The capabilities of the grinder can be expanded not only through various nozzles, but also by installing it on special home-made devices. As a result, you can get a cutting machine, with which it becomes possible to accurately cut metal blanks at any angle. In addition, the grinder can be installed on a carriage, and the resulting machine can be used for cutting sheet steel.

In order to understand how to make a cutting machine out of an angle grinder (angle grinder), you can look at various drawings on the Internet. But they will not help much, since all the dimensions of the parts will still have to be selected based on the size of the grinder you have. Options for the execution of devices can be both simple and more complex, requiring the ability to handle a welding machine.

Option 1

To make this device for the grinder, you will need welder skills. So, you need to do the following.

First, cut 2 small pieces from the corner (50x50 mm). Their size is selected based on the dimensions of the gearbox block of your angle grinder.

Next, drill holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm and screw the corners to the angle grinder, as shown in the next photo. If you do not have suitable bolts, then you can use threaded studs M14. Just be careful that the bolts are not too long. Otherwise, in some models of angle grinders, they can cling to the impeller located in the gearbox housing.

Without removing the corners from the grinder, grab them by welding. After that, the corners can be removed and scalded well.

Clean the welds with a grinder grinder.

Then you need to make rotating arm support to which the machine will be attached. To do this, select 2 pipes of such diameters that one can easily enter the other without much effort.

For a more accurate cut, masking tape can be glued to the tubes and draw a line on it.

Then, turning the tube, carefully cut it with an angle grinder. A piece of pipe of a smaller diameter should be shorter by 20 mm (thickness of 2 bearings) - it will serve as a spacer.

Choose 2 bearings suitable for its inner diameter for a thicker pipe. After that, insert a thin tube into a thick one and press the bearings on both sides.

Then insert the stud into the bearings. Be sure to put a washer in front of the nut.

When the swivel mechanism is ready, you need to weld a small piece of the corner to it.

The next step is to swivel stand from the same corner 50x50 mm. To make the segments the same length, the corners can be pulled together with a clamp and cut off.

Also, without unwinding the clamp, they can be drilled immediately.

Attach the drilled corners to the prefabricated swivel block with nuts.

Weld a longer corner to this rack, as shown in the following photos.

Now you need to decide on lever length, on which the angle grinder will be fixed. This is done by selection, based on the dimensions of your grinder. You can lay out the details on the table and calculate the approximate dimensions of the lever, which is best made from 2 pieces of a square profile pipe 20x20 mm.

Pipes must also be clamped with a clamp and cut to the same size.

After all the parts are ready, they can be welded together, as shown in the following photos.

At the next stage, you can attach the angle grinder to the finished structure and check again what came of it.

The ready-made pendulum mechanism for the grinder is easy to install on any flat surface, for example, on the workbench. Also, this design can be installed on a table specially made for it. For a more rigid fastening of the mechanism, small pieces of corners can be welded on both sides of the long corner, and holes drilled in them.

In the following photos you can see how the finished fixture for angle grinders is fixed on the table (in this case, a metal frame is used).

It is very important to set a right angle between the plane of the cutting disc and the plane of the table. Put the square on the table and move it to the abrasive wheel mounted on the angle grinder. If initially you managed to weld the fixture so that the angle between the planes was 90 degrees, then that's good. If you notice a deviation from a right angle in one direction or another, then you can correct the situation with a crowbar or a long profile pipe, for example, 60x20 mm.

To prevent the part from moving when cutting, a corner can be screwed onto the table, which will serve as an emphasis. Also, for an accurate cut, the table can be easily improved with a simple vice made of a nut welded to it and a stud of the required length screwed into it.

Next, you need make a protective cover. It is done taking into account the maximum diameter of the cutting disc, which is permissible to put on a specific model of angle grinder. To make it easier to determine the dimensions of the casing and places for attaching it, you can first make a template, for example, from a piece of cardboard.

In this case, the casing will also serve as a limiter for the cutting tool, which does not allow it to go deep into the table too much during the processing of the part.

It will not be superfluous if for a lever with a grinder attached to it make a spring. In this case, this is easy to do: insert a smaller tube from the back of the rod and attach a spring to it, as shown in the following photo.

On this, the manufacture of a cutting machine with your own hands, in which an angle grinder is used as a drive, can be considered complete.

Option 2

Another version of the fixture for the grinder, with which it will be possible to cut metal blanks, is done as follows.

Thus, a simple cutting machine was obtained. To give additional rigidity to the attachment of the device to the lever, you can use clamps, after laying a wooden block between the angle grinder body and the pipe, for example.

For precise cutting, so that the workpiece does not move, you will need to screw the corner to the table.

For a little grinder a similar version of the device is also suitable, only the angle grinder will be attached to a metal strip: on the one hand, with a bolt to the angle grinder itself, and on the other, with a clamp.

For a powerful angle grinder the fixture is made according to the same principle, but from profiles of a larger size than in the figures above.

It is not necessary to use dumbbells as a counterweight. All you have to do is find the right spring.

Option 3

This fixture option is the simplest for making your own. It is made without a traditional stand (rack) for a rotary unit. All you need is one door canopy, a metal strip and a rubber band (you can use a rubber band from a hand expander).

The construction is done as follows:

• in the metal strip, on one side, drill holes for the door canopy, and on the other, for the bolt with which the strip will be attached to the grinder;
• screw the angle grinder and the canopy to the strip;
• screw the canopy to the table;
• fasten one end of the elastic to the edge of the table, and the other to the holder (handle) of the angle grinder.

In just a few minutes you will receive a high-quality cutting machine. This device is also mobile, because it can be carried with you in a tool case, and, if necessary, mounted on any flat surface.

When installing this fixture, do not forget to fix a corner on the table to rest the workpiece in it.

Cutting sheet hoist with angle grinder

To cut sheet metal, you will need to purchase special carriage, which moves along the guide (profile square pipe).

But as practice shows, the cost of a good carriage is high (more than $ 100), so you can make it yourself. Since this process is quite difficult to describe, you can understand the manufacturing technology of this slider from this video. With the help of the device, you can cut not only steel, but also ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware.

Please note that when cutting ceramics, a lot of dust is generated. Therefore, it is recommended to adapt a dust collector with a nozzle for a vacuum cleaner to the casing of the angle grinder.

How to make a homemade dust collector

The simplest dust collector for angle grinders can be made from a plastic bottle from motor oil.

The nozzle is made as follows.

After these simple steps, you can use the grinder to process materials, the cutting of which creates a lot of dust.

Currently, manual work is gradually changing its meaning. If earlier a product made with a hand tool was considered to be handmade, now a truly “manual” tool is being replaced by an electric tool, although at the same time it is also “manual” (tamed :))). We will talk about a device that should slightly relieve the hands of the master.

A lot of different tools have been invented, special, high-quality, thoughtful. Of course, it is correct to use a tool specially made for a particular type of work. But not everyone can afford it, so “multi-tools” are held in high esteem by us. So, actually, what are we talking about. For sanding wood, I use a grinder with a Velcro circle, on which various kinds of emery are glued. It is convenient for relatively large pieces of wood, and for small products I use a board with glued sandpaper. But laziness is the engine of progress. I have long wanted to make some prefix to the grinder for the mechanization of the processing of small parts. I was going to long, but finally gathered. Looking ahead, I will say that I spent 40 minutes with a smoke break for all the work.

For high-quality processing, emphasis is needed, otherwise it will not work out exactly. And as always, I just got in the mood to do something, I remembered that I gave the welding machine to a friend for temporary use. But as they say, a bad dancer always lacks a welding machine, so he did everything the old fashioned way, without using welding. For the manufacture of the console, I used ordinary metal waste - a corner and a square pipe. And not waste - an M8 stud and, accordingly, nuts and washers.

We try on the existing piece of the corner and mark the places for the holes. One hole for attaching the structure to the body of the grinder, the second for attaching the thrust table. The whole structure will be fastened through a stud screwed into the factory place for attaching the handle.

The second oval-shaped hole for the possibility of adjusting the gap between the grinding disc and the stop table. I used a 30x30 square tube as a support table. Any square or rectangular tube will do. If then a welder was at hand, then I would take a piece of a corner and weld a hairpin to it, otherwise I would have to use a pipe, then it would be clear why the pipe.

Cut the studs to the desired length. We estimate the length in place. We stock up on M8 nuts with washers. The use of lock nuts is a must! Vibration and all. Here, in principle, that's all, we collect the structure together. Everything is visible in the photo.

The machine is fixed in a vice. You don’t have to worry about the thread, in the place where it is clamped in a vise, it is not needed there. The photo below shows the gap between the disc and the table, the newer the Velcro disc, the smaller the gap can be set.

And now WARNING!

1. For this design, use an angle grinder only with a speed controller, setting the speed to a minimum!
2. During operation, the machine is not in the plane of the rotating disk!
3. Use personal protective equipment!
4. Do not use abrasive and steel cutting discs for metal or wood!
5. Only use sanding discs at minimum speed!

After testing, I slightly finalized the design by adding another bolt for more confident clamping in a vise.

Well, a small video of work on this impromptu machine.

I don't want an Oscar!

TOP 6 drawings will help you make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands without errors and extra costs. Answers to frequently asked questions, recommendations.

TEST:

Is it possible to make a homemade miter saw from angle grinders: a test with answers based on the materials presented

1. What are the emergency stop switches?

a) manual;

b) hand and foot.

1. What angle grinders are suitable for creating a cutting machine?

a) pneumatic and electric;

b) rechargeable.

1. The minimum power of the electric motor of the grinder for the cutting machine from the grinder:

1. What machines can be made on the basis of angle grinders?

a) trimming, cutting;

b) grinding, milling, grinding.

1. Where can I place a grinder in a cutting machine?

a) above the tabletop;

b) under the tabletop.

1. The correct option is b). Foot switches are more convenient as they actuate quickly.
2. Theoretically, there will be enough power in all three options. In practice, apply a) - electric and pneumatic models. The battery for the stationary machine is not needed. For a pneumatic drive, you will have to purchase a compressor of the appropriate capacity.
3. 900W or more. Correction is done if the processing of workpieces from relatively soft materials is expected, or at high speed.
4. Both options are correct. A powerful grinder is suitable for creating various household and semi-professional machines.
5. There are two mounting options available. Experts prefer the top.

Bulgarian with electric drive perform many different work tasks. To reduce labor costs with a simultaneous increase in accuracy, it is used as the basis for the machine.

"Bulgarian"- the common name for an angle grinder (angle grinder). By changing the disk, this versatile machine is converted for cutting, performing other work operations.

Bulgarian

How to make a cutting machine step by step with drawings: 4 arguments in favor of the project

In order not to doubt the correctness of the decision made, study the following facts:

1. without secure fastening, the workpieces vibrate, increasing the risk of damage to the disk;
2. a heavy tool is difficult to manipulate with high accuracy while maintaining perpendicularity incision;
3. difficulties increase when processing thick products, when creating a large batch of parts of the same type;
4. When both hands are occupied, the likelihood of injury increases significantly.

A high-quality machine is necessary to solve the marked tasks, improve productivity. It is created as follows algorithm:

• specify the purpose, scope of work;
• study the drawings of factory analogues and homemade products, choose the appropriate option;
• compose a set of design documentation with a list of necessary purchases;
• perform assembly according to the approved plan with a performance check.

TOP 6 drawings with explanations for the manufacture of a homemade metal edger

Model circular saw it is not difficult to create if you fix the grinder under the desktop with a slot. It is necessary to think over a system of guides for high accuracy in moving workpieces.

Look at the picture number 1, what a typical one looks like edger. Here, the angle grinder is fixed on a movable hinge, which somewhat complicates the design. This scheme has several advantages:

• simple and reliable fastening of the workpiece;
• significant weight of the upper part will help to use less effort when cutting blanks;
• if necessary, a hand-held electric tool is dismantled to perform work operations in the normal mode.

Such a power frame is assembled from standard steel corners, pipes with a square section. Welded joints are stronger. But it is also acceptable to create a prefabricated structure using screws and nuts.

Such a project can be used as an example for the manufacture of a high-quality metal edger. Wheels make it easy to move severe products.

Note! In other racks, you need to install screw supports. With their help, compensate for uneven flooring.

Look at the picture for an example of a machine for processing wood. This technique is suitable for cutting large workpieces. It is necessary to choose a grinder of sufficient power so that it is enough to work with large diameter discs. On the reverse arm of the lever (instead of an electric motor, as in the drawing), a load is fixed. The weight and place of attachment are selected in accordance with personal requirements and features of a particular design.

This machine can be converted to be fixed at the bottom angle grinder If longitudinal sawing of wood is supposed, such an engineering solution will be optimal.

Look at Picture No. 6. You can use it to make a set of drawings with your own hands. It is recommended to pay attention to spring, which raises the work node to its original state. A rotary table with measuring fixtures will help you create a machine with increased tolerance requirements.

In the manufacture of this part of the machine, a thick metal. This solution increases the cost and weight, but prolongs the service life, increases reliability, improves the fastening of hinged elements and the accuracy of processing.

Converting a grinder into a machine step by step: 10 assembly steps, an electrical diagram for the drawings

To create a machine yourself, you must select design, appropriate to existing skills and capabilities. The easiest way is to assemble the machine from blanks created according to the drawings in a specialized metalworking workshop. Otherwise, you will have to master welding technology and purchase the necessary equipment.

Below is a step-by-step self-assembly algorithm with helpful comments:

1. After the project parameters are approved, the necessary materials, blanks, tools and interchangeable nozzles are purchased. The shopping list is determined on the basis of the prepared set of design documentation. Compliance with current standards in this case is not required. However, all important data must be specified, as in the examples above.
2. Cut blanks for power frame. The table is made of sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm.
3. A transverse shaft is attached to the pendulum lever by welding. When creating this node, the perpendicularity of the parts is carefully controlled.
4. For fastening angle grinder suitable capture in the form of the letter "P". In its side parts make a hole for the bolts. With these fasteners, the hand tool is rigidly attached to the frame. Choose a sufficiently strong part of the body of the grinder.
5. Additional fixation is provided with a metal clamp. All of these mounts are made rigid to improve accuracy.
6. Swivel bearings are pressed in. Instead of standard factory-made units, thick-walled steel pipes of suitable inner diameter are used.
7. The assemblies are fixed on the axis of both sides.
8. The pendulum is attached to the platform by welding. In order not to damage the bearings, it is recommended to limit the temperature increase. For cooling, use a cloth soaked in water.
9. Weld a block with a mount for a grinder. Installed in place angle grinder, protective devices, return spring.
10. They clarify the build quality, the reliability of the fasteners, the functionality of the pendulum. Connect the machine, check the performance, first at idle and then in the operating mode. The groove in the table is cut with a disc of the appropriate width.

Look at Picture No. 8. Here is the wiring diagram for the drawings, which improves the protection of the equipment from overheating. It will also come in handy for a quick emergency shutdowns. One or more buttons to break the corresponding circuit are installed in a convenient place on the machine body. Foot operated switches are also used.

Strengthening the machine and other means of protecting the operator

Reliable power frame is the basis of security. In addition, moving units are closed, preventing access of unauthorized persons to the working area. In the process of processing parts, goggles, masks, gloves, and other personal protective equipment are used.

In addition to reliable strengthening of the machine for protection the operator is a certain location of the grinder. For safety and to prevent damage to clothing, it is installed so that a sheaf of sparks during operation is directed in the opposite direction from the person.

All 5 options for home-made machines from a grinder for various purposes

The drive of tools of this category differs in high power. A high-quality grinder is small in size, durable, resistant to high workloads. Some models are adjustable. Modern angle grinder in the basic configuration are equipped with protection against overheating. Such products are a good basis for the manufacture of home-made machines for various functional purposes.

Bulgarian lathe

This is where the standard design comes into play. The only great knot- a device for transferring forces to the spindle. The gearbox is needed to regulate the speed and torque in the appropriate range.

Homemade do-it-yourself milling machine for wood, other types of equipment

Note! This device can be attached to the motor shaft after dismantling the standard gearbox.

Look at Picture #12 showing how you can assemble a full-fledged sawing / circular machine from improvised means in 15-20 minutes. With its help, it is easier to ensure accurate processing of wooden blanks compared to using hand tools.

3 other machines: grinder, chain sharpener and brick cutter

Here, potentially hazardous areas are protected from damage by sparks using foil strips. Temporary, but inexpensive and fast solution practical task.

VERY DANGEROUS! In any case, we must not forget about the intended purpose of the equipment. If you are making a homemade metal cutting machine, you should consider strengthening the structure. The processing of plastic and wooden blanks is performed with less stress.

It’s also important to know: 4 nuances for choosing the right angle grinder suitable for a sawing or circulating machine

angle grinder produced with drive power from 340 W to 2.5 kW. To increase the torque on the working shaft, gearboxes and an increase in speed up to 10-12 thousand per minute are used. Select a model suitable for a particular type of machine. To eliminate rapid wear, experts suggest making a small margin and using equipment with an engine of 0.9 kW or more.

The number of handles and special devices for performing manual operations in this case do not matter. However, the following Components and characteristics:

• protection of the motor from dust;
• smooth speed control with automatic maintenance of the set level;
• smooth start;
• built-in overload protection.

Do-it-yourself cutting machine for metal and wood from a grinder

We make a metal cutting machine using high-quality equipment: TOP 3 manufacturers of angle grinders

This list contains brands whose equipment has received high marks from ordinary users and professionals:

• Bosch. It is famous for its reliability, good thoughtfulness of small design elements. A significant limitation is the high cost even in the basic configuration.
• Hitachi initially they were expensive. But nowadays, part of the production has been moved to China, which has reduced costs. In some models, there is no automatic stabilization of revolutions under load.
• Makita— Reasonable combination of price and quality. All new high power models are equipped with effective overload protection, which extends the real life.

How to avoid 4 errors during operation, grinding / surface grinding and other machines

In order for the machine to perform its functions the following simple rules must be observed:

• Do not increase loads more than planned values.
• Use the correct replacement tips as provided in the manufacturer's official instructions.
• Remove dirt in a timely manner so as not to impair the air cooling mechanism.
• Maintain the ideal state of electrical insulation, the functionality of protective devices.

How to make a very accurate machine with increased tolerance requirements and other answers to 5 frequently asked questions

1. How to make a machine with increased tolerance requirements?

Dampers to reduce noise and reduce vibrations are not used in angle grinder attachment points, so as not to degrade accuracy. All moving parts are designed to maintain geometry over a long service life.

1. What material is the platform made of?

Processing wood is easier than metal, so the table and many other details can be made from this material.

1. Is it necessary to use an angle grinder of 1.5 kW or more?

Increasing power consumption is not always justified. An exact calculation is made taking into account the required number of revolutions / torque.

1. What parts can be damaged by increasing the frequency of the working shaft?

Too high a processing speed can damage polymer and other workpieces.

1. Do I need to wear safety goggles when processing workpieces with a machine?

For safe work, it is imperative to use personal protective equipment even when directing the flow of sparks “away from you”.

The belt sander is a very useful machine in the workshop. In fact, this is an electric file. With the help of this item it is very convenient to grind various objects and materials. Such machines are especially popular in the manufacture of knives. The cost of such machines is still quite high, so it makes sense to think about how to assemble it yourself. This can be done not difficult and relatively cheap, but the power of this machine is quite enough for various household tasks.

As the main power element, the author decided to use a small grinder. They are relatively inexpensive, and almost everyone has them. All you need is to assemble the frame for the grinder, as well as make and install wheels for the sanding belt. All these elements are assembled from practically waste materials. So, for example, driven wheels are made of bearings, on which a piece of hose or something similar is pulled. It's fast, simple, cheap and practical. As for the drive shaft, then the author decided to use a footrest for a bicycle, it is the best suited for these purposes. So, let's take a closer look at how to make such a machine.

Materials and tools used

Step one. Making a bracket for a grinder
First of all, we will make a bracket for the grinder. In this regard, everything is individual, since in their form all angle grinders are different. The bracket is made of steel plates, which are bent in a vise in the form of a "P" and another. Further, all these parts are reliably welded to each other. The essence of the bracket is that it securely holds the angle grinder. Among other things, adjusting bolts are installed on the bracket. When they are twisted or unscrewed, the angle of the drive wheel changes, as a result, you can center the belt. The bracket itself is hinged to the frame, and it is also spring-loaded so that the belt has the desired tension.

Step two. Manufacture of driven wheels
In total, the design provides for two driven wheels. They are made very simply, you will have the necessary bearings, as well as bolts of the appropriate length and diameter. We put several bearings on the bolt and fix this block with a bearing nut. Now just pull a piece of hose or something similar over the bearings. That's it, we got a great grinder wheel!

Step three. Making a work plane
The working plane is that part of the structure on which you will rely on the product when working. For its manufacture you will need sheet steel. We make three parts, and then weld them together. Outside, the welds must be cleaned, otherwise the belt will quickly fail.

We drill holes at the ends of the part, now you can install the driven wheels in their places!

Step four. We fix all the components on the base
As a base, take a piece of square pipe. We drill a through hole in it and hinge the bracket with a grinder using a bolt and nuts. After that, we fix the work plane, for its fastening we will need another piece of a square pipe. Everything is carefully measured and well welded.

Step five. Drive wheel installation
As a drive wheel, the author decided to use a footrest for a bicycle. Such parts are installed on the axle of the bicycle to perform various tricks. We need a footrest that has a rubber coating on top. It is possible that you will need to modify this part a little by cutting off the excess and reaming the hole. At the end, we fasten the part to the grinder shaft using a standard nut. That's all, we got a great drive wheel.

Next, we install a spring between the base and the bracket, it will be needed in order to tension the belt. Once this is done, install the sanding belt. Now the machine can even be tested, although it has not yet been completed. The author demonstrates the operation of the device, grinding a wrench on the machine, the sparks are quite thick.

Step six. The final stage of assembly
Finally, weld a support to the base, this will be a leg that will not allow the machine to tip over during operation. For these purposes, a piece of steel square pipe is perfect. If desired, rubber feet can be glued to it.

It will be mandatory to install a “working table” on the machine, you will rest against this element when grinding. For these purposes, it will be quite enough to weld a piece of steel plate in the right place.
That's all, the machine is ready! In conclusion, it is highly desirable to paint it so that the metal does not rust.

Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a cutting machine out of an angle grinder that I didn’t need. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Whoever did this knows that it is quite difficult to cut off an exactly profile pipe with a grinder. It takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut through one edge. And anyway, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, when welding, the thin metal of the wall in this place starts to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.

I had an angle grinder that I didn't need "DWT ws-180s". They gave it to me for free due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.

But it turned out that I did not need such a grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but, for some reason, the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. Therefore, it hung unclaimed in my workshop for several years - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will come in handy for concrete work, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230 ...

And so the idea came to my mind to buy a frame for it and make a cutting stationary machine. But having considered the purchased options, I found that, for the most part, they do not have sufficient rigidity, and hence accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.

What I needed:
1. Actually angle grinder.
2. Steel corner 50 to 50 and 40 to 40.
3. Cut of a water pipe DU32-3.5
4. Cut water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. Stud M14.
8. Profile pipes 15 to 15, 20 to 20, 25 to 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Sheet scraps.

So, for starters, I decided to assemble the grinder mount. In purchased versions, designed for various angle grinders, fastening is carried out with three long bolts with lock nuts, which affects the rigidity. In addition, having fixed the angle grinder at three points, it has to be placed vertically, which “steals” the depth of cut a little - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly extended in front. And therefore, I decided to fix it horizontally, at two points, with a snug fit of the frame to the gearbox .. The disadvantage of such a mount is that it fits only one angle grinder model. But I decided to neglect this, considering that if I had to replace the grinder, then I would just weld a new mount.))))
I cut out two pieces of the 50 corner:

I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:

And screwed to the gearbox, using the attachment points of the handle:

At the same time, I did not find M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to twist and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:

After that, right on the grinder, I grabbed the corners to each other by welding, then removed and boiled tightly:

Next, I started making the carriage. To do this, I needed a piece of thick-walled pipe 32-ki. Since it was necessary to cut evenly, and there was no cutting machine at hand yet, I used a wide masking tape as a marking:

After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:

nested one inside the other:

Scored on both sides of the 202nd bearing:

And pulled it off with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:

Then he cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, I burned the outer pipe with an electrode so as to weld it with the inner one:

Now we need to make racks for mounting the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I pulled them together with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:

Next, I assembled and welded the entire mounting structure of the carriage:

I made the rods on which it will be attached to the angle grinder carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. I calculated their optimal length empirically, laying out the scheme of the future machine from pipes and bars:

It remains to cut and weld everything together:

At this stage, I "tried on" the grinder:

Now it's the turn of the table. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, 60 by 60 cm in size:

I fixed the whole structure on this sheet:

From a profile pipe 15 by 15 I made two square frames, 50 by 50 cm in size. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bend points, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth one.

After that, I welded vertical racks from the same pipe in the corners, and fixed my design on the resulting parallelepiped.

At this stage, it became necessary to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I said, I eliminated all adjustments in favor of the rigidity (read: precision) of the design. My plan was to simply bend the rods, and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two cutters ... (Whoo! What an optimist I am!)))). Then crowbar! (The result is the same) ..... I realized that I would not have to strengthen the structure !! Two thick-walled profile pipes of small length, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, give incredible rigidity! ...

I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) Pipe between them, with a section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, between the rods is just 60 mm.

So, the vertical is exposed! Now cut through the table:

After that, I expanded and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installation, for example, a circle on a tree.)

By the way ... Initially, I had the idea to make a "2 in 1". That is, to provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down, in order to obtain a circular! And I even started to embody it. For example, I boiled, melted and cleaned the heads of all the fixing bolts on the back side to get a smooth circular table:

For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the mounting bolts with which the table is attached to the "parallelepiped" ... But the euphoria from the fact that "I came up with cool" passed, and I realized that I was just "led" and did not pursue practicality , but for "it turned out great".))))))

In fact, I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! Because I have a circular. And she, in any case, is better than made from a grinder! In addition, when working with a circular saw with a tree, it is good to put this machine next to a circle on wood in order to trim. Instead of flipping the table for every board...
In general, I discarded this stupid idea ....
..
Next, I proceeded to the construction of an emphasis for the workpiece. I attached a square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and fixed a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.

After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, applying a 45 degree square this time, I drilled a hole in the table.

I forgot to take a picture, but here, I think, it’s clear .... Now, in order to cut off at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and fix it in another hole.

Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut off only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut a piece of pipe 20 by 20.

I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one nut long, connecting:

Boiled her.

And he processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:

Then I made more, where it was not enough, and processed it again. (not photographed).
Then I cut out a piece of the 25th pipe (the 20th pipe fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a strip of strip across it so that it could be fixed to the table by drilling holes. This will be the guide:

At the edge of the hairpin, I made a selection and made a handwheel there.

Further, on the edge of the table I fixed a corner with a hole, and assembled a vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed all this through the thrust corner, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you will understand from the photo:

I made the handle of the handwheel from a furniture bolt, putting a metal tube on it.

At the end he made a wide emphasis. And here are the tool vices:

When the handwheel is turned, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and firmly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.

Next, I proceeded to the manufacture of a protective casing. As I said, the casing on the grinder was under the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut in thick circles (2.6, or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones dangle a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing, and fix it directly to the frame.

First I made a template out of cardboard.