Ways to align internal and external corners. Application of material and tools. Calculation of an even angle, methods for determining a 90 degree angle.

How to level a wall corner

A smooth surface is a sign quality work plasterers and puttyers.

You can glue various wallpapers onto it, cover it with paint, and cover it with panels or ceramics. If there are no workers, how to level the corner of the wall, make the surface even and smooth?

To make angles at 90 degrees, materials, tools and certain skills are required.

Why is it necessary to align the corner of the wall?

Smooth wall joints in the room – a neat appearance. If crooked walls can be hidden behind wallpaper and paintings, then the corners will make the room untidy.

Craftsmen consider another disadvantage of curvature to be the difficulty of installing tiles, gluing wallpaper, and other finishing coatings. To align the joints of the walls you need to work hard, however, in the future this will affect appearance and neatness.

How to align the internal corners of the walls in a room with your own hands

For alignment internal joints preparatory work needs to be done.

1. The cleaned surface of tiles or wallpaper is checked for the presence of voids under the plaster. It is necessary to tap the adjacent walls from the ceiling to the bottom. If the sound changes (empty), it is better to roll off the plaster. Otherwise, it may fall off on its own along with the topcoat. Another sign of emptiness is small cracks running horizontally on the floor.
2. After the coating has been collapsed, all debris is removed. This is dusty work, but it will not interfere with subsequent work.
3. Clean everything from dust and small pebbles with a dry brush. To reduce dust, you can spray the area with water from a sprayer.
4. Next, the surface is coated with a primer, preferably 2 times.
5. A plumb line is lowered from the ceiling to the floor to determine the curvature. If large deviations are detected the best option is drywall. Otherwise, the plaster layer will have to be applied several times, each dried layer being primed.

The internal corner can be aligned using several methods. In addition to drywall, ordinary gypsum or cement plaster, beacons, corner spatulas.

How to level previously plastered walls in an apartment

If the wall is crooked, then leveling the joint will be a waste of time. Curved plastered walls must be identified by the percentage of curvature. This can be done by a level, a plumb line, a rule. The walls are aligned in a circle.

Materials used for leveling walls:

1. Drywall. For large differences, a metal frame base is used. If the walls have a slight curvature, then gypsum boards are glued to the surface.
2. Chipboard. Plates are suitable for leveling not very curved surfaces.
3. Panels. When leveling the walls, use a frame base.

Depending on the room, humidity and temperature changes, the desired material is selected.

How to display a 90 degree angle on walls

When plastering walls yourself and leveling joints, use a plaster corner profile. It can be metal or plastic. On the sides of the corner there is a reinforced mesh. The profile is applied to wet plaster and use a level to set it. The reinforced mesh is covered with a plaster mixture.

The joining surface can also be made smooth using an angle spatula. It has a perfectly even shape. Without any effort, it can be used to create a 90-degree joint between walls.

It’s difficult to get 90 degrees on your own. This is only possible with small differences, where putty is applicable.

What materials are used to level wood?

The wooden surface also needs pre-treatment followed by leveling. Align wooden surface possible using materials:

1. Drywall. For installation, you must first measure the degree of curvature, then take measurements and calculate the materials. The frame base is created from wooden slats or metal profiles. For a strong frame, transverse stiffeners are made. Fixing gypsum boards in the corners is done using several technologies. The joints of the walls are smooth at 90 degrees.
2. Chipboard. They are also attached to a frame base made of wood. All elements are treated with drying oil or antiseptic agents.
3. Plywood 6-9 mm. It needs to be processed. The material is mainly used for leveling surfaces in the garage, pantry, country house. A wooden frame is also created for fastening.

Afterwards, the created surface with even corners is puttied, primed and covered finishing material– wallpaper, paint, tiles.

As well as walls and their joints wooden house leveled with materials:

• putty – layer of applied mixture 2 mm. Before applying putty, you need to treat the walls;
• cement mortars - applied to a rough surface or pre-filled with shingles or large mesh;
• use of corners. If the walls are smooth or have slight differences, metal or plastic corners. In this case, after a second layer of putty, the angle is 90 degrees.

Cement mortar shrinks. When applying a thick layer, care should be taken to ensure that the created plane does not flow down.

How to make the outer corners of walls smooth

Crooked external corners are the result of hasty work by builders. To align them, you must first determine the degree of curvature. Another reason for leveling is frequent impacts from sharp and heavy objects.

Materials and tools will be used for leveling. A level is also required.

What you need

To work, you will need a perforated corner, a putty or plaster mixture based on gypsum, a primer, regular and corner spatulas.

The work is not difficult to carry out if you have everything you need “at hand”. Even the most curved joining surface can be created at 90 degrees without much effort or time.

How to align wall corners at 90 degrees using a corner

An outer corner is easier to align than an inner one. For this, a perforated metal corner is used.

1. First, the surface is cleaned and coated with a primer.
2. Afterwards the degree of curvature is determined.
3. Plaster or putty gypsum mortar is applied to the corner on both sides.
4. The corner is pressed into it and leveled using a level.
5. Allow time for the solution to harden. All excess mass is removed. Level the sides with a spatula.
6. After drying, use sandpaper to remove excess and thin layer Apply the solution again. At the same time, the work is done carefully so that there are no tubercles.

The final step is sanding and applying primer for a finishing touch.

A perforated corner will not only level the angle at 90 degrees, but also protect the surface from impacts.

How to set a 90 degree angle when plastering walls

If the angle has a large percentage of curvature, then a different method is used. On the wall from the joint in opposite side they put up a lighthouse. Alignment goes away from him. Thus, the adjacent wall is leveled. Smooth walls form an angle of 90 degrees. The final leveling is done with an angled spatula.

Ways to check the 90 degree angle between walls inside and outside

There are several ways to check how straight the angle is. So:

1. A square is the easiest way.
2. The second method is to create a corner from a profile. Measure 30,60,90 cm from the corner along one wall. The length of one side of the profile will be equal to 90. Set aside 30,60,90,120 cm in the other direction on the adjacent wall. Length of the second side profile corner will be equal to 120 cm. From one point where 90 is set aside to another point 120 there should be a distance of 150 cm. The sides of the profile are connected with screws at 90 degrees. The edges are connected with another piece of profile equal to 150 cm. This corner is used to measure internal corner in the room in several places.
3. The outer corner is measured according to the same scheme, only all marks are marked on the floor. That is. From external corner on the floor you need to set aside a length that is a multiple of 4. Let’s say 1.6 meters. It is laid along one wall. Next, along the other wall you need to set aside 1.2 meters. Between endpoints there should be a distance of 2 meters. If so, then the angle is 90 degrees. If not, then alignment should be applied.

Before you start aligning the joints of the walls, you need to find out how much deviation or curvature they have. For leveling, both drywall, plywood, and conventional putty are used, and perforated corners. To derive an exact beautiful angle, you need to stock up on materials, tools and a little mathematical knowledge - the Pythagorean theorem.

Useful video

Concrete screed is the most famous and truly quality way arrangement of floor foundations. It is very popular among home craftsmen. We will tell you about all the varieties and features of the screed, paying attention to special attention technologies for its implementation.

Screeds – what problems are they used for?

Concrete floor screed (CSC) is in demand in both industrial and private construction. It guarantees a perfectly leveled base - durable, resistant to mechanical stress and destruction, high-strength, which is suitable for installing a variety of finishing coatings. Moreover, it is not difficult to do the screed in an apartment or private house yourself. The technology for filling it is accessible and understandable. For these reasons, BSP is so popular among craftsmen, accustomed to carry out household repairs with your own hands.

Screed is poured for different purposes. Most often it is used for high-quality leveling of the floor surface, creating a certain slope, masking utility networks, laid on the floor. BSP is usually divided into multi-layer and single-layer. The first ones are not poured at once, but in several steps. In such situations, the lower layer of the mixture plays the role of the base, and the upper one is responsible for the formation of perfect flat surface. Single-layer screeds are poured immediately over the entire treated area. With this approach, it is impossible to obtain a perfectly flat floor. Therefore, single-layer BSPs are usually used to perform work in non-residential (utility, utility) and industrial premises.

Screeds can be homogeneous or include special ones. additives. The latter are often used:

• Expanded clay. This additive increases the heat-shielding potential of the concrete solution and allows you to create screeds of greater thickness.
• Expanded polystyrene crumbs. It also increases the thermal insulation of the floor.
• Fiber fiber. They significantly increase the resistance of the base to bending, stretching and mechanical loads. Compositions with fiber fiber are used in the construction of underfloor heating systems.

Next point. Concrete screeds made using semi-dry and wet technology. They have certain differences. The semi-dry method involves the use of expanded clay crushed stone or other bulk material. It must be prepared, laid on the surface to be treated, compacted, and leveled according to a special pattern. Not every person is ready to study its features. The wet method is better known to self-taught craftsmen. They use it much more often. A little later we will talk about it in detail.

Types of BSP according to the degree of contact with the base - choose the appropriate option

Screeds are also referred to as different types depending on the level of their adhesion to the surface. From this point of view they are:

1. 1. Related.
2. 2. Floating.
3. 3. On a special layer (it is called a separation layer).

The bound screeds are poured directly onto the working base, to which it is connected. No additional heat or waterproofing is provided between them. Similar solutions are recommended for following cases: large area the base being processed, an initially flat floor, the need to obtain a BSP with a minimum mass, a low level of floors that cannot be raised.

The connected structures are highly durable. They can easily withstand significant mechanical pressure, but are susceptible to moisture. It is best to arrange them on dry floors between floors apartment building in rooms where permanent places there are household equipment, furniture and so on.

Floating ligaments are mounted on a pre-made cushion made of hydro-, sound- and heat-insulating layers. The result is a kind of slab of concrete mortar, which is not tied to the walls of the room or the floor. Such ties are necessary in mandatory reinforce. And their minimum thickness should be 5 cm. You can lay them on a floating slab parquet board, linoleum, laminated coverings and others finishing materials. It is advisable to organize such screeds exclusively in apartments on the first floors.

If the floor surface is characterized high humidity, it is recommended to fill the BSP on the separating layer. It is equipped with polymer film, roofing felt, a special coating composition, and foil-clad foam boards. These waterproofers prevent water from eroding the screed and the floor base itself. The screed on the separating layer shows all its operational advantages when installed in private houses without basements, outbuildings, garages and other premises on the ground. It is also recommended to fill it in bathrooms and toilets.

Classic grout for pouring - proven over the years

To fill traditional BSP, sand- cement mixture. Its proportions are known to everyone. For one part of cement we take three parts of sand. Fill them with water. We get a solution that can be used to fill any base (floor slabs, soil). In this case, the mixture for the screed should be prepared correctly. One mistake in choosing the material for it, a little extra water, and the solution will turn out to be of poor quality. Let's figure out how to avoid such problems.

In order for the solution to have the required characteristics, we carefully select the sand for it. We use exclusively quarry material. It is characterized by irregularly shaped grains of sand. This provides the necessary level of adhesion of the screed to the base. There should be no clay inclusions in quarry sand.

Washed river sand with grains of sand smoothed by water should not be used. The screed from it will turn out to be of poor quality. The frozen base will very quickly begin to crack and crumble. Huge value has also the volume of water with which the cement mixture is diluted. It's important not to overdo it here. If you add too much liquid, the solution will become runny. It is quite convenient to work with him. But, unfortunately, the strength of the screed will be minimal. The poured surface will be unbound and very loose. At concrete plants, water is added according to strict standards. There is no point in sticking to them in everyday life. We need to add so much water to the sand-cement composition so that the solution becomes plastic and at the same time dense.

On average, about 1 liter of liquid is required for 5 kg of mixture. In practice, this volume may vary, since both cement and sand have their own moisture content. Another important point. It is strictly forbidden to use water that contains residues of petroleum products, particles of technical oils and fats, and other pollutants. The liquid must be clean. And the mixing of the solution itself should be done in well-cleaned containers.

Ready-made mixtures - if you want to finish everything quickly

A solution for BSP can also be made using a dry mixture prepared and packaged in a factory. Such a composition initially has optimal ratios of the components included in it. Dry mixtures are characterized by the following advantages:

1. 1. They can be used to fill floor slabs in old apartment building and new building.
2. 2. In terms of performance and strength characteristics, they are similar to screeds equipped with the classic composition described above.
3. 3. Ease of use. The construction of BSP using ready-made mixtures does not require special knowledge. The technology for carrying out all work is indicated in the instructions attached to the dry composition. It is enough to strictly follow the instructions, and there will be no problems with the screed.

In addition, ready-made mixtures make it possible to make a so-called lightweight screed. It is indispensable for cases where it is impossible to install a regular concrete floor due to its high weight.

A light mixture usually consists of cement and perlite, vermiculite or expanded clay. Such compositions have been used relatively recently. But they have already become quite popular, especially when apartments in new buildings are being equipped. Their main advantage is that the lightweight floor can be used within a day after laying the dry mixture.

How to get the job done - let's get down to the procedures

Screeding in an apartment is done in several stages. First we dismantle the old one concrete base. The operation will have to be performed with a hammer drill. We act carefully so as not to damage the integrity of the floor slabs.

We clean and remove dust from the dismantled surface. We fill all defects (voids, cracks) with concrete mortar or epoxy putty. After this:

1. 1. Apply primer (penetrating) to the prepared surface using a brush or roller.
2. 2. Apply damper elastic tape around the perimeter of the room. It will eliminate contact of the screed with the walls and will serve as a compensator for expansion of the concrete structure.
3. 3. Create a beacon system. Using a building level (laser, water) we determine the zero level. Mark the floor. We install beacons (U-shaped metal profiles), attaching them to the base with self-tapping screws.
4. 4. If necessary, we carry out reinforcement of the future screed. Ready-made ones are best suited for these purposes. wire mesh with zinc coating. We choose products with 10 cm cells. Nuance. If the pouring area is small, a mesh with 5 cm cells is sufficient.

Everything is ready for pouring concrete mixture. It is recommended to do the screed at a room temperature of 15 to 25 °C. At the same time, there should be no drafts in the room. If the temperature in the room below 5° is prohibited, from 5 to 14 is possible, but undesirable, since the concrete layer will harden for a very long time.

It is most convenient to fill the surface with two people. One person mixes the solution, the second immediately treats the floor with it and levels the resulting base. We always start the procedure from the far corner of the room and move towards the exit from it. Pour the solution between the previously installed guides. We take its layer 1.5–2 centimeters above the zero level. We distribute the screed with a shovel (or, alternatively, with a trowel if the room has a small area). Using the same tools, we bayonet the concrete mixture, expelling air bubbles from it.

After the initial distribution of the composition, we put the rule on the metal guides and begin to carefully level the concrete. We perform the procedure with zigzag movements - first transverse, then translational (or vice versa). We will have to work hard, since the goal of this operation is to obtain the most smooth and even base possible. The finished screed should not be touched for a week. If it is hot outside, the coating will have to be moistened with water every day. The final hardening of the BSP is observed after 3–4 weeks.

2. Preparing surfaces for leveling.

3. Methods for leveling surfaces.

4. Plastering walls.

5. Video.

Rarely does a living space boast perfectly straight walls that were originally there. This moment can negate all efforts, aesthetics and reliability of the coating. Therefore, the first thing is to do everything as expected, without neglecting this stage.

1. How can you tell if the walls are uneven?

One of the methods using tools will bring clarity. As a rule, there are not so many of them: plumb lines, building levels and rules.

The leaders in demand are building rules and levels. In general, the optimal parameters are two or two and a half meters. In this case, they are most functional: it is required that the tool rises vertically to almost the entire height of the wall, and also that it can be easily rotated diagonally. As a rule, if it is not in the home “arsenal”, a perfectly straight slate can be used. But it should not be too thin, bending when force is applied, otherwise accurate measurements will not be possible. Its size in cross section 20x50 mm will be sufficient. A batten, level or rule is applied to the wall surface vertically, horizontally and diagonally. They monitor the size of the gaps formed between the wall and the tool, which will show the degree of surface unevenness.

Another simple one affordable way check the verticality of the wall without requiring expensive tools - use a plumb line. Even if the farm does not have such a device, it is easy to quickly make it yourself. To do this, you will need a thin but strong cord approximately three meters long, as well as a load weighing 150÷200 grams, best of all, a balanced, symmetrical shape. Using a plumb line is not difficult: to do this, a nail is driven into the wall, under the ceiling, at a distance of 25÷30 mm from the joint, onto which the cord is attached, and the weight tied to it is freely lowered vertically along the wall. The load should hang freely, not reaching the floor by 10÷15 mm. When the load calms down and does not move, you can see how distorted the surface is - measure the gaps at various points in height - and compare the results.

In addition to the evenness of the walls, it is necessary to check their perpendicularity, that is, the corners of the room must be straight. A construction square will help in determining this parameter, which is applied in several places along the entire height of the joint and the necessary marks are made. True, the square must be quite large to accurately identify possible deviations. If there is no large square, then it is better to apply the rule “ Egyptian triangle" To do this, two legs are laid from the corner along the walls, multiples of 3 and 4, and the hypotenuse should be a multiple of 5. For example, 1.5 m (0.5 × 3) are measured along one wall, 2 m (0.5 × 4), and the distance between these points in a straight line should be 2.5 m (0.5 × 5). If this is not the case, then the angle is clearly different from the straight one, and it is necessary to look for the cause and a way to eliminate it.

Probably the most optimal and accurate option is to use laser level(laser plane builder). This device sets perpendicular vertical planes, projects lines in space, along which, by simple measurements and comparisons of clearance values, it is easy to identify unevenness of wall surfaces, their correspondence to the vertical plane and mutual perpendicularity. Having determined the deviations of the walls from the required plane, the location of irregularities - depressions or convexities, their approximate height or depth is immediately assessed. — In the case where surface defects or deviations from the vertical plane are 8÷15 mm or more, the walls will have to be leveled by plastering along beacons or by installing plasterboard sheets. — If the differences do not exceed 5÷8 mm, then you can correct the surface by applying a thin layer of plaster or putty mortar.

2. Preparing surfaces for leveling

In order to understand what stages the wall leveling work consists of, it is worth considering these processes in more detail. However, before moving on to a brief description of each of the alignment methods, a few words need to be said about what is common to all technologies preparatory activities. Preparatory stage can be complicated and tedious, but you shouldn’t ignore it, as this guarantees the quality of the leveled surface and its operational durability. Particular care must be taken when preparing walls for plastering, but drywall also requires its own special approach. So, preparing walls for further leveling includes several important operations, which include the following:

The first step is to completely clean the walls. decorative covering, if it is present on surfaces, it is removed old paint or wallpaper. These processes are carried out in different ways, which are described in detail in a separate article.

After the walls are freed from the old finish, the plaster layer will be exposed, which requires the most thorough examination. Such an inspection is necessary, since cracks may have appeared on it during operation, or peeling, partial or complete, cannot be ruled out. Depending on the extent of damage to the old plaster layer, it will have to be completely removed or proper repairs made. If this layer is thick enough, low-quality material is used for it, and its surface is uneven, then it is better to get rid of it completely. If the wall has large protrusions, they will have to be knocked down, and small protrusions will have to be sanded or cleaned off with a wire brush.

If “wet” work is expected on the wall, then to ensure electrical safety the room will most likely have to be de-energized. Usually in such cases it is planned to replace sockets and switches, which means that the old ones must be dismantled and then the exposed wires must be insulated.

Having cleaned or repaired the wall surface, it needs to be primed several times - this is to strengthen and remove dust from the surface and to create conditions for reliable adhesion between the surface and the new leveling solution.

After the primer has completely dried, you can proceed to applying putty, plaster, or installing special beacon profiles, along which the surfaces will be leveled.

If you plan to level with plaster wooden walls, then they are cleaned of dust and primed with an antiseptic primer for wood. After this, the dried walls are sheathed wooden slats- shingles, which will create good adhesion between the mortar and wood.

3. Methods for leveling surfaces

The choice of method for leveling walls directly depends on their condition, that is, whether they have significant curvatures, or whether it is simply necessary to eliminate a slight surface relief that can appear through layers of paint or In fact, there are not many technological methods for leveling walls. They have been used for decades, but with the advent of new building materials- are constantly being improved. So, leveling the walls is carried out in the following ways:

Plastering, that is, applying a special leveling layer to the surface mortar. In turn, this method can be divided into two types - alignment of walls using beacons and without their use.

Installation of plasterboard sheets that determine the desired evenness of the wall surface (often also called “dry plaster”). This leveling option is also divided into two different approaches - fixing sheets to a frame, or frameless fastening of gypsum fiber boards directly to the wall.

Leveling walls with putty This method of putting the surface in order is used in combination with the other two mentioned above, or independently. If the walls have a smooth surface without major geometric distortions, but there are small irregularities on it, then putty will help bring them to ideal smoothness.

4. Plastering walls

A few words about leveling solutions Currently in construction stores there is a very wide range of ready-made building mixtures intended for plastering works. They can be on different bases

Cement-based plasters are used for exterior work, as well as for rooms with increased level humidity;

Gypsum mixtures are suitable for walls made of almost any material, but their scope is limited only to interior decoration. However, many home decorators and homeowners prefer to cook plaster solutions on one's own. And the basis for this, in addition to cement or gypsum, can also be lime or clay. Lime and cement-lime mortars have proven themselves for external and interior decoration, and clay-based plasters seem generally inexpensive (if free raw materials are available) and are suitable for leveling wooden, clay or brick walls.

5. Video

Sometimes you want to make a number of wood products perfectly even, so that their surface is glossy and smooth, like glass. WITH modern materials and accessible hand tools, this can be done easily even by a beginner. True, sometimes you need to practice using materials that are more accessible and at hand, so as not to spoil the finished product during such decoration. In this step by step instructions we will tell you how to make a perfectly smooth wooden surface with your own hands.

Materials

Before you start, you will need to prepare:

• sandpaper different grain sizes (than more options you will have it, so much the better);
• protective gloves;
• ingredients for breeding epoxy resin;
• empty container;
• wooden spatula;
• plastic polish;
• polishing cloths;
• blowtorch.

Step 1. First, you need to carefully process the wooden surface that you decide to make perfectly smooth. This step is very important and the success of your planned event depends on it.

Take coarse-grained paper and cover the entire surface with it. After this, move on to a slightly finer grit paper and continue until you have used all the paper you have collected and the wood surface is very smooth.

Periodically as you work, brush off any dust that forms with a rag or dry brush.

Step 2. Make sure that the prepared surface is free of dust and has no deep scratches. If there are any, the flaws will come out at the next stages. Get rid of all uneven surfaces while sanding the surface.

Step 3. Take the ingredients for diluting the epoxy resin solution and mix them in an empty container in the ratio specified by the manufacturer in the instructions.

When mixing the ingredients, stir them using a wooden spatula. Try not to stir the mixture too much to prevent bubbles from forming.

Step 4. Pour the prepared epoxy resin solution onto the prepared wooden surface.
You can practice in advance on any other wooden products. You need to determine for yourself optimal height during a resin spill. If you raise the container too high, bubbles will form on the surface. They will not look aesthetically pleasing in the finished product. If you pour too low, you won't get a perfectly smooth surface either. The resin will have to be leveled manually over the surface.

Step 5. If after pouring the epoxy resin you see a small amount of bubbles. Treat them immediately by bringing a lit blowtorch to the surface.

Under the influence of the flame, the bubbles will burst and the surface will become smooth. Do not hold the lamp for too long, otherwise the composition will burn.

Step 6. After the epoxy resin has dried, which usually takes about a day, take fine-grit sandpaper and thoroughly sand the surface. Pour a second layer of epoxy resin. Likewise, if bubbles form, treat it with a blowtorch.

Step 7. Once the epoxy is thoroughly dry, use plastic polish and a polishing cloth. Rub your product thoroughly. Ready.

, arises before craftsmen who plan to equip their possessions with small architectural forms. During construction, you can use ready-made mixtures from the manufacturer or knead concrete at home on one's own. In order for the finished structure to be strong, smooth and durable, all proportions and technology for preparing the solution must be correctly maintained.

For various operating conditions concrete structures it is required to purchase ingredients with certain characteristics. The service life of cast products will be influenced by material characteristics such as frost resistance, filtration coefficient and abrasion resistance. Indicators such as waterproof, strength and uniformity, are determined by the type of fillers that are added to the mixture when mixing it. Knowing how to make concrete with your own hands, you can make structures of any size and level of complexity from it. Modern technologies allow even a novice builder make your own concrete with any technical characteristics. Let's consider how to make strong concrete with a smooth surface and high aesthetic characteristics.

How to prepare concrete mortar yourself

The purposes for using concrete are very different. The most durable concrete is used for arranging foundations and load-bearing structures that experience heavy loads. Coarse-cell concrete has low density and weight. The concrete grade 200 used for its production is not very durable. Filtration in such material is much higher, which makes it not resistant to moisture. However, this type of concrete is winter-friendly, since if it gets wet, the water has room to expand when freezing without destroying the structure of the material. The main question that builders have to solve is: how to make concrete waterproof. This is especially true when buildings with basements in wet soil or monolithic ones are erected. Here, filtration of the material should be completely absent.

To get the desired result, you need to study the reasons for the appearance of pores in concrete through which moisture enters the structure.

The following factors influence the decrease in the density of hardened concrete:

• insufficient reinforcement of the form, which caused the appearance of cracks;
• poor mixing of the mixture, as a result of which the hydration reaction did not complete;
• use of low quality cement;
• adding excess water to the solution;
• poor-quality sealing, which leaves a lot of air bubbles in the material.

In order for the solution to be of high quality, it is necessary to maintain proportions when mixing the solution. If you choose the optimal ratio of sand, crushed stone and cement, this will allow you to produce structures with high performance characteristics. Even when using grade 300 cement, high water resistance of finished products can be achieved.

The solution is prepared using a concrete mixer in the following sequence:

1. Sand and cement are poured into its neck. Depending on the construction goal, their proportions can vary between 2.5-4:1. The mixture is mixed well.

2. Water is added. The best option is the correspondence of its quantity to the volume of cement. The solution is mixed until homogeneous. If colored concrete is being prepared, then dye is added to it.

3. Crushed stone is poured. It is first cleaned of soil and clay. This is necessary to achieve purity of the solution. After prolonged mixing, the solution is poured into the mold.

To prevent concrete from cracking due to frost in winter, special waterproofing additives are added to it. After the concrete is poured into the formwork, measures must be taken to ensure its uniform shrinkage. To do this, its surface is regularly moistened and covered with cloth or cellophane.

How to achieve a perfectly flat surface

Smooth surface concrete is necessary in cases where it will not be covered finishing. This process begins immediately after the solution is poured into the formwork and compacted. Removing air bubbles avoids the formation of marks on the surface from their release and makes the concrete more durable.

As a rule, initial alignment is carried out manually using beacons and hand tools. Beacons serve to maintain a given level and as guides for rules. The solution is applied between the beacons and distributed throughout the entire volume of the mold using wide movements with slight vibration. Excess material is pulled together using the rule. You can buy the rule or make it yourself, using available materials. Your tool will be useful for future work.

Ironing equipment is a good help for smoothing the solution. They have a perfectly smooth glossy surface. When the trowel moves through the solution, the crushed stone is lowered from its surface. This allows you to achieve an almost perfectly flat surface without depressions or protrusions. The smoothers are available equipped with a motor or driven by muscle force.

After the concrete is leveled with a trowel, it is left alone for a day. During this time, the solution thickens, but retains some pliability. At this stage, it is adjusted using special devices. They cut off all the protrusions to a given level, filling the potholes and depressions with the removed substance. Such equipment is quite expensive and is purchased only by large industrial companies.

You can level concrete manually if you know how to properly work with a spatula and other finishing tools. A smooth surface is created by applying materials to concrete that cover all unevenness and roughness. The simplest and cheapest way is to use bulk cement. It is poured onto the concrete a few hours after pouring. By absorbing moisture from the solution, the cement becomes liquid. It is rubbed evenly over the surface with a wide spatula or rule.

How to improve the quality of concrete

Today there are many ways to make durable waterproof concrete without spending extra money on expensive brands of cement and crushed granite. For this purpose, various plasticizers are used, both factory-made and in-house produced.

Made with my own hands a solution with plasticizers allows you to solve the following problems:

• facilitate the process of laying concrete in forms;
• prevent the solution from disintegrating into its constituent fractions;
• increase the temperature range of use of the material;
• give concrete hydrophobic properties;
• improve the plasticity of finished products;
• reduce the time for adhesion of the solution to the embedded parts;
• speed up or increase the drying time;
• do lightweight concrete and porous.

If you know how to make a plasticizer for concrete with your own hands, then you can avoid additional costs for purchasing branded drugs. Substances such as washing powder for automatic machines, stationery glue, liquid soap or slaked lime. When choosing detergents It should be taken into account that they form abundant foam when mixed.

Plasticizers must be added after mixing sand and cement. If this is done at the end of mixing, then most of the additives will be used to envelop the filler, which will not allow achieving the desired effect. The proportions for each filler should vary within 0.2-3% of the total volume of the mixture.

Another way to improve the quality of concrete is to apply polymer impregnations to its surface. Work must be carried out on completely hardened concrete. Polyurethane impregnation is applied to the surface in accordance with the instructions. After complete hardening polymer coating it is leveled and polished. The applied layer is plastic and completely sealed.

How to color concrete

There are two ways to make colored concrete. The first is to add dye to the mixture at the stage of its preparation. Ready solution will have the same color and shade throughout its entire volume. Abrasion will not affect the quality of its surface in any way. This method is used for the manufacture of structures with high traffic loads. As a rule, colored concrete is used to create platforms, paths and manufacture paving slabs. When selecting a dye, it should be taken into account that it should not impair the strength finished product and be resistant to the hydration process. The second method involves applying pigment to the finished surface. Dyes are dissolved in polymer impregnations and applied to concrete. This ensures a strong and tight adhesion of the dye to the base.