A detailed photo report on the replacement of the input shaft bearing of the 800W belt sander gearbox.

During the operation of the grinder, without extraneous sounds, the engine speed increased sharply and the belt stopped.

To determine the fault, the three screws of the drive belt cover must be unscrewed.

After dismantling the cover, the following picture emerged:

The drive belt melted instantly due to a malfunctioning grinder gearbox. The primary shaft of the gearbox (with a large pulley) rotated by hand easily, but sometimes it slowed down sharply.

To disassemble the grinder gearbox, unscrew the screw in the center big pulley... We hold the pulley with round-nose pliers.

Attention! The screw has a left-hand thread!

After unscrewing the screw, unscrew the pulley, holding the shaft by the dust extraction fan. The pulley has a normal right-hand thread.

Remove the aluminum fan cover, fan impeller and lower part plastic fan housing.

The fan housing is removed with some interference, since it is also the top cover of the grinder gearbox. It contains the seat of the upper bearing of the input shaft of the gearbox. The upper bearing of the input shaft was found to be free of damage and backlash. To access the lower bearing, it is necessary to remove the gear of the secondary shaft of the reducer. To do this, remove the retaining ring and gear.

After these operations, we remove the input shaft from the lower bearing. In my case, only fragments of the separator remained in the lower bearing, the balls got off to one side. All that is left of the bearing.

Since the grinder is more than five years old, it was decided to check and lubricate all the bearings.

To do this, it is necessary to disassemble the belt drive platform. It is necessary to pull out the pinion fixing pin from the secondary shaft.

Unscrew the three platform fixing screws and the belt adjustment screw (located on the other side).

Using a wide screwdriver, slide the platform along the housing guides. We remove the retaining ring and take out the shaft of the driven roller of the tape. The belt drive roller is removed from the platform housing with some effort together with the bearing. On the bearings, the protective anther covers are removed with a sharply sharpened awl. The bearings are checked for play and smoothness of rotation and are filled with grease. I lubricated all Litol-24 bearings.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Do not forget until complete installation platform in place, - insert the spring of the screw for adjusting the position of the belt!

Dismantling the outer race of a failed bearing was carried out using narrow-nose pliers with curved ends.

A new bearing was installed in place of the removed cage.

After installing the tape drive platform, the pinion fixing the pinion and the pinion of the secondary shaft of the reducer were inserted into the secondary shaft of the reducer. The pinion is secured with a retaining ring.

After that, the primary shaft of the gearbox was installed and lubrication was added.

After these operations, it remains to close the gearbox and assemble the dust removal fan.

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Making another creation, I needed a grinder. Taking her into the light of day, it turned out that she was not half-dead. We undertake to repair it at home.

So, we have in appearance a Chinese grinder. I got it, though cheap, but still a pity to throw it away. Due to intensive use, the following symptoms appeared: when turned on, the noise increased, some uncharacteristic rattling appeared, the power decreased, and then jamming began.

We begin to disassemble. We unscrew all the screws from the cover,

And from the sanding pad.

We are removing the site.

Remove the cover.

Apparently, the engine seat was smashed from work. And when voltage is applied, the rotor skews and wedges.

We remove from seat sizes.

Cut out the gaskets from the press board. We place it on one side of the casing.

Remember the position of the bushings. This is very important, otherwise you will get worn out during assembly.

Take out the motor carefully so as not to damage the brushes.

Insert the spacer symmetrically. We carefully put everything back. Pay attention that the bushings sit in the grooves. We put on the casing. We tighten with screws. Checking.

The changes are already being felt in better side... The motor rotates the shaft without any problems. Jamming is not observed. We assemble and fix the sanding pad.

Check again - great! Now you can continue to create!

it additional condition, so that you feel more comfortable contacting us. If something does not suit you in the process or after the repair, just call our dispatch office on the round-the-clock phone, and I will return all the money to you to the last penny! By the way, in 2018 we received only 9 requests for a refund (out of 38,990 requests!).

🔧 After the guarantee, you will receive a LIFETIME SERVICE

There is no need to worry about what will happen to your equipment after the warranty. I give each client a lifetime service maintenance in Lenremont. This means that if this technique breaks again after the warranty period, repairs will cost 2 times cheaper! Thus, you get a 25% discount on post-warranty repairs.

✅ 2 years repair warranty

Yes! I am so confident in the skill of my masters that I boldly give you 2 years warranty for repairs. This is the biggest guarantee in all of Russia.

And one more surprise - you will receive 4 months warranty for all parts because Lenremont orders parts from a direct supplier.

This warranty means that, if suddenly Your technique will break again the master will come and repair for free her. Even if the master who repaired your equipment gets sick or will no longer work with us, you do not need to worry that you will be left without warranty repair: our staff includes more than 100 masters for each type of equipment. We take full responsibility for making you, our dear client, satisfied.

Angle grinders (angle grinders), popularly called grinders, are a popular and reliable tool. But everything breaks down sometime. It is not difficult to repair a grinder with your own hands if you have an instruction in front of you that tells step by step order repair of angle grinders. Below you will find answers to any questions about the repair of a gearbox, rotor, stator, carbon brushes of angle grinders.

Angle grinders are very popular among home craftsmen. The ability to replace the working bodies allows cutting, grinding, polishing operations.

The presence of a soft starter makes the work of the tool safe and convenient. Corner repair grinder uncomplicated and can be done independently. For those who dare to implement repair of LBM on your own, you will need a diagram of an angle grinder the right type, tools, lubricants and this manual.

Any do-it-yourself grinder repair begins with an investigation of the malfunctions that arise. The grinder's device is quite simple. The rotating rotor transmits torque to the shaft (spindle) of the working body through a helical gear. The required working tool is installed on the spindle, be it a cut-off stone, a grinding or polishing wheel, and the required technological operation is performed.

By the way, about the shape of the tooth. Spur gears are installed on low-power grinders. Helical gears are used in grinders with a power of over 1000 watts.

Angle grinders, like any tool, break down over time. The causes of malfunctions of the grinder may be different. They appear not only from improper operation of the tool, but also from untimely replacement of carbon brushes and lubricating fluids.

Regardless of the model of the angle grinder, faults all appear in the same units. Malfunctions of grinders are conventionally divided into electrical ones. For novice repairmen, malfunctions are divided into simple and complex.

Mechanical malfunctions of angle grinder

The grinder is an angle grinder designed for cutting, grinding, polishing work. The grinder in the process of work is subjected to heavy loads, works in a dusty environment.

Excessive loads when using a grinder in the "Cut" mode cause increased wear not only of the bearing, but also of the gear teeth of the gearbox.

The main malfunction of the grinder in the mechanical part, wear or destruction of the sleeve bearing on the shaft of the large helical gear of the gearbox.

It is not difficult to troubleshoot a grinder if you have its diagram, description and recommendations for implementation at hand renovation works.

Repair of plain bearings

The weak point of any angle grinder is the bearings. And although there are few of them in the design, only three, they are the ones that most often lead to mechanical failures. Bearings are adversely affected by:

• high rotation speed;
• work at limiting conditions;
• insufficient lubrication;
• dust or dirt;
• untimely replacement or destruction of carbon brushes.

The design of any grinder provides for a quick and easy replacement of any bearing.

Malfunctions of the grinder associated with wear or destruction of the sleeve bearing on the gearbox shaft are characterized by the appearance of an unpleasant extraneous sound.

Destruction of the sleeve bearing is detected by checking the backlash of the working tool installation shaft. Determined by wiggling in different sides shaft when installing the working tool.

At the next installation of the working tool, check the shaft play by swinging its end in different directions. Backlash should be absent or minimal.

The appearance of a backlash indicates the need to replace the plain bearing.

Bearing repair consists in removing it from the housing and removing it from the gearbox shaft.

It is better to remove the bearing from the shaft using a puller. The inner race of a damaged bearing is best removed with a tap. required diameter previously screwed into the cage.

The bearings are removed from the rotor using a puller or folk method.

Keys or metal strips are inserted into the vice, the bearings are placed on the keys and, using a soft metal adapter and a hammer, weighing at least 400 g, are driven out of the shaft axis.

Grinder gearbox repair

The degree of wear of the gears of the grinder reducer is checked for the contact patch. The gearbox is pre-cleaned from old grease. A special blue is applied to the small gear of the reducer, the reducer turns. Next, you need to remove the driven large helical gear and look through a magnifying glass at the contact patch. It should occupy a total of at least 50% of the tooth surface.

Otherwise, the gears must be replaced or the tooth profile corrected. has been described more than once on the pages of this site.

But such a malfunction can only be eliminated by an experienced craftsman. Most often, licked, cut or destroyed gears are changed entirely, and in pairs.

How to properly disassemble the grinder gearbox

When repairing a gearbox of any grinder itself challenging task is the removal of gears and pressing out of the support bearing.

Dismantling the gearbox begins with removing the gearbox cover, pos. 1, and disconnecting the stator housing and freeing the rotor, pos. 2. The released rotor is clamped in a vise and the nut fastening pos. 3 of the leading small gear is unscrewed.

The spindle bearing is pressed into the gearbox cover. To get the bearing, in some grinders, you must remove the circlip securing the support bearing and remove the bearing.

The destroyed bearing pos. 1 in the gear housing pos. 2 is easiest to reach by prying it with a screwdriver.

In other models, the gear in the spindle is fixed by a circlip.

The large driven gear on the spindle is attached in several ways:

1. The gear is pressed onto the spindle.
2. The gear is secured with a key.

The small drive gear is either screwed on the shaft along the left-hand thread (in some Sparky models, the thread is right-hand), or is fixed with a keyway and clamped with a nut.

How to remove the gears of the reducer

Spur gears are used in grinders up to 1000 W, and helical gears are used in angle grinders.

Repair of gears consists in replacing them, and only in pairs.

Continuous and trouble-free operation of the gearbox is subject to availability.

Spindle lock button repair

The spindle lock button is intended for quick removal of the working tool. The button breaks when pressed while the disk rotates. Repair of the grinder consists in a complete replacement of the button.

The button should be pressed only when the grinder is completely stopped.

Electrical malfunctions of the grinder

The electrical circuit of the main part of the grinders is almost the same. The rotor transmits the torque through the gearbox to the working tool. The rotor rotates in the stator field. The control circuits consist of a button that regulates the speed and carries out smooth start tools, carbon brushes, ensuring the transmission of alternating voltage to the collector lamellas. Power is supplied to the instrument via the connecting cable.

The main electrical malfunctions of the grinder include:

• breakage of the supply cable at the entrance to the tool;
• destruction or wear of carbon brushes;
• failure of the power button;
• open or short circuit of the stator;
• open or short circuit of the rotor;
• delamination or development of collector lamellas.

Electrical malfunctions of the grinder are best determined with a tester or other device. Suitable for these whole and homemade device popularly called "Arkashka" .

The grinder scheme is quite simple and does not require special knowledge. You just need to be careful and safe when performing repair work and know electrical engineering in the amount of high school.

Finding a Broken Power Wire

One of the common breakdowns of the grinder is the inability to turn on the tool or spontaneous stop during operation. The cause of this kind of malfunction is a break in the power cable pos. 27 at the entry point. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the cable or throwing out the failed section. The fault is easily found with a tester.

If there is no tester at hand, but there is a screwdriver with a neon indicator light, then the malfunction can be found by alternately connecting the power wires to the phase.

Malfunctioning carbon brushes

The reliable operation of any power tool is highly dependent on the integrity and correct work carbon brushes. Good fit of carbon brushes, their correct location relative to the collector lamellas affects the performance of the rotor collector.

Remember! The length of the carbon electric brush cannot be less than 8 mm.

Timely replacement of carbon brushes avoids most of the malfunctions.

The wear rate of carbon brushes is characterized by the types of sparking at the collector site. Sparking should be uniform over the entire contact patch of the carbon brush and lamellas and should not exceed a length of more than 8 mm. Circular sparking indicates a malfunction in the rotor circuits.

Repair of the power button and speed controller

Power button malfunctions most often manifest themselves in a difficult and unreliable turning on of the tool at start-up. Such a malfunction spontaneously appears and disappears.

It is unacceptable to work with a grinder with a faulty power button. This fault leads to seizure cutting discs in the process of work and their destruction with unpredictable consequences.

The malfunction is eliminated by completely replacing the button with a new one.

V modern models Bulgarians have a built-in soft starter with a speed controller. It cannot be repaired, but will require complete replacement... No, advanced left-handed craftsmen can, of course, fix such a node.

Stator repair

The failure of the stator is indicated by the spontaneous spinning of the machine shaft, the grinder begins to gain maximum speed. Such a malfunction indicates the appearance of an interturn short circuit in the stator winding.

Some malfunctions can only be rectified by specialists. Prolongation of uninterrupted operation of the stator is possible only by timely cleaning, lubrication and replacement of carbon brushes and bearings.

Usually, the stator rarely fails. This is caused by frequent overheating of the tool during operation. The malfunction is manifested by strong heating of the grinder body and the appearance of a smell of burnt insulation.

In the stator, there can be both an open circuit and a short circuit. Without disassembling the stator, these faults can be easily found using the IK-32 device.

Malfunctions are eliminated by replacing the stator. For those who like to craft with their own hands, we can recommend. There is nothing complicated about it.

The stator is easily removed, but different models LBM in its own way.

Stator removal procedure:

• remove the grinder gearbox;
• remove the rotor, having previously removed the mounting bar;
• remove the plastic protection of the stator;
• unscrew the screws securing the stator in the housing;
• remove the handle cover and disconnect the power wires to the stator;
• remove the stator by tapping on the housing with a wooden hammer or block.

Repair of a rotor angle grinder

Failure of the rotor in the grinder is caused by improper use of the tool, frequent overheating, untimely replacement of carbon brushes, contact with the collector lamellas of abrasive particles and dust.

First, the length of the spark on the manifold increases, then a burning smell appears and, at the last stage, smoke. The operation of a faulty gearbox is accompanied by a knock and hum.

The destruction of even a pair of teeth leads to incorrect operation of the tool.

The life of the rotor can be extended by preventing dust from entering the tool, preventing the tool from overheating, changing carbon brushes in a timely manner, and lubricants using only those working tools and of the diameter recommended by the manufacturer of the power tool.

The rotor is a complex unit that requires repair at service centers. But lovers can do it with their own hands.

Repair of the collector and rotor lamellas

Removing the rotor is easy.

To remove the rotor from the angle grinder:

• remove the cover of the grinder handle;
• free and remove the carbon brushes;
• unscrew the screws securing the gearbox housing to the main body;
• remove the gearbox housing;
• remove the rotor.

The removed rotor must be carefully inspected. If large grooves are rubbed on the lamellas, they should be removed by turning the manifold in a lathe.

With minor grooves, the defect is eliminated by grinding. The rotor is clamped into the chuck of an electric drill and the wear is removed using a needle file and sanding paper. The process is simple.

The drill is clamped in a vise or securely attached to flat surface... The end of the rotor, on which the lamella is located, is inserted into the drill chuck and securely clamped. The bearings have been previously removed from the rotor.

The other end of the rotor must be supported with a set of wooden blocks. The drill turns on and a small number of revolutions is set. At the first stage, use coarse sanding paper No. 40..80, on the final stage smaller number 120..200.

After grinding, the grooves must be milled between the lamellas. This is best done hacksaw blade specially sharpened. After milling the grooves of the collector, the edges of the lamellas must be deburred using a diamond file. Correctly ground lamellas should be free of burrs.