Diseases of roses are mainly found on flower beds of inexperienced gardeners who pay little attention to pre-planting soil treatment, the choice of seedlings, and also naively think that flowers do not get sick. So that you also know why rose buds dry, and how to cope with the main diseases of these flowers, below we have prepared instructions for their treatment.

Why do roses hurt?

Anyone who loves roses should know their diseases, as well as the reasons for their occurrence. Flowers can hurt for various reasons, and basically all of them are associated with the carelessness of the gardener:

So when planting roses, it is important to properly prepare the soil and choose neighbors in the flower bed, as well as not forget about regular feeding and pruning. If you had to deal with diseases of roses, then we have prepared their description and treatment below.

Did you know? Roses are not only a horticultural crop, they are also found in the wild, and some of them are capable of showing incredible endurance. For example, there is a variety of these flowers that has successfully taken root even in the Arctic Circle.

Methods for dealing with an infectious burn

An infectious burn manifests itself on rose bushes in the form of reddish spots, which over time can regenerate and completely kill the plant. The reason for the development of this problem in the rose garden is the excessive accumulation of moisture under the cover during the winter, excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil and weakening of the shoots due to the presence of wounds. The fungus that causes a rose burn can be spread from plant to plant through pruning shears.

The most effective way to deal with an infectious burn is to regularly carry out its prevention:

• remove leaves and shoots that have infection lesions;
• before sheltering for the winter, spray the bushes and the soil around them with a solution of ferrous sulfate (about 30 g per liter of water);
• it is necessary to cover rose bushes only in dry weather with an air temperature not higher than + 10 ° С;
• after removing the shelter from the bushes, they can also be treated with a Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%;
• when pruning shoots on roses, all tools must be disinfected;
• it is important to get rid of vegetative shoots from the affected areas by cutting them out and treating them with garden pitch.

How to remove rust from roses, and why it appears

Another disease is rose rust, the causative agent of which is presented in the form of a particularly dangerous fungus. He is able to spray his own spores, thereby infecting neighboring plants. You can notice rust on the rose bushes in the spring, since this disease leads to cracking of last year's shoots and the raining of pollen from them. Most susceptible to this disease are weak plants that do not have enough nutrients and moisture. In some cases, the appearance of rust is caused by weather conditions.

In order to prevent the appearance of rust on roses and help flowers get rid of it, it is important to use the following rules:

1. Try to open your rose bushes as early as possible in the spring so they don't get worn out.
2. Affected and dead shoots must be cut out and burned.
3. To maintain the vital functions of the affected plants, they are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux liquid, adding 4 g of it per liter of water.
4. In order not to bring the disease into the rose garden through an infected seedling, be sure to dip it in a 1% solution of copper sulfate before planting.
5. If you cannot get rid of rust on the plant within a year, donate it, otherwise the infection will spread to other inhabitants of the flower bed.

Also, do not forget that roses like to grow in a sunny place and need a rich fertile soil... The soil under the rose bushes should have good drainage, and the acidity should not go beyond the value of 7.5. Strong bushes will be more rust resistant.

Important! For good growth, roses require a lot of moisture, but they need to be watered rarely, but at the same time very abundantly.

Powdery mildew: removing powdery mildew from the leaves and stem of the plant

This disease does not manifest itself only if the air humidity does not rise above 60%, and the temperature is in the range from 16 to 18 ° C. In a situation with unstable weather conditions, it is difficult to avoid its occurrence. Often, powdery mildew forms mold on the roses, which makes them completely unsightly, since the disease affects the stems, and leaves, and buds, and even thorns. The longer the plant hurts, the wider the plaque spots become. Since from powdery mildew often young shoots of plants suffer, without taking measures to combat the disease, the rose may not bloom.

To cope with powdery mildew and prevent its reoccurrence, it is necessary to resort to the following measures:

1. Every autumn, cut off all diseased shoots, and burn the leaves that have fallen from them.

2. Digging a flower bed, in which the raised layer must be turned over, which will lead to the death of pathogens from insufficient air.

3. Spraying roses in autumn with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.

4. Spraying the bushes during the growing season with a copper-soap solution (200-300 household or liquid soap per 9 liters of rainwater, into which it is necessary to pour another liter of water, in which 25-30 g of copper sulfate was previously dissolved).

5. Spraying roses with a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1%). This is necessary to stimulate plant growth, as well as to increase their "immunity" to disease.

6. Feeding flowers with fertilizers that contain potassium. But in no case should you use nitrogen, as it will only aggravate the situation.

7. When powdery mildew on roses progresses especially strongly, the bushes can be sprayed with a solution of 50 g of soda ash in 10 liters of water.

8. In autumn and spring, the soil around the bushes should be fertilized with ash in a concentration of no more than 120 g per 1 m2. In this case, it must be slightly covered with a top layer of soil. Sick bushes can be sprayed with an infusion of ash (for this, a solution of 100 g of ash and 10 liters of water is prepared, which should stand for 5 days), which must be done every 7 days.

9. To fight the mycelium will help and infusion of mullein, which for 10 liters of water will need about 1 kg. Spraying should also be done once a week.

It is important to spray the bushes until the traces of powdery mildew completely disappear.

Important! It is necessary to sprinkle roses not with peat, but with ordinary sand. Thanks to this, during the first thaw, the bushes will not start growing, but will continue to sleep until real heat arrives.

Leaf spot and its elimination

You can get rid of spotting only by applying a whole range of measures:

• it is important to immediately cut off and burn all affected shoots and leaves;
• every autumn, soil digging is carried out, in which it is important to completely turn the soil layers in order to limit the access of air;
• the use of a special preparation for spraying bushes, which should be carried out both in autumn and early spring.

How to deal with gray rot: a description of the disease

Gray rot is dangerous because, with almost completely healthy shoots, the affected rose bushes will still not be able to bloom, since the fungus of this disease often infects the buds and upper parts of the shoots. The most susceptible to this disease are whites and pink roses that receive insufficient nutrition and moisture. The fungus of gray rot is quite resistant to temperature extremes, therefore it calmly survives the winter, and in the spring it continues its reproduction with the help of spores.

This disease is also inherent in strawberry and wild strawberry bushes, planting roses near which is not recommended. To prevent the development of gray rot, rose bushes should be planted in a wide enough space so that each plant is well lit. It is better to water roses in the morning or in the middle of the day, since after the evening watering they will not have time to dry out by night.

It is better to pluck and burn all affected plants in order to destroy the fungus itself. At the first signs of gray rot, a decoction of horsetail can be used for spraying, and if the lesions have spread strongly through the bushes, it is better to resort to a solution of foundationol in an amount of 0.2% per liter of water.

Bacterial cancer on roses

Rose Bacterial Cancer is one of the most common problems that gardeners have to deal with. This disease can affect not only the stems, but also the roots of the flower, which is why it is rarely possible to save it.

Root cancer

This type of disease is characterized by the formation of hard growths on the roots of the plant, which eventually begin to rot. This leads to the drying out of the bush, since the growths prevent moisture from entering the shoots. The cause of root cancer development in rose bushes damage to their root system during planting, as well as growing flowers on clay soils with a high nitrogen content.

If you notice such symptoms on your rose bushes, be sure to cut off all growths and dip the entire root system in 1% solution of copper sulfate. After that, the roots are washed in water, and the plant can be planted in specially prepared soil.

However, if the roots of the rose are completely affected by cancer, and there are traces of it even on the root collar, it is better to burn the plant right away.

Rose stem cancer needs immediate treatment, since its pathogen stably reacts even to severe winter frosts and can rage especially intensely in spring. It can take up to 3 years for a plant to completely heal.

In the process of combating stem cancer in rose bushes, it is important to regularly examine the flowers and remove any affected areas. Every year, when the kidneys swell, the affected bushes need to be treated with a solution of zinc sulfate (for this, dilute 300 g of the substance in a liter of water).

For preventive spraying, you can also use solutions from:

Copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid - 200 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water;

Copper oxychloride (for 10 l - 40 g of substance);

Topsina-M (for 10 liters of water - 20 g).

A plant weakened by cancer will also need additional feeding. To do this, at the end of summer, it is useful to strengthen the rose bushes with fertilizers rich in potassium. Before sheltering for the winter, it is important to spray such roses with 2% bordeaux acid.

Cytosporosis and its treatment

The symptom of this disease is cardinal structural change bark on the shoots of rose bushes. Under the influence of the causative agent of cytosporosis, it first becomes brown, and then begins to die off. Also, over time, many inflamed bumps appear on the surface of the affected areas, and the bark itself begins to pee.

Treatment of cytosporosis consists in treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux liquid. It is important to carry out this processing even before the blooming of the bushes. All affected areas of the plant must be cut off and burned in a timely manner.

Did you know? Sometimes small rosebuds are not the result of a lack of flower care or their diseases, but a feature of the variety. So, for a variety of roses called "C" the size blooming bud does not exceed the size of one grain of rice.

Viral wilting

This disease is also common. It is characterized by the painful development of bushes: shoots and leaves grow strongly, but at the same time they have a deformed appearance, the leaves are threadlike. Over time, shoots and leaves turn brown, as a result, buds do not form on the bushes, by the end of summer such a bush usually dries up.

Fighting viral wilting is almost impossible. It is important to cut off and burn all affected shoots in a timely manner, and if the disease has affected the entire bush, it will be correct to dig it up and completely burn it. It should be understood that viral wilting can be transmitted from bush to bush through a pruner, which is important to disinfect when working in a rose garden.

Disease prevention

It is important to carry out preventive actions to prevent the appearance of diseases on rose bushes annually. In particular, the treatment of roses from fungus with Bordeaux liquid should be carried out both in the fall, before the bushes are sheltered from frost, and in the spring, even before the start of their growth. When planting rose bushes, it is also important to prepare a clean, nutritious soil that is free from fungi and other pathogens.

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Being a capricious flower, the rose is quite often infected with various diseases. This becomes clear in its appearance: a characteristic bloom appears on the leaves and buds, or spots and dryness appear. The plant begins to fade before our eyes, and it needs to be provided the right help... Roses are often infected from neighboring shrubs or weeds, so when planting a rose, you should retreat a distance of at least 50 centimeters from neighboring plantings.

Fungal (bacterial) diseases

A fungal infection is based on a fungal spore. It grows quickly and is easily transmitted from the infected plant to the roses. If one or another sign of a fungal infection is detected, treatment is immediately started so that the fungus does not spread further. The most common diseases are:

• Stem cancer. The disease occurs due to a fungal infection of the flower, also called Infection burn. Infection occurs in spring or autumn. The fungus enters the stem through its microcracks and multiplies. The growth of the fungus will be provoked by fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, as well as rainy weather, no wind. Signs of stem cancer infection are the gray-brown stem of the flower, on which ulcers develop. Over time, black blotches form on the ulcers - pycnidia.

The most effective way the fight against cancer is stripping the stem from ulcers sandpaper or with a knife. Places where ulcers are cut off are treated with potassium permanganate or garden pitch. To prevent the fungus from spreading to the next bushes, the affected plant is sprayed with the HOM fungicide. For the prevention of cancer, a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid is used, which is evenly sprayed over all the bushes. The liquid will prevent the spread of fungal spores and protect the roses from infection.

• Rust. The disease occurs due to the spread of the Phragmidium fungus. The defeat occurs in the spring, most often in April. Red (rusty) spots appear on the infected leaves. Then the entire leaf dries up and falls off. New young shoots twist into a tube, then crack and fall off as well. Treatment is carried out with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid. It is sprayed over the entire height of the bush. Preparations containing zinc and copper are effectively combating rust. These substances include Topaz, Abiga-Peak, Bayleton.

• Powdery mildew. One of the most common types of the disease. The fungus primarily affects young shoots, less often buds and leaves. The development of the disease proceeds well with warm temperature and high humidity. Signs of the disease are manifested by the presence of dark red spots and drying of the leaf plate. On the shoot, pustules are formed - white pads, which contain fungal spores. For the treatment of powdery mildew, fungicides Fundazol, Topsin-M, Bayleton help. It is forbidden to feed the rose with nitrogen supplements during treatment. All infected shoots and bushes are cut and burned, the cut sites are treated with hydrogen peroxide or garden varnish.

• Gray rot. Rose infection occurs by infection from neighboring plants. The spread of the fungus Botrytis cinerea is expressed by dark spots that form on the sprout. The leaves and petals of the flower may have a yellowish tint, and then quickly fade. Over time, a gray coating with a fluffy layer appears on them. The growth of the fungus is provoked by high humidity and excessive watering of the soil. The use of fungicides such as Euparen or Fundazole helps with gray mold. Infected shoots are immediately removed from the bush and burned. Dry leaves and branches are also pruned.

Viral diseases

The virus infects the rose instantly, quickly spreads to neighboring shoots. The bush becomes infected with viral infections from neighboring plants. With timely and quick treatment the infection can be defeated without sad consequences, and with advanced stages, the rose dies.

• Striping virus. Any plant can become an infectious object. The infection is manifested by the formation of a burgundy-brown edging along the perimeter of the leaf. Then the leaf begins to turn black and die off. The main measure to combat striping is considered to be the pruning of affected leaves. The cut sites are treated with potassium permanganate or peroxide.

• Viral wilting. The disease manifests itself in a special way: fox roses become elongated and narrow, and then acquire a brown color and disappear. Bud formation is scarce, and soon stops altogether. Gradually, all the shoots become thinner and dry out. First of all, after wilting is detected, the bad infected shoots are cut off and the cut is treated with garden pitch. The disease is difficult to treat effective solution the only problem is pruning the bush. If a whole rose bush is infected, then it is dug up and burned so that the disease does not spread to healthy flowers.

• Tobacco necrosis virus. The disease is transmitted with the juice contained in the shoots and zoospores. In the initial stage, the formation of spotting on the leaves of the rose occurs, and then there is an intense darkening of the leaf and its fall. Drugs from the group of insecticides, which are aimed at destroying insects, fight necrosis.

• Mosaic virus. Mosaic is considered one of the most common diseases. If round necrotic spots appear on the leaves of the plant, this is the first sign of infection with the mosaic virus. The disease is transmitted through the sap of the plant; a nematode can be a carrier. The mosaic is difficult to treat, so the infected shoots are pruned and burned.

Noncommunicable diseases

Most often, roses begin to “feel unwell” due to a lack of nutrients in the soil or because of an unfavorable climate. This has nothing to do with the defeat of the bush with fungal or viral diseases. The lack of nutrients in the earth is manifested in different ways. This could be:

• rapid withering of buds. May be caused by a lack of potassium, magnesium or manganese in the earth;
• poor bud formation. Most often occurs when there is a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil;
• yellowing of the leaves. The cause may be an excess of nitrogen in the earth or a lack of iron;
• falling leaves. The lack of magnesium makes the leaves less durable, they quickly fall off.

To establish a specific reason, the rose must be observed for several days. Then you need to make the desired top dressing. Sometimes the use of organic fertilizers based on mullein, chicken manure or peat. The introduction of complex liquid additives with a rich elemental composition has a good effect on roses.

Important! All additives are diluted in advance with water in accordance with the instructions for use of the drug.

Folk remedies for treatment

The old and proven methods are still popular today because they work effectively and do not harm the rose. A mixture of ash and rotted mullein is very successful in the fight against powdery mildew. Take 1 kilogram of manure and a glass of ash on a bucket of water. The mixture is infused for a week, and then the whole plant is pollinated with a solution. Pollination is carried out in the morning 1-2 times a week.

Getting rid of fungal spores can be helped by the usual laundry soap... The contaminated areas are lathered with a foamed sponge and left to soak for 2-3 hours. Then clean water wash off the soap from the surface of the leaves and trunk. The soap is not applied to the buds. The procedure can be repeated after a couple of days.

Onions and garlic can help fight insects and bacterial infections. 3 heads of onion or 2-3 heads of garlic are chopped in a blender, and then transferred to a saucepan and poured with 3-4 liters of water. The infusion is kept at room temperature for 5-7 days, filtered. Spray the solution onto the leaves and stem 2 times a week for a month.

Disease prevention

In order not to have to deal with diseases, and even more so with their treatment, roses must be processed for prevention purposes. Disease prevention is carried out in the spring - this is the most vulnerable time for infection. Excellent drug copper sulfate serves for this purpose. Its 3% diluted solution is sprayed over the bush when the rose buds are still closed. Bordeaux liquid has a similar effect.

Mullein and ash have a preventive effect. Their liquid mixture is applied to the leaves and stem of the rose in the first half of summer. Preparations Zircon, Euparen, Tilt, Bayleton can also be used to prevent the formation of fungal and viral infections, they do not harm the flower and are well tolerated.

Attention! The optimal time for processing a rose is mid-April - end of May. When treating with drugs, it is better to refuse fertilizers.

With timely prevention, roses will never have to be treated. Of course, there are times when the flower withers and sheds its leaves, but in most cases this is caused by a lack of vitamins. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to choose the right additive, and the rose will continue to grow actively and please with an attractive appearance.

The queen of flowers, the rose, is undoubtedly the beauty of any flower bed. The variety of varieties of roses today provides an opportunity to create wonderful compositions with these flowers. They are planted in separate rose gardens or among other flowers, in any case they are very beautiful. But this beauty requires a lot of sacrifices. The very procedure for breeding roses is quite difficult. This flower is demanding, delicate, it needs to be protected from the external environment. Unfortunately, roses do not only suffer from bad weather or pests. Quite often they get sick. What diseases of roses exist, how to deal with them, or how to prevent them altogether? This is what will be discussed in our article.

Description of diseases with photos and videos

Rust is a disease of early spring

It is in those years when spring is warm and rainy that roses most often suffer from rust. The problem manifests itself even during the period when the plants are blooming. Spores appear as a dusty orange mass. It can be observed near the leaves, also in the area of ​​the root collar.

V summer period the disease is visible on back side leaflets. There are peculiar red-colored pads. The appearance of these sporulation negatively affects the whole plant. Its functions and abilities are impaired: photosynthesis, metabolism. When the disease develops, the plant loses its decorative view... Leaves, flowers and buds begin to be depressed and deformed.

How to prevent

There are three main rules to follow. First, it is necessary to thin out the bushes, removing dried branches, flowers, every year at the end of summer. Secondly, with the onset of autumn, it is important to process the plants. bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate(3%). And thirdly, roses must be sprayed according to the instructions. chemicals stimulating plant immunity. Suitable, for example, "Zircon", "Immunocytophyte", etc.

How to fix

The fight against this disease includes the following measures:

• Affected shoots must be cut off;
• The leaves are collected and necessarily burned;
• They dig up the soil;
• Copper-soap treatment during vegetation.

Folk remedies

You can try to remove rust with this remedy. Mixed 1 tbsp. l. soda, 1 tsp. means used for washing dishes, 1 tbsp. l. vegetable oil, plus 1 gallon of water and 1 tablet of aspirin dissolved in water. The mixture of these ingredients should be sprayed once every 1 to 2 weeks.

Rust is the worst disease of roses: video

Black spot - summer rain disease

Most of all, this problem spreads in those regions where there is frequent precipitation in the second half of summer. At first, only small dark spots appear. Until the end of July, they can already become large, sporulation is formed on them. Then the leaves begin to fall off, first the top ones, and then all the way down. When the disease is very widespread, the leaves darken completely. They begin to dry up, and then disappear altogether.

Spores and mycelium of this pathogen perfectly tolerate winter, being on the leaves and shoots of the plant.

How to prevent

Every autumn, it is necessary to spray all the bushes with 3% copper sulfate. This procedure must be performed before the shelter for the winter. The prevention system includes the same measures that are taken to fight the disease.

Control measures

They include the destruction of all diseased parts of the plant. The leaves are harvested and burned, just like the shoots. Digging also needs to be done, preferably with a turnover of the formation. From ready-made preparations for processing are suitable "Captan", "Fundazol", "Topaz", "Skor".

How the people fight

It should be noted right away that to cure a rose from black spot with the help of one folk remedies will most likely fail. This has long been tested by many gardeners. But for prevention, they are great.

You can spray the plant with a solution of water and iodine. The latter needs to be taken 1 ml, which is enough for 400 ml of liquid. Another way is to water the mullein with a solution. It is diluted about 1 in 10, after which it is left to infuse for several days. Such watering is allowed during the period from the removal of the winter shelter and before the buds bloom.

You can process the whole plant with a decoction of garlic and onion husks. Approximately 30-40 g of this waste is poured with water and boiled. After that, the solution should be infused for at least 6 hours.

Black spot is the scourge of all gardeners: video

This disease is familiar to all gardeners and gardeners. The fact is that it affects not only flowers, but also very a large number of diverse cultures.

Already from the name itself it can be understood that outward sign this disease is the presence of a substance that resembles a powder. Its color can be gray, white. Almost all top part plants are affected by this disease.

Preventive measures

They include several basic tasks:

• Do not allow rose bushes to thicken. It is very important to thin out the plants.
• It is necessary to apply nitrogenous fertilizers strictly according to the calendar. If you oversaturate the soil with them, especially after mid-summer, it will lead to illness.
• It is necessary to use fungicides even during the formation of flower buds. For this, the following drugs are suitable: "Fundazol", "Baylon", etc.
• It is necessary to add potassium sulfate at the beginning of the second half of summer.

How to overcome

The simplest, but most important, activities will be useful - pruning all the shoots that are affected by the disease, as well as collecting leaves and destroying them in a fire. The soil is dug up only with the seam turnover. So the pathogens will suffer from lack of air and may die. During the period of awakening or falling asleep, the bush is treated with copper sulfate or potassium sulfate with copper sulfate. Spraying is carried out with such means as colloidal sulfur (1% suspension), or soda ash(for 10 l of water 50 g of substance).

Traditional methods

There are many ways to deal with this problem as it is so common. One proven method is zonal grout. It is prepared from 1 kg of sifted ash and 10 liters of water. The liquid should be warm. It is necessary to insist the agent for at least 3 days, stirring every 20-25 hours.

Peronosporosis - a disease of bad weather

Experts note that hybrid tea varieties of rose bushes most often suffer from this disease. Plants usually suffer, which are located in the shade, while with poor air ventilation around. Typically, the problem manifests itself during a period when the humidity is high and the temperature drops sharply.

The symptoms of the disease are as follows. At first, spots of an incomprehensible shape appear. They are purple or red in color. When the disease develops, the leaves wither, weaken. Then they twist and, in the end, just die. The stems suffer from cracks, the buds also begin to die off and darken.

If you look at the leaf through a magnifying glass, you can see a cobweb plaque on the reverse side.

How to prevent

Downy mildew or downy mildew can be prevented. It is necessary to regularly remove weeds, as well as destroy fallen leaves. This also applies to shoots, whole plants that have suffered.

Digging with seam turnover is required every autumn. Nitrogen fertilizers should be treated with caution and applied in moderation. It is necessary to carefully monitor the soil, ventilation and temperature regime... It is important to ensure that no water gets on the leaves while watering.

How to eliminate the disease among the people

For a long time, the bushes were treated against downy mildew with decoctions of horsetail, garlic husks, solutions of ash, iodine and milk. The last remedy is prepared as follows: 1 liter of milk (skim) and no more than 10 drops of iodine (5%) are added to 9 liters of water.

Horsetail decoction is prepared as follows. It is necessary to prepare 1 kg of fresh plant or 150 g of dried plant. At night, the raw materials must be soaked in 10 liters of water. After that, the infusion should boil and cook for about 30 minutes. After cooling, the substance must be filtered and diluted in a ratio of 1 to 5.

Anthracnose - a cold spring problem

Although this disease is quite common, it is not yet fully understood. The first symptoms are small dark spots... They can be confusing and can be confused with black spot. But over time, the spots change. They turn red, purple, or brown. Their center is usually lighter, sometimes a hole forms in it.

Prophylaxis

A mandatory event is pruning. All affected areas, including stems and leaves, are subject to it. Then all the waste must be burned, which will help prevent the spread of the fungus.

Every autumn it is necessary to clean the bushes and the area around them. This will prevent re-infection.

How to fix the problem

When traces of anthracnose have already been noticed on the rose bushes, it is urgent to apply microbiological preparations. "Gamair" or "Fitosporin-M" are perfect. In autumn, rose bushes can be treated with such drugs as Ridomil, Fundazol, etc. It is advisable to alternate them, otherwise the plants become addictive.

Infectious burn - the problem of injured flowers

A rose bush can become infected with this disease during a dormant period - in autumn or spring. For example, if there is no proper care, then the spores of the fungus enter the stems through cracks that have appeared due to severe frosts. Another way of infection is wounds that are formed with improper trimming or processing after it. Weather conditions also contribute to infection - no wind, too high humidity... Also, late fertilization with nitrogenous substances can lead to a deterioration in the condition.

This disease is also called stem cancer. It manifests itself in the form of dark ulcers on the stems, which lead to the death of the shoots. Over time, blackheads can also be noticed on the ulcers, which help the disease spread.

Prevention of an infectious burn

• First, in no case should the plants be allowed to freeze. This provokes the appearance of cracks through which infection occurs.
• Secondly, the shelter must be carried out in a timely manner and in the right conditions... The temperature should not exceed 10 0 С, and the humidity should be moderate.
• It is important to cultivate the soil before hiding. special means: Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper sulfate (3%).
• It is very important to disinfect the tools before pruning roses.
• Spraying with potash fertilizers from the beginning of the second half of summer.

How to treat

All shoots that are already damaged by the disease must be removed. But in this case, it is important not to damage the ulcers. Small wounds need to be cleaned sharp knife for example, for paper, to healthy flesh. Then they are covered with garden pitch. Sick bushes must be treated with the HOM fungicide every week.

Infectious burn after winter on roses: video

A problem arises in conditions such as too dense planting, cold air and high humidity, as well as improper use of nitrogenous fertilizers. The main symptom of this disease is gray spots. They can be seen on all parts of the bush: leaves, flowers, stems and even buds. With the development of the disease, these spots turn yellow, rotten areas appear, they begin to die off.

How to carry out prevention

Precautions include constant loosening of the soil. Mulching is also important. It is also necessary to make those fertilizers that prevent the reproduction of fungi. These include manganese-containing preparations. They enhance oxidative processes inside the plant.

Treatment

It depends on the stage of development of the disease. If it is just beginning, then the following steps must be taken:

• All diseased parts, shoots must be destroyed;
• Plants need to provide dry living conditions.

If the plant has already been badly damaged, then you cannot do without special substances. It is necessary to spray roses with a solution of "Fundazol" (0.2%). There is one more measure - the most extreme one. Every two weeks, the bushes need to be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%).

Folk ways

This disease is often difficult to overcome with light decoctions or infusions. But, like other fungal diseases, gray rot can be prevented or eliminated with horsetail decoction.

Gray and root rot: video

Rose is a thorny plant, but very delicate. It lends itself to various diseases, but because of this, you should not give up growing this crop. You just need to know what and how to do to overcome the disease. Then there will be incomparable, beautiful flower queens in your garden.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably lying on the ground, but this experience should not be repeated in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, a garter. My neighbors use all kinds of pegs, garters, loops, pre-made plant supports, and mesh fences. Each method of fixing a plant in an upright position has its own advantages and “ side effects". I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises, and what comes of it.

Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers of infectious diseases that are dangerous for both humans and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of nasty insects. In this article we will tell you about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly protection and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of preparations for getting rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and at no extra cost.

Summer months are the time of blooming of hydrangeas. This beautiful deciduous shrub smells luxuriously with flowers from June to September. Florists willingly use large inflorescences for wedding decors and bouquets. To admire the beauty flowering bush hydrangeas in your garden, it is worth taking care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom from year to year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. Why this happens, we will tell in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects appearance and the harvest of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But at the same time, not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and micronutrients for plant health. And they are important not only by themselves, but also for the effective assimilation of the same nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberry, or strawberry, as we used to call it, is one of the earliest fragrant berries that summer gives us generously. How happy we are at this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat itself every year, we need to take care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in spring and berries in summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory snack for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon peels have been pickled since time immemorial, but this process is laborious and time-consuming. According to my recipe, just cook a pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening a spicy snack will be ready. Stored watermelon marinated with spices and chili in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - chilled this appetizer will just lick your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in simplicity with the main modest - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not apply to the appearance of the plant. Reddening stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots that form, although very large, but also a strikingly graceful silhouette, look very elegant. The blushing philodendron requires only one thing - at least minimal maintenance.

Chickpea Thick Soup with Vegetables and Egg - A simple recipe for a hearty first course based on oriental cuisine... Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and the countries of Southeast Asia. The spices and seasonings set the tone - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spices, which can be collected to your liking. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in ghee (ghee) or mix olive and butter, it is certainly not the same, but it tastes like it.

Plum - well, who doesn't know her ?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent yields, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and huge choice the color, shape and taste of the fruit. Yes, somewhere she feels better, somewhere worse, but almost no summer resident refuses the pleasure of growing it on her site. Today it can be found not only in the south, in middle lane, but also in the Urals, in Siberia.

Many ornamental and fruit crops, in addition to drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period suffer from the sun's rays, enhanced by reflection from the snow. In this article we will tell you about a unique preparation for plant protection against sunburn and droughts - Sanshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March Sun rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

"Each vegetable has its own term", and each plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has come across planting is well aware that the hot season for planting plants is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring, the plants have not yet moved in explosive growth, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop in such a way that planting has to be carried out at the very height of summer.

Chile con carne translated from Spanish- chili with meat. It is a Texan and Mexican dish, the main ingredients of which are chili peppers and ground beef. In addition to the main products there is a bow, carrots, tomatoes, beans. This recipe makes chili and red lentils delicious! The dish is fiery, scorching, very satisfying and awesomely tasty! You can cook a large saucepan, put it in containers and freeze - there will be a delicious dinner for a whole week.

Cucumber is one of the most beloved garden crops our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although the cultivation of cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about pinching cucumbers. For what, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell in the article. An important point The agricultural technique of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely environmentally friendly, healthy fruits and vegetables in own garden... Microbiological fertilizer Atlant will help in this. It contains bacteria-helpers, which settle in the zone of the root system and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, stay healthy and give high yields. Typically, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms, you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the assortment of the best indoor plants many flowering species. In summer, when they receive the brightest lighting and optimal daylight hours, they are able to outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops look like living bouquets.

Growing garden roses associated with a lot of trouble, the only reward for which is a rich flowering. It is not surprising that having found blackened buds on the bushes, rose growers are very annoyed. Why rosebuds can turn black and how to cope with it, is described in this article.

Determining the causes of blackening by symptoms

Rosebuds can turn black for a variety of reasons. Fortunately, there are not so many of them, and it is not difficult to identify the problem (Read also the article ⇒). You can do this by symptoms that complement the blackening of the buds:

Additional symptoms					The reason for the blackening of the buds
Sporulation	Mucus on the petals	Blackening of the stems	Leaf spots	The presence of insects
—	+	—	+	—	Overmoistening of air and soil
+	—	+	+	—	Peronosporosis (downy mildew)
+	+	+	+	—	Gray rot
—	—	—	—	+	Defeat by thrips

You should also pay attention to the nature of the blackening of the buds themselves:

• The blackness of only the outer petals, which is accompanied by a general softening, mucousness and wilting of the bud, yellowing and wilting of the leaves, is a sign of waterlogging of the rose garden.
• Blackness and dropping of the outer petals, various spots on the leaves with a bloom on the underside are a sign of peronosporosis.
• Black ulceration with mucous formations on buds, browning of petals, dark gray bloom of sporulation - gray rot.
• Blackening by spots on the outer and inner petals, detection of black small insects during breakage - defeat by thrips.

Depending on the identified problem, further actions are planned.

Tip # 1. Blackening of buds is observed most often on thickened roses with poor ventilation shoots, high humidity inside the bush. One of the most important preventive measures is adherence to the planting scheme and timely pruning of the plant.

Normalization of moisture in bushes with blackened buds

The easiest way to normalize humidity is if the roses are grown in a greenhouse or conservatory. Here it is enough to organize ventilation, remove the mulch for a while, stop watering and dry upper layer soil.

It is much more difficult to influence the humidity in open rose gardens. Most often it occurs due to prolonged rains, and in this situation, you can only slightly reduce the consequences by the following manipulations:

• cut off the blackened buds along with the peduncles;
• thin out the crown of the bush as best as possible, ensuring maximum ventilation;
• at climbing roses arrange the lashes in a fan so that they do not intertwine and are less in contact with each other;
• lift the lashes of ground cover roses from the ground and lay them on the stakes;
• remove mulch, which is prone to mold and decay, replace it with mulching non-woven material;
• if possible, install a film canopy over the bushes;
• treat roses with Siliplant.

Siliplant is a micronutrient fertilizer containing silicon and potassium. Under stressful conditions, it acts not only as a supplement, but also as an immunomodulator and adaptogen.

Elimination of fungal infections on roses

When blackening of buds caused by peronosporosis or gray rot, it is necessary to prune diseased peduncles, leaves and shoots. The cut material is burned, and the bushes are treated with fungicidal preparations:

Treatment against peronosporosis		Gray mold treatment
A drug	Application	A drug	Application
Previkur Energy	Dilute 25 ml in 5 liters of water and spray the roses Dissolve 15 ml in 10 liters of water and shed the trunk circle	"Teldor"	Dilute 10 g in 10 liters of water and spray roses
Ridomil Gold	Dilute 25 g in 5 liters of water and spray the roses	"Switch"	Dilute 2 g in 10 l of water and spray roses

Spraying for fungal infections should be done in the morning or evening, in the absence of wind and direct sun. One day after the antifungal treatment, feed with Siliplant.

Tip # 2. To increase the immunity of roses to various infections, including those that cause blackening of the buds, the plants must be fed with potassium in a timely manner. For emergency you can apply liquid potash fertilizers in the form of humates, sprinkling them on the leaves of roses.

Fungal infections develop under conditions high humidity therefore, its normalization is a necessary part of the treatment.

Fighting thrips on roses

The defeat of thrips is one of the most serious troubles that lie in wait for the rose grower. These small insects settle right inside the buds, feeding on their juices. This state of affairs provokes drying out and further blackening of the petals, and then the complete death of the flower.

Due to the rapid adaptation of thrips to chemical attack and high speed reproduction, the fight against them on roses sometimes drags on for a long time. The following insecticides are most effective:

• Fitoverm - dilute 20 ml in 10 liters of water and treat infected bushes. Being a biological preparation, "Fitoverm" does not cause the development of addiction in insects.
• "Vertimek" - dilute 5 ml in 10 liters of water and process the bushes. The drug exhibits maximum efficiency in the initial stages of rose infestation with thrips.
• "Intavir" - dilute 1 tablet in 10 liters of water and spray the roses. When processing, it must be borne in mind that the drug is easily washed off, therefore, it is ineffective in rainy weather.

Before treatment with insecticides, the infected peduncles will have to be cut off from the rose. The fact is that the preparations will not be able to “reach” the insects inside the bud. Also, the rose grower should be ready to carry out not one, but a whole series of sprays with an interval of 10-15 days.

In addition to spraying on leaves and shoots, you will have to process and trunk circles where thrips eggs may be. To do this, you need to move the mulch, loosen the soil and spill it with the same insecticide as the vegetative mass of roses.

The fight against thrips will be more successful if you rotate the preparations, and apply a new one in each subsequent treatment.

Topical questions about blackening rosebuds

Question number 1. Can the buds turn black due to the antifungal treatment with iron sulfate?

If roses were sprayed iron vitriol in the spring, and even more so in the budding phase, of course, blackening and dying off of the buds is inevitable. This drug is extremely aggressive towards young people. soft tissues plants. The treatment of roses with iron vitriol is possible only in late autumn, on the ripened wood of the shoots. If a mistake was still made, and the roses were burned with the preparation, all that remains is to cut off the dead buds.

Question number 2. Can black spot on leaves go to rosebuds?

Various types of spots are fungal diseases that affect leaf plates and green shoots of a rose. These fungi, as a rule, do not live on the petals. However, blotches greatly weaken plants, inhibit all their functions, including reproductive ones. The bud formation process slows down or stops altogether. Already formed buds turn out to be weak, they can dry and fall off without opening.

Question number 3. Can the buds turn black from the sun?

Can not. Sometimes the damage to the buds is caused by the action of the sun, but it looks a little different. From sunburn, the petals do not turn black, but dry up, become like parchment, and then turn brown.