How to treat trees against pests in the fall. Autumn garden spraying

Have you ever paid attention to urban greenery? All of them do not look very aesthetically pleasing: all kinds of bugs are frolicking on the trunks, the branches and foliage look unhealthy. It's all about improper care and failure to perform such an important procedure as tree treatment in autumn. Why is it carried out? this event, as well as what tools to use we will talk about in this article.

Autumn work

  • Extermination of insect pests;
  • Fight against pathogenic microorganisms;
  • Defense against winter pests(hares, mice) and protection from frost.

These problems are solved using several procedures:

Treatment of trees and shrubs in autumn for disease prevention- spraying plants with fungicides.
If this activity is not carried out, microorganisms (pathogens) can spread throughout all plantings. Warm, humid weather allows bacteria to multiply quickly. If you do not spray your garden in time, it will suffer from various diseases and fungi.

A mandatory procedure in garden care is treating trees against pests. Just at this time, insects are about to go into hibernation. They make their winter roosts in the bark of plants, on branches, and in tree trunks. To destroy most types of insects, it is enough to carry out sanitary pruning and digging of tree trunk circles. To destroy insects hiding in the pores of the old bark, the trunks are whitewashed.

Processing tree trunks includes the following procedures:

  • cleaning the trunks from old bark using a scraper or a metal brush;
  • treatment of injuries (plaster with garden pitch);
  • whitewashing with a special whitening compound.

This treatment will destroy the “nests” and burn the eggs and pupae of insects. For effectiveness, insecticides are added to the whitewash composition.

Winter treatment of trees also includes installation of insulation on bollards - this is the most weak point in a plant, if the tree gets frostbite on the trunk, the chances of its survival will be close to zero. To protect the plant, the trunk is wrapped with roofing felt or roofing felt (height - about 1 m); in particularly frosty areas, it is recommended to lay a layer of burlap or straw between the roofing felt and the bark.

Provide safety from rodents very simple:

  • place poisonous baits in the garden (will save you from mice);
  • wrap the trunk over the “fur coat” with barbed wire (protection from hares).

How to spray plants

On at the moment gardening stores sell a wide range of special compounds(often combined fungicides and insecticides) for autumn garden spraying. However, we will consider the most popular means.

  • It is held until mid-October urea treatment. This is an excellent remedy for combating fungal diseases, as well as scabs and spots. In addition, urea perfectly burns insect eggs and harms pupae. However, using urea at the end of the autumn season (closer to winter) is extremely undesirable, since this composition saturates the plant with nitrogen. Urea is often used as a nitrogen fertilizer. If you spray the garden with it for the winter, vegetative processes are activated in the plants. The garden will not have time to prepare for sleep before the onset of frost and, most likely, will die. Therefore, treating trees with urea in the fall is possible, but only until the end of October. A month before the onset of frost, you should not spray the garden with urea.
  • Other fungicides can be used to combat scab, powdery mildew and putrefactive diseases. For example, excellent result shows processing copper sulfate. This product can be used at any time of the year.
  • If you add slaked lime to copper sulfate in a 1:1 ratio, you get the so-called Bordeaux mixture - an excellent composition for simultaneously combating diseases and insects. Processing Bordeaux mixture – the most popular type of spraying today. The product has a soft bluish tint, so if your plants become covered with a film heavenly color, no need to worry. Over time, the color will wash off, but there will be no evil bugs or harmful microorganisms left in the garden. :)
  • Sometimes used in areas treatment with iron sulfate, This is especially true for apple orchards. This fungicide acts similarly to copper sulfate, but additionally saturates the vegetation with iron. This is an extremely important trace element for the Apple tribe. It takes an active part in many oxidative processes in apple trees, plums, cherries, and peaches.

Additionally in copper or iron sulfate You can add insecticides. This will provide more effective fight with insects.

After carrying out all the autumn procedures (pruning, treating trees with fungicides in the fall, whitewashing, installing insulation and protective equipment), do not forget to clean the planting area. You do not process waste in the form of fallen leaves and cut branches, but insect pests can overwinter in them and pathogens can multiply. Therefore, all garbage must be collected and set on fire. :)

Also, all fruit trees need pour plenty of water and bleach. The thickness of the whitewash should not be more than 2-3
mm. Whitening is usually done with diluted lime: for young seedlings with delicate bark, a weak solution is prepared; for old trees, the solution should be richer. For example, for young trees take 1 kg of slaked lime per 10 liters of water + 1 kg of clay and 100 grams of copper sulfate (for old trees take 2 kg of lime and a double dose of copper sulfate). If you add another 100 g of cow manure to this whitewash for thickness (you should get the consistency of thick sour cream) and a little finely chopped straw, you get the so-called clay mash, which is used to cover wounds and cracks on tree trunks. This putty performs protective functions well and does not crack for a long time.

Cracks and wounds on fruit trees can also be cover with garden varnish. You can buy it in the store or prepare it yourself. How to prepare garden varnish: melt 100 g of rosin and 200 g of beeswax separately over low heat, then combine and add 100 g of unsalted fat. After the fat has melted, the mixture must be poured into cold water. That's it, the garden varnish is ready, now you can take it out of the water and roll it into a ball. Before use (for plasticity), it is slightly warmed up. This putty for sealing tree wounds can be stored for a very long time.

Pruning fruit trees In the fall, it is advisable to carry out only in the southern regions, where winters are short and warm. Pruning trees in the northern and middle regions in September-October can lead to freezing of the bark at the cut site, drying out of the wood and, ultimately, to the death of the tree. In these areas, pruning occurs in the spring, usually in mid- to late March.

Many gardeners strive to use as little as possible. chemicals pest control of fruit trees. Find out what control measures and folk remedies will protect the harvest in the garden.

Work to protect the garden from pests can be divided into autumn-winter and spring-summer.

Autumn-winter work in the garden

  1. After harvesting, collect all the carrion under the trees and destroy it.
  2. Treat the plants with a 2-3% solution of copper sulfate.
  3. Put hunting belts on the trunks and before the onset of constant cold weather, systematically check them for the presence of pests that have settled in for the winter.
  4. In the spring, spray the trees with 3% Bordeaux mixture (before the buds open).
  5. With the coming warm weather collect and burn hunting belts, destroy weeds.

Protecting the garden from pests in spring and summer

Many garden and wild field plants are excellent pest control products. Concentrates are prepared from them in advance, and then working solutions for spraying. Green or regular greens are added to solutions and infusions. laundry soap for better adhesion.

For the first early spring spraying(closed bud phase, beginning of leaf blooming) prepare the following infusion: fill 1/3 of a 3 liter container in equal parts peel of onion, garlic, autumn nut leaves, add 2 tbsp. shag or tobacco. Pour boiling water over the mixture. Let it brew for 7-10 days, then strain. If necessary, the concentrate can be diluted in 10-12 liters of water and treated with trees. It is also a good preventative against pests that damage buds.

With the appearance of young leaves the most dangerous pest the garden is aphids (green, red, black). You can treat tree crowns with the same solution or prepare decoctions from autumn leaves nut or tobacco, infusions of yarrow herb or wormwood.

After the flowering of apple, plum, cherry, pear trees You can prepare and use a concentrate made from autumn nut leaves, which is prepared in the fall. Metal barrel fill 2/3 with leaves, compact thoroughly and pour boiling water, close and leave until spring. This is a mother solution, 1 liter of which must be diluted in 10 liters of water and only then sprayed on the trees. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of 7-10 days.

You can also use an infusion of yarrow or wormwood, which destroys not only aphids, but also mites, codling moth caterpillars, cutworms, honeymoths, sawflies, weevils and other pests. Prepare a concentrate from a mixture of 1 kg of dry herb and 5 l hot water, let it brew for 1-2 days and then boil for 0.5 hours. After cooling, strain and add 10 liters of water. Spray the trees twice every 7-10 days.

To combat aphid larvae You can use tomato tops. Finely chop 4 kg of fresh (2 kg dry) tomato tops, place in a container and pour 10 liters for 0.5 hours cold water, then boil this mixture, stirring, for another 0.5 hour. Strain the cooled broth, add 5 liters of water and a little soap, carefully spray the crowns from the top to the base of the trunk.

If during the growing season there appeared thrips, small caterpillars, aphids, slugs, copperheads treat the plants with infusion or decoction hot pepper. It is advisable to prepare them in advance, since subsequent infusion lasts at least 10 days. To prepare the infusion concentrate, chop 1 kg of dry pepper pods, pour hot water, close and leave for 10 days. Dilute 100-150 g of concentrate in 10 liters of water. The decoction is prepared faster. To do this, grind 1 kg of raw material, pour in 10 liters of water and boil for 2 hours. Strain the cooled broth, dilute 2 times with water. Spray the trees with the resulting solution.

Over time, pests develop an addiction to any infusions and decoctions. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare several compositions of decoctions in advance and use them alternately.

Autumn is a difficult period for gardeners: in addition to cleaning late varieties The plants will need to be pruned and prepared for winter. But the most important thing is that the garden needs to be treated. What kind of procedure is this, why is it needed, what preparations are best to use, i.e. how to treat the garden in the fall - more on this and much more below.

Autumn processing: several rules and principles

Several treatments are required per season orchard. For this, not only folk remedies are usually used, but also more effective and aggressive chemicals. Therefore, in order to protect themselves, every gardener must prepare protective equipment: gloves, a respirator, a robe.

Not only in spring, but also in autumn, the garden must be fed and fertilized from pests

Why are all these products needed if you can simply wash your hands and face afterwards to remove droplets that have fallen on them?

  1. A respirator will protect your respiratory system.
  2. Glasses will prevent the solution from splashing onto the mucous membrane of the eyes.
  3. Closed clothing will prevent the drug from getting on the body - the components of any drug can cause allergic reactions, even when their packaging indicates that the drug has little danger.
  4. During the procedure you should not drink water or smoke.
  5. Use for diluting solutions food utensils unacceptable.
  6. Residues of any product should be disposed of only in places that are inaccessible to pets, birds and children. Pour them out storm sewer Or you can’t go into a compost pit either.

It is also very important to know that the treatment must be carried out with an eye on the weather: if it is raining, windy or simply slushy outside, no work can be carried out. It is better to wait for a dry and windless day and only then do everything that needs to be done.

How many times do you treat trees per season?

Pears, apple trees, and plums are treated several times a season.

But these are only approximate dates: if the trees become sick or a pest appears, then experienced gardeners recommend not adhering to the described schedule, but treating the damaged trees immediately.

If there are no diseases, then late treatment should be carried out no earlier than November, otherwise the procedure will cause premature leaf fall, which will significantly weaken the trees.

How to prepare plants for the procedure?

The most popular method of fertilization is spraying

During the winter, all insects look for a place where they can sit out the cold season. Such a “warm place” for them is the soil, bark, and fallen leaves. There is no better time to destroy these unpleasant garden inhabitants than autumn. Scab, spotting, putrefactive diseases and many other misfortunes will go away if you treat the garden exactly autumn period. If you do not carry out the treatment procedure, then pests will remain under the bark. Their presence in the spring will significantly slow down the vegetative process, and the trees will wake up much later.

But in order for the work to be carried out efficiently and give the desired effect, it is necessary to first prepare the trees. The preparatory process depends on how old the seedlings are and is performed as follows:

  1. From trees older than 6 years old, lichens and old bark are removed with a metal brush. This is necessary in order to expose the places where pathogens of various diseases hide, and they did not have the opportunity to hide.
  2. Immediately after completion of the procedure, spray the trees.

The last spraying should be carried out when the leaves have completely fallen off. It is advisable to do this after frost sets in. But first, it is imperative to clear the garden area of ​​weeds, branches and leaves so that the remaining pests in them do not crawl out of their shelters in winter.

Choice of funds: what to choose?

For autumn spraying of an orchard, several preparations are considered the best. This is copper or iron sulfate (popular treatment with copper sulfate), urea. Which one to choose depends on the type of threat. But since the garden is usually affected not by one, but by several types of pests, it is advisable to spray the plants not with one preparation, but with several. This is a preventative treatment against pests.

It is necessary to treat not only the trunk and branches, but also the soil near the tree - this will be both protection and fertilizer at the same time. When preparing the solution, you must not violate the indicators indicated on the packaging: if you use an overly concentrated solution during the first treatment, the leaves will get burned. Because of this, they will fall off earlier and the plants will not receive enough of the substances they need, which can lead to a decrease in the frost resistance of fruit trees.

Autumn garden treatment

For spraying, each gardener purchases a specialized apparatus. It can be manual or mechanical. They differ in operating principle and cost. Which one is more convenient to work with? Of course, with a mechanical device, since when working with a manual analogue, it is necessary to periodically pump it up.

For more effective protection To protect against pests, the trees must be whitewashed with lime so that a layer of at least 3 mm remains on the bark. In addition, you need to water the soil around each plant generously.

You can prepare a solution for whitewashing from the following components:

  1. Lime (3 kg).
  2. Casein glue (80 g).
  3. Copper sulfate (0.5 kg)
  4. Water. There should be enough of it so that the mixture is close to sour cream in thickness.

There is another option for preparing the solution. Need to take

  1. One kg of clay.
  2. Two kg of slaked lime.
  3. Copper sulfate 250g.
  4. Cow dung.

Dilute until creamy thick. Whitewashing can also be done with acrylic or water-based paints.

Thanks to whitewashing, a layer is formed on the trees that will not allow pests, insects, and various microorganisms that are carriers of various viruses to pass through. To increase the effectiveness of whitewashing, you can add various insecticides to the solution.

If there are cracks and wounds on the tree, in addition to using lime, other means will be needed:

  1. Mix finely chopped straw with cow dung and apply this composition to the damage. This will prevent further cracking and help the damage heal.
  2. Use garden varnish to treat damage. If you don’t have it on hand, you can prepare the product yourself by melting it separately beeswax(200 g) and rosin (100 g). Then both components are mixed, unsalted fat (100g) is added and the mixture is treated with a warm liquid.

For autumn spraying it is necessary to use special fertilizers and poisons

Chemicals - how to use them and is it necessary?

How to cultivate a garden in autumn

Ignorant use of chemicals in the garden can lead to the death of shrubs and trees, and the land will become unsuitable for growing not only garden but also vegetable plants in the coming years. Therefore, beginners should use chemicals carefully when treating trees and bushes. Read also the article: → “How to get rid of scab on a pear”

Chemicals that can be used to treat plants against fungi or bacterial diseases are insecticides and fungicides. Which of them can be used for certain diseases? The information in the table below will help you understand the application:

Drug name

Purpose

Features of application

"Fungaflor"

Fungicide

To delete powdery mildew, klyasterosporiosis, scab, fruit rot and other diseases For 10 liters of liquid, 3 grams of the drug is used. Each tree requires from 2 to 5 liters of solution, depending on its height.

"Aktara"

Insecticide To combat various insects, effective at any stage of their development The solution should only be prepared in an open space.

"Extra-Confidor"

Systemic insecticide Used to control various sucking and gnawing pests The solution is prepared in strict accordance with the instructions

"Benomil"

Systemic fungicide. Has a wide spectrum of action Used in the fight against diseases. It can also serve as a prophylactic agent. Recommended for use in all climatic zones. Can be combined with insecticides, fungicides, growth regulators, pesticides.

"Inta-Vir"

Insecticide Is effective means against Lepidoptera, Homoptera, Coleoptera.

One tablet is dissolved in 50 ml of water, and then the volume is adjusted to 10 liters.

If the product has not been used before and it is unknown how plants will react to it, it is necessary to test it for harmfulness. It is as follows:

  1. Spray several branches with the new product.
  2. Inspect them in a week.
  3. If spots, traces of deadness or similar other manifestations are found, the product should not be used.

Pruning is an important part of autumn garden care.

Spraying must be carried out with extreme caution

This action depends on the location of the site. For example, for northern regions, pruning in the fall is undesirable - because of this, the plants will weaken and may freeze. In the southern regions, for example in Crimea, not only autumn, but also winter pruning of trees is possible. It is especially important to prune young plants at this time, and you need to remove only those branches that interfere with others.

Experts recommend maintaining tiers during the pruning process, which is very important for obtaining fruit later. high quality. Layering is a phenomenon in which the higher the branches are located, the thinner they should be and vice versa, but in no case should the branches below be thinner than those located below. This is an anomaly and such a plant will not produce good fruits. Read also: → “How to trim walnut? Scheme, rules and deadlines"

Preparing for winter: tying trees

All of the above procedures represent a preparatory complex, the purpose of which is to prepare for winter period garden. But the list of measures taken will be incomplete, and sometimes ineffective, without binding. This is the name for the procedure of tying tree trunks with spruce or raspberry branches before the onset of frost. If they are not available, you can use roofing felt, metal mesh, or film.

Before fertilizing the soil, it must be prepared for this.

Then earth is poured around the resulting structure. This is necessary so that no rodent can harm the tree. In addition, thanks to the strapping in the spring from the influence of the first sun rays Burns will not appear on the plants. When snow falls in winter, you can sprinkle it on the harness. If there is a lot of snow, it can be further compacted around the trees to ensure greater thermal balance. Garden cultivation in Crimea is carried out taking into account the usual absence of snow.

If rodents are summer cottage frequent guests, then autumn processing includes the installation of baits, traps, traps. When the frosts recede, the strapping structures must be removed. To do this, it is advisable to look at the weather forecast and choose a cloudy day so that the bark adapts to sunlight. Read also: → “Planting fruit trees in autumn”

The most common beginner mistakes

There are several important points, which every beginner should definitely know about, including three garden processing mistakes:

  1. Do not apply treatment before the leaves fall. If this happens, it will hardly be possible to expect a good harvest next year.
  2. When wrapping trees to protect them from frost in the northern regions, straw, hay, old jackets, etc. are used. This is impossible, as these materials can harbor mice, and they will definitely destroy the tree.
  3. New preparations should not be used without first checking the plant reaction.
  4. There is no need to purchase preparations for processing without a label, for bottling, even from a familiar seller - no one will give a guarantee that you purchased exactly the product that was named by the seller. It is also impossible to predict what the effect will be. So is it worth the risk - after saving a little money you can lose your garden.
  5. If you have not had to do pruning before, you need to turn to an experienced gardener neighbor for help and not experiment on your own.

Answers to questions about how to cultivate a garden in the fall

Question No. 1. Is it possible to fertilize the soil with manure in the fall?

Can. If there is such a need. Typically, in the fall, fertilizer is aimed at eliminating plant diseases and eliminating pests. Therefore, special, professional fertilizers are most often used.

Question No. 2. Is it possible to spray in the rain?

No. If you spray in the rain, the poison will quickly wash off. Therefore, despite the bad weather in autumn, it is better to choose a day without precipitation. If it happens that it rains the next day, then you don’t have to worry, the necessary amount of the substance will already be absorbed into the plant.

After harvesting, it is important to properly prepare the plants for wintering. Timely and correct processing protecting the garden from pests and diseases in the fall is the key to active fruiting of trees and shrubs in the next season. Get to know the timing, stages and methods of processing and protection garden plants, effective drugs And folk recipes, adopt the best practices experienced gardeners and expert advice.

Why treat your garden in the fall?

Many novice gardeners ask: is it necessary to treat the garden from pests and fight diseases in the fall? Perhaps this period is the most important if you are trying to get big harvest fruits and berries. If you miss time, the pests will have time to hide on the “ winter apartments" After that, there is no way to smoke them out of there.

The plot is ready for wintering

Insects hide under foliage, inside dried twigs, cracks in the bark, and burrow deep into the soil of the tree trunk.

The list of work that is coming in the fall is impressive:

  • cleaning up fallen leaves and debris;
  • digging up the earth;
  • fertilization;
  • pruning;
  • whitewash;
  • spraying;
  • tying trunks against rodents.

Cleaning leaves in the garden

The annual autumn treatment of the garden against pests and diseases begins a month before the onset of persistent frosts. In this case, you need to wait until the leaves fall, otherwise the fallen leaves will negate all the efforts made. Digging up the soil is aimed at combating insects wintering in top layer soil.

Soil fertilization is carried out mineral fertilizers or rotten organic matter. This will be a good foundation for the future harvest. Before wintering, the garden must be properly fertilized with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.

Trees and shrubs are pruned in accordance with existing rules for each crop. Main principle- “to make it beautiful.” The branches should not interfere with each other and should not grow inside the crown.

Whitewashing is needed in order for lime to act on fungal spores and bacteria. Essentially, the trunks and branches are disinfected.

Annual spraying of the garden against pests overwintering on plants in the fall is a mandatory agrochemical method for protecting the garden from pests and diseases in the fall for any competent gardener.

Autumn tree pruning

Hares and small rodents - lovers of the delicate bark of young trees - can cause great harm. Frequent fences around the garden help keep hares away. From mice - traps, compacted snow, tying trees with various materials.

Timing of autumn garden processing

The answer to an important question is when to treat the garden against diseases and pests in the fall, in different regions countries are different. The country is huge, there are many climatic zones, where leaf fall does not occur simultaneously. You should focus on the time when leaves completely fall from trees and shrubs.

Preparing for gardening

The first autumn work falls at the end of September or beginning of October. The main goal of treating the garden from pests and diseases in September is to rid the plants as much as possible of insects, their larvae, rodents, and also to disinfect them from fungi and bacteria.

Dried leaves, weeds, cut dead branches are raked to one place away from the garden and burned or sent to deep compost pits. Deep so that pests cannot get out and settle on the trees again. There are recommendations to bury foliage in tree trunk circles for additional nutrition. This is absolutely wrong advice.

Masking a compost pit in the form of a gazebo

Insects lay eggs on the underside of leaves. When the tree sheds them, the emerging pupae remain to overwinter under the leaves. And if you bury dry leaves, then in this way all the conditions are created for a comfortable winter for the one you would like to rid your plantings of. Therefore, the consequences of leaf fall are removed, burned, or sent to compost away from the garden.

Straw should not be left in the tree trunk circle, as it attracts rodents. There is a risk of endangering the bark of young trees, which mice love so much.

Various agrotechnical and agrochemical control methods are carried out in different terms. Chemical treatment of the garden against pests in late autumn is carried out before the onset of stable frosts, after the leaves have completely fallen.

Digging the garden in autumn

One of the simplest but effective methods is digging up the soil. Garden soil should be loose and fertilized all year round, but it is the autumn digging that is most important.

In the fall, they dig the ground not only to loosen it, but to turn over the soil layer. After the insects and their larvae have settled down to sleep, you should dig up and turn over the layers of earth so that the nests are on the surface, and frost finishes the job.

Digging of tree trunk circles is required

In addition to killing insects, autumn treatment of the garden against pests and diseases has another effect - when turning over, the top nutrient layer of soil is closer to the roots, which facilitates the delivery of the necessary nutrition.

You should dig with caution, without damaging the roots that are close to the surface - 5–15 cm. The process is not carried out with a shovel, which can cut root system, and with a fork, holding them parallel to the direction of the roots. It is not recommended to break clods of earth; this way moisture from rain is better retained and snow is retained. In the rows you need to dig 15–20 cm deep, and along the crown projection no deeper than 10–15 cm.

Spraying as pest control

At a later time, after whitewashing and digging, you should begin chemical treatment of fruit plants. Timely processing garden in October from pests and diseases will be a good investment in the future harvest. Some drugs also act as plant food.

Spraying the autumn garden

Treatment is carried out with various pesticides, since different types insects and diseases, not all drugs have the same effect. The sequence and timing of treatments should be observed so as not to harm the plants themselves.

Treating the garden in the fall according to all the rules

The best time is the end of leaf fall. When the soil has already been dug up, the trunks have been whitewashed, and leaves and dry branches have been collected into compost pits, you can begin to treat the trees and shrubs with agrochemicals.

Home processing equipment

Just a few years ago, choosing a sprayer was not difficult. There were several models on sale. There is a wide variety of these products on the market now. When purchasing, you should take into account the design features and the length of the “fishing rod” of the device. In addition to the fact that sprayers are produced in various capacities, they are divided into types:

  • battery;
  • gasoline;
  • pump-action;
  • lever

Spraying the garden with a backpack sprayer

They produce wheeled and backpack sprayers. Backpacks are more comfortable; with them you can climb directly onto a tree. Using a wheeled sprayer with a large tank, it is treated large area garden without refueling, spray all trees and shrubs.

Backpack sprayers are divided into lever and pump type. Lever ones are more convenient, as they make it possible to pump the solution manually without removing the sprayer from the shoulders. When buying a spraying device, you should pay attention to the “arrow” of the mechanism. The longer it is, the better. There are devices with a “rod” length of one and a half meters. They are purchased by experienced summer residents.

In addition to the sprayer itself, to work on treating the garden against pests in late autumn, you will need:

  • ladder;
  • respiratory mask or gauze medical bandage;
  • gloves;
  • glasses so that the aggressive solution does not come into contact with the skin or mucous membranes.

DIY processing rules

Breeders are constantly working to develop new varieties of garden crops that are resistant to diseases and pests. But there are still very few of them, so summer residents are forced to vigilantly monitor their plantings, periodically spraying them with preparations for treating the garden in the fall against pests and diseases - their natural enemies.

After harvesting, every gardener must decide for himself how to treat the garden against diseases and pests in the fall and in what steps to do it. You should prepare equipment and preparations for chemical plant protection work in advance.

If you start treatment on a cloudy day, there is a risk that it will rain and wash away the preparations. A huge amount of work will be wasted. In case of wind there is also a possibility that large number pesticides will go to the wrong places. This is dangerous for humans. A gust of wind can splash the solution on your face, burning your eyes and skin.

Aphids are a pest of garden crops

Spraying is carried out to combat:

  1. Insects:
  • caterpillars;
  • larvae;
  • butterflies;
  • -bugs.
  1. Diseases:
  • coccomycosis;
  • moniliosis;
  • bitter rot;
  • leaf curl and others.

Cherry moniliosis

A huge variety of misfortunes fruit crops does not allow the gardener to let his pets out of his attention for a single day. But he has a whole arsenal of possibilities for war with a voracious army of pests.

Products for treating garden plants

The main thing is to choose the right way to treat the garden against pests in the fall with the greatest effect. There are a lot of pests and diseases in garden plants, which is why they are treated with several preparations.

Urea drug (urea)

Urea is also a nitrogen fertilizer. Take 500 g of urea and dilute it in 10 liters of water. White crystals dissolve quickly and are odorless. This solution is used to treat trunks, branches, and tree trunk circles. Treatment is carried out as close to frost as possible, since nitrogen gives impetus to vegetation and the growth of green parts of plants. But before winter this is of no use.

Bordeaux mixture is the most commonly used drug in the fight against fungal and mold formations. 200 g of copper sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water, then poured into a solution of slaked lime, which is prepared by shaking 200 g of lime in a ten-liter bucket of water. After carefully stirring, pour the product into the sprayer and get to work.

Spraying with Bordeaux mixture

Autumn treatment of the garden against diseases and pests with copper sulfate against spotting, powdery mildew, scab, and moniliosis is very effective. Traditionally, it is used to treat plantings of pears, apple trees, and plums. A solution of copper sulfate is prepared as follows: take 100 g of granules, dilute them in 10 liters of water and spray the trunks and branches with this fungicide.

Iron sulfate is a multifunctional preparation used on peach, apricot, cherry, sweet cherry and apple trees. With its help, they get rid of cytosporosis, scab, and black cancer.

Meticulous treatment of the garden in the fall with iron sulfate performs two functions at once - treatment and nutrition of plants; it is a valuable source of iron that stimulates metabolic processes in cells. The solution is prepared according to the following scheme: 1 kg of powder is dissolved in 15 liters of water.

Iron sulfate

Fungicides - colloidal sulfur, polychome, chorus are used against coccomycosis, leaf curl, moniliosis, mildew on grapes. They have proven themselves well in the fight against rodents and sucking pests.

The wide range of pesticides includes other products for treating gardens against pests and diseases in the fall, which are used with special precautions.

Whitewashing trees in the garden

Video: Autumn whitewashing of trees in the garden

One of the simple but important ways to combat diseases and pests in the fall is whitewashing, which is scheduled for the end of September. Using a simple method, pathogens such as fungal spores and bacteria are destroyed. They also burn insect eggs already laid in cracks in the bark.

So, whitewashing boles with your own hands includes:

  • cleaning trunks, branches from old bark, dry branches;
  • covering wounds and damage with garden varnish;
  • whitewash

Whitewashing of garden plantings

Having laid a film or fabric under the tree to prevent the larvae from getting on the soil, you should begin processing the trunks and lower branches. On old trees, dead tissue, lichens, and moss are scraped off with a special scraper. On young people, it is better to perform this procedure with your hands so as not to damage the delicate bark.

Important! If tree bark is not treated in the fall, it becomes a breeding ground for diseases, which will significantly delay the beginning of the growing season in the spring.

Removing old bark

All wounds and cracks should be disinfected by covering with garden varnish. Then whitewash the trees to a height of one and a half meters with a large brush.

This way they get rid of bud moths, rust, shoot gall midges, spider mite, currant cushion, powdery mildew, anthracnose and many other pests and diseases. In order to complete all the work in time, it is necessary to comply with the deadlines for the autumn treatment of the garden from diseases and pests, using all agrotechnical and agrochemical methods.

Contrary to advice about painting trees with building mixtures, oil paint, adding clay, alabaster, you definitely can’t do this. The bark is not only an organ that protects the internal structure of the trunk, but also a respiratory organ through which active gas exchange occurs.

Young trees especially suffer from improper whitewashing. It is not recommended to bleach them at all. It is better to tie the trunks with special materials for the winter.

Tree tying technique

Before the onset of persistent frosts, the trunks of young trees should be protected from hares. This is very important stage treating the garden in late autumn from pests and rodents, since young plants may even die from damage by mice and hares.

Old trees are protected by a thick layer of dead bark, so there is no need to tie them down. And young plants are wrapped in spruce or pine branches, needles down, secured with roofing felt, roofing felt, oiled paper, cardboard to a height of half a meter in two layers, so that there are no cracks. The lower edge of the harness is buried in the ground so that rodents do not penetrate from below. Then they tie it in two or three places with twine or wire, securing the structure.

Tying a young tree with spruce branches

Another interesting way rodent control - wrapping the trunk with old stockings and tights. It is not clear why pests do not like elastic, but the effectiveness of this method has been proven many times.

In winter, snow is trampled down around the trunks to prevent rodents from passing under the loose snow cover.

Folk methods for protecting garden plantings

In accordance with all biological laws, insects that pollinate flowers are attracted to strong, resilient plants. But pests are attracted to the weakened, sick, and oppressed. Therefore, the conclusion is extremely simple - you need to create comfortable conditions for plants in the garden, so that they grow strong and steadfastly resist the army of pests and diseases.

Ways to control pests without chemicals

For this purpose, work is carried out in a timely manner to remove weeds, fertilize (root and foliar), basic fertilization, and regular watering. All these agricultural techniques contribute to active growth and increased protective abilities.

Among folk remedies treating the garden against pests and diseases in September, the most popular is manual control of small and large caterpillars, larvae, pupae, and sedentary adults. A good result can be achieved:

  • by treating the bushes with a vacuum cleaner, in which the dense filter is replaced with a mesh;
  • coating a sheet of plywood with an adhesive substance, dragging it over the bushes, pressing it against the plants. Remove and destroy adhered pests;
  • light traps - for nocturnal pests. Place a weak insecticide solution or fermented molasses or jam under a light source. Having hit the lamp, the insect falls into the liquid, where it dies.

You can remove a spider moth nest manually

You can and should use decoctions and infusions of plants that repel insects or fight microorganisms that cause diseases. This technique eliminates the need to use dangerous pesticides that are toxic to humans. But extracts from some plants can also be poisonous to people, so it is necessary to follow basic safety precautions when handling them. Apply once or twice in the fall.

Use for infusions and decoctions only special dishes, which subsequently cannot be used for preparing food for people. Squeezes and residues from infusions should be buried in the ground.

Decoctions and infusions without adding chemicals

Garlic infusion is used against aphids, spider mites, and copperheads. 180–200 g of fresh garlic, ground in a mortar or meat grinder, kept for 24 hours in a bucket of water (10 l).

In case of damage by aphids or spider mites, treatment with infusion of dandelion, potato and tomato tops shows good results:

  1. 200–300 g of dandelion roots or 400 g of green leaves are crushed.
  2. Pour into a bucket with 10 liters of water and leave for two to three hours at a temperature of about 30 degrees.
  3. After filtering, add a teaspoon of mustard, diluted soap, and pepper.

Aphids are afraid of garlic

When cultivating the garden in the fall, an infusion of tomato or potato tops works intensively against aphids and spider mites:

  1. 600 g of stepsons or leaves are crushed using any in a convenient way, better in a meat grinder.
  2. The mixture is poured with 10 liters of almost hot water (about 31 degrees), left for three hours, and filtered.
  3. Then add 1 teaspoon of soap, 1 teaspoon of ammonium nitrate, 1 tablespoon of pepper. Plantings are sprayed with this solution twice during the autumn season.

To combat leaf-sucking insects, an infusion of ordinary onions is suitable:

  1. Grind the onion with a meat grinder, pour the mass into a bucket of water (10 liters).
  2. Add a tablespoon soda ash.
  3. The plants are carefully and methodically treated with this mixture, making sure that all parts are covered with the solution.

A decoction of onion peels is prepared for spraying

An infusion of onion peels is successfully used against aphids, leaf-eating caterpillars, and spider mites. 200 g of husks are infused with 10 liters of water for three to four days, after which the solution is filtered, then used to treat the garden in the fall once or twice.

An infusion of hot pepper is successfully used against copperheads, small leaf-sucking pests, aphids, and caterpillars:

  1. 100 g of freshly picked, crushed pepper pods are boiled for about an hour over low heat.
  2. After this, it is infused for two days in a closed dark glass container.
  3. For processing, 50 g of infusion is poured, diluted to 10 liters with water and used for spraying trees and shrubs in the fall.

To work on garden plot has not turned into a daily torment, it is necessary to develop a system and frequency of treatments, and choose medications. If you do everything systematically, then soon the garden will turn into paradise, bearing wonderful fruits.

In the fall, in addition to harvesting, summer residents have another important task - preparing the garden for winter. To next year To enjoy the fruits again, it is important to properly treat the plants and the soil under them from diseases and pests.

Autumn processing gardening includes spraying the crowns of bushes and trees with insecticides (Aktara, Inta-Vir) and fungicides, digging the soil, applying fertilizers and protecting plants from rodents. With the onset of cold weather, heat-loving crops are additionally covered with spunbond and mulched with sawdust, peat, dry leaves and other materials.

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Pest Control Products

In early autumn, the trapping belts are removed from the trees and burned, along with the codling moth caterpillars, weevils and other garden pests that have climbed there. With the onset of cold weather, insects burrow into the soil of tree trunks and under the bark of plants to hibernate, so the first step is to clear the trunks of old bark, moss and lichens, cover the wounds with garden varnish and whiten the trees with a special solution with the addition of copper sulfate.

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Shortly before the onset of frost, fruit tree trunks need to be protected from rodents. To do this, the trunk is tied with spruce branches, metal mesh, cut plastic bottle or roofing felt.

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How to spray bushes and trees in autumn

Among gardeners, the most popular treatment of plants after harvest is 1% Bordeaux mixture. This product helps destroy dangerous fungi– pathogens of scab, powdery mildew, rot and other diseases. Using a special pressure cylinder or spray bottle, thoroughly spray all fruit trees, berry bushes (including strawberries), as well as perennial ornamental crops.

After leaf fall, but no later than the end of October, the crown of bushes and trees and the soil under them are sprayed with a solution of urea (urea). To prepare it, 500-700 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water. This is an excellent prevention of scab and spotting.

The apple orchard can be additionally sprayed with 5% iron sulfate.

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All spraying is carried out in dry and windless weather and safety precautions are not forgotten. When processing the garden, a person should wear a respiratory mask, rubber gloves, a protective gown and goggles to protect the eyes from contact with chemicals.

Digging the soil in autumn

When preparing the soil for winter, the first thing you need to do is remove all the leaves from the area. They can live garden pests and fungal spores (in particular, the causative agents of clasterosporiasis and coccomycosis), therefore it is not recommended to leave any vegetation on the surface of the earth. After the end of leaf fall and thorough cleaning, they begin the autumn digging of the soil.

The earth is dug up using a sharp shovel to a depth of 15-20 cm in row spacing and 10-15 cm along the projection of the crown of bushes and trees. It is enough to loosen the soil that is not too dense with a rake or a Fokin flat cutter.

During this procedure, it is necessary to remove perennial weeds and pest larvae that appear on the surface of the soil. Then it is recommended to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

For each adult apple and pear tree, add 300 g of superphosphate and 200 g of potassium sulfate. Fertilizers are embedded together with organic matter or poured into trunk circle and water it with water. For plums and cherries, the preparations need to be diluted in a proportion of 3 tbsp. superphosphate per 10 liters of water and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. For each mature plant pour out 4-5 buckets of the resulting solution. Thanks to these fertilizers, the winter hardiness of plants will increase.

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Digging the soil should be carried out in dry weather, since damp soil will only become compacted instead of becoming loose. And do not stick the shovel in at an angle; it must be placed strictly vertically to the surface of the earth.

Now you know how to properly spray plants and control pests in the garden. But autumn processing may not be enough. Therefore, preventive measures are repeated in spring and summer.

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Many inexperienced gardeners do not know how to treat fruit trees and shrubs in the fall, but there are a number of new preparations or you can resort to well-proven old remedies.

The main treatment of trees against pests is carried out by spraying. Before taking any measures, the gardener should take care of his safety, namely, protect open areas skin and eyes.

Treating fruit trees with copper sulfate

Copper sulfate copes well with the following diseases on trees and shrubs: scab, leaf spot, black cancer, anthracnose garden trees moniliosis, drying out. To obtain a solution of copper sulfate, it is diluted in a ratio of 100 g per ten liter bucket of water. Plantings should be processed in dry weather on a warm day.

Treatment of shrubs with urea in autumn

Urea good effective remedy in the fight against various diseases, in particular monilial burn, purple spot and scab. Urea is diluted in a proportion of 500 g per ten liters of water. If you don’t have time to collect the leaves, you can treat them with the same solution.

Spraying garden plants with urea will be more effective if 50 g of copper sulfate is added to the working solution. This composition works well not only in the fight against infections, but also against harmful insects. Treatment is carried out with a solution of urea and copper sulfate at the beginning of leaf fall. The mixture consumption is 2.5 liters per 10 square meters. m.

Soda + soap

Treating shrubs in the fall against pests and diseases can be done using the following solution: 10 liters of water + 350 g of soda ash + 35 g of soap. Stir all components until dissolved, after which you can spray trees against most diseases and harmful insects.

At the very beginning, before processing, the most affected or dried branches on the bushes are cut off. The cut areas are cleaned of bark residues, sawdust and sprayed with copper sulfate to prevent bacterial infections from developing, then treated with garden varnish.

Drugs in processing

Treatment of fruit trees in the fall against pests and diseases can also be done using ready-made preparations. It is better to spray after 15/10, choosing a dry, windless day.

  • "Horus" is used to protect trees and bushes.
  • "Skor" is suitable for stone fruit and pome trees. It is also used against scab, clusterosporiasis, leaf curl, and coccomycosis.
  • "Tinovit Jet" helps protect gooseberries, currants, apple trees, and cherry plums from American powdery mildew.
  • “HOM” preparation can be used to treat all plantings on the site. Home gives good results in the fight against moniliosis, scab, coccomycosis, curliness, clusterosporiasis.
  • "Aktara" uses the drug to eliminate insect pests, including weevils, scale insects, raspberry beetles, and mites.
  • "Karbofos" destroys not only pests, but also their larvae. It is used against codling moths, psyllids, sawflies, and spider mites. To neutralize all garden plants, use 90 g of the drug, and for raspberry, gooseberry, and currant bushes, 75 g.

Garden work on processing plantings is carried out after October 20 or from November 1-10. Depending on the region, summer residents should focus on the active shedding of leaves, which is a guide to starting work in the garden.

Have you ever paid attention to urban greenery? All of them do not look very aesthetically pleasing: all kinds of bugs are frolicking on the trunks, the branches and foliage look unhealthy. It's all about improper care and failure to perform such an important procedure as tree treatment in autumn. Why this event is being held, as well as what means to use, we will discuss in this article.

If you are not looking for information on this issue, but for professional gardeners who are ready to work on your site for you, you have come to the right place. We offer the following services: treatment of bushes and trees in the fall, preparing the garden for winter, autumn feeding. We will provide quality care for every plant! Call! :)

Autumn work

Treatment of trees in the garden in autumn has the following functions:

  • Extermination of insect pests;
  • Fight against pathogenic microorganisms;
  • Defense against winter pests (hares, mice) and protection from frost.

These problems are solved using several procedures:

  • spraying;
  • whitewash;
  • installation of protective equipment.

Treatment of trees and shrubs in autumn for disease prevention- spraying plants with fungicides. If this activity is not carried out, microorganisms (pathogens) can spread throughout all plantings. Warm, humid weather allows bacteria to multiply quickly. If you do not spray your garden in time, in the spring it will suffer from various diseases and fungi.

A mandatory procedure in garden care is treating trees against pests in the fall. Just at this time, insects are about to go into hibernation. They make their winter roosts in the bark of plants, on branches, and in tree trunks. To destroy most types of insects, it is enough to carry out sanitary pruning and digging of tree trunk circles. To destroy insects hiding in the pores of the old bark, the trunks are whitewashed.

Treatment of tree trunks in autumn includes the following procedures:

  • cleaning the trunks from old bark using a scraper or a metal brush;
  • treatment of injuries (plaster with garden pitch);
  • whitewashing with a special whitening compound.

This treatment will destroy the “nests” and burn the eggs and pupae of insects. For effectiveness, insecticides are added to the whitewash composition.

Treatment of trees in autumn for winter includes installation of insulation on bollards - This is the weakest point of the plant; if the tree gets frostbite on the trunk, the chances of its survival will be close to zero. To protect the plant, the trunk is wrapped with roofing felt or roofing felt (height - about 1 m); in particularly frosty areas, it is recommended to lay a layer of burlap or straw between the roofing felt and the bark.

Provide safety from rodents very simple:

  • place poisonous baits in the garden (will save you from mice);
  • wrap the trunk over the “fur coat” with barbed wire (protection from hares).

Tree processing in autumn video

To treat garden plots in the fall, substances such as copper or iron sulfate, as well as urea, are used. Spraying solves several problems:

  • Destroys pests;
  • Prevents fungal diseases;
  • Treats wounds, disinfects them after pruning;
  • Acts as a fertilizer.

During operation, the instructions instruct you to take protective measures– at least wear a respirator and gloves. When treating a large area, it is convenient to use a special garden sprayer.

Treatment with iron sulfate

If the trees are not young and are affected by moss and lichen, iron sulfate is suitable for treatment. The solution is prepared with a concentration of iron sulfate of at least 5% and not more than 8%.

The mixture should not be kept in metal container. Suitable for its preparation glassware or a thick plastic bucket. For treatment - disinfection of cuts and hollows, take 100 g of iron sulfate per 1 liter of water.

Treating the garden with iron sulfate in the fall will help in the fight against gray rot, mosses and lichens on old trees. In a concentration of 30 g of the drug per 1 liter of water, it is used to spray currant bushes, gooseberries and raspberries.

Iron sulfate is used to prevent and treat diseases of roses, in particular it helps to defeat black spot.

Autumn spraying of apple trees with iron sulfate destroys insect pests that have hid under the bark for the winter. The branches, trunk and trunk circle are treated with a 5% solution. Spring treatment iron sulfate kills at least 50% of apple honeydew eggs laid for the winter.

In addition to the fact that iron sulfate protects the garden from pests, it is a source of iron necessary for normal plant growth and fruit development. In contrast, copper sulfate is used as a preventive and therapeutic agent (fungicide).

What is copper sulfate used for?

Autumn spraying with copper sulfate has preventive purposes. By the time the buds begin to bloom, the trees will already be protected from disease.

A one percent solution of this drug is used to treat the roots of seedlings before planting. They are lowered for literally 3 minutes, after which they are thoroughly rinsed in running water.

A solution of copper sulfate will help prevent the occurrence of fruit rot, powdery mildew and scab.

For best result Lime is added to it in the following ratio: for 200 g of quicklime take 100 g of copper sulfate. The resulting mixture is called Bordeaux mixture.


Spraying with copper sulfate is best done in the fall, since in the spring a highly concentrated solution will harm young foliage. But this can be done no earlier than November, since chemical burns are possible when processing leaves.

Spraying with urea

The composition with urea is used at a concentration of 5%. This treatment will help rid and protect the garden from scab. The components of urea have a beneficial effect on vegetation processes, as plants are saturated with nitrogen.


Spraying with urea is carried out a month before the first frost in order to protect the garden from negative weather conditions. It is carried out in calm weather. Another name for urea is urea.

Autumn processing: timing and procedure

In autumn it is important to remove fallen leaves. If this is not done, insect pests and rodents will overwinter in it and will continue to destroy the garden in the spring.

Main tasks autumn work in the garden:

  • Spraying the garden against pests and their larvae;
  • Rodent protection;
  • Sheltering trees and bushes from frost.

Sequence of work to prepare the garden for winter:

  1. Fruit collection. Healthy fallen fruits are processed or composted, and the carrion is fed to livestock. Disease-affected parts of the plant are burned.
  2. Fallen leaves are collected. Garlic and strawberries are covered with healthy leaves. The remaining mass is placed in a compost heap.
  3. The old bark is peeled off. Hollows and wounds are cleaned, disinfected and treated with garden varnish.

Before these procedures, unnecessary fabric is spread under the crown so that pests living in the crown do not fall to the ground. At autumn pruning shoots growing inwards, spiny shoots, diseased, damaged and dried branches are removed.

In regions with frosty winters, pruning is carried out in the spring. Where at this time of year the temperature remains predominantly above zero, sanitary pruning is carried out - crooked, dry and disease-damaged branches are destroyed. All waste is burned.

Whitewashing trunks

The procedure for applying a protective solution is carried out after all the foliage has fallen, but before the first frost. In the central regions, this time falls at the end of September - the first ten days of October. Treatment is not carried out in rainy weather.


Whitewash will create on the trunk protective film which will serve as a barrier against pests. Regular lime is ineffective.

It is better to use special paint intended for garden trees. She lasts longer than mortar and contains an antiseptic.

As soon as the temperature drops to +5°C, you can start painting the trunks. This is done to protect them from freezing in winter, and from sunburn in spring. Garden paint cannot be applied at temperatures below +2°C.

If we are talking about young seedlings, it is not recommended to whiten them with lime. In extreme cases, the solution is made less concentrated, but the protective properties are reduced. Therefore, it is safer to use garden paint for seedlings.


To prepare a solution of lime, you will need the following components:

  • Slaked garden lime – 2 kg;
  • Water – 10 l;
  • Copper sulfate – 250 g;
  • Clay – 1 kg.

This is not a spray, so the mixture should not run off like water. Clay gives it thickness. If the solution turns out to be liquid, this can be corrected by adding clay. The consistency of the mass should resemble kefir or liquid sour cream.

Rodent harness

When everything gardening work carried out, spraying of fruit trees and berry bushes has been completed, the temperature has dropped below zero, the trunk is tied. They use spruce branches and raspberry branches, but if there are none, then metal mesh or roofing felt. The strapping will protect the bark from sunlight, which in the spring can leave burns on the trunk.


If rodents are already in the garden, then traps, traps and poisoned baits are set. If there is a lot of snow, it is compacted around the trunk. This technique allows you to maintain thermal balance. The harness becomes unnecessary closer to April. To protect the bark from burns, the cover is removed on a cloudy day.