Gardeners and summer residents, especially beginners, will find this memo useful. And not beginners at the beginning of the sowing season will not hurt to refresh their memory

The plant is returned to the place where it grew not earlier than after 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow in the same place for years. The principle of fruit rotation implies that the predecessors prepare the ground for the next plants. After plants with a shallow root system, plants with a deep root system are planted.

After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomato-potato, cucumber-pumpkin) suffer from the same diseases.

To exclude unilateral depletion of the soil, the plants alternate depending on which nutrients they demand. In a simplified form, you can alternate tops and roots (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

All crops can be planted after onions and garlic. Re-seeding onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, squash are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery are planted: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root crops and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.


The best predecessors of major vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except for salad) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;

for early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions for turnips, legumes, roots (except for radishes, turnips, radishes and swede);

for medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;

for onions on turnips - cucumber, tomato, early White cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

for cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potatoes, legumes (except for beans), root crops (except for carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

for carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except for lettuce with white rot), tomato, legumes (except for beans);

for beets - cucumber and other pumpkin seeds, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

for potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;

for tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white cabbage and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;

for garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Compatible plants:

Cherry - raspberry

It is recommended to plant eggplants among the bush beans, which repel the Colorado potato beetle.
It has a beneficial effect on eggplant - savory.

For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant the beans around the cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the planting of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Scented basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage by the bean caryopsis. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radish and oil radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard scares away the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes are biologically isolated active substances stimulating the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - scares away slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orype grass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during the period of fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill planted between the rows of cabbage improves its taste and scares away caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from earthen fleas and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
For cabbage, the proximity to cucumber grass is also favorable, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives away snails with its hard hairy leaves.
A very good companion crop for cabbage is lettuce (all kinds) It also protects it from earthen fleas.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, their strong smell masking the smell of cabbage. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks scare away the moth caterpillars.
In the aisle of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they scare away aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, white flies.
Parsnip attracts predatory insects destroying caterpillars.
Broccoli are compatible with cabbage head salad, celery onion, beets.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potato protects the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in mixed culture it is less sick with compatible plants and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best potato partners are beans, bush beans, and spinach. Beans, planted in the aisles of potatoes, enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower kohlrabi, corn, radish and different kinds lettuce, Horseradish planted with bushes has a beneficial effect on potatoes potato plot... The Colorado potato beetle is deterred by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy. Phytoncides of onions and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - phytophthora.

Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is the mainstay. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, salad. It is recommended to plant cucumbers around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with squash, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas with beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtles
Bad neighbors for corn - beetroot and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Edging of onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one - on running meter beds).
Placing onions and garlic with separate plants next to cucumbers can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberry protects the apple tree from scab, and the apple tree raspberry - from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, carrots.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heals the carrots.

Mint (lemon balm) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Strawberries are grown under sea buckthorn or medicinal herbs: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage. If you sow dill between the cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides destroy spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To scare away moth butterflies and protect pears and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;

The salad scares the earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;

A radish planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.

Beets get along well with salad, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Prefers celery in neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged by a kidney mite, if you plant an onion between the bushes and leave it in the ground for the winter.

Soybeans are friends with all cultures.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.

Beans, pumpkin and corn have long been planted together. The pumpkin slowed down the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, the corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, the beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, they relate to lighting in different ways.

Sowed between vegetables and trees spicy plants- anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between the ridges of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If a border of marigolds is made around the area on which the roses are planted, it will become impossible for the roses to be damaged by nematodes.

Parsley will drive the ants away. Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Cinerarielous tansy, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, caterpillars of cabbage scoop and whiteworm, and an apple tree - from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and similar red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

Get along with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, blackleg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray mold cloves.

Apple tree - raspberry

Celery, dill, onions, carrots are well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.



Incompatible plants:

It is not recommended to plant beans (beans, peas, soybeans) with onions and garlic. Also, the neighborhood of marigolds and wormwood is bad for beans.

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with rutabagas, beans, tomato;
Garokh and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, beans are unfavorable;

It has a bad effect on peas - bitter wormwood;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
Tansy is bad for collard greens.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkin (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes are oppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are beetroot and celery;

Currants and gooseberries should not be planted side by side (damage by gooseberry moth);

Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, it contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are suppressed with tomatoes;
Cucumbers are at odds with potatoes and aromatic herbs;

Peach oppresses cherries, pears and apple trees. They should be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head salad;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.

What to plant after what? Competent planning crops

Crop rotation table

When planning future crops, you must first take into account the order of rotation of cultures. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, the correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as preserve soil fertility. Conversely, when the same vegetables are grown for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.

Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get higher yields. In order not to get confused in the "five hundred square meters", it is worth drawing a plan of your garden for the coming summer and an approximate plan of planting on next year, observing the correct order of rotation of vegetable crops.

Cabbage

Do not plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than 2-3 years later. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; planting after beans, peas, carrots and beets is permissible.

Potato

The best precursors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A poor precursor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops share common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than -3.

Cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

According to the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to grow tomatoes after potatoes, since, again, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good precursors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root crops and onion.

If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every autumn, under deep digging of the soil, you need to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. M.), So as tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is undesirable to plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach, again beets).

Onion

Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three to four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops for which large doses have been applied organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, squash and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. On heavy clay soils, onions will not give good harvest, he prefers light, loose fertile soil and good illumination.

Garlic

You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise you cannot avoid contamination of the soil with stem nematode.

It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except for onions).

Carrot

Sowed after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

Eggplant

The best precursors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early maturing cabbage, perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

Strawberry

The best precursors for strawberries: radish, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers are not suitable as precursors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radish, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as precursors. Strawberries cannot be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.

Better together

Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested one more thing correct solution — joint landings... This is both convenient and allows you to get a large assortment of vegetables in a small area. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances secreted by plants.

Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, onions (this is even useful, since joint planting with onions scares away the carrot fly from it). Onion together with table beets, chicory, carrots. Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. TO potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn, to cucumber- dill and corn, radishes will benefit from the proximity to watercress, and peas - with mustard.

It is proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other. You can make the following bed: plant parsley, salad, and sow garlic between them.

As for the unwanted neighborhood, then can not be planted next to potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed.

Also, if space permits, highlight small plot for growing travsiderates: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. Thus, you will give the land a rest, gain strength for growing vegetables.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge. By observing the listed rules, you can get very much!

One of the most effective methods increasing yields and maintaining soil fertility is considered a crop rotation. This technique is used in natural organic crop production. Unfortunately, not all summer residents pay due attention to this, some out of ignorance, and the latter because of their unwillingness to pay a little more attention to the beds. Crop rotation requires keeping a special journal in which you need to draw a plan for placing the beds and mark each crop planted on them. Records should be kept constantly, and not everyone wants to do this.

Understanding developmental features different types cultures will help convince summer residents to pay due attention to this issue.

If negative factors accumulate in the ground for a long period of time, then you should not expect a good harvest even if the other rules of agronomy are observed.

The number of crops in crop rotations can range from three to ten. On their own plots, growers try to grow a complete list of various vegetables, in most cases the crop rotation includes up to six to seven or eight crops.

A few general rules for drawing up a crop rotation

It is impossible to make a universal crop rotation for all occasions. In order to facilitate the compilation of crop rotation for each summer resident, we will first consider general rules, and then we will talk about their application to specific crops.

1. It is forbidden for several years in a row to plant not only the same vegetables, but also plants in the same garden general view... Crop rotation within the same family is ineffective.

   

2. The longer the period of time the plant does not return to its former place of growth, the better for both it and the land.
3. When compiling a crop rotation, it is necessary to take into account the name of the mineral substances that were used by predecessors and prevent their repetition.

   

4. Leaving the land for rest in the beds free of crops is impractical. Then it is strongly recommended to use green manure - the soil not only rests and is restored, but also enriched. In addition, if desired, there is an opportunity to harvest these crops.

   

Recommended alternation considering predecessors

This is the easiest way to compose a crop rotation. But even with its help, you can significantly increase the yield. The table lists the most commonly grown vegetables and gives recommendations for acceptable predecessors.

Culture	After what crops is it recommended to sow	After what crops it is allowed to sow	After which crops can not be sown
	Siderata are ideal predecessors. Good after melons or early cabbage. It is allowed to sow after carrots, garlic and onions.	Can be sown after harvesting crops of corn, beets and mid-season cabbage.	Tomatoes, bell peppers, potatoes are prohibited as predecessors. Including eggplants of all other types are prohibited.
	It is best to choose potatoes or carrots. Not bad onions, pumpkin, garlic.	Do not sow after beets, tomatoes and peppers. Any greens (parsley, dill), eggplants and bell peppers.	Corn, it is forbidden to sow after legumes.
	Optimum potatoes and all legumes, garlic and onions. After cauliflower.	Allowed after salads, beets and legumes.	Cabbage, eggplants, tomatoes and peppers are prohibited from being predecessors.
	Seedlings are planted on potatoes, zucchini and carrots.	Greens, lettuce, tomatoes and eggplants.	Pumpkin, beets, cabbage, radishes, cucumbers. These plants can significantly reduce the yield.
	Excellent predecessors of cabbage and green manure. It's good to plant after cucumbers, squash, garlic and onions.	Corn and cabbage, beets, greens are strongly discouraged.	All nightshades, cucumbers, eggplants, bell peppers are prohibited.
	Optimal: carrots, after cabbage, carrots.	Onions, you can after bell peppers, cabbage. We accept garlic, tomatoes.	It is forbidden to plant after carrots and salads. The choice of crops is very careful.
	Onions, cabbage, salads are allowed. Pumpkin and squash can be.	All legumes, corn, bell peppers and tomatoes can be applied.	Beetroot can not be a predecessor.
	Any legumes, parsley and cabbage are great. Garlic, onions, potatoes do not have a harmful effect.	Greens, red beets are allowed.	Cannot be sown after cabbage and eggplant. Tomatoes, bell peppers, plants that use a lot of nitrogen fertilizers are undesirable.
	There can be any melons, cucumbers. If the beds are free from under the cucumbers and peas, you can occupy them.	It is possible after radishes, beets. Corn in exceptional cases.	Solanaceae, pumpkin, eggplant are undesirable.
	Very unpretentious to its predecessors. Potatoes, legumes, strawberries, garlic will do.	Salads, herbs, tomatoes and beets are allowed.	Carrots and cabbage are highly undesirable.
	Greens, salads, cucumbers and squash are like. Grows well after legumes and green manure.	Good yields after corn, cabbage, garlic and onions. There may be tomatoes, garlic.	Potatoes and tomatoes are not recommended as predecessors.
	Ideal bean, can be cucumbers, cabbage.	After garlic and onion, the yield is average.	Bell peppers, nightshades are prohibited as predecessors.
	Legumes, potatoes, cabbage are recommended. Good yield after garlic and onions.	Potatoes, salads, herbs, beets are good.	Blue eggplants, carrots, cabbage are not recommended. These include terets and tomatoes.
	Siderates and legumes are ideal precursors. Cucumbers and cabbage are acceptable options.	Eggplants, pumpkin, tomatoes, corn are allowed.	No need to sow after radishes and carrots.

Due to the fact that potatoes mostly occupy large areas, it can be excluded from the crop rotation. In some areas, it can grow up to 5 years, while you only need to change different varieties.

Additional Notes

Zucchini and eggplant perfectly inhibit the growth of weeds, they can be used as biological weeding. On the previous garden bed, plants need to be sown no earlier than three years later. It is imperative to observe the crop rotation.

1. All legumes can be planted in one place for up to three years. They are also very effective green manures.

   

2. For onions on a feather, it is better to choose a new place every year.
3. Cucumbers are very afraid of bacterial diseases; plants can be returned to their previous bed in 3-4 years.

   

4. For radishes, you should not set aside a separate bed, it grows well in the aisles.
5. Beets and carrots grow better on light soils; organic fertilizers should be applied to improve the structure.

   

Permissible combination of crops during crop rotations

On small plots, in order to increase harvest, crop rotations can be made with a combination of the following crops:

• peas can be sown together with carrots;
• completely harmonize zucchini with herbs and onions;
• sow cabbage with carrots, salads, beans;
• common onions with tomatoes, beets and carrots;
• cucumbers are combined with cabbage and legumes;
• radish perfectly coexists with legumes and carrots;
• tomatoes grow well with parsley and peas;
• red beets can be sown with onions.

For example, on one bed you can sow cucumbers with cabbage for the first year, the next year some tomatoes, after a year already carrots and onions, after which you can give the whole bed for potatoes. This is just one example, in each case you need to choose your crops depending on your needs.

What you need to know when drawing up a crop rotation

Not a single crop compatibility table can provide comprehensive answers to all questions of interest. There are no and cannot be two completely identical personal plots. In order to competently resolve issues in any situation, you need to understand the main principles of compiling crop rotations. What to look for when planning a crop rotation yourself?

Correct rotation of cultivated crops in groups

All plants can be conventionally divided into several large groups. This classification is far from scientific, but it greatly simplifies planning for ordinary summer residents. Plants are leafy, foliage is removed as a harvest, for example, salads. The second conditional type is fruit. These are not apples and plums, but cucumbers, tomatoes, etc. Another large group is root crops: potatoes, beets. And the last legumes: beans, beans.

Optimal garden cultivation: fruit vegetables - roots - legumes- leafy. Then, every year, cultures "move" to neighboring beds and so on until a full circle. It is very desirable to make one bed separately for green manure, but not every summer resident can afford it.

Rotating crops based on nutrient requirements

We have already mentioned that each crop depletes the soil in a different way, this must be taken into account when planning a crop rotation. Most of the nutrients are required for cabbage and pumpkin, then nightshades are placed, the least minerals are needed for greens. Finally, legumes enrich the soil on their own.

On their roots, special growths with bacteria are formed, in which a large amount of easily assimilable nitrogen accumulates.

Crop rotation should take into account these characteristics, cultures, for the development of which it is necessary maximum amount nutrients need to be sown after legumes. Of course, species incompatibility must also be taken into account.

What can you do in practice so that the correct crop rotation is not time-consuming and enjoyable? For joy, only one thing is needed - an increase in the yield of the beds. And to save time, there are some tips on how to correctly compose a crop rotation.

Think about what and how much you would like to grow in your beds. How many family members do you have and what they prefer to eat, what practical yield can be obtained from the beds. At the same time, do not plan as much as possible, in practice you are unlikely to be able to achieve such results. Depending on these data, roughly determine the size of the beds for each crop.

One more important point- economic. Works on personal plot should not only bring moral satisfaction but also material gain. Grow crops based on the properties of the land and climatic zone... For example, if you live in an area with a cold climate, then it is inappropriate to try to grow thermophilic plants. Not worth it because of several bell peppers or a tomato to occupy the ground. It is better to buy them in a store, and plant beets, onions, garlic, etc. on the vacated area.

Draw on a piece of paper a plan of the site with a breakdown of it into beds (taking into account the above tips). Consider the location of crops depending on the lighting conditions. Most summer residents have different fruit trees and bushes, their shade has a significant effect on growing conditions, place crops so that light-loving ones are not in the shade. Make several copies of the site plan with a breakdown by beds, there should be a plan for each year. There is no need to hope that the placement of cultures will be remembered, practice shows that this is not so.

Mark the names of the crops annually on the plan. It is advisable to indicate the yield and the amount of applied fertilizers in the context of the active ingredients. There are times when you need to change the size of the beds for certain crops. This is not a problem, just change their location, length and width on the plan.

If it becomes necessary to expand or shorten the list of vegetables, then always pay attention to the compatibility table. In doing so, it is desirable to take into account which nutrients the plants prefer and what is left in the soil after the predecessors.

To make it easier to draw up a crop rotation, it is recommended to place the plants in a certain order according to biological species according to the above recommendations, and then annually shift them by one position. The first bed will be the second, the second will be the third, and the last will be the first. Depending on the number of beds and the list of crops, the complete turnover of plants at the location occurs over several years.

We hope that the information will help to correctly compose the crop rotation and thereby increase the yield of the beds and preserve the fertility of the land.

Video - Crop rotation at their summer cottage

Crop rotation involves the sequential cultivation of different crops in the same area. For many summer residents, this causes inconvenience, and they neglect this rule. Is it so necessary to observe the crop rotation, what are the advantages it gives?

What is a crop rotation for:

1. If from year to year plant the same crop (or similar) on permanent place, then an excess amount of harmful microorganisms, bacteria and insect larvae will accumulate in the soil, which in the future will damage more cultivated plants, thereby reducing the overall yield.
2. Related plants use the same nutrients for nutrition. When re-planting (without interruption) in the same place, a similar crop will lack nutrition, which will negatively affect its development.
3. The root system of plants releases toxins into the soil, which drastically reduce the quality of the soil for related crops.

Such negative factors accumulate gradually. Without crop rotation, the soil becomes poorer every year. Even the application of fertilizers will not fully save the situation.

Crop rotation rules

First, let's look at the general rules:

• For several years, it is impossible to plant not only the same vegetables, but also related crops in the same area. For the same reason, it makes no sense to carry out crop rotation between plants belonging to the same family.
• Try to keep the crop from returning to its original place of cultivation for as long as possible.
• Do not leave unused areas that fall out of the crop rotation. Sow green manures on them to enrich the soil.

Planning should start by listing all of the annually grown vegetables you plant on your site.

In the next step, you need to calculate the number of beds that will be required for crop rotation of crops from the compiled list. It is important to find a balance here - you can plant potatoes up to 70% of the territory, and allocate only 30% for the rest of the plants. In this case, potatoes should be excluded from the crop rotation.

As practice has shown, it is most convenient to divide the garden into 4-5 parts.

Compatibility table

Culture	Predecessors
	the best	average	bad
Eggplant		cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, gingerbread, beets
Legumes	strawberries, early potatoes, cabbage (all types), zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, garlic	eggplant, greens, carrots, peppers, gingerbread, green manures, beets, tomatoes	legumes, corn
Greens	legumes, cucumbers, zucchini, early white cabbage, cauliflower, onions, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic	eggplants, greens, early potatoes, corn, pepper, gingerbread, tomatoes, beets	white cabbage medium and late ripening, carrots
Zucchini
Cabbage	legumes, zucchini, early potatoes (for medium and late varieties), onions, carrots (for medium and late varieties), cucumbers, tomatoes, green manure, beans	peas, greens, eggplant, pepper, lettuce, tomatoes	cabbage, cucumbers, radishes, beets, pumpkin
Potato	legumes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic	greens, cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, carrots, gingerbread, beets	tomatoes, peppers, eggplants
Corn	legumes, potatoes, beets	all crops except millet	millet
Onion	legumes, zucchini, early potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, green manure		greens, gingerbread, onion, garlic
Carrot	greens, cabbage, onions, zucchini, early potatoes, cucumbers, squash, gingerbread, pumpkin	eggplants, legumes, cabbage, corn, onions, peppers, radishes, beets, tomatoes, garlic	beet
Cucumbers	legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, parsley, cauliflower, corn, onion, garlic	legumes, greens, early potatoes, gingerbread, beets	eggplants, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Squash	basil, legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onion, garlic	legumes, greens, early potatoes, gingerbread, beets	eggplants, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Pepper	melons, legumes, greens, zucchini, white cabbage early varieties, cauliflower, onions, carrots, cucumbers, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic	cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, gingerbread, radish, beets	eggplants, early potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Sunflower	legumes, corn	potato	peas, tomatoes, beets, beans
Radish	legumes, potatoes, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, garlic, strawberries	eggplants, greens, corn, peppers, gingerbread, tomatoes, beets	cabbage, carrots
Beetroot	greens, zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, gingerbread, pumpkin, green manure	legumes, eggplant, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onions, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, garlic	medium and late cabbage, potatoes, beets
Tomatoes	basil, peas, greens, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, green manure	legumes, white cabbage medium and late dates ripening, corn, onion, gingerbread, beetroot, garlic	eggplants, early potatoes, peppers, tomatoes
Pumpkin	legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onion, parsley, garlic	legumes, greens, early potatoes, gingerbread, beets	eggplants, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Garlic	legumes, zucchini, early potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, green manure	eggplants, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, peppers, beets, tomatoes	greens, gingerbread, radish, onion, garlic
Strawberry	legumes, onions, radishes, carrots, garlic, dill	cabbage, corn	potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes

Successful harvests to you!

No wonder there is a saying "prepare the sleigh in the summer." The most important task for gardeners during the harvest season is to plan which vegetables to plant after which for the next summer season... It depends on which fertilizers to use in the fall, which areas to cook under winter planting.

No wonder there is a saying "prepare the sleigh in the summer." The most important task for gardeners during the harvest period is to plan which vegetables to plant after which for the next summer season. It depends on which fertilizers to use in the fall, which areas to prepare for winter planting. The key to maximum productivity and fertility is crop rotation. If you change the planting sites of different crops correctly and regularly, then each plant will receive required amount microelements, as a result of which it will bear fruit well. Let's take a closer look at what to plant after which, so that every year is fruitful.

We plan competently

It is not news that the constant planting of the same crops in the same places leads to a deterioration in the yield. This is explained by several factors:

• accumulation of harmful microorganisms, pests. For example, if you plant potatoes from year to year in the same place, Colorado beetles do not migrate, and immediately after hibernation they begin to destroy the plant. In addition, because of the potato, late blight pathogens accumulate in the soil layers, and the larvae of beetles and moths multiply.

  The situation is identical with the rest of the plants. The only difference is the lack or excess of harmful factors. In areas where the same plants constantly grow, pests that are dangerous for this particular species accumulate, therefore, the chances of survival for the culture are sharply reduced. This situation is especially typical for tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes, beans, salads, celery;

• concentration harmful substances secreted by the root system of the plant. Colins are toxic to crops. Some plants are especially sensitive to the effects of poisons (beets, spinach), for others, their influence is not so harmful (legumes, corn). Depending on the type of culture, the amount of excreted colins is different. They are especially large in places where cucumbers, carrots, cabbage grow;
• reducing the amount of micronutrients. For good growth and development, each culture needs its own individual supply of trace elements. If the cabbage is constantly planted in one place, the soil will be low in potassium.

Deal with these harmful factors it is possible, thanks to the alternation of crops year after year. This is called a crop rotation. In order not to delve into long explanations and scientific justifications, we will give the fundamental principles (rules) of crop rotation, following which will lead to a bountiful harvest:

• do not plant representatives of the same plant species in the same place for several years in a row. As a rule, they have common pests, an identical reaction to toxins and the composition of consumed micronutrients;
• for full recovery and the soil needs at least two years of rest. After planting some plants (carrots, cucumbers, parsley), at least 4 years should pass, and after cabbage - about 7 years. This period may increase, but not decrease;
• besides consumption, plants saturate the soil with microelements. Correct alternation will help to improve the structure and composition of chernozem, without special fertilization. So, thanks to legumes, the soil becomes looser, filled with minerals. Melon and buckwheat are added to the composition of calcium, datura grass - phosphorus, tobacco - potassium, nettle - iron. Considering such nuances and knowing the need certain types crops, it is easy to plan, provide places for planting and ensure your own yield. In addition, these crop properties should be taken into account when preparing the compost.

  The same rule applies to pests. Some cultures are simply not afraid of diseases and their pathogens. For example, aphids cannot reproduce where tobacco or garlic grows. The Colorado potato beetle bypasses thyme. If these plants are planted in areas where there are especially a lot of pests, then you can quickly get rid of them for several seasons;

• each plant needs its own individual supply of microelements for growth. Crops that are especially demanding on the composition of black soil are not recommended to be planted one after another. It will be more advisable to plant legumes, or fertilize the soil and leave it to "rest".

The alternation of different crops will avoid depletion of the soil, the reproduction of harmful insects and bacteria, and will also provide an even load on the soil of different root systems.

Another important factor for changing the planting site of different crops is weed control. For example, onions, garlic, carrots, parsley are best planted in place of plants, after which there is a minimum amount of weeds. These are tomatoes, legumes, cabbage.

What then to plant in the garden. table

Crop rotation allows you to preserve the soil, saturate it with the necessary microelements, and ensure yield. Since every plant needs its own set nutrients, let's figure out what to plant for what and with what frequency. Correct organization landing will allow:

• reduce the number of pests;
• reduce the population of harmful insects and pathogenic bacteria;
• improve the composition of the soil, increase the amount of nutrients;
• use fertilizers correctly;
• minimize Negative influence mineral fertilizers;
• increase productivity.

The table provides a list of crops that are recommended or not recommended for planting in the same area.

Let's consider each example separately.

Can you plant after cabbage?

Cabbage is often exposed to diseases and becomes the target of many pests. The worst decision that can be made on your part is to plant cabbage next year at last year's place. You should not plant radish, rutabagas, turnips after cabbage, since they are a favorite delicacy for the same pests. Ideal option for planting cabbage in place will be: carrots, potatoes, beets, tomatoes, celery, perennial grasses and even winter wheat. They are also excellent neighbors, next to which cabbage is less susceptible to disease and pest attacks. It is not recommended to plant beans or parsley next to it. If you don't know where to plant cabbage, then potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, onions, garlic, and annual herbs will be good predecessors.

What to plant after garlic?

Garlic, like many other plants, is not recommended to be planted in the same places. After it, it is good to plant early potatoes, green manures, cucumbers, legumes; planting tomatoes, beets or cabbage is permissible. The most the best option planting is annual grasses that will restore the soil, fill it with minerals and remove weeds. It can be mustard, peas, rapeseed, rye, etc.

What to plant after cucumbers?

Cucumber is a rather demanding crop, especially to the soil composition. Before planting it, the soil must be fertilized with both organic and mineral mixtures... Therefore, after them you need to plant less picky crops, for example: legumes, winter grasses, potatoes, beets, carrots, celery. It is better to alternate cucumbers with legumes, as this will help fill the soil and give it a rest. Knowing the finicky culture, it is important to understand after which you can plant cucumbers. Ideal precursors are root vegetables, legumes, and annual grasses.

Important! To make the soil fertile, compost and mineral fertilizers are not enough. It is necessary to create a natural complex of microorganisms and organic substances.

We focused on the exactingness and selectivity of culture, therefore, to the question of whether it is possible to plant cucumbers after cucumbers, the answer is unequivocal and categorical - no!

What can you plant after strawberries?

The soil where strawberries are planted is depleted very quickly, so it is recommended to replant the berries every four years. After transplanting, the empty bed must be well fed with organic matter and mineral fertilizers... It is better to start fertilizing in the fall, after digging. In place of the berry, it is good to plant legumes that are able to fill the soil with the missing nitrogen. Garlic will cleanse the soil of fungi, and the greens will drive the slugs off the site. The list of possible crops for planting after strawberries is very small, but a year after fertilization and rest, any vegetables and pumpkin crops will grow well in its place.

Important! It is not recommended to plant raspberries in the place of strawberries, since the pests of these crops are the same.

It is useful to plant perennial flowers (peonies, daffodils, tulips, violets) on the former strawberry garden; they will quickly restore the depleted soil. Then plant the strawberries? The berry will bear fruit perfectly in place of radishes, legumes, mustard, herbs, garlic.

What to plant after potatoes?

Potatoes need a lot of potassium and phosphorus for good growth, so it is these elements that the soil lacks after harvest. You can make up for their shortage with mineral fertilizers, or by planting annual grasses. Datura is perfect for this - grass, peas, rapeseed, mustard, oats. If there is no possibility of completely freeing the site, then pumpkin, cabbage or cucumbers can be planted in place of the potatoes. Other crops will not bear fruit well.

It is good to plant potatoes after cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage or onions.

Then plant the tomatoes?

The most favorite and most common vegetable requires alternating planting for a rich harvest. Tomatoes and related species (melons, nightshades) are prone to the same diseases, which is why they should not be planted in the neighborhood and alternate with each other. Tomatoes will bear fruit well in place of pumpkins, beets, herbs, cucumbers. You should not plant seedlings where there were potatoes, peppers, nightshades, physalis. After the tomatoes, the soil is ideally planted annual plants, which will help fill the soil with the necessary elements.

What to plant after onions?

It is not advisable to plant onions, like garlic, in one place for two years in a row. Annual grasses, green manures, cucumbers, early potatoes and legumes will grow best after it. Onions will take root well in the place of melons and gourds, root vegetables, tomatoes, peppers.

Then plant the carrots?

The role of plants that grew up to carrots is very large, since the root crop is sensitive to soil composition and fertilizers. For example, after organic fertilization, it is recommended to plant carrots after two years. Potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, herbs, and onions are considered the best predecessors of root crops. It is not recommended to plant carrots after carrots, as the soil is depleted and each subsequent harvest will get worse.

Then plant the beets?

The choice of crops after which you can plant beets is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other types of nightshades are ideal as predecessors. However, the soil must be pre-fertilized before planting. Peat or humus is suitable as a fertilizer. This list can be supplemented with cabbage, zucchini cucumbers and herbs.

Then plant the pepper?

The pepper root system occupies the upper layers of the soil, it is quite picky about the planting site and predecessors. You should also consider the type of pepper, so Bell pepper grows well and bears fruit after cucumbers, squash, carrots. Pungent will grow well after legumes, squash. In addition, some plants are neutral, that is, they do not promote, but do not harm the growth of pepper. These are cabbage, beets, corn and spices. To exclude soil depletion and yield deterioration, it is not recommended to plant pepper after pepper, regardless of its variety.

Then plant the zucchini?

Zucchini, like all pumpkin seeds, are unpretentious to the soil. They can be planted in any area, the only thing that really matters to them is the presence of sun and water. To get a rich harvest of zucchini, it is better to plant them in place of legumes, onions, root crops and greens.

Cultures in the neighborhood

Equally important for getting a good harvest is understanding what and after what should not be planted, as well as what crops can or should not be planted next to each other. Plants, interacting with each other, can have both negative and positive impact on the neighbors. Knowing the rules, you can provide yourself with a good and stable harvest for many years. As already indicated, in the process of life root system the plants produce colins, which can serve as a poison or additional fertilizer for other crops. For example, mustard colins are very good for peas, carrots and garlic, but bad for cabbage.

What is better to plant next to?

Joint planting is a key rule of crop rotation, which allows you to maximize the use of a small area of ​​the site, to increase yields. Potatoes and beans will be great neighbors. It eliminates the caryopsis, it - replenishes the lack of nitrogen, scares Colorado beetles... In addition to beans, cabbage, corn, greens, eggplants, carrots, and radishes will be excellent neighbors for potatoes. All of them have a beneficial effect on the yield of potatoes, take away excess moisture. If you plant onions or garlic near the potatoes, then this will become reliable protection against late blight.

Speaking of garlic, we note that it is a good neighbor for many other crops. The classic version it is considered planting garlic and strawberries nearby. He will protect her from diseases and pests, and she is the key to a large head and a large number cloves. Carrot enzymes have the same effect on garlic. The combination of garlic with horseradish increases the amount of vitamin C in both crops.

In general, garlic is a reliable protector from the bear, May beetle, aphids; it saves vegetables and flowers. In turn, garlic from onion fly protect chicory, calendula.

You can always plant corn or dill near cucumbers, carrots will be good with peas, and peas - near tomatoes, potatoes and eggplants. Melons are best planted separately.

Inconvenient neighborhood

In addition to the useful, there is a harmful and undesirable neighborhood. As a rule, this is due to the incompatibility of substances that are secreted by different plants. For example, the juglone secreted by black walnuts inhibits the growth of most vegetables. The neighborhood of wormwood is very useful for vegetables. If onions are planted next to legumes, both crops will bear poor fruit. If you want to plant fennel, then you need to do this separately from the rest of the plants. It is not profitable to plant potatoes, cucumbers and strawberries nearby. Tomatoes with eggplants do not tolerate the neighborhood of nightshades, it is difficult to get along with pepper and beets, cabbage with strawberries.

It happens that the influence of one plant on another is determined by their number, then it is better to arrange the neighborhood with small "doses", for example, by fencing a garden bed. Planting valerian, yarrow or nettle in small quantities can increase the yield of some vegetables. the main task every gardener - to exclude depletion of the soil and ensure the correct crop rotation, then the harvest will be good and the land in excellent condition.