Fir belongs to the coniferous trees of the Pine family. In the wild, it can be found in various regions of the Northern Hemisphere, from temperate to tropical. The natural habitat of fir is quite diverse.

Most often it can be found in coniferous forests, but can also grow in both mixed and deciduous varieties. In this article you will learn everything you need to know about fir when growing on summer cottage.

Did you know? The name of this plant has German roots. Russian name derived from the German word Fichte (spruce).

Fir: plant description

The fir genus is far from the most numerous; descriptions of about 50 species can be found in the literature. Fir comes in the form of trees, the height of which can reach 80 m, and shrubs, which are no higher than 50 cm.

The plant has a powerful, tap root system. Although fir belongs to evergreens, it cannot boast of good resistance to frost. In addition, it does not tolerate dry air, as well as smoke and gas.

The bark of a young fir is smooth and thin; with age it becomes thicker and cracks. Characteristics of fir cannot do without describing the crown, which has a cone-shaped shape and starts right from the base of the trunk. The branches of this plant are arranged horizontally and ringed.

Fir needles are soft, entire, tapering at the base. Unlike many other conifers, a dirty red tint does not appear on fir needles in winter, and two white stripes can be seen at the bottom of each needle.

Female cones of fir are cylindrical or ovoid. Male specimens look like earrings made of cones. Fir can grow from seeds, but this process is too labor-intensive and time-consuming; most often this plant is grown using cuttings.

Did you know? Fir cones stick up, while other conifers have them hanging down.

Pollination occurs with the help of wind. Fir in cultivation can live up to three hundred years in one place. Next we will look at how to grow this plant on your site.

How to choose a location for a fir

Fir is not a capricious plant; every gardener can grow it. Mature plant is not afraid of winds, but in younger trees the roots do not go so deep, and a strong wind can tear the plant out of the ground. Therefore, it is worth protecting the plant from strong winds.

It is best to plant in the spring, in April, but fir can also be planted in the first half of autumn.

Lighting for fir

Strong sun can damage the plant, so partial shade is best for fir. Planting can be done either in groups or individually.

Is fir demanding on soil?

For fir there are no special requirements to the soil, but it is better to choose fertile ones. The only thing that is not suitable for the soil is stagnant water.

Important!Although fir loves moisture, its stagnation will have a bad effect on the development of the plant, so the soil must be well-drained.

How to plant a fir tree in a summer cottage

Anyone can plant a fir tree in their summer cottage; there is nothing difficult about it.

Preparing the planting hole

Before planting a fir, you need to take care of the planting hole. Preparations must begin a couple of weeks before planting. The dimensions of the hole should be approximately 60x60x60 cm, but these figures may be different, depending on the size of the roots of the seedling.

To prepare the soil itself, you need to add:

• 1 part peat;
• 3 parts humus;
• 1 part sand;
• 2 parts clay;
• 250 g nitrophoska;
• 10 kg sawdust.

Fir seedling planting scheme

The roots of the seedling are lowered into the hole so that the root collar is level with the surface of the area.

Before planting, the roots of the seedling must be straightened. After planting, the soil is thoroughly compacted, and then the plant must be watered.

To grow fir alleys, the distance between seedlings should be 4-5 m; when planting in groups, seedlings can be placed closer (about 3 m for loose groups and 2-2.5 m for dense groups).

How to care for fir in the country

Fir care is simple recommendations. It won't take much of your time, and in return you will get a beautiful tree or shrub.

How to water a fir

Fir is absolutely not demanding when it comes to watering, with the exception of moisture-loving varieties. They require watering several times a season if the weather is dry. For the rest of the species, natural precipitation will be enough; they will not need artificial watering.

Feeding fir

Feeding should begin no earlier than 2-3 years after planting. This procedure is carried out in the spring; 100-125 g of Kemira-universal are added to the tree trunk circle as fertilizer.

Soil care

For normal development of seedlings, do not forget to regularly remove weeds and loosen the soil. The depth of loosening should not exceed 9-12 cm. It will also be useful to mulch the soil around the tree trunk. To do this, use peat, wood chips or sawdust, which are laid out in a layer of 6-8 cm.

Important! In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the mulch does not lie close to the root collar.

Fir pruning: how to shape the tree crown

The fir itself has a strict crown shape, but sometimes it may require additional shaping. All these procedures are carried out in the spring, before the sap begins to flow. IN mandatory Severely damaged and dry branches are removed.

Fir propagation

Reproduction of this plant is not a problem, since fir can be grown from a twig. The cuttings must have an apical bud; annuals are best suited for planting. During the first 10 years, fir grows slowly, but then the process accelerates.

The breed is unpretentious and does not require complex care, but right choice growing location significantly improves the appearance of the plant. In spring, fir planting must be carried out in compliance with basic agrotechnical recommendations. Pay special attention to the seedling for the first 2-3 years, then care can be reduced to a minimum.

Choosing a landing site

A plot of land with suitable conditions for culture is a guarantee successful cultivation fir trees The plant feels good near a reservoir, but the soil should not be over-moistened or constantly swamped. This perennial has a powerful root system that goes deep, so close passage groundwater will lead to rotting and death of the tree. You can plant a seedling in an orchard, on alpine slide(decorative varieties), take them to the dacha. The main thing is to choose the right place so that you don’t have to replant.

Fir characteristics:

• shade-tolerant;
• winter-hardy;
• moisture-loving;
• a young tree requires protection from strong winds and drafts;
• does not tolerate gas pollution and smoke in large cities;
• prefers drained, fertile soils.

Note! Spring sun and dry air damage the shoots, but when favorable conditions are created, the damaged crown is restored.

Lighting for fir

The breed grows in the wild in shady forests, so it thrives in partial shade and shade. When planting a single plant, it should be taken into account that straight sun rays may cause pine needle burns. At the same time, an open area where there is the possibility of slight shading of young seedlings will allow the fir to develop well, promote rapid growth, and accelerate seed production. In the forest, seed material is formed after 60-70 years, with single plantings after 30 years.

The breed grows in the wild in shady forests, so it thrives in partial shade and shade.

Is fir demanding on soil?

The culture needs loose, nutritious, slightly acidic soil that allows air and moisture to pass through well. The soil must have a sufficient amount of essential nutrients, so it must be fertilized before planting. Heavy clay soil and close groundwater flow require a drainage layer. When growing on sandstone, it is recommended to coat the bottom of the pit with clay.

How to plant a fir

First of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, choose planting material. It is advisable to purchase fir seedlings in specialized stores. Specimens grown in containers must be more than 4 years old. By carefully pulling the trunk, the seedling should come out of the container along with a lump of earth. If a tree is removed with its root system exposed, there is no point in purchasing it; it will not take root. This happens when unscrupulous sellers dug it out of the forest or did not follow the rules of care.

Seedlings grown in containers must be more than 4 years old.

The breed does well in open ground. Some ornamental varieties may require special conditions. Fir planting in spring takes place in April. It is advisable to choose this particular time of year so that the plant has time to adapt to its new location before winter. Fir gets used to it very slowly, taking root only in the second year. For container seedlings with protected roots, there are no special restrictions for planting by time of year, with the exception of soil frozen in winter.

It is advisable to carry out the procedure on a cloudy day. The planting pit is prepared in 15-30 days. After filling it with the nutrient mixture, you need to wait for the soil to settle and water it abundantly. The crop does not tolerate drying out of the soil, so the soil should always be slightly moist, but not retain water.

Having chosen a suitable place for the fir, you need to dig a hole 60-70 cm deep and 60 cm wide. The parameters of the hole depend on the need to add a drainage layer and the height of the earthen ball. The exact dimensions are calculated so that about 20 cm remains around the closed root system, which must subsequently be filled with fertile soil.

Having chosen a suitable place for the fir, you need to dig a hole 60-70 cm deep and 60 cm wide.

It is recommended to loosen the bottom of the pit, add drainage or clay depending on the structure, and cover it with a layer of prepared soil. The soil mixture can be prepared by mixing loam, humus (compost), peat, river sand in a ratio of 2:3:1:1. To improve the structure, additionally add sawdust and nitrophoska as fertilizer. If the additive is applied during planting, the seedling does not require other feedings for the next 2-3 years.

Sapling planting scheme

Make a depression under the earthen clump of fir in the prepared hole so that the root collar of the seedling remains flush with the surface of the earth. Excessive deepening is dangerous due to decay. The roots should not be bent. Compact the soil a little, make a small circle around the trunk so that the water does not spread. Water with settled water by sprinkling, mulch the surface with fallen pine needles, straw, sawdust, spruce branches, and dry humus. Mulch will prevent rapid evaporation of moisture, protect against the formation of a hard earthen crust and the growth of weeds. Place a support nearby and tie up the seedling, because until the plant takes root, a strong wind can turn it out of the ground along with the roots.

Mulch will prevent rapid evaporation of moisture, protect against the formation of a hard earthen crust and the growth of weeds.

• alleys - 4-5 m between seedlings;
• group plantings – 3-3.5 m;
• hedges - up to 2.5 m.

Care after landing

Growing fir is considered simple because the plant does not require special care. For the first 2-3 years it needs to be watered, protected from frost, and tied up. An adult tree should be fertilized once a year. The culture gives a small annual increase, so worry about what is missing nutrients, not worth it.

Fir care involves preventive measures against uninvited guests. If favorable conditions are created for the plant, then the risk of infection or damage by pests is very small. Improper planting, lack of drainage in heavy soil, waterlogging or drying out of the soil lead to the development of fusarium, brown scute, and rust. Creating an optimal growing environment, removing damaged branches, and treating with biological products will help save the fir.

Improper planting and care lead to the development of plant diseases.

Dangerous pests include aphids, spruce moths, spider mites, fir and pine moths, leaf rollers, cone moths, wireworms, and bark beetles. To eliminate them, spraying with insecticides and biological preparations, catching adult individuals using traps, green manure, and treatment with compositions according to folk recipes are used.

The advantage of planting in spring is that the plant has time to adapt to new growing conditions by winter and is less susceptible to freezing. The culture is frost-resistant, but young seedlings require additional protection. The tree trunk circle should be mulched with peat, pine needles, straw, sawdust, and the tree itself should be covered with spruce branches. It is not recommended to use oilcloth, because without air access the branches will become moldy and begin to rot.

Note! Mulch should not cover the root collar.

Watering

At first, it is recommended to moisten the fir once a week. An adult, rooted plant requires additional watering only in dry weather. A tree growing in an open area needs the procedure more often, since direct sunlight quickly dries out the soil, and for this species this is detrimental. In the fall, before a strong cold snap, it is recommended to carry out moisture-recharging watering of spruce plantings. Burning of needles from the bright spring sun often occurs due to lack of moisture; the plant is not able to withstand the unfavorable factor. In the absence of mulch, it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm after each watering. Carry out the procedure carefully; some varieties of coniferous crops develop superficial root system.

A tree growing in an open area needs watering more often, since direct sunlight quickly dries out the soil.

Note! Young seedlings like to be watered by sprinkling.

Top dressing

It is carried out 2-3 years after planting. The optimal time is spring (late April - early May). Use universal complex additives as fertilizer. In the fall, add granular superphosphate and potassium salt when digging. From organic matter, it is recommended to use vermicompost and rotted compost. In spring, it is advisable to use liquid fertilizers, which will reach the root system faster. Water them along the tree trunk, and not at the root.

Soil care

The crop requires loosening and weed removal. If necessary, replant the fir, since the plant will not take root under constant exposure to unfavorable factors. In some cases, instead of fertilizing and transferring to a new place, it is recommended to remove the surface layer of soil by 10-15 cm and replace it with a fertile soil mixture with soil from under spruce trees.

Pruning and crown formation

These procedures are additional, since the culture does not need them. Fir pruning is carried out at any time of the year except winter in order to remove damaged shoots - burned, infected with pests or diseases, dried out, frozen. Of the 2 intersecting shoots, the strongest or growing in the desired direction remains. The plant regenerates slowly, unlike fruit trees, therefore, branches must be removed carefully, if indicated.

Fir pruning is carried out at any time of the year except winter in order to remove damaged shoots.

The breed is characterized by decorativeness; the crown is formed only if the gardener wishes to give the fir a fancy shape or trim an overgrown plant. The procedure should be postponed until the dormant state - late winter or early autumn. In varieties with rope-like sharp needles, the cut should be made 1 cm above the bud. The topmost bud will become the new top and sprout. This pruning stimulates the growth of needles below the buds. For varieties with flat needles, trimming should slightly limit the outer growth in order to increase the fullness of the crown.

How to propagate fir

There are 3 main methods - sowing seeds, cuttings and using layering. This coniferous perennial is characterized by monoecy - female and male cones ripen on the same tree. You can grow fir only from the first ones. Suitable seeds are distinguished by the presence of a small wing. The difficulty of such propagation lies in the fact that only seed material from mature plants can be used for planting, and their cones are located very high. At the same time, the seeds crack and spill out while still on the branch.

Suitable seeds are distinguished by the presence of a small wing.

If you manage to find an unripe cone, it should be left to dry at room temperature. When the seeds fall out, begin stratification - keep them moist in the refrigerator for about 2-3 months. It is recommended to sow in mid-April directly into open ground or a separate container with good drainage. Do not pick to avoid damaging the delicate root system.

To propagate fir by cuttings, from the upper part of the crown of a tree 4-8 years old, pick a branch 5-8 cm long with an apical bud and heel. This can be done in April, June, August, September or October. Plant green cuttings immediately, and store lignified ones until spring at a temperature of 1-5°C and high humidity. Before the procedure, treat with fungicides, then plant, creating greenhouse conditions using glass or film. When propagated from a twig, only 1/2-2/3 survives, so you need to use several cuttings.

To propagate fir by cuttings, from the upper part of the crown of a tree 4-8 years old, pick a branch 5-8 cm long with an apical bud and heel.

Layers are obtained when the lower shoots mother tree touch the ground and produce roots. This process takes 1-2 years. If desired, the gardener can grow cuttings himself. The disadvantage of this method is that the shape of the new fir can be very different from the mother fir. It is used when you want to grow unusual plant or a bonsai tree.

If there is additional free space at the dacha or site that is not occupied for utilitarian needs, then such a beautiful plant as fir will greatly decorate it (both that very notorious “place” and the entire site as a whole).

Despite the fact that fir and fir oil, based on their beneficial properties, are leaders in frequency of use in recipes traditional medicine, planting a fir on the site will most likely bring only aesthetic pleasure. I don’t think anyone needs to brew its needles against scurvy. modern Russia, (with all its disadvantages in the field of medicine) still will not arise, and fir oil in pharmacies is not that expensive. We ourselves, having gone through a bunch of things for the sauna essential oils, now we only use fir.

The main advantage of fir for use in landscape design of a site is that the needles do not fall off for a long time, which do not become “rusty”, that is, they do not turn red. The crown of the fir is soft and dense, easily able to withstand shaping.

Fir (lat. Aies) belongs to the Pine family (Pinaceae), the genus includes about 50 species common in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere. Most often used as holiday trees Nordmann fir, noble and balsam. Christmas wreaths and garlands are made from fir branches.

A neat, clearly defined crown, most often of small diameter, dense branches located almost from the very base of the trunk, and shiny dark green needles make fir trees attractive and decorative.

These trees have long been used for park plantings, mainly in suburban areas, since city air has a bad effect on the appearance of coniferous beauties.

Strict firs are good along the front alley. They look great in group plantings on their own or in combination with birch, maple, and rowan trees. Fir trees make excellent hedges along the edges of the site. A single fir can decorate a lawn or home area. Dwarf forms look great in.

In plantings, firs coexist well with other large conifers (spruce, pine, larch), and their dwarf forms– with low fellows, ground cover flowering perennials, heathers, eriks, .

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Biological properties and features

Firs are large, 10-80 m tall coniferous trees. The crown starts almost from the ground and has a neat conical shape. The trunk is 0.5-4 m in diameter, covered with smooth gray bark, although there are species in which the bark is rough, riddled with deep cracks. The root system is taprooted; most fir trees go deep into the soil. The needles are soft, flat, usually with a rounded tip. The upper side of the needles is dark green, shiny, the lower side is matte, with two white stripes on the sides of the midrib.

Firs are monoecious plants; pollen and seed cones are found on the same specimens. Seed cones cylindrical, elongated, directed upwards, not downward (like, for example, spruce), so a fir that has reached reproductive age even without decorations looks like a wonderful Christmas tree with candles on the upper branches.

Another feature of fir cones is that when ripe, they fall apart into separate scales, releasing the seeds, while the central core remains on the branch. The seeds are small, winged, and dispersed by the wind.

Fir: varieties and types

The most commonly used are the following types and their garden forms.

Balsam fir (Abies bahamea) is the most common species of the genus in North America. More resistant to waterlogging than other fir trees. Lives up to 150-200 years. Reaches 15-25 m in height.

The root system, unlike other species of the genus, does not lie too deep, so strong winds can knock down trees. Frost-resistant, characterized by fairly rapid growth. The first cones appear at the age of 20-30 years.

Applicable for group and single landings. The species is unsuitable for cultivation in the southern regions, where it suffers from lack of soil moisture and dry air.

There are a number decorative forms, including dwarf ('Hudsonia, 'Nana'), with bluish needles ('Glauca'), with white-colored needles at the ends ('Argentea'), with yellow-variegated needles ('Variegata'), columnar ('Columnahs') , creeping ('Prostrata).

Korean fir (Abies koreana) forms mountain forests in the southern regions of the Korean Peninsula. Tree up to 15 m tall, growing very slowly in the first years of life.

Before ripening, the cones become bright, blue, sometimes with a purple tint, and they are formed by 15-year-old specimens.

It is distinguished by winter hardiness and decorativeness (not too large in size, bright cones). There are decorative forms: with dark purple cones ('Blue Standard'), slow growing, with short needles and small cones (Brevifolia), low-growing, with a round dense crown and silver needles ('Silberzwerg'), dwarf with a spreading flat crown (' Piccolo').

Caucasian fir, or Nordmann fir (Abies nordmanniana), forms forests in the western part of the Caucasus Mountains and in Turkey. Reaches a height of 60 m with a trunk diameter of 2 m. The crown is narrow, cone-shaped. The species is characterized by rapid growth and longevity (lives up to 500 years). Winter hardiness is low, even in adulthood; there are a number of decorative forms (‘Pendula, ‘Aurea’, ‘Albo-spicata’, ‘Gtauca’).

Common fir (Abies concolor) is native to the mountainous regions of the southwestern United States and northern Mexico. Reaches a height of 40-60 m, the needles have a bluish tint. It grows quickly and lives up to 350 years. It is not afraid of strong winds and air smoke, it is very drought and frost resistant. Quite photophilous.

There are decorative forms: compact tree with long blue-white needles (‘Violacea’), dwarf tree with long blue needles (‘Compacta Glauca’).

Proper planting of fir

Firs are unpretentious. They tolerate shading quite well, especially in the first years of life, when partial shade is almost a mandatory condition for growing. Grown-up specimens develop better in full sunlight. Most types of fir have a deep root system and, therefore, high wind resistance.

Firs do not tolerate dry air and pollution from smoke and gaseous impurities well, so they are not very often found in city parks.

It is best to plant these plants in April or in the second half of August - September. 5-10 year old seedlings have the highest survival rate. On heavy soils with high groundwater levels, drainage is provided. A 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone or broken brick is laid at the bottom of the planting pit.

Depending on the size of the earthen ball on the roots. When planting, remember that the root collar must remain level with the soil surface. The width of the pit is at least half a meter, maybe a little more (60-70 cm).

For planting, it is useful to prepare a soil mixture consisting of: clay, humus (or leaf soil), peat, sand (2:3:1:1), also add complex mineral fertilizer, and on heavy soils when installing drainage - up to 10 kg of sawdust. The recommended distance between fir trees in alley plantings is 4-5 m, in loose groups - 3-3.5 m, in dense groups - up to 2.5 m.

How to shape a fir crown

In the spring, the crown of these conifers is cleaned, removing dry and severely damaged branches. Fir trees have a neat, strict crown shape, but if suddenly for some reason additional formation is required, it is carried out early spring, before the start of sap flow. Sometimes crown formation is needed not only large trees, but also dwarf and creeping cultivars.

Most types and decorative forms of fir are successfully grown without any shelter for the winter. However, it should be remembered that young specimens in the first year after planting are more vulnerable to low temperatures. Usually they are covered with spruce branches, which protects them from spring matinees and sunburn, especially strong when snow melts. It is useful to fall asleep for the winter tree trunk circles young plants with dry leaves or mulch with peat.

IN lately Few people have not heard of such a coniferous tree as fir. Its main geographical distribution is cedar and mixed forests, but thanks to medicinal properties and its beautiful appearance, fir has also found use in decoration garden plots. What is so good about fir and why has it gained such popularity?

Fir: what is it and how is it different from spruce?

Fir is an evergreen tree with a dense crown of a narrow conical shape. The branches often descend all the way to the ground, which allows the fir to use one of its reproduction features: when the branches come into contact with the ground, the latter take root in the soil and take root, which in turn makes it possible for a separate fir to sprout.

Firs are often confused with spruce, especially from afar. This does not apply to ornamental varieties that have easy recognizable look. However, there are a few major differences between the two trees:

• The first difference is the needles. Spruce needles are quite prickly. While fir has the opposite, its needles are soft and velvety.

• The second distinctive feature is the appearance and location of the cones. In spruce they hang on branches and are directed straight down, while in fir they grow vertically.
• Fir exudes a softer and more pleasant smell.
• Fir is better suited for planting on site because it has a regular symmetrical shape and dense structure, which allows it to be used as windproof and decorative plantings.

Recently, fir has successfully replaced spruce as a New Year's holiday tree. Despite the fact that in the CIS countries they still prefer fir trees, many Europeans are switching to more beautiful and sophisticated fir, since, unlike the first, fir needles do not fall off even when completely dry.

The most common varieties of fir

This genus of conifers has about 50 varieties, but it is worth considering and characterizing those varieties that have gained the most popularity:

• Siberian fir: is the most common and frequently encountered species. It is distinguished by high frost resistance, but at the same time it is quite thermophilic and demanding of conditions. It is especially valued for its decorative properties, since in spring the color of the cones acquires a combination of purple and bright yellow shades.
• White fir. It got its name from the color of the needles: two white stripes run along the entire length of the green leaf. This color is great for decoration. Since this variety is sensitive to air and soil pollution, in terms of distribution it is inferior to Siberian and Caucasian varieties. Moreover, at temperatures below -25°C the rootstock freezes, so this variety is not suitable for most regions.

• Monochrome fir. Useful variety, which is characterized by insensitivity to conditions, including urban pollution. In addition, it has a great variety decorative varieties. She found hers wide application in gardening and landscape design.
• Dwarf fir. It is one of the most beloved by gardeners, since it is preferable to plant it in small areas. Such firs are characterized by slow growth and attractive appearance, so it is good to use for decorating flower beds.
• Caucasian fir, which is also called Nordmann fir, is most popular among Europeans during the Christmas period as a festive tree for decoration. According to legend, it was from the wood of this fir that the famous Trojan Horse was built.

How to plant fir trees?

The process itself is not labor-intensive and does not require special knowledge. All you need to do is follow practical advice and remember about the peculiarities of the conditions provided to the seedlings. It is preferable to divide the work into several stages:

• Preparing for landing. Under the seedling, it is necessary to dig a hole no more than 80 cm deep in advance, two weeks before planting. The diameter of the hole must correspond to the size of the root system of the seedling.
• The fir, the photo of which is presented below, demonstrates bad example placement. The distance between trees should be sufficient for free growth.

• A nutrient mixture for seedlings is prepared, consisting of the following components:
  • two parts clay soil,
  • three parts leaf soil or humus,
  • one part peat
  • one part washed fine sand.
• After the mixture has been prepared, it is worth adding another 10 kg to it sawdust and 200 g of nitrogen fertilizers.
• At the bottom of the planting holes, especially if the land is characterized by a high groundwater level, it is necessary to lay a layer of broken brick or crushed stone of different fractions, at least 20 cm thick.
• The bottom of the hole is loosened to a depth of 15 cm and weeded in advance to clear the ground of weeds and natural debris.
• It is recommended to plant fir trees either in early spring, in April, or in autumn, during September. The best choice will be those seedlings that are at least 5 years old, since almost all varieties of fir are characterized by slow growth. When planting, it is important to pay attention to the soil: it must have sufficient moisture. It is advisable that work on planting fir trees on the site be carried out on a warm, cloudy day, up to and including carrying out work during rain.
• When a hole of the appropriate size has been dug, the seedling is placed on a nutrient mixture sprinkled with earth. Fir roots are located horizontally, with the root collar located at the depth of the ground level.

• It is advisable to place fir seedlings at a distance of at least three meters, in case of planting decorative species it makes sense to place them in checkerboard pattern. It is important to know that almost all varieties of fir prefer well-moistened soil in the form of loam, which, in addition, must be promptly provided with fertilizing and fertilizers. In addition, firs have a developed root system, which ensures their wind resistance.

As you can see, planting a fir is quite simple and is not much different from similar actions with other trees. However, it is also important to provide proper care so that the seedling is provided with everything it needs during its development.

Important: fir seeds are not suitable for propagation, since it is extremely difficult to germinate them at home. Therefore, only seedlings are used.

Growing and caring for fir

A useful quality of fir is its undemanding need for careful care. However, this does not mean that simple periodic watering is enough for good seedling growth. It is important to know about some of the subtleties of providing proper care so that the fir lives a long life.

• The planting site should be the first and last, since almost all varieties of this coniferous tree do not tolerate transplantation.
• Fir seedlings need to be watered once every two weeks, and it is advisable to use a watering method such as sprinkling. It means irrigating the land through a system of nozzles through which water is evenly sprayed over the surrounding area.
• The soil near the trunk of the seedling must be loosened in a timely manner to a depth of 10 cm to prevent the growth of weeds.

• It makes sense to periodically cover the soil surface near the fir seedling with sawdust, while preventing the root collar from clogging.
• In the spring, most optimally in April, fertilizing the fir with mineral fertilizers. As a rule, it is recommended to do this at least once a year. If necessary, it makes sense to fertilize a second time no earlier than September.

Fir, which will take many years to grow, will be a useful acquisition for a summer cottage. Considering their lifespan, which reaches 700 years in some varieties, you should be sure that the results of good work will be visible to subsequent generations.

Winter care requirements

In addition to these steps, the fir must be prepared for wintering. Despite the fact that many varieties of this coniferous tree are frost-resistant, it makes sense to take care of protecting the young growth to avoid further drying out during frosts. A problem often arises when the needles are exposed to bright sunlight, which evaporates moisture. At the same time, cold weather has a detrimental effect on the root system. All of the above can lead to burning of the needles in the spring, and to counteract this, it is advisable to cover the young plantings with protective fabric or spruce branches. Dense polyethylene is also suitable for this purpose.

Pest Control Measures

• Winged aphid. The main sign of its appearance is the occurrence white plaque, characteristic for its fluffiness. If the affected areas have a small area, then it is enough to trim them. If the infection has gone deeper, it is recommended to treat the needles with chemicals of the insecticide class.
• The false scale insect is another common pest. characteristic feature which serves as the appearance of shiny marks on the needles and their further shedding. Some areas will also change color - from lush green to brown. As in the case of aphids, it is necessary to use preparations to treat the needles. Also, gardeners recommend wearing protective belts made of burlap, soaked in so-called caterpillar glue, which will attract the pest larvae.
• Spider mites pose one of the biggest dangers. When it appears, the fir needles change color and subsequently fall off. In addition, the web covers the surface of the branches - which immediately becomes noticeable. The first method of counteracting the appearance of mites is timely moistening of the fir, since mites appear in dry climates and insufficient treatment. Dandelion tincture is also effective remedy fight and, importantly, does not contain any chemical components that can cause harm. It’s easy to prepare this infusion: just chop 300 g of leaves and pour 10 liters warm water, after which the infusion is kept for three hours. Next, you need to treat the fir needles with the resulting product.
• Caterpillars are another frequent visitor. Their presence is indicated by the presence of mucus on fir branches. The phenomenon is unpleasant, but fortunately, they can be easily overcome with the help of vegetable infusions. For example, onion or tomato. Onion is one of the easiest to prepare: for 1 liter of water use 10 g of finely chopped onion. The infusion must be kept for 7 hours, after which processing can begin. An infusion of tomatoes will require more careful preparation and the presence of 4 kg of roots and leaves of the specified vegetable crop, which must be filled with water and boiled for 30 minutes over low heat. After which the resulting brew is filtered and diluted with fresh water in a ratio of three parts water to one part infusion. A useful addition would be to use 40 g of liquid soap in it.

In addition, it is climatic conditions, sudden changes in hot and humid weather, as well as depleted soil that cause harm to fir. Therefore, it is important to timely treat the soil and young growth with useful organic additives.

The use of fir and its beneficial properties

The fir plant is valuable not only decorative properties. Popular rumor ascribes to it unusually wide properties: from strengthening the body with the help of tinctures to treating pathologies. If you believe this, then it turns out that fir can correct almost all health problems. And despite the obvious advertising effect, experts have confirmed that fir infusions and oils can have a strong therapeutic effect to inflammatory processes. In addition, fir is recommended for the following problems:

• cough,
• diphtheriasis,
• colds, including different shapes flu,
• inflammation of the gums,
• rheumatism.
• prostatitis,
• external skin problems,
• wound treatment and much more.

As you can see, fir represents not only a valuable decorative, but also a very useful plant, widely known for its healing properties.

Fir is considered to have presentable green needles that do not change color throughout the season. It takes root quickly and does not require much attention. With a fir, you don’t need to worry about planting and caring for any suburban area becomes more solid and individual.

You can purchase planting material both in specialized stores and in local nurseries. Before purchasing, you should find out about the varieties that do best in your region. The best option for beginners - purchasing low-growing or medium-growing winter-hardy fir. Beginning summer residents should not take risks with the purchase of rare ornamental varieties with a low level of frost resistance. In this case, there is a high risk of losing the seedling in the first year.

When purchasing, pay attention to several signs:

• seedling at least 4 years old;
• the container is proportionate to the size of the plant - this is a guarantee that it grew in a pot and was not replanted before sale;
• the soil in the container is moist, without mold;
• the color of the needles is even, no brown spots on branches and white flakes at the base of the needles;
• absence of mechanical damage and dry branches;
• The shoots are elastic and bend when tilted.

If you don’t want to waste money in vain, then you will have to immediately abandon the idea of ​​​​buying an ephedra with an open root system. Such a plant rarely survives. Only possible option– purchasing a seedling in the container in which it grew.

If there is a plot of more than 6 acres landscape designers It is recommended to plant 1 large and several dwarfs. Among the massive trees chosen are fir, spruce, berry yew, and pine. The tree is planted at the gate or in the center of a well-groomed lawn. From low-growing species form compositions in the flowerbed, near the borders, near the playground.

Selection of varieties:

Blue Glauka, variegated Variegata and neatly creeping Prostrata take root successfully.

Time and place of landing

The dormant period is a good time to plant acquired conifers. IN middle lane and southern regions of Russia, it is recommended to plant them at the end of September or at the beginning of October. In northern latitudes it is favorable spring planting fir in the country.

Conditions for successful acclimatization:

• soil of moderate humidity, not frozen;
• air temperature not lower than +5 °C, but not higher than +12 °C;
• spring recruits will need partial shade, autumn recruits will need shelter from wind and frost.

Variety Brillant

Fir of any variety quickly takes root in partial shade in a well-drained and fertile place. Open area and the sun are not suitable for her. For seedlings, shady areas are a prerequisite for successful growth. Mature plants will be able to form their typical crown only with sufficient sunlight, so shady areas are not for them. It should be taken into account that fir trees have a powerful root system that extends far into the depths.

On heavy clay soils, the roots form branches and grow superficially, oppressing their neighbors.

To prevent this from growing roots around the perimeter of the site, landing hole drained and enriched with fertile soil.

How to plant purchased fir: step-by-step description of the process

Coniferous plants are presentable, distinguished by their endurance and relative ease of care. To achieve this, you need to plant the purchased tree correctly. Before planting a fir, the place for it is prepared 2 weeks in advance. To do this, dig a planting hole 2 times the volume of the container in which the plant is located.

Distance between conifers:

• when growing medium-sized trees, maintain a distance of 2-3 m;
• the alley group needs more space, so leave 4 m between the seedlings.

Planting fir in several stages:

1. The pit is spilled generously with water (2 buckets). A drainage layer of broken brick or small crushed stone is placed at the bottom to prevent moisture from stagnating at the roots. The drainage height should be 8-10 cm.
2. Prepare a fertile soil mixture consisting of peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 1:1:3. Additionally add granular fertilizer for conifers or 200 g of nitrophoska. Fill the hole halfway with the substrate.
3. After 2 weeks, planting is carried out. The shrub is removed from the container, placed on a mound of soil, its roots are straightened and sprinkled with the remaining substrate. It is important not to destroy the earthen lump removed from the container, since mycorrhiza has already formed on the roots, which is favorable for the growth of the tree.
4. After planting, the soil is compacted and watered generously to avoid the formation of voids.
5. The tree trunk circle is mulched with pieces of bark, cones, and pine needles.
6. If the work is carried out in the fall, then you need to cover the tree with spruce branches before frost. In March, when the weather becomes sunnier, the crown is covered non-woven material to avoid the formation of burns.

In the future, fir care comes down to watering, irrigating the crown at least once a week, and seasonal pruning of old and weakened branches. Fertilizing begins from the 3rd year of growth; fertilizers for conifers are applied 1-2 times per season.

Video about the formation of a young bush.

Organizing the transplantation of an adult fir is more difficult than planting a purchased shrub. In this case, you will have to remove a massive lump of earth without damaging the roots. A year before the planned work, the soil around the tree is bayoneted with a shovel at a distance of 1 m. Over the course of a set time, young roots will grow on the root system, allowing them to successfully establish themselves in a new place in the future. Planted before or after the active growing season (early spring or September) fertile soils. When transplanting into a pre-prepared hole, add soil from the previous place of growth.

Common Pests and Diseases

Fir is a hardy plant, with proper care there are no problems with it. To prevent the death of a young conifer, a novice gardener should consider several recommendations:

1. The tree trunk circle is not loosened; mulching is enough. When loosening the roots, small shoots (capillaries) come off. As a result, the amount of nutrition decreases, and the fir dries out within 1-2 years.
2. Cannot be used as fertilizer fresh manure, bird droppings. Some of the roots are burned from such organic matter.

The causes of diseases are insufficient feeding and poor moisture, mechanical damage to the bark and sudden changes in temperature. Rust is a common disease coniferous trees. As a result of infection, the needles turn brown and the crown thins out. New growths of a rusty color form on the branches. Affected shoots and fallen needles are burned, the sections are covered with resin or varnish, and the fir itself is treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

At improper care fir trees suffer from Hermes (yellow aphid). As a result of the damage, the needles turn yellow and fall off. The drugs Rogora and Antio help prevent pest invasions. The trunks are treated with a solution of insecticides in a ratio of 20 g per 10 liters of water in early spring (late March - early April).

In rare cases, the Siberian silkworm may visit the conifer. It eats needles, young cones and bark, leading to drying out. Caterpillars on branches emerge from laid eggs before buds open; within a couple of months they eat needles, then pupate. In August, butterflies begin to appear to lay new eggs. Treating the crown with any insecticide and biological product helps get rid of the pest. Usually the drug Bi-58 or Clipper is used.

When growing conifers, you need to remember to irrigate the crown in the hot season and preventive treatment necessary medications. Then pests will rarely appear on the site, and caring for the plants will become much easier.