The article deals with how to choose and buy the right soil for a summer cottage.

When does it open holiday season, it seems that a land machine for a plot can be bought literally on every corner.

Roadside vendors claim that their goods are first-class black soil or fertile land. Unfortunately, only the structure of the soil can be determined by eye, but the exact chemical composition, including the level of fertility and the presence harmful substances, will allow you to find out only laboratory analysis. If the sellers present any photocopies of documents on the soil, for example, a laboratory test report, then the authenticity of these papers is often in doubt.

It may turn out that the soil bought from random people is a spent substrate from greenhouses or a layer cut off during the expansion of roads or from abandoned collective farm fields. And this is fraught with the fact that the soil will be crammed with weed seeds, contaminated with pesticides or infected with pests and pathogens. Most often, peat, which is poor in composition, is given out as "fat" black soil sold from hand.

On the website of our partner http://top100pro.ru ( rental exchange construction equipment ) you will be able to place an order for the purchase or delivery of any soil and choose the most offer of the system participants.

WE BUY SOIL CORRECTLY

In order not to be mistaken with the choice of soil, it is better to purchase it in specialized companies, since there are many of them now. These include companies supplying various bulk materials, including for the construction of buildings and landscaping. Production and sale soil mixtures engaged in large nurseries and landscape firms.

Information about the range, prices, composition of soils and mixtures can be found on the websites of companies on the Internet. But some questions, for example, whether discounts are provided for the purchase of a large amount of soil, whether delivery is included in the price, or prices are indicated for pickup, will have to be clarified by phone.

Before placing an order, you need to determine the composition of the soil, based on the conditions of the allotment, and calculate the volume. Let's say you plan to raise the level of the site by 4-5 cm, the soil on it is a medium-heavy loam that needs improvement, and the area allotted for planting is 12 acres (1200 sq. M). In this case, you will need at least 60 cubic meters. m of soil, for example, a mixture of lowland peat, coarse sand and floodplain land in a ratio of 3:4:2. Loose soil, especially if it contains a lot of peat, settles noticeably over time, so it is better to buy it with a margin.

Experts recommend not to abuse peat. Its amount in the soil mixture, which is distributed over the site, should not exceed 30%. For example, a soil mixture, more than half consisting of peat, is thoroughly mixed with the soil of the allotment. Individual crops are mulched with a thin layer of peat, followed by embedding the mulch into the soil.

Chernozem in its pure form is not suitable for use in areas near Moscow. It is introduced little by little when digging sandy soils or introduced into soil mixtures along with sand, light loam.

EXACT CALCULATION

Price different types soil, ready soil mixtures, organic substrates different manufacturers may differ significantly. Fertile or vegetable soil ( upper layer from the fields, a mixture of low-lying peat with sand or floodplain land) will cost 590-1790 rubles per cubic meter. m. Loam, poor in composition, suitable for raising the level of the site, will be brought for 360 rubles per cubic meter. m, and floodplain land, with which you can increase the fertility of the soil, will cost 1040-1270 rubles per cubic meter. m.

Tambov, Tula, Ryazan, Orlovsky, Lipetsk chernozems cost from 900 to 1350 rubles per cubic meter. m, and all kinds of peat (moor, lowland, transitional, weathered) are sold at 450-900 rubles per cubic meter. m.
Horse manure can be bought for 720-1300 rubles per cubic meter. m.

For those who find it difficult to make the desired composition of the soil on their own, you can use the service "preparation of the soil mixture according to the customer's recipe."

FROM THEORY TO PRACTICE

When visually assessing the quality of the soil, you need to make sure that all the components of the mixture are well mixed, there are no large foreign inclusions (stones, roots, fragments of boards, pieces of glass, clods of clay). The substrate should be loose, finely lumpy in structure. In large companies, special equipment is used for mixing and sifting soil mixtures, since mixing by hand (with shovels) is inefficient.

The brought soil is scattered over a previously dug up and leveled surface and, if necessary, thoroughly mixed with the ground on the site. All the soil is unlikely to immediately go into action, therefore, a dry, unflooded place in a free corner of the land allotment should be allocated for storage. If trees grow nearby that need to be preserved, the soil is poured outside the projections of the crowns of these trees.

For short-term storage (1-1.5 months), heaps or heaps are made at a distance of 2-3 m from the trunks. And in order to protect the soil from weed seeds and erosion by showers, it is covered with polyethylene.

My garden is located in a swampy area and regularly gets heavily flooded in the spring. This most negatively affects the quality of the soil - the nutrients are gradually washed out of it, it is strongly compacted and does not dry out until the end of May. When buying soil for the site, I had to “walk” through almost all possible rakes, so in this article I decided to consider the main mistakes that gardeners and gardeners make when purchasing soil for the site.

The choice of soil of the wrong composition

When choosing the composition of the purchased soil mixture, two factors must be considered: initial state of the soil on the site (the level of its fertility + mechanical composition) and kinds cultivated plants that you plan to cultivate on your land (some vegetable and ornamental crops may have diametrically opposed requirements not only for the structure of the soil, but also for the quantity and ratio of the main nutrients contained in it).

For example, to improve a heavy soil containing a large percentage of clay, a mixture consisting of high-quality grassroots peat, coarse sand and floodplain soil in a ratio of 3:4:2 is best suited. Of course, most often the choice of soil mixtures on the market is limited and comes down to two or three options:

1. Peat mixtures, which are a mixture fertile land and peat in various proportions. They are usually purchased for a lawn and for site planning.
2. Chernozems used mainly as a nutrient additive to the main soil mixture (usually no more than 10% of its volume).
3. Soil mixtures, which may include, in addition to peat and vegetable soil, also humus, mineral fertilizers, sand and even compost. Such mixtures are usually offered by large specialized companies and they are not cheap. But they usually do not contain garbage, have optimal moisture and air capacity and undergo strict environmental control.

The general rule is - choose the soil in which the amount of peat does not exceed 30%.

Buying from unreliable suppliers

If you are not sure about the honesty of the seller, then it is better to play it safe and purchase soil from large well-known companies that value their reputation in the market and will not put a pig in a poke for you.

Buying soil from private traders cheaply, with a good combination of circumstances, you will receive waste soil from industrial greenhouses, on which even ordinary parsley will not grow. And in the worst case, you will get land from sedimentation tanks, “rich” in compounds of mercury, lead, cadmium, copper and even arsenic. For such savings, you can pay with the health of yourself and your loved ones.

I had the experience of buying such soil: they brought us the upper layer of virgin soil cut from the meadow. The soil was used to backfill the foundation from the demolished country house and to raise the ground level in a small area elsewhere. Already next spring we realized what a mistake we had made - the whole area was covered with perennial weeds, which we had to deal with the whole next season.

But if you still decide to buy the soil from the machine, then at least carry out its minimum check:

1. With a wooden stake with a pointed end, poke the soil in different places. Does the stick easily pierce the soil mixture? So, there is almost no clay in it. If you cannot push a stick even 10 centimeters, then there is a lot of clay or sand in the land offered to you.
2. Perform a soil acidity test using the Soil Control RBC Kit (available at any gardening store).
3. Make a simple test for the mechanical composition of the soil, described in.
4. Take an empty liter jar, fill it with soil, fill it with clean water and mix thoroughly. Wait for the soil to precipitate, consisting of a layer of clay and sand. If we conditionally take the height of the formed column as 100%, we can easily estimate how much sand is in the soil mixture, and how many other components.

But the chemical composition of the purchased soil and its environmental safety can only be determined in a specialized laboratory.

Purchase of black soil

Acquiring black soil to improve the quality of the soil on the site is an expensive and pointless exercise. And that's why.

Firstly, in our climate, chernozem very quickly loses all its positive characteristics, for which it was bought. And the thing is that chernozem is formed only if the moisture coefficient in a given area does not exceed one, that is, the earth evaporates more moisture than is poured onto it along with precipitation. In most of the territory of Russia, this coefficient is higher than one, therefore, after several heavy rains, the chernozem loses all its advantages, compacts and becomes overgrown with a hard crust.

Secondly, REAL black soil cannot be cheap if the nearest black soil zone is located at a distance of hundreds of kilometers from your site. The cost of such soil does not only consist of the price of its loading and unloading, it also includes all kinds of transport and overhead costs, including the cost of gasoline.

Thirdly, often under the guise of chernozem, a mixture of grassroots peat and sapropel is sold. Such a mixture outwardly resembles black soil, but it is less fertile and, moreover, tends to acidify the soil on the site.

Buying too little land

This is also one of the most common mistakes made when purchasing land for a plot.

For example, if your goal is to increase the soil level in a six acre medium loamy soil area by only 4 to 5 centimeters, then you will need at least 30 cubic meters soil, that is, you will need to bring to the site at least 2-3 (!) trucks of land(the capacity of a truck varies from 10 to 15 cubic meters of soil). In our area, one car of fertile land (I note - it is land of unverified quality, and not humus, or even more so black soil) costs from 5,000 rubles. And if you take a better one, and even with all the "papers", you will have to fork out for all 10,000 rubles.

It seems to me, optimal output from this situation is to equip the garden with stationary beds and fill them with high-quality soil mixture purchased from large companies with a good reputation. Alternatively, you can also purchase sapropel, sand, horse (cow humus) and peat and make the mixture yourself (if you have the time and knowledge).

Thus, the order of your actions when buying soil for the site should be as follows:

1. Determine the mechanical and nutritional composition of the soil in your area, and also think in advance what crops you are going to grow on it.
2. Choose a large supplier who is ready to provide you with a complete list of certificates and analyzes of the soil mixture they sell.
3. Calculate how many cubic meters of soil you need for your purposes (improving fertility or raising the ground level).

By the way, you can read about how to ennoble clay soil.

I also advise you to watch a short video on the same topic.

Soil improvement: clay, sandy, peaty

Construction on suburban area: where to put a layer of soil?

Where to plant trees, build a greenhouse, make beds

Soil for seedlings: soil for tomatoes, soil for cucumbers

DIY beds: improving the soil, increasing fertility

Dig the green chopped mass together with the soil to a depth of 8–10 cm at any time, as soon as the opportunity presents itself, and hay is best applied in the spring, before planting in trenches, under a layer of soil, 25–30 cm thick. Can be applied to such trenches and food waste (except for bones), tops, vegetable peelings. Leaves are best applied in autumn for shallow digging. How to improve the soil on the site? Sow winter rye or white mustard at the end of summer, and in late autumn dig up the aerial part of the mustard and rye shoots along with the roots. Rye can be left until spring, but then it will first have to be mowed, and then dug up. You can "treat" the soil with bacterial fertilizers, which are sold ...

High beds-boxes from Igor Lyadov. crop beds, beautiful vegetable garden

Garbage bags: the subtleties of choice.

Morning. Hasty fees to work. We remember about the garbage, we pick it up from the bucket ... And then, at the most inopportune moment - on stairwell or at the entrance, the polyethylene is torn - cans, pieces of paper and bits spill out under your feet. The situation is unpleasant, but familiar to many firsthand. How to avoid it? Carefully consider the choice of garbage bags. The main characteristic that affects the quality of the package is the composition of the feedstock. As a rule, a distinction is made between low density polyethylene (LDPE...

Discussion

I recently found the site of a company on the Internet, they produce high-quality garbage bags, use latest equipment and have a huge work experience ... in general, if anyone is interested, I will leave the link [link-1]

Personally, my wife often sends me to take out the trash, but since I'm too lazy, I wait until the last minute, and they often tear along the way, I found a place where there are strong bags [link-1], I advise.

How best to arrange garden plot to have enough space for everything? To small plot contained everything you need and visually seemed larger, you have to comply certain rules and even resort to tricks. First of all, you should not build a house and a garage in the middle of the site or on the opposite side from the entrance. The access road will take up too much space in this case. To save space...

According to Mittlider, narrow beds are watered every day. Organic is a different matter. If both the beds and the aisles are covered with mulch, two waterings per week is enough. Especially handy here. drip irrigation: one tape is enough for a narrow bed, a maximum of two for a bed of 70-80 cm. Trenches - narrow beds for hot climates If your site never gets warm, it is best to sink a narrow compost bin into the ground. Right in the sod, I dig a trench two bayonets wide and a bayonet deep. Down I put branches and humus with soil, and on top - ready-made compost with soil. I plant tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, cabbage, peppers in two rows. When they get up and grow up, I fill up the trench with straw or grass. And my countryman Sergey Kladovikov mulches his trenches with shredded cardboard...

How to properly plan your garden.

Have you decided to grow a crop and do not know where to start? First of all, it is necessary to properly plan the plot of the garden. It depends on how rich your harvest will be. A big role is played by what conditions you create for your crops. In the old days, it was believed that if there are no fruit trees, shrubs, flowers, fragrant herbs, and vegetable crops on the site, then the site is not beautiful. Site planning To properly plan the site, you must decide what you ...

Are there any mandatory requirements for...

The question is: is it possible to install cesspool or a septic tank behind a fence, outside the site?

Discussion

In fact, there is a whole set of rules for the installation of sewer facilities. But it was easier for us with this - representatives of the officials installed the Topas 6 septic tank for us, so they did everything as it should be on the site. No complaints, everyone is happy. And by the way, we also immediately ordered the service. We plan to mothball the septic tank for the winter, since there is such an opportunity. The septic tank itself is resistant to voltage drops, it works constantly. You seek advice from people who are involved and understand this directly and you will be happy.

You can build a septic tank anywhere, but you need to keep in mind that building a septic tank off-site is an illegal structure and the following risks await you:

Firstly, the construction outside the site will definitely be noticed by someone and brought to your attention.

Secondly, there are no guarantees that sometime in the future you will not be issued an order to eliminate the illegal construction at your expense,

Thirdly, when registering a building, you will have to register (show on the drawings and present SES) a septic tank. A septic tank located outside the site will deprive you of the opportunity to officially register the building.

Tell me, please - we want to buy a plot - they offer the last one to the forest (behind it is a drainage ditch from the rear and a forest on the side, (neighbor on one side only). Or we can take it in the middle of the row (neighbors on both sides). What are the pros and cons of extreme sections?What is better to choose?

Discussion

I'm hooked, I'll write too. A few years ago we bought a plot on the edge of the village. Corner plot, neighbors on both sides, no plots across the road. Along the fence on the street, I planted different trees, lilacs, pines, now they are growing, there will be beauty. Village on a hill with panoramic views. It's beautiful too...
But according to the wind rose from the field, fire from the track comes to our site - cigarette butts are thrown or specially set on fire, I can’t say. And where do these idiot arsonists come from???
Fields are not cultivated, dry grass is burning. Last spring was like the end of the world. All the fields in the vicinity burned down, unmown areas. One house on an overgrown neighbor's plot. I had everything cut to the ground. So it worked out. But if suddenly there is no one to mow the grass around the site, everything can fucking burn out in one season.
Photos for seeding - for those who choose the extreme site, and for those who are still burning last year's grass. This is what we had on May 1, 2015.

It is huge, it owns 10 acres, but in fact it is half a hectare. And there are no neighbors behind the fence. - already said, safety. True, a friend said that they climbed into the neighbors in the middle even if there was a barrier and a security guard. Yes, we have our own pine alley along the fence, my husband planted it 20 years ago, here's another +.

But if there was a forest on the site of the site, or the land needs to be dug for other reasons, you will have to start planting the lawn in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how to make a lawn in the country with your own hands, which lawn grass buy how often the lawn needs watering and mowing. What is a lawn? This is a specially arranged, leveled area, sown with various turf-forming or creeping low-growing plants. Lawns can...

I really need advice. We have a plot of land 7mX3m in front of the house on the south side. The sun is always there. Initially, I planted clematis there - out of 25 varieties, 4 remained, the rest could not stand it, although watering according to the rules (a lot and rarely). Planted thuja - turned yellow. The land is good there, but you need to plant plants that really love the heat and the sun. Maybe grapes? Tell me please. Thank you.

Discussion

Are you ready to mess with grapes? the neighbor is constantly wrapping him up
I grow, irises, peonies, phloxes, daylilies, marigolds, delphinium, lilies, roses from neighbors

It's strange about clematis - I have 20 pieces sitting on the south side of the house in a sunny area for 12 years, and without problems, if you shade the base of the bush, planting annuals so that the soil does not overheat.

Girls, tell me, I want to buy a land machine (there is so much soil and black soil and a lot of everything else ...) for 1. I need to plant trees 2. make a small vegetable garden 3. if there is a little left, then a piece of lawn is actually the question what kind of land to buy? and if you give the passwords for the turnout in Kiev, it would be great!

And weeds will again climb out of the ground, and gardeners will begin a new stage in the struggle for the cleanliness of the beds. Is it possible to stop weeding the beds? Last summer, with the help of gardening author Galina Kizima, we figured out why weeding is the most inefficient way to control weeds. Today we will find out what can be done right now, while there is still snow on the beds. So, we taught how to deal with perennial rhizomatous weeds ...
...While the snow is lying If you arrive at your site before the last snow melts, do the following manipulations. Scatter ash or peat on the beds directly on the snow to slightly blacken their surface. Then cover the beds with the leftovers old film, lay it on top of the pole so that the film is not pulled up or blown away by the wind. In the spring, the sun bakes well, and under a layer of film, the blackened snow on the beds will quickly melt, the surface layer of the soil will warm up, and weeds will quickly sprout from it. This will happen in about 10-12 days. When you visit your site in two weeks, you will see that the weeds have sprouted. Remove the film, loosen the top layer of soil and leave the beds open for a day. Young seedlings of weeds will die. Weeds are the most vulnerable...

What soil do you buy for seedlings? Last year, my husband took it to the Metro, I didn’t like it at all, the seedlings in this land obviously didn’t feel very well. (Which do you recommend?

"" Blanket "" for the beds: why cover the earth for the winter.

Some very diligent gardeners, after harvesting, remove weeds, dig up the soil, level the surface and leave it for the winter, admiring the neat appearance of the garden. It is believed that the soil is resting. However, the uncovered soil does not rest, but collapses. She's like naked man freezing in the cold wind and freezing in the cold. AT organic farming soil is treated as a living being. Live her...

And only once. We tell how now, in the fall, to prepare a bed for spring plantings. The most time-consuming step in the arrangement of organic beds is double digging of the soil. It is most convenient to use a rectangular, well-sharpened shovel. It is also necessary to prepare a pitchfork and a board with a length equal to the width of the beds, so that it is convenient to stand on it without trampling the ground when digging. The width of the beds should be made no more than 1-1.2 m - so that you can freely reach the middle of the beds from any side. The length is taken as needed or the allotted area allows. Mark out the garden. If the ground is dry, water evenly with water, at first a little, so that only ...

Garden for the lazy: how to get rid of weeding beds in the country

How to get rid of watering in the country: 9 materials for mulch

Garden for the lazy: why digging is bad

Discussion

07/06/2014 04:57:05 PM, btrfvd

It's not the first time I've read comments like this. Some authors go even further and suggest that we do not shed tomatoes, weed weeds, or even sow, but simply leave part of the plants so that their seeds ripen and are sown.
I read it and am amazed every time. It seems that people consider a fair part of humanity not only idiots, but also masochists. After all, experiments on such "natural farming" over the millennia of farming were set up many times - involuntarily, of course (it was not possible to plow, there was no one to harvest, and so on). And if this led to positive rather than negative results, would our ancestors really not have noticed this?
Such "natural farming", without plowing, but only with loosening directly for sowing, was practiced by people at the dawn of civilization, when Agriculture basically. Only, obviously, plowing turned out to be more productive ... otherwise, why would they start doing it? From masochism, or what?

Why is the water cycle important in nature?

All water on Earth is in constant motion - circulation. It evaporates from the surface of the ocean and land, replenishing atmospheric moisture. From the atmosphere in the form of rain and snow, water returns to the ocean and to land, while feeding numerous rivers and groundwater. Approximately half of the water of the river is again carried into the seas and oceans, replenishing that part of it that was used up for evaporation. The rainfall enriches the soil with moisture, which is so necessary for fertility. To the water cycle we are so...

I saw pictures, the gaps between the plants are covered with something that looks like small chips, and also pebbles such as fine gravel (?). Who knows what it is, where to get it and how it looks in real life? Helps protect against weeds, retains moisture? Tell me who knows.

Peat, sand, hydrogel: which is better for seeds

bought an empty lot this year. It is necessary to start planting next year, there is no experience. What can be planted?

Discussion

We started planting with greens, ground cucumbers and carrots, beets in small beds. Approximately two acres was enough. Plus bushes (5) and two cherries and apple trees, a pear.
The first time they plowed all over with a tractor, they didn’t like it, but only he took the virgin land. Before winter, hay manure was transported around the site, four years later, and who knows how much manure the earth is old, tender and loose, even I can dig with a shovel.
If strength remains, then planting strawberries, victoria, or whatever you like, not everyone will be in the first year.

for starters - pour a hurricane from weeds (2 weeks before digging). mark the landing sites fruit bushes and trees - usually on the high parts of the site. mark the paths and the landing site of the house. or UFO. do not forget the parking lot. and only then - to dig up roughly - with a revolution of the turf plates. in the spring - that's right, potatoes, and to saturate the soil with everything useful - oats. or rye. with a wide gesture of the sower from O. Bender. ridges - across the slope.

There is a river at 25-30 m from the bathhouse. I need a pump and I don’t know which one is better, a submersible one, but it must be cleaned every evening, or put in a bathhouse, but they say that there are some troubles with it.

Discussion

Podolsky Dozhileks. If not for drinking - just right. powerful and most importantly - long-lived in very aggressive environments. 3600r from the factory - the most low-power in the line.

We have the Kid hanging, 150 m from the barrel-pool to the river, a hose is laid and electrical wire. For watering-washing-pool is excellent. But we have a height of 10 m in front, a house on a mountain, a river under a mountain. We hang the pump in May and clean it in September, the neighbors also have the Kid hanging on the river - we tie it on a string and a stick :) Not submersible, the ground Gardena could not raise water up to us, so we use it around the site.
Even earlier there was a gasoline pump, but they were tortured to carry it to the river.

Garden in the kitchen.

This post will be close, first of all, to all the fans and students of the magnificent master Jamie Oliver. Everyone who, like me, follows his work, his new books and updates on the site and in in social networks. I really love his TV programs, especially "Done in 30 minutes". It's amazing how it is possible, using everyday products, to prepare a full-fledged lunch menu in such a short time. At the same time, Jamie's simplicity is impressive! His childlike innocence...

Discussion

Your rack is unreal. Well, it is not clear why so much land should be kept at home. I usually plant two bowls of basil-oregano and I have enough for the whole summer. The basil has already risen, by the way.

On my window, mint and parsley grow beautifully in the summer. Dill, surprisingly, grows, but does NOT smell at all. Either he needs pollination, or something, but here is grass-grass.
Such a waterfall of greenery is generally unrealistic to grow in ordinary apartment. Only if on special substrate and with round-the-clock illumination.

Vegetable beds- change the configuration.

It turns out that starlings can also be fed

If spring is not in a hurry for you, the ground is covered with snow, and the starlings have already arrived, you can help them by feeding them with finely chopped boiled meat or sausage. Not being able to get to the insects under the snow, they will be happy with this as well. So said some ornithologist on TV.

"Russian garden - nk": the best possible

Today, Russian Ogorod-NK is the largest company in the world in terms of seed production. The holding carries out the whole range of seed-growing works: selection and selection, seed production, their cleaning, packaging and sale in the professional and amateur markets. More than 1200 items The company "Russian Ogorod-NK" offers an extensive selection of seeds and planting materials vegetables, flowers, lawns. Our range is able to satisfy not only amateurs, but also the most advanced...

We have a plot. A new one, only the light roads were made and the lands were marked out. There is no money for the arrangement yet, maybe in 3 years we will master it. So I think, maybe some apple-pears to plant - they will just grow up? But the maximum that I can do there is to come 3-4 times during the summer. Will they survive under such conditions? Well, in the spring and autumn I can come again .. Or should I not bother? Or maybe something else can be planted in advance? (the plot is large - plant as much as you like)

Discussion

Necessarily!!! plant fruit trees (apple trees 4-6pcs, plums 3-4pcs) and currants 3-5pcs. You can plant 2-3-year-old trees (these are just thin twigs and not expensive), just in 3-4 years they will become larger, then it will be possible to form, or maybe not at all. And the currant during this time will also grow and bear fruit. And if during the summer you come 3-4 times, but in spring and autumn, 1 time - that's enough. Plant in early spring There will definitely be rain in the spring. Over the summer they will settle down. M.b. Some will die, but not all. Good luck!

lawn grass or bent grass - and cut 3-4 times per season.
trees and shrubs can be planted, but may die in the heat.
if only "at random"

Girls, I need your advice. We recently got a site. We spent our first summer there last year. There is a small garden, but everything grew poorly, partly of course due to the great heat, but not only this reason, I'm sure. According to inaccurate information, earlier the owners of the land did not fertilize it with anything. What can and should be done in the spring with the earth so that the crop grows well? The land itself is good, black soil. There is compost heap, but not much. Not enough for the whole garden. Can you fertilize the soil? If yes, then...

I have a lot of car, I think 1 cube per eye, maximum two. Neighbors don't need... where can you get that much? I already thought, maybe I can pick it up with / export, right behind the Moscow Ring Road (Kosino). Can you point? :)

please tell me where to buy good land(for beds)? Direction: Leningradka, Dmitrovka or Rogochevka

I'm going to order a land car for the dacha on the weekend .... How much does it cost now?

We dug a 4x4 pond in och. low place. We always have water in this corner and at the neighbors. We dug grooves around the site so that all the rainwater from the site would drain into the pond. After 2 years, this pond became 6x6 ... and I'm afraid that this is not the limit. We are thinking about how to strengthen the coast so that they do not crawl further. And yet - when we dug it, water immediately began to appear - there was a stream - as if an underground source beats. Maybe someone knows what is better to do in our case ... We have fish and water raspberries in the pond)

Discussion

Ours is very similar. Also a pond in a low place, and even a stream flows nearby. And also in one place it collapsed heavily for two years. Reinforced with metal fittings and large stones. First, they cut the earth in layers, like steps, then these steps were strengthened. And all over the edge planted large plants with rhizomes that can hold the ground.

Not only is there ground water close, you also dug grooves to it, of course it will expand. You can lay the banks with reinforcing mesh, you can drive them in with old pipes, you can iron sheets, you can cover them with turf and stones, you can even line them with logs, you can cement, you can just lay them with stones.
Can I lay this shore with a black film and overthrow the stones

Throughout the site, there are groove paths left over from the beds. We have been thinking for two seasons what is better to do with them ... Just dig and level? I'm afraid that local workers will not make it possible to sow the lawn. Land to bring and level? I don't like what kind of land people in the district are bringing. Either some kind of clay from nowhere, or peat, which is smeared on the fingers like fuel oil, under the guise of black soil ... Tell me, is it really possible to find good land in the Moscow region? Just don't ask me what I...

I ask for help "experienced". There is an uncultivated low area, about three acres of water is standing even in summer. We found a construction site 15 km from the site (the area of ​​​​the city of Stupino, Moscow Region). One of these days we will go to negotiate with the builders so that the soil from the pit will be brought to us. Actually the question is: How much can it cost - that is, within what "fork" to bargain with the builders? And with whom to negotiate - with the foreman or with the carriers? Thanks in advance to everyone who will respond.

Large seeds (zucchini, beans, peas, pumpkin) are sown in dug holes of 2-3 grains, then weak plants are removed, leaving only one. Most of these crops are heat-loving, they are planted at a great depth: 3-4 cm on heavy soils or 5-6 cm on light soils. After sowing, it is better to compact the soil a little, slightly pressing down on top with a shovel so that the seeds are better pressed to the ground. But, if the bed is heavily flooded with rain before germination, tamping can only do harm: it will be difficult for plants to break through a hard earthen crust. The subtleties of working with seedlings Since the conditions of protected and open ground differ sharply, then the "coddled" seedlings in the home climate are not adapted to survival in insecurity ...
... There are already developed symbioses: carrots and onions protect each other from carrot and onion fly, and in the neighborhood of cabbage and celery, the latter scares off whites. Cucumbers, dill, basil, tomatoes, radishes are good to sow where zucchini and zucchini will be later. And further. Even in the tiniest garden, you need to try to allocate a little space for the baby's "own" garden and teach him how to care for the future harvest. Let the most unpretentious crops like radishes, zucchini or lettuce grow on it - it will be interesting for a child to water and weed their green pets. In addition, children are usually very proud of their gardening success and enjoy eating the vegetables that they have grown themselves. Time to fertilize? A few words about plant nutrition, b...

Discussion

I also have clay. In addition to what has already been listed, I always plant a decent area of ​​peas in the garden, then I dig this area, together with the husks and tops, in the fall.
We transport all heaps from moles to beds and flower beds.
While cleaning the ponds with this water, we water everything that is possible (plants love marsh water) Soprapel is also there.
When developing a new site, I first cover it with cardboard, film, plywood or old slate (what is at hand) so that the vegetation rots, and then the weed roots are easily removed, and the fertile layer remains.
Well, we collect all the green mass of both weeds and vegetable waste in heaps, cover them with foil or plant pumpkins on these heaps. And after 2-3 years, these heaps also turn into earth.

Avrorik told you correctly - you need to add EVERYTHING. Remember, in the 5th grade, they did experiments on what the soil consists of? From clay, sand and borders. So add sand and organic matter (peat, humus, sapropel, manure).
Very cheap but long way from personal experience. Sow oats and dig. You can dig green, you can wait for ripening, harvest (the grains break off easily if you pass the ear through your fingers) and dig up the straw. In the second case, it will turn out quite cheaply, because the seed will be needed only for the first time. You can sow 2-3 times a year (to ripen, of course, only the first sowing will have time). In 5 years you won't recognize your clay.

I wouldn't recommend buying a pig in a poke.

They offer black soil, but they will bring simple land. Better ground touch with your own hands to see. The best thing is to bring humus. If the land is still poorly developed, then the humus is the most the best fertilizer. If the areas are large, then mixed with peat or black soil. If you import black soil, then pay attention to the quality. High-quality black soil is rich in humus, dark in color. Peat can be of different types: light (horse) it is more light color and a heavy (grassroots) darker color. Black peat has a higher humus content.
If you raise the site, then it is better to start with high-moor peat, because its decay period is another 15% and it has an increased desiccant, which will make your site drier. And in the future, use both black soil and grassroots peat with the addition of humus. Beautiful lands on old abandoned farms (if there are such, of course, in the area).
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Comments

Dear Mamma mia, in your question you state that: There is no point in plowing up the old land, because it is necessary to raise the site. night rain and all the black earth just washed away on the asphalt.

What land to bring to the plot for the garden?

We have peat bogs and also had to raise the ground level. We ordered loam with sand. The site was leveled, and fertile land was brought only for beds. We make the beds bulk, high. We knock together formwork from boards or make them from slate. In the finished beds we fall asleep fertile soil. It is not known what will be brought to you under the name of black soil. It still needs to be adjusted. We mix imported land with ashes from the stove and barbecue, egg husks, sand, since our "chernozem" is more like peat. We put humus at the bottom of the bed, fill it with sand and put a fertile mixture, spill everything with phytosporin. True, we do it in the fall.
We plant potatoes in loam, put a little humus, ash and peat in each hole. We plant at the end of May, when the earth is more or less dry.

Buy land specifically for the beds, and level the area with sand or loam. So cheaper and better.

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Whatever land you bring to level the site, for beds for vegetables and berries you will still need another land.

Which? Each culture has its own. Each type of vegetable / fruit / berry has its own soil preferences. For some vegetable crops, so-called. warm beds, for example, cucumbers, some types of cabbage, so there can be any land there, and warm beds will have to be done with your own hands quite carefully. And if you want to plant a garden and get a harvest, you will have to take care of the quality of the land for the beds not once and for all plants at once, but for each species separately. Meanwhile, if you have peat on your site, then buy loam, if loam, then buy peat. And be sure to buy the same amount of sand, which always goes 1: 1 to the beds, and for certain types more sand plants are required. Sand is always useful.

The creation of fertile land on the site often takes more than one year.

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In fact, it is necessary to plow up the old land in order to avoid the appearance of weeds as much as possible by choosing weed roots from the plowed land.

But about what kind of land to buy, you first need to decide on your own. Just take a look at what kind of land the plants that you listed grew better. Dig a hole on the bayonet of a shovel and determine "by eye" its composition. Here, based on the composition you have determined, and acquire land.

And do not forget to fill it with manure, especially cucumbers love fresh manure.