Today, plums can be found in almost every garden. Thanks to the variety of varieties, this tree can be grown in a wide variety of climates. But not all of them give bountiful harvests of tasty juicy fruits.

What is she like, plum?

The most important advantage of this tree is that its fruits contain an incredible amount nutrients... They are rich in calcium, phosphorus, mineral salts, proteins, carbohydrates, chromium, iodine, zinc, copper. In addition, they contain a huge amount of vitamins.

It is difficult to overestimate the benefits of this fruit. But, like anyone garden plant, this tree has its own problems, for example, it begins to dry. Why does the plum dry?

What is important for the plum?

The most important condition for growing a plum tree is space. All gardeners should remember that crown joining is not permissible. This condition is important to consider when planting seedlings. Besides, Special attention must be given to fertilizers. The fact is that you need to make them in the amount indicated in the instructions, otherwise you can only harm the tree.

The choice of a variety is an equally important procedure. Indeed, the abundance of the harvest will depend on a well-chosen seedling suitable specifically for your climate.

What causes the tree branches to dry out?

Immediately I would like to note that there are more than enough reasons why the branches begin to dry. The most important - improper care... However, diseases and pests are just as problematic for trees. Timely treatment, destruction of pests will do their good job. The plum will bloom gorgeous and produce delicious fruits. So why are the branches of the plum drying?

I harvest, therefore, and the tree itself is often threatened by fungal and viral infections. Insects also "try", sometimes causing irreparable damage. And if you consider that plums have a lot of diseases and pests, then it is quite difficult to understand the reason.

But, looking closely, it becomes clear that the signs of diseases, as well as currents, differ. Therefore, to determine the source of the problem, it is necessary to understand the pest or some kind of infection.

Care, what's wrong?

To keep the plant healthy and strong, it is important to take proper care of it. So, breaking the water balance, you can destroy the tree. Plum does not perceive both excessive moisture and drying out.

With an excess of water, the roots die off, which undoubtedly affects the branches, leaves and fruits. Dry soil "hits" on flowering, the formation of ovaries, which, by the way, it can throw off.

Influence of temperature

It is important for gardeners to remember that low temperature harmful to the plum. If in winter period the tree freezes, then in the spring it begins to dry out and it is unrealistic to save it. Thus, we have identified another reason why plum branches dry up.

To prevent this from happening, first of all, you need to choose the right variety suitable for specific climatic conditions. Prepare the plum for winter: whitewash the trunk, cover, protecting the roots from frost.

Diseases

If young shoots and leaves dry up, then you should think about the fact that the tree is infected with something. We must carefully examine the plant. In the case when a clear liquid emerges from the tree bark, which later solidifies, we can talk about gum flow. If you do not take any measures, then as a result the tree will weaken, the branches will begin to dry out, and it may simply die.

Aphids can be a viral pathogen, by the way, already infected seedlings are often bought. If, due to the defeat of the virus, the branches have dried up and the leaves wilted, then the plant can no longer be saved. It will have to be uprooted.

Another common disease is smallpox, which is also caused by aphids. Light spots on the leaves, yellowing and drying out, indicate a disease. The fruits turn brown and fall off.

With mosaic spotting, chlorotic spots with a hole in the center form on the leaves. The plates narrow, shrink, shrink.

Fungi are also harmful to plums. They are formed in connection high humidity, most often in rainy summers. They appear as dots on the bark, similar to goose bumps.

Diseases in fruit plants a large number of... To understand what exactly the tree got sick with, it is necessary to study all the symptoms and only after that start treatment or completely destroy it by uprooting it.

Prophylaxis

Your plum is sick. The leaves of the tree are drying. The reason is clear - your inattention.

To avoid problems with the plant, it is necessary to cut off dead branches before the buds swell, collect and burn dead ovaries and fruits. Prune and destroy infected branches during flowering. Before you start harvesting, collect and dispose of the padanka.

In addition, from the moment of swelling until the very beginning of the appearance of color, treat the plum with a 1% Bordeaux mixture. Use chorus during flowering. If the weather is wet, spray the plant soon after flowering.

In any case, the health and fertility of the plum largely depends on the ability to properly care for the plant, detecting and eliminating the problem in time.

Photo of dried plum after flowering

In our gardens. It's time to talk about what plum diseases can rob us of the long-awaited harvest.

Colorful, perfect shape intact plum fruits are a gardener's dream. At maximum yield.

We see these on the tags attached to the seedlings, on the shelves of supermarkets.

To see healthy, beautiful plums on a tree grown with your own hands, you have to work hard.

Juicy sweet fruit not only we love. There are many competitors.

The garden pet is attacked not only visible to the eye offenders, infect her and microorganisms of various types.

They cause plum diseases.

What is plum sickness

Like any living organism, the plum tree is susceptible to disease.

He, like a person, is struck by the pathogenic flora of three types:

• Bacterial;
• Viral;
• Fungal.

Non-communicable diseases in trees also happen.

In the years of rampant any of the groups of diseases, not only the garden can lose its harvest.

The owner, who has not taken timely measures to protect and treat plants, may lose the garden itself.

Plum infectious diseases

Transmitted (infectious) from other plants of the same species or interspecific diseases require the vigilance of the gardener.

From oversight, they can flare up in the garden like wildfire.

Viral infections

Smallpox (sharka)

Distributed in all areas of plum growing in Russia.

Favorable conditions for the development of the disease, a climate suitable for it, coincide with the beloved southern region of the plum.

But it withstands sharka and the harsh conditions of winters in the middle zone.

Smallpox is a common disease of stone fruit crops. Apricots, cherries, cherry plums, and other stone fruits suffer from this virus.

You can first notice the infection with the sharki virus on the leaves.

Lightened rings of leaf tissue and stripes on it, depleted in chlorophyll, are a reason to be wary.

The first signs of smallpox are marks on the leaves. They are lighter than healthy tissue and can be seen in the light. Later, the spots and lines turn yellow.

The fruits are also affected. This is noticeable from afar by the abnormally early ripening - the color changes.

Ring-shaped depressed spots also appear on fruits. This is probably why the disease is called smallpox.

There may also be linear dark stripes. Diseased plums are malformed.

The pulp is struck to the bone, brown. In places of lesion, sticky transparent gum accumulates.

Plums fall early, they are not suitable for use. Treatment of a plum with a shark disease does not give a result.

Plum trees - aphids - are infected with smallpox. They carry the virus from other plants.

Sharka is "polyphagous" and settles not only on fruit trees. It can also get on the plum from ornamental (clover), medicinal (sweet clover), weeds (nightshade).

Vaccination, planting material may contain the virus. Another transfer route is gardening tools.

When processing several trees, it is worthwhile to provide for the disinfection of budding knives, secateurs, and other equipment - after each.

Our gardeners will appreciate the sterility. And they will thank you: health and harvest.

Chlorotic ring spot

The disease also causes discoloration of the leaf.

These are rings or a blurry pattern. In the middle of the border, a hole forms from the ring: necrotic tissue falls out.

A mosaic patterned border remains around the holes.

Leaves with this disease plum become smaller, become narrow, hard and wrinkled.

A slowdown in the growth of foliage and the whole tree is characteristic.

Ring spot spreads through untreated inventory.

Can through pollen and seeds of infected plants. Through weeds - only in transit: they are temporary carriers of the disease. Pollen springboards.

Like smallpox, it can be transmitted with grafting material, seedlings.

Group of fungal diseases

Fungal diseases of plums are widespread, especially in dense plantings or with thickened crowns.

Warm, humid climates are an additional risk of fungus attack on the tree.

Outbreaks of fungal diseases are companions of wet summers in any geographic area. Dry years inhibit the development of the fungus.

Clasterosporium disease

It affects the aboveground parts of the plum: buds, branches, leaves, flowers, the fruits themselves.

The disease can be recognized by brown spots on the leaves. The spots have a reddish border.

They crumble, holes are formed - holes on the leaves. Hence the second name for plum ailment - perforated spotting.

The shoots are covered with spots, the bark cracks. If the kidneys are affected, they turn black. Flowers are showered.

The affected leaves dry out. On the fruits, spots are also formed: at first they are small, depressed, differing in color (reddish) from the rest of the surface.

Later they swell, gum flows out of the spots. The fruits dry out.

Since the disease is fungal, there is an active production of spores. They are small, volatile, and spread quickly.

Stone fruit plantations are infected by the transfer of spores by the wind, insects, through inventory.

The yield is greatly reduced - to a complete loss. Diseased trees are weakened.

Moniliosis

The disease of the plum moniliosis has other names: gray rot (reflects the process in a nutshell) and the official one - monilial burn of stone fruits.

The consequences are really similar to a burn. The branches dry out quickly, but not all. Leaves and flowers do not fall.

If a tree is heavily infected, nearby twigs dry out, as if a fire was made under them and they were scorched. Therefore, the title contains a definition: burn.

The surviving flowers set the fruit. But spores from diseased branches fall on them.

Plums become infected if the skin is damaged: by mechanical friction against branches, insects or microcracks from temperature changes.

Close contact with a diseased fetus also causes illness in a healthy one.

On the plum, moniliosis is manifested more often by fruit rot.

With this disease, plums spoil quickly, right on the branch.

The biology of moniliosis provided for its wintering in plant fragments damaged by the disease.

If the dried "burnt" shoots have gone uncircumcised into the winter, or the mummified fruits have not been removed, this is an ideal "dormitory" for the fungus.

Wait in the spring gray rot visit - early.

In rotten plums, moniliosis hibernates both on the ground and on branches.

During spring flowering, spores will fall on the pistils, and from there they will carry out destructive work in all parts of the plant.

Plum pockets

The fruit that has set takes on a strange shape.

They stretch out in the form of sacs, do not form seeds (or form only rudimentary ones).

Plums are not like ordinary ones, they are also called puffy, and the disease is marsupial.

The length of such a bag can be about Matchbox or even more. The color remains green for a long time, then turns brown, inedible fruits dry up, fall off. The harvest is lost.

Spores overwinter on a tree, where they will be able to attach. Under the scales of the buds, in the cracks of the bark.

Infection in spring occurs through flowers, only fruits are affected.

During the season, the mushroom gives one generation, one cycle of its development passes.

Coccomycosis

Leaves and fruits are affected.

On the leaves, small spots of violet-red, sometimes brown, color are formed on top.

Their number and size - increase until the sheet is covered with spots all over.

The lower side is a platform for disputes. They are located in whitish tubercles - pads.

Affected fruits acquire an ugly shape, they are unsuitable for food.

Leaves fall off, turning yellow or turning brown. The tree leaves in winter weakened, it may not winter.

Young plums are especially vulnerable.

Fungal infection hibernates in leaves that are fallen and not harvested.

Milky shine

The beautiful name is deceiving: the disease is dangerous for the plum and often affects it.

Unusually silvery tint of leaves, air bubbles in their tissues are a characteristic sign of this plum disease.

Like all fungal misfortunes, the milky shine loves wet weather, settles in any damage to the plant.

The color of the leaf changes from damage: cavities with air are formed between the tissue and the epidermis (surface film).

The veins and the terminal border of the leaves die. On the branches and trunk appear brown spots... Later, the entire bark darkens, falls off in stripes. With the development of the disease, the leaves dry out, the tree dies.

The fungus that has settled in the tissues of the tree is active when the plum is in a dormant period.

It penetrates into wood through wounds on the bark, after pruning wintering trees - through cuts.

Poplar infection is transmitted by the unwanted neighbors of the plum. Falls into the garden with a milky shine and with planting material or through vaccinations.

Gardeners are looking for information on how to process plums, how to treat this disease.

Milky shine is not cured, only prevention is possible.

Polystygmosis

Plum also gets sick with red spot - polystygmosis.

This is another "burn", only with the definition - mushroom.

Blurred spots cover both sides of the leaf. The spots are red, pale at first. Later, the color is intense red, smooth convex glossy surface.

Above the spots are convex, below the sheet - concave. Their shape is similar to pads. The formations in the leaf tissue are dense to the touch.

In wet years, the leaves fall off in the summer - the mycelium develops quickly. In a drought, the leaf lasts longer, dark formations - spore repositories - have time to form in the concave side of the spots.

Carriers of infection are fallen leaves and leaves of nearby trees infected with polystygmosis.

Small, light, volatile spores spread easily.

Curl

The sheet is deformed, corrugated, turns yellow or reddish. Curls - hence the name.

Gradually, the leaves thicken, covered with bloom.

Shoots are also deformed, acquire a curved shape. The internodes are short and thick.

Then the leaves darken, fall off. The fruits are not set.

If the plum is not badly damaged, there are fruits, but the shape is ugly changed, the pulp is inedible.

With this disease, plums rarely overwinter.

Trees are infected with spores that hibernate under bark scales. The curl cycle begins with kidney damage.

Rust

Plum disease is widespread, especially in the south.

The specks on the sheets are located between the veins, the color is brownish, with a rusty tinge.

By autumn, the spots take the form of pillows, darken. Spores hibernate in leaf litter.

Interestingly, the original host and spread of rust is a perennial garden flower anemone (anemone).

The rhizomes of anemones are an ideal "winter hut" for the fungus.

If anemic contains a rust pathogen, yellow spore containers form underneath its leaves in spring.

There are no rust resistant plum varieties, but their susceptibility varies.

It is easier to save the Anna Shpett variety - it is not very susceptible. It also succeeds with careful prevention Renclaude green.

Sooty fungus

The leaf surface is covered with a black, soot-like bloom.

The pores of the leaf are clogged, air exchange is disrupted, the formation of chlorophyll is caused by a lack of sunlight.

The disease has a fundamental difference from others - the fungus is located superficially, erased, washed off.

After that, the plum can be completely cured by treating it with an antifungal drug.

Bacterial diseases

Bacterial spot

It appears first on the leaves in round small spots.

Later, the spots lose their roundness, they are bordered by broken dark lines. The inner part of the spots dries, crumbles, the outside, around the border, the leaf is yellowish.

Fruits have black convex spots, edged with white. As they grow, they change color to brown. The surface is scaly with a depression in the middle.

Infection penetrates through damage to the epidermis. Progresses rapidly during the warm wet season.

The disease weakens the plum, deprives the grower of the harvest.

Witch's broom

Wildly overgrown in different parts crowns thick thin twigs - not a mistake in crown formation.

This is a mycoplasma (provoked by the smallest microorganisms) disease.

They call it - the witch's broom. Fruitless "extra" branches take away a considerable part of the food, thicken the crown.

The leaves on this bunch of branches are covered with bloom from below. These are fungal spores - a breeding ground for disease.

Once upon a time, the inquisitors considered a fire to be a radical remedy for witches.

For witch brooms, and today no way has been invented - it is better. They are cut out and burned.

Noncommunicable diseases

Gum therapy (gommosis)

Plum, like all stone fruits, is prone to gum flow.

The wounds of the barrel flow out like droplets of the color and transparency of amber and freeze on it. This is how the plant tries to seal the damage.

The gum is the tears of the tree. The culprit of the disease is often the gardener himself. Careless or untimely pruning, untreated bark wounds, unhealed cracking of the stem surface - these are all reasons for the outflow of gum, the formation of hollows.

Gum removal weakens the plant. It is unable to heal the wounds, the entrance gate of the infection remains.

The risk of diseases, infection of plums with pathogenic microflora increases.

Plums affected by gommosis are stunted, depleted, and may die.

Gum therapy is the scourge of stone fruits. With this in mind, try to prevent him by careful care of the plum.

Shrinking

A disease leading to the death of a tree.

The reason is non-compliance with agricultural techniques. Stone fruits often dry out, plums are no exception.

Plum can die very quickly, a month of adverse factors (this is soaking, freezing, gum flow) is a destructive period for it.

Factors provoking drying out:

• Planted on a plot where groundwater stand high, the plum runs the risk of being flooded and getting wet. The plant dries up.
• Plum will also die on acidified or strongly alkaline soils.
• Salt marshes are also unsuitable for plums.
• The shallow root system freezes in years with severe winters.
• Heavy pruning in the fall does not give the tree time to recover for winter. It dies in winter, and sometimes "pulls" until spring, tries to wake up and immediately dries up.
• Gum removal, not stopped, not cured in time, is another factor of drying out. The plant simply expires, weakens, does not survive.

Treatment of plum diseases

It is not enough to plant, water and “feed” a tree. It is still necessary to protect him from ailments, to protect him from misfortunes. Patronize like a child.
Defense begins with site selection. Plum is thermophilic, it also loves moisture.

But the sun and a moderate blowing by a weak wind must be ensured for her, otherwise, in the dampness, the plum will overcome all kinds of diseases, especially fungal ones.

We treat plums for fungal diseases

Fungal diseases of the plum are similar both in the group and in the conditions optimal for development.

They are at ease in the gardens, where:

• The plums are planted close by;
• Poplars grow nearby;
• High standing water under the soil;
• High air humidity;
• The branches of the trees are thickened;
• Pruning is untimely or excessively strong;
• A fallen leaf is not burned, especially a sick one;
• Bark wounds are not healed;
• Mummified fruits are left in the crown.

From this list it is easy to calculate: what are the agrotechnical (mechanical) measures that eliminate the annoying fungus of various types.

• Do not thicken either the planting or the crown itself. She should be ventilated, blown by the breeze, which the fungus will not like. The sun will also dry and warm the tree, protect it from disease.
• If the milky shine of plums is not uncommon in the region, and you love both poplar by the fence and plum fruits in your garden, you will have to sacrifice one of these addictions. Which - choose for yourself.
• Do not put plums on the water. Where the water layer is close to the surface, spring floods or rains will easily kill the plant.
• A humid climate will not let you relax. You can save the drain. This will require regular inspections, preventive fungicide treatments. If necessary, medicinal.
• Take care of a living organism - a plum tree. Trim it neatly and according to the rules.
• Disinfect inventory.
• Do not take planting, grafting material in questionable places. Visit the nursery, get a guarantee of the health of the seedlings.
• Take your time and do not delay pruning. If possible, it is better to minimize it: break out excess shoots in the summer. Thin green twigs can be easily twisted without leaving wounds. After lignification, the risk of infection increases.
• Cut without hemp.
• Process the sections. You can rub them with sorrel, then paint over. Untreated, they "catch" the infection.
• Burn the cut branches.
• Remove the mummified fruits from the branches, shake off the remaining hanging leaves.
• Collect the fall leaf litter from the garden and burn with the infected material removed from the plum.
• Dig up the trunk circles, digging in the spring - repeat.

Plum plant protection products will require a minimum. But - it will require.

This is Bordeaux liquid. A good old friend, at the same time - a formidable warrior against the fungus.

Spray several times:

• In autumn, after falling leaves and cleaning the garden: the aboveground part of the plum and the near-stem circle;
• In the spring, before the opening of the kidney - "along the green cone";
• Immediately after flowering.

You can use vitriol (copper) by adding soap to its solution. Soap disinfects and increases the ability of the solution to adhere to processing surfaces (leaf, branches, trunk).

Nuances of the types of fungus. There are also features in getting rid of different types of harmful fungi:

• If there is rust on the plum, and there is an anemone in the garden, the anemone will have to be removed;
• Those sick with milky shine are uprooted and destroyed.

Fight against bacterial, viral and non-infectious diseases

All agricultural technology measures are observed to prevent infection with a fungus.

They will save you from other troubles - the ways of infection are similar.

But if fungal diseases are treated with fungicides (antifungal drugs), this method will not remove viruses. The main thing is not to bring them into the garden, to prevent plum disease.

If this happened:

• The witch's broom is cut out to healthy tissue, disinfected and painted over. The broom itself is burned.
• Having discovered a quarantine disease - smallpox, the diseased plum must be uprooted, the affected material must be burned.
• Young purchased seedlings can be warmed up - viruses cannot withstand the temperature of 46 °, which is safe for plums. Warm up by immersion in water. It takes 15 minutes to disinfect the material. Make such a bath for beginners preparing to settle in the garden, they will not carry the virus.

Non-infectious diseases (gum decay, drying out) are prevented by eliminating the factors provoking them.

As you can see, many diseases threaten our pet, so watch your garden carefully.

Take action on time, save yourself from time-consuming long-term work afterwards. In the next article, we will get acquainted with plums.

See you soon, dear readers!

Readers often ask why plant leaves wither. It happens on an apple and plum tree, on cucumbers and eggplants, on asters and strawberries, .. At first, the leaves grow normal, and suddenly they begin to fade, although the soil did not dry out.

In all cases, infections are the cause, but diseases can be different. Another thing is alarming: many do nothing! Sometimes diseased leaves (branches) are cut off and that's it! And often dry branches remain in the crown. It is unacceptable! In this case, the disease will recur from year to year!

THE ROOT OF EVIL

If vegetables and strawberries wither, then the problem is in the roots. Infections affect the vascular system of the roots, blocking the access of moisture to the leaves, which is why they wither. Eggplants and cucumbers have leaves hanging like rags. Later, they begin to dry out.

The disease can proceed very quickly, the plant dies in 3-4 days. But sometimes the process is extended over time. It all depends on the conditions (weather, care) and how "evil infection" is.

Leaves wither when fusarium and verticillary wilting... The second condition is often referred to as "wilt". The symptoms are very similar, and only professionals can distinguish between diseases. Since the roots are affected, the various diseases have been united under the general name "root rot".

The causative agents are fungi that live in the soil. If it is infected, then the plants suffer from year to year.

The infection spreads to the area with garden tool or on shoes. As a result, different cultures can be affected - strawberries, clematis, eggplants ...

Control measures. Depending on the course of the disease, leaf wilting may temporarily stop, for example, in cloudy weather and immediately after watering. Therefore, the gardener gets the impression that the plant lacks moisture. Frequent watering starts, which is a gross mistake! Waterlogging of the soil, on the contrary, accelerates the development of the disease.

Plants need to be treated. Fungicides are used against fungal infections. Of the public ones, these are MAXIM and VITAROS. The solution is watered at the root at the very beginning of the disease (when the leaves wither, but do not dry out yet). If the process is severely started, then the plant is very difficult to save. In some crops (asters, strawberries), it is better to dig out the bush along with the soil, and spill the hole with a fungicide. Do not put these plants in compost, just burn them!

In the initial stage of the disease, the plant can be cured. An example is clematis. Sometimes the aboveground part dries out completely, but the root remains alive, and the clematis grows back.

Sometimes the disease affects the plant already with fruits. It's a pity to lose such a bush, say eggplant. A chemical agents you cannot apply - they will turn into fruits.

GLIOKLADIN will help. It is a biological fungicide for the suppression of fungal infections in the soil. And again, you cannot delay treatment!

As soon as you notice that the leaves are withering and the soil is moist, immediately apply Glyocladin. 3-4 tablets under a bush to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Be sure to mulch the soil so that it does not dry out, otherwise the drug will not work.

Despite the fact that one or two plants are affected, the tablets must be placed under all the bushes so that they do not get sick. If the disease was last year, do not guess - it will be or not. Add Glyocladin

NOW!

From biologicals to healthy plants you can use Alirin, Gamair, Fi-tosporin, Fitolavin. It is an excellent prophylaxis against root rot and other fungal infections.

Grow plants on loose soil, avoid crusting. To this end, mulch the soil in the root zone.

After harvesting, disinfect the soil in the greenhouse with the same fungicides. Observe the crop change, do not plant cucumbers in the same place for two years in a row.

The infection can be brought into the garden with purchased seedlings. When planting, it is very useful to immediately shed the soil with a fungicide, and put Glyocladin tablets under the roots.

IF THE BRANCHES DIE

In spring and early summer, leaves often dry on plums, felt cherries, less often on apples and pears. At first they just wither, and then dry up and remain hanging on the branches.

Here another infection is moniliosis. By the nature of the lesion (the leaves are brown, as if burned), the disease is called a monilial burn

The causative agent is also a mushroom. Penetrates into leaves and flowers of plants through their stomata and wounds caused by insects. The infection spreads gradually: first, young shoots wither, and then the fungus penetrates deeper and deeper, affecting perennial branches.

If you do nothing, you can lose half of the tree! Sometimes large dry branches are visible in the crown for a long time. Against the background of healthy branches, they stand out with a dead brown color.

Young seedlings die completely, usually in spring, when the leaves have barely blossomed.

But the gardener hopes that the tree will revive, and does not touch the branches until next year... And this is a carrier of infection!

If you have moniliosis, don't expect the infection to develop when it kills a large branch. Start by trimming small wilted shoots. In this case, the disease can be stopped.

Control measures. When the leaves on a plum, cherry, apple tree wither, the affected branches must be cut off with the capture of a healthy part (with leaves that have not yet wilted).

After pruning, spray the plant with fungicides on based on copper Hom, Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture or Horus preparation.

Spray like this annually. in early spring, before the leaves bloom. Re-processing after flowering is also desirable. Avoid dense plantings by regularly pruning and thinning the crown.

Plum is not only delicious berries, but also a whole storehouse of useful vitamins. However, it should be noted that the cultivation of such fruit tree can hardly be called easy. Plum needs constant care, as well as other horticultural crops. In this article, we will talk about the difficulties you can face when growing plums.

Quite often, plums have such an unpleasant phenomenon as podoprevanie bark at the root collar. Such signs can occur in a tree after the winter season. In the event that the branches are dry, this indicates that the branches are frozen. Sometimes the buds dissolve the leaves and their flowering becomes quite possible, but later the branches may begin to dry out. Actually, this will be the main sign of crust podoprevanie. Plum is considered a very winter-hardy crop, so the aboveground part of the plum rarely perishes due to severe frosts. At the same time, podoprevanie bark - this phenomenon is considered quite common. All varieties, without exception, are susceptible to this phenomenon, and the result will be the death of the adduction system and the complete destruction of the links between the aboveground part and the root system. At the very beginning of spring, the aboveground part will still show signs of life, but over time it will die.

The mechanism itself for supporting the cortex is quite simple. At the very beginning of winter, due to the temperature difference, condensation will occur, at the same time the bark above the surface of the tree will become wet. Then the tree begins to decompose, this process goes very quickly. Sometimes only two days will be enough and the bark already acquires a brown hue and begins to die off.

Timely measures should be taken so that this does not happen and your tree does not die. The main preventive measure will be planting trees where there is very little or no snow before the soil freezes. In this regard, the southern parts of the site seem to be the most optimal. You should also be careful that the plantings do not become too thickened. Therefore, it is necessary to select an area where snow will accumulate in a smaller amount.

In terms of special measures, cooling the soil close to the root system of the plum is an excellent option. You can try to compact the snow layer, which will increase its thermal conductivity. In this case, the soil will cool faster and then, due to the difference in temperatures, condensation will not occur and, accordingly, such a nuisance will not occur with the bark of the tree. It is very easy to compact the snow: you just need to walk on it. However, many gardeners use and next way: with help metal containers freeze the soil, these containers should be dug into the soil near the tree. The containers should be covered with shields so that they are not covered with snow.

Another effective method the fight will be the planting of plum seedlings on special mounds from the bulk land. The trees will now rise about half a meter above the base soil. In winter, seedlings and trees will not be covered with snow. The soil itself will freeze before the beginning of winter, which will prevent the plums from becoming warm.

Many varieties of plum begin to bear fruit around the third year of life, and finish after ten to twelve years. Actually, this can happen precisely because of the bark podoprevanie, otherwise the tree could bear fruit longer. Trees can literally undermine each year, but with varying degrees of intensity. Young trees regenerate faster, so they will give good harvest... However, with age, podoprevanie bark has an increasingly destructive effect, which the plum is no longer able to fight. It should be noted that there are no such varieties that would be resistant to bark podoprevanie. Therefore, the solution to the problem will be preventive measures and vigilant care of the sink during the summer season.

Plum is considered one of the most stable and unpretentious, but it can also be attacked by disease. The first heralds that something is wrong with the plant are yellow leaves that appeared at the height of summer. The reasons may be different, therefore, it is necessary to act in each case in a special way. In order not to be mistaken, read the information below.

Pick-up location

If the tree begins to change the color of the foliage and lose it from the top, then most likely the reason for this is close occurrence of groundwater... Perhaps you took this factor into account when planting the plant, but when the plum reaches the age of five, its root system grows deep into the soil. Therefore, if for a young tree the depth of groundwater was large, adult plant can easily reach them with roots. This problem can be solved by replanting or draining the soil, or forming a hill.

Another reason, similar in manifestation and character, is frequent flooding of the site spring floods or after long rains. In this case, the tree must be transplanted to a hill.

Freshly planted plums may have yellow leaves. Perhaps the reason for this is lack of lighting... On a sunny day, look closely to see if the seedling is shaded by larger, close-growing plants or buildings. If the answer is yes, then transplant the plum immediately so that you do not have to cut down other trees later.

Lack of watering

Normally, with a lack of precipitation, an adult drain needs 6-8 buckets of water every ten days. A young tree, depending on its age, needs three to five buckets for ten days. If you pour out less water or watering less often, the tree may begin to turn yellow and dry out.

Freezing branches

Sudden temperature changes are detrimental to the tree. If with the arrival of heat you opened early root system plums, then, most likely, when spring frosts she will freeze.

If the root system of the plant is affected, then it receives less nutrients and begins to die. If the root system is damaged, you need to regularly feed the tree with fertilizers and hope that it will have enough strength to recover on its own.
Only branches can suffer from nocturnal ones - then they just need to be cut off.

So that the plum does not suffer from frost, it should be prepared more carefully for winter and the shelter should not be removed ahead of time.

Did you know? Plum in England is called the "royal fruit", as Elizabeth II eats two plums every morning before breakfast, and then proceeds to the meal.

Nutrient deficiency

With a lack of nutrients, the foliage on the tree begins to turn yellow from below. Young shoots also suffer.

With a lack of soil nitrogen foliage turns light green, then slowly turns yellow. At the same time, the gains are weak, thin. The entire tree may stop growing. Conversely, if the soil is oversaturated with this element, then the plum grows quickly, covered with dark, bumpy foliage of large size. The period of flowering and fruiting occurs with a significant delay.

If your site has sandy and sandy loam soils, then there may be a lack of magnesium... The leaves are covered with yellow or red spots between the veins. Then the leaf begins to die off from the edge, twist and wrinkle it. The tree sheds its foliage early, fruits, even green ones, begin to fall off.
If the plant lacks phosphorus, then its leaves acquire a bronze or purple hue, after which they can turn black and dry. The tree blooms poorly and for a short time. The fruits are small and tasteless.

Potash fasting leads to an imbalance in water balance. In a diseased tree, the leaf twists upward, acquires a yellow rim, then shades with blue, turns yellow, and finally turns black.

The established type of fasting is corrected by introducing the missing element into the soil.

Diseases

Diseases and pests can also significantly change the appearance of a plant.

This is a fungal disease. Spores from the soil through the damaged root system enter the tree. Growing, the mycelium clogs the tubules in the trunk through which the juice moves. As a result, the leaves are deprived of nutrition and, as a result, begin to die off. They turn yellow, curl upward and fall off.

At the first manifestations of the disease, the plum must be processed or - this is done before and after flowering. If the signs of the disease became noticeable only at the top, then the fungus, most likely, has already affected the entire plant, and it can only be cut down and burned. The land where the tree grew should be treated with disinfectants.

Did you know? In ancient times in the Czech Republic, a person who committed some bad deed went to repent to a priest. He could forgive the sin, if only the one who asks will work it out. As a rule, the practice was to plant plums near the road. Therefore, these trees are now growing along all the roads in the Balkans.

Moniliosis

Also a variety fungal disease- infects the plant through the pistils of the flower, then spreads to foliage and young branches. The disease is activated when the temperature drops from -0.6-1.5 ° C and with strong cold winds.

If blackening of the color is noticed, then immediately treat the tree, because if the flowers begin to fall, and the foliage darkens, then you will be left without a crop. Cut off the affected branches and burn them.

Video: the fight against stone fruit moniliosis

Important! If signs of moniliosis were found on one plant, treat all trees in the garden, as the fungus spreads with wind, rain, insects.

Another - usually affects foliage and shoots, sometimes occurs on fruits. Signs of the disease are small red-brown spots, which gradually increase in size and cover the entire surface of the leaf. It begins to bend like a boat, and pinkish mushroom spores are visible inside it. Gradually, the leaf dies off and falls off. If the disease has seriously affected the plum, then the spores of the fungus are also visible in the cracks in the bark.
Copper sulfate and bordeaux liquid... Both the tree and the ground around it are cultivated.

Chlorosis

With this ailment, at the height of summer, the leaves on the top of the plum turn pale yellow, then turn white and fall off. Gradually, the disease spreads to the bottom of the crown. This happens for several reasons:

• alkaline soil (a lot of manure was applied);
• calcareous soil;
• lack of iron salts;
• freezing of the root system;
• oxygen starvation of roots due to soil locking.

At the initial stage of the disease, plums can be treated with 2% or "Antichlorosin". Use Hilat to nourish the plant.

Video: more about plant chlorosis

Plum aphid

When attacked by microscopic trees, the foliage turns yellow and curls. Aphid spreads at great speed, and it is not so easy to destroy it due to the fact that it settles on the back of the leaf and deforms its edges, so the drops of poison when spraying do not reach the target.

Damaged branches must be cut off and burned, then the plant must be treated with infusion from, or with a soap-mustard solution. And in early spring, treatment should be carried out