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How to prepare a wooden cutting board for use? How many have asked this question?

My own experience and the study of very contradictory information on this issue on the Internet prompted me to write this article.

Cutting boards are expendable materials... Their operating conditions are very harsh by definition. You can, of course, do nothing and immediately put the board into work. But it will not last long, 6-12 months. And some high-quality wooden planks are not cheap ...

Many of you have heard and read that wooden dishes soak in vegetable oil before use. Most often they recommend sunflower, olive, linseed, palm, grape seed, hemp, teak and the like.

I want to warn everyone who wants to use this method!

Wood impregnation with vegetable oil is one of the ancient ways processing it. This has been done from time immemorial, but this method has two significant drawbacks for a modern inhabitant of a metropolis.

The fact is that vegetable oils

They dry for a long time and retain their fluidity, "staining" other objects with which they come into contact;

The oil in the pores of the wood will turn rancid, and the product will have a rich, but unpleasant bouquet of odors, which are almost impossible to get rid of.

So, to increase the lifespan, increase the stability of the board, protect against bacteria and give a beautiful appearance cutting boards recommend processing mineral oil. Mineral oil is a product of petroleum refining and has neither taste nor smell.

You can buy mineral oil suitable for food purposes in shops selling wooden cutting boards, I saw at IKEA. But the most accessible mineral oil for everyone is sold in every pharmacy - this is petroleum jelly.

So let's get started! Wash the board and dry it. Run your hand over the board, if it seems rough, treat the board with a shallow sandpaper №№ 600, 400.

Mineral oil should be simply poured onto a cutting board and rubbed over the entire surface with a soft cloth or hand. It is necessary to process all surfaces of the board, including the side ones. Do not be afraid to "pour" the oil - the wood will absorb as much as needed.

The new board must be processed several times (from two to five with a break of about 6 hours between treatments). Remove any oil that has not been absorbed in the finishing layer with a paper towel.

Perhaps after the first layer of oil, the wood fibers will rise. Go over them with fine sandpaper No. 600-400.

A more advanced and "long lasting" method of treating the board is to coat it with a mixture of vaseline oil and beeswax. Prepare the mixture in a water bath: heat the vaseline oil, put pieces of beeswax in it in a ratio of 1 part wax / 4 parts oil.
Cool the mixture and apply it on the board from all sides with a brush or cloth, polish with a clean dry cloth.
You can buy natural wax from familiar beekeepers, in honey markets, in online stores selling ingredients for soap making and cosmetics.

About 3 times a year, the board must be impregnated with mineral oil again. Any wooden utensils can be processed in this way. Therefore, the butter you bought will not be wasted.

In conclusion, I want to advise those who find the method described by me difficult, an innovation - simple flexible silicone cutting boards. They are lightweight, non-slip, wash well, do not absorb odors, do not stain from the juice of fruits and vegetables, do not blunt knives. It is convenient to store them by simply rolling them up into a tube. Often they are not called boards, but cutting rugs.

Silicone cutting mats are very convenient for preparing a wide variety of dishes; ideal for rolling and cutting dough.

Wash them warm water with liquid detergent by hand with soft sponges; do not use abrasive detergents... All silicone products can be washed in dishwasher... They can withstand temperatures from -40 to +230 degrees.

You are the proud owner of a beautiful wood cutting board. It's time to learn how to care for her to extend her life for many years. Correct care at the cutting board will prevent cracks, mold and germs. It doesn't matter if the board is new or old.

When you buy a new cutting board, immediately coat the wood surface with oil to protect it from moisture, bacteria, and food odors. This procedure should be repeated regularly as the oil dries. The oil fills the pores of the wood and prevents the penetration of liquids and food particles.

What kind of oil can i use?

Any oil that meets two requirements is suitable: safety for humans (for ingestion) and resistance to spoilage at room temperature. Please note that vegetable oil (for example, sunflower and olive oil) does not meet the second requirement, since they deteriorate over time, regardless of the degree of their purification. A cutting board soaked in such oil acquires an unpleasant smell of rancid spoiled oil after 1-2 years. It is impossible to get rid of this smell, and the board will have to be thrown away.

Mineral oil

It is best to use for prevention mineral oil that you can buy in our store. Mineral oil is odorless and tasteless. It is absolutely safe for humans.

Wipe the board with mineral oil and let it soak, then remove the remaining oil with a dry, clean cloth. Do not be afraid to apply too much oil - in this case, the bigger, the better. Wipe your board down at least once a month.

Beeswax

Beeswax is often added to mineral oil to add body. For centuries, wax has been used as a sealant to protect against moisture in baskets, textiles, food storage, and more. perishable food as well as for wood care. Wax increases moisture resistance (although it still does not waterproof the wood) and helps protect the cutting board from wear and water. The wax remains on the surface, filling the pores and crevices, while the oil is absorbed into the wood and cannot create such protective film... A layer of wax prevents moisture, bacteria and dirt particles from entering wooden surface... In addition, after treatment with wax, the board becomes smooth and pleasant to the touch, acquires a delicate and pleasant aroma.

You can also buy beeswax and mineral oil ointment for boards in our store. In consistency, it is similar to butter... Apply a layer of ointment to the board, rub it with a dry cloth, then let it dry for a while and then polish the board to a shine.

Other means

For prevention, you can use a number of vegetable oils, which have a very high price, but, of course, are beneficial to health. Coconut and flaxseed oils contain a large number of saturated fats, so that they do not deteriorate for years. They do not need to be refrigerated, but direct sunlight should be avoided.

Disinfection

All cutting boards, regardless of their type, require regular cleaning and disinfection. Below are some of the recommended chopping board maintenance options.

Hot water + detergent

Scientific research has shown that this is the most optimal method for disinfecting any cutting board.

Any surfactant-based detergent can be used, such as dishwashing detergent or liquid soap. Disinfectants based on surfactants remove any contamination along with bacteria, and at the same time are absolutely safe for humans. An important factor is that these products do not corrode metals.

The cleaning procedure is slightly different for large and small cutting boards. If the board will fit in a sink, clean it with detergent and hot water tap, then rinse and wipe dry.

You cannot place a large board in the sink and wash it under running water, so it must be cleaned in the same way as, for example, dinner table- using a damp sponge and detergent. Remember to wipe the board dry at the end and make sure there is no moisture left under the board (especially if it is without legs).

NEVER immerse a wooden chopping board in a sink filled with water or wash in a dishwasher. The water will penetrate the pores of the wood, and after drying, the board will begin to crack. Exceptions are boards from composite materials or water-repellent wood (hevea).

Vinegar

After use, the cutting board can be wiped clean with colorless table vinegar. The acetic acid found in food vinegar effectively kills disease-causing bacteria (Escherichia coli, Salmonella and Staphylococcus aureus). People who are allergic to other disinfectants prefer to use vinegar.

The vinegar is conveniently stored in a spray bottle. This will allow you to easily clean and disinfect the surface of the board. After finishing the board, let it dry well.

Unfortunately, acetic acid breaks down fats, including those found in board prevention oils. Therefore, after using the vinegar, we recommend re-treating the surface of the board with mineral oil or ointment.

Hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide is an effective means of fighting bacteria on the surface of a cutting board. The board must first be thoroughly washed (peroxide is ineffective on a dirty surface), and then wiped with a cloth soaked in 3% hydrogen peroxide solution (if necessary, you can dilute it with water).

Bath cleaner

Most effective means disinfection - chlorine. These are bath and toilet cleaners and bleaches. Working with them requires utmost care and protective equipment, since contact with the eyes and mucous membranes should not be allowed.

Be extremely careful! Wear rubber gloves and goggles when handling. Good ventilation is imperative due to unpleasant odors.

Dilute the detergent in water (one teaspoon per liter of water). For the disinfectant solution to work effectively, the surface must be clean. Pour the solution onto a board, wait a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly and air dry or use paper towels.

NEVER combine chlorine-based cleaners with others (this will create toxic chloroform if combined with vinegar). They are also extremely corrosive, so keep your knives away.

• To remove the smell of garlic, onion or fish, there are three easy ways: lemon, coarse salt and soda. Rub something on the surface of the board, wait a few minutes, brush off the remains, rinse and dry the board.
• Always clean the board thoroughly after cutting fish, meat and game.
• Keep your board dry while you are not using it. Without moisture, bacteria die within a few hours. Moisture and liquids of all types should not be present on the surface of the board for a long time. If the board has no legs and you store it horizontally on the countertop, always make sure that water does not collect under the board.
• Do not leave the cutting board near a heat source (stove, radiator) unless the necessary insulation is installed. Wood hard rocks high temperature is contraindicated.
• Do not drill the board, grind holes, or otherwise damage the surface without reprocessing the wood.
• Do not use only one place on the surface for cutting. Distribute the work on the board to ensure even wear.
• Do not use a sharpened cleaver - it can split wood.
• Do not wash knives, forks, or other utensils on the work surface of the cutting board.

Video

When choosing a finish, the overwhelming majority of craftsmen give preference to compositions from natural components, primarily oils. There are many options for how to soak new board, but practice shows that the most effective solution in this matter is the use of petroleum jelly, which is not difficult to find in a pharmacy.

An alternative to vaseline oil can be vegetable analogues, in particular, nut or linseed oil... But, despite the environmental friendliness and simplicity of such a finish, over time it can transmit food in contact with wooden board, unpleasant rancid odor. Covering the product with linseed, vaseline or any other oil, you will have to periodically renew the impregnation, which will wear out as the board is used.

How to oil a cutting board?

The impregnation oil is applied to a well-sanded and dried surface. Evenly distributing an abundant amount of the finishing compound with a brush or tampon, it is given the opportunity to soak into the structure of the wood (15-20 minutes), after which the excess is wiped off by running the tampon along the fibers.

A new wooden cutting board is processed in at least two to three layers. Each fresh layer of oil is applied after the previous one has completely dried. This is not very convenient because vegetable oils pretty low. Dry the boards in a well-ventilated area.

Are other finishing compounds hazardous to health?

This question still provokes heated discussions, despite the fact that unambiguous and authoritative answers have been given to it for a long time. For wood products in contact with food, you can use any finishing compound, including oil, polyurethane and nitrocellulose varnishes, shellac coatings and linseed oil. These materials are completely harmless to health, but only after complete drying. This is a very important point!

Before you start using a kitchen board that you decide to paint with one of these compounds, you need to make sure that the coating is completely cured. Remember that the presence of a surface film does not mean that the composition is completely dry inside the wood.

How to keep the attractiveness of the finish?

By following these simple instructions, your cutting board will retain its visual appeal. long years.

1. After use, wash the product well with warm water, using as little detergent as possible. Wipe off the remaining moisture without special diligence and do not allow the board to remain in the water for a long time.
2. The finish of the kitchen board needs to be updated periodically. Outer layer"Refresh" as they wear, usually once every 4-5 months, depending on the intensity of use of the product. By controlling the condition of the protective layer, you protect the board from cracking, swelling, and mold formation, while maintaining its visual appeal.
3. When the working side of the board is badly damaged by the knives, it is sanded and re-finished.

Turning a cutting board into a spectacular decor

Inspired by the ideas in our gallery, you can create a product that is from the usual household utensils turn into original decor for your kitchen. Such an expressive and functional piece of furniture will become a spectacular gift, to which no housewife will remain indifferent.

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There are cutting boards in my kitchen and wooden spoons have lost their former shine, and began to look a little dry. Plus, the spouse washes them in the dishwasher, as a result of which cracks began to appear on them.

Asking about the return of its former beauty, I heard about "Soviet butter" and decided to apply this recipe in my own kitchen.

Step 1. Ingredients

• Wax... I needed quality beeswax. I found it on the market in the form of small granules. There was an option to buy from a local beekeeper, but I didn't like its color - it was too dark.

Pay attention to the composition: you need beeswax that is not mixed with paraffin or other cheaper waxes. Pure beeswax has antibacterial properties, for which it is prized. It can also be bought in one piece and grated.

• Mineral oil I bought it at the pharmacy for 60 rubles. The options for oils from hardware stores are not suitable.

Do not use olive oil or coconut oil as it will eventually turn rancid and mineral oil will not. I still do not recommend purchasing ready-made oils for impregnation. kitchen utensils as it is not certain that they are suitable for food surfaces.

• Glass jar: I used a 200 ml jar, which was large enough to handle all the wood products I had, and even had a little to spare. I chose a jar with a screw cap in advance.
• Measuring spoon: A tablespoon works well. If the jar has a narrow neck, you can use a teaspoon, the main thing is to observe the proportions.

Step 2. Mix and melt

The recipes I've found usually mix one part beeswax with three parts mineral oil. For my kitchen utensils, I used 2 tablespoons of beeswax and 6 tablespoons of mineral oil.

How to melt beeswax and mineral oil?

• Option 1. Place the jar in a pot of water on the stove (make sure the water level is lower than the edge of the jar - it should only submerge half or a little more) and bring the water to a boil. Remember to stir the contents of the jar periodically until the beeswax and mineral oil have melted together.
• Option 2. Place the jar in the microwave and heat for 30 seconds, then stir. Repeat the 30 second heating and stirring process until the beeswax and mineral oil have melted together.

After the ingredients are melted, you must carefully remove the jar from the pan or microwave oven using a towel or a hot pot holder (be careful - the jar will be very hot) and let it cool to room temperature.

Step 3. Applying the composition to wood products

Make sure the wood surface is clean and dry.

I scooped up a tablespoon of butter for a medium-sized cutting board and spread it all over the surface with my hands. The warmth of the hands melted the oil, and it absorbed well into the wood.

Then I left the treated wooden utensils for 12 hours so that they could absorb the oil well.

The next day I used soft tissue(can paper towel) to remove from the surface anything that has not been absorbed (but usually the oil is completely absorbed). The result should be a pleasant one, smooth surface with a slight sheen.

The remaining oil (closed with a lid, of course) can be stored at room temperature for a long time, for example, for the next processing.

Natural wood is undoubtedly the leader among the materials for building a house. The absolute environmental friendliness of wood, high aesthetics and simply unlimited possibilities of use - all this reveals the secret of the popularity of the material for many centuries. However, wood is not without a number of disadvantages. First of all, it is a weak level of resistance to negative external factors. That is why the question of how to treat wood and boards from decay is extremely important for all connoisseurs of the natural and natural.

How to treat wood and boards from decay

The processes of biological destruction of wood, or rotting, is a rather unpleasant process, which, unfortunately, is inherent in this material. Decay processes begin to emerge and accelerate:

• At high air humidity;
• At high humidity of the feedstock;
• When there is no good ventilation;
• With temperature drops;
• When condensation builds up;
• During the freezing of the material;
• With frequent contact with moist soil.

Best applied preventive measures even during the harvesting and storage of wood.

During storage, the moisture content of the wood decreases, so it is advisable to use a tree that has been felled. Previously, such a technique was used: they chopped down a tree in the winter in order to start construction in the summer. At the present time, there is no need to withstand such a long period. Technological measures are used to protect wood.

Anti-rotting treatment of wood includes protecting the wood from moisture penetrating through the pores. This can be done with a good waterproofing layer, against moisture contained in the atmosphere - by painting with a special paint and a good roof. High-quality thermal insulation and vapor barrier coating, pre-equipped ventilation will protect from condensation.

In addition, you need to place wooden structure buildings are much higher than the ground level. In addition, the ends of the log wall should be sheathed with boards and treated with a special tool. But first things first.

To wood product for many years has pleased you with aesthetic characteristics and reliable design experts advise to carry out preventive processing of the material at the manufacturing stage.

Products for processing wood from decay

Modern methods of combating decay processes involve processing with special means:

• The ends can be treated with Senezh TOP;
• The walls can be covered with a special Senezh NEO agent, which will protect it from moisture penetration;
• You can also apply finishing layer finishes like Senezh Aquadecor.

Attention. The last time negative reviews about Senezh products are becoming more frequent. When choosing a product, consult several points of sale.

All these methods in their complex combination will help protect wood from decay. What impregnation for wood decay is better to choose is up to you, you need to be based on the type of wood and its operating conditions.

End processing Senezh TOP video:

Fire retardant wood treatment

Wood, unfortunately, is a highly flammable material. You can protect it from fire by applying special means... They are best combined with wood antiseptic treatment. The best conditions for wood impregnation are:

• Not high humidity wood (up to 25%);
• The temperature of the impregnation itself is about 60-85 ° C;
• Applying impregnation to specially made tattoos.

Previously, buildings in the private sector were not exposed to fire treatment. Currently such preventive treatment practiced. In such cases, it is possible to cover the surface with special refractory materials; a simple impregnation is often used. saline solutions... In the second case, when fire hits the surface, the salt begins to melt and creates a film that can stop the fire.

Fire-fighting means are divided into:

• Passive ones create a film on the surface of the tree. Good protection against fire is impregnation with compounds formed on the basis of ammonium sulfates and phosphates, boric acid and borax. The advantages of borax and boric acid are that they have an additional antiseptic effect. When fire hits the surface, the salt begins to melt, creating a film that can stop the fire.
• Active agents not only cut off oxygen access. BUT and contribute to a decrease in temperature, emit non-combustible gases, prevent the release of tar and combustible gases.

You can prepare a means for impregnating wood at home according to the recipe given in the video.

Means for protecting wood from fires, or fire retardants, can be:

• Senezh OGNEBIO;
• Neomid 450;
• Pirilax;
• Valti Pohjusti.

Processing is carried out by means of the above means in several layers.

• Antiseptic treatment
• Conservation

Both methods involve the use of special chemical substances... Antiseptic treatment means applying a special substance - an antiseptic by hand, with a brush or roller. And conservation - only in the factory by soaking raw materials in special baths, as well as autoclaving.

Antiseptics are of several types. Their use is mandatory in cases where mold has already begun to appear. They are:

• Water soluble. Completely environmentally friendly, do not possess unpleasant odor and dry quickly. Excellent for surface treatment of walls, floors, ceilings, windows and doors. It is not recommended to use them for wood that has constant contact with water.
• Water repellent. They have rather pungent odors, but a deeper level of penetration. Perfect for baths, saunas, basements and cellars.
• Volatile. They cover the wood with a thick film that takes a long time to dry. Perfect for both interior and facade processing.
• On oil based... They are water insoluble and also create a strong film. They can only be used for impregnating dry wood. Not recommended for residential use.
• On a combined basis. Perfect for any kind of wood. They have not only antiseptic, but also fire-retardant properties.

Specific means

The following products are excellent for protecting wood from mold:

• "Woody healer". Suitable for all types of wood, regardless of the level of damage. Non-toxic and completely safe.
• "Biox" - belongs to the class of protective and textured coatings. It protects the wood from mold and also enhances the texture of the wood. It can be both colored and transparent.
• "Biosept" - is considered one of the better means... It can be applied both inside and outside. It is based on a new generation of biocides. The product is absolutely environmentally friendly, reliable and safe.
• Aquatex is perfect for planed and sawn surfaces (for example, doubles, poitus, platbands and much more).
• Pinotex is also excellent for almost any type of wood, does not fade and perfectly protects.
• "Elkon" is available in several varieties, differing in their characteristics. It is used outdoors and indoors. Used to apply to freshly processed material.
• Potato-compound. You can see its characteristics in the video.

Recommendations for the choice of means for processing wood from decay

Before choosing an impregnation in the store, depending on the operating conditions of the wood, pay attention to the following characteristics:

Does the impregnation corrode the metal? This quality must be taken into account if further connection with metal fasteners is expected.

1. The duration of the impregnation on wood.

How deeply the impregnation penetrates into the wood. Is it suitable for rooms with high humidity.

How environmentally friendly the impregnation is. Is it possible to use it inside living quarters or places where animals live?

Whether the impregnation is designed to counteract the appearance of fungus.

2. Is it possible to apply this impregnation in rooms with temperature changes.

An unpleasant odor is not emitted from the treated surface during temperature changes or suspended humidity.

These questions can be asked to the representative of the merchant organization. All information is placed in the instructions attached to the materials.

Coating rules

To apply protective covering no special knowledge and skills are required. These works can be done independently. Before starting work, pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Stock up on protective equipment such as a mask, gloves and goggles.
2. In the process, you will need the following tools: a brush, wire brush, detergents, sandpaper and a scraper.
3. Inspect the wood itself before starting work. Cracks on its surface indicate the need for treatment.
4. The optimal time for performing work is considered to be a temperature of 20-25 0 C. It is allowed to start work at 10 0 C, and not higher than 40 0 ​​C. It is strictly forbidden to work off a frozen tree.

If the wood has been previously treated or coated, all traces on the surface must be cleaned and removed.

Perform preparatory work and processing in the following sequence:

1. Remove dirt and old coatings from wood with a solvent or scraper.
2. Sand the surface and remove dirt with a detergent solution.
3. Create conditions for the wood to dry completely.
4. When applied protective equipment Special attention give to end surfaces, joints, cuts.
5. In case of recoating, carry out the work at least three hours later.

It will take at least 48 hours for the coating to dry completely. The time may vary depending on the temperature, humidity in the room.

Processing a log house with an antiseptic video

Traditional methods of wood protection

There are also popular methods of protecting wood without chemicals from fires. This is the preparation of a solution based on clay, salt and water. The proportion of its preparation is as follows:

• Clay - 75 parts;
• Salt - 5 parts;
• Water - 20 parts.

All this mixture is diluted to a thick mass and applied in several layers. Also among folk remedies a coating prepared on the basis of superphosphates is popular. The mixture is made according to the ratio of water and superphosphate 25 to 75. It is applied in the same way in two or three layers.

Important: such a coating tends to harden after 5-6 hours, so the prepared composition must be used during this period, otherwise it will become unusable.

The problem of how to treat wood and boards from decay has been of interest to people for a long time. And over the years, many have accumulated folk methods protecting wood from biodegradation. So, what to do with the tree so as not to rot:

Conclusion

Protective equipment is selected individually. Terraces, gazebos, rafters and subfloors are treated with stubborn solutions. If there is very high humidity in the premises, then products with an extremely reliable level of protection are used. You should also consider:

• Room temperature;
• Operating conditions;
• The term of the funds;
• Finishing appearance.

You need to choose the means and methods based on your own needs and preferences.

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