Disclaimer:
I must say right away that I am not an expert and I understand little about boilers. Therefore, everything that is written below can and should be treated with skepticism. Do not kick me, but I will be glad to hear alternative points of view. I was looking for information for myself on how to optimally use a gas boiler so that it lasts as long as possible and releases as little heat as possible into the pipe.

It all started with the fact that I did not know what temperature of the coolant to choose. There is a selection wheel, but there is no information on this topic. not in the instructions anywhere. It was really hard to find her. I made some notes for myself. I can't vouch that they are correct, but they might be useful to someone. This topic is not for the sake of a holivar, I do not urge you to buy this or that model, but I want to figure out how it works and what depends on what.

Essence:
1) The efficiency of any boiler is higher than colder water in the internal radiator. A cold radiator takes all the heat from the burner into itself, releasing air at a minimum temperature into the street.

2) The only loss in efficiency that I see is only exhaust gases. Everything else remains within the walls of the house (we are only considering the case when the boiler is in a room that needs heating. I no longer see why the efficiency can decrease.

3) Important. Do not confuse the efficiency plug that is written in the specifications (for example, from 88% to 90%) with what I am writing about. This fork does not refer to the temperature of the coolant, but only to the power of the boiler.

What does it mean? Many boilers can operate with high efficiency even at 40-50% of the nominal power. For example, my boiler can work on 11 kW and 28 kW (this is regulated by the pressure in the gas burner). The manufacturer says that the efficiency at 11 kW will be 88%, and at 28 kW - 90%.

But what water temperature should be in the boiler radiator, the manufacturer does not indicate (or I did not find it). It is quite possible that when the radiator is heated to 88 degrees, the efficiency drops by 20 percent. I don't know. It is necessary to measure heat losses with outgoing gases. but I'm too lazy for that.

4) Why not set all boilers to the minimum temperature of the heat carrier? Because when the radiator is cold (and 30-50 degrees, it is already very cold, relative to the burner flame) - condensate forms on it from water and compounds that are mixed in the gas. It's like cold glass in a bathroom where water collects. Just not there pure water, and even any chemistry from gas. This condensate is very harmful to most of the materials from which the radiator inside the boiler is made (cast iron, copper).

5) Condensation in large quantities falls when the radiator temperature is colder than 58 degrees. This is a fairly constant value because the combustion temperature of the gas is approximately constant. And the amount of impurities and water in the gas is standardized by GOSTs.

Therefore, there is a rule that in ordinary boilers the return flow should be 60 degrees and above. Otherwise, the radiator will quickly fail. The boilers even have a special feature - when the burner is turned on, they turn off circulation pump to quickly heat your radiator to the desired temperature, reducing condensation on it.

4) Yes condensing boilers- their trick is that they are not afraid of condensate, on the contrary, they try to cool the combustion products to the maximum, which contributes to increased condensate precipitation (there is no miracle in such boilers, condensate in this case just a by-product of cooling the exhaust gases). Thus, they do not release excess heat into the pipe, using all the heat to the maximum. But even when using such boilers, if you need to heat the coolant a lot (if there are few batteries / warm floors in the house and you don’t have enough heat) - the hot radiator (at least 60 degrees) of this boiler can no longer take all the heat out of the air. And its efficiency drops to almost usual values. And almost no condensate is formed, flying out into the pipe along with kilowatts of heat.

5) Low temperature coolant (a characteristic that is given as a load to condensing boilers) is good for everyone - it does not destroy plastic pipes, it can be directly put into a warm floor, hot radiators do not raise dust, do not create wind in the room (air movement from hot batteries reduces comfort), it is impossible to burn yourself with them, they do not contribute to the decomposition of paints and varnishes near radiators (less harmful substances). By the way, more than 85 degrees of the battery is generally forbidden to heat according to sanitary measures, precisely because of the reasons voiced above.

But the low temperature of the coolant has one minus. The efficiency of radiators (batteries in the house) is highly dependent on temperature. The lower the coolant temperature, the lower the efficiency of the radiators. But this does not mean that you will pay more for gas (this efficiency has nothing to do with gas). But this means that you will need to buy and install more radiators / underfloor heating so that they can give the same amount of heat to the house at a lower operating temperature.

If at 80 degrees you need one radiator in the room, then at 30 degrees you need three of them (I took these numbers out of my head).

6) In addition to condensing, there are boilers "low temperature". I have just one. They seem to be able to live at a water temperature of 40 degrees. Condensation also forms there, but it seems to be not as strong as in conventional boilers. There are some engineering solutions that reduce its intensity (double walls of the radiator inside the boiler or some other parsley, there is very little information about this). Perhaps this is stupid marketing and works only in words? I dont know.

For myself, I decided to set at least 50-55 degrees so that the return line was at least about 40(offhand, I don't have a thermometer). For me, this is a salvation, because my underfloor heating was installed incorrectly (the house already had all the wiring when I bought it), and it would be completely wrong to heat them with water at 70 degrees. I would have to rebuild the collector, add another pump ... And 50-60 degrees for me is generally normal in warm floors, I have a thick screed, the floor is not hot. Whether this is bad or not bad, I don’t know, but it already exists and nothing can be done about it. Although, I suspect that the efficiency still suffers a little from this, and the screed does not become stronger from wild drops. But what to do.

The question, of course, is how all this will affect the efficiency and radiator of the boiler. But I have no information on this topic.

7) For conventional boiler, apparently, it is optimal to heat the water to 80-85 degrees. Apparently, if 80 is the supply, then the return will be about 60 on average in the hospital. Someone even says that this way the efficiency is higher, but I do not see any reasonable reason why the efficiency can increase with the temperature of the coolant. It seems to me that the efficiency of the boiler should fall with an increase in the temperature of the coolant (remember the gases that leave the house into the pipe).

8) I already wrote why hot coolant is not welcome. And once again I will emphasize one opinion that I saw on the Internet. They say that for plastic pipes the maximum reasonable temperature is 75 degrees. I am sure that the pipes will withstand 100 degrees, but high temperatures seem to lead to increased wear. I have no idea what is "wearing out" there, maybe it's a fake. But I'm still not a supporter of running boiling water through pipes. All reasons are listed above.

9) From all this follows the opinion (not mine) that weather-dependent automation is almost never needed, because it regulates the temperature of the coolant is not optimal for the long-term use of the boiler (or killing its efficiency). That is, if the boiler is condensing, then it is better to heat up to one temperature, and increase it only if it is very cold in the house. It depends primarily on the house, insulation and the number of radiators (and last but not least on the temperature outside). And it’s still better to heat an ordinary boiler to 70 degrees, otherwise it’s a khan. Accordingly, low-temperature somewhere in the region of 50-55 on average. Manual control steers? Twice during the winter, you can manually increase the temperature if you feel that the radiators are no longer giving enough heat to the house.

In general, it is a pity that there is no plate from the manufacturer with the ideal calculated coolant for each boiler. In order to sharpen all CO under this temperature.

Once again - I’m finally a teapot and I don’t pretend to be anything, I understood the topic for only a few hours. But I know for sure that there is very little information on this topic and I will be glad if this thread serves as a starting point for discussion, even if I'm wrong on all counts.

2.KIT of the boiler at different temperatures of the incoming

The lower the temperature enters the boiler, the greater the temperature difference by different sides baffles of the boiler heat exchanger, and the more efficiently the heat passes from the exhaust gases (combustion products) to through the wall of the heat exchanger. I will give an example with two identical kettles placed on the same burners. gas stove. One burner is set to high flame and the other to medium. The kettle with the highest flame will boil faster. And why? Because the temperature difference between the combustion products under these kettles and the water temperature for these kettles will be different. Accordingly, the rate of heat transfer at a larger temperature difference will be greater.

With regard to the heating boiler, we cannot increase the combustion temperature, as this will lead to the fact that most of our heat (gas combustion products) will fly out through the exhaust pipe into the atmosphere. But we can design our heating system (hereinafter CO) in such a way as to lower the temperature entering into , and therefore, lower the average temperature circulating through . The average temperature at the return (inlet) to and supply (outlet) from the boiler will be called the temperature of "boiler water".

As a rule, the 75/60 ​​mode is considered the most economical thermal mode of operation of a non-condensing boiler. Those. with a temperature at the supply (outlet from the boiler) +75 degrees, and at the return (inlet to the boiler) +60 degrees Celsius. A reference to this thermal regime is in the boiler passport, when indicating its efficiency (usually indicate the mode 80/60). Those. in a different thermal regime, the efficiency of the boiler will be lower than stated in the passport.

That's why modern system heating must operate in the design (for example, 75/60) thermal mode for the entire heating period, regardless of the outside temperature, except when using an outside temperature sensor (see below). The regulation of heat transfer heating appliances(radiators) during the heating season should be carried out not by changing the temperature, but by changing the amount of flow through the heating devices (the use of thermostatic valves and thermoelements, i.e. "thermal heads").

In order to avoid the formation of acid condensate on the boiler heat exchanger, for a non-condensing boiler, the temperature in its return (inlet) should not be lower than +58 degrees Celsius (usually taken with a margin of +60 degrees).

I will make a reservation that the ratio of air and gas entering the combustion chamber is also of great importance for the formation of acid condensate. The more excess air entering the combustion chamber, the less acidic condensate. But you should not rejoice at this, since excess air leads to a large overspending of gas fuel, which ultimately "beats us in the pocket."

For example, I will give a photo showing how acid condensate destroys the boiler heat exchanger. The photo shows the heat exchanger of the Vaillant wall-mounted boiler, which worked for only one season in an incorrectly designed heating system. Quite strong corrosion is visible on the return (inlet) side of the boiler.

For condensation, acid condensate is not terrible. Since the heat exchanger of the condensing boiler is made of special high-quality alloyed stainless steel, which is “not afraid” of acid condensate. Also, the design of the condensing boiler is designed so that acidic condensate flows through a tube into a special container for collecting condensate, but does not fall on any electronic components and components of the boiler, where it could damage these components.

Some condensing boilers are able to change the temperature on their return (inlet) by themselves due to the smooth change in the power of the circulation pump by the boiler processor. Thereby increasing the efficiency of gas combustion.

For additional gas savings, use the connection of the outdoor temperature sensor to the boiler. Most wall-mounted ones have the ability to automatically change the temperature depending on the outside temperature. This is done so that at outdoor temperatures that are warmer than the temperature of the cold five-day period (the most severe frosts), the temperature of the boiler water is automatically lowered. As mentioned above, this reduces gas consumption. But when using a non-condensing boiler, it is important not to forget that when the temperature of the boiler water changes, the temperature at the return (inlet) of the boiler should not fall below +58 degrees, otherwise acid condensate will form on the boiler heat exchanger and destroy. To do this, when commissioning the boiler, in the boiler programming mode, such a curve of temperature dependence on the outside temperature is selected, at which the temperature in the boiler return would not lead to the formation of acid condensate.

I want to warn you right away that when using a non-condensing boiler and plastic pipes in the heating system, installing a street temperature sensor is almost pointless. Since we can design for the long-term service of plastic pipes, the temperature at the boiler supply is not higher than +70 degrees (+74 during the cold five-day period), and in order to avoid the formation of acid condensate, design the temperature at the boiler return is not lower than +60 degrees. These narrow "frames" make the use of weather-dependent automation useless. Since such frames require temperatures in the range of +70/+60. Already when using copper or steel pipes in the heating system, it already makes sense to use weather-compensated automation in heating systems, even when using a non-condensing boiler. Since it is possible to design the thermal mode of the boiler 85/65, which mode can be changed under the control of weather-dependent automation, for example, up to 74/58 and save on gas consumption.

I will give an example of an algorithm for changing the temperature at the boiler supply depending on the outside temperature using the Baxi Luna 3 Komfort boiler as an example (below). Also, some boilers, for example, Vaillant, can maintain the set temperature not on their supply, but on their return. And if you set the return temperature maintenance mode to +60, then you can not be afraid of the appearance of acid condensate. If at the same time the temperature at the boiler supply changes up to +85 degrees inclusive, but if you use copper or steel pipes, then such a temperature in the pipes does not reduce their service life.

From the graph, we see that, for example, when choosing a curve with a coefficient of 1.5, it will automatically change the temperature at its supply from +80 at a street temperature of -20 degrees and below, to a supply temperature of +30 at a street temperature of +10 (in the middle section flow temperature curve +.

But how much the supply temperature of +80 will reduce the service life of plastic pipes (Reference: according to manufacturers, the warranty service life plastic pipe at a temperature of +80, it is only 7 months, so do not hope for 50 years), or a return temperature below +58 will reduce the life of the boiler, unfortunately, there is no exact data announced by the manufacturers.

And it turns out that when using weather-dependent automation with non-condensing gas, you can save something, but it is impossible to predict how much the service life of the pipes and the boiler will decrease. Those. in the above case, the use of weather-compensated automation will be at your own peril and risk.

Thus, it makes the most sense to use weather-compensated automation when using a condensing boiler and copper (or steel) pipes in the heating system. Since weather-dependent automation will be able to automatically (and without harm to the boiler) change the thermal regime of the boiler from, for example, 75/60 ​​for a cold five-day period (for example, -30 degrees outside) to the 50/30 mode (for example, +10 degrees outside) street). Those. you can painlessly choose the dependence curve, for example, with a coefficient of 1.5 without fear of a high boiler supply temperature in frost, at the same time without fear of the appearance of acid condensate during thaws (for condensation, the formula is valid that the more acid condensate is formed in them, the more they save gas). For interest, I will lay out a graph of the dependence of the KIT of a condensing boiler, depending on the temperature in the return of the boiler.

3.KIT of the boiler depending on the ratio of the mass of gas to the mass of air for combustion.

The more completely the gas fuel burns in the combustion chamber of the boiler, the more heat we can get from burning a kilogram of gas. The completeness of gas combustion depends on the ratio of the mass of gas to the mass of combustion air entering the combustion chamber. This can be compared to the tuning of a carburetor in a car's internal combustion engine. The better the carburetor is tuned, the less for the same engine power.

To adjust the ratio of the mass of gas to the mass of air in modern boilers, a special device is used that doses the amount of gas supplied to the combustion chamber of the boiler. It is called a gas fitting or an electronic power modulator. The main purpose of this device is automatic modulation of the boiler power. Also, the adjustment of the optimal ratio of gas to air is carried out on it, but already manually, once during commissioning of the boiler.

To do this, when commissioning the boiler, you must manually adjust the gas pressure using a differential pressure gauge on special control fittings of the gas modulator. Two pressure levels are adjustable. For maximum power mode, and for minimum power mode. The methodology and instructions for setting up are usually set out in the boiler's passport. You can not buy a differential pressure gauge, but make it from a school ruler and a transparent tube from a hydraulic level or a blood transfusion system. The gas pressure in the gas line is very low (15-25 mbar), less than when a person exhales, therefore, in the absence of a nearby open fire it is safe to make this adjustment. Unfortunately, not all service workers, when commissioning the boiler, perform the procedure for adjusting the gas pressure on the modulator (out of laziness). But if you need to get the most economical operation of your heating system in terms of gas consumption, then you must definitely perform such a procedure.

Also, when commissioning the boiler, it is necessary, according to the method and table (provided in the boiler passport), to adjust the diaphragm cross section in the boiler air pipes depending on the boiler power and the configuration (and length) of the exhaust pipes and combustion air intake. The correctness of the ratio of the volume of air supplied to the combustion chamber to the volume of supplied gas also depends on the correct choice of this section of the diaphragm. Correct this ratio ensures the most complete combustion of gas in the combustion chamber of the boiler. And, therefore, it reduces to necessary minimum gas consumption. I will give (for an example of a technique correct installation aperture) scan from the passport of the boiler Baxi Nuvola 3 Comfort -

P.S. Some of the condensers, in addition to controlling the amount of gas supplied to the combustion chamber, also control the amount of air for combustion. To do this, they use a turbocharger (turbine) whose power (revs) is controlled by the boiler processor. This skill of the boiler gives us an additional opportunity to save gas consumption in addition to all the above measures and methods.

4. KIT of the boiler, depending on the temperature of the air entering it for combustion.

Also, the economy of gas consumption depends on the temperature of the air entering the combustion chamber of the boiler. The efficiency of the boiler given in the passport is valid for the temperature of the air entering the combustion chamber of the boiler +20 degrees Celsius. This is due to the fact that when colder air enters the combustion chamber, part of the heat is spent on heating this air.

Boilers are "atmospheric", which take air for combustion from the surrounding space (from the room in which they are installed) and "turbo boilers" with a closed combustion chamber, into which air is forcibly supplied by a turbocharger located in. Ceteris paribus, a "turbo boiler" will have greater gas consumption efficiency than an "atmospheric" one.

If everything is clear with the “atmospheric” one, then with the “turbo boiler” questions arise from where it is better to take air into the combustion chamber. The “Turboboiler” is designed so that the air flow into its combustion chamber can be arranged from the room in which it is installed, or directly from the street (using a coaxial chimney, i.e. a “pipe in pipe” chimney). Unfortunately, both of these methods have their pros and cons. When air enters from interior spaces at home, the temperature of the air for combustion is higher than when taken from the street, but all the dust generated in the house is pumped through the combustion chamber of the boiler, clogging it. The combustion chamber of the boiler is especially clogged with dust and dirt during finishing works in the house.

Don't forget that for safe work"atmospheric" or "turbo boiler" with air intake from the premises of the house, it is necessary to organize the correct operation of the supply part of the ventilation. For example, supply valves on the windows of the house must be installed and opened.

Also, when removing the products of combustion of the boiler up through the roof, it is worth considering the cost of manufacturing an insulated chimney with a steam trap.

Therefore, the most popular (including for financial reasons) are the coaxial chimney systems “through the wall to the street”. Where exhaust gases are emitted through the inner pipe, and outer pipe air for combustion is pumped in from the street. In this case, the exhaust gases heat up the air sucked in for combustion, since coaxial pipe while acting as a heat exchanger.

5.KIT of the boiler depending on the time of continuous operation of the boiler (lack of “clocking” of the boiler).

Modern boilers themselves adjust their generated thermal power to the thermal power consumed by the heating system. But the limits of auto-tuning power are limited. Most non-condensing units can modulate their power from about 45% to 100% of rated power. Condensing modulate power in a ratio of 1 to 7 and even 1 to 9. Ie. non-condensing boiler with a rated output of 24 kW, will be able to continuous work give out at least, for example, 10.5 kW. And condensing, for example, 3.5 kW.

If at the same time the temperature outside is much warmer than in a cold five-day period, then there may be a situation where the heat loss of the house is less than the minimum possible generated power. For example, the heat loss of a house is 5 kW, and the minimum modulated power is 10 kW. This will lead to periodic shutdown of the boiler when the set temperature at its supply (output) is exceeded. It may happen that the boiler will turn on and off every 5 minutes. Frequent switching on / off of the boiler is called “clocking” of the boiler. Clocking, in addition to reducing the life of the boiler, also significantly increases gas consumption. I will compare the gas consumption in the clocking mode with the gasoline consumption of the car. Consider that the gas consumption during clocking is driving in city traffic jams in terms of fuel consumption. And the continuous operation of the boiler is driving along a free highway in terms of fuel consumption.

The fact is that the boiler processor contains a program that allows the boiler, using the sensors built into it, to indirectly measure the thermal power consumed by the heating system. And adjust the generated power to this need. But this boiler takes from 15 to 40 minutes, depending on the capacity of the system. And in the process of adjusting its power, it does not work in the optimal mode in terms of gas consumption. Immediately after switching on, the boiler modulates the maximum power and only over time, gradually, by approximation, reaches the optimal gas flow. It turns out that when the boiler cycles more than 30-40 minutes, it does not have enough time to reach the optimal mode and gas flow. Indeed, with the beginning of a new cycle, the boiler begins the selection of power and mode again.

To eliminate the clocking of the boiler, a room thermostat is installed. It is better to install it on the first floor in the middle of the house and if there is a heater in the room where it is installed, then the IR radiation of this heater should reach the room thermostat at a minimum. Also on this heater, a thermoelement (thermal head) on a thermostatic valve should not be installed.

Many boilers are already equipped with a remote control panel. Inside this control panel is the room thermostat. Moreover, it is electronic and programmable according to the time zones of the day and the days of the week. Programming the temperature in the house by time of day, by day of the week, and when you leave for a few days, also allows you to save a lot on gas consumption. Instead of a removable control panel, a decorative cap is installed on the boiler. For example, I will give a photo of the Baxi Luna 3 Komfort removable control panel installed in the hall of the first floor of the house, and a photo of the same boiler installed in the boiler room attached to the house with a decorative plug installed instead of the control panel.

6. Use of a greater share of radiant heat in heating devices.

You can also save any fuel, not just gas, by using heaters with a greater proportion of radiant heat.

This is explained by the fact that a person does not have the ability to feel exactly the temperature. environment. A person can only feel the balance between the amount of heat received and given off, but not the temperature. Example. If we take an aluminum blank with a temperature of +30 degrees, it will seem cold to us. If we pick up a piece of foam plastic with a temperature of -20 degrees, then it will seem warm to us.

With regard to the environment in which a person is, in the absence of drafts, a person does not feel the temperature of the surrounding air. But only the temperature of the surrounding surfaces. Walls, floors, ceilings, furniture. I will give examples.

Example 1. When you go down to the cellar, after a few seconds you become chilly. But this is not because the air temperature in the cellar, for example, is +5 degrees (after all, air in a stationary state is the best heat insulator, and you could not freeze from heat exchange with air). And from the fact that the balance of the interchange of radiant heat with the surrounding surfaces has changed (your body has an average surface temperature of +36 degrees, and the cellar has an average surface temperature of +5 degrees). You begin to give off much more radiant heat than you receive. That's why you get cold.

Example 2. When you are in a foundry or steel shop (or just near a large fire), you get hot. But this is not because the air temperature is high. In winter, with partially broken windows in foundry The air temperature in the workshop can be -10 degrees. But you are still very hot. Why? Of course, the air temperature has nothing to do with it. The high temperature of the surfaces, not the air, changes the balance of radiant heat transfer between your body and the environment. You begin to receive much more heat than you radiate. Therefore, people working in foundries and steel-smelting shops are forced to put on cotton trousers, padded jackets and hats with earflaps. To protect not from the cold, but from too much radiant heat. To avoid heatstroke.

From this we draw a conclusion that many modern heating specialists do not realize. That it is necessary to heat the surfaces surrounding a person, but not the air. When we heat only the air, first the air rises to the ceiling, and only then, descending, the air heats the walls and the floor due to the convective circulation of air in the room. Those. first warm air rises to the ceiling, heating it, then descends to the floor along the far side of the room (and only then does the floor surface begin to heat up) and then in a circle. With this purely convective method of space heating, there is an uncomfortable temperature distribution throughout the room. When is the most heat indoors at head level, medium at waist level, and lowest at leg level. But you probably remember the proverb: "Keep your head cold and your feet warm!".

It is no coincidence that SNIP states that in comfortable home, the temperature of the surfaces of the outer walls and floor should not be lower than average temperature indoors by more than 4 degrees. Otherwise, there is an effect that is both hot and stuffy, but at the same time chilly (including on the legs). It turns out that in such a house you need to live "in shorts and felt boots."

So, from afar, I was forced to lead you to the realization of which heating devices are best used in the house, not only for comfort, but also for fuel economy. Of course, heaters, as you may have guessed, must be used with the greatest proportion of radiant heat. Let's see which heating appliances give us the largest share of radiant heat.

Perhaps, such heating devices include the so-called "warm floors", as well as " warm walls(which are gaining more and more popularity). But even among the usually most common heating devices, steel panel radiators, tubular radiators and cast iron radiators can be distinguished by the largest share of radiant heat. I have to assume that steel panel radiators provide the largest share of radiant heat, since manufacturers of such radiators indicate the share of radiant heat, while manufacturers of tubular and cast-iron radiators keep this secret. I also want to say that aluminum and bimetallic "radiators" that have recently received aluminum and bimetallic "radiators" do not have the right to be called radiators at all. They are called so only because they are the same sectional as cast-iron radiators. That is, they are called "radiators" simply "by inertia." But according to the principle of their action, aluminum and bimetallic radiators should be classified as convectors, not radiators. Since the share of radiant heat they have is less than 4-5%.

At the panel steel radiators the proportion of radiant heat varies from 50% to 15% depending on the type. The largest share of radiant heat is in type 10 panel radiators, in which the share of radiant heat is 50%. Type 11 has 30% radiant heat. Type 22 has 20% radiant heat. Type 33 has 15% radiant heat. There are also steel panel radiators produced using the so-called X2 technology, for example, from Kermi. It represents type 22 radiators, in which it passes first along the front plane of the radiator, and only then along the rear plane. Due to this, the temperature of the front plane of the radiator increases relative to the rear plane, and, consequently, the share of radiant heat, since only IR radiation from the front plane enters the room.

The respected firm Kermi claims that when using radiators made using X2 technology, fuel consumption is reduced by at least 6%. Of course, he personally did not have the opportunity to confirm or refute these figures in laboratory conditions, but based on the laws of thermal physics, the use of such technology really saves fuel.

Conclusions. I advise you to use steel panel radiators in the entire width of the window opening in a private house or cottage, in descending order of preference by type: 10, 11, 21, 22, 33. When the amount of heat loss in the room, as well as the width of the window opening and the height of the window sill do not allow using types 10 and 11 (not enough power) and the use of types 21 and 22 is required, then if there is a financial opportunity, I will advise you to use not the usual types 21 and 22, but using the X2 technology. Unless, of course, the use of X2 technology pays off in your case.

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After installing the heating system, it is necessary to adjust temperature regime. This procedure must be carried out in accordance with existing standards.

The requirements for the temperature of the coolant are set out in normative documents that establish the design, installation and use engineering systems residential and public buildings. They are described in the State building codes and regulations:

• DBN (B. 2.5-39 Heat networks);
• SNiP 2.04.05 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning".

For the calculated temperature of the water in the supply, the figure is taken that is equal to the temperature of the water at the outlet of the boiler, according to its passport data.

For individual heating to decide what should be the temperature of the coolant, should be taking into account such factors:

1. Beginning and end heating season on average daily temperature outside +8 °C for 3 days;
2. The average temperature inside the heated premises of housing and communal and public interest should be 20 °C, and for industrial buildings 16 °C;
3. Medium design temperature must comply with the requirements of DBN V.2.2-10, DBN V.2.2.-4, DSanPiN 5.5.2.008, SP No. 3231-85.

According to SNiP 2.04.05 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning" (clause 3.20), the coolant limit values ​​are as follows:

Depending on external factors, the water temperature in the heating system can be from 30 to 90 °C. When heated above 90 ° C, dust begins to decompose and paintwork. For these reasons sanitary norms prohibit more heating.

For calculation optimal performance special charts and tables can be used that define the norms depending on the season:

• With an average value outside the window of 0 °С, the supply for radiators with different wiring is set at a level of 40 to 45 °С, and the return temperature is from 35 to 38 °С;
• At -20 °С, the supply is heated from 67 to 77 °С, while the return rate should be from 53 to 55 °С;
• At -40 ° C outside the window for all heating devices set the maximum allowable values. At the supply it is from 95 to 105 ° C, and at the return - 70 ° C.

Optimal values ​​in an individual heating system

H2_2

Autonomous heating helps to avoid many problems that arise with a centralized network, and the optimal temperature of the coolant can be adjusted according to the season. In the case of individual heating, the concept of norm includes the heat transfer of a heating device per unit area of ​​​​the room where this device is located. The thermal regime in this situation is provided design features heating appliances.

It is important to ensure that the heat carrier in the network does not cool below 70 °C. 80 °C is considered optimal. It is easier to control heating with a gas boiler, because manufacturers limit the possibility of heating the coolant to 90 ° C. Using sensors to adjust the gas supply, the heating of the coolant can be controlled.

It is a little more difficult with solid fuel devices, they do not regulate the heating of the liquid, and can easily turn it into steam. And it is impossible to reduce the heat from coal or wood by turning the knob in such a situation. At the same time, the control of heating of the coolant is rather conditional with high errors and is performed by rotary thermostats and mechanical dampers.

Electric boilers allow you to smoothly adjust the heating of the coolant from 30 to 90 ° C. They are equipped excellent system overheating protection.

One-pipe and two-pipe lines

The design features of a single-pipe and two-pipe heating network determine different norms for heating the coolant.

For example, for a single-pipe line, the maximum rate is 105 ° C, and for a two-pipe line - 95 ° C, while the difference between the return and supply should be, respectively: 105 - 70 ° C and 95 - 70 ° C.

Matching the temperature of the heat carrier and the boiler

Regulators help to coordinate the temperature of the coolant and the boiler. These are devices that create automatic control and correction of the return and supply temperatures.

The return temperature depends on the amount of liquid passing through it. The regulators cover the liquid supply and increase the difference between the return and supply to the level that is needed, and the necessary pointers are installed on the sensor.

If it is necessary to increase the flow, then a boost pump can be added to the network, which is controlled by a regulator. To reduce the heating of the supply, a “cold start” is used: that part of the liquid that has passed through the network is again transferred from the return to the inlet.

The regulator redistributes the supply and return flows according to the data taken by the sensor, and ensures strict temperature standards for the heating network.

Ways to reduce heat loss

The above information will help to be used for the correct calculation of the coolant temperature norm and will tell you how to determine the situations when you need to use the regulator.

But it is important to remember that the temperature in the room is affected not only by the temperature of the coolant, outdoor air and wind strength. The degree of insulation of the facade, doors and windows in the house should also be taken into account.

To reduce the heat loss of housing, you need to worry about its maximum thermal insulation. Insulated walls, sealed doors, metal-plastic windows will help reduce heat leakage. It will also reduce heating costs.

Service gas boiler with low performance is expensive. Therefore, anyone who uses such a device wants to find optimal operation of the gas boiler, at which it will have the highest possible efficiency (efficiency) at minimal cost fuel. This problem becomes especially urgent on the eve of the next heating season.

The performance of a gas boiler is influenced by various factors. If you have not yet bought this device, but only plan to purchase it, please note that the main condition for its installation is the presence of a centralized gas supply. Some believe that they can get by with bottled gas, but this will significantly increase costs. In this case, it is better to install electric heating.

Optimum performance depends on the following criteria:

1. Boiler designs - they can be single-circuit, double-circuit, mounted, floor, etc.
2. Efficiency - nominal and real.
3. Proper organization of heating in the house: the power of the boiler must correspond to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated premises.
4. The technical condition of the equipment.
5. Gas quality.

Now let's take a closer look at how each of the criteria can be optimized to maximize device performance.

Boiler design

Boilers are single-circuit and double-circuit. The first one will have to buy an indirect heating boiler so that it can heat water. The double-circuit version is preferable, as it is equipped with everything necessary for production hot water and home heating. For ease of use, the priority mode in such a boiler is the supply of hot water. This means that when the water supply is turned on, the heating stops.

There are wall and floor gas boilers. The former have less power and can only heat a room up to 300 m². If your house is larger, you will need to purchase another wall-hung or floor-standing boiler.

Nominal and real efficiency

The instructions for any gas boiler indicate the nominal efficiency, usually it is 92-95%, for condensing models - about 108%. However, the real figure is usually 9-10% lower. Further reduces its presence various kinds heat loss:

1. Physical underburning - this indicator depends on the volume of excess air in the unit during the gas combustion process. It is also affected by the temperature of the flue gases: the higher it is, the lower the efficiency of the boiler.

1. Chemical underburning - this indicator varies depending on the volume of oxide carbon monoxide that comes from the combustion of carbon.
2. Heat loss that escapes through the walls of the boiler.

You can increase the actual efficiency of the device in the following ways:

1. Reducing the physical underburning rate by regularly cleaning soot on the pipeline and removing scale from the water circuit.
2. Reducing the amount of excess air by installing a draft limiter on the chimney.
3. By adjusting the position of the blower damper in such a way that the maximum temperature of the coolant is reached.
4. Regular cleaning of soot on the combustion chamber, which increases gas consumption.

To increase the efficiency of a gas boiler will allow replacing the chimney with a more innovative one. Most of the traditional branch pipes are too dependent on weather conditions. Came to replace them coaxial chimney, which is resistant to temperature extremes and is able to increase efficiency, as well as save fuel.

Note! Some owners of gas boilers make a mistake - they pour out the coolant and pour tap water. This is not worth doing, as new plumbing water, when heated, leaves scale on the walls of the pipeline.

How to properly organize home heating with a gas boiler?

Power Compliance heating boiler heated area of ​​the room is a key factor in the quality of heating. This factor also affects the duration of uninterrupted operation of the unit.

To accurately calculate required power boiler for the house, you should take into account the features of the structure, possible heat losses through walls and ceilings. It is quite difficult to make these calculations on your own, so it is better to hire a specialist who can correctly determine the optimal boiler power.

Usually for heating a house built in accordance with all building codes, 100 W of power per 1 m² is enough. Based on this rule, we get the following table.

When buying gas boilers, it is better to give preference to modern foreign-made models, since their quality is higher compared to domestic ones. Also, more "advanced" units have additional setting functions, with which you can select the optimal mode of operation of the gas boiler.

Note! When choosing a gas boiler, it should be noted that its optimal power should be 70-75% of the maximum.

Below is a video showing how to install optimal wall boiler mode.

Technical condition of the boiler

Its efficiency directly depends on the technical condition of the gas boiler. In order for it to last as long as possible and work optimally, regular maintenance is necessary. It is important to clean the internal elements from soot and scale in a timely manner.

A frequent problem of a gas boiler, in which its performance decreases, is clocking. This means that the unit turns on too often due to excessive heating of the coolant. This usually occurs due to too much power of the device. Clocking leads to excessive consumption of gas and rapid wear of equipment. This problem is solved very simply - you should set the gas supply level to the minimum. You can do this by following the attached instructions.

Gas quality

The quality of the gas is the only factor that we cannot influence. An increased volume of moisture leads to an increase in gas consumption.

How to set the optimal mode?

There is such a thing as the optimal mode of a gas boiler. As mentioned above, the unit consumes fuel economically if it operates at 75% of maximum power. Most boilers are set to the temperature of the coolant. When it reaches the required value, the boiler turns off for a while. The user can determine which optimal operating temperature of the gas boiler it will suit you and install it. The value may change depending on weather conditions, for example, in winter the temperature of the coolant should be 70-80°C, and in spring or autumn it can be reduced to 55-70°C.

Modern models of gas boilers are equipped with temperature sensors, thermostats and an automatic mode setting system. If your boiler does not have such equipment, it can be purchased at a specialized store and installed on almost any model. Using the thermostat, you can set the desired temperature in the room, which the gas boiler must maintain. Depending on it, the coolant will heat up and cool down at a certain frequency. This mode of operation provides for the automatic reaction of the boiler to temperature changes in the street or in the house. In addition, at night it is advisable to reduce the heat in the room by 1-2 ° C. Thus, automation will minimize gas consumption, and at the same time maintain the temperature in the room at the desired level. Note! Installing sensors and a thermostat will save up to 20% of gas.

Some modern models boilers can change the mode of operation depending on the presence of people in the room. This makes it possible to support optimal temperature long absence of hosts. But still, it is not worth leaving the boiler in working condition for a long time unattended. Otherwise, in the event of an emergency power outage, the unit may fail.

If you find it difficult to independently reconfigure or adjust the operation of your gas boiler, contact the specialists.

The most economical boilers

Statistics and specifications indicate that gas boilers of foreign manufacturers have the highest efficiency. Manufacturers Baxi, Protherm, Buderus, Bosch have proven themselves well on the market.

If you have not yet made your choice, pay attention to condensing boilers - its efficiency is 10-11% higher than that of traditional ones, they are the most economical and powerful, but they are also not cheap. But low fuel consumption and long service life will pay off the money spent on it. Its principle of operation is different in that the combustion products of the fuel do not leave in the form of gas, but pass through a heat exchanger made of stainless steel, heat water, cool down and fall out in the form of liquid condensate.

To achieve optimal performance gas boiler, it should be maintained in good condition, regularly cleaned of soot and scale, and also equipped with an automatic room temperature control system. If you follow these recommendations, your unit will enjoy uninterrupted operation, low gas consumption and a cozy atmosphere in the house.

Gas equipment is ubiquitous in apartments and country houses. You independently regulate the equipment, setting a comfortable temperature in the room. So you are not dependent on utilities, you can save fuel as you see fit. But in order for the operation to be really economical, it is important correct setting gas boiler.

Why do you need correct adjustment techniques:

• To save resources.
• To make it comfortable to be in the room, use hot water.
• To extend the life of the equipment.

Need to start with right choice boiler, its power. Consider the features of the room: the number and area of ​​​​windows, doors, the quality of insulation, wall materials. The minimum calculation is based on heat losses per unit of time. You will learn more about this in the article "".

gas boilers divided into single and double. The latter perform heating to the heating circuit and hot water supply (DHW). Single-circuit units provide only heating. Therefore, to obtain hot water, indirect heating boilers are installed.

According to the type of placement, the equipment is floor and wall. Placed on the floor, the units have more power. Therefore, they are used for large areas(from 300 m²). Installation is carried out only in separate rooms (boiler rooms). These are models Baxi (""), Buderus (""), "", "".

Mounted appliances (“Lux”, “”, “”, ) fit perfectly into small apartments in the kitchen. Therefore, it is important to take into account all the nuances of the location. From correct selection parameters depends on the comfort of the residents, as well as the durability of the boiler.

Power setting

Heating power depends on modulation gas burner. If you have selected a device with electronic control, then it turns on the thermostat, which is connected to the room thermometer. Adjustment occurs automatically: the thermometer measures the temperature in the room. As soon as it falls below comfortable, he gives a command to start the burner or increase the strength of the flame.

In normal mode, the thermometer controls the temperature in only one room. But if you install valves in front of each radiator, control will be in all rooms.

It is possible to adjust the burner manually by acting on the gas valve. This is true for atmospheric boilers with an open combustion chamber. So, in the Protherm "Gepard", "Proterm Bear" models, the valve is controlled by an electric motor. To change the settings, you need to go to the service menu. Most often, this is done by a specialist, and the user performs the actions indicated in the instructions.

But still, we will tell you how to call the hidden menu for adjustment.

Before entering the menu and setting up, do this:

• Open the taps on the batteries.
• On the room thermostat set the maximum values.
• In the user settings, set the maximum temperature that you use in severe frosts. The burner always turns off when the reading reaches 5°C above the set value. For example, at +75 degrees, a shutdown will occur when it reaches 80 degrees.
• Cool the coolant to 30°C.

For Protherm Gepard:

• Hold down the Mode key on the panel. As soon as "0" appears on the display, set the value to 35 by pressing "+" and "-".
• Press Mode to confirm.
• As soon as d. 0, enter the line number in the menu. Do this with "+" and "-" d.(number). To set the maximum burner power, choose d.53, the minimum - d.52.
• Use Mode to navigate to parameter selection. Change it "+" "-".
• The installation receives an automatic confirmation.
• Return to the original menu - hold Mode.

During regulation, use the panel to monitor the change in flame and temperature rise.

For "Proterm Panther" actions are different:

• Press Mode for about 7 seconds.
• Using keys 2 (look at the picture above), enter code 35.
• Confirm your entry.
• As soon as d.00 appears on the left side of the screen, use the 2 buttons to enter the number.

• You can change the parameter on the right side of the screen using the 3 keys.
• After confirmation, press mode to exit the menu.

For Electrolux Quantum models:

• Unplug the appliance from the mains for a few seconds.
• After turning on the regulator, hold the red button for 15 seconds.
• As soon as P01 lights up on the display, press the red key until P07 appears.

• If the number 1 flashes after P07, then 38°C - 85°C is maintained. If it glows 4 - 60°С–85°С, 7 - 38°С–60°С.
• Use the "+" "-" knob to adjust the desired value.
• Switch off the boiler for a few seconds. Now it will automatically support the specified parameters.

How to program technology Viessmann ("Wiesman"), look at the video:

For Eurosit 630:

All the steps above are used to set the appliance in heating mode. Many users are faced with a problem when, in DHW mode, water of an unstable temperature comes out of the tap. To fix this, use our recommendations.

Hot water temperature changes

To regulate the water supply to comfortable levels, it is necessary to reduce the burner power.

• Open the mixer to switch the boiler to DHW mode.
• Set the temperature to 55°C.
• Go to the service menu as described above (for "Proterm").
• Select parameter d.53.
• Click Mode.
• After that, the maximum power will appear in the line. Let's take 17 as an example.

If you experiment and immediately select the minimum value - 90, then the temperature of the water from the tap will not be comfortable. We set 80 and we get an increase in the degree of water. Raise the values ​​little by little until you are satisfied with the DHW supply. In our case, the water reached +50 degrees, and the setting was 80. This is despite the fact that the factory was - 17. This is such a difference.

SIT valve adjustment

The automation of some units provides for the presence of a gas valve of the SIT type. It is found in the models Vaillant ("Vailant") and "Proterm". Adjustment is carried out by turning the bolts on the valve. To change the power, you need to change the pressure. Values ​​of 1.3–2.5 kPa are considered normal.

To reduce pressure, turn the bolts counterclockwise. To reduce the pressure in DHW mode, you need to rotate the adjustment nut. More details are shown in the video:

bypass valve

If the batteries in the room warm up unevenly, increase the coolant circulation rate. To do this, turn the bypass screw clockwise.

If, on the contrary, the liquid makes noise in the batteries when the heating is turned on, then reduce the coolant speed by turning the screw in reverse side. Use a pressure gauge or a digital differential pressure gauge to set up and measure. He will indicate the nominal pressure, which should not exceed 0.2–0.4 bar.

Launch problems

During launch and operation gas equipment Bosch, Ariston, Ferroli, Oasis may have problems.

Boiler clocking

At wrong choice the power of technology, excessive cyclicity occurs. This means that the burner of the device often turns on and off, and the radiators do not have time to warm up. Firstly, it leads to rapid wear of units and parts of equipment. Secondly, it is used a large number of fuel.

To eliminate the phenomenon and reduce the cyclicity, two methods are used:

• Lower the burner flame.
• Increase the heating power by including additional radiators in the circuit.

How to complete the first paragraph, we described above. Sometimes you have to mount additional batteries, although this is a rather expensive method.

Igniter not working

If ignition attempts at Immergaz, Korea Star were unsuccessful, inspect the igniter. He could get dirty. The problem is fixed by cleaning the part. You can wipe it with a dry cloth or use a solvent.

Examine the combustion block. Soot often accumulates there. Soot is removed by lightly tapping on the gas supply pipe to the burner.

The igniter worked, but there is still no ignition. Diagnosis required:

• thermocouples;
• supply valve;
• thermostat;
• solenoid valve.

No DHW heating

When the mixer is opened, water is supplied with a small pressure, the flow is cold. Inspect the heat exchanger for clogging caused by scale deposits. Clean the tubes with reagents. Use a pump to pump. Rinse the knot after the procedure running water. To make the temperature readings comfortable, install cleaning filters. They reduce the likelihood of scale formation.