The COX Pointing Gun can be used on most bulk materials, although it is primarily intended to replace mortar in masonry and masonry joints.

In accordance with this functional purpose, it has two fundamental advantages over traditional trowel methods:

• Great productivity - especially with a brigade-complex approach, including, for example, preparing the joint, preparing and then applying the mortar.
• Tight filling of the joint from depth to surface provides a high quality finish and virtually eliminates the possibility of voids and cracks.
• The result of this treatment is a strong and durable seam that is resistant to freeze / thaw cycles.

POINTING GUN The mortar is placed in a plastic cylinder, one end of which is open and the other has a tight-fitting spout.

This cylinder is placed in the frame body of the gun, after which a rubber plunger is inserted into the open end, which feeds material from the cylinder.

The advantages of this pistol, in the construction of which durable steel and aluminum are used, include:

• wear-resistant, long-life driver chuck;
• high gear ratio of the feed mechanism 12: 1; Ergonomically shaped handle and trigger handle to fit any hand size for long-term comfort.

NOTE: Only flowable or high grade slurries containing rounded sand can be used with this Cox gun - otherwise materials will not flow freely under pressure.

• 1.Standard cylindrical body with tightly fitted tapered spout = replacement of components without high costs
• 2.Rubber plunger placed between steel washers = ability to regulate optimal material flow.
• 3.High feed gear ratio = minimal working effort and reduced fatigue.
• 4.Patented drive chuck (sintered steel) = high efficiency and long service life
• 5.Hardened stem, trigger and pivot pins = high durability
• 6.Galvanized work pieces = corrosion resistance
• 7.Special shape of handle and trigger lever = easy handling
• 8.Steel frame made using the projection welding method = strength and durability
• Durable epoxy coating = corrosion resistance

VERY IMPORTANT!!! When using grouting, in the process of grouting, it is necessary to know and remember some of the features of this mixture: if there is no practice of using such products, then first it is better to work out the process on rejected finishing materials (panels, etc.), and it is better to start grouting the seams from the rear sides of the building, from niches or openings, from places of abutment to the roof, which are not very conspicuous in order to “fill your hand”.

Mixing the mixture.
Pure water is poured into the bucket (4.5-5.5 liters of water per 25 kg of trowelled dry mixture) at room temperature from +15 to +20 ˚С and 2/3 of the bag is poured into the water. Mix thoroughly for 1 minute with a drill with a nozzle (400-600 rpm), then the rest of the bag is poured out and mixed for 5 minutes. Then the grout is allowed to stand (breathe) for 2-5 minutes, it is necessary for all the components to react. In practice, the density of the solution should be such that if you take a small amount of the mixed mixture on your finger, then the ideal state will be when the mass is very plastic, but does not drain (does not slide) from the finger. This needs to be worked out empirically.

Working with a solution.
The grout gun is filled with a ready-made solution (it is better to cut off the spout of the gun along the width of the seam or 1-2 mm less) and evenly, tightly applied to the seam, always with a slight influx, by 1-2 mm. Those. the grout should protrude from the seam in an even tubercle, 1-2 mm higher than the tile level, but at the same time not protrude onto the surface of the facing material - do not stain it. Depending on the time of year, weather conditions and ambient temperature, the SEAM IS WASHED STRICTLY AFTER THE MORTAR HAS STANDED IN THE SEAM TO WET SAND, from about 30-40 minutes to 2.5 hours (2.5 hours in early spring or late autumn) ... In other words, this is a state when the grout has almost given up all the water to tiles, bricks, etc., but has not yet begun to set. This can be determined by removing a small area 1-2 mm in depth with a spatula or other object from the grouting time-honored. If the grout starts to crumble with wet grains of sand or small groups of grains of sand, then you can start to join the joints. If the solution is still stretching, sticky, then you still have to wait.

• if the seam is rubbed in the traditional way, the mixture will be "smoothed" and a dye will come out of it anyway, which, when dried, will give a color change by half a tone lighter, and will not have a rough surface inherent in natural masonry. If this happens, then you can try to gently "comb" the surface of the joint with a narrow brush of medium hardness, without smudging the finished surface of bricks or tiles (especially when rubbing clinker tiles, especially clinker tiles with increased porosity);
• if you embroider a still plastic mixture, the grout will simply crawl, reach for the jointing tool with all the ensuing consequences.

IMPORTANT!!! In no case should the grout be trowelled in a wet way, with the help of a sponge! The dye is very strong, it penetrates even into the glazed surface of the tile during wet grouting, leaving streaks, not to mention porous materials. If it is necessary to achieve the effect of mashing the grout “under the face”, then after 40 minutes - 90 minutes the excess of the grout rising above the clinker tile is removed with a rubber or plastic spatula, as if removing shavings. After that, we “brush away” unnecessary residues, dust, individual pieces or grains of sand, without “unnecessary fanaticism”, i.e. do not rub into the embroidered material (since the grains of sand in the solution were painted, with excessive diligence, the dye can stain the front surface). If it is necessary to achieve the effect of a semicircular deepened seam in the form of a "groove", then also remove 1-2mm from the surface, but using a semicircular jointing tool. After jointing, all excess, crumbs and dust are brushed off with a not very hard brush (a bristle brush with natural fluffed bristles is not bad). There are other ways to join joints filled with mortar, it all depends on the creative approach to the jointing process, the main thing is to remember the above!

If in some places the grout still got on the front surface, then on the glazed tiles these places can be processed with a strongly wrung out rag. In the case of clinker materials or materials with increased porosity, it is necessary to wait until the rubbed joints dry and after that you can carefully scrape off the “dirty spots” with a drywall knife or other sharp object and then gently “brush off” the dust from the surfaces. To a greater extent, the implementation of these recommendations is necessary for the selected light tones of grout in combination with dark shades of brick or tile.

After grouting, the surface looks embossed due to a large fraction of white quartz sand, natural stone with a fraction of 0.84mm / 1.0mm and flawlessly sets off the beauty of clinker tiles on thermal panels, creating the impression of a building built of European clinker bricks on a colored mortar.

The development of technologies, the emergence of new materials has not spared such an industry as construction. New types of building materials have significantly improved both the quality of the houses being built and the attractiveness of the finishes. This also applies to the material of walls, roofs, windows, insulation and fire safety, finishing materials.

Finishing work is now experiencing a real boom. Every year there are new technologies and devices that improve the quality of finishing, new types of finishing materials. For example, instead of glue or cement for gluing PVC tiles on concrete surfaces by hand, they now use glue - foam, which is under pressure in a cylinder. With the help of a special gun, the foam comes out of the nozzle and is evenly applied to the surface. The clutch is fast and of high quality. Also, instead of spatulas for grouting joints in decorative masonry between stones, a pistol is used, with which the joints are filled very quickly and efficiently.

Stone grout gun

Of course, if you need to grind the seams on the tiles on the working wall in the kitchen, it is not at all necessary to buy a gun for this purpose. An ordinary rubber spatula is enough.

Types of spatulas for grouting

With these spatulas, you can manually rub the seams between the tiles at home. But if you cover the outer surfaces, for example, with artificial tiles under a torn stone, then traditional methods will not work. To do this, you need to use a construction gun, which was invented specifically for such purposes. An ordinary culinary syringe was taken as a principle, but all taking into account the characteristics of the working mixture itself and the place of work. A gun for grouting stone seams has a great performance, which is very important in a brigade approach, which consists in the fact that one person prepares the seam, another applies the mortar, the third finally cleans the seam.

There are two types of pistols: for filling the joints between stones and for grouting the joints between ceramic tiles.

By design, the pistol is:

• cylindrical body;
• nozzle, which is a cone with a long nose;
• piston - plunger to squeeze out the solution;
• the trigger itself.

For example, this tool is POINTING GUN, an English manufacturer that will ensure quality and ease of use.

Construction of a stone grout gun

Its features are:

1. case with a spout, if you need to replace any component, it can be easily done;
2. the piston, which is located between the washers, with which the flow of the mixture is regulated;
3. feed mechanism with increased feed, so as not to spend a lot of effort during work;
4. Leader chuck, the company's own know-how with a long service life;
5. stem with a trigger, also with a long service life;
6. all parts are galvanized;
7. comfortable handles;
8. steel welded frame, very strong and pressure-resistant;
9. epoxy coating.

If the material is porous, not only like stone, but also like artificial tiles in the form of bricks and other similar materials, it is recommended to use the pistol option for filling the joints between stones.

Using a pistol

To begin with, the finished mixture is filled either with a spatula or other device into the cylinder body, then squeezed out with a piston into the seam. If the seam is horizontal, the strip is applied from left to right, if it is vertical, then it is applied from the bottom up. Also, using this gun, you can fill various unplanned voids and cavities.

The sealing process

Working with a gun is also convenient because it maintains cleanliness during work, you do not need to clean the edges of the tiles, as when working with a spatula.

But in some cases, the use of this device is impossible, for example, when laying directly with bricks, not tiles in the form of bricks, clinker tiles, natural stone. This is due to the fact that the mixtures for filling the joints between the tiles and between the bricks have a different composition and the latter, having sand in its composition, simply cannot be squeezed out through the gun.

Therefore, you need to know what kind of grout and for what material is used. Basically, the same composition is used for grouting as the tile is glued. But at present, special compounds are being developed for filling the joints, and it is recommended to use glue only for gluing tiles.

The composition of the grout is of several types:

• made on a cement base;
• made with the addition of epoxy resins;
• made with the addition of various latex-based plasticizers;
• made with the addition of silicone;
• made with the addition of rubber.

You can choose any, the only condition is that the mixture must be used within 40 minutes. Therefore, it is better to choose a dry mixture and prepare the composition immediately before use.

Before starting work, you must first clean the gaps and crevices between different types of tiles, then moisten them with a spray gun, prepare a solution and fill the gun cylinder. And then get to work. And when the seam begins to harden, the seam begins to embroider with the help of the jointing.

What to buy a gun for grouting stone joints

These syringes are produced by various companies, there are expensive, there are cheap instruments. The main thing is that the equipment is of high quality and the mixture evenly comes out through the spout, and not through the slots from the piston.

If this happens, this is not only an unnecessary consumption of the mixture, but also poor-quality work and soiling not only of the hands, but also of the material, especially if the surface is rough. While it is cleaned, it will take a long time.

The choice of tools is not as great as it might seem at first.

If we look at the models, a good option would be STAYER Profi 0673-31, a German company, made in China. It is quite cheap, no more than 400 rubles, but judging by the reviews, it skips the grout a little and you have to put the package on the piston.

You can see a gun for grouting stone joints at a price of 1,500 rubles

How the difference can be seen with the QUICK-MIX stone grout gun. The price of this stone grouting gun is already 6100, but this is a tool for true professionals who value both their reputation and their time. This is a Russian brand, but the workmanship speaks for itself.

A gun for grouting a Russian company

There is also an average between them - POINTING GUN for 3300 rubles, by the British manufacturer P.C.COX., With excellent workmanship, convenient operation and at the same time you do not need to make a lot of effort for the handle, where the system increases the pressure with the help of the mechanism. The instrument comes with a manufacturer's warranty. Moreover, they can work with a solution to fill the seams between bricks, which does not make every syringe and cut the joint with a spout. Easily both filled and cleaned from the mixture.

You can see a gun for grouting stone joints at a price of 1,300 rubles, also from the Russian manufacturer Euro Klinker.

Syringe - pistol from Euro Klinker

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