The main methods of shaping the appearance of a plant include pruning, pinching, pinching and tying to a support or trellis. Each procedure has its own purpose.

Crown pruning

Pruning is very important for plants because it maintains a balance between the aboveground part of the plant and its root system. When forming the crown by pruning, it is necessary not only to give the plant a beautiful appearance, but also to achieve an even supply of nutrients to all branches of the plant, in addition, the plant should be accessible from all sides to light and air.

Some plants (laurels, myrtles, biota, boxwood, etc.) can withstand pruning to give them a wide variety of shapes, for example, a ball, a pyramid, etc.
To obtain a standard form, all lateral shoots are removed from the plant, and when the shoot intended for removing the stem reaches the desired height, its top is pinched. This will cause lateral shoots to appear from the leaf axils, the tops of which are also pinched, and this is done 2-3 times until the crown branches out well enough. V standard form grow roses, pelargoniums, fuchsias, etc.

Pruning is carried out annually in the spring, after transplanting. Shoots are trimmed above the outward-facing bud. In this case, the cutting should not remain above the kidney, but the kidney must be intact. Pruning is done with pruning shears, sharp scissors or a knife.

Strong pruning is also used to rejuvenate plants (pelargonium, fuchsia, hydrangea, etc.). In this case, almost the entire crown is removed, only short shoots with 2-3 buds are left. When pruning, you should take into account where the buds should form - on old or young shoots. Plants that flower on new summer shoots are pruned in the spring, before growth begins.

By the way: not always pinching the apical bud immediately leads to the development of lateral shoots, sometimes it takes quite long time... For example, once in May, I pinched the apical buds of two lateral shoots on the euonymus, and these shoots started branching only in July, all this time other, not pinched shoots grew.

Wire formation of plants

This technique is used not only to create bonsai, but also for ordinary shrubs or miniature trees grown at home. Wire forming can be done in two ways:

• wrap the wire around the branch in a spiral
• make a loop and bend the branch in the desired direction

The method depends on the purpose - if you need to straighten a curved branch or take it to the side, then we use a winding, if only lower it down, then just pull it (in the second photo, the right branch is directed downward, the wire is attached behind the edge of the pot). By the way, if you bend the branch strongly down, so that the crown of the shoot looks towards the windowsill, then after a while buds or one bud, located closer to the base of the trunk, appear on this branch, i.e. new escape at the bottom of the branch. This technique is used to force the plant to branch.

If you want to use wire wrapping, then keep in mind that branches with a thin, vulnerable bark must first be wrapped with soft electrical tape so as not to injure the plant. In addition, it is unnecessary to overlay the coils very tightly, because the branches grow not only in length, but also in thickness. If you do not leave a margin, the wire will grow into the bark and leave a scar (photo below).

Before putting the wire on densely leafy shoots, you need to rid them of small twigs and leaves in order to better see the skeleton of a tree or shrub. Do not think that they will remain bald, over time they will grow even more.

Pinching (pinching)

Pinching, or pinching, consists in removing the apical kidney - it is removed by hand or cut with scissors or a knife. This causes the development of side shoots. The plants are pinched after transplanting, when they take root and begin to grow. It should be borne in mind that pinching and pruning delay the beginning of flowering, therefore, after the plants get the desired shape or bushiness, pinching is stopped. Pinching or small pruning in August of strong branches with flower buds improves the quality of the flowers.

Many plants are pruned after flowering (acacia, hydrangea, etc.). Plants that are very balding during the winter in warm conditions(eg fuchsias) are pruned in the spring when new growth begins. At the same time, dry, weak and excess branches are cut off. Good strong stems are cut by about half.

In passionflower, after flowering, all flowering shoots are cut off almost to the base, and in the fall, in addition, all non-lignified shoots are cut off. In the spring of passionflower, the lower shoots are cut off in order to direct all the juices to the upper, flowering shoots. But in hoya (wax ivy), on the contrary, flower-bearing shoots are not cut off, because they are capable of producing new flowers.

Stealing

Stepping is a technique that consists in removing unnecessary lateral shoots (stepsons). It is mainly used for decorative flowering plants. Non-flowering or poorly flowering lateral shoots are removed. This technique promotes more abundant flowering and larger flowers. Also pinching is required on ampel plants, such as fuchsia, especially when the shoots are not tied up to the support, but hang freely. At the same time, strong branching occurs from one stem, and if some of these branches are not removed, the stems become heavy and can break off. And, in addition, not pinched, strongly branching shoots quickly become bare at the base, this happens not only in fuchsias, but also in tradescantia, hoya, hypocyrtes.

In addition to ampelous, all indoor flowers, which tend to grow a dense shapeless crown, need pinching. For example, hibiscus, azaleas (rhododendrons), euonymus, pomegranate, some ficuses, such as benjamin.

Garter to support

The garter of plants is designed to give the plant resistance and more beautiful sight... A garter to a support should be mandatory for plants that are taken out into the garden in the open air so that the plant is not damaged by the wind. Plants are tied up with woolen thread, soft braid, ribbon, large plants in the form of trees are tied up with wire (in a winding). It is better to take threads or braid green or Brown color... When tying it, it is important that the bark or skin of the stems is not damaged. Plants with a long stem are tied up in several places. In bushy plants, one or more main stems are tied up.

The photo shows ways to create a garter wall, from trellises, can be made from thin slats. It is so convenient to tie up not only lianas (ivy, hoyi and other plants), but even fruit trees, ficuses. Moreover, if you form citrus fruits in one plane on a trellis, you can get a more productive fruit tree. Judge for yourself, at home the lighting is one-sided (the chandelier and lamps in the room do not count), but lemon, tangerine or orange tree you need a lot of light and necessarily some sun. The location of the crown in one plane allows you to place the plant even on a narrow window sill, while the branches will not hang over the edge where the batteries, and even if they begin to protrude slightly beyond the edge, you can protect them with a greenhouse film.

The disadvantage of forming a crown in one plane is that it needs to be done from a young age - when the stems are still flexible. That is, you need to think over the entire structure in advance. You will need a frame - a frame to which you need to pull a metal wire horizontally, but thick, not flexible, or wooden slats... The rope and fishing line are not suitable - they will sag under the weight of the branches. And you will have to fix the trellises not in a pot, but in a long box or container (see figure), since the structure is quite heavy, an ordinary pot can simply tip over.

Leaf care

Leaf care can also be called appearance shaping. Dust and dirt settle on the leaves of plants as well as furniture, but this is not always noticeable. Dust clogs the pores on the leaves, interfering with respiration processes, reducing the amount of light that plants need, and simply violates the decorative beauty of plants. On plants with wide leaves, dust is especially noticeable. The leaves of such plants should be wiped more often with a damp cloth or sponge. For plants that are not contraindicated for spraying, it would be nice to have a shower periodically, if the size of the plant allows. Sprays or leaf polish sprays can also be used, but not all plants can be used. It is especially convenient to use polish for large plants, which to wipe with a sponge for too long, and if such a plant is in the office, then there is simply no time to wipe the leaves.

Leaf polishes are available at flower shops or a garden center. Before buying a polish, make sure your plant can be polished and read the instructions carefully, and especially the precautions. Plants with pubescent leaves should not be wiped with a sponge or cloth, and dust accumulates on them as well. Therefore, they are cleaned of dust with a soft paint brush. Cacti and other succulents are also cleaned with a brush, and for the prevention of various pests, these plants are periodically washed with a brush dipped in pure medical alcohol. And of course, everyone should understand that from any plant it is necessary to periodically pick yellowed and dried leaves, as well as old wilted flowers. this spoils its decorative appeal. When picking old leaves or removing damaged ones, pay attention to whether there are too many of them. Otherwise, it may be that a pest has wound up on your plant, or the conditions of care are violated.

Natalia Rusinova

Surely you heard from the mouth experienced florists words like pruning, pinching, pinching. Really, someone might think, indoor plants cannot grow well without these interventions?

Of course they can. But when you see in flower shop, for example, a beautiful lush azalea bush, dotted with large flowers, and compare it with your favorite, you involuntarily have a question: "How did they do it?" So, it is for this that pruning and pinching of plants is needed.

Pruning

Pruning plays an essential role in the formation of the crown of the plant. It is used not only when it is necessary to give the plant a lush and compact form, but also in order to maintain a balance between the root system and the aboveground part. Besides nutrients will evenly flow to all branches.

Pruning is carried out every year in the spring, some time after transplanting. The long bare shoots are shortened by cutting them over the outward-facing bud and being careful not to damage it. In this case, even a small cutting should not remain above the kidney.

In order to "rejuvenate" a plant such as fuchsia, pelargonium or hydrangea, strong pruning is used.

With this procedure, almost the entire crown is removed, leaving only the required number of short shoots with 2-3 buds.

When pruning, it should be borne in mind on which shoots (old or young) buds will form.

If a plant forms flowers on fresh summer shoots, then in the spring, pruning is done before growth begins.

Crown formation

Some evergreen ornamental indoor plants(myrtle, laurel, boxwood, etc.) with the help of pruning give a wide variety of geometric shapes - a pyramid, a ball, a cone, etc.

Pinching indoor plants

This procedure is another method of plant formation, which consists in removing the tops of young shoots.

This stimulates the development of additional lateral shoots. But their growth does not start immediately, sometimes it can take a long time.

With the help of pinching and pruning, for example, you can grow clerodendrum, Benjamin's ficus or laurel in the form of a standard tree.

Plants should be pinched after the next transplant, when they take root well.

It is worth remembering that pruning and pinching delay the onset of bud ripening, therefore, after giving the plant the desired bushy shape, pinching the plants is stopped.

To delight the eye with lush and beautiful bushes with abundant flowering, you need to know exactly how to pinch petunia correctly. If petunias are given free rein to grow on their own, then it will simply stretch out, and the flowers will be small. Correct pinching (pinching) of the main growth point will certainly stimulate the lateral stems to grow and after 12 days, the edge in two weeks, flower ovaries will appear on them, which is what we are striving for.

How to pinch petunia correctly on later dates development to give a certain shape? In the purchased seedlings, the first pinching has already been done. Repeated - performed depending on the variety. Therefore, we will focus on how to pinch petunia correctly. unpretentious varieties and breeding (here - the best varieties these beautiful flowers) hybrids.

The importance of pinching for any plant

Pinching is either trimming with scissors or breaking off the top of the stem with your fingers. After it is carried out, the remainder of the shoot thickens, the buds in the axils become larger, and the color of the leaves is richer. The process is carried out so that young, strong stems with flowers grow and the plant takes on a delightful appearance.

It should be noted that the method works only if the pinching was done before the end of the growing season.

The first pinch - on petunia seedlings

We carry out pinning in the following way:

• We form a seedling as soon as it began to gain strength and grow.
• The best time to pinch is when petunias have developed several (5 - 6) leaves. If this is not done in time, the seedlings will stretch out, the bush will not have a spherical appearance, the stems will not branch.
• When a flower is planted in the ground, pinching is performed after its rooting and adaptation (usually at the end of May). For it to take root well, it needs to organize suitable conditions for development: we plant the seedlings not a lot, then they will develop better, we fertilize (feed) them at the root, we regularly moisten and spray the leaves with water.
• When keeping seedlings in a greenhouse (we grow them together with others), we make pinching only after diving. Plants adapt quickly (within a few days). And then they can be cut off.
• Formation is performed with pruners or fingers. Above the last (5 - 6) petunia leaf, remove the apical bud. This will create a new point for the stems to grow and branch out.

The last emphasis after all the actions is done on the powder cut of the flowers or wood ash or powder activated carbon... In order for the seedling to recover faster, it would be nice to spray it or sprinkle it with plant development stimulants: "Zircon" or "Epin".

After the event, the seedlings slow down growth, but they are gaining strength. The petunia species becomes globular when the lateral stems grow.

Shoot length for separation

The separated part of the shoot should be 4 centimeters, but still more authentic. If you prune the thinnest place on the stem (the tip of the shoot) of the flower, then other processes, developing in this place, will break off in bad weather and wind.

We do not forget to fertilize the soil every week, and we regularly moisten the shoots of the plant, preferably every second (third) day.

Repeated pinching of petunias after planting in open ground

The pinching should be repeated 2 - 3 times, and not only on the central, but also on the lateral stems of flowers. We carry out this action when they grow up to 13 - 15 cm. To improve the shape and rich flowering of petunias, it is advisable to shorten the shoots 28 - 30 days after the first procedure. In this case, there should be at least 5 leaves on the main process.

Ampel varieties do not need re-pruning. But in many varieties, one of the branches continues to stretch rapidly, taking food and strength from the rest. In some cases, an ovary appears on it. Then it must be urgently pinched with scissors (secateurs). To do this, we count from the bottom 3 - 5 leaves and cut off the rest. The growth point of the petunia will change. It will not grow up, but will sprout side shoots.

I draw your attention to the fact that after pinching, flowering is postponed by 12 - 14 days. But in the end, not 1 flower will bloom, but several, and the buds will be larger.

Before the next pinching, you need to wait until the bush grows. After that, we shorten the elongated stems, as a result - the flowers will be denser. In this case, I recommend making a cut closer to the base of the branch, and not pinching just the top of the head.

In order for the vegetation to please with abundant flowering, this operation must be performed without fail.

Adult flowering plant undercut for the purpose better development bush and increase the time of its splendor.

What to do after pinching

With regular shortening of shoots and enhanced growth of petunia, constant feeding is required with a growth stimulator and full mineral fertilizer... Otherwise, many thin stems will develop. Achieving the return from the plant can only be with constant watering and proper care.

We remember that it is necessary to pick off withered flowers in time (do not pull them out, but pinch off the branch with a pedicel). By forming testes, they take away the strength of the plant.

In the lion's share of cases, pinching of petunias is carried out 2-3 times: in the seedling phase, after planting in the ground and during the growing season. But if the third pinching can be neglected, then in the phase of seedling and planting in open soil, they are iron obligatory.

Remember that pruning is stressful for our flowers. For this reason, after it, the bushes freeze a little in development, but the development of lateral stems, which form large buds, is enhanced.

• Try not to injure the sprout too much. We use clean instruments for pinching.
• We form a petunia bush in a timely manner. Delaying the process is bad for development.
• We carry out pinning on a monthly basis.
• To prevent the plant from burning and dying, we prune it in the evening or in the morning, when the sun's rays are not very active.
• We do not throw out the plucked off stems, but use them as cuttings (if only they have a stable stem and 5 - 6 leaves). For rooting, having torn off the lower leaves, we place them in a jar of water. As soon as the roots grow, we plant the stems in fertile soil... So you and I will have additional seedlings.

It is important to remember that if you grafted hybrid varieties of petunias, then the grown specimen will retain appearance and signs of the original. When propagated by seeds, this cannot be achieved.

Petunias - blooming beauties with an obstinate but sympathetic character. If you constantly take care of them, take good care of them, then they will delight you with gratitude all summer long.

Pinching petunias for the splendor of the bush-video

Pinching plants (pinching, scientifically - pinching) is a special agricultural technique. In gardening practice, pinching means the removal (breaking off, cutting off) with the fingers (nails) of the top of the green (soft) shoot on the plant. We use pinching on some types of flowers, vegetables, trees, berries. Pinching and pinching (for example) are usually considered separate procedures, although confusion in terminology is sometimes observed. Rather, these activities are multidirectional in their purpose: pinching is the removal of branches in order to improve the supply of the center, while pinching the plants starts the opposite process.

Pinching is done to redistribute feeding streams and activate branching, in some cases it leads to restraint of growth processes and ripening of wood (but, sometimes, it also gives the opposite effect). It is believed that such injury to plants is minimal and heals quickly. Sometimes pinching is desirable, sometimes it is dangerous. It is used deliberately, depending on the variety, type of climate, weather. There are no uniform recommendations on this matter, but there are certain "rules of the game".

Terminologically and in essence, the procedure of plucking out unnecessary buds, buds and ovaries, as well as pruning (and breaking) leaves, branches, peduncles, is also distinguished from pinching plants.

Essential in plant formation

General timing rules

Cutting off the top early makes the flower bushes more luxuriant, but postpones the flowering period and, sometimes, reduces the size of the corollas. Some plants may not have time to bloom at all (saintbrinks, chrysanthemums, dahlias).

The first half of the season is the phase of active vegetation: pinching provokes tillering of the plant, and in some trees - the development of potential fruitful buds instead of "empty" growth buds. At the end of summer, a similar technique (in combination with the minimization of nitrogen nutrition) can contribute to an increase in the quality and quantity of fruits (for example, in tomatoes), and the ripening of wood.

In northern and temperate latitudes, late summer pinching of wintering plants can provoke untimely growth, delay lignification, and worsen wintering (in grapes, raspberries, trees, etc.). False pinching is more dangerous than missing one.

What plants are indicated for pinching micro-operations

Vegetables, melons and herbs

Brussels sprouts

A textbook example of a plant subject to mandatory pinching. When tiny rudiments of heads of cabbage appear, we must cut off the top.

Tomatoes

Another classic of limiting growth. It is well known that in areas with relatively short summer it is necessary to remove the crown in a timely manner from indeterminate varieties (approximately - a month before the end of the growing season, approximately in August). Similar procedures are also carried out for peppers, eggplants, other nightshades, physalis.

Melon

In melons, female flowers usually bloom in the third stage of branching. It is necessary to pinch the melon bushes three times: for the first time - over the fourth leaf, then - we repeat this for each of the newly regrown shoots; the third time - towards the end of the growing season of the plant, we cut off the tops of the lashes, redirecting food to the growing and ripening ovaries.

Watermelon

In watermelons, on the contrary, at the beginning of the season, one should try not to damage the main lash of the plant. We pinch the growth points later, when a reasonable (moderate) number of ovaries has grown, in order to limit their number.

Cucumbers

Lovers of non-hybrid varieties of cucumbers use a double pinch (as on melons), stimulating the regrowth of shoots of the third order.

When cultivating hybrids in closed ground and on the trellises we sometimes pinch the main stem when it grows too long (naturally, closer to the end of the season). We pinch the tops of the stepsons when there is a lack of light and power.

(Some growers find it helpful to remove tendrils from cucumbers.)

Pumpkins, long-leaved and climbing zucchini

When there are already several ovaries, we cut off the tops of the lashes. We pinch off the top of the branches as soon as the fruit is tied and a couple of leaves grow over it.

Beans (curly, including grain)

We remove the tops that have reached the end of the trellis. This technique promotes full grain ripening (especially in regions with short summers).

Basil

We make early pinching to obtain lush bushes.

Annual flowers

Fortunately, you can safely pinch them without worrying about winter hardiness. This procedure adds splendor and attractiveness. However, it should be remembered that plants may bloom later and that full seed material will not always ripen.

Ornamental perennial plants

Caution should be exercised with late flowering and capricious plants: with excessive growth of lateral shoots, there is not always enough nutrition for a decent flowering.

To clematis, pinching adds bushiness, but flowers on the growing branches appear later, and their corollas are slightly smaller than expected (although total amount at the same time may increase).

For shrubs for splendor, for correcting the shape of the crown, we pinch in the spring and at the beginning of summer, so that by winter the regrown branches are lignified.

Saplings

Branched saplings of plants are more valuable than ankle saplings. At the beginning of the season, we remove the tops, towards the end of the season we do this work again (for timely suspension of growth and good lignification).

Berry

Grape

The most difficult culture in the development of pinching by beginners, in areas atypical for viticulture. Excessive "raging" reduces the yield, the size of the plant's berries, the size of the bunches; this may affect winter hardiness. According to the rules, you need to regularly pinch the branches; the main shoots are also not advised to give free rein. Specific recommendations strongly depend on the climate, microclimate, varietal characteristics, age of the bush, type winter shelter and other factors. Novice, timid, overly busy winegrowers can be given the following advice: so as not to harm grape plant, it is better not to touch it at all during the summer (especially if you haven’t figured out the formation rules, have not received advice from experienced colleagues); do one clever pruning before wintering.

Raspberries and blackberries

In the southern regions, with mild winters, summer pinning of these berry crops allows the formation of branched bushes, which will bring high yields next year. V middle lane and in the northern regions, such lush bushes do not have a good maturity of wood, and in winter they often freeze too much. For these types of terrain, it is sometimes advised to pinch off the green tops of raspberries and blackberries in early autumn, so that the trunks of plants become lignified faster. Most experienced northern raspberry breeders do not do this, because a prolonged autumn can provoke the development of lateral branches, which will deplete the bushes and reduce their winter hardiness.

Apple and pear

A separate branch of horticulture is formed by the science of correct pinching. fruit trees, especially the young. Timely and regular removal of the green points of plant growth allows you to adjust the shape and height of the crown without causing large wounds, form a convenient central conductor and remove its unsuccessful competitors, avoid terrible spinning, and most importantly, turn growth branches into fruiting ones, overgrown with fruit buds.