The cost of good seedlings is incomparable with those mental and material expenditures that arise in the event of death or poor growth young plants.

Therefore, before planting trees with your own hands, it is important to learn a few rules regarding which seedlings to choose, when and how to plant pears, cherries and apples on summer cottage.

How to choose seedlings of fruit trees before planting?

So that the trees grow quickly, do not get sick and bear fruit abundantly in the future, you need to buy seedlings in specialized retail outlets or in nurseries. Zoned seedlings that were grown in the same area where they are going to be planted will take root much faster than their counterparts brought from the coastal regions.

What to look for when choosing seedlings of fruit trees for planting

Subsoil water at the summer cottage

• for vigorous trees with long roots, the depth of groundwater in the territory should not exceed 3 meters;

• semi-dwarf plants are planted in the ground, the subsoil waters of which rise no higher than 2.5 m;

• saplings dwarf trees, with a shallow root system, a site with groundwater located at a level higher than 1.5 meters is required.

Soil quality

Choosing a landing site at random is a mistake. Saplings will develop poorly and will enter the fruiting season with a great delay. Talking about addictions fruit plants To soil conditions, then apple trees develop well on sod-podzolic, forest gray and chernozem soils of light composition with a neutral reaction. Pears adore moist, slightly podzolized soils, sandy loam and loam. Cherries are medium to light loams.

Illumination

Fruit trees good lighting vital. The more sun the plants receive, the larger and sweeter its fruits will be. Based on this, seedlings are planted on the southern (less often southwestern) side of the site, in a place protected from the winds.

The area of ​​the land

The area allotted for planting apple trees, pears and cherries is chosen after calculating the sum of the heights of all trees. That is, if different crops with a height of 5 m, 4 m and 3 m grow in the garden, then they need to be planted from each other at a distance of 6-9 m. developing, they will grow not in breadth, but upward, intertwining with branches, interfering, rubbing and shading each other.

Age of tree seedlings

The best option for planting would be a tree that is not yet 2 years old. How to determine the age of a seedling? The absence of twigs on the trunk will help to identify such a seedling. Gardeners do not recommend purchasing plants with branches, overdried roots, with growths on the stem and leaves.

Grafted and self-rooted seedlings

Ask the seller what kind of seedling it is - grafted or rooted! Pears and apple trees must be grafted. Plums and cherries are much less common.

How to tell if a seedling is grafted or not? If the grafting was done by the kidney, then the stem of the seedling will be slightly curved (another sign - look for a noticeable fine on the trunk). There are no signs of vaccination - it means that they are trying to deceive you!

The best option is to buy seedlings in a container or with an earthen lump that completely covers root system... So that the roots (the standard of tree quality) of freshly dug plants do not dry out, they are planted within a couple of days after purchase. Fruit trees they are planted in containers at any time convenient for the summer resident - from late autumn to early spring.

When should you plant a tree?

The timing of planting fruit trees is determined taking into account the biological characteristics of the variety and climatic conditions. Apple trees and pears are planted in two periods: in early autumn and early spring.

Planting trees in spring

Spring planting begins when the last snow melts and ends ten days before bud break. For planting apple, cherry and pear, natural products are used as fertilizers - fresh manure... They fall asleep at the bottom of the pit. When the seedlings get used to it a little (after about a week), growth activators are introduced into the soil.

Planting trees in autumn

The survival of fruit trees planted during the rainy season (biological dormancy of plants) is almost 100%. Loose soil saturated with moisture and relatively warm temperature air contribute to the stable survival of fruit seedlings. Interestingly, when planting plants in the fall before the onset of frost, the seedlings, before hibernating and stop growing, have time to give young roots. The roots in a snowless winter will be protected by a layer of organic matter and mulch. Material prepared for the site www.site

Planting trees in winter

Winter plantings are relevant when it comes to large-sized plants. Young seedlings of fruit trees are not planted in the frozen soil.

Planting trees in summer

In a hot period, extensive evaporation occurs through the leaves. Short roots lack moisture and do not grow. Saplings planted in summer are doomed to perish.

How to plant trees on the site correctly?

Step-by-step instructions for self-planting seedlings - recommendations for beginners

1. Preparing the soil

Bookmark the future orchard starts with preparing the soil. The site is cleared of weeds mechanically or by means of herbicides. Pre-planting cultivation is carried out - they plow deeply and fill the soil with mineral and organic fertilizers.

2. Preparing holes for planting trees

If the planting of fruit trees is planned in the spring, then the soil and pits begin to be prepared in the fall. To do this, a hole is dug under each seedling. square shape a depth of 50-70 cm, with sides from 1 to 1.5 m. Cut branches, old leaves, compost, tops, etc. are laid in the pit. They cover it with earth from above and leave it to rot until spring planting.

For autumn planting, pits are prepared in a month. At the bottom, for good drainage, crushed stone, a layer of broken brick and coarse river sand are placed. Then the planting pit is filled with rotted manure, peat and complex mineral fertilizers by layer-by-layer method. From above, the fertilizer is covered with soil mixed with humus, 5-10 cm thick.

The soil is poured into the pit in the form of a cone.

3. Planting seedlings in prepared soil

After the soil has settled, a stable wooden stake is driven into the center of the pit. Reliable support will prevent the wind from swaying the young plant and will prevent the formation of voids between the soil and roots.

The day before planting, broken branches and roots are removed from the seedlings, they are renewed, slightly pruning to healthy tissue with a pruner.

Planting trees - rule number 1

The root collar of the seedling should be above the soil level. A significant deepening of the plant trunk into the soil leads to decay of the bark and further death.

It is quite easy to determine the root collar on the trunk - this is the border of the transition of the greenish tree bark to milky brown.

When planting, the top of the earthen cone should rest against the base of the trunk. The roots are gently spread along the slope and covered with soil, focusing on the root collar. It should be 5-6 cm higher above the ground surface.

While falling asleep, the chernozem tree is shaken a little so that the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Otherwise, they may dry out.

Near the trunk, the earth is slightly compacted with a foot and watered with a weak stream of water at the rate of 3 buckets per tree. They are waiting for the soil to settle a little. Once again watered and compacted well.

After watering, roots may stick out a little from the ground. They will go underground in a few days.

Planting a tree from a container

Planting a seedling with an earthen clod

Tree care after planting

In the first two years of life, young trees require a lot of attention. Moderate regular watering and feeding, loosening and weed control are important. In dry times, the soil must be thoroughly loosened after each watering or occasional rain.

Trunks mulching cannot be ignored. Rotting mulch (cut grass of cereals) performs several useful functions at once:

• provides good aeration of the root system;

• protects the ground from drying out;

• prevents weeds from germinating;

• protects against soil freezing in winter;

• provides seedlings with organic nutrients;

• prevents the appearance of a soil crust.

Excessively moist soils do not mulch.

For the winter, trees are insulated by tying the trunk with burlap or coniferous branches.

The first pruning of young trees is carried out in the second year of life.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees with your own hands - tips

How to plant an apple tree?

Early-growing varieties of some apple trees can bloom in the first spring. But they are not yet sufficiently developed to form a full-fledged harvest in the fall. Therefore, for good survival, the buds are cut off before they bloom. In the second year (provided that the plant develops without problems) a couple of dozen flowers are left on the tree.

Among the most easily adaptable varieties of apple trees are distinguished: "Moscow Grushovka", "Antonovka ordinary", "Summer striped", "Brusnichnoe", "Dessertnoe Isaeva", "Gift to Grafsky", "Cinnamon new". Good varieties: "Kitayka Kerr", "Arkadik", "Oval", "Medunitsa" and "Candy".

How to plant a pear?

Most of the types of pears known to summer residents do not show special requirements to exposure and soil composition. But they take root and grow better pear trees on humus-rich, loose soils and well-lit areas. Young plants do not tolerate drought. In the early years, they need to be watered abundantly and often. Pears begin to bear fruit at the age of 3-8 years.

As a result of hybridization of species, specialists in the field of breeding have bred a huge number of interesting varieties. Among the popular ones are: "Pear Lyubimitsa Klappa", "Pear Lada", "Pear Nectar", "Cathedral", "Allegro", "Dibrovskaya", "Beauty Chernenko".

How to plant cherries?

The fruiting of cherries largely depends on the planting site on the site. The wrong choice leads to poor growth and poor yields. The cherry root system, located close to the surface, is sensitive to drought. Therefore, loosening after watering is done with extreme caution.

The gardens of our country are dominated by local winter-hardy varieties: Oktava, Crimson, Kent, Shubinka, Rossoshanskaya black, Rusinka, Polevka, Molodezhnaya, Malinovka, Prima , "Turgenevka", "Lyubskaya", "Zhukovskaya", "Generous".

Do-it-yourself tree planting - video

How to grow a tree from a seed?

Well-ripened seeds are washed and soaked in a stimulating solution for three days (while the water is changed daily). In the fall, they are planted immediately. For planting in the spring, they are stored in freezer for the purpose of stratification.

Please note that trees grown with your own hands from seeds grow very tall. Indeed, unlike cultivated fruit breeds, which are offered by all nurseries, they are not initially grafted onto a dwarf rootstock.

Autumn - optimal time planting seedlings with an open root system or with a bare root. Planting time without reference to climatic zones - from the moment the foliage falls naturally to the period of freezing of the soil. Having bought seedlings with foliage, immediately tear off all the leaves from it to reduce the loss of moisture through them and dry out the seedling itself.

In autumn, well-frost-resistant varieties of apple trees, seedlings of pears, cherries, currant bushes, gooseberries, raspberries. The root system does not have a dormant period, and by the spring the seedlings will have time to take root. If you didn't manage to plant the seedlings before the frost, send them to the basement, packing the roots in a plastic bag with a small amount of sawdust or sand. Or dig in, for which you dig a groove 30-40 cm deep, deeper to the north, in which you lay the seedlings with the crown to the south and sprinkle with loose earth to the tips of the branches. In the trench, the seedlings are stored until they are completely thawed.

What fruit trees are planted in spring

Trees with open system non-frost-resistant roots (these include some varieties of apples and pears, thermophilic apricots, peaches, and some varieties of plums and cherries) are better. It is better to prepare pits for spring planting in the fall. Then you will start planting seedlings immediately after the ground thaws, while the soil is saturated with moisture. The period of spring planting of trees ends with the appearance of the first leaves.

The basic rule of planting is that the earlier you plant, the easier the seedling will adapt and the more likely it will take root well.

V high humidity plant the tree on mounds prepared ahead of time, in the fall. Their disembarkation is carried out unambiguously in the spring.

Planting dates for seedlings with a closed system and in containers

The timing of planting seedlings with an earthen clod (closed root system) is more extended. In spring, the planting period is extended until the onset of hot days, if planting is carried out in cloudy weather, and the crowns of seedlings with leaves are shaded by throwing on white gauze.

Seedlings with a closed root system need abundant watering within a month after planting.

In autumn, seedlings with a clod of earth can be planted as soon as the heat subsides, without waiting for the foliage to fall off. The seedlings will require watering and shading. Another option is to tear off the foliage on the tree. Planting dates in the fall last until the onset of frost.
The timing of planting seedlings in containers is from early spring to late autumn. On hot dry days, it is better to refrain from planting. The crowns of the planted fruit trees are shaded, the seedlings are watered regularly.

To create a beautiful fruit-bearing garden on your site is the dream of any gardener. How difficult is this task? Firstly, you need to understand that all fruit trees are perennials, which means that the harvest will be able to be harvested no earlier than in 3-7 years. And only if the tree is properly planted. In the article, we will consider how the planting of seedlings of fruit trees should take place and what you need to pay attention to in order to avoid mistakes.

First of all, you need to choose the right place for planting a tree in the garden.

If you decide to plant fruit trees in your summer cottage, you need to choose the right place for planting and neighbors for the tree. It is best to make a diagram of the site, where the future location is clearly indicated. fruit crops and all points of the plan of the forthcoming work.

First you need to decide on the varieties and types of trees. Then draw up a landing plan, indicating for each species its distinctive characteristics:

1. what height the tree reaches (to take into account the degree of shading of neighboring crops);
2. what type of tree crown (to avoid overgrowth of plantations);
3. when the tree bears fruit - early ripening, medium or late (to ensure proper care).

Also, the approximate distance between crops must be entered into the scheme in order to avoid close proximity between tall, spreading trees and dwarf species (in this case, the latter will begin to wither over time). You can calculate the distance as follows:

1. Tall and medium-sized fruit trees with a wide crown should be located on an area with a perimeter of at least 10 m by 10 m.
2. Dwarf - 5 m by 5 m.
3. Columnar cultures - 2 m by 2 m.

Do not forget about correct selection neighbors, because not all cultures are able to live peacefully with each other. Here are some guidelines:

1. Pear, plum, cherry, quince will get along well next to the apple tree. Bad - cherries and viburnum.
2. An apple tree and a mountain ash feel good next to a pear, but it is better to plant plums, viburnum and cherries further away.
3. Cherries and plums grow well next to the apple tree, but far from the pear.

For ease of operation and to avoid mistakes, you can transfer the scheme to the site, and for each seat put cards with the name of the crops.

The second stage is preparation for landing

At this stage, you need to choose seedlings, decide on a planting date and prepare the soil.

The soil

It is important to properly prepare the soil and choose a seedling.

If you decide to remove an old tree and plant a new one in its place, you need to wait at least 2-3 years. You cannot plant a new crop immediately, since the soil did not have time to rest, certain substances remained in it that would prevent the new tree from gaining strength.

If the soil in the area is too acidic, you need to add to it dolomite flour... This can be done throughout the site, or only in the planting pits.

Landing time

The trees are planted in spring or autumn, depending on the climatic conditions of the region or the type of tree.

So, frost-resistant seedlings with a medium or late ripening period (apple, cherry, pear) are planted in the fall. Heat-loving and frost-resistant trees (apricots, peaches, cherries, early apples and pears) - in spring.

Southern regions

Here, it is customary to plant fruit trees in the fall, when the leaves from mature trees have already fallen. Warm autumn weather is favorable for young trees, the root takes root well and gives small roots. They supply the culture with water and nutrients. Thus, the seedling is prepared for wintering, which it tolerates perfectly.

It is not recommended to plant trees in the southern regions in spring, since the spring weather is very unstable, it can suddenly turn into a hot dry summer. As a result, the seedling will begin to dry out, and even frequent watering will not save it.

Northern regions

Planting seedlings in the fall in these areas is not accepted, because frosts come early, the soil freezes, which means the root will not have time to take root.

The best time to plant is spring when the buds begin to bloom, and the air temperature rises daily. The tree planted at this time will have time to take root, and during the summer it will increase the aboveground part, giving an annual growth. When autumn and winter come, the fruit tree will be completely ready to survive the wintering calmly.

Middle lane

Planting crops in these regions can occur both in the spring (before bud break) and in the fall (after the leaves fall).

Selection of seedlings

When choosing fruit seedlings, you need to pay attention to the root system. It happens:

1. open (it is better to use it for planting in the fall, in order to track the condition of the roots and cut them off if necessary);
2. closed (more suitable for spring planting when the ground is warm enough).

The main roots should have many small adventitious roots, which will begin to take root in the first place. The root cuts should be white or pink or yellow. But by no means dry - such a tree is not viable. The seedling should be no more than 1-2 years old.

If the seedling is purchased early autumn and there are still leaves on it, they should be cut off. Otherwise, they will evaporate moisture, which will prevent the tree from taking root. The trees bought in late autumn should be buried in a bag of sand and left until spring.

In the spring, when buying, be sure to check if there are live buds on the branches. And it is better not to buy plants with abundant foliage, since it makes no sense to plant them in the same season - the leaves will pick up moisture from the roots.

Stage three - landing

First of all, the landing pits are prepared. It is best to do this 6-8 months before planting. The walls should be steep, loose, standard size- 80 cm by 80 cm. Later, when planting, the size of the pit is adjusted to the roots of the seedling. Next, the pit must be filled in layers:

• peat;
• manure;
• a mixture of fertilizers and sand.

Layers fall asleep until a mound 20 cm high forms on top (the soil will shrink).

The seedling is placed vertically in a prepared hole, carefully distributing the roots on a mound.

The tree is also prepared in advance by dipping it into the root growth stimulator solution for 15-20 hours. Before planting, you need to inspect all the roots and branches, removing the old and broken ones.

Stages of planting fruit trees in the country:

1. Lay the drainage at the bottom of the prepared pit (crushed stone, pebbles, branches), sprinkling it with a layer of soil or sand.
2. Dig up the mixture of soil that was in the hole, then fill it back to make a small mound.
3. Stick a wooden peg in the center, which will serve as a support for the seedling.
4. Place a seedling on a mound, spread the roots and cover with soil by two-thirds, periodically shaking the tree so that the soil fills the voids.
5. Pour out a bucket of water, let it soak. Then fill the hole with the remaining soil to the brim.
6. Form small mounds around the perimeter so that the water does not spread.
7. Pour 2 more buckets of water and mulch the soil, leaving some free space at the trunk.

Sprinkling earth on the tree, you need to monitor the position of the root collar (the place where the stem transitions to the root with a change in color). After soil shrinkage, the neck should be at ground level (the same applies to grafted crops - the graft is above the root collar and, accordingly, should not be underground after planting).

If the root system of the seedling is closed, they plant it by transferring it from the container along with a lump of earth into a prepared hole.

If the site is close groundwater, the drainage layer in the pit is made high, up to 40 cm. Next, a high mound is poured, about 70 cm, and reinforced with planks so that it does not creep. Then add soil, plant the seedling in the center and sprinkle it. This method planting on a high mound is used if the groundwater is located at a level of 1-1.5 m from the ground.

The rules for planting fruit trees are not so complicated, and if you use all the recommendations, you can grow a good fruitful garden that will delight you for years.

When to plant trees - in spring or autumn? There is hardly an absolutely unambiguous answer to this question: it is not necessary year after year due to weather conditions, and each site has its own soil, and any seedling, like any living organism, is distinguished by its individuality. Each season has a whole set of pros and cons to consider when deciding on a planting.







The natural truth is that wood and earth are two parts of the indivisible. Therefore, it is possible to reunite them - that is, to plant a tree in the ground - at any time of the year (except for the period when the earth is not able to take a root - when it is frozen). The sum of other accompanying conditions is another matter. It is she who determines how the seedling will take root, how it will develop further. Therefore, each plant has its own favorable planting and transplanting time. And since it's autumn in the yard, let's remember which trees are worth planting right now (and why so).

Once completed autumn chores in the beds, in the hands of summer residents leaving for their plots, seedlings with carefully covered roots appear. A short, but very responsible time for planting trees begins, and those who are convinced of the correctness of the autumn choice are not mistaken at all.

• It is more profitable

It is much more profitable to buy seedlings in the fall: both nurseries and private gardeners start selling what they just dug planting material- from here big choice, affordable price and the ability to evaluate the quality of the purchase. Plants at this time are often sold with both last leaves and fresh roots (which may indicate the health of the seedling). In addition, conscientious gardeners often demonstrate the fruits inherent in this particular variety, which is very important for the buyer.

• It is easier

Autumn planting will not bring much trouble - you can limit yourself to one watering, and nature itself will finish the rest. Autumn weather and rains will provide the seedling with the necessary soil moisture and comfort. The fact is that, despite the onset of a dormant period, the roots of the tree continue to grow until the soil cools down to a temperature of + 4 ° C. Plants planted in time for the onset of stable frosts will already have time to grow thin absorbent roots and in the new season they will start to grow as much as two, or even three weeks earlier than those seedlings that were planted in the spring.

• This saves time

Purely "human factor" - the autumn planting of trees will free up the summer resident's strength and time for other gardening chores, which in the spring will be "over his head."



Autumn planting is especially favorable in the southern regions, where winters are "warm". The earth does not freeze to the depth of the roots, and young trees are not threatened with hypothermia and freezing.

• Strong frosts able to destroy immature trees.
• Winter is rich in stressful situations for seedlings: strong wind, ice, snowfall and other weather troubles can break young plants.
• In late autumn and winter, seedlings often damage rodents.
• Well, during the absence of the owners, the seedlings in the country just can steal other fruit tree lovers.

Experts strongly advise avoiding fall plantingnot winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees and shrubs:

• Pears
• Apple trees
• Plums
• Apricot
• Peach
• Sweet cherries
• Almond
• Cherries

Well, of course, it would be a mistake to plant in the fall in the northern regions those seedlings that were brought from more southern climatic zones - they simply will not survive the frosts unusual for their homeland.



In the next video - practical advice what plants are better to plant in autumn

What trees and shrubs take root well during autumn planting

• Winter-hardy varieties of apple and pear
• Aronia
• Currant
• Raspberries
• Gooseberry
• Honeysuckle
• Birch
• Chestnut
• Coniferous trees

The optimal period for planting trees in autumn is considered to be the end of September and the whole of October, and possibly even the beginning or mid-November, if the weather is warm.

• V middle lane Of Russia autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October.

• V northern regions- from early September to early October
• V southern regions- from October to mid-November

The weather dictates the timing. Each year, the borders can "float" and differ significantly from the dates of previous years. There were years when it was possible to plant trees and before last numbers November.

• An important landmark condition

The most the best time for planting (transplanting) any seedlings - this is the period of theirbiological dormancy. Its coming is evidenced byend of leaf fall.

It also happens that it was not possible to plant a seedling in the fall. Maybe at the very end of the season you successfully got to the sale of seedlings at bargain prices, or you managed to get a wonderful desired variety, which autumn planting not subject to ... what to do in this case?





And you just need to take care of preserving your seedling until spring, so that then you can plant it on the site. Based on practice, the three most common methods are used for this:

• storage in a cold, damp basement (cellar)
• snowing
• digging in the ground

In the next video, Evgeny Fedotov and Roman Vrublevsky will tell and showhow to dig in seedlingsfor storage from autumn to spring planting.

• Basement storage

If you moisten the roots of the seedlings abundantly and lower them into a container filled with peat, sawdust or sand, then at a temperature from 0 ° С to + 10 ° С and relative humidity 87-90% air, they will perfectly remain in the basement until planting. It is only necessary to water these seedlings in the basement once every 7-10 days.

• Snowing

This is the storage of seedlings outdoors: properly packed, they winter under a sufficient layer of snow, using its magical power to prevent the temperature around living stems from dropping below the "living standard"

In conditions Middle lane, Ural and Siberiafor autumn planting, it is best to choose zoned, and if necessary, winter-hardy varieties that are acclimatized and quickly take root. So, fruit trees of Siberian and Ural selection - pear and apple, mountain ash, mulberry and cherry plum - tolerate planting in autumn quite well.



For gardeners southern regionsit is better to plant trees in the fall. In these parts, autumn is long, warm, with occasional rains, which is "the very thing" for seedlings. But spring here too quickly can be replaced by hot summer.



Seedlings thatdug out ahead of time(before natural leaf fall) most often have immature shoots and almost always freeze slightly.



If you bought a "beautiful tree" with leaves for planting, you risk getting not only unripe, but alsooverdried seedling, because the main loss of moisture goes precisely through the sheet plate.







The main thing is to remember: Nature will substitute her hands for any of her brainchildren, and we have to try to the most favorable terms"Hand over" healthy ripe seedlings with a good root system to her in the nursery. Then there will be no need for a young tree to sit on "sick leave" for years and to receive "disability" by the time it comes of age. If everything is done correctly, no matter what season we plant - in autumn, summer or spring - the tree will respond with cheerful growth, excellent development and a rich harvest.

In autumn, the garden has enough worries. Today we will learn the rules for planting trees and shrubs in autumn.

Autumn plantings have their own specifics, especially in the central zone of Russia. Ignoring this fact can cause a lot of trouble, so today we remind you a few important rules, following which will allow avoiding typical autumn mistakes.

Autumn planting of trees and shrubs

First rule: not everything should be planted in the fall

In the fall, trees with bare roots should not be planted if one of the following statements applies to the seedling:

• this plant, due to its biological characteristics, does not tolerate transplantation;
• this variety or type of plant has a problem with winter hardiness in our climate;
• this tree is grown in another climatic zone and we have not wintered a single winter.

In the first case, we are talking primarily about deciduous trees with a tap and low-branched root system - birches, oaks, chestnuts, nuts, velvets, and so on, as well as such a shrub as hawthorn. A transplant with bare roots is very poorly tolerated by all conifers, except for larch.

As for winter hardiness, here such trees as chestnuts and almost all fruit trees, with the exception of, perhaps, the most winter-hardy local varieties of apple trees, fall into the risk zone. And finally, we do not recommend planting any species and varieties of trees just brought from Europe with bare roots in autumn. A plant that has lost a significant part of its roots may not be able to master the readjustment to other biological rhythms.

Container plants - be they trees or shrubs, deciduous or coniferous - can be planted in the fall. There is only one "but": if the tree has been in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already outgrown the proposed volume and began to twist in rings, the plant may not take root well. Roots in a twisted state will not be able to immediately begin to function at full capacity, so it is better not to purchase such a plant for planting in the fall.

Trees and shrubs with a clod of earth are replanted in the fall in the same way as container trees. But the state of the coma must be studied very meticulously: if it shook, the earth crumbled, you are already dealing with virtually bare roots, only powdered soil, and this can be deadly for the plant in all the cases listed above for such a situation.

In general, a lump must be handled extremely carefully, trying not to injure it once again. If the lump is packed in a net (metal or thread) or burlap, in no case try to get rid of them. This kind of packaging is made from materials that decompose in the ground and will not harm the growth of roots at all.

The second rule: you can plant only that which no longer grows

When planting in the fall, make sure that the selected plants are no longer growing for this season. The active growing season is completed if the apical buds are formed, and the shoots are lignified along the entire length. Otherwise - when the tree leaves in winter before the end of the growing season - it will freeze freeze.

You should be especially careful when buying imported plants, as well as if the summer was very dry and it rained only in August. Plants from other climatic zones, just brought to Russia, may not yet be mastered biological rhythms new terrain. And in dry years, stormy vegetation often begins very late, only with August rains. In both the first and second cases, we get trees by the beginning of the planting season, which are completely unprepared for wintering.

Third rule: do not be late with planting dates

It is believed that in our climatic zone, trees and shrubs with an open root system are best planted before October 10, because the seedlings still have to have enough time to put young roots in a new place.

If a tree manages to form new roots in unfamiliar soil, its root system begins to function at full capacity, and the transplanted plant will survive all the winter hardships much easier. This is especially true for trees and shrubs that are difficult to take root (see the first rule).

Of course, the landing dates may shift somewhat depending on specific weather conditions. So, in the abnormal warm winter enthusiasts continued to plant almost until the beginning of December, but this, of course, was already too much insolence.

Again, when we talk about October 10th, we mean plants with bare roots. Capital research on container plants in Russia was simply not carried out, since the latter appeared relatively recently, in the newest era the onset of imports. But we believe that it is not worth moving away with containers too far from October 10.

Fourth rule: don't overdo it with fertilizers

This is a very important condition for a successful autumn planting. In autumn, only phosphorus fertilizer can be applied to the planting pit. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is safe for the plant in high concentrations.

Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentration (and when fertilizers are applied to the planting pit, we get a high concentration) will not only not stimulate the growth of new roots, but, on the contrary, will seriously impede the functioning of the existing root system. Introduced in the fall, these additives can be detrimental to the transplanted plant.

Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in the fall for planting should be added in any case. They can be made in advance, in the spring, under general training soil.

The only thing that can still support the newly planted plant is root formation stimulants: root and humates. The preparations are diluted with water and applied during watering in the quantities indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

Fifth rule: landings need protection

When planting in autumn, do not forget about a set of measures that will help the plant survive the winter hardships. It's about mulching trunk circle, protecting the trunk from sunburn, mice and hares, installation of supports and protection of the crown from snow breakage.

Mulching with all kinds organic materials- peat, crushed bark, sawdust, straw - saves roots from frost and helps to retain moisture in the soil. Read more about this in the article 6 popular options for autumn mulch for every taste.

After insulating the roots, consider fighting the mice. After all, organic mulch (especially straw, sawdust, bark) will be very attractive to them. It is imperative to protect the fruit, as well as decorative varieties apple trees, plums, pears. But we would advise, in general, to provide all newly planted trees with protection, if such an opportunity exists. I had to see, for example, how mice gnawed cambium even on ash trees and Chinese poplars.

Actually, the protection itself is sold in the store - it is such a thin plastic spiral mesh that is put on the stem. If you have a problem with hares on the site, you also need to purchase similar protection against hares. To learn more, read the article How to protect your garden from rodents in winter and watch the video Simple way to protect trees from rodents.

But the tree should be saved from sunburn with whitewash. Best to use water-based paint, preferably a special garden. If the fungicide is not included in the whitewash, it would be good to add it - this will simultaneously protect the tree from pests. At the end of February, the whitewash will not hurt to renew if the autumn rains washed it away.

A garter to the support of a tree planted for winter (as well as a tree planted in spring) is required! In no case should the tree sway in the wind, setting the root system in motion - in this case, rooting will be problematic. If the tree is small, one or two supports are enough; adult plant needs a stretching system.

Finally, do not forget to protect the crown from the snow breaker by tying it with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape - for all those whose branches branch off from the trunk at an acute angle. And twice it is relevant for conifers with a similar crown shape - junipers, thujas, cypress trees. Shrubs also do not hurt to protect from snow breakage.

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the specialists and readers of our project.