Leveling the ceiling - plaster, applied before putty, which will be discussed below. If the plaster is properly done, it can last for years.

How to prepare the surface

Before plastering the ceiling, it is necessary to prepare the surface for applying the mortar so that the mortar adheres better to it. The ceiling should be cleaned of any dirt and artificial roughness should be created. The quality of the surface preparation determines how long the plaster will last.

The concrete ceiling must first be cleaned, then notched. The notch is made with a special tool, in extreme cases, with an ax or a chisel. When making a notch, try to have as many strokes as possible.

If you are going to plaster a wooden ceiling, you must first fill it with a metal mesh or shingles.

To fill the scum, it should be sorted into prostylnoy and output.

The prostyle should be about 3 mm thick, it can be crooked and narrow. The output shred should be 3-5 mm thick.

The plaster is held directly on the output shred.

First fill the forgiveness. It should be stuffed at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall. The distance between the individual pancakes should be approximately 20 mm. Nail them lightly to the ceiling so they don't fall. Thus, the first row is obtained - a prostrate shingle, the second row is nailed to this row - the output shroud. The outlet thread should be perpendicular to the prostyle.

The exit drains are nailed at a distance of 25-30 mm from each other, driving nails through one or two prostrate drains. The nails that were nailed to the prostrate pancakes should be pulled out and put into action. Be sure to nail the ends of the pancakes, but you can not impose them on each other.

Plaster

For the preparation of plaster solutions, binders, aggregates and water are used. All these components are well mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Suitable for work is a solution that sticks in a thin layer to the oar, with which it is stirred. binder materials. These include: building air lime, podzol, okshara, carbide silt, clay, building gypsum, Portland cement and slag Portland cement.

Lime building air is obtained by roasting limestone. It only hardens in air. This lime is used in the form of lime paste and requires quenching. Before quenching, lime is ground into a very fine powder. In this form, it is quenched in the solution itself.

Sometimes it is required to slake lime into fluff, that is, into a fine powder in the case when there is not enough water. With an excess of water, a lime paste is obtained.

In order to extinguish lime in fluff, you need to take about 1 cubic meter. m of water per 1 cu. m lime. Lime should be poured in an even layer on a horizontal surface and poured with water until a powder forms. If you need to extinguish lime before receiving the test, then for 1 cu. m take 3 cubic meters. m of water.

For extinguishing, it is recommended to use dishes with a height of at least 20 cm. Lime is poured into the dishes (it is better if it is a box) at 1/4 of the height. Then water is gradually poured in in small portions so as not to cool the lime, and mixed. As a result, the lime should become liquid and resemble milk. After extinguishing, it must be drained into a special dish and kept for at least three weeks. When you pour the slaked lime into a storage dish, do it through a sieve.

Lime can be replaced with other materials

For example, industrial waste - podzol, okshara or carbide sludge, as well as building gypsum and Portland cement.

Podzol is a waste from the leather industry. Consists of lime of the third grade, mixed with hair. Podzol must be rubbed through a sieve before use.

Okshara is a waste of the textile industry. It consists of lime of the third grade and fine woolen hair. Before use, okshara should be kept for at least five weeks in an open box in the fresh air to weather the chlorine. Carbide sludge is a waste of calcium carbide from the production of acetylene.

It consists of lime of the second grade, which has a bluish tint, which contains 40% water and undecomposed carbide, using carbide sludge must be kept in fresh air to remove odor.

Building gypsum is obtained from gypsum stone by firing. It is white or grayish in color, representing a fine powder. There are 12 brands of building gypsum. It can be used in its pure form, because when setting it does not decrease, but increases in volume.

Portland cement and Portland slag cement are among the most durable binders. They harden both in air and in water. Portland cement and Portland slag cement are gray-green powders with various shades.

It should be noted that all binders should be stored in a dry place and always tightly packed or tightly tied. With prolonged storage, they lose their strength. placeholders. As aggregates, river, mountain, ravine or sea sands are usually used to reduce the shrinkage of the solution and to save the binder.

If the sand is contaminated, it must be washed. The best aggregate is mountain sand, as it combines best with the binder due to the acute-angled shape of the grains.

Pumice and charcoal can also be used as aggregates. Before use, they must be crushed and sieved. Warm light mortars are made from pumice and charcoal, the plaster layer of which must have a thickness of at least 30 mm. other materials. There are a number of materials used to insulate ceilings and reduce sound transmission.

Such materials include felt, matting and plaster shavings. felt is a cloth made of wool, which comes in different thicknesses and densities. matting is a cloth woven from bast. Only a whole and clean canvas is suitable for use, dirty matting must be washed and dried.

Stucco shavings are splinters of different lengths, but always thin. They are packed in bundles of 50-100 pieces. Instead of flaying, you can use skinned willow twigs. If the rods are too large, then they should be split.

Preparation of plaster solutions

Lime mortar is made from lime paste and sand. These components are thoroughly mixed and water is added. The solution should have the consistency of a thick dough. To give the mortar additional strength, add one liter jar of cement per 10 liters of mortar.

Gypsum lime mortar is more durable than just lime mortar. Lime hardens very slowly, and gypsum accelerates this process. Such a solution seizes after 6 minutes, and hardens after 30 minutes. The preparation of lime mortar with gypsum must be carried out in parts.

The preparation process begins with mixing a simple lime mortar. It is prepared in a box, then a small part of the solution (about 3 liters) is removed from the box. Gypsum is poured into the free space and water is poured. Having mixed the gypsum with water well, the previously removed lime mortar is returned. The mixture is again thoroughly mixed, adding water if necessary.

The resulting lime-gypsum mortar should not be stirred for more than three minutes. Apply the solution within six minutes, otherwise it will begin to harden. If you have a liquid solution, then keep in mind that it will set more slowly, it will be easier to apply it, but the strength of the plaster will become lower. A thick mortar is difficult to apply, but the plaster will turn out to be very durable.

Clay mortar is prepared by analogy with lime mortar.

Clay-lime mortar is prepared from clay and lime dough, which are taken in equal proportions. Approximately 4-5 parts of sand are added to the dough. The strength of the resulting solution is much higher than that of clay.

Clay mortar with gypsum is made in the same way as lime mortar with gypsum.

Cement-lime mortar is prepared from cement, lime paste and sand. First, cement is mixed with sand. Then the lime dough is diluted with water until a creamy mass is obtained, into which a dry mixture of cement and sand is poured. The resulting solution is well mixed, adding water if necessary.

The plastering process

The plaster is applied in three layers. The first layer is a spray, the second is a primer and the third is a coating. With a smooth concrete or brick ceiling, a thin layer of mortar can be applied to it, rubbing it into all surface irregularities. On a concrete ceiling, a layer of plaster can reach 5 mm in thickness, and on a brick ceiling at least 10 mm, otherwise the masonry seams will be visible. On wooden ceilings, the plaster layer must be at least 25 mm. Otherwise, warping shreds can damage it.

Applying a thick layer of mortar at a time is unacceptable, as it will crack when dry. spray The thickness of this layer should be at least 5 mm and not more than 9 mm. The solution used for spraying should resemble sour cream in consistency. The spray is applied by throwing the solution in a continuous layer without gaps.

Apply a spray to fill surface irregularities or to penetrate exit shreds. priming. It is applied to the spray after it has cured or set. The primer is a solution of pasty consistency, which is the main layer of plaster. The primer is applied in one, and sometimes in two or more layers. It depends on how thick the plaster should be.

Before applying each subsequent layer, the previous layer must be leveled. Especially diligently required to level the last layer of soil. covering. This layer should be applied in a thickness of 2-4 mm. Nakryvka is a creamy solution that is applied to the ground, then well leveled. If the soil is dry, then before applying the coating, it should be moistened with water using a brush. It is best to apply the topcoat on a primer that has already set but not yet dried.

In this case, the adhesion of the soil to the coating will be especially strong. A solution for coating is prepared in the same way as a solution for soil, but it is better to use sifted sand, then the surface will turn out to be more even and it will be possible to do without puttying.

After the coating has set, the surface should be grouted. If the coating is dry, then it must be moistened with water using a brush.

Applying the mortar with a trowel and a falcon

When plastering the ceiling, transfer the solution to the falcon with a trowel, throw the solution onto the surface in the direction towards yourself over your shoulder.

When throwing the solution away from you, the trowel should be directed slightly to the side.

Throws can be wide, narrow, thick or thin.

In order for the throws to be wide and thin, it is necessary to swing the trowel very sharply.

With narrow and thick throws, the trowel is swung smoothly. The technique of applying the solution requires some preparation. It will be very difficult for an inexperienced person to apply the solution with high quality, but over time, excellent results can be achieved.

How to spread and level the solution

Spread and level only solutions of soil and coverings. These operations are usually performed with a falcon or trowel. In order to update only some sections of the ceiling, it is recommended to use a plaster trowel.

When applying the solution with a falcon and a trowel, the falcon is held in one hand with a trowel in the other. A portion of the solution is applied to the falcon, brought to the ceiling and pressed with one end so that an angle of about 45 degrees is obtained between the falcon and the ceiling.

Then the falcon is moved along the surface, pressing on it with the end of the trowel. In the process of moving the falcon along the ceiling, the solution is distributed over the surface, and the edge of the falcon, which was at an angle, is gradually pressed against the layer of the applied solution. If you have the appropriate experience, the solution can be applied very evenly.

Applying the solution with a trowel

If you decide to apply plaster to the ceiling with a trowel, you need to take a portion of the solution on it, bring the trowel to the ceiling and, pressing it, move it along the surface in any direction convenient for you. The solution should be applied to a trowel in the form of a bed. The width of the trowel cloth should not be less than 120-200 mm, so that as much solution as possible can be collected at a time.

In order to level the solution with a falcon or trowel, you just need to repeat the operations without the solution on the tool.

How to grout plaster

Grouting is done after applying the coating. It should be noted that grouting can only be done after the mortar has set, but has not dried completely. To do this operation, you will need a wooden grater. If you correctly calculated the time required for setting the covering, then you can grout without pre-wetting the surface, otherwise the covering must be lightly moistened with water using a brush.

Grouting is done by firmly pressing the grater to the surface and performing it in a circular motion. When mashing, the solution thickens.

After you have grouted, traces in the form of circles may remain on the surface. To smooth them out, it is necessary to make a grout "overclocking".

It is performed immediately after round-robin grouting. It is better to perform these operations in stages. First, wipe a small area of ​​the surface in a circle, then “overclock”, continuing to alternate these steps until the entire ceiling has been processed. If bumps or missed spots remain on the surface after grouting, they will be very noticeable after painting or whitewashing, so grouting must be done very carefully.

Plastering ceilings from precast concrete slabs

Precast concrete slab ceilings are found in many apartments. On such ceilings between the slabs there are rustications, which are rectilinear recesses of the same width. Sometimes the floors shrink, and the plaster between the slabs disappears. In this case, the plaster must be corrected and new rustications made.

To repair a precast concrete slab ceiling, you will need the following tools: an even rule that should match the length of the rust, two or three rough slats or thin narrow boards that will support the rules and plaster mortar. If you use boards, then keep in mind that their length should be 5-10 cm higher than the height of the room.

Rules are continuous and compound. A solid rule is made along the length of the rusts. A compound rule is made from two or three pieces and rustication.

Rustovka is made from a small trowel with a cutout on the canvas and a piece of iron, which is the cutting part. One side of the piece of iron should be sharpened, after which the piece of iron is bent in the form of a semicircle in the form of rust. The diameter of the semicircle should be from 5 to 10 cm.

To fix the rules on the ceiling, you need to press them with rails. This uses the flexibility of the rails that are installed between the rule and the floor. If the slats do not bend, then wedges must be inserted between them and the rule.

After the rules, slats and rustication have already been made and installed, it is required to clear the edges between the plates, prepare a cement mortar with a small portion of gypsum. The ceiling is covered with this solution, well leveled and overwritten. The edges should be especially carefully rubbed.

Only after completion of all the above operations can be fixed to the ceiling
rule.

At the same time, attention should be paid to the fact that during the application of rustication to it, the rust is between the plates. Then the rustication is attached to the rule and, pressing, it is carried out along the surface of the ceiling, cutting off the solution to the full depth. After the rust is cut through, it is moistened with water and rubbed with a small trowel, eliminating irregularities.

Plaster repair

As a result of prolonged use, shrinkage of the house, increased dampness or improper application of plaster, it may begin to crack, crumble or swell. To correct such shortcomings, it is not necessary to re-plaster the entire surface. It is enough to repair the plaster only in those places where it began to deteriorate.

If the plaster has moved away from the surface and began to swell, then in these places it should first be beaten off. Then the surface is prepared for applying the mortar and plastered. In this case, it is necessary to rub and grind the new plaster to the old one well.

If you prefer a painted ceiling, but the paint layer has become too thick, then it must be peeled off. This is done with a scraper or spatula. Paint that is very strong and difficult to peel off should first be wetted with hot water using a brush. repeatedly.

When the paint gets wet, it can be peeled off without much effort. After cleaning, the ceiling should be rubbed. To do this, moisten the plaster with water and apply a thin layer of the same mortar with which the plaster was made. The solution is applied with strokes, which are then rubbed with a grater. Try not to leave any gaps. This way you should have a thin layer of new plaster, which will smooth out traces of the old paint.

When repairing cracked plaster, first widen the cracks with a knife or the end of the cut. Small and shallow cracks are cut to a depth of no more than 5 mm, then the edges of the old plaster are removed. After cutting the cracks, they are well moistened with water and covered with a solution.

To putty cracks, use the same solution that the plaster was made with. The solution should be of medium density.

It is pressed with force into the cracks, thus filling the voids.

Clean gypsum paste can be used to fill small cracks. To achieve better work, it is recommended to add chalk to the plaster dough. 2-3 parts of chalk are added to 1 part of gypsum dough. After filling the cracks with gypsum or gypsum-chalk mortar, they should be primed very carefully. It is advisable to do this in two layers. The primer of smeared places is made so that the gypsum absorbs the paint composition as little as possible, without forming stripes and spots on the surface. Grouting of smeared cracks is carried out in the usual way, but carefully rubbing the solution to the old plaster.

The condition of the ceiling surface depends on many factors, but it is close to ideal only after a recent repair. In all other cases, on the ceiling - the most visible base of the room - there are defects that homeowners seek to eliminate as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The main criterion for the quality of ceilings is their evenness, if you do not take into account some original methods of finishing, for example, with wooden beams. Only on a leveled base or hiding a defective surface under a masking shell can a decorative or, at least, a classic finish of this structural element of the room be performed. Consider some of the most common ways to level the ceiling with your own hands, depending on the significance of its defects.

Types of ceiling bases

In modern housing construction, beam or beamless reinforced concrete floors are most common, which can be of the following design:

• monolithic;
• prefabricated;
• prefabricated monolithic.

There are other technological solutions - arched brick, tent, wooden and other structures, but homeowners face the problem of leveling such bases much less often.

Monolithic ceilings are made by pouring concrete into the formwork with reinforcement, installed in place - in the interfloor plane.

Prefabricated roof structures are made of prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs (hollow or monolithic) mounted end-to-end on beams or load-bearing walls.

Prefabricated-monolithic floors are a relatively new technology, which consists in the installation of hollow aerated concrete blocks butt-to-beam between beams, on top of which cement mortar is poured, connecting the structure into one.

Each of the methods has both certain advantages and disadvantages, which subsequently need to be neutralized.

Ceiling defects

The degree of need for leveling ceilings after the installation of ceilings depends on many factors, but even with an impeccable performance of the base, it is largely due to the installation technology.

The ceiling surfaces of monolithic reinforced concrete coatings require the least correction - they are located in the same horizontal plane and do not have joints.

The situation is different with prefabricated and prefabricated monolithic structures.

On prefabricated ceilings, there are differences in the level of the slabs, which can also be located at some small angle to the horizontal. In addition, builders often cut rustication along the seams to mask such installation defects or cracks, which eventually collapse and require repair or sealing.

The prefabricated-monolithic floor structure has a flat surface of the ceiling base, on top of which plastering is performed to hide the joints of the blocks. But the difference in the materials for the manufacture of blocks, mounting mortar and leveling compound causes cracking in the plaster.

Ceilings of any design need ongoing maintenance and repair, but the list and volume of finishing work required for execution can vary significantly depending on the types of defects that require a certain elimination technology.

The complex of finishing works to eliminate defects in ceilings can be combined with a general definition of "alignment", which, depending on the method of execution, will include certain operations.

Methods for leveling ceiling surfaces

In fact, the methods of leveling ceilings can be divided into wet and dry. Wet include leveling with the help of various hardening mixtures, dry - installation of drywall, suspended and stretch ceilings.

Wet and dry leveling methods, of course, differ in the composition of the work required to be performed.

In general, wet leveling methods include:

• removal of poor-quality or worn-out coating;
• sealing old or cutting new rusts;
• filling potholes and cracks;
• bringing the base of the ceilings into a single horizontal plane;
• final leveling of the surface.

Dry methods consist of the following main operations:

• installation of a frame with leveling;
• ceiling installation.

Consider these methods, equally widely used in the repair of ceilings.

Repair of ceilings with leveling compounds

If the ceiling base is concrete, the height of the premises is around 2.5 meters, and there are no large differences in the surface level, then the most rational way to repair is to level the ceiling with special mixtures, since installing the frame will significantly reduce the height of the room.

Surface preparation

The preparatory work is especially important, since the leveling layers will constantly be affected by the force of gravity directed at the gap.

If the ceilings are finished with water-based paint, then it must be completely removed. The whitewash is moistened and impregnated with water using a paint roller, after which it is easily removed with a narrow spatula.

If the finishing material is oil paint or enamel, then the amount of work to remove it depends on the condition of the substrate. If the ceilings are even, then the surface is tapped with a hammer, and the paint, together with the plaster, is removed only where the plaster has peeled off.

In case of differences in height or deviations from the horizontal of the plates, when leveling mixtures have to be applied to them, the oil paint from the ceiling must be completely removed. This is done by a grinder with a dry-cutting steel disk - a layer of paint is peeled off the surface along with a part of the plaster, unevenness in the form of small convex sections can also be removed by a grinder.

Important! Work as a grinder (grinder) is performed in goggles and a respirator.

The joints between the slabs are also cleared of aggregates - damaged rustications are knocked down manually with a chisel and a hammer.

After cleaning up construction debris, the room is ventilated and vacuumed, and then the ceilings are primed with a ready-made hydrophobic primer composition or a 1: 4 proportion of latex prepared by yourself. In this case, it is convenient to apply a primer coating with an airbrush.

After a day, the surface is ready for the application of leveling compounds.

How to level a defective concrete ceiling?

Do-it-yourself ceiling alignment begins with rustication. The gaps in the joints of the plates are filled to the maximum depth with mounting foam, the excess of which, after curing, is cut off with a clerical knife, deepening into the seam by 2-3 cm. A layer of base cement-based leveling mixture is applied over the cut of the mounting foam. If the ceiling plane is flat, has no drops, then after the composition has cured in the embedded rustications, the ceiling is waterproofed, and then the finishing putty is applied with a gypsum-based composition, preferably with preliminary reinforcement over the seams with a serpentine tape.

The number of layers depends on the skill of the performer, usually two layers are applied - the second after the first has cured. Then the surface is polished, cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner and covered with a primer.

If the ceiling slabs have differences in height, then the amount of work on leveling increases significantly. At the same time, the range of differences is important, since the decision of the question depends on it, with what exactly, with what mixture to level the ceiling.

It is necessary to proceed from the fact that the ceilings are leveled in a wet way with height differences of up to 50 mm - a plaster layer of even smaller thickness, made with technology violations, is life-threatening when peeling and collapsing.

Plastering ceilings with a cement-sand mortar requires professional skills - it is difficult to apply a freshly prepared mortar to the ceiling base with its fixation on it, and the slightest deviation from the recipe or the correct execution technique leads to a mixture falling. Therefore, taking on the independent execution of this work without practical experience is an empty undertaking. And with height differences of up to 30 mm, leveling the ceiling with your own hands is quite realistic - the characteristics of special mixtures based on cement or gypsum simplify this operation.

Marking the horizontal plane of the ceiling

Under the ceiling surface, you need to designate a horizontal plane, to the level of which it is necessary to lower all points of the base. To do this, first of all, determine the lowest corner of the ceiling. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level - the device is placed in the center of the room, leveled and, by rotating it in a horizontal plane, one mark is applied to the vertical corners of the walls of the room. Then they measure the distances from these marks to the ceiling and choose the smallest value - at this level the new ceiling plane should be located after alignment.

In the absence of a laser level, horizontal marks along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling can be set using a transparent flexible hose with water - if you fill it with water, then, according to the law of communicating vessels, the liquid levels at the ends of the hose will be located at the same height.

Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls at the top and self-tapping screws are screwed in with a step of 0.5 m, along which control cords are pulled along and across the room, forming the plane of the future ceiling.

Important! If some section of the ceiling surface is located below the level of the cords, then it must be cut off with a grinder with a dry cutting disk or lower all control cords to the required value.

Having a contour of the future area, measure the maximum thickness of the layer required to be applied to level the base. If this value is from 30 to 50 mm, then, as mentioned above, it is better to entrust this work to professionals who will plaster the ceilings with cement-sand mortar. If the layer does not exceed 30 mm, then you can level the ceiling in the apartment yourself using cement and gypsum mixtures.

Construction of control beacons

It is better to make a layer with a thickness of 20 to 30 mm from a cement-based mixture, laying it on a reinforcing steel mesh, fixed to the ceiling with brackets or fixed with self-tapping screws. The reinforcement will exclude the collapse of the layer even in case of its delamination from the base due to some factors.

Beacons are installed on top of the grid - rows of cones made of cement mixture with a height equal to the distance to the cord in this place. After the cones have cured, they are connected with the same mixture in such a way that even and smooth guides for the rule are obtained, which will remove the excess of the subsequently applied composition.

The leveling composition prepared according to the instructions is applied to the base with a wide spatula, if necessary, in layers, after the mixture of the previous application has cured and dried. At the same time, the surface of the previous layer must be “combed” before setting - draw a notched trowel over it to create a profile to which the next layer will adhere more firmly.

Important! It is impossible to accelerate the process of curing and drying of the plaster either by creating a draft or by increasing the temperature in the room.

After completely filling the gaps between the guides, excess plaster is removed by drawing the rule over a fresh, slightly seized layer - the fixture is led along the guides, pressing against them and at the same time performing movements in transverse directions. The shells remaining after the rule are filled with the same solution and overwritten.

The alignment of the ceilings is completed by applying the finishing putty - this is done in two or three layers with intermediate drying and removal of convex traces from the movements of the spatula. Then the surface is polished with sandpaper fixed on a flat bar or a special holder. The polished base is primed with one of the hydrophobic compounds, after which the surface is whitewashed or the surface is finished with decorative tiles.

Alignment of plasterboard ceilings

This method of repairing ceilings is less laborious and, unlike plastering, does not require strong practical skills, although there are enough rules in this technology, non-observance of which is fraught with damage to the coating soon after finishing.

Foundation preparation

Exfoliated putty and plaster are removed from the ceilings, ceiling rusts are freed from old filling materials and sealed after priming, along with significant potholes. Then the ceiling is completely waterproofed - this will reduce the consequences in case of flooding from above, since drywall, even moisture resistant, is not designed for direct contact with water.

Frame plane marking

Consider the design of the simplest, even plasterboard ceiling, as many other, more complex types of design are used.

Along the perimeter of the room at a certain distance from the ceiling (depending on the choice of the design of the future finish), using a level or a transparent hose with water, marks are applied to the starting level - a horizontal line along which the boundary profiles will be installed.

On the ceiling, the layout of the frame parts is marked, which can be of two types:

• a solid crate with cells measuring 60x60 cm - the junction of two adjacent plasterboards should be located on the same profile, along it;
• linear arrangement of profiles - for longitudinal installation of gypsum boards along them with a distance between parallel guides of 40 cm, and transverse jumpers are mounted only under the joints of the sheets.

Material consumption calculation

Both frame designs are reliable, so the one that, with the specific dimensions of the room, will require less material consumption is selected.

According to the markup, the calculation of the need for material is performed:

• ud-profile - along the perimeter of the room plus 20%;
• cd-profile - the total length of the jumpers on the ceiling plus 20%;
• suspensions - based on a step of 60 cm.

The standard dimensions of a drywall sheet are 2.5 x1.2 (m). With a simple ceiling configuration (flat, single-level), a sketch with dimensions is drawn and the GKL is assembled on it, taking into account the design of the selected frame.

The number of self-tapping screws for mounting drywall is taken as 100 pieces per 1 sheet.

Screws with hollows - twice the number of hangers plus the cost of mounting the ud-profile in increments of 40 cm.

Frame installation

Work begins with the installation of ud-profiles around the perimeter of the room along the starting level. Then, suspensions are attached to the ceiling according to the marking of the frame with screws, which, after installing the cd-profiles, will be bent for attaching jumpers to them with self-tapping screws.

The connection of perpendicularly located elements of the frame is performed using a special cross - "crab". To increase the profile in length, a special device is also used, but you can do without it - make an overlay on the part of the next fragment with an overlap of 10 cm and side fastening with self-tapping screws.

In a room with a flat, but not smooth ceiling, metal profiles can be replaced with wooden bars, but they need to be treated with an antiseptic and primed with nitro-varnish to protect against moisture.

Plasterboard laying

GKL installation is best done together, so as not to make special T-shaped supports.

Sheets are cut by cutting the product on one side with a clerical knife along the ruler, followed by a break in the direction of the cut.

If the humidity in the room is high, then moisture-resistant drywall is used - with the GKLV marking and a green shell. In addition, the cutting surfaces of the sheets are covered with a primer nitro-lacquer - gypsum is hygroscopic. It will not be superfluous to cover the GKLV with a layer of hydrophobic composition on the inside - this will save the sheets from deformation with a slight leak from above to the stone base.

Basic rules for installing drywall on a frame:

• a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the sheet and the wall;
• installation of elements is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the transverse joints of the gypsum plasterboard do not match;
• fixing screws are screwed in in increments of 15-20 cm, also in a checkerboard pattern, deepening the cap into the sheet by 1 mm to hide it later with putty;
• a chamfer is removed from the ends of the GKL sections at the joints at an angle of 30-40 degrees (with nitro-lacquer treatment) for the possibility of subsequent filling with the mixture to the full depth.

Plastering plasterboard ceilings

The ceiling mounted from GKL with the help of a paint roller or spray gun is primed at the joints with a latex-based compound.

A day after priming, it is necessary to putty drywall, starting with filling the joints along the perimeter of the walls and between the sheets, on which the chamfer was removed before installation. Joints with a narrow spatula are filled with a special mixture, for example, "Fugenfüller", at the same time covering with putty the caps of self-tapping screws recessed into the sheet. A reinforcing serpentine tape is laid over the layer of freshly laid putty along the seams, which is sunk into the mixture with a spatula and additionally coated on top with the same composition.

The ceiling is given time to dry (1-2 days), after which the putty is treated with sandpaper over the sickle at the seams and in other areas where it was used. The polished base is primed over the entire area, and the ceiling is ready for painting or other type of finish.

Leveling the ceiling with plastic tiles

Another way to level ceilings is to install strip or rectangular plastic tiles. The essence of the principle is the same - the creation of an additional shell below the ceiling, which will hide the defects of the supporting base.

The technology of laying tiles resembles the installation of drywall:

• ground preparation;
• frame installation;
• laying tiles.

At the same time, the edges of the tiles are made with a locking device, eliminating the need to putty them after installation.

It is not difficult to veneer an uneven ceiling with plastic tiles even alone - by analogy with drywall, a frame is mounted, which is more convenient to make from wooden blocks - the tile is attached to it with small nails hammered into the bottom.

The advantages of this method are that PVC tiles are not afraid of water, are easy to maintain on a daily basis and are available in the entire price range.

Dropped ceilings

This type of work can be considered not only as a way to level ceilings, but also as an independent type of finish, the main purpose of which is the artistic lining of the ceiling base, while its alignment is a passing result.

The method is far from always budgetary, except to consider a variety of suspended ceilings made of drywall. Suspended structures require a significant ceiling height, as well as professional skills, since, depending on the characteristics of the room, the finishing frames may differ in both the material of execution and the method of installation.

Therefore, there can be no universal instruction on how to level ceilings by installing a suspended finish - each specific case needs an individual approach.

Stretch ceiling

This is another technology that allows you to hide an unaesthetic ceiling base under a decorative shell. Stretch ceilings differ in the material of manufacture (elastic, fabric), the method of fastening to the base and artistic performance.

Without professional skills, it is not reasonable to take on leveling the ceiling with your own hands using this material - correcting mistakes made during the installation process reduces the aesthetics of performance, and the cost of such a cladding is quite high.

Conclusion

Since there are many ways to make an uneven ceiling even, when deciding to do it yourself, you should choose a technology that is close to your existing skills. Even being far from painting or plastering, you can level the ceiling by applying monotonous, often spaced strokes of putty, which will hide defects that were previously noticeable on a relatively flat surface. Therefore, if desired, you can find a correction method that is available both in technical design and in terms of cost.

The main gist of the article:

1. Ceilings are an integral factor in evaluating the aesthetics of home decoration.
2. An analysis of surface defects is necessary when choosing a leveling method.
3. Concrete ceilings are the most common ceiling design.
4. Budget technologies for leveling concrete foundations.
5. A variety of ways to level ceilings allows even non-professionals to do this.

Ceiling decoration can be carried out in several ways, as partly indicated by the name of the type of ceiling: suspended, main, stretch, panel, plaster, plasterboard. If we talk about the plaster surface, then it is prepared either for wallpapering or for painting. Let's take a step-by-step look at the entire technology for leveling the ceiling with plaster.

Tools that will be needed in the work:

• stainless steel trowel, rule and falcon;
• several plastic buckets;
• drill with a power of 800 W with a mixer type nozzle;
• grout, trowel and plaster comb;
• pick and spatulas of different widths from 5 to 20 cm.

1. The truth about removing old ceiling layers

Working with the old layers of the ceiling in time takes almost a third of all plaster work. Well, if you are doing ceiling repairs in your apartment, because you know the number of layers, their composition. But when dismantling an old house, it happens that wallpaper was once glued to the paint, and then paint or plaster was also applied. In these situations, only patience and knowledge of how and with what it is better to remove a layer covered with different materials will help (table 1).

The standard dismantling process is to remove the unnecessary coating with an old trowel, which should be sharpened, right up to the floor slab. Do not take a new spatula, because it will come into disrepair. If you only want to remove old plaster / putty, then periodically wet the surface with a brush or roller to quickly remove the layer. We note right away that the dismantling of one ceiling is impossible without cleaning the walls at least 2 cm down from it.

Table 1. Methods for dismantling ceiling layers from different compositions

Layer composition	Layer removal method
Water-dispersion paints/enamels	Spatula + building hair dryer that needs to heat the layer Drill + nozzle in the form of a brush, which will allow you to remove the next layer of putty Application for 30 minutes of a special wash, for example from PUFAS or Dufa. After that, the helmet or enamel can be easily removed with a spatula.
lime whitewash	Whitewashing must be removed, since the adhesion of the primer and putty will be difficult, which can lead to bubbles and even material falling off. Whitewash must be soaked and removed with the same spatula. The more layers of whitewash were, the more difficult it is to remove. Often one layer of whitewash is removed a lot briefly. If you see a rough ceiling, then put down the spatula and take a damp sponge to clean the ceiling.
Plaster on rustications, in corners and near heating pipes	All curved surfaces must be tediously knocked down with a spatula, and the joints of the floor slabs should be tapped and embroidered. Remember that knocking down uneven floor slabs and other load-bearing structures is prohibited.
Fungus (growths or brown-green mold spots)	It is best to clean the ceiling from the fungus with PUFAS or Tikkurila products (namely, the Homeenpoisto solution). It is enough to spray the product with an aerosol and wait half an hour, then rinse

2. What is the essence of the preparatory work?

Thoroughly prime corners, embroidered rustications, pipe sections with Knauf primer for concrete surfaces Betokontakt. Places where potholes are observed, seal with a mixture of Spachtelmasse or Uniflor from Knauf. If such areas are small, then do not buy excess material, but use Rotband plaster.

Before covering the rustications with sickle, they are filled with tow impregnated with Rotband gypsum plaster, or mounting foam. If the cracks between the floor slabs are wide, then a 2 * 2mm cellular glass mesh (“cobweb”) is applicable, which, due to its loose structure, will not allow cracks to appear. For new buildings, such ceilings are irrelevant, since the house will shrink more than once.

You need to fix the glass canvas or sickle on the Rotband, pressing it with a spatula. Excess should be removed and rubbed with the same tool, achieving a flat surface.

3. Why do you need to install beacons?

Do you still think that you have a flat ceiling? Apply the rule and you will see the opposite. But you can make a flat ceiling yourself. Putty will lie well on the ceiling if the difference is not more than 3 cm. With a greater difference between the minimum and maximum points of the floor slab, it is better to use drywall sheets. Beacons are used to level the ceiling on which the plaster will be applied.

Some masters are used to being guided by the level of the floor, if it is crooked. But it is better to do everything right at once, namely, use the water level, and preferably the laser level. A line drawn by you will appear along the perimeter of the room, along which you need to hammer the dowels and pull the fishing line. Set the beacons along the fishing line or buy profile beacons made of plastic or metal, the length of which is up to 3 m, and the height is 0.6 and 1 cm. Installation of beacons-profiles is done in increments of minus 2 cm from the length of the rule.

4. Applying a primer to the base

After complete drying of all leveling layers, the ceiling is carefully polished with a special machine several times. We use the same primer "Betokontakt", the consumption of which may be more than what is written on the package. The more carefully you prime the surface, the better the plaster will lay down, and the planes are treated with a roller, and uneven places with a brush. Primer hardening time - up to 8 hours. Many begin to putty the surface, unable to withstand the desired break. But such nuances are important - putty can peel off in a separate area.

5. How and how to level the ceiling: features of plaster mixes from different companies and process technology

Knauf plasters are in demand due to their high German quality. There are two main blends: Rotband and Fugenfuller. The first must be used for a bast no more than 5 cm thick, and the second - a layer no more than 1-2 cm. If the layer is too large on a wooden ceiling or with thick rustication, it is imperative to reinforce it with a metal mesh, which is rigidly attached to the ceiling with dowels, no more than a third of the layer thickness.

Repair feature with Rotband mixes there is that the minimum layer is 5 mm, the maximum is 3 cm. The kneading occurs several times. First, pour a bucket of water into an 18l bucket and gradually pour up to 7 pcs. trowels of dry plaster, mix with a drill with a mixing nozzle until smooth. If necessary, add more mixture/water and let the solution brew for up to 5 minutes, stir. Never add the mixture/water after the solution has been thoroughly mixed, because the components have reacted and changing the proportion will upset the balance.

If the ceiling will be painted or wallpapered, then we apply the plaster in the following sequence:

1. On a rough base, wait 15 minutes.
2. Moisten with plenty of water, rub with a hard grater to level the recesses left by the spatula.
3. We wait until a matte structure appears, and then we process the ceiling again with a trowel (stainless steel grater) or a spatula. Let the ceiling dry and it is ready for painting or applying polystyrene tiles.

If you want to achieve a glossy structure of the ceiling, moisten it with plenty of water and sand the plaster, but not earlier than 3 hours after the mixture has been kneaded for the first time. For a perfectly flat surface, you should plaster the ceiling several times (2-3) with a finishing mixture.

Repair feature with Fugenfuller mixtures there is that the minimum layer is 0.15 mm and the maximum 5 mm. We knead in the same way as Rotband, so that dry islands appear, but with a calculation of up to 2.5 kg per 2 liters of water. The exposure time is up to 3 minutes, after which nothing can be added at seven. Putty cures quickly up to 30 minutes, so work quickly.

Any other mixture is also suitable for leveling the ceiling, but remember that it must be applied no later than 20 minutes after kneading. Otherwise, it will harden to a stone state. Try to wash buckets and spatulas right away, you don’t want to throw them away. Remember that the mixture is always applied to the ceiling not from yourself, but towards yourself. The thickness of the plaster layer does not exceed 2 cm, since we will also level it with the rule in our direction. Irregularities in hard-to-reach places are removed with a narrow spatula.

Every master knows that putty sets with the ceiling under certain conditions: a warm room without drafts with high humidity. If you do not provide these conditions, the plaster will dry externally, but then it may crumble, because. didn't stick to the ceiling enough.

The very last layer is aligned so that the rule is located “towards itself” with a straight, and not beveled, side. So it does not draw out the solution, but rips it off. The method is called “on the sdir”.

6. How is fiberglass reinforced?

You can reinforce the entire area of ​​​​the ceiling, if it is problematic, or only areas under the rustication. Fiberglass must be cut so that it covers the rusts, and add 1.5 cm to each side. To find the rusts, mark their location in advance with a pencil. All the same, under the final layer, your marks will not be visible. Fiberglass is attached to a fresh layer, after which it must be pressed with a spatula.

On a layer of Rotband or Fugenfuller, it is worth applying a finishing putty, for example, Vetonit LR. Always clean your tool during all work.

Ceilings for painting should be perfectly even, which is why it is so important to do everything in stages and not to rush, because the correct drying of all layers of putty takes up to 3 weeks. The more layers, the longer they will harden. Always choose the golden mean - it is not always possible and necessary to achieve a horizontal surface, sometimes it is enough just to level the ceiling.

Repair of any premises, whether residential or office, begins with the ceiling. Regardless of what kind of finish is provided for by the design project: whitewashing, painting or pasting with decorative panels, the surface to be treated must be prepared in accordance with all the rules.

In short, how can you equalize the flow?

Comparing the various methods of leveling the ceiling, you should find out what is the fundamental difference between plaster and putty? Both options for eliminating nervousness refer to the “wet” method, which is based on the use of various building mixtures and compositions. Ceiling alignment is considered “dry”, but they resort to such a cardinal solution to the problem as a last resort.

Surface puttying is performed as a finish before painting or wallpapering. The layer of material cannot exceed 3-4 mm. The peculiarity of such a coating is that its use is permissible on almost even surfaces with minor defects, inconspicuous cracks and small irregularities, since a finely dispersed putty mixture is not able to tighten and hide more significant problems.

Stucco screed is made on surfaces with height differences up to 45-50 mm. Thanks to coarse particles, the mixture easily copes with deep cracks and seams between slabs and ceilings. However, if the differences exceed 5 cm, it is not recommended to use plaster mixes - too thick a layer of material is not only aesthetically unattractive, but also dangerous due to the likelihood of cracking and peeling of the plaster from the ceiling, which can be a potential health hazard and lead to injury. In such situations, the best solution would be to install frame ceiling structures using slabs or stretch ceilings made of modern materials.

When choosing one or another method of finishing, you should take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of the material.

The advantages of plaster are in the following aspects:

The disadvantages of plaster mixes are as follows:

• there is a restriction on the maximum thickness of the plaster layer - experts do not recommend exceeding a threshold of 5 cm - with large differences, it is not advisable to level with this material and is characterized by a large consumption of the mixture;
• if it is not possible to perform the work on your own, the services of professionals will cost a significant amount, plus consider the cost of the material itself;
• leveling the ceiling with plaster mixtures requires certain skills in working with materials and tools, and the process itself can take a very long time, since the main task is to make the surface smooth and even.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

To plaster the ceiling on your own, you will need the following materials:

Step 1. Surface preparation

The preparatory stage is of great importance even if it is a new building. Ideally, the ceiling should be cleared down to a concrete slab.

Traces of mold, fungus and rust smudges should be removed with a wet sponge, and then wash the ceiling area with special compounds. The old and peeling layer of plaster and other building materials must be removed.

Even if the coating looks durable and without noticeable signs of wear, experts recommend removing it. Firstly, sooner or later cracks may form on the ceiling, and secondly, such layering will steal extra centimeters of space.

The most suitable tool for the work is a narrow spatula. If the layer of finishing materials is difficult to remove, you can try to “beat” the treated area with a rubber hammer or use an electromechanical drill with a special brush attachment. It is very important not to forget to protect your eyes, head and respiratory tract from construction dust.

It is useless to blur the plaster with various solutions, since after such treatment a thin, smooth and difficult-to-remove layer remains on the ceiling surface, which will prevent high-quality work due to low adhesion, which can cause peeling and cracks in the applied plaster layer.

Relatively flat ceilings

The ceiling is plastered with two, less often three layers of the mixture. If there are minimal surface defects, it is allowed to apply plaster on selective areas, followed by leveling the material, but the craftsmen recommend applying at least one solid layer to the entire surface. If the irregularities are numerous and the estimated layer of plaster will exceed 10 mm, before starting work on the ceiling, you need to fix the paint grid - this will protect the coating from cracks and give greater strength.

Ceilings with large irregularities

If the surface differences are significant and are more than 2 cm, then alignment is best done using. Their installation is a responsible and important stage.

• The planned minimum thickness of the plaster layer depends only on the specific conditions of the room to be finished and the wishes of the owners. As a rule, a layer less than 5 mm is not applied when plastering.
• The amount of difference in the height of the ceiling, which must be eliminated by plastering.
• Master's skill level. For a professional, no more than 5% of the solution will go to waste, and for a beginner, at first, 15% of the stock may not be enough.

The resulting value will initially be expressed in kilograms. But dry plaster mixtures are sold in paper bags of 25 or 30 kilograms, and acquiring an open bag is a great stupidity, since no one can already guarantee the quality of the solution. This means that one way or another it will be necessary to round the amount of the purchased composition up to the whole number of bags. This stock will still not be superfluous - all the repairs are yet to come! This is also taken into account by the calculation program.

For modern repairs, before decorating the ceiling surface, it must be made as even as possible. One of the ways to level is plastering the ceiling. In this case, not too complicated technology is used, but it requires accuracy. You can do this work yourself if you wish.

Ways to level the ceiling

In practice, one of two technologies is used - plastering the ceiling on beacons and without their use. The first of the options is considered correct, since then a ceiling surface lying in the same plane is obtained.

But sometimes you can find a ceiling that has a large height difference. Applying a 5 cm layer of plaster to the surface is dangerous, as it is likely to fall off. Even if you do several layers with a primer, there is no guarantee that the finish will hold.

In the case when the ceilings have a large curvature, experts advise leveling them by installing suspended plasterboard ceiling structures. True, not in all rooms the height allows you to take 10 centimeters from her. In such a situation, there is no doubt whether it is necessary to plaster the ceiling using beacons.

The essence of this technology is that in a certain area the ceiling surface will become smooth. There will not be too noticeable differences on it, it will look even. And the fact that the distance to the floor covering in different angles differs by a couple of centimeters cannot be determined “by eye”.

The main task that should be solved when using this technology is to make the junction of the ceiling with the walls as even as possible. The resulting line should be straight. When applying this option, you need to start plastering in the direction from the walls to the center.

materials

Before starting the repair, it is necessary to decide how best to plaster the ceiling. You can use a standard cement-sand mortar or add lime to it. It is better to apply the plaster in a small layer. Such a mixture is inexpensive, despite this, it has been used infrequently recently, since it can fall off or become cracked.

Instead of a conventional mortar, it is better to use polymer-based plasters, since they have a strong bond and are less likely to crack. But these compositions have a drawback - high cost. Many home craftsmen prefer modern mixtures, so as not to redo the work later when the applied layer falls.

When choosing plaster for the ceiling, it does not hurt to use the recommendations of experts:

1. When plastering smooth surfaces of the ceiling and walls, the Knauf Rotband mixture, which has a white or gray color, has proven itself well. It can be applied with a layer of 5 to 50 millimeters. Polymers are added to this gypsum ceiling plaster.
2. To restore old plastered surfaces, including facades, the Knauf Sevener gray plaster-adhesive mixture is suitable. Consists of Portland cement, reinforcing fibers and polymer additives.
3. If you have to use the compositions in rooms with a normal level of humidity, you can purchase Bergauf Bau Interier or Volma-Holst.

In case of insufficient experience in carrying out such work, when deciding which plaster to choose for the ceiling, attention should be paid to the time it takes for the mixture to harden. During this period, it is necessary not only to apply the solution, but also to level it, because then it loses its elasticity.

Of the above plaster compositions, Volma-Kholst, made from gypsum with biological and mineral additives, has the longest time period for the use of the mixture. But not all masters like to work with this plaster, they give TM Knauf materials, despite the fact that they harden in 50 - 60 minutes. True, this is quite enough, even if there is no relevant experience.

Primer application

There is a certain technology on how to properly plaster the ceiling.
A high-quality result will not work without careful application of a primer. It helps to improve adhesion between the base and the applied mortar.

As a rule, problems with plaster peeling occur due to the fact that the surface has not been primed. For this reason, it is better not to skip this step. If the plaster is applied in several layers, each of them should be treated with a primer, moreover, only if it is completely dry.

First of all, the base is cleaned of old materials, and then primed. The composition is poured into a paint tray, a roller is taken on a long handle and the composition is distributed over the ceiling surface. If there are various defects on it in the form of recesses and recesses in which the roller does not fit, they are pre-treated with a brush dipped into the primer mixture.

According to experts, the best primer for the ceiling is Betonokontakt from the Knauf company. A day after its application, it dries up, after which a sticky, rough film forms on the surface. Putty clings much better to such a coating.

The main thing is to make sure that dust does not get on the primer while it dries. Otherwise, such processing will not have the desired effect.

Sealing of board joints

The main problem that arises when it is necessary to plaster the ceiling of reinforced concrete slabs is the sealing of joints and rustications. The recesses at the joints of the plates must be removed a few days before the start of plastering the entire ceiling surface, since the materials must seize.

First, everything that is possible is removed from the docking points. Then the recesses are cleaned of dust and sand. Then the joints are treated with a primer, it is better to use Betonokontakt. After its application, the likelihood of plaster peeling is several times reduced. In extreme cases, you can use another deep penetration impregnation, but the result will not be the same.

When the impregnation dries in a day, proceed to laying the solution. If necessary, to obtain a putty thickness of more than 30 - 35 millimeters, it is advisable to apply the mixture in two layers. After laying the first of them with a notched trowel, you need to form a relief. After the solution has dried, which takes about 24 hours, a second layer is laid, which is leveled flush with the ceiling.

If you have to apply a thick layer of plaster, it is better to reinforce the joints of the plates with a paint grid. It will prevent the appearance of cracks in the event of seasonal plate movements. The mesh is not nailed to the ceiling, but is attached to the composition. In this case, when the first layer of plaster is applied, a polymer mesh is laid, drawn over it with a spatula, deepening it into the mixture and at the same time forming a relief for the next portion of the mortar.

It happens that the crack in the seam is too deep, and it is impossible to eliminate it in this way. Then it is treated with "Betonokontakt".

1. Sealing with mounting foam. Its amount should be about 1/3 of the volume of the gap, the walls of which are moistened with water to polymerize the foam. A day later, a primer is applied and plastered in two to three layers.
2. The rags are moistened with Betonokontak and hammered into the slot. Leave for 24 hours and plaster.

To seal the joints of the plates on the ceiling surface, a composition with polymer additives or high-quality tile adhesive is used.

Features of applying plaster on lighthouses

If you have the skills to prepare the surface of the walls, then it will be easier to cope with the work. The fact is that the plaster of walls and ceilings has much in common, although there are still differences. The most difficult thing is the need to keep your hands up. They get tired quickly, like the neck, because you have to throw your head back.

Preparatory stage

Before plastering the ceiling with your own hands, its surface is cleaned from old materials to the very concrete base. After that, dust is removed using a construction vacuum cleaner. If there is no such device, then a large brush is used so that there is no sand and debris.

If the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete slabs and there are large rustications in it, they need to be repaired. When the solution dries on them, a primer is applied to a clean base. After a day, you can continue to work.

Beacon installation process

The first thing they do when they plaster the ceiling on the lighthouses is to install them. But first, the minimum and maximum height difference is determined using a special laser device - a level. The plane builder is placed under the ceiling and turned on for a horizontal scan.

Then, at several points, the distance from the ceiling surface to the luminous beam is measured. As a result, the maximum and minimum deviation values ​​are determined. The plaster is laid in a layer whose thickness exceeds the largest deviation.

The same operation can be performed using the water level, but it will be much more complicated:

• first, at an arbitrary distance from the floor, a horizontal line is drawn on the walls around the perimeter of the room;
• one end of the level is fixed at this mark;
• with the second, they go around the room in order to measure the distance between the water column in the level and the ceiling, thus determining the minimum and maximum points.

After the layer size is determined, beacons are selected - perforated
galvanized planks with protruding backs. It is they who will become the supports for leveling the solution. The height of such a back can be 6 and 10 millimeters. You need to choose products for which this value exceeds the maximum deviation.

The beacons are set in increments slightly less than the length of the rule - a tool for leveling and cutting the solution. When its length is 1.5 meters, then the planks are placed with an interval of 1.1 - 1.3 meters. First, they retreat from the walls 20 - 30 centimeters and install extreme beacons. The remaining distance is divided so that the interval between the bars is in the given parameter.

To fix the beacons, a gypsum mortar is used, kneading it thickly. Small handfuls of this mixture are applied along the plank line. Beacons are pressed into them, exposing their backs in the desired plane. If there is a level, the beam from it should slide over them.

When work is done using a water level, the line of the ceiling surface is transferred to the walls and several laces are pulled so that they are directed along the lighthouses. According to this markup, expose the backs. After mounting all the beacons, the plane is checked by the rule with a bubble level installed on it.

A few hours later, when the gypsum sets, they begin the final stage of work, having previously decided how to plaster the concrete ceiling.

Applying plaster

For further work, stable construction goats are needed, and from the tools - a spatula and a platform with a handle (falcon). The selected plaster composition is diluted in accordance with the instructions. It is necessary that the solution is homogeneous, without lumps.

The putty is spread on the falcon and placed in small portions with a spatula on the ceiling. The solution fills the distance between the beacons. First, the width of the strip is made from 50 to 60 centimeters, while it is not necessary to achieve a uniform surface.

Then they take the rule, rest it on the beacons and move it towards themselves, swaying from one side to the other. As a result, a little solution remains on it. It is removed with a spatula and applied to the ceiling - to its unfilled part or to where there are pits. Then the rule is moved again.

These steps are repeated until the surface area is level. Then fill in the second lane and so on. The ceiling is allowed to dry for 5 to 8 hours. When the solution has seized, but has not yet completely dried, you need to remove the beacons, otherwise they will rust and rusty stains may appear on the surface.

Rusts after the planks are filled with mortar and leveled with a wide spatula to the same level with the ceiling plane. It takes about 5-7 days for the plaster to dry completely.