Some modern boiler models can change the operating mode depending on the presence of people in the room. This makes it possible to maintain optimal temperature with a long absence of the owners. But nevertheless, it is not worth leaving the boiler unattended for a long time. Otherwise, in the event of an emergency power outage, the unit may fail.

If you find it difficult to readjust or adjust the operation of your gas boiler yourself, contact a specialist.

The most economical boilers

Statistics and specifications indicate that gas boilers foreign manufacturers have the highest efficiency. Manufacturers Baxi, Protherm, Buderus, Bosch have proven themselves quite well in the market.

If you have not yet decided on the choice, pay attention to condensing boilers - its efficiency is higher than that of traditional ones by 10-11%, they are the most economical and powerful, but they are also not cheap. But low fuel consumption and long service life will pay off the money spent on it. Its principle of operation differs in that the products of fuel combustion do not leave in the form of gas, but pass through a heat exchanger made of high-quality steel, heat the water, cool down and fall out in the form of liquid condensate.

To achieve optimal operation of the gas boiler, it should be maintained in good condition, regularly cleaned of soot and scale, and equipped with an automatic room temperature control system. If you follow these recommendations, your unit will delight you with smooth operation, low gas consumption and a cozy atmosphere in the house.

Hello, friends. What is the optimal operating mode for a gas boiler? There are a number of contributing factors here. These are the conditions of its work, and its potential, and its design, etc.

The main motive for finding the best regimen is economic benefit. At the same time, equipment should provide maximum efficiency, and fuel is consumed minimally.

Factors affecting the operation of the boiler

They are as follows:

1. Design. A technique can have 1 or 2 circuits. It can be wall or floor mounted.
2. Standard and actual efficiency.
3. Competent heating arrangement. The power of technology is comparable to the area that needs to be heated.
4. Boiler technical conditions.
5. Gas quality.

All these points need to be optimized so that the device gives out the best efficiency,

The question is about the design.

The device can have 1 or 2 circuits. The first option is complemented by an indirect heating boiler. The second already has everything you need. And the key mode in it is ensuring hot water... When water is supplied, heating ends.

Wall-mounted models have more modest power than floor-mounted models. And they can heat a maximum of 300 sq.m. If your living space is larger, you will need a floor-standing unit.

A.2 efficiency factors.

The document for each boiler reflects the standard parameter: 92-95%. For condensation modifications it is about 108%. But the actual parameter is usually 9-10% lower. It decreases even more due to heat losses. Their list:

1. Physical underburn. The reason is the excess air in the apparatus when gas is burned, and the temperature of the exhaust gases. The larger they are, the more modest the boiler efficiency.
2. Chemical underburning. The volume of CO2 monoxide produced by the combustion of carbon is important here. Heat is lost through the walls of the apparatus.

Methods for increasing the actual efficiency of the boiler:

1. Removal of soot from the pipeline.
2. Removal of limescale from the water circuit.
3. Limit chimney draft.
4. Adjust the position of the blower door so that the thermal medium reaches the maximum temperature.
5. Eliminate soot on the combustion chamber.
6. Installation of a coaxial chimney.

P.3 Questions about heating. As already noted, the power of the device necessarily correlates with the heating area. We need a competent calculation. The specifics of the structure and potential heat losses are taken into account. It is better to entrust the calculation to a professional.

If the house is built according to building codes, the formula is 100 W per 1 sq. M. It turns out the following table:

To acquire better boilers foreign production. Also in the advanced versions there are many useful options to help you achieve the optimal mode. One way or another, the optimal power of the device is in the range of 70-75% of the highest value.

Technical conditions. To prolong the life of the device, remove from internal parts soot and scale.

Optimal mode the operation of a gas boiler to save gas is achieved by eliminating the cycle. That is, you need to put the gas supply in smallest value... The attached instructions will help with this.

There is an aspect that cannot be influenced - this is the quality of the gas.

Optimal Mode Setting Methods

Many devices are programmed for the temperature of the heat carrier. When it reaches the required values, the unit turns off for a short time. The user can set the temperature himself. The parameters also change from the weather. For example, the optimal operating mode of a gas boiler in winter is obtained at values ​​of 70-80 C. In spring and autumn - at 55 - 70 C.

V modern models there are temperature sensors, thermostats and auto-tuning modes.

Thanks to the thermostat, you can set the desired climate in the room. And the heat carrier will warm up and cool down with a specific intensity. In this case, the device reacts to temperature fluctuations in the house and outside. This is the optimal operating mode for a floor-standing gas boiler. Although with the help of such devices, you can also optimize the mounted model. At night, the parameters can be reduced by 1-2 degrees.

Thanks to these devices, less gas is spent by 20%.

If you want solid efficiency and savings from the boiler, purchase the desired model... Some examples are offered below.

Model examples

1. Baksi.

The optimal operating mode of this wall-mounted gas boiler is achieved as follows: small apartments indicators are put on F08 and F10. The modulation spectrum starts at 40% of the highest power. And the minimum possible operating mode is 9 kW.

Many models of this company are very economical and can work at low gas pressure. Pressure range: 9 - 17 mbar. Suitable voltage range: 165 - 240 V.

1. Vilant.

Many devices of this brand work optimally under the following conditions: power - 15 kW. The feed is set to 50-60. The apparatus works for 35 minutes, and rests for 20 minutes.

1. Ferroli.

The best conditions: for heating 13 kW, for heating water - 24 kW.

1. Mercury.

The water pressure in the network is a maximum of 0.1 MPa. The highest temperature indicator at the outlet section is 90 C, the nominal flue gas indicator is at least 110 C. The vacuum behind the apparatus is a maximum of 40 Pa.

1. Navien.

Basically, these are double-circuit units. Automation works here. The mode is configured by itself. The parameter for warming up the room is set. There is a pump that can reduce parameters by 4-5 degrees.

1. Ariston.

Automatic setting of modes also works. People often choose models with the Comfort-Plus mode.

1. Buderus.

The values ​​are usually set on the feed: 40 - 82 C. The current parameter is usually displayed on the monitor. The most comfortable summer mode- at 75 C.

Conclusion

Thanks to the gas boiler, you can conveniently adjust the climate in the house. Especially if you are using an innovative technique with automation modes and many useful options.

Tell me about the boilers and clock. When the set temperature of the coolant is reached, should the boiler reduce the gas consumption and reach the minimum (or so) power? As a result, there should be no clock. Unless the minimum power turns out to be more than necessary to maintain the set temperature of the coolant.

Then the question is: how to find out the boiler power range (or, equivalently, the gas flow range). With the maximum it is clear - it is indicated everywhere.

Click to Expand ...

In one room? As if in each separate room the temperature can change (by + - 1 degree at least) for reasons independent of the weather and the boiler (they opened the door to the next room, where the temperature is different, opened the window, people entered, turned on .-l. a powerful device, the wind direction changed to the opposite - as a result, the temperature difference across the rooms was 1gr: at one end of the house + 0.5gr, in the other -0.5, total 1gr, and so on). 1 degree is enough. For the whole house, 1 degree is very, very decent. You need to spend a lot of cubic meters of gas to raise the temperature in the house by 1 degree (especially if the house is> 200 square meters). And it turns out that for one sensor in one room, the boiler will have to cook for a long time at full power. And then the conditions in a particular room, where the sensor, will change, and the boiler will have to be turned off abruptly. And heating is a very inertial thing. There is a decent amount of water (hundreds of liters, if the house is not small), in order to raise the temperature in the premises by 1 g, you first need to heat all this water and only then it will give off heat to the premises of the house. As a result, the coolant will heat up, and in the room where the sensor is, the conditions have already changed (they turned off the device, a lot of people left, closed the door to the next room). That is, it seems like a signal to the boiler to lower the temperature IN THE WHOLE HOUSE, and the coolant is already heated, and there is nowhere to go, it will give its heat to the house when, judging by the sensor in one room, it needs to be reduced ...

In general, the point is that it is probably not very correct to determine the operation of the boiler for the whole house by one point of measuring the temperature in the house, because if the room is "normal", then the temperature fluctuations that do not depend on the weather and boiler operation are too large (more precisely, sufficient to change the boiler operation mode WHEN the change in the integral temperature throughout the house is NOT ENOUGH to change the boiler operation modes), and will lead to a change in the boiler operating mode when it is not really necessary.

You need to know the integral temperature around the house - then, based on this temperature, you can determine the operating mode of the boiler. Because integral temperature around the house (especially in big house) changes very and VERY slowly (if the heating is completely turned off, then it will take more than 4 hours for it to fall by 1 gr.) - and a change in this temperature by at least 0.5 gr. - this is already a sufficient signal to increase the gas consumption to the boiler. From a simple opening of the door, from the fact that there are many more people in the house, etc. - from all this, the heat integrated in the house will not change even by 0.1 g. Bottom line - you need a bunch of sensors for different rooms and then bring all the readings into one averaged one (in this case, for good reason, take not just the average, but the integral average, i.e. take into account not only the temperature of each specific sensor, but also the volume of the room in which this sensor is located).

P.S. For relatively small houses (probably 100m or less), probably all of the above is uncritical.

P.P.S. All of the above is imho

I have a BAXI 24Fi boiler, it started just the other day and I did not immediately like its cyclical mode. Very often it ignites the burner (3 minutes after the pump runs out). But the burner burns a little, literally 20-40 seconds and that's it. Perhaps the boiler output is too large for my heating system.

I have a BAXI Eco3 Compact 240FI, an apartment of 85 sq. First heating season, last year worked only on hot water supply. Before connecting the room thermostat, I clocked at a similar interval. At a higher water temperature (60-70 degrees), the burner operates from 40 seconds to 1.5 minutes, then there is a set delay for turning on the burner of 30 or 150 seconds, depending on the T-off switch on the board. All this time, the pump is running, since the run-out time when working on heating is sewn into the board - 3 minutes (it's a pity that you can't change). During this time, t water decreases by 10 degrees from the set one and the cycle repeats. Setting the water t below (40 degrees), reduced the burner operation time to 30-50 seconds.
I experimented with adjusting the maximum power of the heating circuit - I did not notice significant deviations in the operating time of the burner. The water temperature is more influential.

Yes, he's already set up. The jumper on terminals 1 and 2 is like a "perpetual turn-on request" from the thermostat. By replacing it with a smart box with a relyukha, it is possible to limit the burner operating periods by a schedule for the day and a week (electronic programmable thermostats) and the air temperature in the room (electronic and mechanical thermostats). The temperature of the coolant is recommended to be chosen higher (70-75 degrees).

When working without a thermostat, you had to monitor the temperature outside
Now +10 +15 overboard, and even setting t = 40, you can get heat in the rooms, plus clock and gas overrun.
With a thermostat, 75 degrees is recommended. Then, during the heating period, which makes it possible to raise the air temperature in the room by the "thermostat delta", the water temperature does not have time to reach 75 degrees and the boiler works continuously all this time. So far, at a positive temperature outside the window, this time for me is 15-20 minutes, when the water heats up to 60-65 degrees, followed by idle time for 1.5-2 hours.
Even if it heats up the water to 75 before the air warms up, the boiler turns off and turns on again after the obligatory 150 seconds. just me. Here, the heating periods will already be short, but not numerous. Since the pump is running all this time, the radiators are hot and the air temperature will quickly reach the value set in the thermostat. Then it is idle again for 1.5-2 hours.
I don't think it's necessary to set the maximum possible temperature (85 degrees) right away - winter is still ahead.
And such a remark. After turning off by the thermostat, during the run-on of the pump, the air in the room is still heated (I have +0.1 to the set one)
With more hot water there will be some "overcomfort" and overrun
So the temperature of the coolant in the presence of a room thermostat mainly determines the heating rate to the set air temperature.

If about the delta of air temperature in the characteristics of thermostats, then 0.5 is quite enough. In more expensive brands, there is also an adjustable one from 0.1 degrees. So far, I have not noticed the need for such an accurate temperature maintenance.
Much more interesting is the moment of choosing the values ​​of a comfortable and economical temperature (in terms of some brands of thermostats with two levels of set temperature, this can be "day" and "night").
Typically the factory setting is 2-3 degrees.
But then in the morning before waking up, it will take much longer to raise the temperature to a comfortable one than it would take a heating cycle while maintaining the temperature with a delta of 0.5. Hence the increase in consumption. The situation is the same if the heating is set before returning from work, and in the daytime, in the absence of people, the apartment is heated according to the economy mode.
Here, of course, you need experience and statistics in monitoring consumption.

If the thermostat holds the permission to operate the boiler (the temperature is lower than the set one), then the burner in the boiler burns constantly until the thermostat removes the permission (when the setpoint is reached), or what? Couldn't he just overheat at this time?

Will not overheat. The thermostat allows, but does not oblige the boiler to work. When the set temperature of the coolant is reached, the burner will turn off regardless of the mode on the thermostat.