Calla is a member of the aroid family native to South Africa. It is distinguished by long flowering until autumn and light agricultural technology. Even novice flower growers can easily cope with its cultivation.

Bright and colorful calla flowers will undoubtedly decorate any garden. Their tubers are planted in early May, and after a month you can see the first flowers.

Interesting! What we call the calla flower is actually the cover leaf of the cob of the inflorescence.

The place for these flowers is best chosen open and sunny with loose fertile soil. In nature, these flowers grow along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, so they need regular and plentiful watering in the garden. Calla lilies are planted to a depth of 5-10 cm and immediately after that are watered abundantly. After planting, they do not sprout until they grow a root system. Sometimes this process can take a long time.

These flowers are not able to overwinter in our climate, so in the fall, with the arrival of the first frosts, they have to be dug up, and then the question arises of how to store callas correctly in winter so that next summer they can again please with their flowering.

Dig up tubers of garden callas from the end of September, when there is a threat of frost. At this time, they are already completing their biological cycle, their foliage begins to turn yellow.

After digging up, the calla lilies are laid out for further drying for 10 days, while all leaves and roots must be left on the plants.

After this time, the tubers are carefully cleaned of the remnants of the earth, it is very important not to damage the young nodules and children.

Attention! Do not separate the children now, for the time winter storage they will ripen and in the spring will easily separate from the mother plant.

After cleaning the tubers from the ground, you can begin to remove dry leaves and root residues. It is very important to cut the roots, if they are left, the plants may soon begin to grow.

Now the peeled tubers must be dried for 2 weeks at a temperature of about 25 °. Only after that they can be placed for further storage.

Storage methods

Properly organized storage and compliance temperature regime during it are pledge abundant flowering during the summer period.

For winter storage at home, dried tubers of garden callas are placed in paper bags, cardboard boxes, or simply wrapped in newspapers. Further, depending on the possibilities, there are several storage options:

In the basement

To save planting material until spring, packages or boxes with it are placed in the basement, where during the winter period the temperature is maintained within + 5-10 °. It is very important not to allow the temperature to rise - this can lead to premature germination of planting material.

Attention! Proper storage of garden callas must be dry, so they cannot be stored in cellars, as there is usually consistently high humidity.

The dormant period for planting material lasts until the end of March. After that, the tubers can already be delivered and planted for growing in pots.

Bulbs should be checked periodically during storage. This will make it possible to identify and isolate diseased planting material in time.

In a refrigerator

To keep a small amount of planting material until spring at home, you can use the refrigerator. The tubers are wrapped in paper or newspapers and placed in a vegetable storage compartment, where the temperature is maintained within 5-7 °.

As with any other method of storage, when stored in a refrigerator, planting material should be inspected periodically. In this case, diseased and damaged specimens must be removed.

By the way! If the tuber is not completely damaged, you can try to save it by cutting sharp knife rotten places. Later, these areas must be cauterized with brilliant green.

On the loggia

This method is suitable for those who grow garden callas in pots. In this case, when autumn comes, watering is gradually reduced, and after the complete death of the leaves, the containers with plants can be transferred to glazed balcony or a loggia where they are left until spring.

In the apartment

When it is not possible to use other storage methods, you can try to save calla bulbs at home. To do this, the box with planting material must be placed in the coolest place, for example, near balcony door.

Need to know! At temperatures above + 20 °, callas are able to endure wintering, but by spring their tubers shrivel and dry out. In the future, this may cause weakened flowering in the summer.

Spring planting of tubers

For more early flowering calla tubers can be pre-sprouted. To do this, in early March they are taken out and inspected for rot. If they are found, the affected areas must be cut out, and the wound surface should be burned with brilliant green.

If the tubers wilt during storage, they must be wrapped in a damp cloth for several days. When they become hard and elastic, and dormant buds hatch on their surface, you can start sprouting.

Before planting, it is advisable to treat the tubers in a fungicide solution; you can use drugs such as Maxim or Vitaros. In the future, this will help to avoid outbreaks of fungal diseases.

The soil for these purposes is suitable loose with a slightly acidic reaction. Planting depth should be no more than 5 cm from the top of the tuber. The optimum temperature for plant development is 15-20°C.

Attention! Sometimes calla roots are able to climb to the surface, in this case, you just need to add 2-3 cm of soil to the pot.

There must be drainage holes in the pot; calla lilies do not tolerate stagnant water very well, even for a short time. Good result when growing callas, it gives top dressing with full mineral fertilizer once every 2 weeks.

When the soil on the street warms up to a temperature of + 15 °, grown plants can be planted in the ground. During transplantation, care must be taken, the roots of calla lilies are very fragile and do not recover after damage.

Your brownie.

3 methods: Overwintering callas indoors Overwintering callas outsideTransplanting overwintered callas

Hardy is a cultivar of calla lilies, typically white and survives outdoor wintering in many climates. Delicate varieties tend to have other colors and may not overwinter outdoors. For this reason, many gardeners protect calla bulbs in winter months. You can do this by protecting them indoors or trying to keep them safe outdoors. It's also helpful to know how to repot your callas if winter has arrived.

Method 1 Overwintering Callas Indoors

1. Try removing your calla bulbs from the soil to overwinter them indoors.

   If you live in a colder climate but are growing in a garden, consider removing your calla lilies' rhizomes or bulbs over the winter to give them a better chance of survival. For this:

   • Wait after the first frost. Cut the withered foliage back three inches (about 7.5 cm) above ground level.
2. Dig up your bulb.

   Carefully dig out the calla rhizome. Be sure to dig a much wider hole than you think you need. This will help you avoid damaging the bulb with a shovel.

Remove the soil from the bulb. Gently knock off as much soil as possible from healthy bulbs without damaging the roots. Rinse the bulbs in cool running water(e.g. water from a garden hose) to remove the rest of the soil.

3. Check your rhizomes carefully for rotting or any signs of disease.

   Do not keep rhizomes that are diseased or damaged. Throw them away with the trash.

   • Avoid composting diseased plant material as this can spread the infection to other plants.
4. Put the rhizomes on a tray and let them dry for a few days.

   They should be well spaced out to allow air to circulate between them. Lay in a dark, cool place such as a garden shed or garage. It is best to avoid keeping them in a heated house, as heat can be a shock, which can lead to mold on your bulbs.

   • 60 to 70 degrees F (about 15.5 to 21 degrees Celsius) is the ideal temperature for storing the rhizome. Try not to let them be exposed to sunlight.
5. Put the roots in paper bags.

   After they have dried for a few days, place the rhizomes in paper bags with a little dry peat moss or vermiculite. Having moss or vermiculite in the bag will help prevent one bulb from infecting another if it develops mold.

   • You can also use cardboard box if you make some vent holes to allow air to circulate. Don't let the bulbs touch each other and put moss or vermiculite between them.

Try to keep your roots dry. Moisture and rot are a big threat to overwintering rhizomes, so try to keep them dry where possible and store them in a dark, dry place. However, they should not dry completely. If the bulbs seem dry or shriveled, spray with water from a spray bottle to prevent them from drying out too much.

6. Give your rootstock time to recover before repotting it.

   Callas need to rest for a few months before they grow back. Try planting them in mid or late spring, once the danger of frost has passed and the ground is warmer.

   • Your callas are more at risk of rotting due to winter rain than frost, so avoid planting if the ground is waterlogged, even if the weather is mild.
7. Consider planting calla lilies in a pot.

   You can plant your calla outdoors in a container and move it indoors during the winter. When planting, use a decent quality compost and make sure the container has good drainage holes. Plant the rhizomes with the "eyes" up so that they are barely visible above the soil.

   • After the calla lilies bloom, stop watering your container of grown callas and move the pot to a cool, dark place after the foliage has died down. A dark corner in the garden shed will do. Don't water your plant again for three months and avoid cutting the foliage until it has withered.

Method 2 Wintering callas outside

1. Consider keeping your callas outside if you live in a mild climate.

   Calla lilies will survive outdoors through the winter in temperate climates that do not experience much persistent snow, deep freezing, and heavy prolonged precipitation during the cold months. They can manage outdoors during the winter in zones 8 to 10.

   • This means that they can survive in temperatures that do not drop below 30 to 35 degrees F (-1.1 to +1.7 degrees C).

Help the plant survive. After flowering is complete, refrain from watering and let the plant die. Try to refrain from cutting the foliage until it has withered.

2. Give your calla some protection.

   If she overwinters outdoors, apply a mulch of about four inches (10 cm) of straw or evergreen branches. You can also place it under an upside down jar.

   • Do this in the fall before the ground gets cold.

Method 3 Transplantation of overwintered calla lilies

1. Don't plant your calla lilies until you're sure there won't be any more frosts.

   Wait until the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up a bit before planting the rhizome outside.

   • Mid-spring is usually a good time to move your callas outside.

Choose a well-drained spot in the sun. Keep in mind that if you can't find a super sunny spot for kala, partial shade will do. A good idea to incorporate some well-rotted manure or compost into the soil to improve it before planting. Rich soil will help the calla bloom.

2. Plant the bulb correctly.

   The bulb should be planted with "eyes" up and they should be visible only in the upper part of the soil. These are the growth points that look like "eyes".

   • Leave about 12 inches (30 cm) of space between each of your bulbs. Once they are in the ground, give them a good soak and then continue to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.
3. Water for your calla.

   Callas need water throughout the summer. If you dig them up to overwinter indoors, they will need extra water. Remember, they need to be fed for two weeks during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer added to the watering can, but stop feeding as soon as the callas begin to bloom.

   • Continue feeding grown callas throughout the flowering period.

Watch out for pests. Callas can suffer from pests, attacks by aphids or whiteflies. Watch for pests and spray with an all-purpose insecticide if needed.

• Calla varieties can bloom as seasonal outdoor plants moved indoors for the winter, or as indoor plants.
• If you want your flowers to bloom especially early on, try planting a container in December. Keep the plant indoors at a cool room temperature in a bright spot such as a windowsill. This should ensure flowering for later spring.

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Callas - beautiful flowers perennials, they can be grown as a pot crop, or planted in the garden. With the advent of the first frosts, the question arises: how to store calla lilies in winter? For productive wintering, they need a temperature not lower than -2ºС. Not all climate zones have such mild winter weather, so these perennials need to be dug up for the winter to create optimal conditions for them.

The time for this technological operation is after the first frost, approximately:

• beginning of October at middle lane,
• beginning of November - in more southern regions.

There is no need to fear that the first small frosts will damage the plant. On the contrary, it will be a signal for him about the end of the vegetative period. The plant will stop wasting nutrients on the formation of leaves when it begins to prepare for a dormant period.

Before digging up callas, you need to prepare the plant. To do this, they stop watering it if the weather is dry, about 2-3 weeks before the expected harvest for the winter. This advice is relevant for the southern regions, where a dry climate in autumn is far from uncommon. Before digging, you need to cut the leaves of callas above the soil level by about 7-8 cm. After the first frost, the foliage has already dried up, and this operation is easy to carry out with ordinary scissors.

It is best to dig up calla lilies with a garden pitchfork. So there is less chance of damaging the delicate parts of the plant.

When digging up callas, it is advisable to leave enough long distance around their roots. Better play it safe and dig a hole larger diameter than to treat a plant injured with a shovel or pitchfork. After digging, you need to carefully remove the soil from its roots, trying not to damage them. You can wash off the remaining soil with running water under a tap or garden hose. Make sure the jet is not too strong. A large pressure of water can damage the “children” of callas that have not yet separated from an adult plant.

Drying callas

Having dug out calla lilies that you have grown yourself, you will most likely be surprised by their striking difference from the planting material that you purchased before planting in own garden. Now they are strong, large and beautiful specimens. Before you set aside the root tubers for drying, you need to make a thorough inspection of them.

Tubers with signs of decay should preferably be discarded. If this is a particularly valuable variety, and the damage is minor, you need to clean the damaged tissue to a healthy base. This is best done with a teaspoon or a sharp garden tool.

Damaged and cleaned tuber tissue must be disinfected with a solution of ordinary brilliant green or sprinkled with crushed coal. You can use activated charcoal for this purpose.

Rejected material must be disposed of, but in no case be placed in compost heap. Such actions can contribute to the spread of the disease to other plants. For drying root tubers at home, low cardboard or wooden boxes are best suited. You can use plastic fruit boxes lined with cardboard or old newspapers.

Conditions for high-quality drying of callas:

• dark and cool place;
• good air circulation;
• lack of sunlight;
• the temperature is not higher than 15-20⁰С.

The best premises can be a garage, a ventilated dry cellar or a basement, a barn. Boxes with calla rhizomes are best placed in one row. After a few days, it is necessary to completely remove the dry leaves, and after another week, the roots, which by this time will be removed very easily. When the roots are not removed, the plant may start growing at the wrong time, without going through a full dormant period.

It is not necessary to separate the "children" from the mother plant during this period. They have not yet fenced themselves off from it with a special film - there is a great danger of injuring the plant. It is rational to carry out the department of "children" in the winter. Then they ripen and can serve as a full-fledged planting material. If this happens, the site of damage is dried and again disinfected with brilliant green or coal. The drying period can take from two to three weeks - depending on the humidity of the surrounding air.

Bookmark callas for winter storage

So what do you need to prepare for the winter? First of all - suitable containers. The best option for this there will be thick paper bags or cardboard boxes with ventilation holes made. In the case of storing a large collection of various varieties, they must be signed in order not to be mistaken in the selection in the spring. colors when compiling a composition from calla. best material for this there will be a dense foil - the material does not rot and does not deteriorate.

The name of the variety can be written on the foil, squeezing out the letters with a regular pen or knitting needle. The tag is attached to the package or to the wall of the box.

The main condition for proper storage is the isolation of root tubers from each other, air circulation between them. In order to isolate the tubers from each other, a substrate is poured into a bag or into a box between the tubers, which can be used as:

• sawdust;
• vermiculite;
• shavings.

If a sick specimen gets into such a storage at home, then the insulation will reliably protect other tubers from rot.

Although high humidity not welcome, but shriveled and too dried tubers should be sprinkled with water from a spray bottle to prevent them from drying out.

The optimum temperature for storing calla root tubers is 5-7⁰С. Ideal Conditions enough to store them. dry room which has good ventilation. If this is a basement, then it should not be stored in it harvested crop. During storage, fruits and vegetables release moisture and ethylene gas. These factors provoke too early awakening of tubers, as well as their decay. If it is impossible to allocate a separate room, then you should at least try to equip a separate compartment in the basement with an exhaust hood or forced ventilation.

It is desirable that there is no lighting so as not to provoke the plants too much. early start vegetation. The rest period takes two months or more. How long does it take a plant to full recovery. All this time, you need to closely monitor their health, periodically examining the tubers.

wintering potted plant

When callas are grown as home plant They also need a rest period. To do this, the pot with the plant after flowering is moved to a cool and dark place in order to stimulate the end of the growing season. Watering the plant should also be reduced. You can dig up the tubers and process them using the above technology, or you can leave them to winter right in a pot or container.

We wake up callas with the advent of spring

To complete the winter the best term for the middle lane it will be the beginning of April, for the southern regions - the beginning of March. Calla lilies are taken out, carefully examined, treated with a solution of manganese or any fungicide from fungal diseases. If the "kids" were not separated from callas in winter, you can separate them now.

"Children" are not cut off from the mother plant, but broken off. The place of separation must be disinfected, treated with brilliant green, sprinkled with ash.

In order for these beautiful plants painlessly endured the period of winter dormancy, you need to properly dig them, dry them and ensure they are stored in a dry and cool place.

Callas are delicate, beautiful flowers that will be an excellent decoration for your landscape. suburban area. This plant is mostly grown in pots, but they can also be grown in the garden, in open ground. How do callas survive the winter? In order for frosts to pass without negative consequences, they need to be dug up, since temperatures below -2 degrees are contraindicated for them.

When to dig up callas

In the second half of September, when garden callas have already faded and they beautiful bedspreads drooped, and the leaves began to turn yellow, they must be dug out of the ground. And this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the tubers.

When digging up callas, it is advisable to leave a sufficiently large distance around their roots. It is better to play it safe and dig a hole of a larger diameter than to treat a plant injured with a shovel or pitchfork. After digging, you need to carefully remove the soil from its roots, trying not to damage them. You can wash off the remaining soil with running water under a tap or garden hose. Make sure the jet is not too strong. A large pressure of water can damage the “children” of callas, which have not yet separated from an adult plant.

How to dig up callas?

Before digging up callas, you need to prepare the plant. To do this, they stop watering it if the weather is dry, about 2-3 weeks before the expected harvest for the winter. This advice is relevant for the southern regions, where a dry climate in autumn is far from uncommon. Before digging, it is necessary to cut the leaves of callas above the soil level by about 7-8 cm. After the first frost, the leaves have already dried up, and this operation is easy to carry out with ordinary scissors.

Then the plant: ground part and tubers in the ground, put in a shallow cardboard box for about 14 days, so that it dries. During this time, all the nutrients from the leaves will pass into the tubers, so you can’t cut the leaves, much less cut them off. Leaves should be removed only when they are dry, and it will be easy, without effort, to separate them from the tuber so as not to damage it.

The roots should come off just as easily. Then gently clean them from the roots. The room where the excavated callas are kept should be dry and hot.

Further, the peeled calla tubers should be well inspected and checked for rotten spots on them. In the presence of dark spots rot must be removed. Do not use a sharp knife for this. Rot should not be cut off, but scraped off, and the most suitable tool for this is an ordinary teaspoon, or other sharp tool.

What to do with calla bulbs before storage?

So, the root tubers are rejected, all suspicious specimens must be thrown away (but not in the compost heap), they are best burned. In the fall, do you need to separate the children from the tubers? Not desirable. It is better to give them the opportunity to gain strength. After a month and a half, they will get stronger and separate from the mother bulb with a special film. That's when you should separate them.

Before storing calla bulbs, they must be disinfected with phytosporin or potassium permanganate solution by immersing them in it for 30 minutes. Next, the material is laid out to dry on a clean cloth, placing the bulbs in a cool, dark place. Drying lasts at least 10-14 days. If the humidity level in the room is above the norm, then the drying period is extended or the bulbs are transferred to a drier place.

Storage of callas in the basement or cellar

For storage in boxes, the leaves should be cut to a height of 8 cm, and then dried under a canopy with fresh air.

After that, wooden boxes are filled with peat mixed in equal proportions with sand and sawdust, the mixture is moistened and dried rhizomes are placed there. Store in a cellar or basement at a humidity of not more than 60% and a temperature of +5 to +8 degrees. Watering and inspection should be carried out at least once a month.

Storage of callas on the loggia

This method is suitable for those who grow garden callas in pots. In this case, when autumn comes, watering is gradually reduced, and after the complete death of the leaves, the containers with plants can be transferred to a glazed balcony or loggia, where they remain until spring.

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Storage of callas in the apartment

When there is no possibility of using other means of storage, you can try to save calla bulbs at home. To do this, a box with planting material must be placed in the coolest place, for example, near the balcony door.

Storing callas during dormancy in a pot

Before digging up the plant, cut off only dry leaves and flower stalks at the very root. Plant the pruned plant with an earthy clod in a pot. Storage temperature should be no higher than 12 - 15 degrees. It can be a cool veranda or an attic, a loggia. Water the flower periodically, about once or twice a month.

Calla can also be in a lighted room near the balcony door. Under such storage conditions, the buds will ripen very well, which will subsequently give good strong flower stalks. When spring comes, it is necessary to gradually increase the amount of watering so that the plant wakes up. Two weeks before planting in the ground, the plant is fed.

Not without reason, translated from Greek, the word "calla" means "beautiful." This showy flower will decorate the coast of the reservoir, but beginners do not always manage to grow it. After all, for this you need to know some subtleties. We will tell about them.

Many flower growers love calla lilies not only for their beauty, but also for the vanilla aroma that the flowers exude. By the way, in a non-flowering form, this plant is no less attractive due to its rather large and dense leaves. Often they have a variegated color.

Tuberous callas need warmth, so in the middle lane they are grown in open ground only from spring to autumn, and in winter the tubers are stored in conditions that are comfortable for the plant. In addition, calla can be grown all year round in a warm room, in a container. But mere compliance with the temperature regime is often not enough to enjoy the spectacular flowering of calla lilies. Let's see what difficulties beginner growers most often face and answer the most common questions.

1. Where is the best place to plant tuberous calla?

Callas prefer open sunny places or sparse partial shade. In order for the plants to bloom profusely, they are grown in moist and well-drained soil with a slightly acidic reaction. At the same time, in landing pit it is desirable to add peat, compost and bone meal. To prepare the ideal soil mixture for calla lilies, take turf and leaf ground, peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1:1.

Calla lilies do not bloom in the shade, so choose a well-lit area for it.

2. When to plant calla tubers?

Tubers are planted in the spring when the daytime air temperature rises above 13°C. Before planting, it is recommended to soak them for 15-30 minutes in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or in any fungicide (for example, in a 0.2% solution of Fundazole). This is necessary to prevent root rot.

3. How and at what depth should a calla tuber be planted?

The calla tuber is placed horizontally with the buds up (they look like tubercles) so that it is covered with a 4-5 cm layer of soil. With a deeper planting, the leaves and buds of the plant can rot, and if you leave the tuber on the soil surface, then in the heat it dry up.

The distance between plantings should be at least 30-50 cm so that the plants do not shade each other. Otherwise, they will stretch out, may get sick and stop blooming.

4. How to properly care for callas?

Calla is watered regularly throughout the growing season. And for the plant, top dressing with any phosphorus and potash fertilizers is useful (they are used in accordance with the instructions).

The soil for callas should be moist all the time, but not too wet.

The soil near the calla roots is mulched with peat, compost or bark. This technique helps retain moisture. With this care, tuberous calla lilies bloom 8-9 weeks after planting.

5. How to achieve lush flowering of callas?

If you are not going to propagate calla seeds, cut off fading inflorescences in a timely manner. Then the nutrients will be distributed correctly and help the plant form new flowers.

6. When and how to dig up calla tubers?

In autumn average temperature below 12 ° C, watering the plants is stopped. After the soil has dried, the tubers are dug up.

7. How to store tuberous calla?

First, the tubers are cleaned from the ground, after which they are immersed in a fungicide solution for 20-30 minutes. After this time, they are dried in the sun for 2-3 days.

Then the withered leaves are cut off, and the tubers are stored in a container with sawdust, peat or vermiculite. The container is placed in a dry room with an air temperature of 10-12 ° C. In winter, make sure that the tubers do not rot and dry out.

The calla tuber must be at least 7 cm in diameter. Otherwise, flowers are unlikely to appear from it in the first year.

8. What to do if the tubers sprouted ahead of time?

If the sprouts appeared in winter, the tubers are best planted in a small container with fresh, light soil and placed on a window located on the south side. After about 2 weeks, the first leaves will grow. If the light day is still short, the plants need to be illuminated. When the street is settled warm weather, callas are transplanted into open ground or into more spacious containers.

Please note: for calla lilies to bloom well, the tubers must be at rest for at least two months a year.

9. How to grow calla as a container culture?

For planting calla lilies, a pot with a diameter of 30-40 cm is used. Drainage from expanded clay or sand is placed on the bottom of the container, and a permeable nutrient soil mixture is poured on top. Tubers are planted to a depth of 3-5 cm (depending on their size) and watered abundantly. The pot is placed in a well-lit room with an air temperature of 13-18 ° C.

After the germination of the first leaves, the calla is transferred to a warmer place (with a daytime temperature of 22-25 ° C and a night temperature of at least 8 ° C). There should also be a lot of light here.

Moist soil and good lighting are necessary conditions for the appearance of calla sprouts

10. How to grow callas from seeds?

Seeds are sown superficially in a container with loose soil (for example, a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 4). An interval of about 8 cm is maintained between them. The container is placed in a well-lit place with an air temperature of at least 18 ° C. When the seedlings become crowded, they dive into separate pots. Callas grown from seeds bloom 2-3 years after sowing.

Do not forget that calla lilies are poisonous, especially its tubers. Therefore, plant in protective gloves and isolate the flower from small children and pets.

Calla, cala, or zantedeschia (Calla, Zantedeschia) is a genus of rhizomatous or tuberous plants. It is a showy perennial that blooms from June to September. A variety of varieties with flowers from white to yellow or maroon, almost black, can satisfy every taste. After several years of experiments, it became clear that, despite its African origin, it is not so difficult to grow it in Russian gardens - this is far from the most capricious exotic. Like dahlias, calla must be removed for the winter in a frost-free room, otherwise its requirements are quite modest - even a novice gardener can fulfill them. The plasticity of the culture allows it to be used as a heat-loving perennial for open ground, a potted culture for the home, and in industrial scale- for winter forcing for cutting.

Rhizome and tuber feces

Types and varieties of callas are divided into 2 groups: rhizomatous and tuberous.

Ethiopian rhizomatous calla (Calla aethiopica) is suitable for damp places. An excellent solitary plant with large white flowers. Tall: reaches a height of 1.2 m, creates a spectacular curtain. Prefers partial shade, where it “lights up” the space well. In nature, it grows on the banks of rivers. Gubit clay soils. It is appropriate in the coastal zone of reservoirs, in combination with aquatic plants.

Tuberous callas (Calla elliottiana, Calla rehmannii) do not require such moisture. They look interesting in parterre flower beds or as a bright spot in a mixborder. A good choice for the patio.

A large selection of varieties with colored bedspreads will allow you to create bright compositions in shaded places - tuberous callas, like rhizomes, prefer partial shade. Varieties of tuberous calla lilies tolerate sunny exposure, but may be slightly lower than counterparts growing in partial shade.

Choosing planting material

Depending on the type of calla, it has either a tuber or a tuber-like rhizome. The size of the tuber depends on age: each growing season it increases in volume. When choosing tubers when buying, pay attention to this. The larger they are, the more flower stalks such a plant can produce. By purchasing a tuber with a diameter of 7 cm or more, you can be sure that it will bloom in the year of planting. You also need to make sure that the selected instance is viable. The tuber should be dense, not have rotten places. Dry, shriveled specimens are discarded.

Except exotic calla flowers have attractive leaves, and their shape and color are different varieties variety. Choosing a variety, you will get not only flowers of a certain tone, but also attractive foliage. There are varieties with narrow green leaves and with wide arrow-shaped, plain and with a silver-white tap (the tap is not created by color, but by a thinner leaf plate in this place).

Planting and caring for callas

In late February - early March, we take out the tubers after winter storage, plant them in small, slightly over size tuber pots, put in a warm, bright place for germination, water. It is better to plant calla tubers in a light nutrient substrate with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Suitable, for example, a mixture of peat with river sand (4:1). We arrange the tubers so that the more uneven, bumpy part is facing up. Tubercles are buds with the rudiments of future leaves and inflorescences, and a “bouquet” of leaves with a peduncle comes out of each bud.

Before the appearance of sprouts, 2-3 weeks pass, during which time the callas build up the root system, and then the buds on the top of the tuber wake up. Plants bloom quickly. Within a month after the appearance of sprouts, as a rule, the first flowers open. It is necessary to make a reservation: what we call flowers in calla lilies is actually a colored blanket wrapped around a cylindrical inflorescence-cob (the flowers are located on it, and very small ones at that). Some varieties, such as 'Schwarzwalder' and 'Black Star' with black bedspreads, tend to put forward flower stalks faster, even without having time to fully unfold the leaves. Callas have an unusual feature: when unfolding, the veil

at first it has a paler or generally different shade from the varietal. So, in the ‘Mango’ variety, it is initially yellow, and after 5-7 days it acquires an orange-red hue characteristic of the variety. Many varieties tend to change color to green when flowering. To grow a tuber, it is worth cutting off the green flowers, preventing seeds from forming.

Since callas are planted annually in fresh soil mixture, there is no need for top dressing. If desired, you can feed with infusion of manure in a ratio of 1:10. In addition to top dressing, such a solution will acidify the substrate, creating more favorable growing conditions.

Digging up and storing callas

Calas do not overwinter in our climate in the open field. Like some other perennials (gladiolus, dahlias), they need to be dug up before the first frost (usually the 3rd decade of September). We do not cut the leaves and roots immediately, but dry them for 10-14 days so that the nutrients pass into the tubers and the roots dry out. Withered leaves and roots are removed very easily. Putting the tubers in storage optimum temperature storage +4…+ 10 °C). In urban apartments, calla tubers are usually kept in the refrigerator in the fruit compartment, after putting it in a paper bag or wrapping it in a newspaper and periodically checking that there is no rot. Ethiopian calla leaves do not completely die off. It is advisable to plant it after digging into a container and put it in a cool room without removing live leaves. If this is not possible, the leaves are cut off completely, the rhizomes are slightly dried (until the remains of the leaves dry) and stored in the same way as the tubers.

Reproduction of callas by division

The readiness for division in callas is clearly visible in the tuber. At first, the babies are tightly attached to the mother plant. As they mature, an isthmus forms between the baby and the main tuber. With age, its thickness decreases. When the baby reaches maturity, the isthmus breaks easily - at this time it can be separated and grown as an independent plant. Do not forcibly divide the plant, cut with a knife.

In this case, a wound surface is formed, and, as a rule, decay occurs. You can cut when the isthmus becomes no wider than 5-7 millimeters, and the wound must be treated with crushed coal.

Cultivation of callas - questions and answers

This year I did not have time to dig up calla tubers. Is it too late to do it in November?

Light frosts will not damage tubers buried at least 10 cm deep. The main thing is to bring them into the room immediately after digging, dry them for 5-7 days, remove the old roots and place them in storage. (I store in the basement in sawdust at a temperature of + 3 + 10 degrees.). By the way, once I didn’t have time to dig tubers for the winter at all. She covered them with sawdust, foliage. Surprisingly, some survived!

Is it possible to force calla tubers to actively share during the growing season?

I noticed that a less deep planting of tubers (by 4-5 cm) contributes to the fouling of their children. Probably, better warming stimulates the awakening and development of additional growth buds, while it is easier for young shoots to break out than from a standard depth of 10-12 cm. Young children are best left to winter on the mother tuber, and in spring they can be separated.

Is it possible to plant calla tubers if the buds do not wake up in April?

If at the same time the tubers look strong and healthy, they are planted immediately into the ground in pre-moistened planting holes. If the condition of the tubers is suspicious, it is better to plant them in clean sand, sprinkled no more than 1 cm on top, moderately moisten and place in a warm, bright place. Wait until the roots and rudiments of leaves appear, and then, when the threat of return frosts has passed, carefully transplant into open ground.

Left photo:

The young tuber is not ready for division (left) When the baby matures, an isthmus forms between it and the tuber (right)

Photo in the center:

Flowering of calla tuber purchased at the garden center in the first year after planting

Photo on the right:

When planting feces, position the tuber so that its uneven, bumpy part is facing up - this is where the kidneys are located.

THE MYSTERIOUS BEAUTY OF THE ETHIOPIC CALLA

Above the large green leaves, dazzling white elegant funnels of flowers on long peduncles seem to soar - this is how Calla Remani blooms. Its flowering usually occurs in the winter, because this plant comes from the tropics of the southern hemisphere.

But recently, gardeners have become more and more popular _ another species - Ethiopian calla.

The plant is not so tall, with flowers of various colors - from pale pink, red, yellow, crimson to dark purple, almost black. These unusually graceful, beautiful flowers will bring a touch of mysterious and unearthly beauty to the garden.

WHERE TO PLANT CALLAS?

Since these are very heat-loving plants, they need to be planted in a sunny place, but where there are no winds and drafts.

The soil should be rich in humus, slightly acidic, loose. It is useful to add peat, but to make fresh manure not worth it - a handful of rotted compost or humus is enough.

GROWING TUBS

Usually, callas have been sold in stores since February. The tubers purchased at this time should first be kept in the refrigerator, and when sprouts appear, transplanted into a pot in loose soil and placed on the window.

10 days before planting in the ground, plants should be hardened off, taking them out into the air - to the street or balcony.

IRRIGATION FEATURES

Landing is carried out in moist soil. At first (about two weeks), the plants do not need to be watered. The tubers will direct all their efforts to the growth of the root system and only then will they sprout.

When the first leaves begin to unfold, you can start watering, but very carefully, so that the water does not fall directly on the tubers - in a thin stream along the edges of the pot, by the way

When the plant has formed good leaves, you can water them regularly, but without flooding.

LANDING

The tubers are planted in the spring, when the daytime air temperature rises above 13 ° C and frost has ended, otherwise they can damage young plants. When planting grown callas, they must be removed from the pots carefully so as not to injure the root system.

Plants are planted at a shallow depth - no more than 10 cm, at a distance of 30-40 cm

Ethiopian calla varieties: Chameleon, Bolero, Captain Rosette, Little Susie, Elliot, Samur, Selina, Firelight, Black-eyed beauty. from each other. After planting, they are sprinkled with soil, not compacting too much, watered and refilled with earth or peat.

FEEDING

If you plant tubers in nutrient soil, into which complex mineral fertilizers are added immediately upon planting (according to the instructions), then during the summer season you can no longer feed the plants. But it is worth 2-3 times over the summer to pour them with a weak solution of citric or acetic acid (1 tablespoon per bucket of water).

Callas practically do not get sick and are not damaged by pests.

STORAGE

The digging of tubers begins before the onset of frost. Do this very carefully so as not to damage the root system. Then they are cleaned from the ground and washed, without removing the aerial parts.

2 weeks after digging, the tubers should be kept in a room with a temperature of 5 to 15 °C. During this time, the accumulated substances from the leaves will pass into the tubers. In winter, planting material is stored at a temperature of 3-5 ° C.

CALL VARIETIES - PHOTO

PLACE IN THE GARDEN

Best of all, these beautiful flowers will look near a decorative pond. Next to them, you can plant plants with beautiful foliage - Siberian irises with xiphoid, straight leaves or fern with delicate, openwork fronds.

Recently, the beautiful calla has won many hearts of flower growers. Previously, one could only meet snow-white callas, which are often called callas. A few years ago, bulbs of multi-colored callas appeared on sale. Today, botanists refer to them as the Zantedes Ethiopian species. They have multi-colored bedspread flowers that look great in bouquets. Blooming zantedeschias are spectacular both in flowerpots on the windowsill and in the garden.

Seven years ago, I decided to grow these callas in my garden. It turns out they are easy to get along with.

At first I bought already vegetating plants in pots, hoping that it would be easier to study their needs this way. But as the first experience showed, no "higher mathematics" was needed. Soon my house blossomed the most beautiful flower. Depending on the variety, even in the first year of flowering, the plant can produce a whole fountain of flowers per season. For example, varieties Black Pearl (black), Mango (orange-peach), Picasso (purple with cream edging), Samur (pink). Amethyst (lilac), Sunshine (yellow), Albomaculata (snow-white), Kapteyn Reno (dark red) - unpretentious and very abundantly blooming.

They are undemanding to the soil. For planting in a pot, you can use garden soil or universal soil. To make the plant feel more comfortable, I add vermicompost to the soil. In the future, I sprinkle it on top of the pot as needed. When planting, the main thing is not to deepen the corms: I plant them to a depth of no more than 5-6 cm. Plants should be watered moderately, they cannot stand overflow, but the soil should not be allowed to dry out completely. At the end of March, I plant corms in pots and put them on the windowsill for germination.

When the weather is warm outside, zantedeschias can be planted in open ground or taken out in pots to the garden. I choose a place for my callas in the shade or partial shade, where the sun is only in the evening. In June, my beauties bloom and constantly delight me with their unusual flowers throughout July and August. To keep the soil from drying out, I mulch the ground around the plants with hay, coconut fiber, bark, or any other mulch material I have on hand.

With the onset of cold weather, usually in October, a dormant period begins for the Zantedes. After that, I dig them out with a clod of earth, plant them in a pot, cut the leaves halfway and store them in a cellar or a cool place without watering until spring.

I propagate calla lilies in the spring by dividing the corms (if children have grown on it): I separate the baby from the adult bulb, and I must powder the cut with ash or cover it with brilliant green and dry it a little.

I wish you good luck and pleasant moments with these bright beauties!

CALLA - FORECASTING THE RAIN

About 20 years ago, I first saw callas.

And since then, I have not ceased to admire the beauty of these snow-white flowers, which have many names - richardia, Ethiopian zantedeschia and calla.

Every autumn in my collection there are up to 70 tubers. Over the years, 8 hybrid specimens have also appeared, but they are so fastidious that I hastened to get rid of them, distributing them to everyone.

She gave me the first bulbs of this plant back in school years my teacher. I brought home two small heads and put them in a regular 2 liter plastic bottle before cutting off the neck. Over the past time, I had a chance to study all the features of these wonderful flowers, so now I can share my experience of growing them myself.

When to plant in a flower bed?

Callas are one of the few plants that bloom during the winter. But over the years of practice and experimentation, I have learned to grow them in the open field, where they begin to spread their “sails” on the eve of summer.

I start planting plants in a flower bed at the end of April, when the earth warms up enough. Until the threat of night frosts blows over, I cover the plantings with a film. And immediately after disembarking, I water abundantly, and next time only after 1.5-2 weeks. When I see that the callas have successfully adapted, as evidenced by the new green leaves that have appeared on the plant, I feed them with a weak solution of saltpeter or combined mineral fertilizer. And I do this only once for the whole season: excessive feeding can lead to rotting of tubers and death of plants. All other waterings are carried out as needed.

Blooms for almost a month

3-4 weeks after planting, an adult calla blooms, but only if the climate favors it. Usually a biennial plant blooms, which produces a flower arrow with a wide asymmetric bell of white (yellow or red) color. This kind of "cover" well protects a narrow cob, consisting of densely seated nondescript flowers. Do not be surprised that the calla flower is not a “cover” at all, but a narrow cob-core.

A very beautiful and elegant flower pleases for about two weeks, and then changes color, becoming off-white. At this time, it can already be cut, but very carefully so as not to damage the new bud, which may appear to replace the one that has already dried up. An adult plant is able to give 2 (and sometimes 3) flowers in turn. In this case, the first one will be the highest, all subsequent ones will be quite low. After the last flower has faded, the calla begins a dormant period. At this time, it is advisable to reduce watering.

I leave 3-4 leaves on the calla, and carefully cut off the rest with a knife. This is enough for the normal development of calla lilies, because then a smaller amount of nutrients is required.

In open ground, callas bloom until mid-October, and if autumn is warm, then even longer. After the time comes to transplant the plants - I send the largest tubers separately to fairly large pots.

On a note

Calla lilies do not tolerate crowding, if this is neglected, they will slowly develop and get sick.

The roots of these plants are cord-like, extending from the succulent tuberous rhizome in all directions, and appear on the surface. Root bulging is the result of not planting deep enough. Therefore, when moving to a new place, it is best not to fill up the earth to the edges of the pot, and then gradually pour it in.

Myth debunked

Based on my own experience, I disproved the myth that the calla does not bloom when planted in a group of flowers. This is not true. An adult plant that has passed a dormant period and is not overfed with nitrogen will definitely bloom, no matter how many bulbs are in the same pot nearby. But it is advisable to separate the children during transplantation so as not to burden them with the presence of an adult plant. After that, the wounds should be sprinkled with crushed coal or ash. The soil for calla lilies should consist of 1 part of sod land and 2 parts of peat.

The main enemy of calla - spider mite, which most often appears when there are also pots with other houseplants next to the calla. It is possible to defeat the enemy if the plant is abundantly sprayed with a solution of any pest control agent. And since zantedeschia is a marsh plant, it also needs to be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

What about the weather?

Kala is not only beautiful, but also a useful plant that will tell you what the weather will be like. For example, before the rain, droplets of water appear on the tips of its leaves. On gloomy days, you have to wipe the window sill daily, as droplets from the leaves quickly turn into small puddles on it.

I have been a teacher for 12 years. And all this time, many students come running to my office during breaks to find out the weather forecast from calla lilies. Seeing these wonderful flowers for the first time, some of the guys also became interested in growing this beautiful plant. And in order for their experience to be successful, I gave my students little “babies” of calla lilies, who already feel great at home.

In the cut, this plant is also excellent. A long peduncle and decorative leaves allow you to create original flower arrangements which keep their freshness for an extremely long time and are pleasing to the eye. After 18 years of dating callas, I have had many others. indoor plants- some have long disappeared, while others are still there. But the calla has remained my flower companion and a kind of talisman in life.

If for some reason you were not able to see the flowering of such a wonderful plant, then try to follow these simple rules and you will surely be able to make sure that the calla is not an exotic whim, she just needs your attention and love.

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But on sale it is not she who is more common, but "colored" calla elliott And Remann , which form tubers and reach a height of 40-50 cm. They will be discussed in this article.

How to store calla tubers before planting

Until the beginning of March, calla tubers are stored in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. Wrap them in paper and place them in a plastic bag, poke a few holes in the bag for ventilation. Before buying, carefully inspect the planting material. should be dense, smooth, without visible damage, have live kidneys.

Planting calla tubers

In late February - early March, before planting in the ground, calla tubers are planted for germination. If the tubers are a little wilted, before planting, hold them for 2-3 days in a damp cloth until they become elastic again and the buds are clearly visible on the surface of the tubers.

Carefully inspect the tubers. If you notice damage or signs on them, which often appears during improper storage, clean the tuber with a sharp knife to a healthy tissue.

Lubricate the wound surface with brilliant green and let it dry.

To prevent fungal infections, before planting, treat calla tubers with any fungicide designed to treat tubers and bulbs. drugs are well suited for this purpose. Fundazol And Vitaros with systemic action. They not only destroy fungi on the surface of the tuber, but are also absorbed by the plant, providing it with long-term protection. Dry the tubers a little before planting.

Fill a small pot with nutrient earth mixture about 2/3 of the volume. The mixture should be slightly acidic. The composition of the soil for planting calla lilies: peat, humus or compost, leaf or garden soil, washed sand (2:1:1:0.5). Compact the soil in the pot and place the tuber on top.

Cover the tuber with the prepared soil mixture. The planting depth of the calla tuber is 1.5-2 cm from the top of the tuber to the soil surface.

Water carefully, being careful not to erode the soil. Put the pot in a bright place. Calla thrives well at daytime temperatures around +15...+20 °C. It does not matter if at night the temperature of the calla content drops to +13 ... +15 ° С, the difference between night and day temperatures is useful for the plant.

Calla roots grow in all directions. So that they do not come to the surface of the soil, as soon as the sprouts reach a height of 5-7 cm, add more soil to the pot with a layer of 2-3 cm. Keep the soil moderately moist. Tubers do not tolerate excessive watering and stagnant water, so drain the water from the pan immediately after watering. Feed once every 2 weeks with a solution of a complete mineral fertilizer for seedlings. A good result is brought by top dressing with liquid gummed fertilizer.

When the soil in the garden warms up to + 15 ° C and the threat of frost has passed, calla lilies can be planted in open ground. Calla doesn't like straight lines sun rays, so choose for her a place that is illuminated by the sun until noon. Prepare a 30x30 cm hole for planting, add half a bucket of humus to it and mix well.

Carefully remove the plant from the pot. Despite the fact that calla roots are powerful, they are very fragile and cannot be restored if damaged. Place an earth ball in the hole.

Gently cover the area around the roots with soil. When planting, it can be deepened again by 1.5-2 cm, so that when leaving it does not accidentally damage the surface roots.

Water, wait until the water is completely absorbed into the soil. After watering, mulch the plantings with peat to prevent the formation of a soil crust.

Callas: care during the season

Learn more about how to grow plants, . Also, please pay attention to the information block to the left of the text. The links in it lead to related articles.

Description: in the genus 8-9 species growing in tropical Africa. The following species is most common in culture.

Ethiopian Cantedescia- Z. aethiopica (L.) Spreng. On heavy clay and silty soils in moist, periodically drying meadows, along river banks in South Africa(Cape region). Photo of Polonskaya Svetlana Perennials with a thick rhizome, annually forming a large number of leaves and several flowering stems. Leaves with petioles 0.5-1 (1.5) m long. The leaf blade is light green, heart-shaped-sagittate with a blunt or slightly pointed apex, 15-45 cm long and 10-13 cm wide; the length of the anterior lobe is more than 1.5 times the width; lateral lobes rounded, 3-4 times shorter than anterior. Flowering stem about 1 m tall. Spathe 10-25 cm long, funnel-shaped, with a short tube at the base and with a pointed, somewhat elongated apex, white. The cob is cylindrical, yellow. Flowers unisexual, without perianth. In the lower part of the cob - pistillate flowers, above - the zone of anther flowers, which is 4 times longer than the pistillate part of the cob. Berry ovoid, yellowish. 2n=24. In culture since 1687. It is widely known under the name "calla" or "cantedeshia". On an industrial scale, it is grown for winter cutting in greenhouses with landing for the summer in ridges or greenhouses. For abundant flowering, plants need a dormant period (from mid-May to the end of July), so watering is greatly reduced; in July-August, they are transplanted into large pots or greenhouse soil into a nutrient mixture of clay soddy soil with humus, after which the watering is increased and the plants are regularly fertilized alternately with mineral and organic fertilizers. The air temperature in greenhouses in autumn should be 8-10°, with the beginning of flowering it is recommended to increase it to 12-15°. Numerous hybrid forms and varieties are usually cultivated; the most common variety is Perle von Stuttgart (Pearl von Stuttgart) with large inflorescences. In addition to Z. aethiopica, sometimes grown Z. elliottiana (Knight) English. with a yellow veil of inflorescence and Z. rehmanniiEnglish. with pink cover.

It is not surprising that amateur flower growers still cannot tame the capricious calla. Collecting information about the culture of these plants, we find contradictions even in the most authoritative publications on floriculture. What kind of riddles are these?

Over the two hundred years that calla is grown in Europe, many stereotypes have developed around the plant. Firstly, many believe that calla is a winter flower. Secondly, that she will feel really good either in the greenhouse or, with special care, in the apartment. Third, fourth, fifth... So many things that it seems easier to give up trying to make friends with this plant. But in fact, calla is generous, responsive and unpretentious. You just need to hear its natural rhythm and try not to "interrupt" the flower.

Photo Kozlova Natalia

While digging through magazines trying to figure out what I was doing wrong (calla lilies weren’t blooming and that’s it!), I came across photos of an amazing garden published in Flower Club magazine No. 12 last year. Calla lilies bloomed there - white "wings" hovered over a huge bush, about ten, no less. They obviously felt good in a corner near the water, closed from direct sunlight. Larisa Zorina, who created a magnificent garden on seven acres near Moscow, has been growing callas for five years. She agreed to talk about how she managed to lure the plant out of the greenhouse.

When will calla flowers bloom?
The first thing I had to deal with was the life cycle of a plant. They usually write about calla: "blooms from October to April." It just can't be! December, January and February in the homeland of calla lilies - in South Africa - this is summer, hot and sometimes dry. It is during this period that the calla falls into a state of rest. It awakens to life in the fall, when the air temperature does not exceed +20 +22 ° C, and it rains.

Therefore, the peak of calla blossoms falls on our summer (June-July-August) - respectively, on the mild South African winter. Why torture Living being, imitating "our" winter of "their" winter, knocking down the natural life schedule of a flower for half a year? Moreover, the return to the usual calla cycle opens before us completely new opportunity- decorate the garden with these wonderful plants. Not winter, but real. Feel free to release the calla into the wild!

Calla belongs to the aroid family. The plant has been renamed several times, alternately receiving the names Calla, Richardia, Zantedeschia. As a result, the plant is called differently - both calla and zantedeschia. Callas are divided into two groups. Larger plants, reaching a height of 150 cm and having a mostly white “flower”, are descended from Ethiopian calla lilies(Calla aethiopica). Another group includes varieties with a colored veil, descended from golden yellow calla elliott(C. elliottiana) and rose red Remani callas(C. rehmanii). "Colored" callas do not exceed 50 cm in height.

The “flower” of calla lilies is called the covering leaf (veil), in which the yellow “candle” of the inflorescence-cob is wrapped. Real calla flowers are small and inconspicuous, but extremely fragrant. Their scent is reminiscent of vanilla.

Zantedeschia "Pink Persuasion"	Zantedeschia "No. 14A"	Zantedeschia "No. 11"
Zantedeschia "No. 9"	Zantedeschia "Mango"	Zantedeschia "Yellow Hybrid"
Photo by Oleg Vasiliev

Do not flood the tubers, do not overdry the rhizomes!

The underground part of the calla is either not described in the literature at all, or it is somehow slurred about it. Whether the calla has tubers, or rhizomes, or "tuberous rhizomes." Everything turned out to be very simple. In some plants, those that are descended from Ethiopian calla, the underground part is a rhizome. Others, whose ancestors are Calla Eliotta and Calla Rehmann, have tubers. Both of them feel great in the garden.

Two groups of callas - "white" and "colored" - require different approach. "White" are moisture-loving, bloom longer, and do not shed their leaves for a dormant period. "Colored" are less demanding on soil and air moisture, they love bright diffused light and completely shed their leaves during the dormant period. Many acquiring a flowering calla do not know which group this plant belongs to. Guided general recommendations for flower care, lovers often pour tuberous callas. And when the plant sheds its leaves, they think that Calla has died and throw away the tuber along with the earthy clod. Other troubles happen with the Ethiopian calla. When a plant leaves the greenhouse for dry warm apartment, it “thinks” that summer has come and is gradually preparing for it - it stops blooming, droops and sheds leaves. We rush to save our jewel - we begin to water and spray abundantly. The result is sad: a confused calla does not rest and does not grow.

And yet - how to grow calla in the garden? I decided to ask Larisa Zorina for all the secrets.

Tuberous callas: dreams are colored.

In February - March, tubers of hybrids of callas Eliott and Rehmann go on sale. Can we really create the same beauty in our garden that is depicted in the photographs attached to bags of tubers?
- If you choose the right tuber and "wake" it in time, then everything will work out.

Mozart
Photo by Andrey Ganov

And what should be the “correct” tuber and when should it be “awakened”?
- The tuber should not be sluggish and shriveled. The larger the tuber, the more likely it is that the calla will bloom this year. Do not rush to plant a tuber. If you bought it in February - March, wrap it in a napkin and put it in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. In April, when night frosts weaken, it's time to wake up the tuber. Please note that before planting in open ground, the plant must be provided with sufficient lighting and a difference between day and night temperatures. Then the aerial part will form correctly - the petioles of the leaves will be short, elastic and thick. It is very good to put a pot with a tuber on covered balcony or, if you go to the country in the spring, to the greenhouse. When the threat of frost has passed, it will be possible to plant calla lilies in open ground.

Well, around mid-April, we took the tuber out of the refrigerator. How to plant it correctly?
- The volume of the pot should be minimal. It is not worth planting callas deep. It is enough to sprinkle them with two centimeters of earth. During landing in open ground, they can be buried a little more. Callas love slightly acidic soil, so a mixture of peat, humus, leafy soil and sand (1: 1: 1: 0.5) is suitable for them. Once the soil is dry, it's time to water. Do not plant tuberous callas in a swamp. Although they are moisture-loving, they prefer to grow near water, and not in water.

Do I need to feed callas, and if so, with what?
- You can dilute mullein 1:10, but you can use any liquid fertilizer once a week. I have one secret; plants respond well to soil acidification. Even battery acid is suitable for preparing a watering solution. I dilute a spoonful of acid in a bucket of water and sing callas with this “cocktail” three times a summer.

How long do tuberous callas bloom?
Until the beginning of October. Each flower retains its decorative effect for about one and a half months. It could stand longer, but I cut it off after the cover leaf turns green so that seeds do not begin to form. Thus, I stimulate the growth of the tuber.

How to know that it's time for callas to rest?
- Look at the weather. Before frosts, it is necessary to dig up the plant, wash the tubers and put them in a dry, dark pantry. Do not cut the leaves, let the tubers take the last nutrients from them. After a week and a half, the leaves will be easy to separate. After that, completely cut off the roots. Do not separate the baby nodules from the mother tuber, let the kids grow up a little. Before transporting to the apartment, sprinkle the calla tubers with chopped charcoal. It will dry and disinfect them at the same time. Store the tubers in the refrigerator, in the vegetable compartment. Calla lilies will have a good rest in a cellar or a closed balcony, with a temperature of + 3 + 5 ° C. At a higher temperature, the tubers will germinate. ( Note EDSR: without a dormant period, callas do not bloom).

I read that calla lilies do not tolerate the midday sun and dry air.
- I have calla lilies near the water. The sun illuminates them until noon, and then leaves. The cold spray of a miniature waterfall creates the necessary moisture.

It is often written that in order to stimulate flowering, young growth must be removed along the periphery of the bush. Is this true?
- I do not do that. My callas grow in a lush bush and at the same time bloom wonderfully.