Linseed oil for wood helps to improve appearance wood, protect the finished wooden product from drying out and cracking, to give the wooden base a water-repellent property and extend the life of the finished product.

Flax oil properties

Wood treatment with linseed oil is used as a decorative coating on the surface of facades. wooden houses, doors, furniture, for weapon butts, etc.

Impregnation of wood with linseed oil increases the chances of wood to last longer, enhance its protective properties from dirt and water. Coating wood with linseed oil makes it possible to give the surface any shades, highlight the relief and texture of wood. In addition, the oil coating protects the tree from mold and fungal infections.

Linseed oil for wood processing is used both in production and at home. Hunters especially widely use butt impregnation with linseed oil, which is prepared using the following technology:

1. Only wooden parts are impregnated, therefore, before starting the procedure, all metal parts are separated from the wood.
2. If the stock is treated with linseed oil for the first time, the oil is heated so that it turns into drying oil. To do this, pour 50 ml of oil into tin can or a saucepan with a lid and heat it well, taking care of safety measures. Before starting each subsequent impregnation, the oil is heated until white smoke appears.
3. If the weapon is old, its stock should be sanded with sandpaper. If you are young, this is not necessary.
4. With acetone, remove the entire upper layer stains.
5. Then the entire surface of the wooden base is impregnated with linseed oil several times. The oil should go approximately 150 ml.

Hunters carry out this procedure before the start of the opening of the hunting season 3-4 weeks in advance so that the butt absorbs the oil well. When the butt is already completely dry, they pass over it with the following mixture: resin of the fruit tree, beeswax, turpentine in equal proportions is heated in a water bath. Lubricate the butt with this mixture 2 times, and then, after drying, polish the surface.

The product after such treatment, despite the dense coating layer, still breathes, while enhancing its water-repellent properties. Multi-layer coating will make it possible to maintain a stable shade for a long period of time.

The advantage of this method is also its safety for human skin. Linseed oil is not capable of causing allergic reactions on the skin, unlike some types of paints and varnishes.

Types of impregnations

Impregnation of the knife handle with linseed oil is carried out in the same way as for a gun butt. There are standard requirements for wood processing and flax oil coating:

1. The most common is a two-layer linseed oil impregnation, which requires natural drying in the open air.
2. When using flax oil with additives, impregnation should be carried out according to the instructions.
3. Before impregnation, the surface to be treated must be cleaned of the previous coating, the oiled surface must be sanded.
4. Before use, the oil is boiled to speed up the drying process of the impregnation.
5. The oil is applied along the grain of the wood in a rubbing motion to ensure the best penetration of the oil into the crevices.
6. Excess oil is removed with a rag 1-2 hours after application.
7. Wax is used for polishing.

Linseed oil for wood is polymerized in order to obtain more elastic and water-resistant films. The polymerization of linseed oil occurs as a result of heating it without oxygen at a temperature of 300 degrees. To prevent oxidation, the oil is heated in an atmosphere of carbon dioxide, passing it constantly through the oil. Carbon dioxide displaces air, fills the space above the oil, isolating it from air. When the temperature rises, the moisture evaporates. For quick removal Moisture oil is kept for some time at 150 degrees.

Technical oil

In addition to food varieties of linseed oil, linseed technical oil is widely used. A rare natural composition easily polymerizes in air and creates a thin and durable film that protects against corrosion, moisture and pests. That's why linseed oil are used so widely - from burnishing metals to creating high-quality Supplies for artists.

Huge volumes of technical linseed oil are used in construction: high-quality drying oil is obtained from it. It surpasses the products of chemical synthesis in many respects, and has no equal in terms of safety of use.

Linseed oil for wood is used in construction as an impregnation for wooden surfaces in saunas, baths, as well as all other types of buildings made from log cabins. Linseed bath oil is an excellent material for impregnating the surface, thanks to which it acquires a protective coating that prevents moisture from penetrating into the deeper layers of wood. Due to this, the tree does not dry out when high temperatures ah, it does not deform, does not rot, and over time, fungal accumulations are not deposited in the wood.

When finishing the bath from the inside, before applying layers of finishing varnish to the log cabins, the surface is well impregnated with technical linseed oil. In this way, wooden frame covered with a protective layer on all sides, which significantly extends its service life.

Flaxseed oil has gained great popularity for artwork. They are diluted oil paints and varnishes. In addition, linseed oil can be used to clean brushes. Unlike the solvent and turpentine that are used for this purpose, linseed oil is odorless and very affordable.

Parquet captivates with its naturalness and gives the interior a special flavor. But any surface natural materials falls into disrepair without proper treatment.

One of the common methods of protection is the coating of wood with oil. The substance penetrates deep into the fibers and impregnates the surface structure over the entire area. This method is suitable for both common types of wood (oak, walnut, ash) and exotic ones.

Png" alt="(!LANG:Over time, the varnish cracks, but the oil in perfect condition" width="550" height="205" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/lakmaslo..png 300w" sizes="(max- width: 550px) 100vw, 550px">

Over time, the varnish cracks, but the oil is always in perfect condition.

The main advantage of the oil is its environmental friendliness, so the interior items impregnated with it can be safely placed in the children's room. Many people believe that wood treated with such a tool contributes to the treatment of diseases of the respiratory system, due to the fact that it "breathes" and fills the room with healing smells.

Why is oil better than varnish?

Wood oil coating has a number of advantages compared to, which is also often used for impregnation.

1. The lack of a shiny film that appears on lacquered finish. The surface looks more natural, and the oil only emphasizes the color of the material.
2. The wood treated with this tool is resistant to abrasion, high humidity and temperature fluctuations. Over time, the surface does not crack, and does not exfoliate. Damage and scratches are almost invisible.
3. or furniture becomes soft and velvety, not the same as.
4. The oil penetrates deeper into the wood, therefore, its protective properties are higher.
5. Impregnation protects from moisture, but at the same time, leaves the pores of the material open, preserving its useful qualities.
6. The coating is based on plant and natural components, which ensures its naturalness.
7. If a fragment is damaged, it is not necessary to restore the entire surface.

Disadvantages of oil coating

Such impregnation has not only advantages, it also has several disadvantages;

• preparatory work should be carried out with special care, the floor must be polished with a special machine;
• the surface must be washed frequently and periodically treated with a protective oil or wax;
• furniture or floor treated with oil cannot be varnished in the future, it simply will not be taken on oiled wood;
• greasy stains cannot be washed off or removed with a rag, they will only be removed by re-impregnation.

Oil application technology

Wood oiling can be done in two ways: cold or hot. The first option is simpler, in the second the degree of absorption is much higher. Everyone chooses the right one depending on the application, microclimatic conditions and their own preferences.

cold technology

Finishing should begin immediately and cleaning when the pores of the tree are open. This will ensure quick absorption and deeper penetration of the oil:

• if the surface is made of pine, birch or fir, it must be treated with an alkaline solution so that the material does not darken;
• the first oil layer is applied with a spatula, and it is better to make it thin;
• after 5–10 minutes, the excess should be removed with a rag;
• then the coating is polished with a special machine with a beige pad, after which the surface must be wiped with a cotton cloth;
• the product is absorbed in an average of 12 hours. During this time, you need to monitor the appearance of oil drops and remove them to avoid the formation of an unattractive crust;
• the second layer is applied and polished by machine;
• if necessary, a third layer can be applied and polished. It all depends on the degree of absorbency of wood, the higher it is, the more stages of work.

Jpg" alt="(!LANG: Surface treatment by polishing machine after oil application" width="552" height="414" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/renew01..jpg 300w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/renew01-768x576..jpg 174w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/renew01-70x53.jpg 70w" sizes="(max-width: 552px) 100vw, 552px">!}

Building materials, finished structures and household items made of natural untreated wood must be coated with special protective compounds, otherwise they will not last long. Used for many years simple and reliable way wood oil treatment. But modern industry produces so many varieties of oils and impregnations with oils in their composition that it is easy to get confused in them. But there are also 100% edible vegetable oils, such as sunflower, linseed ... Maybe they are better, more authentic?

Let's figure out what criteria to choose wood oil in each case.

We decide what we need from oil

Oils for processing and impregnating wood can be classified according to the following criteria:

1. Purpose - for outdoor or internal works, for which types of wood, only for protection or even to give a shade.
2. Composition - natural or synthetic, how many additives are in it.
3. Drying ability.

Oil protective coating is treated with:

• Wooden products used for cooking: kitchen boards, spatulas, spoons, bowls, etc.
• wooden furniture and household items that should be safe: cribs, wooden toys.
• Wooden surfaces to protect against moisture, abrasion and pests.

Therefore, the composition of impregnations varies from completely vegetable to chemical - from an industrial laboratory.

First on entry human body and skin contact are safe, and when working with some synthetic oils, it is necessary to wear a protective mask. The manufacturer indicates the precautions for handling the product on the label.

For the processing of products used for cooking, 100% vegetable oils "from the table" and industrial safe high-quality impregnations are used.

All natural vegetable oils dry out (polymerize) slowly - about a week, or even longer. Therefore, in construction and repair, ready-made industrial compounds are more often used. They dry out in a few hours.

The content of natural oils and other ingredients in them varies depending on the tasks: protection from moisture, pests, shine, etc. So, G-Nature natural oil contains linseed, tung oil, rosin, wax. They can process countertops, cutting boards. And Osmo UV-schutz-Ol is used for garden furniture, it protects the wood from sun rays.

Natural oils harden into different dates. Sunflower polymerizes longer than others, it is sometimes called semi-drying. And there are oils that do not dry out at all, such as castor oil.

Popular oils for indoor and outdoor use:

• mineral;
• linen;
• woody;
• coconut;
• from several components.

Mineral oil

Mineral wood oil has the following characteristics:

• easy to apply;
• it is colorless in itself, but together with various additives it gives the surface a certain shade;
• without taste and smell;
• has high protective properties;
• dries quickly;
• compatible with other coatings.

This synthetic oil is a product of petroleum processing, but already so familiar to humans and used in different areas life (cosmetology, Food Industry, medicine), that there have been no complaints about its origin for a long time. Accordingly, it can be food and non-food.

The most famous is Vaseline and Vaseline oil based on it. True, it does not dry out and is used mainly as a lubricant, and not for wood processing.

Wooden kitchen utensils, countertops, furniture in most cases, the manufacturer covers with mineral oil for food use. It is not difficult to find such oil on sale: in hardware stores big choice mineral oils for all types of finishing works.

Linseed oil

Since ancient times, wooden products have been processed with linseed oil.

This oil has one of the best protective characteristics, not only from external natural influences, but also from pests. Plus, it gives the tree a beautiful noble shade, does not require heating before application, although this is not forbidden.

The only unpleasant moment in working with linseed oil is a specific smell that does not go away for a long time even after grinding and washing the product.

Exotic coconut oil is unusual for a Russian person to process wood, but it is worth taking a closer look at it. If only because it has a pleasant tasty smell, gives the product a strong shine and, judging by the reviews, it practically does not go rancid, so coconut oil can be recommended primarily for kitchen utensils.

Want to get rid of the smell of linseed oil after impregnating wood with it? Treat the product with another layer of coconut oil.

Whether the oil is suitable for processing any wood is unknown. The practice of its application is still small, not least due to the fact that coconut oil for wood is very difficult to find on sale.

Tung oil

Another exotic, but proven product for thousands of years. Tung (or wood) oil was used to treat wood back in Ancient China. The main advantage is that it gives the products increased strength. Therefore, tung oil is ideal for outdoor work and treatment of large surfaces: walls, floors, doors, but can also be used for small kitchen items.

Everything has already been invented before us: the perfect mix of oils

In its pure form, oils for wood processing, even natural ones, are rarely used. To improve their quality:

• heated - natural drying oil is obtained from linseed oil in this way - it is better and faster absorbed, it becomes stronger;
• mixed with wax - for a better water-repellent effect and shine;
• add turpentine, solvent, even tar.

But then it’s worth taking natural oils for work, so that they can then be diluted with chemicals, if they are on sale. ready-made formulations with the required features?

In well-known brands G-Nature, Osmo, manufacturers use synthetic additives in strictly adjusted proportions, mix natural oils so that the benefits of all ingredients appear in the resulting mix. A single composition acquires improved characteristics.

The secrets of wood processing are passed on from generation to generation by craftsmen, for example, furniture makers and manufacturers musical instruments they know several ways to protect wood, which have been around for many years: wood treatment with linseed oil, wax, oil and varnish. All three materials require a carefully prepared surface. A tree that is pre-sanded and tarred. Sanding paper with granules is used for grinding by hand. different sizes if you work with a grinder, then you will need grinding wheels with different grain sizes.

First, grind with coarse-grained devices, and then the size of the granules should decrease. Well polished wood conifers it is necessary to remove the resin so that the resin that comes out does not spoil the surface during subsequent manipulations. Wood processing technology allows the use of alcohol, white spirit, acetone, gasoline, turpentine or nitro solvents. In cases of serious tarring, this part of the surface is cut out, and another piece of wood is glued in its place. In addition, alkali resin is well removed, which is applied to the tree in hot form, and then washed off and the wooden surface is treated with acetic acid dissolved in water in a ratio of 1/50 to remove residual alkaline solutions. Once the wood surfaces have been sanded and deresined, they must dry before you can further coat them with protective compounds.

Traditional ways of protecting wood Waxing by hand Waxing by hand Waxing technology has changed little in hundreds of years. Manual waxing is done with a cloth, which takes a piece of wax and rubs it into a wooden surface, for a similar technique, soft types wax. Hard wax is heated in a water bath and applied to the wood with a brush. For waxing furniture, the first method is used, in all other cases, the second is used. Oil treatment is used for outdoor and indoor work. No one uses pure oil; drying oil is made from it.

Lacquering is one of the final decorative coatings wood, but at the same time, the varnish performs a certain protective function: Firstly, it protects the surface from scratches and chips. Secondly, it fills the pores and prevents the development of any microorganisms in them. Thirdly, it preserves the aesthetic appearance of the tree for a long time.

Other options for protecting wood Wooden structures can suffer not only from bark beetle or mold, but also from fire. In order to reduce the risk of accidental fires from a spark flying out of the oven or a short circuit in the electrical wiring, wooden details are treated with special protective impregnations - flame retardants. Fire retardant treatment allows you to apply any varnishes or paints to the tree after drying.

To apply such impregnations, the wood must be dry and clean, any stains, as well as old coatings, must first be removed. Issued different kinds fire-retardant impregnations, which give the treated surfaces 1 or 2 class of fire resistance. The compositions are applied with the help of brushes, spray guns, and if the structure can be disassembled, then individual parts can be soaked in impregnation baths.

To protect against water, there are also their own ways of processing wood. For example, coating with any varnishes or paints will protect wooden structures from decay, but there are also special water-repellent impregnations - azure. What it is? These are glazing compositions that combine impregnation and transparent varnish, but, unlike the latter, do not leave a hard surface layer, but form an elastic film of a matte, semi-matte or semi-gloss texture. Azures are water-based, oil based, on white spirit, the former are more often used indoors, the latter are suitable for outdoor use. To change the shade, tinting compounds are added to the azure. In addition to the base and shade, azure is also divided by density, in order to beautifully cover vertical wooden surfaces, it is better to take azure high density- thixotropic, because it will not sag.

Varnish or oil - which coating parquet board more practical to use?
The topic of this article did not come about by accident. Our customers are becoming more and more aware of "sexual matters" and many already know that there is more than just varnish for parquet flooring. There is also oil treatment, which has significant advantages over polymer coatings.

Now we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Oil treatment of wood has been considered traditional for many centuries, and only in the 20th and current 21st centuries has it been unfairly forgotten. In Moscow and other European capitals, there are a lot of buildings and objects where parquet, treated with oil, is still lying, the age of which is over 200, and sometimes even 300 years. Is this possible with lacquered parquet? No, history has no such data. The majesty of time itself confirms that wood treated with oil becomes more resistant to mechanical damage and harder. To make it clearer to you, let's remember about exotic woods such as merbau, jatoba, campas. These rocks contain a large number of oil substances, and nature did this so that during the dry summer, the wood does not dry out, giving off moisture. Merbau, jatoba, kempas and wenge (exotic oil-bearing species) have wood hardness 50% higher than that of the hardest European species - oak. By treating wood with oil instead of varnish, you make it harder and much less susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. This is just a small practical confirmation that wood under oil has a radically more quality characteristics than varnished wood.

Now consider practical examples the behavior of a solid or parquet board under oil in the conditions of modern operation.

The varnished board is strictly forbidden to be used in rooms where the temperature drops below 15 degrees. But the board under oil is not afraid of these unfavorable conditions. Why is this happening?

Photo wood oil treatment

Lacquer is a polymer film that is applied to upper part wood without penetrating into its pores. Imagine polish on a woman's nails - the analogy is 100 percent: the polish protects the surface of the nail and makes it more aesthetic. This is where the benefits end. The nail does not breathe under the varnish, and after a while, it needs to be allowed to recover. The floor covering under the varnish also does not breathe. With changes in humidity and temperature in the room, the tree, trying to acquire the same humidity characteristics as the room, begins to expand and contract: all this happens directly under the varnish itself. That is why the cracking of a parquet board under varnish is significantly higher than that of a board under oil. The deformation of the upper layer of varnish due to the fact that the lower layer of wood is movable occurs quite quickly. It is recommended to restore the parquet board under varnish every 10 years. To do this, you need to take out all the furniture from the room, sand the board, removing the old varnish, and apply a new one.

The situation is completely different with oil-coated wood. Given the fact that the oil is deeply absorbed into the pores and does not prevent the entire board from breathing, there is almost no splitting. The board, without any tension whatsoever, moves freely and changes its shape. Oil treatment protects the board from moisture and can be washed with a damp cloth without fear of destroying the top layer. Feel free to use it in the kitchen, hallway and other "wet" areas. A tree under oil practically does not require restoration, it just needs care. To do this, acquiring parquet or massive board under oil, get a care product. A bottle of such a product costs no more than 800 rubles and it lasts for a very long time: 1.5-2 years. Add one capful of product to a bucket of water, and your flooring will be "restored" every cleaning. Each such cleaning will refresh your floors, making them more and more attractive each time.

Well, what if we ruined our board by spilling a bottle of red wine on it? - you ask. Nothing terrible will happen if you do not leave the wine to dry, but immediately remove it. Well, what if the unforeseen happened, and the wine dried up? In this case, visit the nearest store with parquet chemistry, purchase 2 bottles of special agents: one will clean the stain, the second will restore the appearance. And note that for restoration you do not need to scrape and change the entire floor in the room: this can be done locally! Moreover, many oil flooring companies have special teams that will come and do all the work themselves at your call. Is there such a service for varnished parquet board manufacturers? No, he is missing.

And last question which may confuse you. Dust, you say. Oil absorbs dust. Yes exactly. The oil absorbs the dust and the care product removes the dust. And it cannot be otherwise. On any flooring dust must be removed either with a vacuum cleaner or with a wet cleaning.

Do not forget also that oil coating is the most environmentally friendly and natural: no acids, formaldehydes and polymers that are in varnish. American therapists also advise using such floors at home, as the oil retains the natural texture of wood and the surface acquires a gentle silk effect.

Features of the correct waxing of wood

It is important to emphasize the texture of wood with an appropriate finish. Of course, now there are a lot of chemical stains and varnishes on a different basis. They have their advantages, but there are also significant drawbacks, the main of which is unnaturalness and toxicity. There are situations when varnishes and stains are generally unacceptable. For example, in the manufacture of wooden spoons or dishes.

Natural bees or vegetable wax
1) harmless to health,
2) emphasizes the beauty and shows the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the surface of the wood treated with wax becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, besides it breathes, unlike varnishing,
4) the tree acquires a noble matte sheen that does not hurt the eyes,
5) has an excellent smell.
Wood must be impregnated before waxing. The simplest impregnation is vegetable oil, better of course linseed. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then polished.

On the basis of linseed oil, impregnating compositions on herbs and roots (angelica root, burdock, elecampane, galangal) are often prepared. The tannins contained in the plants pass into the oil and, when processed, strengthen its surface layers.

mint oil

Here is a recipe for peppermint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:

100 g of dried crushed mint leaves are poured into a glass container, poured into 0.5 liters of vegetable oil, shaken and sent for 2 weeks in a dark place. Then it is filtered and used.

After the tree is treated with wax mastic. The simplest wax mastic is made from wax and turpentine in a 2:1 ratio, or oil and wax in a 2:1 ratio (this is for food products). Here is another recipe for how to make wax mastic:
We take 100 g of wax, 25 g of crushed rosin and 50 g of purified turpentine.

In a water bath, melt the wax in an enameled container, add rosin. After the wax dissolves, gradually add turpentine. I add a little more propolis, it strengthens the wood and gives extra flavor. Remove everything from the heat, pour into a tin jar and let the composition cool. The mastic becomes thick and pasty:

She rubs the product and rubs it with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and shine appears.

Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.

Apart from beeswax often used carnauba wax, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree. In hot weather, it releases a wax that coats the surface of the leaf and protects against moisture loss.

Carnauba wax has a higher melting point and is therefore more stable than bees. But also 3 times more expensive.

Advice:

I have tried using a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil for waxing.
We heat the wax in a water bath. After the wax has melted, add linseed oil and mix well.

Proportions:

Wax-oil 4-1, 2-1 - the mastic turns out to be hard - similar to hard wax, but with a "fat" tint.

Wax-oil 1-4, 1-2 - this mastic is obtained in the form of a semi-thick paste. The more oil, the more creamy the mastic will turn out. It must be stored in an airtight jar. Before use, we climb into the jar with a cloth and, having collected a little mastic, we polish the product on the machine. I use this mastic for waxing complex profiles(sour cream climbs everywhere).

Mastic based on "Wax-oil" - relatively safe for "food" products (jars, vases for cookies). Why I call it relatively safe - I just think that in our age of allergies, sooner or later there will be a person in whom your product will cause allergies. I personally know a person with an allergy to linseed oil :)

But it should be recognized that the wax and oil components of the mastic are the most environmentally friendly and are suitable for processing products that will come into contact with products.
Try mixing the wax with other oils - maybe you like something more.

Going further - you can infuse the oil before mixing on the roots and herbs (infuse for about 2 weeks).
For the sake of interest, I once prepared a mastic infused with juniper sawdust and roots - when a linden is covered with such a mastic, a gentle juniper smell comes from it (a familiar carpenter was puzzled at first :)). Also, various herbs and roots often change the shade of the coated product - in general, an unlimited springboard for creativity.

Linseed oil can be bought in many pharmacies - it is the cheapest there. Oil that is sold in art salons - I do not recommend using it for food products.
I prefer to buy wax "at the grandmother's market". Once I bought wax in the market (in the form of molds) - something is not right.

Also, products can be coated simply with a piece of wax - apply wax to a rotating product - rub it well, and then polish it with cotton, woolen or linen

Linseed oil

Also in Ancient Rus' craftsmen began to impregnate the wood with oil in order to improve its properties. With the help of linseed oil, they impregnated wooden spoons thereby extending their service life. And today, wood impregnation oil is one of the the best means such as lacquer.

There is finishing and primary processing of wood. During the primary treatment, the tree is impregnated with an antiseptic, which protects it from the occurrence of microorganisms that can have a destructive effect. Finishing impregnation is used with varnishes, oils or glazing agents. It is when finishing that it is extremely important to choose the right tool so that in the future your building can stand as long as possible. Wood oil, especially linseed oil, is able to penetrate perfectly into the logs, giving them a satiny, beautiful sheen, with its help you can even get the “antique effect”. Often, special preparations are also added to wood oil that can protect it from bad weather and enhance the properties of wood.

The oil is recommended to be used during finishing log cabins, which are used for the construction of a bath. In this case, preparations containing oil as their basis are practically indispensable, since such a tree will have to literally come into contact with the human body. The composition of oils intended for steam bath treatment includes natural resins and linseed oil, as well as pine turpentine. On the floor, this oil is able to form a durable thin layer which is not afraid of human sweat, water and high temperatures. Oil consumption for such impregnation is approximately 10 square meters per liter.

In addition, this colorless linseed oil is great for processing shelves and the entire bath room as a whole. Before starting wood processing, it is necessary to make sure that the humidity in the room is 80%, and the humidity of the wood is not more than 21%. The tree must be dry, cleaned in advance of dirt, fungi and mold. If necessary, you can make a primer on the surface that you are going to process. If the wood has previously been varnished or painted, then oil cannot be used.

Before processing, linseed oil must be thoroughly mixed, and it must not be diluted with water. Apply it to the wood carefully, using a simple cloth or brush. The oil that has not been absorbed into the wood should be removed. The oil is applied to the wood in two layers. The oil dries rather slowly, about a week, while the drying period directly depends on the quality of the treated wood and weather conditions.

Wood shavings and brushes, rags that have come into contact with linseed oil should be kept in a bucket of water, as spontaneous combustion is possible. It is best to destroy them immediately after impregnation is completed. The remains of linseed oil must not be poured into the ground, natural reservoirs and sewers.

Wood is environmentally friendly and safe material requiring due attention and care throughout the entire period of operation.

Impregnation of wood with natural oil is the easiest and most effective method protect it from destruction, decay, damage by mold and pathogens.

Wood has high hydrophilic properties, which lead to drying out and damage to the surface.

In order to avoid such troubles in the future, experts recommend treating the tree with vegetable oils, which, under the influence of sunlight and oxygen, turn into a solid protective coating. They quickly penetrate wood fibers and reliably protect them from negative impact various factors.

The main reasons why coverage oil formulations has the meaning:

• On wooden surfaces, mechanical damage is not noticeable, which can lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of the coating;
• Processing with such compositions makes the surface pleasant to the touch, allowing it to maintain its original structure;
• Natural oils give wooden surfaces an attractive glossy shine, eliminating tarnishing and burnout;
• Impregnation with linseed oil provides effective damage to fungal spores. Impregnation reliably closes the pores, which prevents water from entering them.

Benefits of oils

In hardware stores, a huge number of protective compounds for wood are presented - oils, stains, varnishes, and waxes.

The most popular and effective for the impregnation of wooden surfaces are protective oil and wax. They have powerful waterproofing characteristics, while being completely safe and environmentally friendly.

Oils have the following benefits:

• Contains only environmentally friendly components;
• Provide reliable closing of small wood pores;
• Possess high water-repellent, wear-resistant properties;
• Give wooden surfaces an attractive appearance;
• Increase the life of the tree;
• Well applied and quickly restored;
• Do not exfoliate, do not peel off, do not deform;
• Do not change the natural color of the tree;
• Well cleaned from pollution;
• They have good value for money.

Despite the obvious advantages, oil impregnations have some disadvantages. Thus, oiled wood surfaces require more attention than lacquered surfaces. Every 4 months they need to be covered with a fresh layer of oil.

Oil treatment does not prevent the appearance greasy spots, which are difficult to remove with improvised means.

Types of oils for wood, their choice

For wooden surfaces various types natural and artificial oils are used.

Vegetable oils are natural ingredients, processed by chemical means, to obtain an effective protective composition. They are divided into three categories:

• Drying - poppy, walnut, wood, perilla, niger, linen, hemp, tar and others;
• Semi-drying - sunflower, rapeseed, cotton and others;
• Non-drying - castor, olive, palm, almond and others.

artificial protective compounds are made with the addition of various chemical components that are designed to improve the wear-resistant characteristics of a wooden coating.

Linseed and hemp oils are most in demand for tree protection, which are distinguished by a high content of glyceride compounds of linoleic and linolenic acids.

To choose the right oil for wood, first you need to determine whether the impregnation corresponds to the type and density of the wood.

The best option for most types of wood are universal oil formulations that have an extended spectrum of action. Some impregnations have a slight coloring effect on wood flooring, thereby giving it a deep rich hue.

Surface preparation for processing

Before proceeding with the impregnation of wood with an oil composition, the surface should be prepared - thoroughly cleaned of dust, sanded and polished.

If the wood is damaged by mold or pathogens, the surface requires cleaning, disinfection, treatment with a deep penetration antibacterial primer. The treated base or parts must be left to dry completely.

The grinding of the base is carried out using sandpaper fine or medium grain, the resulting dust is cleaned with a soft brush or clean rags. The old paint layer is previously removed with simple solvents and a scraper.

The finished surface must be smooth, without defects and damage. This is necessary in order to ensure better adhesion of the impregnation to the wood.

The process of applying impregnation to wood is carried out in several stages with technological breaks of 1.5-2 hours each.

To apply the impregnation, it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

• Oil composition;
• Wax;
• Small capacity;
• wide brush;
• Soft clean rags;
• Fine grit sandpaper.

In any hardware store can be purchased special formulations for wood, linseed oil is recommended. To accelerate the hardening, it is additionally recommended to use wax. Work on the impregnation of surfaces with compounds and wax is carried out as follows:

1. To obtain an oil product in different containers, it is necessary to heat the wax and linseed oil. Combine the finished components and mix thoroughly.
2. Apply the warm mass evenly with a brush on the treated surface along the wood fibers. Repeat the procedure 4-5 times. Depending on the type of wood, the procedure can be carried out in several approaches. The minimum interval between oil coats is 1.5 hours.
3. The coating is cleaned of excess oil with a clean rag until the impregnation hardens. With a little effort, the rag must be pressed against the surface in order to remove the resulting roughness of the wood fibers.
4. Leave the surface treated with compounds and wax until completely dry for 2-3 days.
5. After drying, the coating should be polished to a matte sheen.

Important! If linseed oil contains polyurethane components, then no need to add wax. Some wooden substrates can only be treated with wax.

Wood drying is carried out in a ventilated room or on the street. During drying, the treated surface must be protected from moisture, dust and direct sunlight.

Subsequent work with bases, treated compounds and wax should be postponed for 7-10 days.

• Any wooden base can be treated with oil compounds and wax. In this case, the moisture content of wood should be no more than 14%. If the surface treatment process is carried out indoors, then the air humidity should not exceed 70%, for outdoor work it is better to choose a good sunny day.
• Coatings with rapid wear are recommended to be treated up to 4 times a year, bases with a slight mechanical impact - no more than 1 time in 2 years.
• Linseed oil and wax treatments are not performed on painted or lacquered substrates.
• Unused linseed oil and wax can be stored in a cool place at a constant temperature of 0 degrees.
• Valuable wood species are recommended to be treated with linen-based wax.
• For impregnation of external wooden bases and elements, pure linseed oil without auxiliary additives is suitable, which has pronounced moisture and dirt-repellent characteristics. For internal surfaces You can also use wax.
• High-quality impregnation with linseed oil can be performed in two ways - rubbing and soaking. Rubbing the composition is done with a sponge or brush along the fibers. This method is suitable for large bases. For small items and elements, soaking can be used. AT this case the product is immersed in a container with a protective agent for a couple of hours or days. After the impregnation is completed, the wood is left to dry completely.
• For reliable protection of wood, it is better to use oil and wax, not varnish. Lacquer coating susceptible to mechanical damage, cracks and chips, which can cause swelling and decay of wood. Unlike varnish, linen protective agent and wax penetrate deep into the fibers, preventing cracks and protecting the wood from environmental negative factors. In addition, the composition gives the base a rich shade and an attractive natural shine.

Timely impregnation with oil formulations will provide high-quality and reliable protection wooden bases throughout the entire service life.