In a modern apartment, many electrical devices work at the same time. During repairs, it often becomes necessary to move poorly located sockets and plan them so that you can connect each device without problems and not stumble over the wires stretching through the whole house. This is most relevant for old-built houses - in new buildings, the power grid is usually organized more efficiently. Before starting work, you should consider how to rationally arrange household and digital appliances, shields and sockets.

Optimal location

In each room, residents often or constantly use various electrical appliances. So that all interior items are in place and the sockets are not hidden behind a closet or sofa, you should draw a plan for each room with the indicated dimensions and determine where the furniture, appliances, and lighting will fit. It is also necessary to take into account building codes and regulations in order to ensure fire safety and the accurate operation of electrical wiring.

Hallway and corridor

Lighting in the hallway is best connected using separate switches. Most often in this room they use dryers for shoes or a vacuum cleaner. Therefore, two sockets will be sufficient, located in the corner at a height of 30 cm from the floor and 10 cm from the door or furniture. If it is necessary to install additional electrical devices in the hallway, the circuit becomes more complicated.

Bathroom

In the bathroom, a washing machine, a shower cabin and a water heater can be permanently plugged into sockets. Often you need to use a hair dryer or a razor. For large equipment, separate energy sources will be required, which, according to the rules, should be located no closer than 60 cm from the water source and from the floor. You should buy special moisture-proof sockets with a cover and marking IP44 - they have a special plastic flange on the inside to drain water when it hits.

A forced exhaust fan is usually connected to a light switch - if a person enters the bathroom, the hood starts to work.

Kitchen

The kitchen leads in the number of constantly working electrical appliances. The main list of equipment constantly included in the network:

• fridge;
• Dishwasher;
• electric stove;
• microwave;
• television;
• hood;
• electric kettle;
• washing machine.

Therefore, you need at least eight sockets for constant work and at least five for small household appliances, such as a mixer, coffee grinder or meat grinder.

The main difficulty is the correct location of sockets for built-in appliances - they cannot be placed behind electrical appliances, so it is better to move the energy sources beyond the adjacent kitchen cabinets. Separate power supplies must be installed for the hob and oven - a double socket will not withstand the load.

Sockets for a blender or toaster, which the owners use on the table, must be installed 30 cm above the work surface.

Living room

This room is used for recreation and entertainment of the household, it has a TV, audio center, Wi-Fi router, split system, local lighting points. These devices are connected permanently, sockets for them, according to safety rules, are mounted at a height of 30 cm from the floor and at least 10 cm from door and window openings.

For a split system, the socket should be placed at the top, near the installation site of the indoor unit - this will avoid ugly wires on the walls.

It would be a good solution to make it possible to connect chargers or an electric fireplace in the sofa area.

Bedroom

Bedside tables usually have phones or tablets that require additional recharging. Therefore, the best solution would be to place a couple of sockets by the bed, at a distance of 15-20 cm from the table top.

If there is a dressing table in the bedroom, then it is also worth installing an outlet for connecting a hairdryer or other equipment near it.

It is convenient to watch your favorite movies and programs while lying in bed, so the TV is usually hung on the wall opposite the head of the bed. You can hide the socket behind the screen panel.

Children's

A small child needs a socket for a night light, but it is worth considering that in a couple of years you will need energy sources for game consoles and charging your phone, tablet, TV and computer. And if there are several children, then the load on the power grid increases.

For children's rooms, it is advisable to buy safe sockets with covers or plugs and arrange them so that the baby does not reach hanging wires.

Office or desktop

The desktop usually has a computer, a monitor, peripheral equipment, a telephone, and a table lamp. For comfortable work, you will need at least 6 sockets with a surge protector, and in order to hide an ugly mess of wires, you should mount electrical accessories at a height of 25-30 cm above the floor and remove the wires under the cable channel.

Video: How to place sockets and switches

Planning at the design stage will allow you to equip each functional area in the apartment as you wish, for example, equip a workplace and print on a laptop while lying on your favorite sofa. If you arrange the power connectors in the apartment in accordance with the safety rules and take into account the number and placement of the main electrical appliances, then the wires will not be tangled under your feet, and the use of equipment will become more convenient.

In fact, there are no strict rules in construction regarding the number and location of sockets and switches, either in an apartment or in a private house. But there are two documents that say how and where it is better to place sockets and switches. The first document is SP 31-110-2003, which says that the switches should be placed on the side of the door handles, the distance from the floor to the switch is not more than one meter. Sockets can be placed anywhere, but also at a height of up to a meter. The second document is the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations, which talks about safety rules when installing sockets and switches. The distance from sockets and switches to gas pipelines is normalized, it must be at least 50 cm. In bathrooms, it is allowed to install sockets at a distance of 60 cm from sinks, bathtubs, showers, etc. Such sockets must be protected by an RCD with a trip current of up to 30mA (residual current device).

At present, the European standard for installing sockets and switches has firmly entered the "fashion", according to which sockets are installed at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and switches at a height of 90 cm from the floor. This arrangement of sockets and switches is convenient for all family members. Since the child himself can turn on the light, and the adult does not even have to raise his hand to the switch, because he is at arm's height. Cords from electrical appliances plugged into sockets lie on the floor and do not interfere with the passage. Comfortable!

Figure 1. According to the European standard, sockets are installed at a height of 30 cm, and switches 90 cm from the floor level.

Earlier in the Soviet Union, the standard for installing sockets and switches was used, according to which sockets were placed at a height of 90 cm from the floor, and switches were placed at a height of 1.6 m from the floor. This standard also has its advantages, and it is no worse than the European standard. Therefore, at present, many prefer this standard. For example, the switch is always in front of your eyes, and you can insert the plug into the socket without bending down. According to what standard to put sockets and switches to choose for you personally, both options have their pros and cons.

Figure 2. According to the Soviet standard, sockets are installed at a height of 90 cm, and switches 160 cm from the floor level.

There are no prohibitions and restrictions on the height of installation of sockets and switches in the kitchen, as well as in other rooms, therefore they should be placed for reasons of practicality and ease of use, but taking into account the requirements of the PUE. Which says the following.​

7.1.48. Any switches and sockets must be at least 60 cm away from the doorway of the shower cabin. Therefore, from the sink.

7.1.50. The minimum distance from switches, socket outlets and elements of electrical installations to gas pipelines must be at least 50 cm.

Based on the standard dimensions of kitchen furniture, a certain standard has been formed for the height of the installation of sockets and switches in the kitchen. According to which it is customary to install sockets at three levels.

First level 10-15 cm from the floor, on which sockets for an electric stove, dishwasher, refrigerator, waste disposer are installed ... This height is optimal in terms of access to sockets, because after installing the "kitchen" it will be possible to get close to them only from below.

Second level 110-130 cm from the floor, on which sockets are installed for connecting a kettle, blender, multicooker, microwave oven, that is, for those electrical appliances that will be used on the work surface (table) and used for cooking.

Third level 200-250 cm from the floor, sockets are installed here to connect the hood and lighting. This height is also chosen taking into account the possibility of access to sockets. It is enough just to stand on a chair and sockets in front of your eyes. And standing on the floor they are not visible behind the upper kitchen cabinets.

Figure 3. In the kitchen, sockets are installed at three levels. Switches can be installed both according to the European standard and according to the Soviet standard.

Installation height of sockets and switches in the bathroom.

The bathroom is a room with high humidity, so all sockets installed in the bathroom must be connected through an RCD and have a degree of protection against moisture of at least IP44, with a splash-proof cover on a spring, this is required from us by the PUE and common sense. Install sockets and switches, once again, it is necessary at a distance of at least 60 cm from sinks, showers. It is also not allowed to install sockets under and above the sink. But the installation height of the sockets must be chosen so that it is most convenient for you to use such household appliances as a hair dryer, an electric shaver.

Figure 4. Sockets in the bathroom are installed at a distance of at least 60 cm from the shower cabin and sink, and are connected through the RCD, in accordance with the requirements of the PUE.

Recommendations for installation height and location of sockets and switches in the bedroom.

My clients often ask me where to install sockets and switches in the bedroom? Based on personal experience, I give the following recommendations, which are based on comfort and ease of use. For example, if a double bed is installed, the option is suitable when on both sides of the bed there is a socket and a two-gang switch at a height of 70 cm from the floor. Sockets in order to lie on the bed, you can connect, for example, a phone for charging, and switches so that you can turn on or off the light in the room or sconces without getting out of bed.

Figure 5. In the bedroom, we select the height of sockets and switches based on the conditions of comfort and ease of use.

In such a scheme, you can fully control the lighting from three places, one switch is traditionally installed at the entrance and the other two are on both sides of the bed, as shown in the figure. It is very comfortable!

Dear visitors of the site, in conclusion of the article, I want to invite you to watch a video on how exactly you do not need to install sockets and switches in the apartment. This video provides specific examples of the most common mistakes in all rooms of the apartment. Watching this video will help you avoid problems and mistakes, because after installation, you don’t want to redo everything!

One of the most critical parts of repairing a room is the correct placement of electrical wiring. When drawing up a layout for sockets, it is necessary to take into account such important aspects as the size of the room, the total number of all switches and sockets, and, of course, how the furniture is arranged.

Rules for the placement of electrical wiring

There are no strict restrictions. However, there are some requirements for the installation of sockets, for example, in the bathroom or in industrial premises. And there are also recommendations for installing switches and sockets in the apartment, but sticking to them or not is purely a matter of your needs and tastes.

In the Soviet Union (during the old traditions), it was believed that the socket should be at a distance of 90 cm from the floor, and the switch - at a distance of 160 cm (1.6 m).

Such standards created ease of use, since in order to reach the level of the switch, it was not necessary to bend down or sit down. Because of this, even now, many people adhere to just such rules.

New traditions - European standard

Together with the definition of "Euro-repair" from nearby countries, such a term as "Eurostandard" for the location of sockets came to us. What does the European standard imply? These rules in no way limit the height of a room or the total number of switches and sockets in a dwelling, but only help to recommend the correct method of installation in hazardous areas, taking into account safety measures.

In accordance with European standards, sockets and switches should be placed as follows:

The switch is at a distance of 90 cm from the floor (if you notice, according to old traditions, this was a place for an outlet, but according to people of the current generation, this way you can turn off or turn on the light without raising your hand).

The socket is now located at a distance of 30 cm from the floor, which makes it convenient to hide the wires that I would like to hide from prying eyes.

On all the photos that are presented in the text and in our gallery at the end, you can see how the location of the outlets differs before and now.

Remember that the diameter of the pins of European sockets is much larger than the diameter of the pins of domestic sockets, and the strength of the received current is approximately 10 to 16 A, while for Russian ones it is only 10 A.

Therefore, if you want to use appliances with more power, then you should definitely install European sockets indoors.

Planning the installation of sockets and switches in the room

Any room is planned in a peculiar way, which means that for each room you need to choose options for the location of electrical installations.

The corridor

Each apartment has a small entrance hall, where the switches also need to be correctly placed, since this is the room that a person enters in the first place. Usually in the corridor two or three sockets are taken as necessary.

Also in the hallway it will be useful to place a switchboard, a switch (or block of switches), an electric meter, and so on.

Kitchen

The outlet for the hood should be located at a level of 2 meters from the floor.

Sockets for connecting washing machines, dishwashers and refrigerators are best located 10-20 cm from the floor level. For household appliances that do not have a very long wire, you can make a socket in about 50 cm.

To accommodate small items (for example, a toaster), the socket must be 110 cm above the floor level (or 20 cm from the level of the kitchen worktop).

Lighting devices occupy an electrical outlet located approximately 5-10 cm above the furniture.

Attention! The power of all electric lines in the kitchen should be less than the prescribed norm, as this will activate all points of energy consumption at the same time.

Bedroom and living room

It would be best to place an outlet on each side of the bed. The height from the floor is approximately 70 cm, since it is in this position that it will be possible to connect, for example, a bedside lamp to the outlet, as well as charge any device.

As for the switch, it should be placed at the front door. Also welcome is the location of an additional block of sockets above the desktop (about 30 cm from its level).

In the living room or hall, you will definitely need a small number of sockets 130 cm above the floor. They can be hidden behind the TV. Of course, the presence of a spare outlet is also assumed. The switch, as in the bedroom, should be near the front door.

Bathroom and toilet

It's no secret that the bathroom is a room with high humidity, so all sockets and switches must be provided for such conditions (have a protection level of at least IP44).

It is strictly forbidden to place devices at a distance of less than 60 cm from the bathtub or shower stall, and also below 15 cm from the floor level (since small floods are possible in such a room).

So, using all the skills of the correct location of sockets and switches in different rooms of the room, you can protect yourself and your loved ones and avoid redoing the wiring in the future.

Photo of the location of sockets

In a modern apartment, the kitchen is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of pantographs connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.

Based on this, the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be carried out by an independent group, and even better by several groups.

Power of electrical appliances in the kitchen

Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.

Here is a sample list of them:

• lighting - 150-200 watts

• Microwave - 2000 Watts

• Refrigerator - 100 watts

• Dishwasher - 1000-2000 watts

• Kettle electric - 2000 watts

• Oven - 2000 Watts

• Water heater - 2000 watts

• Cooktop - 3500-7500 Watts

Of course, all appliances will not turn on at the same time. But you have to calculate the total power. Most often it is in the range of 10-15 watts.

The maximum power, when several pantographs are switched on at the same time, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.

If you have this power higher than 7kW, then here you already need to think about inputting 380V and distribute the load by phases.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Follow the rules here:

• with a load of devices up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2

• with a load of devices up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 4mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2

Why the VVGnG-Ls brand should be, is detailed in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-wire cable. This will save you from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires in the future.

In extreme cases, the third wire will be reserved for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage.

Layout of outlets in the kitchen

After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets.

Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design has been approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, the outlets of the work area can easily be in the wrong place, and eventually hide behind the refrigerator.

To ensure that your sockets and switches are in place, take a plan for arranging kitchen furniture.

After that, mark on it all the necessary sockets. You can even do it by hand.

On this plan, it is not yet necessary to clearly tie the installation sites and calculate the dimensions and distances. Just count the number and purpose of each of the outlets.

Number of outlets

How many outlets are required in the kitchen?

Under the category of stationary equipment fall - refrigerator, extractor hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposal.

In addition, it does not hurt to mount one outlet immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room.

The zone with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Lay at least two pieces for each part (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Distances and placements

When you have decided on the quantity, it's time to move on to calculating the required dimensions and indents. To do this, draw something like a sweep of the walls where the furniture will stand.

Here you will already need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - the length, height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, draw the equipment and all the cabinets.

If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall.

Fridge

For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the socket group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row so that the connection is not visible.

It is impossible to say unequivocally with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.

This is explained by the fact that if you set it higher, then the embedded appliances will rest against the plugs.

If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area.

Sockets in the work area and above the countertop

The height of the tabletop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a wall with a height of 550-600mm and then cabinets.

Place outlets in this area 105cm from the floor.

In this case, they will not be in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.

The minimum distance from the countertop must be at least 5 cm so that the kitchen plinth does not touch them. Locations - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink.

As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of outlets above your kitchen backsplash, consider a pull-out unit from the countertop.

Be sure to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave.

Under it, you will also have to make a separate outlet. Pull the cords from above to the countertop area not according to Feng Shui.

Hood

Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, there is a socket under the hood. However, a lot depends on the brand. If this is a cheap option, then you can get by with the output of the cable and then connect it right inside the equipment.

But if this is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. Cutting off the factory plug will void the warranty.

Cooker and oven

In the presence of a powerful hob, either a cable output is made, followed by a connection directly under the panel's terminal blocks, or a special power outlet is installed.

Ovens, unlike cooking ovens, come with ordinary forks, so there is no need to be smart here. Plug them into simple sockets.

When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the hob and oven, it is very convenient to place sockets right inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount.

If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group.

In the case of a separate installation of the oven from the hob, for example, at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750 mm.

Dishwasher

According to SP 31-110 2003 p.14.29, it is forbidden to make any sockets under and above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always retreat a few centimeters when installing the socket group near this plumbing. This applies to both the lower placement and the working area at the top.

It is also forbidden to place sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine.

Near the dining table (if it is near the wall, and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.

On big holidays, with an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, juicer, food processor, etc.

And on simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.

• for a group of sockets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, a 16A automatic machine is mounted

• for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this current collector

You can also navigate according to the following table for choosing machines and cables when connecting the hob:

• since the kitchen is a wet room, plus a huge number of objects with a metal case, it is mandatory to install an introductory RCD for a current of 30mA in the shield in front of all machines

• a separate socket is placed on each current collector

This is not only an additional load on the wiring, but also a potential short circuit (due to spilled tea or other liquid).

Common mistakes

1 Installation of wiring and sockets before approval and approval of the design project of kitchen furniture.

The problems that you will definitely encounter in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since factory cords with a plug will simply not reach the connection points.

2 Refrigerator connection.

The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on their connection through extension cords. At the same time, the length of the cord is not so big, only 1m.

Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find a passport on the Internet and see which side the power cord comes out of. Add the width of the refrigerator here and plan the connection point accordingly to get rid of carrying.

And in some models, the freezer can be connected with a separate independent cord, or you will buy a freezer in the future. Initially, you will make only one outlet for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to make this block double.

3 Connecting sockets to "wet" appliances through a simple machine.

Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine (if built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater, etc. must be connected through an RCD or differential automatic.

No modular machines, let alone "plugs", will ever save you from current leaks.

Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case.

4 The most common mistake is the installation of ordinary sockets (such as Schuko) for a dishwasher under the sink or near the faucet.

This location is prohibited by the rules. Step back from the mixer 500mm (the same applies to gas pipes on stoves or hobs) and only then boldly mount the electrical installation.

If electricians have already wired it there and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such a repair, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom).

It is also forbidden to mount wiring accessories in the immediate vicinity of the stoves.

5 When mounting the bottom outlet group at a distance of 10 cm from the floor, be extremely careful!

In the area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for sinks, washing machines, dishwashers.

Not knowing the exact route, do not rush to ditch the walls, otherwise for you and your neighbors it may turn into a flood and unplanned repairs.

Summing up, I would like to say that the electrical wiring in the kitchen should be done by professionals. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your competent comments during installation work.

The issue of the correct location of electrical connectors, that is, sockets and switches, needs to be paid attention on time, even at the stage of planning the placement of all household appliances. In addition, you need to take into account the number of large and small equipment, according to which the installation of sockets and switches will be carried out.

There is a certain set of rules for electrical installation that guides specialists, and you can take note to become more aware before starting installation work.

How to arrange outlets

So, the first thing that may puzzle you with the installation of sockets is the height of their location relative to the floor level.

In the kitchen room, sockets should be installed at a height of about 1 m. 30 cm, but this figure sometimes changes, depending on the size and arrangement of kitchen furniture.

It’s good if the main part of all kitchen outlets is located above the work surface, because it’s convenient. But, nevertheless, one should not forget that the minimum distance from sockets to the sink and gas pipeline must be at least 50 cm.

In bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity, sockets are not allowed to be installed lower than 1 m above the floor.

In addition, their location near the bath, shower cabin (or inside it) is prohibited. If the socket is mounted next to the sink, choose a higher location so that splashes of water do not fall on the socket.

3

In residential premises, sockets, according to the rules, are installed at a height of 20-30 cm above the floor.

But it is worth noting that such an arrangement is not appropriate in a house where small children live. If sockets are already installed, you should choose a design with a special curtain and lock to protect children from accidents.

How to properly position switches

You are probably familiar with the time when it was customary to place switches in apartments at the level of the shoulder or eyes of an adult, that is, at a height of approximately 1 m 70 cm. Today, a device for switching lighting fixtures is installed according to ergonomic convenience.

• The switches are located at the doorway on the side of the door handle at a distance of 10 cm.
• The height of the switches according to the floor is 80 - 90 cm, at the level of the hand lowered down.
• In bathrooms, the minimum distance from the switch to the doorway of the shower cabin is 60-70 cm.
• Switches installed above the work surface in the kitchen, as well as sockets, should not be located closer to the sink or gas pipeline closer than 50 - 60 cm.

Personal comfort

The above are general standard rules for the placement of sockets and switches, but in your own apartment you may have personal needs for their installation.

So, for example, many people read before going to bed, therefore, a socket for a table lamp is simply necessary near the bed. By the way, it is better to install it according to the rules, at a height of 30 cm above the floor. But, it is better to place the switch a little lower than a distance of 80 cm - ideally, next to the outlet.

1

Modern configurations of furniture: kitchen, work or leisure - are able to surprise, largely due to hidden features. Such as built-in or under the tabletop, retractable organizers with several sockets for portable devices (chargers, electric kettle, laptop) and other modern devices, without which we can no longer imagine our existence.

It should be noted that such built-in sockets must be insulated, especially if they are located on the working surface of kitchen furniture or an island. And the installation process must be entrusted only to specialists, even at the stage of designing the cabinet body.