Construction of a wooden fence is not difficult: with the help of nails and self-tapping screws, you can fasten everything - veins, picket fences, boards, hang gates and wickets. This is exactly what they do when the length of the fence is short and it is of a decorative nature, for example, when fencing a front garden.

To make a fence around the site, more durable materials are also used - for example, brick or metal. And in this case, difficulties always arise in attaching the fence elements to each other. How to weld logs to poles? Is it possible to do without welding? What types of brackets are there and can you make them yourself? How to provide correct location prozhilin?

How to weld veins?

Let's consider options for fastening veins from profile pipe 40x20 mm for posts made of different materials. This is today the most popular way to build a fence quickly and at the lowest cost. Correctly fasten the logs for the fence; filling the space between the posts will not be difficult. For this, corrugated sheets are usually used. different sizes and waveforms.

1. An option when the veins run in a continuous line along the entire fence. How many there are is determined by the height of the fence. The lower logs are fixed 30 cm from the ground, the upper ones 30 cm from the top of the sheet. At a height of more than 2 meters, an additional vein in the middle is recommended. The logs are pressed with clamps to pillars made of a profile or ordinary metal pipe, the horizontalness is checked with a level and welded. The next section of the profile is joined end-to-end; the seam does not have to be placed on the post. With this method there is virtually no waste. If the pillars are made of a different material ( asbestos cement pipe, concrete), then the veins are attached to brackets or strips of metal pre-fixed on poles. Installing such posts is a troublesome task. The brackets must be at the same level. Another way is to make clamps from strip steel and install them on the pole in the desired location.
2. A sectional fence looks prettier. A solid line of corrugated sheeting is divided into equal intervals by columns, appearance which must be flawless. Usually a pipe Ø75-100 mm or a square 60x60 mm or more is used. In this case, the veins are cut according to the distance between the posts (2.5-3 m) and welded to the posts in such a way that after attaching the profiled sheet or picket fence they do not “protrude.” To do this, take into account the wave height of the material.

Disadvantages of fastening by welding

First, you need to have a welding machine and know how to use it. All metal parts of the fence are painted in advance. At welding work coverage is broken finished products. Welding areas must be thoroughly cleaned, primed and painted with two layers of paint. Installing the veins at a level causes certain difficulties: without an assistant, it is difficult to weld the logs for the fence and secure the corrugated sheets.

If you have a fence open type(picket fence, wickerwork), then there are more requirements for the appearance of welds.

Fastening without welding

There are two ways to fasten veins without welding: with bolts and nuts and with the help of special brackets.

Bolted connections must be prepared: marked, holes drilled. Then sometimes you have to hide the head of the bolt. Yes, and this is not always possible.

Fastening with X-brackets is very convenient.

Fastening fence veins using X bracket

They are produced in several variants, but they differ only in the accuracy of execution. This is a cross-shaped structure with edges curved in different planes and with holes for fastening. The vertical part “hugs” fence post 60x60 mm, a vein is placed in the horizontal one. After checking the correct level of installation through the mounting holes, the bracket is screwed to the post, then the vein is fixed. The connection is ready. The next vein is inserted, set horizontally, and the process is repeated on the adjacent post. All fence logs are secured in the same way.

Ease of mounting with brackets

Brackets are produced for external and internal fastening to posts, for connecting profiles along the length; with their help you can “rotate” the fence. The main size is for posts 60x60 and veins 40x20, but X-brackets are also produced for other sizes of profile pipe. Assembly is done quickly using roofing screws. You can just as quickly remove it and correct the error or use it in another place. Steel 2 mm, protective coating They guarantee a long service life and are very easy to replace during repairs.

Homemade brackets

You can make a bracket for attaching the logs yourself. To do this, it is enough to weld two channels of suitable size at right angles and drill mounting holes. It may not be as pretty, but it will get the job done.

The most convenient combination of sizes and materials are fence posts and logs made from profile pipes 60x60 mm (80x80 mm) and 40x20 mm. It is easy to purchase all the mounting elements for them: fasteners, decorations, plugs.

• Carefully level the veins and pillars.
• Try to place connecting seams on the posts, especially when the fence is not continuous.
• Don't forget to treat weld seams.
• Observe safety precautions when working with tools.

A beautiful and reliable fence surrounding a country house or personal plot has long been business card real owner, and the appearance of profiled galvanized steel sheet with additional polymer protection, giving it an original appearance and a rich palette of colors, has greatly simplified and reduced the cost of constructing fences of any size.

An important element of the fence design

Load-bearing posts and logs for a fence made of modern corrugated board can be made from any available materials available to the developer and providing sufficient load-bearing capacity, determined by the size of the fence.

Fence base made of profiled sheets

Reference: The basis of any building structure, to which we can safely include a fence made of profiled steel sheet is a strong frame obtained by connecting support pillars and transverse joists, onto which the corrugated sheeting is actually attached.

Traditionally, the basis of the fence was wooden structures from timber of a certain thickness, specially treated various compositions for weather protection. IN lately, especially when constructing a fence made of corrugated sheets, a profile pipe is used as posts and logs, which ensures high structural strength with smaller linear dimensions, and the use of specialized fasteners greatly reduces the labor intensity of the work performed.

Very often used combined options fences, when the posts and base are made of artificial or natural stone, and the fence cloth is made of corrugated sheeting fixed to metal or wooden logs.

Made of wood

Wood frame

As wooden logs for a fence made of corrugated board, a beam with a cross section of 40x50 mm or 50x60 mm is used when the distance between the posts does not exceed 2.5 m. In this case, the resulting structure is able to withstand wind loads without damage. Wooden joists must be made from dried wood without large quantity knots and traces of damage by pests and fungi.

Logs prepared for installation are impregnated with protective antiseptic compounds and covered with paints and varnishes, preferably based on natural drying oil. This protection provides wooden joists with a fairly long service life.

Advice: If necessary, during operation, the coating destroyed by atmospheric influences is renewed, which requires additional costs when using wood as a supporting structure for a corrugated fence.

From rolled metal

Metal profile frame

As the basis for a fence made of corrugated sheets, logs made from rolled metal of various profiles are most often used. This can be a corner with a shelf of 40-50 mm, a channel or a profile pipe of dimensions 20x40 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 or 2 mm. Usage profile metal pipe as a lag for a fence made of corrugated sheets, it is most suitable both from the point of view of obtaining maximum structural strength, as well as the appearance and safety of using the rear part of the fence, when all fasteners are hidden inside the pipe profile.

Advice: Increasing the size of the profile pipe by 10 mm allows you to increase the distance between the pillars on which the canvas is mounted to 3-3.5 m, which reduces the cost of installing pillars and allows you to divide the canvas into equal parts for any length of the fenced area. To ensure protection metal structures from weather influences are applied paint and varnish materials on a glyphthalic, pentaphthalic or acrylic base.

Mounting methods

Mounting options

Depending on the material of the pillars and logs used in the construction of fences made of corrugated sheets, various fastening methods structural elements among themselves:

• Fastening by placing pillars in special niches;
• Threaded connection of elements;
• Fastening with nails or self-tapping screws, used when fastening wooden structural elements;
• Connecting metal structures using welding.

Each of the listed methods has the right to life and provides reliable connection depending on the structural materials used to construct the fence. How many fasteners are needed is calculated based on the total load on the fence sheet and the load-bearing capacity of one fastening element with some margin to ensure guaranteed strength.

To connect metal elements of corrugated sheet fencing, specialized fasteners are used to ensure the strength of the connection at the level of the welded structure. These elements have the undeniable advantage that assembly is carried out without the use of complex equipment and, if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled for repair or dismantled for transfer.

Advice: Using ready-made fasteners, there is no need to calculate how many of certain elements are needed. The fastener is equipped with everything necessary and is completely ready for installation. The connection of metal structures is carried out in such a way that there is no need to select the length of the logs depending on the distance between the pillars, this contributes to significant savings in material.

The required amount to ensure the strength of the fence

The strength of the fence being built directly depends on the height of the fence and the number of logs installed between the posts as a supporting structure. If the distance between the supports does not exceed 3 m, and the height of the fence is within 1-5 - 1.7 m, two logs located at the same distance of approximately 200 - 300 mm from the edges of the profiled sheet are sufficient. If the height of the profiled sheet exceeds 2 meters, it is necessary to install three pieces, and the distance from the top and bottom of the sheet remains the same, and the resulting distance between the logs is divided in half.

For the construction of fences, the so-called wall profiled sheet with a profile height of no more than 20 mm is used, for fastening which special fasteners are used, depending on the material of the supporting structure. How many fasteners are needed for linear meter flooring is specified in the manufacturer's recommendations.

Important! The number of fasteners should not be reduced to less than 4 screws per 1 meter of flooring. When attaching the upper part of the canvas, the number of fasteners even needs to be increased slightly, which will increase the wind resistance of the finished fence.

How many joists and fasteners are needed? for each type of fence depends on several factors:

• Thickness of the profiled sheet;
• Height of the profiled sheet;
• Distance between supports and total length fencing;
• Maximum wind loads accepted for the relevant area.

When calculating the number of load-bearing elements, it should be taken into account that the use of materials with other linear dimensions or wall thickness will require an additional recalculation of the strength of the structure and some adjustments to the number of pillars, joists and fasteners.

The assembly of logs by welding is shown in the video:

Installation of fences requires the use of high-quality fastening components that can provide the fences with the proper strength and durability. Apart from posts, one of the most important structural elements of a fence can be confidently called logs, or veins. The veins are horizontal jumpers on which spans of fences made of corrugated sheets are installed, metal picket fence or wooden fences. Logs (veins) are attached to the supporting fence posts mainly by welding. However, today this is not the most best solution. Welded joints often do not look aesthetically pleasing, but the main thing is that over time they rust and require constant maintenance. The joints that have been welded must be constantly repainted, since during the fastening process damage to the protective layer of metal, which protects the structure from corrosion, is inevitable. It is also worth noting that welding cannot be used everywhere; in particular, this requires access to electrical networks, which are not always available in the places where the fence is being built. Using a generator incurs additional costs.

In this regard, today fastening connections are becoming increasingly popular: fasteners for poles and joists, as well as x-brackets. They are not much inferior in strength characteristics to welding, and at the same time have a number of undeniable advantages. Fastening connections greatly increase the speed of installation; in addition, already attached joists can be easily removed and installed back or in a new location. When installing fence spans using fasteners, damage to their protective layer painted with primer enamels, galvanized or powder coating is excluded.

Holder for fence joists Fasteners for posts and joists are made according to a different principle: bent ones are used metal elements from sheet metal, which are connected to each other by industrial welding, after which they are coated with zinc-containing primer and powder paint. Metal fasteners for poles are available different models and standard sizes.

X-brackets are produced by stamping from an all-metal sheet and subsequent processing of the products by hot-dip galvanizing. The result is a cross-shaped structure with curved edges with holes for attaching the x-bracket to the fence post and attaching the joists.

Installation of fastenings for fence posts and joists

The process of installing a fence made of corrugated sheets, metal picket fences or wooden fences using fasteners is quite simple. On support pillars The fence is marked at the places where the fasteners are attached. The fastener is applied to the table, a log is inserted into it, the horizontalness of which is checked building level. Then, the mount is screwed to the post using bolts or roofing screws. The X-bracket is attached using the same principle.

Installation of logs using holders

The fasteners are easy to use. Their use can significantly speed up installation processes and significantly improve the aesthetics, reliability and quality of fence construction. Our company provides turnkey fence installation services and performs individual species works: drilling holes for fence posts, installing metal posts from round and profile pipes, installing logs using a welded method or using fasteners, installing corrugated sheets and other construction work.

How to attach veins to round fence posts? [QUESTION]

Installed metal pipes as fence posts, the question arose of attaching “ears” to attach the veins to the posts. But I didn’t find any information on the Internet about what size it is recommended to make these “ears”; I don’t have enough experience to determine this. The veins are planned to be wooden, 100x50 mm, span length 2.5 m; pillars d=76 mm What height, thickness and length is better to make “ears” so that it is convenient to mount the veins and the fastening is reliable? And what is the best way to attach the veins to the ears - with bolts, nails or some other way?

Answer: Let’s talk about veins right away; they are absolutely useless at such sizes. Especially with such a small span. 60x40 mm, as they say, “for the eyes.”

As for the “ears”, they are generally not needed. Drill your pipe through and fasten the veins with ordinary bolts with an M 10 thread 120 mm long as shown in the figure. To prevent them from unwinding, use Grover washers. You can cut the ends of the bolts a couple of millimeters so that they protrude beyond the nut and rivet them.

Place the bolt heads into the vein.

Unfortunately, you did not specify the material of the fence.

The construction of a fence around the perimeter of the site requires strict adherence to construction regulations at all stages of work. The slightest deviation from established standards can cause deformation of the fence. Before you start building a fence, for example, from corrugated board, you should know exactly how to install the posts, how to fasten the corrugated sheet, what fixing products to use (screws, bracket, clamp, rivets).

This is what self-tapping screws with rubber washers look like for screwing corrugated sheeting to the fence frame

Fastening fence logs from light building materials, for example, corrugated sheets, picket fences or wooden planks, must be carried out only with the use of high-quality components. In former times, fence logs made of corrugated sheets were attached to the support screw piles welding method. Such work could only be done by professionals and required the presence of electricity and welding equipment on site. Fences made by welding did not always look like an example of aesthetics and required constant anti-corrosion treatments at the attachment points.

Modern fences for personal plots are mainly modular fences made without welding, which are easy to assemble, original and durable. They are kits consisting of supports, sections and fasteners.

Option for attaching cross beams to fence posts

Fasteners for such fences also comply modern trends. In most cases metal frames fastened using devices such as a clamp or bracket.

IN recent years The well-proven x-fastener for fences is very popular, providing quick, aesthetic and quality connection. Any fastener for corrugated sheeting or other sectional fabric is a product specifically designed for construction work. Fastening the corrugated sheet logs using modern methods Even beginners can fix it.

Fasteners for corrugated sheeting on the fence are made of high-quality steel coated with anti-corrosion powder or zinc. Various fasteners and additional components are provided for logs, posts and fence panels, for example, rivets, a clamp or a suitable bracket.

Example of clamps various types for attaching corrugated sheets to poles

You can buy these accessories at any specialized market, in online stores or in construction goods supermarkets.

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Fence fasteners for corrugated sheets are presented in two main types:

• Bracket or x-bracket;
• Fasteners for joists and posts.

The clamp, bracket or rivets are designed for different types of fixation. Their correct combination will help to firmly connect the pillars and horizontal veins (joists). Anyone can buy these parts, and their ease of use does not require any experience or application special devices and devices.

Drawing possible options attaching joists to poles

Thanks to products such as fasteners for corrugated sheets, polycarbonate, picket fences or wood, the construction of fences of any complexity is greatly facilitated.

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Fasteners for corrugated sheets, for example, a bracket, are made by stamping from a hot sheet of metal. The fastening clamp, with which the pillars are connected to the joists, is made from bent metal parts welded to each other.

The finished bracket is subjected to hot-dip galvanizing, and the welded fasteners are painted with protective powder paints.

These accessories provide the fence with aesthetics, good wear resistance and strong fixation for the entire service life. Attaching corrugated sheets to the fence using fasteners is becoming an increasingly popular way of connecting structures.

Scheme of correct fastening of a corrugated sheet to the frame

The advantages of using this fixation method include the following:

• Convenience and ease of connection;
• Availability;
• Fast pace of installation;
• All joining points look beautiful and neat;
• There is no need for electricity and welding machines;
• The integrity of the top layer of mounted structures is maintained.

Special fasteners for corrugated sheets, such as a clamp, help connect posts, crossbars and fence sections firmly and efficiently. At the same time, the elements of the fence are not subjected to rough impact and mechanical damage.

This connection gives the fence external beauty, integrity and ensures its long service life. If you need to rearrange the pillars, change the fastening of the joists, or dismantle the fence, then this can be done without damaging the prefabricated components.

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Most often around country houses and land plots fences are being built from corrugated sheets.
This material is versatile, strong, affordable and durable. The corrugated sheet is used as a fence covering throughout. Even a novice builder can easily learn to work with it. A wide range of colors and an assortment of canvases made from profiled sheets adds to its popularity. You can buy a quality product in many stores across the country at a relatively low price.

The material consists of a sheet of steel that has been galvanized and treated with anti-corrosion treatment. On top protective layers primer is applied. The last coating of the product - a fence made of corrugated sheets - is covered with paint with polymer components. To prevent the canvas from being damaged during the construction of the fence, only special fasteners, such as a clamp or brackets, must be used to secure it.

Wooden logs are required to ensure natural ventilation underground space and better heat retention in rooms. Thanks to the use of lag flooring can last much longer. However, among people who do not have much experience in the construction business, you can often hear the question of whether it is necessary to attach the logs to concrete floor? Experienced craftsmen know that for a truly durable flooring that does not change its geometry under load, and for its long service life, it is imperative to correctly fix the logs on any supporting structure, including on a concrete screed.

Now that it is clear whether it is necessary to attach the joists to the concrete floor, it is worth noting that this task is not difficult, does not require special skills and knowledge, and, therefore, can be done by any home craftsman.

• Materials and tools
  • Fasteners
  • Tips for choosing lags
  • Tools
• Methods for installing joists on a concrete floor
  • Fastening the log to a metal corner
  • Attaching the joists to concrete pillars
• Step-by-step instructions for attaching joists to concrete with your own hands
• Step between joists

Materials and tools

Fasteners

The question of how to secure joists to a concrete floor has different answers: simple or adjustable structures can be used for this. The latter use special screws, by tightening which the logs can be leveled. In addition, the choice of fasteners and fastening methods depends on what kind of joists are used.

Most often, the lags are fastened to the concrete floor with metal anchors or self-tapping screws with polypropylene dowels, the dimensions of which are selected depending on the cross-section of the selected beam for the lags.

The choice between anchor nails or self-tapping screws is determined by the following:

• Self-tapping screws are cheaper, of course, but anchors are more reliable. In practice, fastening with self-tapping screws is almost always sufficient.
• The advantage of anchors is that in addition to fixing the beams, they tightly press the logs to the base. This becomes especially important when the finishing coating is quite heavy and is regularly subjected to mechanical stress - this must be taken into account when choosing the method of how to properly attach the joists to the concrete floor.

At modern technologies the logs under the wooden floor could not be secured at all, however, such a solution would greatly increase the likelihood of the floor covering being skewed or the logs moving from their original location. Therefore, when it comes to fastening lags, it is best to rely on old methods that have been time-tested more than once.

However, fastening may not help if low-quality or unsuitable lumber or incorrect fasteners are chosen for the work.

When choosing logs for a concrete floor, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• type of wood;
• type of lumber;
• length and section;
• price.

For reasons of economic feasibility, you should not take expensive wood, because spruce, fir or pine are correct processing can last no less. Doesn't have special significance and the appearance of the material, however, it is necessary to discard specimens eaten by grinders or blackened by mold. Evenness of tone and correct geometry of the lag are of less importance. For this work, grades B and BC with a humidity not exceeding 20% ​​are suitable. As is customary to work with lumber, they should be stored in a dry room for some time so that they equalize the humidity with the surrounding atmosphere.

All wooden elements Before attaching the joists to the concrete floor, you need to thoroughly soak it with an antiseptic.

Tools

Since the task is how to lay logs on a concrete floor, you will have to use the following tools in your work:

• Drill and hammer drill.
• Carpentry tools: circular saw, hacksaw, plane.

In addition, you will have to spend money on waterproofing, which must be spread over the entire surface of the concrete. When calculating the amount of material, you need to add another 10-15 cm overlap to the floor area.

Methods for installing joists on a concrete floor

Methods for attaching joists to a concrete floor come down to four main options, after familiarizing yourself with which, any master can choose the most suitable one for himself.

This the simplest way fastening the lag, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable in every situation.

1. First, you need to drill holes in the timber to match the diameter of the plastic dowel, and use a hammer drill to make a counter hole in the concrete.
2. Then the dowels are driven in with a hammer, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them or dowel-nails are driven deep into the ceiling.
3. The head of the screw should sink a few centimeters into the hole.

People often ask, what step of attaching the joists to the concrete floor is better? There is no strict standard here - the step can vary from 40 cm to 80 cm, but on average you can safely focus on half a meter.

The logs will hold securely enough only when there is a small gap between the base and the beam. This should definitely be taken into account by those who want to know how to properly lay joists on a concrete floor.

Anchors, unlike self-tapping screws, not only rigidly fix the logs, but also attract them to the concrete surface. Thanks to this installation wooden beams will hold more securely, which is why most craftsmen prefer to use anchors. In addition, this powerful fastener will restrain the deformation of the wood to a certain extent, especially if it has not been sufficiently dried beforehand. But it is much more difficult to pull an anchor out of a concrete base than to drive it in, so workers will have to spend a lot of effort during dismantling.

Be that as it may, when using anchors, the floor covering will not swell, but it may sag. To avoid the latter, it is necessary to install gaskets more often.

1. Installation of logs on a concrete floor here begins with drilling through holes in the beam.
2. Then, opposite each of them, counter holes are made in the concrete.
3. After that anchor bolt inserted into both holes and tightened with a spanner or open-end wrench. It is important not to overtighten the bolt, otherwise it will bend the beam, especially when there is a gap in this place. Then there will be a depression in the finished field.

Before installing the anchor, you need to drill a hole in the beam larger diameter so that the bolt head fits there.

The anchors should be spaced at intervals of 60-100 cm, and their length should be sufficient for them to penetrate approximately 6 cm into the concrete. Most often, anchors with a diameter of 10 mm are used. Typically one joist is held in place by 4-5 anchors.

Video about attaching joists to a concrete floor with anchors:

Fastening the log to a metal corner

It becomes inconvenient to work with logs 10 or more centimeters high. To attach them it is better to use steel corners, which will be in contact with the joist with one shelf, and with the concrete base with the other. Fixation in in this case It is done: to concrete - with dowels and nails, and to timber - with self-tapping screws. In this case, the main load should fall on the gaskets, and not on fasteners, because the corners should only fix the position of the beam.

In order for the lag to be better bonded to the surface, you need to use self-tapping screws whose threads do not reach the head.

You can also attach wooden elements to a concrete base using a galvanized steel corner. The installation process is as follows:

1. Attach the corner to the joist using self-tapping screws, which should go at least 30 mm into the wood.
2. Attach the corner to the concrete base using dowels.

Video on how to secure joists to a concrete floor with corners:

There is another option for attaching joists to a concrete floor. For this, a rectangular stand is used, which is attached to the base with four dowels. In the middle of this stand there is a pin that pierces the beam through and through.

By rotating the nut located under the beam, you can accurately set its height, and use the upper nut to fix the element in the required position.

This system is not that difficult to install; it is attached to the floor with dowels, and you will need to make a hole in the joist for a pin. The frequency of installation of stands under it depends on the cross-section of the log; however, in any case, it is not recommended to make an interval of more than 1 meter. This option of attaching the log to a concrete base, although recognized as optimal, however, due to its high cost, has not become very popular.

After fixing the logs, a subfloor made of boards, OSB or similar materials is laid on them. If the work is done efficiently, the appearance of the finished floor can be impeccable.

Attaching joists to concrete pillars

Logs are attached to concrete pillars in the same way. The same fasteners are used here, but intended for poles.

1. The pillars need to be waterproofed in advance by coating them with simple bitumen or bitumen mastic. The upper cut of the pillars can be waterproofed by placing pieces of roofing material pre-cut according to its configuration on it.
2. Also, in advance, you need to make holes in the bases of the pillars and in the timber into which to drive a dowel or anchor spacer.
3. The beam is attached to the post with a self-tapping screw, the length of which is 2-3 times the width of the spacer.
4. The timber can also be attached with special metal plates equipped with screws. For this purpose, they are screwed to the base of the posts with dowel nails, and a through hole is drilled in the joist, into which you will then need to insert a screw and screw the joist to the top of the posts. Thanks to this, the lag will hold tighter.

Step-by-step instructions for attaching joists to concrete with your own hands

Attaching wooden joists to a concrete floor is easy, even on your own. There are several mounting options, and below are the steps of one of the standard methods.

1. Lay waterproofing (roofing felt or plain film from PVC). The joints between the pieces must be secured with special tape.

1. Next, you need to lay out the logs along the floor in a certain step. This step will depend on the material from which the finishing flooring will be made: when using a 25x100 mm tongue and groove board, the logs can be laid with an indent of 70-80 cm, but for other materials the step will need to be reduced to 40 cm.
2. If the length of the material is not enough to cover the entire room, then the elements can be joined using an iron angle or by making cuts that form a connection into a root tenon.
3. Before installing the joists on the concrete floor, you need to take care of the outermost joists that will be located near the walls. They must be laid level, clearly leveling their height by placing wooden planks or pieces of plywood under the beams. Most convenient to use laser level. When the outermost logs are fixed, a nylon thread is stretched between them, which will serve as a guide when installing the remaining logs.
4. To attach timber to a concrete floor, you need to make holes in both. You need to drive a dowel or steel anchor spacer into the hole in the concrete. Each joist must be fixed with at least four anchors, and the screws must be placed 40-60 cm from each other.

1. You need to prepare levelers for the joists in advance - cut chipboard or plywood into even strips. With the help of these elements, the joist structure is fixed in a level position (pieces of plywood are simply placed under the joists if you need to raise them) so that the finishing coating on it does not creak or move.

1. If in concrete base If, on the contrary, there are bulges, then you will have to level the lag not by placing plywood under it, but by selecting part of the material from below using a plane.
2. When all the logs are installed in their places, thermal insulation should be laid between them, for example, expanded clay.

1. Before covering with the topcoat, you should think about laying the necessary communications. It is also advisable to use a vapor barrier layer.

Step between joists

How to properly lay joists on a concrete floor, if for finishing coating will be used different materials? Below is the relationship between the thickness of the floor boards and the distance between the joists:

• with a board thickness of 20 mm, there should be a distance of 20 cm between the logs;
• for boards 25 mm thick, a step of 50 cm will be required;
• for 25 mm – 60 cm;
• for 40 mm – 70 cm;
• for 45 mm – 80 cm;
• for 50 mm – 100 cm.

If the floor is plywood, then the step between the joists is determined differently:

• with a plywood thickness of 15-18 mm, a lag pitch of 40 cm is required;
• at 22 mm – 60 cm.

Which method do you prefer to attach joists to a concrete floor, and why? Share your opinion or experience in the comments.

One of the most inexpensive fences for a summer house or private home is made from corrugated sheets. Its design is simple - dug pillars to which are attached cross beams. A corrugated sheet is attached to this grille using self-tapping screws or rivets. Everything is really easy, especially if you know how to use it welding machine. Although there is a technology without welding - on bolts or on wooden crossbars. In any case, you can build a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands. If necessary, you can do all the work alone, but when installing sheets it is more convenient with an assistant.

Construction with metal posts

The simplest production is a fence with metal posts dug into the ground. You can use round or square pipes, but it is more convenient to work with square - profiled ones.

The length of the pillars is taken depending on the desired height of the fence, plus 1 to 1.5 meters are added for penetration into the ground. It is necessary to bury it in the ground below the freezing depth of the soil. For each region, the soil freezes to a different depth, but in Middle lane In Russia it is about 1.2 m. When determining the depth to which you bury pipes, it is better to play it safe and make the holes deeper. Otherwise, the forces of winter heaving will simply push the posts out, and your fence will collapse (see photo).

For pillars, a profiled pipe with a cross section of 60*60 mm and a wall thickness of 3 mm is usually taken. The distance between the pillars is from 2 to 3 meters. The greater the thickness of the corrugated sheet, the less often you can install pillars. If the soil is difficult to dig, it makes sense to make the distances larger, otherwise you can save on purchasing metal - the thinner, the cheaper and the difference in price is significant.

Logs for a fence made of corrugated sheets are made from a profile pipe 40*20 or 30*20 mm. Second option - wooden blocks 70*40 or so. When using wood, a significant amount is saved, but the wood disappears faster, and besides, it warps from moisture. Most likely, in a few years you will have to change the logs, and they will already be metal. But it will work as an economical option for several years.

Making a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands wooden joists, do not forget to thoroughly treat the wood with an antibacterial compound (for example, Senezh Ultra). It is better to do this in the bathroom - immerse the bars completely in the solution for 20 minutes. This way they will last longer.

The number of logs depends on the height of the fence. Up to 2 meters - two are enough, from 2.2 to 3.0 meters you need 3 guides, even higher - 4.

Methods for attaching joists to poles

Metal logs are welded either between the pillars or in front. The first method is more labor-intensive, and produces more waste: you have to cut the pipes into pieces. But with this arrangement of the logs, the structure turns out to be more rigid: each post serves as a support for the sheet and it “walks” less; if desired, a couple of additional fasteners can be placed along it.

If you weld pipes in front of a pole (from the street side), there is less work, but you will still have to cut and there will be waste: it is necessary that the weld of two sections falls on the pole. Unless you adjust the distance so that they lie flat. Then you purchase materials in advance, and then calculate the installation step of the pillars.

To fasten wooden blocks, holders are welded in front or on the sides - metal corners or U-shaped guides. Holes are then drilled into them and fastened with bolts or self-tapping screws.

There is an option to assemble a fence from corrugated sheets without welding. For this there is a special fastening element called an X-bracket. This is a cross-shaped plate with curved edges, which is attached to self-tapping screws.

Corrugated sheeting for fences

For fences, corrugated sheets marked C are used - for fences and walls. There are also N and NS, but they are not suitable for fences - that’s more roofing materials. It is rare to see A and R markings; A profiles can be used for fences.

In the marking, after the letter there is a number - from 8 to 35. It indicates the height of the rib in millimeters. So C8 means that the profiled sheet is intended for a fence, and the wave height is 8 mm. The higher the wave height, the more rigid the surface will be. In strong winds, take at least C10, or even C20.

Sheet thickness - from 0.4 to 0.8 mm. Most best option— thickness 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm. They are suitable for fences up to 2.5 m in height. If you need a higher one, take at least 0.6 mm.

The height of the sheet is usually around 2 meters, you can find 2.5 m. The width can be very different - from 40 cm to 12 meters. Different factories produce corrugated sheets of different formats.

Corrugated sheeting can be galvanized or painted (painted ones are 15-25% more expensive than galvanized ones). There are two types of paint applied: powder and polymer coating. Powder coating is more durable, but also more expensive.

There are sheets painted on one side - on the second there is galvanized sheet metal coated with primer gray, there is - from two. Double-sided coating is naturally more expensive than single-sided painting, but it looks better and has a longer service life.

Support pipes and fence logs are usually primed and then painted. And somehow it became customary to paint them with dark paint. By then attaching a corrugated sheet painted on one side to them, you get a clearly visible “skeleton” on a light gray background. In a small area this can be critical. Please note that when building a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands, paint the supporting frame light gray. The result will please you: it looks much better from the yard.

How to attach a corrugated sheet to a frame

The sheet is secured with self-tapping screws or rivets. Self-tapping screws for corrugated sheets are galvanized and painted. They are selected to match the color of the fence. Tighten with a screwdriver using an attachment.

The installation step depends on the wavelength and fence height. The higher the fence, the more often you need to install fasteners. It holds normally if fastened through a wave to increase strength; with two lags it can be fastened in checkerboard pattern, and not one above the other.

When installing, it is important to align the first sheet vertically. Then everything else will install without problems. When laying sheets, the next one goes onto the one already installed on wave 1. Fasten in bottom part waves. The self-tapping screw must be installed strictly perpendicularly. Then the hole is blocked with a washer and precipitation will not cause the paint to peel off.

To see how one can attach a corrugated sheet to a fence, watch the video.

Do-it-yourself corrugated fence: photo report

A fence from neighbors and a front fence were being built. The total length is 50 meters, height 2.5 m. Brown corrugated sheet is used on the front, galvanized sheet is used on the border, thickness 0.5 mm, grade C8.

In addition, the following materials were sent:

• for poles profiled pipe 60*60 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, pipes 3 m long;
• 80*80 mm with a 3 mm wall were installed on gate posts and gates;
• logs 30*30 mm;
• gate and wicket frame 40*40 mm;

One person built the finished fence from corrugated sheets with his own hands.

The fence is installed on metal posts, between which the base is then poured. The owners need it because they plan to plant a flower garden in front of the fence (you can see the fence made for it). It is also needed to prevent water from flooding the yard during heavy rainfalls. Metal sheets are not attached immediately from the ground, but slightly retreating. This gap is closed with a die-cut tape that remains in some industries. This was done on purpose so as not to block the access of air, so that the earth dries out faster.

Metal preparation

The first stage is preparing the pipes. A rusty pipe arrives from a warehouse; in order for it to serve for a long time, you have to clean off the rust, then treat it with Anti-Rust and then paint it. It is more convenient to first prepare all the pipes, prime and paint, and then just start installation. The rust was removed with a metal brush mounted on an angle grinder.

There were only 6-meter pipes in the warehouse. Since the height of the fence is 2.5 meters, another 1.3 meters need to be buried, the total length of the post should be 3.8 meters. To save money, they cut it in half into 3-meter pieces, and the missing parts were welded with various scrap metal available on the farm: corner cuttings, fittings, pieces different pipes. Then everything was cleaned, primed and painted.

Installation of pillars

The two corner posts were installed first. The holes were drilled with a drill purchased from a store. The soil was normal; it took about 20 minutes to complete one hole 1.3 meters deep.

The first pillar was placed horizontally and so that it rose above the ground to a height of 2.5 meters. To set the second one, it was necessary to recapture the height. A water level was used. You need to fill it in such a way that there are no bubbles - from a bucket, not from a tap, otherwise it will lie.

They placed the second post along the marked mark (they put it on a plank that was placed next to the hole) and concreted it. When the cement set, twine was pulled between the pillars, along which all the others were aligned.

The filling technology was standard: a double-folded roofing material was installed in the hole. A pipe was placed inside, filled with concrete (M250) and placed vertically. The level was controlled by a plumb line. It is very important to position the posts correctly, otherwise the entire fence will warp.

During the work, several times it turned out that the concrete was poured not inside the rolled up roofing material, but between it and the walls of the pit. It was a little pleasure to scoop it out from there, so the protruding part was cut into petals and nailed to the ground with large nails. The problem has been resolved.

After the concrete had set, we made portable formwork from boards covered with thick film. With their help, the basement was filled. To make it stronger, reinforcement bars are welded along the bottom to the pillars on both sides. Formwork was placed around them.

Installing jumpers

Cleaned, primed and painted pipes for the crossbars were cut and welded. They cooked between the pillars. They also need to be leveled to make it easier to attach.

After the welding is completed, all welding areas are cleaned with a wire brush, treated with Anti-Rust and then painted.

Installation of corrugated sheets

Since the top lintel runs along the very top of the fence, and it is welded exactly level, there were no problems with leveling and installing the sheets. First they fastened along the edges, then installed intermediate screws. To make it easier to place them evenly, a thread was pulled between the outer ones.

Evenly installed fasteners are also beautiful

Afterwards the gates were welded and attached. As a final touch, additional elements were installed on top - a U-shaped profile covering the top of the fence and plugs for the pipes.

As you understand, there is nothing particularly complicated. It is important to align the posts evenly and weld the frame. This is the main task. A lot of time - about 60% - is spent preparing pipes - cleaning, priming, painting.

Fence made of corrugated sheets with brick pillars

Of course, a fence with brick pillars looks more decorative. If you wish, you can do it, but it will take more time. There are two options:

• Do a full-fledged strip foundation. But it is long and expensive. On well-drained soils, you can make a shallow foundation; on heaving soils, you will have to dig below the freezing depth of the soil. And although the tape will not be wide, there is a lot of work - digging a trench along the entire length of the fence, installing formwork, tying reinforcement, pouring it and then finishing it. Put on top brick pillars. Durable, reliable, but expensive.
• Make according to the scheme described above: load-bearing pillars with a base. Bricks are laid around the pillars. This method is less expensive. About

The whole technology is the same, only the reinforcement will be more rigid - two belts of two rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It will be necessary to install embedded elements in the pillars to which the guides will be attached. They (mortgages) can be welded to the pipe after it has been exposed and the solution has set.

Photos of the design of fences made of corrugated sheets

Often a profiled sheet is combined with forging, sometimes a frame is made from a profile pipe, a profiled sheet is mounted into it and the whole thing is decorated with metal patterns - forged or welded. Another option to make the fence non-standard is to install the wave not vertically, but horizontally. It would seem like a small change, but the appearance is different. Some ideas in the photo gallery below.