Thuja - unpretentious plant that needs minimal maintenance. But under adverse conditions, and she can get sick. Let's talk about common diseases and pests of thuja.

Drying of shoots caused by fungi.

The color of the scales of the shoots becomes brown, the thuja loses its decorative effect. One of the causes of the disease is fungal infection. For an accurate diagnosis, the help of a specialist may be required. If the yellowing of the shoots is caused by a fungal infection, then the treatment consists in treating the plants with fungicides. If the shoots turned brown in early spring, then the cause could be a sunburn from the bright spring sun. To prevent sunburn, thujas are shielded from the sun. As a rule, thuja burns occur if by spring the level of snowfall exceeds the climatic norm.

Another reason for the drying and yellowing of thuja shoots is the defeat of the fungal infection (fusarium) of the roots. Fusarium treatment consists in treating the crown and watering the plant under the root with systemic fungicides.

Tui pests.

Tui, unlike most plants traditionally used in landscape design, pests are rarely affected. One of these pests is the thuja false shield. This small insect got its name because of its appearance - the body of the insect looks like a shield, firmly attached to the shoot of the thuja. Plants affected by thuja false shield become pale, light green or yellow spots are clearly visible on the shoots. Broad-spectrum insecticides are used to combat false shields.

Another type of pest that infects thuja is thuja aphid. This is a sucking insect that can cause quite a lot of damage to the decorativeness of the thuja. With the defeat of thuja aphids, the shoots of the plant turn yellow, then dry out and fall off. Treatment also comes down to insecticide treatment.

Drying of shoots caused by lack of nutrients

It is expressed in the drying and falling off of the shoots. Treatment is reduced to plant nutrition mineral fertilizers high in copper or iron. However, it is impossible to feed plants affected by fungi. Excessive feeding can provoke the growth of a weakened plant and lead to its death.

Treatment

If you doubt the diagnosis, invite a dendrologist to the site. He will help in accurately diagnosing the causes of thuja drying up, will consult on proper care for thujas and other garden plants, and, if necessary, will process the garden by professional means safe for site owners, pets and the ecosystem. If you want to take care of yourself and you only need the help of a specialist in making the correct diagnosis, then our dendrologist will consult in detail on the regularity of treatments with certain means, on plant nutrition, and give written recommendations for you or your gardener.

Thuja mining moth

T ya compared to others conifers more disease resistant. Nevertheless, it is subject to various diseases, mainly of fungal origin. Some of them at high level injury is a serious danger. The causative agents of the most common thuja diseases have a wide organotropic specialization, that is, they affect trunks, branches, leaves, causing their death (necrosis). In addition, on all types of thuja it is known 7 types of insect pests. They damage scaly needles on shoots, wood of trunks and branches, and immature (green) cones.

Tui pests

Most thuja pests are oligophages and can develop on plant species from the cypress family: junipers, thujas and cypresses. They are found and harm mainly in the southern regions of the European part of Russia, in the Crimea and the Caucasus.

A few thuja pests belong to three ecological groups:

• sucking
• miners,
• xylophages.

• Sucking pests

Thuja sucking pests suck juices from needles, shoots and immature cones. These include two types of coccids and one type of aphid.

Thuja false shield

The most harmful for thuja are juniper scale ( Carulaspis juniperus) And thuja false shield ( Parthenolecanium fletcheri) . In the juniper scale insect, the shield of the female is brown, elongated-oval, 1.9–2.0 mm long. This species is found in the southern regions of the European part of Russia, in Transcaucasia and Central Asia. In the thuja false scale, the body of the female is strongly convex, almost spherical, 3–3.5 mm long, yellowish-brown and Brown color. This false scale is found and harms in the parks of the European part of Russia, forests and parks of the Crimea, the Caucasus and Central Asia.

Much less often on thujas can be found thuja aphid ( Cinara juniperina) . This type refers to monoecious non-migratory aphids. The integument of the body of the pest is grayish-brown, with a slight wax coating. Aphids feed on small colonies on the underside of 2–3 year old shoots. The needles on shoots damaged by aphids gradually turn yellow and eventually fall off. Thuja aphid is found everywhere.

• Insects—miners

Miners are called insects, the larvae of which feed on the tissue of leaves or needles, making passages in the thickness of leaf blades or a growing shoot.

Scaly thuja leaves gnaw inside tiny caterpillars thuja mining moth ( Argyresthiathuiella) . The moves of the caterpillars are clearly visible when looking through the needles into the light. Damaged needles turn brown (turn yellow), and the tops of its shoots die off. After the exit of the caterpillar, well-marked small holes remain in the yellowed needles. The harm is minor. There is a thuja mining moth everywhere.

Damage from thuja mining moth

• stem pests

Stem pests, or xylophagous insects, feed on bark, bast, and wood of branches and trunks. Most of them settle on strongly weakened and drying out plants. Three types of bark beetles are known on thujas: thuja beetle ( Phloeosinus thujae) , juniper beetle ( Phloeosinusaubei) , which can be found only in the forests and parks of the Crimea and the Caucasus.

Thuy beetle

Tui diseases

• Cabatine necrosis(pathogen - fungus Kabatinajuniperi)

Young shoots and leaves are affected, which turn yellow or acquire a reddish-brown color. On the rounded dying areas of the bark and leaves, sporulation of the pathogen is formed, which has the form of crowded black-brown rounded tubercles with a diameter of up to 0.3 mm, protruding from ruptures of integumentary tissues.

• Pestalocyopsis necrosis(pathogen - fungus Pestalotiopsisfunerea)

Pestalocyopsis necrosis

Young shoots and leaves are affected, acquiring a light brown or red-brown color. Leaf damage begins at the top of the shoots, spreading down. On dying and dead leaves and bark, sporulation of the fungus is formed in the form of a few scattered black rounded tubercles up to 0.2 mm in diameter, protruding from cracks in the integumentary tissues. Mature spores come to the surface of the affected leaves and shoots in the form of dark brown, almost black drops and thin strands, which are a characteristic sign of the disease.

• Phomopsis necrosis(pathogen - fungus Phomopsisjuniperovora)

Affected shoots and leaves turn brown. On the dead bark and in the axils of the leaves, sporulation of the pathogen is formed in the form of black rounded tubercles. Mature spores come to the surface of the affected organs in the form of light drops or strands.

• Cytospore necrosis, or osteoporosis (causative agents are fungi of the genusCytospora)

Mainly trunks and branches are affected, less often leaves that turn brown. The disease is detected by the sporulation of pathogens, which look like numerous, very small conical tubercles with dark tops. Mature spores come to the surface in the form of clearly visible golden yellow, orange or reddish drops, thin flagella and spirals. (More on the disease).

• Diplodian necrosis, or diplodia(pathogen - fungus Diplodiathujae)

The bark of trunks, branches and leaves is affected. The color of the bark almost does not change, and the leaves become brown or red-brown. On dead areas, sporulation of the pathogen is formed, which has the appearance of numerous scattered black rounded tubercles with a diameter of up to 0.5 mm.

• Brown Shutte (causative agent - mushroom Herpotrichiajuniperi)

The causative agent develops in winter under the snow, so the leaves of only that part of the crown that is in the snow cover zone in winter are affected. After the snow melts, the infected leaves are covered with a dense dark brown mycelium (mycelium), which, as it were, sticks together the affected shoots. On the mycelium, the fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed in the form of black spherical small tubercles, poorly distinguishable on the brown mycelium. Over time, the mycelium is destroyed, and dirty brown scraps remain on the affected leaves.

Mature thuja trees can become infected with wood-destroying fungi, of which the most dangerous are: autumn honey agaric ( Armillariamellea), root sponge ( Heterobasidionannosum), tinder fungus flat ( Ganodermalipsiense), tinder fungus Schweinitz ( Phaeolusschweinitzii) .

All these diseases occur, as a rule, against the background of a preliminary weakening of the thuja, caused by various unfavorable factors (weather conditions, an imbalance of nutrients in the soil, damage by pests, etc.).

Fighting methods

To protect the thuja from diseases, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures aimed at preventing and limiting their spread:

• use for planting plants that do not have signs of disease damage and damage on trunks and branches (mechanical wounds, insect damage, etc.);
• systematic monitoring of the condition of plants and the appearance of diseases during the growing season;
• creation optimal conditions for the growth and development of thuja, increasing its resistance to diseases
• timely pruning and destruction of individual shrunken branches, which can be sources of infection;
• with a high level of infestation with necrotic diseases, preventive spraying during the growing season with copper-containing fungicides with strict adherence to application regulations.

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Thuja is a beautiful ornamental plant. It gained its popularity due to the fact that it can be cut, creating beautiful figures from foliage. However, any thuja disease can instantly destroy everything that the gardener has made of it. Though given tree small size quite unpretentious to the owner's care, as well as to planting, there are many pests that are always in a hurry to feast beautiful plant. Here we will consider the most popular thuja diseases, as well as methods of dealing with them and prevention.

So, the most common disease, not only in the tree in question, but also in many others, is brown shoots. In early spring, when the young sprouts of the tree are just beginning to appear, they acquire a brownish tint. This means that your thuja has earned itself. Such shoots should be removed immediately so that the disease does not spread. For prevention, ordinary limestone is used, it is dug up to the root system. In addition, the drug "Fundazol", diluted at a concentration of 0.2 percent, helps a lot. They should spray the tree every two weeks until October. However, if it was possible to remove the shoots and get rid of the disease, then this operation is not at all necessary.

The next common thuja disease is called false shield. It lies in the fact that small yellow ulcers form on the trunk of the plant, which will grow if certain treatment is not started. Karbofos, Aktellik or Rogor help here. It should be noted that these same drugs are used when aphids attack your thuja. This small insects gray or brown. When their colony grows, they are covered with a silvery wax-like dust. As a result of the aphid attack, the foliage of the plant turns yellow and subsequently falls off.

Another thuja disease manifests itself in the fact that the top of the tree begins to turn yellow, the foliage falls off, and the plant gradually dies. At the same time, you do not observe any ulcers on the trunk or blanching of the shoots. In addition, aphids did not attack your thuja. Sometimes this happens, and this is the result of poor care. The fact is that it performs several functions. One of them is to deliver various nutrients from underground into the trunk and crown of the plant. If the thuja dies, this function is impaired. This can happen for two reasons. In the first case, thuja disease manifests itself due to the fact that its root system began to rot. This happens when they rise high and supply a certain amount of moisture. The owner, of course, does not even suspect this and additionally waters the plant. The root system rots due to excess moisture. In the second case, the disease is due to fungal disease, which was described at the beginning of the article. And the methods of dealing with it are appropriate.

Thuja Danica is more often exposed to various diseases, since it is she who is most popular among the other species of this plant. Although it is a hardy tree, fungi and pests can kill it. Therefore, do not delay treatment if the disease has already overtaken. And ideally - it is better to carry out prevention.

Thuja is popular in landscape design due to its beautiful evergreen needles. Therefore, any disease immediately affects its decorative effect, sometimes causing irreparable harm. Let's try to figure out what factors affect the yellowing of the thuja and what to do to avoid this trouble.

Thuja is characterized by unpretentiousness and resistance to diseases, as well as to pest attacks. However, like any other tree, this resistance is not absolute - the plant may periodically turn yellow, shed its needles, and its branches may dry out. To find out how to help thuya in such a situation, you first need to establish the cause of such phenomena. There may be several of them:

Natural. Often the needles live from three to six years, and after this period they first lighten, then turn yellow and, in the end, die. This process is accompanied by staining yellow individual branches in the middle of the crown around the trunk. Subsequently, such parts of the tree simply fall off. A similar phenomenon is called branch fall and is observed, most often, in autumn.

Seasonal. In winter, some types of conifer can turn golden-bronze, brown, brown. Thus, the tree reacts to a cold snap and adapts to frost. With the advent of spring, the needles should return to their usual color. However, if after the winter the thuja turned yellow and did not turn green again, it’s time to think about what to do, because in this case you are dealing with some serious problem that needs to be addressed and as soon as possible.

Did you know? Seasonal color changes are characteristic of the western and folded arborvitae. The varieties of European arborvitae "Brabant", "Columna" and "Holmstrup" turn slightly brown. In winter and summer, the variety "Smaragd" remains monochromatic, for the needles of which no frosts are terrible.

Like all conifers, thuja is prone to spring sunburn. At this time (preferably from February), it must be covered with kraft paper, agrofibre or other similar devices.

Animals. The reasons for the change in the color of the thuja and the drying of the needles can also be regular bowel movements of cats or dogs on it. From dog urine, the tree is covered with a black coating.

Also, the causes of changes in the appearance of the thuja can be improper care, diseases and pests. We will tell about them in more detail.

Wrong care

Over or under watering

Thuja loves well-moistened soil, but can not stand the stagnation of moisture, however, as well as the close occurrence of groundwater.

The recommended frequency of watering for arborvitae is once a week, during dry periods, twice a week, and in the first month after planting, daily. The volume of water during irrigation, in normal conditions, should be a bucket per tree (with unfavorable factors - two buckets). So that moisture is retained in the soil, but does not stagnate, the earth in trunk circle it is necessary to mulch: in winter - with sawdust, in summer - with peat.

Excessive watering and stagnant moisture for more than two weeks lead to rotting of the roots of the plant and contribute to the development of fungal diseases. With insufficient watering, the thuja turns yellow and dries.

He loves thuja and periodic sprinkling, especially in the summer heat. It is better to do this in the evening, so that drops on the needles do not provoke sunburn.

Mistakes in feeding

Top dressing for thuja is useful, but in moderation. If fertilizers were applied at planting, then the next time the tree will need to be fed in two years. In spring, the plant is fertilized with nitrogen compounds, in early summer with potassium. If the tree grows on poor soil, then in summer fertilizers containing phosphorus will also be needed. However, it is worth remembering that excessive fertilization can cause root burns and yellowing of shoot tips.

Important! In no case should you feed the thuja before winter period. It is fraught with development different kind diseases.

About what substances she lacks, thuja can tell you with her appearance. So, yellowing or strong lightening of the needles often occurs due to a lack of iron. In this case, thuja should be fertilized complex fertilizer, for example "Kemiroy Universal" or "Osmokot". If a young tree suffers from a lack of phosphorus, its needles will turn red-violet, and with a nitrogen deficiency, the arborvitae slow down growth and development, become chlorotic.

Wrong choice of place for thuja

When choosing a place for planting a conifer, one must take into account the fact that the tree grows well on drained soil as part of sod land, peat, sand. Planting it in sandy, clay or peaty soil can adversely affect the development of the plant, causing yellowing and shedding of the needles or drying out of the lower branches.

Did you know? IN wild nature the most beautiful arborvitae grow on moist, fresh, slightly acidic or neutral soils in mixed forests.

For proper fit thuja needs to know one rule - the root neck should be at ground level, not deepened into it. It is not worth deepening the tree strongly, this can lead to dropping of the needles and rotting of the bark in the lower part of the trunk. In the future, it is necessary to ensure that the root neck is not completely exposed, otherwise it may also suffer appearance ephedra.

Harmful for thuja are thickened plantings. In places where the branches of different trees come into contact, the needles may turn yellow and fall off. The recommended minimum distance between seedlings is 1 m.

Thuja is a light-loving plant, so it must be planted on open areas. However, the first time after planting, it is important to shade the seedling from the sun, otherwise the needles may lighten. It is advisable to choose a place for landing where at noon direct lines will not fall on it. Sun rays. Of course, thuja will not grow in full shade and will completely lose its attractiveness. Remember: the condition and appearance of the plant in the future will depend on the correct planting and choice of location.

How to cure thuja from diseases

If you planted a tree, following the recommendations, you are sure that you are taking care of it properly, but you notice that it turns yellow, looks lethargic or sheds its needles, then the cause of such phenomena may be the defeat of the thuja by some disease characteristic of conifers.

Phytophthora is one of the most dangerous diseases of conifers, including thuja. If you run it, then it will be impossible to help the tree. The development of this disease can be recognized by characteristic signs: thuja needles acquire a gray color, the tree fades, Bottom part the trunk becomes soft and covered with bloom. The fungus that causes phytophthora infects the root of the shrub, which becomes brittle, begins to rot and exude bad smell. When such symptoms appear, when it is already clearly visible that the thuja is disappearing, it will be too late to think about what to do. You will have to get rid of the tree, and change the ground under it, since the spores of the pathogen can exist there for a long time.

The main causes of phytophthora are stagnant moisture and lack of drainage in the soil, as well as damage to the bark by larvae of wireworms and bark beetles. For the prevention of the disease, fungicidal sprays are used with "Fundazol", "HOM", "Abiga-Peak".

brown shoots

Yellowing of individual scales in early spring may indicate the development of a fungus on the thuja that causes brown shoots. As it multiplies, the entire shoot turns brown and dies. If such signs are found, infected branches should be removed immediately.

In order to prevent the plant, it is necessary to fertilize, and sprinkle the soil under the trunk with limestone. Also, every 14 days, from July to October, you can spray "Fundazol" (0.2%).

Rust and Shutte Tui

Frequent diseases that affect conifers are rust and schütte, which mainly harm young trees. Ailments are manifested by a change in the color of the needles to a darker, brown, followed by their fall. Black dots form on the needles - foci of sporulation. Diseased branches are cut and destroyed. For the purpose of prevention and treatment, the plant must be sprayed with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, "HOM", "Oxych"). Also for treatment coniferous trees use watering under the root "Fundazol". Schutte is treated with the drug "Topsin-M". Regular mineral supplements are used as protection.

How to deal with thuja pests

Thuja can be damaged by a number of harmful insects. Their vital activity on a tree leads to serious damage to the needles, bark, and also provokes further development fungal diseases. So, thuja is affected by sucking, needle-eating, root-damaging pests.

Yellowing needles may be the result of the presence of aphids. These small gray-brown insects feed on the sap of the tree on the underside of the shoots. If a small amount of them is found, weekly soap washing of the needles can help, but with mass defeat you will have to resort to the use of insecticides allowed for thuja.

Important! When washing with soap, the soil under the thuja must be covered in order to prevent the soap solution from getting on the roots.

spider mite

Already from the name of this pest it is clear that the result of its vital activity will be a web. Entanglement of needles with cobwebs is one of the characteristic symptoms of the fact that thuja is rampant spider mite. Also, the needles are covered yellow spots, brown and crumble.

The spider mite can cause the greatest harm to plants suffering from drying out of the soil on hot days. This pest is very prolific and produces up to six offspring per season, so the fight against it will require serious efforts.

For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to prevent the drying of the soil in summer season, as well as often "sprinkle" the plants to maintain good humidity.

To get rid of the tick, spraying with infusions of dandelions, garlic or a solution of colloidal sulfur is used. With mass infection, acaricides will help.

bark beetle

The presence of holes in the bark of a tree indicates the presence of stem pests. One of them is the bark beetle.

The leaf roller makes cocoons between the needles, connecting them with a web. It can eat needles for a month. Its harmfulness is very high, since it is small insect can lead to the death of the tree.

For prevention and treatment, thuja is sprayed twice with insecticides: in May and in the first half of June. With a strong infection, the treatment is repeated in July.

As preventive measures wrestling use trapping belts. They are made from burlap or straw and put on trunks in early spring. Such devices will not allow insects that wake up in the soil after wintering to get to the needles.

For minor damage, use mechanical way fight-false shields with a brush or a blunt knife, simply peel off the bark. In advanced cases, insecticides are used.

The larvae of the pestry moth leave behind brown needles and dying tops of the shoots. They gnaw small holes in the needles. For laying eggs, the moth flies out in May, but it is rather difficult to notice it, since its size does not exceed 4 mm.

In order to prevent moths from laying eggs on a tree, it is sprayed twice with preparations containing pyrethroids in the second half of June - early July. The tops of the shoots will need to be cut off.

Also, thuja is attacked by a wireworm, which harms the roots of the plant. As a result of its harmful activity, the immunity of the thuja is greatly undermined, it begins to lag behind in growth and development. The wireworm can also be the answer to the question "Why do thuja branches and needles dry?". This pest affects trees growing in low-lying areas with acidic soil and frequent stagnant moisture.

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In order for the garden to attract the attention of the owners and guests, it must have a lot of greenery. Often people choose thuja to decorate the area near their home. This coniferous plant pleases its owners with beauty and grace, as well as resistance to temperature extremes. In addition, they can be used to create any composition.

Also, this evergreen tree is able to purify the air from pollution. In addition, many people use it in medicinal purposes. Therefore, you can not worry by choosing exactly the thuja for your site.

There are several types of this tree. One of the most common is western thuja. All of them are able to survive heat and cold, and even the absence of moisture. Therefore, such a plant is quite unpretentious, which means that everyone can plant it in their summer cottage.

Many gardeners may be interested in the question, what should I feed the thuja in spring so that it grows quickly? And also where to look for fertilizer and how to use it correctly? And what mistakes are better not to make in order for the plant to please the owners long time? All answers to these questions will be discussed in the article.

How to choose spring fertilizer

In order for the thuja to grow and delight its owners, it is important to learn how to properly care for it. IN spring period the plant will need to be fertilized.

In order not to harm the plant, you need to seriously approach the choice of fertilizer. On the market you can find ready-to-use fertilizer.

One of the most popular means is "Zircon". It's been tried a large number of of people. The solution is able to strengthen the roots of the plant, as well as improve the absorption of all important substances. In addition, this substance effectively helps thujas to cope with diseases. And all because it perfectly resists viruses.

Fertilizer for thuja in the spring can be picked up and natural. It will favorably affect the whole tree. For example, this is the well-known compost.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulantswhich will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

Also, it is worth giving preference to mineral or water-soluble products.

Features of thuja fertilizer

The ornamental plant itself is not whimsical and does not require special care. It can grow and delight its owners even without top dressing. The presence of minerals in the soil contributes to this process. But if the soil is not good enough, then it is better to make sure that it receives as many necessary substances and minerals as possible.

Did you know! Top dressing of thuja should occur only in the summer and spring. This process begins in early spring and ends at the end of August. It was at this time that the earth was already warmed up.

At other times of the year, this should not be done, as this can lead to the growth of shoots in the winter.

Tui feeding should be moderate. With the advent of cold weather, it stops. If you use a strong concentration of fertilizer immediately after planting in the spring, you can harm the root system of the tree. Better save it for next year.

The process of feeding after planting should occur in two years.

What is mulching

Mulching is a cover upper layers soil with special substances for the protection and growth of plants. For such a process, you can use sawdust, peat or bark. Their layer should be several centimeters.

Thanks to mulching, you can:

• protect root system plants;
• get rid of soil pollution;
• save the plant during cold and heat;
• keep it free of weeds.

This is a very helpful process. Also often gardeners use it for decoration. But it must be done carefully so as not to harm the plant.

Fertilizing and mulching

It is imperative to use thuja fertilizer for thuja. They will help grow a beautiful and healthy tree that will delight its owners for a long period of time. But to do this, you will need to make an effort. Many people will probably want to know how to fertilize thuja correctly?

How to fertilize under thuja in spring

Thuja should be fed in the spring. The first feeding should occur at this time of the year. It is introduced under the root of the plants. You can choose between dry and wet. It is best to use compost. It must be carefully poured near the tree trunk, and the remainder mixed with the top layer of soil. In this case, care should be taken not to touch the roots of the plant. Humus is added in the same way.

There are also fertilizers that are produced in the form of granules. They should be carefully applied over the entire surface. wet soil. They can also be gently mixed with the soil. It is worth remembering that when using them you can not come close to the trunk of the plant.

Do not forget to dilute water-soluble drugs with water according to the instructions. Before using any product, you need to know exactly how to use it correctly so as not to harm the plant.

Thuja should be watered regularly in the spring. During this period, it requires a large amount of moisture. Therefore, there should be a lot of spring watering. Especially when they are accompanied by fertilizer.

The main mistakes gardeners make

Every gardener can make mistakes. They lead to diseases and death of plants. Therefore, it is always better to learn from others, not your own mistakes.

First, it is worth remembering that you can not feed evergreen winter and autumn. At other times of the year, it is better not to do this.

Watering the plant when planting should be plentiful. And then it should be reduced to once a month. Many gardeners forget about this and pour the plant.

Many people make a big mistake. For better plant growth, they use a huge amount of fertilizer. But at the same time, the roots of the thuja can simply burn out.

Why it happens? The fact is that gardeners think that if a plant grows slowly, it means that it needs to be fed. But this opinion may be wrong. This problem can develop due to many reasons. For example, lack of sunlight.

You should also pay attention to the fact that many garden experts plant arborvitae too close to each other. In this case, it will be difficult to fertilize or mulch the plants. It is better to have a distance of half a meter between the trees.

Top dressing thuja in spring

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