Good afternoon. After the winter, around the beginning of May, I was faced with the problem of the destruction of the basement of the house on summer cottage. In some places, cracks up to 2-3 cm deep were found. Somewhere the outer concrete surface has partially or completely collapsed. The house was built more than 5 years ago. The main material for building a house is foam block and sand-lime brick. The type of foundation is strip. When laying the foundation, waterproofing and a soft blind area were installed. Tell me, what is the reason for such serious collapses of the basement, because last year everything was in order? What methods and approaches can be used to restore a damaged surface? How to repair a basement brick house without contacting construction companies?

Hello. When spring comes, the described problem occurs especially often. In your case, what should you pay attention to? close attention- this is the service life of the structure and the severity of the problems that arise.

That is, damage and defects caused by external factors that arise without your participation began to appear already 5 years after the building was put into operation. This is a short period of time. From this we can conclude that some mistakes may have been made or some nuances may not have been taken into account during the construction of the building.

Additionally, I would like to know the type of base. This does not play a particularly big role, but it can make some adjustments to repair it. We will assume that the base structure is protruding or is in the same plane with load-bearing wall. We do not take into account the sinking base, since it is erected quite rarely, although it is a more reliable solution.

Main types basement structures during the construction of private and country houses

To the main reasons and possible problems Damage to the basement of the building includes the following points:

• shrinkage of a building is a natural process that occurs and depends on the type of foundation, design and weight of the building. Average term shrinkage – 1-1.5 years. With heaving and soft types of soil, the process may take 1.5-2 years. The noticeability of shrinkage is most pronounced in brick and private houses made of heavy materials;
• soil type – heaving and clayey types of soil used as a basis for building a house may require time for compaction and settlement. Sandy soil differs in rather rapid settlement, which largely depends on the size of sand grains and the level groundwater. Settlement of clay soil proceeds somewhat more slowly due to the high density of the soil;
• high groundwater level - the level of occurrence is determined at the design stage of the building. Partially affects the type of foundation, the depth of the load-bearing foundation and the implementation of additional insulation work. Ignoring the burial level can lead to a decrease in the service life of the foundation, flooding and general damage to load-bearing elements;
• poor-quality blind area - failure to comply with the installation technology can lead to flooding of the basement of the house, damage to the foundation and plinth. The type of structure is selected based on the occurrence of groundwater, soil type and load-bearing foundation;
• problems with communications - damage and leakage of the central water supply with further enrichment of the soil with moisture can cause destruction of the supporting foundation, flooding of the basement and ground floor;
• non-compliance with technology - carrying out work without taking into account building codes and rules is the root cause of most of the problems and damages that occur. The absence of such construction work, as well as the foundation, quickly leads to the formation of cracks, chips and general destruction of these elements.

Repair of the basement for private and country houses should be carried out only after the causes of the damage have been identified and eliminated. Otherwise, after repairing and restoring the damaged areas, the problem will not disappear, which will lead to the formation of new, even more serious flaws.

Determining the causes of deformation

Based on the fact that in your case, during the construction of a private house, the foundation was insulated and no flooding of the basement and basement was noticed, we can conclude that the damage to the building’s basement was caused by moisture penetration through the soft blind area.

Damage may be different character– from simple cracks to complete collapse of the structure

This type of adjacent structure does not meet all requirements and provides a rather low level of protection. In most cases, soft look is being built as decorative element with limited protective functions.

Most likely, you thought that the waterproofing of the base was sufficient to protect the foundation from moisture. But in practice it turned out somewhat differently - the blind area, which should prevent and remove moisture from the load-bearing base part, did not cope with the assigned task.

Perhaps the problem is more pronounced, but without inspecting the structure and additional information, it is difficult to draw a conclusion based only on the facts received from you. Therefore, it is recommended to conduct an independent audit and exclude possible causes.

Shrinkage of the building can be completely excluded, since the construction of the house was completed more than 3-5 years ago. The type of foundation soil was taken into account when designing the building, which eliminates the cause of the load-bearing foundation being too low.

Gain existing structure– most effective way repair and restoration

You can check the groundwater level yourself. The easiest way is to check the depth of water in existing wells on the site or adjacent territory. With sufficient depth (more than 15 meters), it is possible to completely eliminate the fact that moisture constantly penetrates through the soil.

For an additional check, you will need to dig a small trench to the depth of the foundation and monitor the accumulation of water. If after 3-5 days no accumulation of water occurs, then groundwater does not wash away the foundation and the cause of destruction is different.

The accumulation of even a small amount of water may indicate that the supporting base is periodically or constantly exposed to moisture, which, rising through the soil, is absorbed into the surface of the base, thereby reducing its service life, leading to damage.

In your case, without identifying any additional reasons, the lack of a reliable water barrier in the form of a high-quality blind area led to the fact that the base was exposed to moisture for 5 years. Hence the formation of cracks and collapse of the outer covering.

Repair work technology

Repairs and restoration of damaged areas on the surface of the base can be performed using various technologies. But regardless of the repair method, protecting the basement of the house should begin with the construction of a blind area.

The protective blind area should have several underlying layers based on fine-grained sand and crushed stone. As an outer layer, it is desirable to use reinforced concrete metal mesh.

Most efficient technology repair and strengthening of the basement of private houses - this is pouring or overlaying concrete mortar on a reinforcing structure made of thick metal mesh, steel pipes or fittings.

To carry out the work, you will need to purchase a welded mesh with 10×10 mm cells and a wire thickness of at least 5 mm. When using reinforcement, you can focus on similar parameters and use material with a diameter of 8-10 mm. Knitting of the material can be done steel wire 4 mm thick.

Basic materials for the frame used in the restoration of the old base

In places where damage is not carried strong character, and no reinforcement of the structure is required, reinforcement old surface will be performed with a conventional all-metal expanded metal mesh up to 1 mm thick.

The tool you will need to use is a hammer, chisel, sledgehammer, hammer drill, etc. It is best to mix the solution using a concrete mixer. This is in better side affect the quality of the mixture. The proportions of the solution are 1 part M500-600 cement to 3 parts fine-grained sand.

For formwork, you can use old plywood or metal sheets, wooden boards, hammered into panels or any other building materials.

Executions repair work You can do it yourself using the following technology:

Dismantling of the formwork is carried out after a few days and depends on average daily temperature air. At a temperature of 15-20 °C - 4-5 days, at 10-15 °C - 6-7 days. In general cases, after repairing the surface of the plinth, we recommend waiting for at least a week and only then removing the formwork.

For partial repairs, the execution technology has a slightly different sequence. This method can be used both for restoring the surface of apartment buildings and for repairing personal buildings.

It will be necessary to clean, clean and prime the surface in one layer. Next, the exhaust mesh is stuffed and re-primed in one or two layers. As a guide when leveling, you can use a stretched cord or plaster beacons, which are fixed to the plaster. The installation step should be smaller than the tool to level the mixture.

After leveling, after about 4-8 hours, the surface is moistened and rubbed using a felt grater. For best drying, the base part is covered with a matte material that protects against direct contact sun rays and making the drying process more natural.

If problems arise with the base, then in order to correct the situation and perform basic construction work, a person does not need to have any skills of a highly qualified specialist in finishing works. A general understanding of how the installation of facing materials took place and what fixing compounds were used is sufficient. Since basement repairs may be needed at any time, it is advisable to prepare for this in advance.

If the owner of the house has not previously delved into such nuances, he must, first of all, understand that the plinth is the distance from the ground to the wall of the structure. It can sometimes occupy an entire floor or just a foundation that protrudes half a meter above the ground.

The main reasons for the destruction of the basement of a house

If over time a crack appears on the base of the structure or fungus has formed, this indicates that the master, when carrying out facing works made mistakes that have now caused global problems. Also, sometimes experts ignore design standards, which would be sufficient to avoid such complications in the first years of operation of the building.

Over time, the basement will need to be repaired

The main causes of basement destruction include the following:

1. House shrinkage. Such processes depend on the soil, and an important role is played by total weight buildings. The largest subsidences are observed in brick multi-apartment buildings.
2. Poor quality blind area. If you neglect necessary technologies making a blind area, in the future this will certainly lead to problems with the foundation.
3. Groundwater. If, when creating the project, the depth of groundwater flow was not taken into account and no waterproofing measures were taken, this will also provoke erosion. If the owner of the house is going to build the foundation himself, it is better to use the services of professionals. Only they will be able to correctly assess the situation and determine the depth of groundwater flow.
4. Design standards were violated. Quite often, builders do not take into account the insulation of the foundation, as well as waterproofing. But such problems mainly happen to people who, without the necessary experience, try to build on their own. In the future, this will certainly lead to the formation of fungi and freezing of the entire structure. In turn, this will also provoke destruction of a certain degree of severity.

In this video you will learn more about basement repair:

Types of base repairs and description of the technological process

There are 3 main types of repairs to the basement of a building, namely:

• capital;
• current;
• cosmetic.

In some cases, when the work does not fall under one of these types, it is necessary to perform a partial restoration of the blind area. In any of these situations, a person should at least be familiar with the peculiarities of carrying out this type of work.

Partial restoration of the base and blind area

To partially restore the base and blind area, you must perform the following steps:

1. Clean from fungus, dirt and dust facade part building, which requires restoration work, with priming of gorges and depressions.
2. Next, using dowels, the exhaust mesh is attached so that it does not go beyond the edges of the recess. Now you can apply a layer of plaster mortar to the problem area, adhering to the level of the base.
3. If the voids are too large, you should first prepare bricks of suitable size and fill these recesses with mortar. After the area has been restored, it should be moistened with water and applied waterproofing material two layers.
4. After the surface is completely dry, the plaster can be applied.

If partial subsidence of the blind area occurs, the damaged area is removed and crushed stone, gravel and sand are added, compacting the soil. Next, the formwork is installed, and the surface is poured with concrete so that the level does not exceed intact and undamaged areas. If an ordinary crack has formed, without subsidence, it can simply be rubbed with cement mortar.

Current repair of the basement

Routine renovation of the basement means that the cladding will be updated, as well as the waterproofing layers. Often wear occurs quickly due to the fact that the base part is always located in the most aggressive environment and takes on various technical and atmospheric loads. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to periodically diagnose and update minor damage.

Major renovation

To produce major renovation, the first thing to do is pour a new blind area. After the space has been cleared, it is worth digging a trench, the depth of which will be 35-45 cm. The width is chosen at the discretion of the owner of the house. The lower 20-25 cm are covered with sand, as well as crushed stone, and compacted tightly.

Don't forget about the blind area

Next, geotextiles or roofing felt are spread and filled with sand. To make the dressing, holes are made in the foundation and pieces of reinforcement are driven in there every 50 cm. A reinforced mesh is also attached here. Now you can install the formwork and fill the structure with concrete.

Further repair work should begin only after complete hardening. A reinforced mesh is applied to the cleaned base surface. To perform these steps, you can drill a hole in the wall and drive in reinforcement in 1-2 rows, tying a mesh to it. Next, the surface should be primed and formwork installed, filled with cement and compacted.

Cosmetic repair of the base

Cosmetic repairs do not require any deep knowledge in the field of construction. The whole job is to restore the paint, plaster or other finishes. If any mechanical damage occurs, it may be necessary to replace one cladding element with another.

To understand such work, it is enough to have an idea of ​​how to prepare plaster or paint and apply it to the damaged surface. As for replacing any parts, more effort will be required, but such actions can be carried out based on the principle of installation carried out earlier during the construction of the house.

Strengthening the foundation

To strengthen the foundation, holes can be dug at each corner of the building, about a meter by meter in size. They must be made in such a way as to expose the lower corner of the foundation. Such a recess must be no less than 45-50 cm deeper than the existing foundation.

Next, a reinforced frame for the concrete cushion is made. To do this, a lattice with one cell 20 by 20 cm is made from reinforcement using welding. Next, this lattice is lowered into the pit and filled with concrete. Popularly this design is called a “bull”.

Repair materials

To repair the basement of a house with your own hands, you need to prepare certain materials for future work. First of all, this includes the following:

• gravel, sand and crushed stone;
• primer and concrete mixture;
• plaster mixture;
• dowels and fittings;
• geotextiles or roofing felt;
• boards for formwork construction;
• exhaust mesh;
• waterproofing solution;
• asbestos or steel pipe.

How to protect the basement of a house from destruction

In order to resort to reconstruction of the basement floor as little as possible, you can take care to provide it with adequate protection from mechanical and atmospheric influences. For this you can use budget option, which is accessible to everyone, even those without experience in this field.

It consists of applying a resin to the foundation of the house, which can protect it from external influence. It is necessary to mix the resin with diesel fuel and heat until a homogeneous mixture is formed, similar in consistency to jelly. This solution, when hardened, forms a special film that has protective properties and prevents moisture from entering the foundation.

The basement is one of the main elements of the house. Through it, loads are transmitted to the foundation from all other structures - walls, ceilings, roofs.

And although they try to choose the most durable and high-quality brick for the plinth, the masonry still sometimes needs repairs. Let's consider the types and causes of damage, and also repair the basement of a brick house using various methods.

Also in the video in this article:

Types of base damage and their causes

The most common damage to the basement of a house occurs:

1. destruction of the outer surface brickwork(exfoliation);
2. cracks in the structure;
3. base subsidence.

They are caused by many reasons:

1. soil subsidence;
2. foundation subsidence;
3. low-quality building materials from which the basement is built;
4. poor quality construction work;
5. incorrect or damaged waterproofing;
6. incorrect calculation that does not take into account the effective load on the structure;
7. increase in load during operation, repair or reconstruction (for example, adding a second floor to a cottage).

Moreover, defects in most cases arise not for one reason, but for a combination of them. For example, peeling can be caused by the fact that a brick of reduced frost resistance has been selected, and also the waterproofing has lost its properties.

Why damage to the base must be repaired as early as possible

As we have already said, all other building structures rest on the plinth, the repair of which can be more expensive than even labor-intensive work to eliminate defects in the plinth.

A significant subsidence of the base can lead to the destruction of walls and ceilings, and even to the fact that the structure will become unsuitable for use. Construction materials do not self-heal. Ordinary peeling of a brick can lead to a chain of more serious consequences.

For example:

1. Peeling (damage to the surface layers) gradually goes deeper.
2. Subsequently, the material is completely destroyed.
3. The thickness (area) of the plinth wall decreases.
4. The load on the remaining undamaged areas of the plinth masonry increases beyond their strength limit.
5. Cracking occurs, and then destruction of the entire base, and then the rest of the structure of the house.

Therefore, having noticed even a minor defect, it is necessary, if possible, to identify its cause and eliminate it, and then carry out repairs. Now let’s learn more about how to repair a basement.

Base subsidence

It is detected by cracks in the brickwork and even by deviation of the base surfaces from the vertical or horizontal. Having discovered such a defect, you need to act as follows.

Determine whether the subsidence of the base continues

The continuation of subsidence is evidenced by the constant expansion of cracks. You can determine whether it is there or not in a simple way using beacons.

It's easy to make them:

1. We cut strips of paper about 2 centimeters wide and 10-15 centimeters long.
2. Using strong glue, we attach them so that they seem to tighten the crack (similar to repairing with electrical tape or adhesive, but the purpose is different).
3. It is advisable to write the date of the sticker on each lighthouse.
4. After 10 days, we look to see if our tapes are still intact. If intact, then shrinkage no longer occurs.

By the way, in the same way it is necessary to control the result of work to eliminate shrinkage and strengthen the foundation.

Determine whether there is subsidence of the foundation

In 90% of cases, the reason why the brick base sank strip foundation, this is the draft of the latter. In order to make sure that only the base is to blame (this rarely happens), in places where there are the most cracks on the base, we expose the foundation with small holes.

Most likely, there will be cracks there too. In a well-known way, with the help of beacons we determine whether they have an extension.

Should work be carried out to strengthen the foundation and plinth if the subsidence has ended?

Many people recommend, after making sure that there is no more subsidence, to simply seal the cracks and, if necessary, carry out cosmetic repairs. However, there is no certainty that the processes that caused the subsidence (for example, changes in the groundwater horizon) will not be repeated. Therefore, strengthening must be carried out in any case.

Strengthening the foundation is best done in stages, without exposing it completely, so without supporting the outer wall of the foundation on the ground, collapse of not only parts of the foundation, but also the walls can occur.

• Opening the foundation of the building. We dig a trench not along the entire perimeter of the building, but in small sections of 3-4 meters with the same intervals between them.

Advice. Be extremely careful when excavating to great depths. Make slopes of at least 30 degrees or secure the walls of the trench with shields.

• Most likely, cracks will also be visible in the exposed foundation. We seal them with cement-sand mortar.

• It would be optimal to additionally tighten the foundation with steel tires with intervals in height of 0.5-1 meter. Therefore, we place their parts in our pits so that we can later connect them by welding or bolts.
• Afterwards we prepare connections to connect the old fill with the new one. To do this, we drill holes in a checkerboard pattern, spaced from each other at a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters. We glue either standard ones into them metal connections, or install self-expanding anchors.

• We treat the walls of the existing foundation with a water-repellent compound, its price is low, and the effectiveness of waterproofing increases significantly.

• We waterproof the existing foundation. It is best to cover it with waterproofing material. If the old waterproofing is in satisfactory condition, we still carry out additional coating, since by installing tires and connections, we damaged its tightness.
• Preparing a cushion of sand and crushed stone for pouring. We compact it carefully.
• Installing formwork. To strengthen the foundation, as a rule, a thickness of an additional layer of reinforced concrete of 30-40 centimeters is sufficient. For formwork, it is best to use inventory panels; they will speed up the work.
• Installing reinforcement mesh. You can weld it, but the easiest way is to knit it. To maintain the protective layer of concrete, we install clamps.

At the same time, we do not forget that we will not be concreting the entire foundation, but sections, so we will leave 15-20 centimeter bars at the edges, with which we will connect the reinforcement of the grips poured in the second stage. We also provide connections between the frame and ties previously reinforced in the existing foundation.

• Filling areas that strengthen the foundation. You need to use not the standard B 12.5 concrete for foundations, but a higher class. Be sure to compact it with deep vibrators.
• After the concrete has hardened, remove the formwork.
• The new foundation wall also needs to be waterproofed.
• After waterproofing, we carry out bedding.

Having completed the first stage, you can proceed to the second:

1. We expose the remaining sections of the foundation.
2. We seal cracks in the same way.
3. We install the missing sections of tires to tighten the foundation. We tighten them
4. We carry out work on installation of connections and waterproofing.
5. We install the formwork so that the panels rest on the already finished sections.
6. We install the reinforcement frame. We connect its rods with the outlets of the casting rods of the first stage.
7. We pour the concrete, after it hardens, remove the formwork, waterproof it and sprinkle it.
8. The second stage is completed, we have a ready-made reinforced foundation.

To avoid interruptions in work, it is better to use the following principle:

1. We immediately fill a number of sections of the first stage on one side of the building.
2. Let's move to the opposite side. While we are working there, the concrete will harden.
3. Having completed the first stage on the opposite side, we again move to the area where we started, and there we fill the remaining sections of the wall.

After we have poured the reinforcing layer along its horizontal surface, it is necessary to lay the waterproofing layer again, which will then be covered with a blind area.

Option for using screw piles

You can speed up and simplify the work of strengthening the foundation with a relatively small subsidence using screw piles. They differ from ordinary metal ones in that they have blades in the shape of an Archimedes screw at the end that goes deep into the ground.

Such piles are not driven into the ground, but are screwed in like a corkscrew. Moreover, with the small size of the foundation and the piles themselves, they can be installed without the use of special equipment, manually.

In addition, when installing piles, the soil around the foundation is not loosened, but rather compacted, which reduces settlement of the existing structure.

But we note that this method can only be used in cases of slight subsidence, since it does not eliminate cracks in the existing foundation and does not restore its waterproofing.

Work to strengthen the foundation in this way is carried out as follows:

1. We screw in a row of piles around the perimeter of the old foundation. The step of their installation depends on the design and cross-section, installation depth. The manufacturer usually makes recommendations upon delivery.
2. After the piles are screwed in, a trench about half a meter deep is selected along the existing foundation. Its width is approximately equal to double the distance from the pile installation line to the perimeter of the foundation.
3. The piles are connected to each other metal beam, usually an I-section, by welding.
4. If the piles are hollow, then their internal volume is filled with concrete.
5. Just like in the first case, but only for the exposed part of the foundation, work is being carried out to seal cracks, repair waterproofing and install connections.
6. A reinforcement cage is laid in the trench. It is not necessary to do it frequently, since the main load is taken by the beam connecting the piles. You can avoid reinforcement altogether if you use fiber-reinforced concrete.
7. Fill the trench with concrete. Then we lay waterproofing and make a blind area.

After the foundation is strengthened, it is time to begin restoring the base itself.

Basement repair with replacement of damaged masonry

If the masonry is severely damaged, for example, to a depth greater than the brick, a complete rework of the base would be ideal. If we were talking about wooden houses, then such work is performed there quite often.

It includes the following operations:

1. part of the plinth masonry is removed to install supports;
2. supports are installed under the log house, resting directly on the foundation and taking on the entire weight of the house structure that previously carried the base;
3. the basement brick is removed completely and re-laid;
4. Lastly, the areas where the supports stood are laid.

Sometimes in this way they solve not only the question of how to level the base with bricks, but also increase the height by raising the house on jacks.

For brick building This technology is difficult to apply for two reasons:

1. the weight of a brick structure is much greater than that of a wooden one;
2. brickwork requires support over the entire area of ​​the base; removing even a small part of the base leads to the formation of cracks.

But still, this technology is real, it is used when moving a building from place to place. It is difficult to do this with your own hands, but it is possible, although it requires large material costs.

In this case, it is desirable that the following conditions be met:

1. the structure of the house should not be very heavy; it may not be possible to support even a two-story cottage on supports;
2. If possible, the wall should be monolithic and not consist of two layers separated by an air chamber.

For reference, we present the stages of work, although few people use this technology. Everything is very similar to making openings in a blank wall. For work we will need the following auxiliary materials

1. A strong steel corner with a shelf width equal to half the wall thickness;
2. The length of the racks is approximately equal to the height of the base;
3. Sealant for building structures.

The instructions for performing the work are as follows:

• We choose a section no more than 1-2 meters long. We immediately prepare a square of this length.
• At the junction between the wall and the plinth we begin to cut a groove. In this case, the cutter must be of such a diameter that it can penetrate half the thickness of the wall.
• Simultaneously with cutting, we begin to insert the square into the groove. That is, having cut through the area so that the gas cutter does not interfere with us, we insert one edge of the square at an angle to the wall. Then, continuing to cut, we bring its opposite edge closer, introducing more and more new sections into the cut space. This is done in order to prevent the wall from subsiding downwards even by the thickness of the cut, this will inevitably lead to the formation of a crack
• By inserting a square into the groove, we attach it to the posts; you can attach stops to the square or simply use welding. Before this, the racks must be extremely securely installed on the base to prevent their vertical displacement.
• Having thus suspended part of the base on one side, we carry out a similar operation on the opposite side. Most likely, you will have to dismantle the floor to do this.
• Now we already have part of the wall hanging, and the section of the plinth under it is not loaded. Let's take it apart.
• Having taken it apart, we begin to make a new one. I think you know how to lay out a brick plinth - the techniques are the same as for walls. At the same time, do not forget about waterproofing between the foundation and the brick. At the edges of the section we leave protruding parts of the brick for tying with the masonry of the next section.
• Having completed the laying and allowing the mortar to gain strength, we remove the racks.

Now our task is even more difficult - to remove the square, fill the seam with mortar without subsidence of the higher structures. This should be done slowly, perhaps over several days. To fill the joint, you need to use quick-hardening cement.

• In the same way as we introduced it, we begin to remove the square. This will require a fair amount of effort as it is pinned down by the weight of the wall. We use levers and jacks for this.
• Having freed up a small space in the seam, apply sealant to the surface. Then, after allowing it to harden, we tightly fill the remaining space with the solution. When it hardens, remove another part of the square. We continue this in small steps until we remove it completely.
• Having completed work in one area, we move in order to another. We carry out the work until the entire defective base is rebuilt.

As you can see, the work is not only labor-intensive and complex, but also takes a lot of time. Relaying the plinth even under small house may take more than a month. Therefore, another restoration method is more often used - sealing damaged areas with concrete.

Basement repair using concrete mixtures

1. First of all, thoroughly clean the damaged areas. We remove not only crushed stone and dust, but also half-scattered pieces of brick that still remain in contact with the rest of the stone. It is convenient to use a brush and a blower for this purpose. At the same time, you should not be particularly zealous - a chisel and a hammer are of no use for this work.
2. We seal all the cracks, filling them with sand cement mixture with fine sand fraction. It is advisable to use a solution with the addition of fiber fibers and polymer additives or even special repair compounds.
3. It is quite possible that the waterproofing of both the base from the foundation and from the walls in places where the brick has crumbled is damaged. Cover these defects sheet material it won’t work out, so we cover them with sealant or mastic in several layers.
4. Then we need to ensure good adhesion of the laid mixture with the rest of the base. To do this, we use fine reinforcing mesh. We fasten it to the masonry using screws on dowels or self-expanding anchors.

Please note that there are special varieties of this fastener for brick and lightweight concrete, which take into account less strength and the density of these materials. We use them exactly. We place the mesh vertically at a distance of at least 3-5 centimeters from the future outer surface of the base. This way we will protect the steel from corrosion.

You can use a polymer mesh, then the distance to the surface does not matter, the plastic is not susceptible to rust.

Polymer mesh is the best replacement for steel

• We begin to fill the damaged areas with the solution. It is better to do this with a trowel or a falcon. In those places where the damage is especially deep and the mortar can slide, we install formwork.
• Having finished laying, we level the surface and compact it with a vibrating screed.
• Let the concrete harden under normal conditions. To do this, we cover the repaired area from the sun and slanting rain with a dark film. Periodically moisten the surface, not allowing it to dry.
• We apply a protective coating to the concrete - it is best to use compounds that not only repel water, but also give additional strength to its surface. Any hardware store offers a wide selection of these products. If you plan to cover the base, then this step can be skipped.

After the concrete has hardened, the repair of the brick plinth can be considered complete. It remains to take care of decorative finishing and additional protection. By the way, almost all finishing technologies and materials simultaneously perform both functions.

First, about protection. By the way, it won’t hurt to carry out this work if there is no damage to the base, but it is made of low-quality material, thereby increasing the durability of the structure.

Base protection and finishing

In addition to poor waterproofing high humidity, leading to the destruction of its material, is also created when rainwater enters. Increasing the roof overhang can partially protect against precipitation.

Only a properly made blind area can protect from rainwater coming from the ground. After repairing the base, it must be restored or fixed if it was missing at all (most often it cannot be repaired). Therefore, we will tell you in detail how to properly make a blind area.

Restoration and construction of the blind area

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the site, remove destroyed pieces of concrete from the old blind area and other materials.

Then we begin work, about them again step by step:

• We carry out excavation work. For the blind area you need to prepare a shallow trench. Its width is at least 70 centimeters, but the larger the better. Depth of at least 30 centimeters.
• We compact the bottom of the trench, then arrange a cushion of sand, crushed stone and crushed stone-sand mixture, along which we carefully pass several times with a vibrating platform or, in extreme cases, with a tamper.
• The next stage is the installation of formwork. It consists of boards or slats laid around the perimeter, which are secured with pegs and bedding. It is necessary to ensure that the upper edge of the poured blind area is at least 5 centimeters above the ground.

Even better, instead of formwork, put sidewalk stones on concrete locks (though this is additional costs labor and material), so our blind area will be reliably protected from breaking off the edges.

• In addition to the perimeter blind area, expansion joints must also be provided. Of course, they can be cut later, but why waste extra time and wear out discs for cutting concrete, it is better to provide for it immediately when pouring. We lay thin slats or other material along the perimeter of the wall, as well as at a distance of 3-4 meters perpendicular to it. Let's mark them.

Many craftsmen recommend generally connecting the blind area to the base using ties, but this is not correct. Firstly, their foundation does not shrink when the soil freezes and thaws. Secondly, concrete and brick have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, it is imperative to give them freedom.

Advice. The blind area can not be filled at all, but can be made from paving slabs(we already recommended side stones). A slight seepage of water into the ground near the blind area will not hurt. But, as practice shows, it will be more durable.

• To create expansion joints, it is better to use a very dry board of small thickness, impregnated with petroleum products, otherwise removing it will be problematic (ordinary concrete, although slightly, expands). It is even better to take scraps of metal or other materials that do not swell with water.
• After laying the formwork, we reinforce the future blind area. As a rule, a mesh laid at 5-10 centimeters is sufficient. As mentioned above, connecting it to a foundation or plinth not only makes no sense, but is also completely dangerous, since this threatens a loss of strength.
• We fill the structure. For compaction and leveling, it is better to use a vibrating screed.

• Concrete maintenance is normal. By the way, the surface is horizontal, it is advisable to sprinkle it with wet sand or sawdust, constantly moistening it. Then the film can also be used transparent, it only protects against evaporation.
• When the concrete reaches formwork strength, remove the formwork. This work must be carried out very carefully with slats that provide expansion joints.
• We fill the seams either with a special sealant or with ready-made polymer inserts for such work.

Base finishing

A structure restored using mortar may not look very presentable and may not fit into the exterior of the building, so the basement of a brick house is almost always finished. There are several options.

Let's list them, paying attention to their advantages and disadvantages:

• Regular coloring. A simple and budget option that does not always fit into the style of the house. If you plan to paint, you need to carefully level the surface of the concrete. The disadvantages include the fact that the paint needs to be renewed periodically. Moreover, she does not give any additional protection except for decorative effect.

Advice. To avoid having to paint often, add pigment to the solution you will use to restore the base. For accurate color rendering, it is advisable to use white cement rather than ordinary cement for the outer layer of concrete.

• Plaster. This is usually followed by painting. Allows you to hide uneven concrete and additionally protects it. Like the other finishing options listed below, it allows for additional insulation of the base; for this purpose, it is laid between the concrete and the plaster layer. thermal insulation material(mineral wool boards, polystyrene foam).

In addition, special solutions can be used for plaster (as in the photo below). They can make the surface texture even more decorative than other finishing methods.

The disadvantages are that a layer of plaster, like simple painting, may not always fit into the exterior.

If the brick plinth belt is not damaged along the entire perimeter of the building, and you only repaired certain areas, plastering is one of the most simple ways hide the repair location. But, you can experiment by making one wall plastered and leaving the masonry intact on the rest.

Author's opinion. I generally don’t like it when brick is covered with plaster. The seams were partially exposed, 2-3 millimeters of brick were destroyed due to old age - all this is not a reason to hide the brick. This is especially true for historical buildings.

• Facing. For cladding, tiles from various materials- ceramic and clinker tiles, natural stone. Thanks to huge selection With these materials, there are no limits to the designer’s imagination. Can imitate brick or plinth masonry, untreated natural stone, wood, or choose any color, pattern or design. Material can be various shapes and sizes.

The tile protects the base not only from the penetration of moisture and unwanted substances, but also from mechanical damage, since its surface is very hard. If the plinth area is located near a path or sidewalk, such protection is not superfluous, since when removing snow or carrying out other household work it can easily be affected by equipment or equipment.

• Siding finishing(its variants are block house and the like). Although this finish is most used on walls, it also looks great on plinths. In addition there is special types siding designed specifically for this part of the building. The material is quickly installed and has good performance characteristics. If it fits into the exterior, then you should choose it.

There are special siding panels for the base. After installation, they look like natural building material.

This is where we will conclude our article. It’s great if, after reading it, you can repair a brick plinth yourself, or at least select a technology for ordering work from craftsmen. Basement - no less important detail home than the foundation, so it must always be strong and beautiful.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

The basement of the building is exposed to aggressive influence of many factors. It needs repair more often than other areas. You can’t delay with her. After all, the destruction of the base reduces the durability of the entire structure.

To prevent damage to the plaster from leading to the growth of mold and preventing moisture from destroying the wall, you need to correct the situation and promptly repair the basement of the building. As a rule, it consists of restoration of seams and new plastering of certain areas. Sometimes when repairing the basement of a brick house you have to replace individual bricks.

Step by step instructions

Released first bottom part walls from contact with the ground. A shovel is used for this.

Then remove all fragments of plaster that do not adhere well; you must try not to miss any voids; they can be identified by tapping. All loose plaster is beaten off with a hammer or chisel.

Then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Use a wire brush to thoroughly remove all remaining plaster. How to perform this work, you can look at the photo or video.

All surfaces that need to be protected from plaster, such as window frames, must be covered with masking tape. He will protect important areas from pollution.

Detected defects in the masonry are moistened before repairing the brick plinth lining. This is necessary to ensure better contact plaster mixture with the surface.

To fill the existing voids, you should select bricks of the appropriate size. You can cut fragments of the desired size from aerated concrete blocks.

The next stage of repairing the basement with your own hands is to fill the voids with prepared bricks and secure them with masonry mortar.

Before plastering the surface, it must be thoroughly moistened. To do this, you can take a bucket and a brush, but it’s easier and faster to wet the wall with water from a hose.

Then a solution (waterproofing slurry) is prepared for waterproofing. The mixture is diluted with clean water.

The solution is applied to the restored areas in 2 passes. At first thin layer 1 - 2 mm, when the first layer begins to set, apply a second layer of 3 mm. In this case, you can use a brush or a wide spatula.

The applied layers must stand for 24 hours. You can continue working the next day.

Then a solution for plaster is prepared.

Perform a 2-layer application again. First, apply a layer of 10 mm. The plaster is rubbed forcefully over the surface, moving the spatula in a semicircle.

To ensure that the walls are ultimately smooth, it is advisable to use plaster strips, when installing which you should use a level. These planks come in several varieties. IN in this case they are made of wood.

The next layer of plaster is applied with a thickness of 15 - 20 mm.

The plaster is carefully applied over the entire surface; it is advisable to fill the entire surface with it down to the foundation. Then it will be possible to talk about complete and quality repairs plinth plaster.

The base point for removing excess mortar will be not only the plaster strips, but also the intact layer of cladding, as in the photo.

When the surface dries, it is leveled using a plaster float.

To beautifully decorate the corner, plaster strips are used. By attaching the strip to the appropriate corner, you can align the end of the wall. The bar is then removed.

The base is the outer part of the foundation, the base façade walls. If it is cracked due to shrinkage or simply worn out over time, it needs to be repaired. Repairing the basement cannot be put off for a long time; this can lead to an emergency.

Basement repair work

Reasons why the base collapses:

shrinkage - y and concrete structures in the first year, for wooden ones - throughout the existence of the house;

ground movements, frost heaving;

non-compliance with technology during the laying process, incorrect calculation;

climatic factors - frost, rain, snow, wind;

proximity to soil water;

poorly executed blind area or its destruction.

Repair has several goals:

• restoration of bearing capacity, strengthening the strength of the foundation itself and the entire house;
• insulation of the lower part of the facade and basement floor from the outside;
• waterproofing and mechanical protection;
• restoration of aesthetic appearance.

There are three main types of repairs: current, major and cosmetic.

The current one involves updating the cladding, heat and waterproofing layers. Since the basement part is located in the most aggressive conditions (it takes on maximum loads and is influenced by both atmospheric and soil factors), wear occurs faster than the rest of the cottage. It is necessary to periodically diagnose the condition, update damaged layers, and protect internal space basement floor and the inside of the foundation from adverse influences.

A major repair of the basement is necessary when the structure of the base itself is damaged: large cracks, chips have appeared, large pieces have crumbled, and the corners of the house have sagged unevenly. In this case, it is better if a professional company does the repair work: firstly, they have the appropriate qualifications and equipment, and secondly, they are obliged to correct defects and work defects free of charge if they appear.

Cosmetic repairs involve improving the appearance of the base: restoring paint, plaster or other finishing, replacing one cladding with another.

Do-it-yourself basement repair at home

Work should be carried out in dry weather, in summer or spring, but not in the heat. Rain and low/excessive high temperatures impair the adhesion of the mortar, moisture negates efforts at waterproofing and insulation. First you need to assess the condition of the blind area: if it is badly damaged, it is dismantled and a new one is poured after the repair work is completed.

Procedure for repairing the base yourself:

1. Knock down the old plaster to the base, remove worn thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.
2. Thoroughly clean the base from dirt, mildew, and mold.
3. Treat with an antiseptic.
4. Fill large cracks before plastering with crushed stone or broken bricks.
5. Secure the reinforcing metal mesh with dowels.
6. Prime the surface along with the mesh.
7. Mix the concrete and treat the surface. Repair mother-in-law's cracks and chips.
8. Apply and completely cover the mesh. Dry the base for a month until the concrete has completely set.
9. Lay waterproofing material and insulation.
10. Close facing material– , corrugated sheeting, etc.
11. Fill the blind area: a layer of concrete 5-8 cm. A small sand and gravel cushion should be poured under the concrete and a layer of roofing material should be laid. It is recommended to add small crushed stone to the solution. The blind area is reinforced with metal mesh and poured with a slope from the wall outward.

Repair of the basement of a brick house

Using the method described above, you can perform routine and/or cosmetic repairs. If, due to uneven shrinkage or movement, progressive cracks appear in the base, the base must be strengthened. Otherwise, the destruction will appear again in the near future. Let's consider reinforcement using the example of a brick building.

The first stage is diagnostics: paper or gypsum beacons to identify progressive damage. It is advisable to put a date on the beacons. After a few days, the beacons are checked and identified those areas that need to be strengthened.

Procedure:

1. Dig a recess under the crack to the depth of the bottom layer of the cushion with a wall slope of at least 35 degrees from the base.
2. Install a steel or asbestos pipe into the hole.
3. Pour liquid into the pipe mortar. Some of it will be used to saturate the nearest soil, this is normal. Top up within 2-3 hours: when the soil is saturated, the pipe will fill to the top.
4. Reinstall the beacons. Monitor for several days to see if the subsidence has stopped. If not, repeat the same procedures again.

If the damage is large-scale, strengthen the entire base around the perimeter:

1. Dig a trench around the house to the depth of the foundation.
2. Compact the bottom and fill it up. Compact by pouring water.
3. Clean the foundation from soil, old plaster, etc.
4. Prime the wall.
5. Drill holes for the anchors with a hammer drill.
6. Insert the anchors so that they go right through the wall and protrude outward from it: they will connect the old foundation to the new reinforcement belt.
7. The new frame is placed 10 centimeters from the base. It is made from 1.2 cm rods.
8. Install formwork from boards or fiberboard. The boards are removed after pouring; the DSP can be left.
9. Fill the ditch in one go (layer-by-layer filling will reduce the strength of the new tape).
10. Compact with a vibrating rammer. Drive the air out of the concrete by piercing it with a bayonet shovel.
11. After a week, you can remove and fill the ditch with soil.