it is necessary to store the impregnation in a place closed from children.

To give greater decorativeness and aesthetics to wood products, they are treated with wood stain. The solution changes the tone and emphasizes the texture of the wood. Modern stains have antiseptic properties and can significantly extend the life of the product.

Consider what types of stains are, how you can make a composition with your own hands, and what are the basic rules for applying stain to wood.

The purpose of wood stain

Stain - a tinting composition that is applied to treated wood to change natural color wood, plywood, furniture, chipboard, fiberboard and MDF. Morilka has a second name Beyts.

A special composition penetrates deep into the wood, so that the texture of the wood is preserved. Such an effect from enamel or paint cannot be achieved.

Some use stain to hide the true type of wood, such as painting inexpensive pine in the colors of noble woods. Others use wood stain to update a room or to highlight a beautiful texture. natural material.

With the skillful use of stain and a combination of several shades at the same time, you can turn an ordinary wood product into an artistic value.

In addition to decorative functions, some types of stains also have protective properties. Wood-protective compositions include stains on an oil-alkyd basis or solvents. Such stains are able to protect the tree from insect pests, the appearance of mold and fungi.

Types of stains for wood processing

The main criterion by which all stains are classified is the basis for making the solution. The most common stains are water, alcohol, oil, acrylic and wax based. Consider the features of each type.

Water-based stains are available in two forms: dry stains in powder form for self-dilution in water, and in a ready-to-use state. Water stains take a long time to dry, so it will take a long time to get a uniform tone.

The main inconvenience of using stain is that during processing, the composition raises the wood fiber. On the one hand, this emphasizes the structure of the tree, and on the other hand, it makes the product more vulnerable to moisture. Therefore, before applying the stain, the wood should be wetted superficially, left to soak for a while and carefully sanded.

Alcohol stain is a solution of organic dyes with pigments in ethyl alcohol. Alcohol compositions are used for antiseptic and decorative coloring wooden products. Such stains reduce pile uplift and do not cause swelling of the wood.

When using alcohol stain, it is difficult to achieve uniform staining, as the composition dries quickly, and stains can form. For toning small items, such stains can be suitable, but it will be very problematic to paint the parquet.

Alcohol stains are applied only with a spray gun (spray gun), and when stained with a brush, the result can be unpredictable

Oil based stain have many tones and shades. Oil stain contains dyes soluble in drying oil and oils. White spirit is used as a solvent.

Oil stain - the most convenient to use: it can be applied different ways, does not lift the fibers and is distributed evenly over the entire surface. Products treated with oil-based stains can be easily repainted and restored.

Wax and acrylic stains- the latest generation of tinting materials. Stains based on acrylic resins and wax form a thin colored film on the surface of the wood, which additionally protects the material from excessive moisture. These types of stains evenly "lay" on the surface and are well suited for processing. wooden floors.

Acrylic stains have a wide range of tones that can be mixed to achieve subtler shades. The composition does not bad smell, non-flammable and suitable for all types of wood. Acrylic stains do not emit harmful fumes, and dry quickly after application.

When working with acrylic stain, it is important not to overdo it with the layer thickness. A good effect can be obtained when applying no more than 2 layers, if more, then stains may form.

Wax stains are very soft wax. They can be used directly on wood or pre-painted surfaces. Wax stains are applied with a cloth and spread over the wood with a rubbing motion.

Wax stains look most effective in combination with polishing. This technique is often used when finishing turning products, profiles and threads.

Important! Wax-based stains must not be used before wood treatment with two-component acid-curing varnishes or polyurethane.

Making a stain with your own hands: recipes for craftsmen

Plant stains

You can give wood a different shade with the help of plant components.

Wood stains based on coffee, tea and vinegar

Do-it-yourself wood stain can be made from improvised means: coffee, tea and vinegar.

You can give the tree a cherry, brown and dark brown hue with a solution of potassium permanganate: 50 g must be diluted in 1 liter warm water, apply to the wood, and after 5 minutes wipe the surface with a soft cloth. In order to get a brighter shade, the treatment with potassium permanganate must be repeated.

After treating the wood with potassium permanganate stain, the surface must be covered protective composition, otherwise potassium permanganate will fade

Stains with chemical components

If you want to get a lasting color, you can experiment and create a stain from chemicals.

Whitening stains

Bleaching wood allows you to prepare the product for painting and achieve expressive tone. Some tree species, when bleached, acquire unexpected color shades. For example, walnut, which has a uniform texture with a purple tint, after treatment with a bleaching stain, becomes a pale pink or scarlet pink. The bleaching of the apple tree makes the wood a noble ivory color.

Whitening stain: photo

For bleaching, you can use different solutions. Some act very quickly, others more slowly.

1. Solution from oxalic acid. Dissolve 1.5-6 g of oxalic acid in 100 g of boiled water. This composition is suitable for bleaching light woods: linden, white poplar, light walnut, birch and maple. Dirty tones or gray spots may appear on other types of wood. Veneer sheets after bleaching should be washed with a solution (composition: hot water- 100 g, soda ash- 3 g, bleach - 15). This treatment deresin the surface and raises the pile of wood.
2. Bleaching with 25% hydrogen peroxide is suitable for most tree species except lemon tree, oak and rosewood. Products, after treatment with peroxide, do not need to be washed. Peroxide solution bleaches only finely porous tree species. Wood containing tannins is very difficult to lighten with such a stain. To improve the bleaching process, tannins must first be treated with a 10% solution of ammonia.

The results of bleaching different tree species:

• birch after bleaching in a solution of oxalic acid gets a greenish tint;
• ash and oak veneer becomes noticeably lighter after treatment with oxalic acid;
• Anatolian nut when bleached in hydrogen peroxide (peroxide concentration not lower than 15%) acquires a golden hue, and walnut - pink.

Methods for applying stain

Wood stain processing can be done in one of four ways:

1. Spraying. The stain is applied to the surface of the wood with an airbrush. Spraying allows you to achieve an even distribution of the stain and obtain an even texture.
2. Trituration. The stain is applied to the wood and evenly rubbed over the entire area of ​​the product. The coating is transformed, the texture becomes pronounced. This method is optimal for porous wood species, and the stain should not be used to dry quickly.
3. Application with a roller or swab. This method is used when processing products with a small area, it helps to avoid streaks and ensures a uniform distribution of the stain over the surface.
4. Brush application. In the absence of a spray gun or swab, you can use a brush, but this method is not suitable for all types of stain. Experts note that when applied with a brush, the wood gives a deeper, richer color than with other methods.

The main principles of wood stain processing

In order to receive beautiful product from natural material, it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of wood processing.

Applying stain: video

Possible defects and their elimination

It is necessary to apply the stain very carefully, since it will be quite difficult to remove the resulting defects.

The formation of streaks. This happens if the stain is applied to in large numbers and dries very quickly. In this case, you should try to remove the stain layer as much as possible. Another layer of stain should be applied to the hardening layer, which will soften the drying one, and then remove excess solution with a rag.

If the stain is completely dry, then a paint thinner must be used to remove it. However, the entire pigment cannot be removed. The top painted layer can be removed with a planer or sandpaper.

Product spotting. If the treated wood has an uneven density or wavy, then the absorption of the stain may occur unevenly - the color will be richer in some places, and lighter in others.

Spotting on products made of mahogany or walnut looks attractive, but on wood of cherry, birch, pine, spruce and poplar - it does not look natural

Spotting is very difficult to remove. You can remove the layer of stained wood with a planer, in plywood you will need to remove all the front veneer.

It is better to prevent the appearance of spotting in advance:

• test the wood - apply stain to an unnecessary piece of the workpiece;
• use stain gel.

Stain-gel - a thick, pasty stain that does not spread and does not penetrate deep into the wood. In addition, helium stains have a low absorption rate.

Today, there is such a variety of impregnating agents for wood on sale that even a specialized specialist will not be able to unambiguously answer the question of what is their fundamental difference. If you read the instructions for preparations, then the conclusion suggests itself that most of them protect wood literally “from everything”. So why do you need wood stain? Is it only for its toning, as is commonly believed?

• Toning wood while preserving its texture.
• Reliable material protection when other means are ineffective or their use is not economically feasible. Argumentation - stains are characterized by a greater penetration depth, while they are cheaper than paints, varnishes and a number of other preparations used for wood processing (at least 2.5 times).
• Imitation of another, more expensive breed.
• Wood bleaching. This is often done either in the process of its restoration, or in preparation for painting (application of colored varnish).
• Protection of the material from decay (antiseptic function) and destruction by wood-boring insects.
• Combining shades, creating the effect of surface finishes with different woods.
• Some stains strengthen its structure.
• Giving (partial) moisture-repellent properties to lumber.
• Any stain, regardless of composition, definitely increases the life of the tree.

But is everything so simple? Is it enough to buy any of the stains available for sale, and all the problems with reliable wood processing are solved? An exhaustive answer can be obtained if you familiarize yourself with all the varieties of liquids in this group. By the way, stains are often referred to differently - beets - and they are used not only to protect and prepare for the further use of natural wood, but also building materials based on it (plywood, MDF, fiberboard, OSV, chipboard).

Wood stain modifications

They are classified according to what they are based on. They go on sale in the form of ready-made liquids, gels or powders, but the properties of stains depend only on the components and their proportion.

Water beets

• Such stains are distinguished by a wide variety of shades, so you can choose the composition for almost any type of wood and make it the required tinting in relation to the interior of a particular room.
• "Environmental Safety". For those who care about the "purity" of the product, water stains - best option. No harmful fumes, regardless of external factors. First of all, temperatures.
• Given the basis, it is clear that it is not difficult to wash off such a stain with water. In some cases, this is relevant if, in the process of working with a tree, it is necessary to slightly change the resulting shade.

• Water stains are means of deep penetration. This property also has a negative component. In the process of processing, the tree is additionally saturated with liquid. What does this mean? First, it becomes more susceptible to moisture absorption. Secondly, shrinkage lasts longer, and often initiates twisting of the machined workpiece. Therefore, the use of stains of this group requires both experience and accuracy.
• The need for subsequent application of a protective layer on the tree. For example, varnish, which is most often practiced.

Alcohol stains

• Impregnation dries quickly. Someone considers this a disadvantage, but the ease of use is obvious. Especially when working outdoors, when the weather is unstable and there is a chance of precipitation.
• High-quality protection of a tree from an ultraviolet and dampness.

• Sharp specific smell. When organizing work in the room, it is necessary to ensure its effective ventilation. Can this be done in the winter?
• Rapid absorption into the structure of the material. This somewhat complicates the treatment of wood with alcohol stains, since due to the uneven application of the impregnation, there is a risk of stains on the general background. Experts advise using a spray gun, since it is almost impossible to achieve a uniform shade of wood manually (with a brush) without proper experience.

Oil stains

Pros:

• Do not fill the tree with moisture.
• Easily change the shade when adding dyes.
• The stains of this group lie on the tree thin layer, evenly, so there are no difficulties in working with them.
• Do not fade under the influence of ultraviolet light.
• Application of additional protective coating(varnish, wax) on wood is not required.
• Inert to changes in temperature and humidity of the environment.

• Certain toxicity.
• Long drying time (depending on application conditions).

Wax and nitro stain (acrylic)

Their characteristics are largely similar.

• After drying of such stains, the thinnest protective film appears on the wood.
• Uniformity of a shade on all processed area is guaranteed. The presence of spots, bald spots is excluded.
• The structure of the tree stands out especially clearly.

• The complexity of working with these stains. Mainly due to the rapid "setting" of the impregnation. Therefore, any further alterations are no longer possible.
• One of the advantages of wood is lost - the ability to "breathe". The reason is in the resulting film. Not all users notice this, but nevertheless. How permeable it is is a big question.

Rustic stains

Pretty new drugs. Their main purpose is to emphasize the structure of the material, to achieve several shades in one area. The use of such compositions requires high professionalism, so the author does not focus on them. Only to inform the reader, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to independently process wood. If, of course, we mean a qualitative result.

What to consider when choosing wood stain

Knowing the features of various modifications of these solutions, it is easy to understand. Therefore, the author only summarizes all of the above:

• The specifics of the application - inside or outside the building; temperature, humidity; weather.
• The structure (breed) of a tree. The lower the density, the more deeply the stain penetrates. For example, the use of water-based formulations will significantly increase their consumption per m2. To what extent is it justified, expedient and so on? There is one more nuance. After processing, the color of the tree will be somewhat "lighter" than expected. This is due to the fact that a significant part of the stain will be absorbed, and along with the liquid and the dye.
• Wood condition. Does the lumber have defects that need to be leveled, or vice versa, is it necessary to emphasize all its advantages? This should also be taken into account when choosing stain by shade.
• Personal experience and opportunities. The first one is clear - not everyone will be able to qualitatively apply the required layer of stain, which quickly dries out (absorbs). It depends on practical skills. More difficult with opportunities. As a rule, most "home craftsmen" work with a brush. For applying wax stains, it is recommended to use tampons. Also, nothing special. But does everyone have not only an airbrush, but also a “source” compressed air? Before choosing stains for alcohol, you should think carefully.
• General interior. This mainly applies to internal finishing works. As a rule, the surface design of the wooden parts of the building or individual structural elements no one is engaged, otherwise one of the advantages of lumber is lost - naturalness. Therefore, it is necessary to focus on the shade that the wood stain will give, and how much it will emphasize its structure (or change it).

• If planned further processing wood with polyurethane paint or varnish, which contains acid, then wax stain cannot be used as an impregnation.
• When choosing a tool, you must purchase it with some margin. Practice shows that it will not be possible to accurately determine its consumption per m². Even a specialist will not say exactly how much stain is needed, especially when it comes to processing large area(volume of lumber). And if you make a second purchase in the same store, and impregnations from the same manufacturer, then it is not a fact that the shade will be identical. From batch to batch of goods, it partially changes - these are the costs (features) of technology.
• Effective wood protection is achieved if the stain is applied in at least 2 coats. One-time processing of the required result does not give, therefore, such savings are absolutely meaningless.

Stains are applied to the surface of unfinished wood floors to change the color of the wood. Colored stains can also be applied to previously stained and coated floors for an overlay effect. Get a water-based stain that's made to be easy to apply and doesn't leave marks or streaks. If the manufacturer recommends, apply a filler wood conditioner-primer before staining.

Filler primer conditioners will help prevent streaks and buckling due to fiber swelling when water-based stains are used. There is a wide variety of wood stains available in natural wood tones. You can also choose a colored stain, such as green, for decoration in rustic style, or white color- to give a modern look.
You can also starve a tree by creating an overlay effect with a dilute latex paint, The overlay mortar will be significantly lighter in color than the original paint color. To make this mortar, use the recipe, and experiment with small amounts of paint until you get desired color. Before staining the entire floor surface, apply the stain or overlay effect solution to an inconspicuous area, such as a closet or closet, to evaluate the application method and the resulting color. Protect your stained floor with three coats of a clear matte, semi-matt or glossy finish. Choose this top coat, which will not leave brush marks.

Tools and materials

• Rubber gloves
• Synthetic brush, sponge applicator or lint-free cloth - for stain application
• Filling conditioner-primer for wooden products (at the request of the buyer)
• Wiping cloth
• Cotton lint-free cloth - for wiping the stain
• Water-based stain or latex paint in desired color
• High gloss and semi-gloss transparent coating, e.g. acrylic or polyurethane, to protect stained floors
• Sponge applicator or paint pad and extension handle - for applying clear
• finish coat
• Electric grinder, fine sandpaper

Sand the floor surface with fine sanding paper, sanding in the direction of the wood grain. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove the dust generated by stripping, then wipe the floor with a cleaning cloth.

Put on rubber gloves for handling stains. Stir thoroughly wood stain or mortar to create an overlay effect. Synthetic brush or sponge applicator put stain on the floor or solution. At any given time, work is performed on small areas of the floor. Keep the edge of the brush or applicator wet, try not to overlap the brush strokes.

Immediately or after waiting a certain time, set by the manufacturer, wipe off excess stain with a dry, lint-free rag: first across the grain of the wood, and then along. Continue applying (and wiping off) the stain until the entire floor is covered. Let the stain dry. Lightly sand the floor with fine sanding paper, then remove the dust generated by the sanding with a cleaning cloth. For a deeper color, apply a second coat of stain and let dry completely.
Use a sponge applicator or paint pad on the extension handle to apply a high gloss clear coat to the stained floor. Let the coating dry. Lightly sand the floor with fine sanding paper, then remove the dust generated by the sanding with a cleaning cloth. Apply two coats of semi-matte clear top coat.

Options for applying wood stain

SOLUTION FOR OVERLAYING EFFECT ON THE FLOOR

Mix the following ingredients:
1 part latex paint 4 parts water

For ordinary rooms, dark wood tones are good. The overlay of the white mortar over the previously applied dark stain softens the official look.

For modern rooms often used pale, neutral color stains. An overlay of blue can make a pale floor more visible.

Moderate warm colors trees have a casual look. Overlaying white on moderate wood tones gives an antique look.

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If you are working with wood and you need to give it a certain color, then you will definitely need a stain. To date, there are several types of stain, which differ in composition. You can find the following in stores types of stains:

• water;
• alcohol;
• oil;
• nitro stains.

Consider each type of stain in more detail.

1. water stain- this is the most common type. It gives the opportunity to paint wood in any tone: from the lightest "pine" color to dark mahogany. Available in liquid and dry form. Liquid water stain can be used immediately, but the dry powder must first be mixed with warm water.

This type of wood stain is almost odorless, which is a big advantage if wood staining takes place indoors. But it dries for quite a long time - within 12-14 hours. Besides, water stain is able to lift the pile of wood during staining, and this leads to the fact that the wood needs to be sanded after staining.

Of all water stains, acrylic stains are separately distinguished, which are based on acrylic resin. They are more resistant to fading, do not wash out with water and lift wood fibers much less. However, they have one drawback - a high price.

2. Alcohol stain is a solution of various aniline dyes in alcohol (denatured alcohol). After applying the stain, the colorants penetrate into the texture of the wood, and the alcohol evaporates. This type of stain dries quickly enough - in 15-20 minutes. That is why it must be applied very quickly to prevent stains and washouts. Uniform staining with alcohol stain is achieved by using an airbrush to spray it.

3. Nitromordant- stain made on the basis of solvents. According to the principle of action, it is similar to alcohol stain. It is applied quickly and with a sprayer.

4. Oil stain- a mixture of dyes and oil (most often linseed). This type of stain is applied easily and evenly. Oil stain does not pick up fibres. The colorants of the oil stain have a high lightfastness, which allows the surface to long years retain its brightness and original appearance. Oil stain can be applied with a spray gun, a wide brush or rags. Oil stain dries in 2-4 hours.

Choice of stain color.

Each stain color has its own code that corresponds to international classification, and a name that matches the type of wood, the color of which is copied by the stain. For example, stain "Chestnut", " Walnut" or "Cherry". But it is very short-sighted to choose a stain only by the name or picture on the label, as an unexpected result may turn out. There are special reasons for this:

1. If stains of the same color and cipher were made by different manufacturers, then they can have different shades. For example, the water stain "Larch" by the manufacturer "Tsaritsyno paints" has a pinkish-brown tint, and the "Larch" produced by "Novbytchim" has a pale yellow color. In various stores there are samples that have been painted with different stains. Such samples will convey the color of the stain much more accurately than the picture on the label.

2. The natural color, structure and density of wood can also affect the result. staining with stain. For example, stain on mahogany will look much darker than on maple (if the stain used was the same tone). This is because mahogany wood has a darker hue than maple wood.

The same test with pine and maple samples will demonstrate that pine wood stains faster and more intensely. Pine has a softer and more porous wood, while maple is denser and harder. For this reason, it is easier for dyes to penetrate pine wood.

The texture of the wood also affects the degree of staining. Oak has a pronounced structure, so it quickly darkens with stain, as the coloring substances penetrate into the recesses of the veins. But the main part of the oak wood, which is outside the veins, is painted more slowly and not so brightly.

Mortar application methods.

To paint wood stain, you can use an airbrush (nozzle size 1.5 mm or less), a wide brush (width 100 mm), a foam swab or rags. For processing a large area, it is better to use an airbrush. It is also used when working with nitrimorils and alcohol stains, as they dry very quickly, and when using brushes or swabs, stains appear on the surface of the wood.

Brushes, swabs and rags are great for working with water and oil stains. Natural bristle brushes are suitable for oil stains, and with synthetic bristles - for water. The bristles of the brush should be strong and should not leave behind hairs on the surface of the wood.

If fabrics or tampons are used to work with the stain, then they should be cotton or foam rubber. They should not leave behind pile and threads that can remain on the painted surface and, thereby, reduce the quality of the coating.

Preparing for applying the stain: making a color sample.

After stain purchases, but before the start of the staining itself, it would be useful to make a color test. Its need is that it will help to understand whether it is suitable this stain for the surface. In addition, the test will allow you to find out what color will turn out in the end, and will help determine the number of layers of application.

To make a color test, you will need a board treated in the same way as the wood that is to be painted. Undoubtedly, the wood species of the sample must match the main surface.

The plank is covered with one layer of stain. After drying, a second layer is applied to 2/3 of the sample. The third layer is applied to 1/3 of the plank. After the stain has dried, the plank is varnished in two layers. Comparing the brightness of the coloring of each part of the sample board, the optimal number of layers for a particular surface is chosen.

In order to choose the best option, you need to do a few test stains. Several boards are painted with different stains and then the final choice is made.

Wood treatment before staining.

Before applying the stain, the wood must be prepared. There are several processing steps:

1. First you need to remove the old coating, if any. This is done by scraping and sanding the boards. This process will not only remove the old coating, but also level the wooden surface.

2. Clean the surface from grease and oil stains. To do this, wipe the problem areas with a rag that has been dipped in white spirit or gasoline.

3. conifers wood must be deresined before staining with stain. It is necessary to remove resin from the wood structure, which may interfere with stain absorbency. There are several types of solutions for deresining:

Dissolve 50 g of potassium carbonate and 60 g of soda ash in 1 liter of water heated to 60 degrees.

Dissolve 50 g of caustic soda in 1 liter of warm water. Treat the surface with the resulting soda solution.

Mix 750 ml of distilled water with 250 g of acetone.

Any of these solutions must be applied to the surface of the wood in several layers. After 30 minutes, wipe the wood with a cotton cloth and rinse with warm water.

Stages of staining a wooden surface with wood stain.

If a wooden surface properly prepared for staining, the procedure for applying the stain will be quite simple. It is carried out in the following steps:

1. First, the stain needs to be slightly warmed up to increase its degree of penetration into the wood.

2. A brush, rag or swab is moistened in the stain. In no case do not allow strong moisture, as streaks may appear and the coloring will become uneven. If a sprayer is used, then the stain is poured into the tank.

3. The stain is applied along the wood fibers. It is necessary to apply the stain quickly and without interruption to avoid staining. If streaks appear, then the surface must be wiped with a cloth, collecting excess liquid along the fibers. Then the surface is left until the stain is completely dry.

4. Similarly, several more layers of stain are applied in order to obtain the desired shade (usually 2-3 layers).

5. Then surface, stained, varnished in several layers. Each intermediate layer is sanded with fine-grained sanding paper.