Fruit trees in winter need some protection, because there are many factors that can destroy the garden in severe cold. Today we will talk about what measures should be taken to prepare the garden for winter rest.

We already know some precautions that can protect plants from freezing and from the spring attack of insects. We will mention some of them again, but we will also talk about other secrets.

Top dressing - when and how to water

Top dressing before the cold season is an important part of preparing the garden for wintering. Fertilization with phosphorus and potassium will help strengthen all parts of the tree and increase their winter hardiness, which is very important for young plants and seedlings of the current year.

Superphosphate and potassium sulfate can be used for this process. Fertilizers are applied to the soil strictly according to the instructions on the packaging of the fertilizer, in the trunk circles. But most positively in late summer and early autumn, fruit trees react to foliar top dressing in the form of crown spraying. To do this, you can use potassium monophosphate - complex fertilizer, which contains the necessary components to strengthen the plant and prepare it for the cold period.

You need to know that the root system garden trees able to withstand temperatures up to -15-16 ° C, while dwarf specimens in the garden have a limit that is 2-3 degrees higher. Naturally, such temperatures practically do not exist under a layer of snow, but if the garden survives a frosty winter without snow, then serious troubles are possible.

If the root system is damaged by frost, this does not mean that the tree will die immediately. It can bloom with the first warmth and even bloom, but the developmental lag will be seriously noticeable. Usually, in the summer, such plants die.

AT this case If you notice a lag in development, injuries of a tree, its illness in time, you should quickly help the plant to escape, otherwise it can be lost forever. Special stimulants that must be used during irrigation will help restore life and health. These are Kornevin, Heteroauxin and Zircon - preparations for restoring the root system.

Cleaning in the orchard, cleaning and whitewashing

Here we prefer not to repeat ourselves, since detailed material already available on this topic. You can read about that, and, applying the knowledge gained in the garden, proceed to the following measures to protect the orchard and prepare it for wintering.

Plant hardening, soil mulching

The process of hardening the root system is very important, since many plants can disappear from frost in winter, especially if the winter turned out to be fierce, but snowless.

Hardening is carried out very simple method, which even an inexperienced summer resident can do. You just need to remove a layer of soil near the tree trunk, no more than 3-5 cm, and store it in a dry and cool (but not freezing) place until the first frost. In this case, it is important to harden the bare roots with cold, but not to miss severe frosts, otherwise you can do harm. With the onset of the first frosts, the earth returns to its place.

Thanks to such a process, the root system will gradually get used to severe colds and will react to them more neutrally, freely surviving even winters without snow.

Hardening must be carried out if you want to protect apple and pear trees from the winter cold. Other types fruit trees they don't react as much to frost.

Preparing the garden for winter is also done by mulching stone fruit or apple trees, which are grafted onto a semi-dwarf stock. Soil mulching is carried out with any dry bulk material that is available in the country. It will be most correct to carry out mulching closer to mid-late November.

autumn watering

A charge of moisture must be carried out by mid-October, this is also a special preparation of trees for winter.

It is necessary to water the orchard abundantly during the period of leaf fall, as the root system consumes water and recharges before the onset of the first frost and freezing. upper layers soil.

If the autumn turned out to be rainy, it is not necessary to produce such watering, but if it is dry and more or less warm weather, try to moisten the soil well in the near-trunk circles, and preferably around the entire crown. It is necessary to water abundantly so that the soil over the indicated area is moistened to a depth of 30-40 cm.

The approximate amount of water for a young tree is about 40-60 liters, for an adult the amount of water can reach 150-200 liters.

It is necessary to moisten the soil in the near-stem circles and under the entire crown, because it is in these places that the youngest roots are located. It is advisable to water the tree in several approaches so that the soil is well saturated with moisture. You can arrange portioned watering for 2-3 days. To make it easier for yourself, you can build a small ditch and make an earthen rampart. The diameter of such a structure for young trees is 60-70 cm, for adults - up to 2 m.

It is desirable to water in portions, the water should soak the soil well, it is impossible for water to flow down the trunk.

Protection of seedlings from rodents

This process very simple, but it will take some time, because it all depends on the number of trees in the garden.

Protecting the garden from rodents can be done in the simplest way - wrapping the bole with old tights, spruce branches or craft paper. If there is an opportunity to spend a little money for better protection, we recommend that you strap hardwood for the winter with roofing felt, roofing material, reed mats or special plastic gratings, which qualitatively limit the access of rodents to the trunk.

It is imperative to remove the winding of the stems with the first heat so that the bark of the trees does not support and does not acquire unpleasant diseases.

Spraying in autumn in October

It is rather preventive measure, but it must be applied without fail, even if the tree is not sick with anything. Spraying for fungal infections will help keep the plant from getting sick during the warm days of fall or winter, and also with the first warm spring when it becomes very possible.

Spraying is desirable to be carried out after leaf fall, so that the maximum of the special solution hits the trunk and branches, and does not burn the leaves and poison the fruits before harvesting. Processing is carried out blue vitriol(5%, for a bucket of water 300 g of vitriol). It will be most correct to dilute vitriol in a liter or two hot water, and only then mix with the rest of the volume, since the drug does not dissolve very well in cold water.

Spraying is carried out before protection against rodents and whitewashing boles.

How to cover trees for the winter

Many shrubs and trees do not do well in winter period, especially when the winter is snowless and the ground, along with the roots of plants, is seriously frozen. This fact can lead to plant diseases or even their death, and therefore, some varieties and species must be covered with high quality.

Covering trees for the winter produced very different ways- trunk circles are trampled down with snow, trees are wrapped with spruce branches, covered with special shields. This topic is generally considered difficult, since we would not recommend using the same shelter for different plants. True, they say that garden shields, which can be made with your own hands from wooden planks and roofing felt, do an excellent job with this task. They are installed around young trees and cover them from above. As a result, you get a tree in a dry and more or less warm, enclosed space. There is an opinion that the trunks do not even need to be whitewashed under the shields.

To protect plants under shields from rodents, you can place special “vases” with tar around the garden, which many rodents simply cannot stand. It is advisable to throw in poisons or repellents, since rodents slip under shields much easier than they get to the bark of wrapped trees.

How to prepare an orchard for wintering (video)

The life of trees in winter can be much easier if you provide them with certain care. Winterize your garden and you won't recognize it in spring. Believe me, the next harvest will be more successful, and all the trees that could get sick or die will survive and will definitely supplement it.

The soil around the plants should be mulched not only in spring and summer time, but also in the fall, so that the crops safely overwinter.
Mulch laid in the fall rots by spring and contributes to a better warming of the soil, as well as the rapid germination of crops. But this is only one of the benefits of autumn mulching. What else is mulch good for?

The covering material retains moisture well, so plants planted in autumn do not need watering.
When rotting, the mulch forms an additional layer of humus that nourishes the plants.
Mulched soil suffers less from frost in winter and overheating in spring.
Sheltered land does not crust over after watering or rain.
Mulch protects plants from sudden changes in temperature.
Fewer weeds grow on mulched soil in the spring.
Mulching beds and tree trunks should be done in late autumn, when the top layer of soil is already beginning to freeze. This is necessary so that rodents do not settle in the mulch, looking for a warm place for wintering.

It is important to understand that the desired effect of mulch can only be achieved if you do not spare the covering material. The thickness of the mulch layer should reach 5-10 cm, otherwise the mulching procedure is in vain.
Everything you need to know about mulch
Beware: Not all types of mulch are created equal!
1. Bark mulching coniferous trees

Advantages

This is one of the most durable materials for mulching. Mulch from the bark of coniferous trees is good for its decorative effect, as well as the ability to stimulate plant growth. Tree bark protects the earth from sudden changes in temperature. In addition, the soil after irrigation does not cake, and an earthen crust does not form on it.

Flaws

Perhaps the main disadvantage in using this mulching material is the laboriousness of its harvesting. It is recommended to compost the bark of coniferous trees before use during the year. Also, this material is not recommended for mulching tomatoes.

What can be mulched with bark:

fruit trees and shrubs,
rhododendrons,
heather and coniferous crops,
cranberries, blueberries.
2. Mulching with compost

Advantages

Compost is one of the most the best materials for soil mulching. It is completely safe for plants, reduces the likelihood of infection with diseases, and is also an excellent fertilizer.

Flaws

As with the bark of coniferous trees, compost must be prepared in advance. Also, a bed of compost can grow more weeds than soil covered with other mulching material.

What can be mulched with compost:

vegetable crops planted before winter,
fruit trees and berry bushes,
grape.
What is the difference between compost and manure? Compost is an organic mass obtained as a result of the decomposition of plant residues, and humus is rotted (or rather, rotted) manure.

3. Mulching with peat

Advantages

Peat is most often used as a mulch in autumn time. Peat mulching before winter is especially indicated on heavy soil prone to crusting. In the spring, this covering material contributes to the early heating of the soil, retains moisture and improves the structure of the soil.

Flaws

It is not recommended to mulch the soil with fresh peat, since it contains a high concentration toxic substances that negatively affect plants. Only certain types of peat can be used for mulching: transitional and lowland.

What can be mulched with peat:

vegetables and herbs planted before winter.
4. Mulching with humus

Advantages

Soil mulching with humus is one of the most effective ways increase its fertility. Such mulch is rich useful substances required for good plant growth. In particular, humus saturates the soil with nitrogen, which is very necessary for garden and horticultural crops in spring time.

Flaws

Mulch from humus can provoke the growth of weeds.

What can be mulched with humus:

trees,
shrubs,
grape,
roses and hardy perennials.
5. Mulching with sawdust

Advantages

Sawdust is an excellent fertilizer for any type of soil (especially in combination with compost). They protect the earth from freezing and can enrich nutrients even the poorest soil.

Flaws

Decaying, sawdust can "pull" nitrogen out of the soil, as well as reduce its fertility. Since the sawdust tightly covers the ground from the sun's rays, in the spring all kinds of bacteria begin to develop in the upper soil layer.

What can be mulched with sawdust:

fruit trees,
raspberries
currant,
blueberry,
cranberries,
grape,
bulb flowers,
winter garden crops.
If possible, use only fresh sawdust. Those that have been stored for a long time, dumped in a heap, can stick together. Dry them thoroughly before use.

6. Mulching with wood shavings

Advantages

Shavings can be used where the soil is rarely cultivated. wood shavings keeps well if kept in a dry place. Like sawdust, shavings repel slugs.

Flaws

Unlike sawdust, shavings rot much longer (about 1 year), so it is often used to cover soil that is practically not dug up (for example, on paths).

What can be mulched with shavings:

trunk circles of trees.
7. Straw mulching

Advantages

Straw enriches the soil with nutrients and increases its fertility. And because this mulching material decomposes slowly, it provides mulched crops with long-term protection and keeps the soil warm.

Flaws

Straw mulch can contain weed seeds, and rodents love to make their winter shelters in it.

What can be mulched with straw:

basil,
garlic,
strawberry,
blackberry,
potatoes planted before winter,
grape.
8. Mulching with needles

Advantages

Needles - available material, which can be collected in the forest. Over time, mixing with the soil, such a mulch will make it looser and more permeable. For mulching plantings on the site, it is best to use pine or spruce litter - they will help prevent the occurrence of gray rot in plants. A dense layer of spruce needles reliably protects the soil from freezing and drying out.

Flaws

Fallen needles emit volatile substances that can adversely affect horticultural crops. Also, needles increase the acidity of the soil, which is very harmful for many plants.

What can be mulched with needles:

strawberries and small strawberries,
blueberry,
cranberries,
hydrangea,
heather,
rhododendrons,
camellia and other plants that prefer acidic and slightly acidic soil.
9. Mulching with dry fallen leaves

Advantages

Dry leaf mulch is a natural covering that nature itself suggested. The leaves quickly decompose and enrich the soil with nutrients. As a result, crops planted in autumn start growing faster in spring.

Flaws

Leaf litter cannot be used to mulch vegetable crops. In a mild and damp winter, the foliage may begin to rot, which will provoke the reproduction of fungi in the soil.

What can be mulched with fallen leaves:

fruit trees and berry bushes.
10. Mulching with pine nut shells

Advantages

Pine nut shell mulch is not only natural, but also very durable. It perfectly retains moisture in the soil, protects plantings from weeds and looks quite decorative. Besides, good layer shell stimulates the formation of beneficial microflora in the soil. shell in winter pine nuts keeps the soil from freezing. In addition, such mulching material is an excellent antiseptic.

Flaws

High price. To mulch even a small area of ​​soil, you will have to spend a lot of money. Also nutshell can attract rodents that can significantly damage plants in the ground.

What can be mulched with pine nut shells:

perennial flowers,
ornamental trees and shrubs,
coniferous plants.

As you can see, there are quite a few options for mulch, so every gardener and gardener will be able to mulch plantings before a harsh winter. You just need to choose the type of mulch that suits you best.

One of the basic techniques that any farmer should master is soil mulching. In the garden, mulch performs many functions by helping to preserve the soil. But any agricultural technique becomes useful only with a competent approach. In the article we will talk about mulching trees and bushes in the garden, consider the main methods.

The biological meaning of soil mulching

Mulching is covering the surface of cultivated soil with a layer of organic or inorganic material. In nature, there is no bare ground under the trees. It is always covered with fallen leaves or covered with growing grass. This natural mechanism performs the following functions:

• protects the soil from erosion;
• prevents evaporation of moisture from the upper layers;
• improves air exchange, preventing the appearance of a soil crust;
• protects the roots of plants from overheating in the heat and from freezing in winter;
• becomes a barrier to the penetration of insect pests and pathogenic microorganisms;
• becomes a source carbon dioxide and nutrients for plants;
• increases the activity of useful soil flora and fauna.

Observing nature, people began to intuitively use this soil protection mechanism, using different means. Depending on the materials used, mulching is divided into two types - organic and inorganic.

Mulching as an agrotechnical technique arose due to observations of nature.

3 mistakes when using mulch in the garden

Wanting to benefit their trees, gardeners sometimes make a number of mistakes:

1. Leaves fallen from fruit trees are used as mulch. Leaf litter can be infected with spores of pathogenic fungi. Such mulch, instead of being useful, harms the garden, becoming a source of infection.
2. Lay mulch on unheated soil. Mulching materials absorb Sun rays and prevent the soil from warming up in the spring.
3. Lay a thick layer of mulch in damp weather. In rainy spring or summer, putrefactive bacteria develop in waterlogged mulch that can damage the bark of trees and shrubs.

Tip #1 Sometimes a thick layer of packed mulch becomes dense and loses breathability. Such mulching will also not benefit the garden. Mulch needs to be turned up from time to time, and the soil under it must be combed with a rake.

Mulching trees with organic materials

For mulching trunk circles in orchard various natural materials can be used:

Mulch material	Advantages	Flaws
Mowed lawn grass	Most accessible view mulch. It contains a lot of nitrogen and, when decomposed, becomes a good top dressing for trees. Activates the activity of soil microorganisms.	If the grass has had time to seed, it can not be used. In the undried green mass, slugs and snails often start up.
cut nettle	Decomposes very quickly. Contains a lot of nitrogen and potassium. Repels slugs and snails, suppresses pathogenic microorganisms.	Not detected.
Chopped straw or hay	Suppresses the growth of pathogenic microorganisms, does not cause waterlogging. Repels slugs and snails.	Attracts mice and other rodents that can damage tree bark. It shatters in windy weather. Often contains weed seeds.
Needles and cones	Prevents the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Retains looseness, does not cake. Repels slugs and snails. Gives a decorative touch to the garden.	Acidifies the soil. Contains few nutrients.
Bark and chips	Suppresses the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Doesn't sag. Well insulates root system in winter. Repels slugs and snails. Gives a decorative touch to the garden.	It takes a long time to decompose and acidify the soil. When decomposed, it takes nitrogen from the soil.
Peat	It retains moisture well and insulates the root system. When decomposed, it forms a lot of humus. Activates beneficial soil flora.	In the heat contributes to overheating of the soil. In hot weather, it forms a crust, impairing air exchange.
Compost	Perfectly nourishes the trees, activates the soil flora and the activity of earthworms. Doesn't sag. Retains moisture well.	Not detected.
rotted manure	Contains a large number of nitrogen. It decomposes quickly, emits a lot of carbon dioxide. Activates the soil flora and the work of earthworms.	May contain weed seeds. Without embedding in the ground, it loses a lot of nitrogen.

Mulching trees with inorganic mulch

Inorganic materials used for mulching have significantly fewer features than organics. Inorganic mulch only protects the soil from erosion and moisture loss. The following materials can be used for mulching near-stem circles of garden trees and shrubs:

Mulch material	Advantages	Flaws
Polyethylene film	Retains moisture well. Suppresses the growth of weeds. The black film contributes to the rapid heating of the soil. The latest color and photoselective films have a positive effect on the yield of undersized shrubs.	Creates Greenhouse effect overheating the soil summer period. Under the films, ants and slugs start up. There are difficulties with root feeding of trees.
Agrotextile (spunbond, agrospan, lutrasil, etc.)	Well passes water and air. Does not cause overheating of the soil. Black mulching textiles help the soil warm up quickly in spring.	Limits the possibility of root feeding.
Cardboard	It suppresses the growth of weeds well. skips rain water. Decaying.	In hot weather, it draws water from the soil. Low decorative. Slugs gather under the cardboard and mold forms.
Expanded clay, gravel and crushed stone	Passes water and air. Accumulates solar heat and reduces temperature fluctuations. Gives a decorative look.	Overgrown with weeds that are inconvenient to weed out. Limits the possibility of root feeding.
Sackcloth	Passes water and air, does not overheat the soil. Suppresses the growth of weeds.	Doesn't hold moisture well. Low decorative.

To give the garden a special decorative effect, you can use colored gravel for mulching.

Mulching the garden by weeding

One option for mulching fruit plantations is growing under and between trees. lawn grass. This method is called tinkering. Tinned soil naturally retains moisture and all the qualities of fertility.

It is important to keep in mind that full grassing is only suitable for an adult garden. Around the seedlings, it is still necessary to leave the near-trunk circle without grass, mulching it with something else.

Applying this method, you should pay attention to the mulching of the lawn itself. The soil on it also needs care. A lawn mower with a mulching function will be of great help in this. It turns the mowed grass into a fine chaff and evenly scatters it on the grass between the trees.

A good and inexpensive mower with mulching is produced by Greenworks. For example, model 2505107 has a grass catcher. With it, you can collect ready-made mulch and scatter it yourself around the trees. Another worthy option in terms of value for money is the Champion LM4215 mower.

How to properly mulch trees and shrubs?

When mulching tree trunks, the following rules must be followed:

1. Do not push the mulch close to the root collar. An indent of 5-10 cm is necessary so that the neck does not rot and rot.
2. Spring mulching should be carried out after warming up the soil at a depth of 20 cm to + 12-14⁰С.
3. In the fall, replace undecomposed organic mulch with peat or sawdust.
4. When using cut grass as mulch, it must be dried beforehand.
5. Spread mulch only wet soil- after rain or watering. Read also the article: → "".

How to water mulched soil

If a permeable material is used, water directly through the mulch cover. It is curious that mulched soil has to be watered much less frequently than open soil. This is due to the mechanism of the so-called "auto-irrigation": warm air under the mulch it cools, and water vapor falls out of it in the form of dew.

To prevent thick layers of organic mulch from molding with moisture, they need to be turned from time to time. EM preparations will help to quickly decompose the biomass into components and prevent it from rotting.

Tip #2 You can speed up the mineralization of organic matter by mixing mulch with mineral fertilizers.

How to fertilize mulched soil

Using organic mulch reduces the need for regular tree feeding. Mulch itself is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer. You can add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in spring and summer:

Name	Feeding time
AVA	Start of sap flow
"Kafom K"	Before or after flowering
"Fertika Autumn"

To improve the characteristics of the soil, as well as to maintain the qualitative composition of the soil, tree mulching. This procedure not only keeps the soil from the action of the sun (prevents the formation of a crust), but also keeps moisture from evaporating.

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Why mulch the soil

To begin with, let's understand what is tree mulching and why is it used in garden plots. In fact, mulching is covering the soil with special materials (mulch). All materials are divided into two groups: organic and inorganic.

Organics include: wood waste (sawdust, bark, shavings), plants (freshly cut grass, straw, hay, nettles), as well as moss and needles. Popular inorganic mulch: paper (newsprint, cardboard), film (black, red - foreign novelty, transparent - rarely used).

Mulching fruit trees performs the following functions:

• Warming of the root system (the soil does not freeze through);
• Reflection of sunlight (if light mulch is used);
• Preservation of moisture, prevention of rapid evaporation;
• Weed control (they do not grow through coatings);
• Provides preservation of friability of the soil.

Experienced gardeners note that in mulched lands, trees take on more adventitious roots, which positively affects their development.

So let's consider how to properly mulch trees to achieve maximum results. Since the mulch will serve as a shield from environment, before covering the soil, it is advisable to add useful trace elements to it and saturate it with organic matter. It is especially important to feed the plants if you plan to cover the soil with inorganic materials. Mulch should cover all tree trunks.

Thickness of organic coating layer:

• Straw, hay, freshly cut grass - 10-15 cm;
• Nettle (finely crushed) - 5 cm;
• sawdust - about 7 cm;
• Bark for mulching trees - from 5 cm or more;
• Moss - about 10 cm.
• Needles (overripe) - 3-5 cm.

Almost all inorganic mulch is laid in one layer (all types of film and cardboard), newsprint is spread in several layers (minimum 4). Unlike artificial turf, organic matter serves less, but, decomposing, saturates the soil with useful microelements.

Recall that our professional gardeners will help to mulch the garden. We will perform all the work as quickly as possible, efficiently and inexpensively! :)

Peculiarities different types mulch

• To protect against severe overheating of the soil is suitable mulching trees with sawdust or other light materials. Like a mirror, they reflect the sun's rays. In addition, moisture practically does not evaporate from under the material, even on hot days.
• To saturate the earth with useful trace elements, you can use mulching garden trees with nettles. It decomposes quickly and contains nitrogen, which has a positive effect on the growth of trees. Freshly cut grass is also useful, but unlike nettle, it takes a little longer to break down into useful substances.
• Mulching with tree bark used to retain moisture and for decorative purposes. It practically does not "exterminate" weeds, harmful plants germinate calmly through a layer of bark 3-4 cm. Straw or hay, as well as artificial mulch, will help to overcome weeds.
• Mulching trees for the winter is best done with the help of moss. It perfectly retains heat, so moss is often used in intensive gardens, that is, sites planted with columnar trees. Due to the conservation of heat by moss, the ground practically does not freeze, which is very important for all plants with a root system close to the soil surface.
• inorganic mulch most commonly used for evaporative protection. As a heater, only cardboard or roofing material is suitable (they are often replaced with a film).