For greater convenience, a hand-held circular saw can be mounted on a table. This design will help you quickly and easily process and saw wood parts.

Working with a circular saw mounted on a special table greatly simplifies the sawing process and is safe when using special devices.

In this article we will tell you for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands.

Circular saw table design

The table base for a circular saw can be wood or metal.

The tabletop is made of metal or sheet wood materials. A hole is made in it for a circular saw blade.

Supports run along the guides in the tabletop, which move the timber and any other sawing material.

First of all, the table should be comfortable, stable (do not stagger!), The surface of the tabletop should be flat. These factors will help a person avoid injury during work.

The hole in the base is cut for a specific brand of saw

Before you start cutting the material and assembling the circular table, you need to calculate its dimensions and make a drawing.

The hole in the base must match the dimensions of the circular saw platform. For each brand of saw, this will be a specific size.

The plate installed on the countertop should not outweigh the table in one direction - the base must be resistant to external mechanical loads.

The dimensions of the countertop must match the flow.

For some, a folding table is enough, a small table with a removable circular saw. People who have a spacious workshop need a full-fledged table for a circular saw or even a circular machine.

Note: if it is planned to leave materials on the table during work, then the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe countertop should be at least a square meter. The optimal size for such a table is 120 x 120 cm.

Materials from which you can make a table for cutting wood:

• solid wood;
• Chipboard, chipboard, MDF, plywood;
• metal (steel or aluminum).

Plastic is not well suited as a material for making a saw table.

Prior to final assembly, all wooden parts of the table should be protected from moisture and decay.

To make a saw table with our own hands, we need the following materials:

• Chipboard or plywood 21 mm thick;
• timber for the table frame (you can use a edging board 50 x 150 mm 3 meters long - 5 pcs.);
• wooden dowels 10 mm - 12 pcs.;
• joiner's glue;
• metal fasteners for the sides and legs - 4 pcs.;
• metal corners - 10 pcs.;
• self-tapping screws.

Necessary tools for work:

• pencil, marker, tape measure, meter;
• jigsaw;
• manual ;
• Sander;
• sandpaper of medium and fine grit;
• plane;
• drill;
• screwdriver

Step 1. To begin with, we trim all sides of the beam with a planer. We assemble the frame of the table from the timber: on each side of the tabletop we drill two holes of 5 mm for dowels for each side and one hole for each table leg.

Step 2 In the sides you need to make two holes (5 mm), and in the legs - one each (5 mm).

Step 3 We install the dowels in the countertop, after lubricating them with wood glue. From above, the tsargs and legs are installed.

If there are clamps with ties, you can fix the table with them. After the glue has completely dried, the sides are fastened to the legs and to each other with special metal fasteners for tables and pulled together with self-tapping screws.

Note: the table will be stronger and more stable if you use metal corners for additional fastening of the tabletop: two on the short side and three on the long side.

Step 4 Now you need to fix the circular saw on the inside of the table top. There can be two options here: fasten the saw platform with M4 bolts or fasten the platform using bars with self-tapping screws. The first option is faster and more reliable. The second option does not require drilling holes in the metal platform for bolts.

Step 5 You can fix the saw with bolts or bars with self-tapping screws. We will fasten with bars, so in small bars we make a drink as wide as the saw platform. With bars with self-tapping screws on both sides, we fasten the circular saw to the tabletop.

Step 6 When the saw is installed, we take another larger bar and fasten it to the tabletop with self-tapping screws (directly to the points noted earlier, along which the saw platform was set evenly). This bar is necessary so that in the future, when removing the saw from the table, you can quickly return it to its place without resorting to marking.

Step 7 We install the circular saw blade in place and saw through the countertop to make a longitudinal hole. Flip the tabletop.

Step 8 We make a parallel stop. To do this, we saw off two strips from plywood with a length equal to the width of the table and a width of about 8–10 cm. We round the corners with a protractor and a pencil.

Step 9 We grind both strips and fasten them with self-tapping screws at an angle. Inside we fasten the metal corner.

Step 10 With constant work with a table for a circular saw and the need to fix the stop on the tabletop, a guide is fixed perpendicular to the disk. The roller or the second part of the guide is attached to the bottom of the fence so that the fence can drive up / drive away from the circular saw blade.

Workplace safety

In order not to be injured during work, it is necessary to carefully monitor the position of the saw table, its stability, strength.

Before each switching on of the circular saw, it is necessary to check whether it is well fixed in its place.

It is strictly forbidden to hold the cut material with your hands! This can lead to injury to the fingers or the tree bouncing in the face if knots and bumps get into it.

Also, be sure to wear protective goggles during operation to avoid injury to the eyes.
Do not neglect these simple rules, take care of your own health.

For more information on how to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands, see the following video:

A circular machine is the tool that no home craftsman can do without. This equipment is especially relevant for a country house or cottage. But working with a manual machine is not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.

The way out of this situation can be to make this device with your own hands. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or grinder.

Making a frame for a circular machine with your own hands is very simple. For the manufacture will be needed the most ordinary lumber and quite a bit of time.

Before thinking about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subject. The main thing in the frame is reliability and stability. For powerful production saws, the basis is a welded reinforced metal structure. But for do-it-yourself use, such a unit is not needed.

If you have just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since saws can be different, naturally, the design of the frame can also be different.

First of all, you need determine the power of the tool. As a rule, for home use, equipment is chosen where the power parameters do not exceed 850 watts. But, for example, when building a summer house or a country house, it is often necessary to saw a very large amount of wood.

That is, the power of the circular is required more. But experienced craftsmen do not advise buying saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase the cost of electricity.

The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed for it. For professional circulars, as a rule, a base is installed, welded from steel profile. Sometimes these beds are even concreted into the floor. Since the vibration of the device can lead to danger to life.

Technical features of circular machines

Depth of the intended incision. This parameter determines the thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine. This indicator in semi-professional and professional machines ranges from 5-8 cm. This is quite enough for cutting boards and thick plywood.

But it will be inconvenient to work with logs on this machine. In addition, it must be taken into account that this characteristic of a homemade saw decreases. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if the table frame is provided with the ability to lower or raise the disc.

When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular for the procurement of building materials, then this figure may be less. If you need a clean and even cut, then the speed is needed quite high. This is necessary, for example, for the manufacture of furniture.

But even in this case, there are certain nuances. This saw is not suitable for cutting plastic materials. Due to very high tool revolutions disk is warming up and the plastic starts to melt.

Therefore, it is better to choose an apparatus where the rotational speed is not more than 4500 rpm, in this case the frame for a circular saw can be make from wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional strengthening of the table is not required.

Well, in the end, what needs to be considered is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel should be safe. This rule is all the more important in the case when the open part of the saw is at the bottom of the table top.

In this version, the panel with switches is best placed from the outside of the machine or make a rising tabletop. This design is also convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin the direct assembly of the table.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

The simplest version of the frame for the circular is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool itself is attached to the bottom of the stationary tabletop. A special slot is made for the saw in the table lid.

The dimensions for the table can be changed as it will be convenient for you to work on it. For example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110-120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. Also, according to your desire, you can change the length of the tabletop.

If you plan to work with boards that have a length of more than 2.6 m, then the cover on the frame will need more. In this case, it is necessary to make changes directly to the design and additionally add some supports(legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.

For countertops usually plywood is used, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass slabs. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard, this material is not reliable enough.

Tools and materials for assembly

For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help to cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from steel and fixed to the lid with clamps.

It is undesirable to fix stationary guides, since later you will not be able to change their position.

To build a table, you will need the following materials:

• sheet of iron;
• plywood sheet;
• beam size 50 × 50 mm;
• board size 50 × 100 mm;
• steel corner for guides;
• two clamps;
• hand circular saw.

You also need to pre-prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:

1. Screwdriver, electric drill.
2. Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
3. Measurement tools (tape measure, square, ruler).
4. Hand mill or milling machine.

When everything is prepared, you can begin to assemble the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen collect countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the structural elements with your own hands. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.

Making a tabletop for a circular machine

The assembly of the table begins with the manufacture of the countertop. The plywood sheet is marked so that the two edges of the cover are in size with the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

The edge of the saw cut can be processed with a cutter, but this operation is optional. Since in the frame the main parameter is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The tabletop is rubbed “roughly” with sandpaper.

From the bottom of the tabletop mark slot for circular circle. Why first you need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the footprint.

With the help of a hand cutter, bars are selected to a depth of approximately 0.9-1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.

Then, when the seat is made, try on the saw and, if necessary, correct the recess. Mark the slots for the circle and fix the fasteners. If you want the circle to rise and fall, then you need to install pendulum mechanism for table top.

In this case, the slot must be made in the form of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downwards. Directly frame for hoist is best make from steel that are welded to each other.

Making a table frame

The markings for fixing the transverse rails and longitudinal ones, which act as stiffeners, are best installed on the wrong side of the countertop. The planks themselves are made from a bar. You will need:

• Two transverse parts, long equal to the width of the countertop minus 7-9 cm on each side.
• Two longitudinal ribs, equal in size to the length of the cover minus 7-9 cm on each side.

Then you need make nests for screws. The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the tabletop extends 7-9 cm beyond the edges of the frame. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.

The first fastener must be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23-25 ​​cm. All details need to drill through. The self-tapping screw is attached from the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed into the tree.

First fix the transverse ribs. To make the table cover as strong as possible, the edges of the rail must first smear with carpenter's glue. The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.

The tabletop is allowed to dry completely. After that, the longitudinal rails are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together with two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.

Mounting legs (supports)

Table legs are made from timber. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the worktop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg descends from below to an angle. So, the area of ​​the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of ​​the top.

It is best to secure the legs with steel corners. They need to be slightly pressed so that the base of the machine is in the "strut". This gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners, they are fastened with caps outward. Otherwise, during operation, you can be injured on the protruding parts of the fasteners.

The whole structure will be more stable if additional supports are pulled together with diagonal rails. They are attached in pairs from each side of the machine.

Cover surface polished and varnished or use a steel sheet for coating, which is mounted on self-tapping screws. At the very end, on the prepared place, the tool is attached directly.

On the table top additional markup, it will help to cut wood evenly and correctly. The control panel of the circular saw is located on the outside of the machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the legs of the table. That's all, the circular saw with your own hands is ready.

The circular saw is a handy and productive tool for construction work, with high performance and maneuverability. But when cutting large batches of lumber, working with a powerful circular saw is quite difficult. A do-it-yourself table for a circular saw can greatly facilitate this task.

An easy-to-make table can be made from plywood and boards. In this case, a hand-held circular saw is installed from the bottom of the tabletop, and its toothed disk is located in the slot of the tabletop. After turning on the saw, the disk begins to rotate, and when the sawn timber is fed, it is sawn. The maximum thickness of the processed lumber depends on the size of the blade and the power of the saw. When choosing a tool, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the tabletop to which the saw is attached from below.

How to choose a circular saw?

If you do not already have this tool and are planning to purchase it, the following characteristics should be considered when choosing:

1. Unit power. For a household tool, 800 W is enough power, but if you are thinking about making a table for a circular saw, then the amount of work with lumber will be significant. You'd be better off opting for a model with 1200W or more.
2. Cutting depth. The maximum thickness of the processed material depends on this parameter. Hand saws of a professional or semi-professional grade usually have a cutting depth of 40 to 70 mm, which is quite enough for cutting boards and plywood. Please note that the standard depth will decrease by about 10 mm when installing the saw in the table.
3. Rotation frequency. The higher the speed, the cleaner the cut - this rule applies to cutting hard materials. However, too high speeds are not suitable for plastic - due to the heating of the disk, it will begin to melt. Therefore, choose a model with a speed of 3000-4000 rpm or with smooth speed control.
4. Location of controls. When installing the saw from the underside of the worktop, access to the on/off button must be safe. Otherwise, you will need to provide an external control scheme.

Necessary materials

When making a table for a circular saw with your own hands, you will need woodworking skills and the following tool:

• Hand circular saw;
• A sheet of plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm;
• Board 50x100 mm;
• Bar 50x50 mm for legs;
• Drill, screwdriver, electric jigsaw, hand mill;
• Glue for wood, self-tapping screws;
• Varnish for wood;
• clamps;
• Ruler and pencil.

The dimensions of the table largely depend on the length of the materials being processed - the cut is much more accurate and even when the entire workpiece rests on the plane of the table. However, the excessively large size of the table clutters up the workspace, so you need to find a middle ground. The height of the table is better to choose individually, depending on the growth.

Manufacturing technology of a table for a circular saw

1. From plywood 20 mm, the worktop is prepared according to the selected dimensions. The plywood sheet is marked with a pencil and a joiner's ruler, sawn with a jigsaw and the edges are milled. The resulting workpiece is sanded. Marking for a circular saw is performed on the underside of the table top. To do this, turn over the worktop blank, install the saw without a disk in the intended place and mark the dimensions of the sole. With a manual milling cutter, a recess of 8-10 mm is selected in the countertop according to the marked seat.

   

2. They try on the saw, adjust it if necessary, after which they mark the places of its fastening and the slot for the toothed disk. If you plan to cut the material at different angles, keep this in mind when marking the slot - it will have a section in the form of a trapezoid with the top down.

   

3. On the underside of the table top, using a pencil and a ruler, mark out the stiffeners, to which the table legs will later be attached. The stiffeners are made from a board 50x100 mm and placed around the perimeter at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edges of the table. They apply the board to the countertop and circle it on both sides, after which they mark its central line along the ruler, and mark the location of the screws on it - 5 cm from the edge of each rib and 15-20 cm along its entire length. Drill holes through the markup.

   

4. They mark the boards for the longitudinal stiffeners and saw them. Fasten to the countertop with carpentry glue, pressing it with clamps. After that, side stiffeners are marked in place, sawn and glued in the same way.

   

5. After gluing, without removing the clamps, the structure is pulled with self-tapping screws through the holes made, having previously drilled them from the outside so that the self-tapping screw heads are completely recessed into the countertop.

   

6. The stiffeners are pulled together by two 50 mm self-tapping screws on each side. Take off the clamps. The finished table looks like this.

   

7. The legs for the table are made from a board 50x100 mm. The height of the legs should ensure the convenience of work, on average it is 100-110 cm. The board is cut along the longitudinal axis at a slight angle on one side. Try them on the countertop so that when installed they stand slightly apart. Attach the legs on the outside of the stiffeners to the bolts. To increase stability, you can make screeds from a 50x50 mm bar.

   

8. A hand-held circular saw is installed in the prepared groove on the underside of the tabletop, fixing the sole to the bolts, while inserting the toothed disk into the slot.

   

9. Markings can be applied to the table to facilitate cutting the material. The table itself, in order to protect against moisture and facilitate the sliding of lumber, is recommended to be varnished in several layers.
10. It remains to solve the issue of turning the saw on and off. If you have sufficient knowledge in electrical engineering, you can bypass the power key and bring the control buttons to the outer surface of the front stiffener. If this scheme seems too complicated for you, it will be enough just to pull the key with a wire and turn the saw on and off with the power cord.

    

11. The above table design is quite simple, and anyone can handle its manufacture. If you want to expand the functionality of the table for a circular saw, increase its safety, you can make the design more complex, as shown in the video.

Thus, as you could see, making a table for a circular saw with your own hands is a simple task that any summer resident can do.

Video - making a table for a circular saw

A circular saw is a very popular tool due to its combination of convenience and high performance, it is popularly called simply a circular saw.

You can do a lot of carpentry work with this saw. Those who already own such a tool or are about to purchase one may know that sawing material in large batches with this device is very hard work.

To facilitate the process, it is recommended to use a special sawing table - especially since you can make it yourself. Moreover, this idea is easier to implement than it might seem at first glance. First you need to prepare the working material - boards and plywood.

In this case, the hand saw will be located below the working surface, while the working disk will be located in the slot. When we turn on the saw, the disk begins to rotate, and when the material is fed, the process of cutting it goes through. The choice of the thickness of the workpieces that are planned to be processed depends on how much power the saw has and what size disk is installed on it. When choosing a tool, you should pay attention to the thickness of the countertop on which it will be installed.

The process of making a sawmill for wood

Before this do-it-yourself table for a circular saw appeared, three different options were tried, but for various reasons they did not fit the job.

The following ideas were implemented:
1) so that the saw can be easily installed on the table and so it is easy to remove it to use it as a hand tool.
2) so that the saw button can be locked in the pressed position.
3) so that you can work comfortably thanks to the simple parallel stop, which is simply and securely fixed.

Do-it-yourself table for a manual circular saw: video

Many home craftsmen dream of conducting independent cutting of lumber. This is a simple matter, but without suitable equipment it is almost impossible. So why not adapt a hand-held circular saw for this and assemble a table with the possibility of a longitudinal and transverse cut with your own hands?

In the four corners of the shoe, make one hole with a diameter of 10 mm. Drilling locations are arbitrary. Place the saw blade in the slot on the tabletop and align the shoe with the markings. Mark the centers of the holes made on the plywood and transfer them to the back side with a thin drill.

If there is not enough space in the support shoe to drill such large holes, use two steel plates with welded 6 mm studs, attach them to the base of the saw with wing nuts with star washers. In this case, it will be a matter of five minutes to remove the hand saw and return it to its place without additional adjustment. The plates, in turn, have one large hole each for secure mounting and initial adjustment of the position of the saw.

To fasten the saw to the tabletop, you need to use M8 ploughshare bolts with a countersunk cone head. Under them, an 8 mm hole is drilled from the front side and a countersink is made for a cap, which, in an untightened state, should protrude no more than 1 mm above the surface. On the reverse side, the bolts pass into the holes of the support shoe (or steel plates) and are tightened under a wide and spring washer, or a nut with a plastic grower.

If the fitting was successful, the countertop must be fixed to the box. In the four corners of the plywood board, you need to drill one hole the same as for attaching the saw. The distance from the edges is half the side of the bar used plus the wall thickness of the box, in our case it is 30 mm. A 10 mm hole is drilled in the center of each bar, a steel screw M8x18 mm is screwed inside.

Once the tabletop is secured, turn the table on its side so that you have access to both the blade and the saw mounts at the same time. After removing the protective cover for a while, set the saw blade along the longitudinal axis of the table using a rail and square. After adjusting the disc, tighten the fastening nuts well. Using a ruler or level attached to the disc, mark the edges of the table and draw a line of the cut plane along them. Draw along the line several times with an awl, leaving a shallow groove, such a marking will definitely not be erased after long use.

Start button and electrical

The standard power button must be shunted, and if this is not possible, clamp it with a clothespin or harness. Instead of a button on the handle, a small electrical network will be used, laid inside the box.

On the outer front side of the box, install a double button "Start / Stop" with fixation. Its normally open contact is connected to a break in the power cable. The ends of the wire are connected to a socket screwed on the inside.

After the saw is connected and tested in operation, it is necessary to pull a triple-folded nylon stocking onto the air intake grille.

Cross cut guide

Trimming of parts is conveniently carried out in the presence of a thrust beam that moves along guides along the cut line. You can make this from ordinary 9 mm plywood.

All you need is a few boards:

• 150x250 mm 2 pcs.
• 100x820 mm 2 pcs.
• 150x820 mm 1 pc.
• 142x300 mm 1 pc.

As before, sawing plywood on precision equipment is preferable. Three long boards must be assembled in the form of a channel 150 mm wide and with shelves of 100 mm. Since the self-tapping screws will face the countertop, you need to pre-drill the plywood under them and recess the fasteners, and then process the traces with emery cloth. It is more reliable to use confirmations instead of self-tapping screws.

Boards 150x250 mm are screwed like channel plugs, the free ends are directed downwards. The remaining bar is screwed between the shelves exactly in the center. If this beam is placed on a table, the side boards will drop down the sides of the box with a gap of about 10 mm on each side.

Use full extension furniture rails with ball bearings. First attach them to the beam, and then try on and screw them to the body. The fastening holes are oblong, use them to adjust the beam: it should slide over the tabletop with a very small gap and at right angles to the cutting plane. Pass the beam once with the saw running to make a cut at the bottom. For quick removal and installation of the beam, it is recommended to snap off the plastic clips on the rails in advance.

Adjustable rip fence

It is much easier to dissolve the forest if there is a longitudinal stop. It can be made from an ordinary aluminum cornice or another lightweight profile with a perfectly even edge and stiffeners. You will need a cut along the length of the table, that is, 800 mm.

At 150 cm from the edges, make two holes of 8 mm and insert into them along the M8 bolt, orienting the thread down. Screw on the nut without the washer and tighten firmly. At the same distance from the edges of the table, draw two lines. At their intersection with the centerline of the tabletop, drill holes of 12 mm. One more hole is drilled on the same lines with an indent of 30 cm. Using a milling cutter or a jigsaw, make two thin slots, it is advisable to cut as evenly as possible.

The stop profile is inserted with bolts into these slots; after adjustment, it can be pressed with lambs with a wide washer from the inside. If the cutting width needs to be changed frequently, provide the table body with door hinges for easy opening. To make the adjustment of the stop faster, fasten the cut tape from the tape measure to the ends of the table.